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This month's Feature
Lebanese Cooking

Mid East CookingLebanese cuisinesimply lebanese
Caribbean competition
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Updated 1st July 2009
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
Savoir Fare London
Historic Colorado
Gentleman’s Relish
No-Oil Cooking
Alan Coxon is Well Preserved
10 Minutes to Table
In the Mood for Entertaining
Honeybuns Cookies
Great Party Fondues
Spices – A Global History
The Asian Grill
The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook
La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Cook in Boots
Family Meals for a Fiver
Dal and Kadhi
Noodles Every Day
Great Party Dips
World Vegetarian Classics
Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step
The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Home Baked
Scent of the Monsoon Winds
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Pie – A Global History
Spanish Cooking
Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
The Mezze Cookbook
Fast
The World of Spice
Italian Ice Cream
Barbecue Road Trip
Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook
The Big Book of World Tapas
The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth
Cucina Napoletana
Grown in Britain Cookbook
Gale Gand’s Brunch
Thailand- A World of Flavours
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
660 Curries-Gateway to Indian Cooking
Modern Spice


Some favourite people
Alan Coxon
Anissa Helou
Antony Worrall Thompson
Bill Buckley
Celia Brooks Brown
Chef Paul Bocuse
David Rosengarten
Glynn Christian
Jancis Robinson
Jekka McVicar
Jeni Barnett's blog
Lotte Duncan
Manju Malhi
Monisha Bharadwaj

Some favourite publishers
Alison Hodge Publishers
Anova Books
Apple Press
Appletree Press
Black and White Publishing
Book Guild Publishing
David and Charles Publishers
Dorling Kindersley
Duncan Baird Publishers
Footprint Books
Foulsham Publishing
Grub Street
Kyle Cathie Publishers
Lonely Planet
Reaktion Books
Rough Guides

Some favourite places
Baltic restaurant
Casson's English Herbs
Food Network Canada 
French cuisine TV
Passione Restaurant
Paul Young Chocolates

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New Reviews and Articles
  • London Based Caribbean Savouries makes an ethical difference in Jamaica

    As many companies spend most of their time focusing on keeping profits to themselves during theCaribbean Savouries economic downtown; one company is making a difference and reaping the rewards. In May 2009; Caribbean Savouries launched its new range of flavours with the help of the Jamaican High Commissioner, Hon. Burchell Whiteman OJ. Two new flavours of authentic Jamaican Patties build upon the success of their existing range.

    As part of its ongoing vision to make a difference, Caribbean Savouries Ltd has been contributing to a number of grassroots projects and charitable programmes. It recently donated a medical bus to the Jamaican government which provides medical and dental care throughout the island. Scholarships have been established by the company at the UWI for the island students who have proven that they can go to the next level. A building has also been provided for women with HIV and other illnesses which provides accommodation them and medical care, this is run by Fr. Richard Holung. Caribbean Savouries are also proud to be sponsors of the Noel Holmes Memorial Hospital and West Haven Children Home for vulnerable children across Jamaica. It is based in Hanover and provides much needed medical equipment to the hospital and home. The Jamaican High Commissioner His Excellency Hon. Burchell Whiteman is also the patron of this Charity.

    All of the spices used by the company are imported from Jamaica and contribute towards the Jamaican economy by providing jobs and foreign exchange. By advocating these charitable projects and giving back to the Jamaican economy Caribbean Savouries is an example of how any British business can make a difference anywhere whilst still enjoying true success in its chosen industry.

    I’ll be reviewing Caribbean Savouries products in a few months but you can visit them at http://www.caribbeansavouriesltd.com/


  • Next time you are passing South Africa, don't! Swing by Cape Town and visit a cosy spot for some delicious food. Kassia & Figg is an artisanal deli and eatery at 22 Dalebrook Place, Main Road, Kalk Bay. You’ll find updated news and a pre-order menu at www.vanielje.com (click on Kassia & Figg).

  • Here are the dates for Lotte Duncan's Autumn and Christmas Demonstration Days!Lotte Duncan
     
    Wednesday 23rd September 2009 -  Fabulous Fish Day!
    Wednesday 14th October 2009 - Comfort Food for Chilly Days
    Wednesday 18th November 2009 - Comfort Food for Chilly Days
    Wednesday 2nd December 2009 - Easy Christmas Entertaining
    Wednesday 9th December 2009 - Easy Christmas Entertaining
     
    Days are £100 per person. It starts at 10 am and finishes about 3.30 pm! All the information can be found on Lotte's website 
    www.lotteduncan.com or you can give her a ring on
    01844 208790.
Lotte has a blog that is full of wit, charm and recipes. Have a look at www.lotteduncan.blogspot.com

My Dining Spot
What's on in July

1st - 2nd Royal Norfolk Show  Royal Norfolk

Norfolk Showground, Norwich
       
2nd - 5th Leeds Loves Food
Various venues around the city   
       
3rd - 5th The 2009 Scottish Game Fair
Scone Palace, Perthshire
     
4th Pymoor Agricultural & Country Show
The Recreation Ground,Pymoor, Ely, Cambs 
      
4th - 5th Cotswold Show & Country Fair
Cirencester Park, Cirencester, Glous.  
      
4th - 5th Tarbert Seafood Festival 
Tarbert, Loch Fyne   
     
5th Alton Agricultural Show
Froyle Park, Upton Froyle, Nr Alton, Hampshire
        
7th - 10th The Royal Show
Stoneleigh Park, Warwickshire    

11th Londonderry & Limavady Agricultural Show

Aghanloo, Limavady, Co. Londonderry, N.I.    
       
11th Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival
Aberaeron, Ceredigion, West Wales 

11th Alton Farmers' Market and Food Festival

High Street, Alton, Hampshire
               
14th - 16th Great Yorkshire Show
The Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate
        
17th - 19th Kent County Show
County Showground, Detling, Kent  
      
18th The Cumberland County Show
Rickerby Park, Carlisle, Cumberland
       
20th - 23rd Royal Welsh Show
Llanelwedd, Builth Wells, Powys
      
26th Winchester Guildhall Food & Produce Show
Middlebrook Street and adjoing car park  Markets
  

Rice, Spice and All Things Nice

The Observer Food Monthly described meeting Reza Mahammad as "like being ambushed by a cross between Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and Freddie Mercury". He must be one of the most easily recognised Asian faces on British TV. His effervescent style and playful personality have made him a popular presenter.

Reza was born in England to Indian parents and was sent off to boarding school in Panchgani, India, to be educated.Reza Mahammad His parents were worried that he would lose touch with their roots if he stayed in the UK. This provided Reza with a good British education but he says, “It left me speaking English with a public school accent and Hindi with an English accent. A hybrid torn between two worlds.”

It wasn’t the boarding school food that gave him a passion for fine Indian cuisine. “The food at boarding school was vile – Breakfast: cold fried eggs, watery lentils, stale bread, and rancid butter. Lunch: bland curry, stodgy rice.” He fell in love with Indian cuisine in the holidays when he stayed with his extended family in the Western Ghats in India.

Mr. Mahammad Senior was one of the first Indian chefs to come to Britain. “My father had arrived here in 1937 and we had been brought up on stories of how hard he used to work - tales of how he'd have to wait at the docks for the boats carrying the spices to come in.”

Tragedy struck the family when Reza was 16. His father died of a heart attack and the responsibility of the family business fell on Reza’s young shoulders. “There was an obligation to continue what my father had left behind. It was a duty.” The business in question was The Star of India Restaurant, Old Brompton Road, South Kensington, London.

This was the caricature of a 1950s Indian restaurant with flock wallpaper, which wasn’t much to Reza’s taste. He embarked on a series of revamps and has settled on classic contemporary...for a while! His mother, Kulsum, was horrified. “But I said to her: ‘Who is running this restaurant, you or me?’ People thought I was making a terrible mistake but actually it was the best thing I did.”

The Star of India didn’t have the best reputation for food either, so it’s been hard work and dedication to turn things around. “When I inherited the Star of India from my father, I had no clue about cooking. I picked up a few recipes from my mother and improvised on the restaurant's existing menu. My mantra is to go easy on oil and make food appear as appetising as possible.”

Now The Star of India is one of London’s most successful and prestigious restaurants and Reza is both head chef and proprietor. Today you are likely to be rubbing shoulders with media types and “faces” from TV and film (Daniel Day Lewis, Hugh Grant and Art Malik are regulars) and it’s said that Reza drapes himself across tables and sings arias from time to time, but that could just be a rumour! “The years spent managing The Star of India established the restaurant as an institution and enabled me to explode onto the restaurant and food scene.”

Those media types come in handy sometimes! One of the regulars was a TV director who came up with the idea of Madhur Jaffrey (the original Cooking Star of India) and Reza collaborating on a cookery series that became A Taste of India.

Reza has become a familiar face on TV with UKTV Food Channel's Delhi Belly with Sanjeev Bhaskar, the star of Goodness Gracious Me/The Kumars. Reza’s irrepressible and often camp persona was allowed full rein which resulted in an exotic travelogue filled with authentic food, colour and pazazz. The success of Delhi Belly and the popularity of Reza led on to further series of Coconut Coast, and United States of Reza.

Reza Mahammad has penned his first book, Rice, Spice and All Things Nice; it’s a mixture of dishes from hisRice, Spice and All Things Nice restaurant, travels, and family recipes handed down through the generations. “It’s an attempt to demystify Indian cooking,” says Reza. “More and more people know how Indian food should taste because they've been travelling, but they don't know how to cook it.”

Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is a dream of a cookbook. It has that blend of food and travel that I, for one, find so appealing. The photography of both food and Reza is mouthwatering and the text is amusing but also encouraging. The man obviously wants you to cook his food and you won’t be disappointed if you do.

The recipes are marvellously well chosen and offer something for every taste and skill. There are plenty of classics (Indian Rice Pudding to die for, Cucumber Raita, Chicken Dhansak) but lots of others which might be less familiar.

Afghan Aubergine Casserole has surprisingly few ingredients, is simple to make and delicious. Dak Bungalow Chicken has a longish list of ingredients but don’t be put off. This is another easy dish to make and it’s a stunner. Meatballs in a Green Sauce (Koftas Hara Masala) also has a good number of ingredients but the preparation is easy and you’ll just need to serve some rice alongside. A good recipe for a large dinner party.

Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is amongst my top 10 cookbooks. It is a thoroughly entertaining read, the food is gorgeous, I can make every dish without tears, and it’s a book I’ll actually use. I’ll need another copy as this one will soon be sauce-spattered and dog-eared. The sign of a well-loved cookbook.


Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
Author: Reza Mahammad
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84737-049-5
mostly food journal

Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00

I do love a good Myth-Busting book, and Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00 is a candidate for firstSavoir Fare London prize in the culinary section. Every American tourist seems to have a tale of horror about the food in London. (Does anyone ask how many British tourists have been equally appalled by food in New York?) Whilst it’s true that London, and Britain in general, had a bad reputation for food, things have changed.

The secret of eating well is to know where to go. If you want predictable then London has a good selection of McDonalds and the burgers will taste just the same as they do in Dubuque, Iowa, but why not try some real British food that will have you proclaiming that London is the foodie capital of the world?

Elaine Louie is an American who has dedicated quite a bit of time to researching restaurants that will be appealing to Americans. Elaine works for The New York Times where she is a regular contributor to Home, Dining, and Sunday Styles sections. She was evidently charmed by what she found and probably a little surprised.

Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00 lists 50 or so restaurants that reflect the breadth of the new British restaurant scene. There are eateries that offer breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. They are found in every area of the capital and cover both traditional British and ethnic fare.

Do I have a favourite from this collection of restaurants? Yes, but it’s not a restaurant, it’s a pub, or more correctly a gastropub. It’s an establishment with the charm of an iconic pub but with more attention to food. It’s the Eagle Public House in Clerkenwell, East London and was one of the original gastropubs. There have been a few reviews of late that suggest that this gastropub might be getting by on reputation alone, but it’s still worth a look.

This chunky volume will be a riveting read to any American with an interest in food and a ticket to Heathrow. There are great suggestions here so steer clear of tourist traps and follow the locals, and you’ll not go hungry. A lovely gift for a traveller.


Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00
Author: Elaine Louie
Published by: The Little Bookroom
Price: $14.95, £8.99, $16.95CAN
ISBN 978-1-892145-65-9
mostly food journal

Historic Colorado

Claude Wiatrowski has an evident passion for Colorado and another, equal in depth, for trains. He has three degreesHistoric Colorado in sensible technical and engineering subjects but he also plays drums for a brace of big bands, a gospel quartet and a polka band. A well-rounded character, I’d say.

I had never considered a vacation in anything other than a city when visiting the USA. I am not, by nature, the woodsy sort who loves the outdoors, hiking, camping, getting too cold, getting too hot. I am not a lover of wildlife (the clue is in the name – “wild”) and each tree looks the same as the next, so why would I want to spend time in Colorado?

Well, I read James A. Michener’s Centennial and I was hooked. Historic Colorado adds some vibrant and exciting pictures and has turned that novel into a subliminal movie. I might not normally be a fanatic when it comes to long walks but a walk in such country would be a thrill and well worth getting a little overheated for.

The author has a marvellous collection of photographs. The contemporary ones show the scenery to great advantage, and the black and white pictures show faces and places of those who made this land part of the USA, or whose land was taken to become part of the USA. Colorado is a state with an ethnic diversity that has helped to give it a cultural richness.

Historic Colorado offers tours of regions within the state and all have associated maps so it’s easy to choose the area that best suits your travel needs and interests. Each has a number of suggested trips with detailed directions, photographs and information to put your surroundings into historic context.

Colorado has an amazing past. Indians, Spanish, gold miners, settlers from the East have all left their mark, and sometimes scars, on the face of this land. The USA might be a new(ish) country but Colorado has a past that reaches back thousands of years and reflects human struggle and initiative. You’ll find mysterious ancient pueblos, breathtaking mountains, abandoned mines, iconic railways and the echo of pioneers. This is the real America that so many tourists, even American ones, seek.

Historic Colorado is a must-have book for all those who are planning a visit. Take this along with Centennial and you will have a trip of a lifetime... if you can fit it all into just one vacation.


Historic Colorado
Author: Claude Wiatrowski
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $22.99US, £13.99, $24.95CAN
ISBN 978-0-7603-3256-6
mostly food journal

Gentleman’s Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities

This small chunky book is a treat. It lists and describes just about all of those quirky and well-loved foodstuffs thatGentleman’s Relish we hold dear. Yes, we consider them to be English but a remarkable number of them have either foreign origins or foreign originators.

Gentleman’s Relish is a mine of information that will charm any foodie. Gentleman’s Relish, the celebrated fish paste, is the first item and it’s a smart one from any view-point. It’s a strong and salty concoction much enjoyed by the English upper classes. First devised by John Osborn in 1828 it has anchovies as its key ingredient. It’s synonymous with the sadly missed Savoury Course at dinner parties, where it would be presented to those guests (mostly the men) who still had a chink of space after the preceding seven or so courses. Those were the days.

I didn’t know exactly the origin of Mars bars. I knew it was unlikely to be Mars and it is, in fact, the USA. They didn’t find their way across the pond till the 1930s. The English contribution to chocolate heaven might be Bendicks Bittermints, which are often taken home by tourists who appreciate the packaging as much as the candy. It says ‘Mayfair’!

The Full English Breakfast and HP Sauce could very easily have been combined into a single article. Yes, it’s true that many now eat the Full Monty with tomato ketchup; the purist will stick to HP sauce and English mustard. There are regional variations, with white pudding being added in Ireland, black pudding being included in the North, but all with fried bread, which is delicious but probably a killer if you indulge more than once a year.

The histories of so many dishes are surprising. Eaton Mess, Angostura Bitters, Bombay (not Mumbai) Duck and Worcestershire (if you are English you’ll just call it Worcester – pronounced wooster  - oo as in book) Sauce are all here, along with many others. Gentleman’s Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities is a most absorbing volume and a tasteful gift for any food lover. Delightful.


Gentleman’s Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities
Author: National Trust
Publisher by: Anova
Price: £6.99
ISBN 9781905400553
mostly food journal

No-Oil Cooking

There are many of us now who are overweight and an increasing number who are clinically obese. In some EuropeanNo-Oil Cooking countries that figure has increased (no pun intended) to 25% of the population. That is a staggering statistic.

We have more overweight people and the weight by which they are “over” has also increased. The reasons for the rise in weight-related disease are simple: modern lifestyle and eating habits. We drive more and walk less. Our jobs often require little movement apart from fingers sprinting across computer keys. We don’t think we have time to cook healthy foods and we choose more and more fatty, pre-prepared foods or takeaways (takeouts).

Sanjeev Kapoor presents us with recipes that are both oil-free (that is to say no added oil) and are still delicious and satisfying. He is India’s most celebrated chef and food industry guru. Sanjeev is increasingly recognised by a discerning overseas audience as an authority on Indian food and his books and TV series Khana Khazana have long been popular. No-Oil Cooking has his touch of exotica and common sense which will be appealing to every nationality of reader.

Cooking with no added oil isn’t difficult... but it’s important to have recipes that have that taste and mouth-feel that at the end of the meal give us the sensation of having had “proper” food. It’s no good eating an oil-free meal and then tucking into a huge box of chocolates because you feel empty.

The chapters cover everything from drinks to main courses to sweets and everything in between. The recipes listed don’t read like worthy, noble and boring healthfood dishes. This is tasty food that just happens to be good for you. The whole family will enjoy these offerings so you won’t be confronted with the perennial problem of cooking one meal for the health-conscious folk and a different one for those who just live to eat. One meal fits all!

Garlic-Flavoured Rasam is my choice from the Beverages, Soups and Salads chapter. This is comfort food that is, thankfully, good for you. It is easy to prepare and that preparation only takes 10 minutes. The cooking time is just 30 minutes, without constant attention.

Corn Bhel couldn’t be simpler and is the ultimate healthy snack. Sanjeev uses Green Coriander Chutney and Date and Tamarind Chutney for this delight and he gives both recipes so you’ll have no excuse not to make it.

Vegetable Seekh Kebabs would be a great addition to any barbeque. They would be welcomed by vegetarians who are so often overlooked on these occasions but it’s also no-guilt munching for those who are looking for a healthy option. These are so tempting that you’ll need to make enough for the meat eaters as well.

No-Oil Cooking offers fast, no-fuss food that is full of flavour, colour and texture. Your body will thank you and so will your family.


No-Oil Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs 295
ISBN 81-7991-279-5
mostly food journal

Alan Coxon is Well Preserved

Alan Coxon is Well Preserved

Well, yes, he probably is but we are talking about pickles! (I could have said that “Alan Coxon is well pickled” but that would be neither true nor polite.) Alan has had great success with his remarkable vinegars and so is taking his product range to the next logical step, using them to great advantage in pickles and chutneys.

Alan is not presenting us with weird concoctions but rather sticking to vegetables that are familiar, but with that little bit of je ne sais quoi. The beetroot is often golden, apple is married with beetroot, the red cabbage is organic, and all are partnered with varieties of Alan’s celebrated historic vinegars.

Luxury Marinated Onions in Roman Vinaigre

(Product singled out as a favourite by Delia Smith online!)

Alan’s Luxury Marinated Onions in Roman Vinaigre retain the distinctive and delicious flavour of his Roman Vinaigre, which sets these crisp British onions apart from your usual pickled onion. You’ll taste the difference. Save any remaining vinegar to use in cooking.

Add these onions to chicken casseroles and roasts, and serve with cold beef, eat as part of a traditional ploughman’s lunch with salad and a gutsy cheese, perk up sandwiches.

About Roman Vinaigre:

Cinnamon is the predominant spice, but with hints of chamomile that gives a good balance of flavour. It has the most wonderful rich scent and a slight sweetness of honey. This would be a terrific glaze for roast pork or used to dress chopped red onion as a relish with an Indian meal. Use as an addition to salad dressings; as a dip for crusty bread with a dash of olive oil; add to hot butter- or egg-based sauces or as a marinade for pork or poultry. Outstanding!

Luxury Golden Baby Beetroots in Roman Vinaigre
(Nominated for a HEFF Diamond Award)

and Luxury Golden Baby Sliced Beetroots in Roman VinaigreGolden baby beets

These unique beetroots were, in fact, popular back in Roman times before the striking but messy red
beetroots became fashionable.

Using the finest golden beetroots grown in Worcestershire and Staffordshire from heritage seed, Alan’s Luxury Golden Baby Beetroots have been marinated in his award-winning Roman Vinaigre for maximum flavour. These little gems are remarkable and tasty, and will fire the imagination of any real foodie. They should be the next big food trend. These delicious pickles are also available sliced, in Alan’s Luxury Golden Baby Sliced Beetroots in Roman Vinaigre.

Serve these golden beets in salads, with cheese, warm with game, and with cold meats. They also work well dressed with yoghurt and have the advantage that the colour does not leak into the sauce, so you won’t have a Barbie-pink extravaganza.

English Apple and Golden Beetroot Chutney with Roman VinaigreEnglish Apple Chutney

Alan says that fresh and local has been the key to this chutney’s success. The golden beetroots are grown from heritage seeds a few miles from Alan’s kitchen and the apples come from the neighbouring orchard. They are hand-picked the morning of production which I guess is the culinary equivalent to Cuban cigars being rolled on ladies’ thighs.

This is a quite outstanding chutney and that is saying a lot when you consider how many grace the shelves of better supermarkets. English Apple and Golden Beetroot Chutney with Roman Vinaigre is a great alternative to an apple sauce for roast pork, game and cold meats. It is marvellous with cheese sandwiches and quiches and even as a mild condiment for Indian meals.

Luxury Organic Red Cabbage in Ancient Greek Vinaigre

Only the finest, freshest cabbage has been used in Alan’s Luxury Organic Red Cabbage in Ancient Greek Vinaigre. Alan uses hand-sliced organic red cabbage, grown and pickled in the Vale of Evesham. Alan’s award-winning Vinaigre gives a full and interesting flavour to the cabbage and sets it apart from the mouth-puckering varieties that we are accustomed to. This is ideal with cold cuts and salads but try it with sausages, and use the remaining vinegar in dressings.

About Ancient Greek Vinaigre:

This is light and floral with a clean acidity but also a sweet aftertaste. It’s exotic and very different. It will remind you of rosewater-laced salads from North Africa.

Baby Ruby Beetroots Marinated in Ancient Greek Vinaigre

Cooked in Alan’s award-winning Ancient Greek Vinaigre, these Baby Ruby Beetroots offer a traditional pickled vegetable but with a different flavour - almost a sweet and sour quality. Use in the usual way but keep any remaining vinegar. This, like Alan’s other pickles, does double duty. You eat the veg and still have a product that will enhance other dishes.

Perfect for salads, cold meats, pies, with pork or game.

Beetroot and Chilli Chutney with Mediaeval Ale-Gar

This beetroot chutney has been cooked and marinated in Alan’s award-winning Ale-Gar. The chilli adds just a hint of warming and exotic spice but it’s not an overpoweringly hot pickle. The taste is rich and robust and ideal for serving with other strong flavours. Eat this with mature cheddar, blue cheeses, warm with pork and duck, with cold meat, and with roast vegetables.

About Ale-Gar:

This is the colour of stout and is slightly reminiscent of balsamic vinegar. It has a very particular flavour that enhances red meat so well. It could be an alternative to Worcestershire sauce-based condiments.

Alan has his own online store where you will find his whole range of products as well as gift hampers. Visit http://www.alancoxon.com/store.php

mostly food journal

10 Minutes to Table

Well, that sounded a tall order! Was this going to be a lot of hastily-chopped salad? Perhaps a collection of10 Minutes to Table toast recipes? Probably publicity for the world’s most expensive can-opener. No, these are very good recipes that will only take you (well, OK, a very practised you) 10 minutes or so. Admittedly we are not talking casseroles, slow braises or chunky roasts but very sensible food that will have even those who hate the inside of a kitchen signing up for a bit of cooking.

You might know the author, Xanthe Clay from the Telegraph where she writes for the weekend section and regularly contributes to the paper. She also has a weekly webcast on Telegraph TV. Xanthe had a Saturday Telegraph column, Readers Recipes, which ran for eight years and was the inspiration for her first book, It’s Raining Plums.

We all know what it’s like to be strapped for time. Life is a constant juggle with work, family or social activities and it’s often meals that suffer. It’s tempting to take the quick option of “instant” food. We all do it but how daft is it to buy fast food that actually takes longer to prepare than its fresh home-cooked original. We see frozen pasta with sauce that takes as long to cook as regular pasta, and you could use that time to make your own additive/E-number-free sauce.

Now, I love cooking but I am aware that there are many out there who do not. There is no shame in that but you can honestly have a meal on the table in less time than it would take you to shake a Martini and phone Wayne at the pizza shop. You’ll save a packet, and your body and your bank manager will thank you. These dishes are tempting, economic and fast.

There are 80 10-minute dishes here... well, actually there are also 30 dishes that take less than 5 minutes to make. The chapters are divided by food type and there is something here for everyone, with plenty of fish and vegetarian options.

I was expecting a lot of spaghetti but there is, in fact, only one recipe for pasta... and that is for home-made pasta. Yes, it can be done in a few minutes with the use of a food processor and a good pasta machine, but you might need to be a confident cook to tackle that one. The other recipes are surprising in their sophistication and good enough to serve to guests.

Rare Beef with Radish, Cress and Pea Salad is hearty and smart. As Xanthe points out, you could add some baby new potatoes if you can spare just a few minutes more. Fresh Sardines with Parsley, Spring Onions and Jersey Royals is light and delicious, and these little fish are some of the cheapest around.

The most stunning recipe is for Speedy Fish Soup. It isn’t too expensive to make as it uses salmon and pollack and just a few prawns and mussels. It looks amazing and would be a lovely dinner party dish. You’ll spend more time laying the table than cooking.

10 Minutes to Table is a book full of ideas for meals that are not a compromise. No more excuses for buying TV dinners, buy this book instead.


10 Minutes to Table
Author: Xanthe Clay
Published by: Mitchell Beazley
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978 1 84533 495 6
mostly food journal

In the Mood for Entertaining

The first word that springs to mind is gorgeous. The photographs by Gareth Morgans are first rate but theIn the Mood for Entertaining illustrations by Cecilia Carlstedt help to elevate this book to gift quality. The author, Jo Pratt, looks as lovely as the food and the food is mouth-watering but never too cheffy.

Jo is a familiar face to UK Food TV viewers and this is her second book. She has a light and conversational style of writing which marries well with the modern and fuss-cutting concept of the book. There are little twists on classic recipes, and dishes that are new and fresh, but always with the time-strapped home cook in mind.

The cover says it’s Delicious Food for all Occasions and Jo has done a good job of selecting a wide range of dishes to suit those times when there are just two of you (best friend, partner, favourite auntie), when it’s a girls/boys night in, when you can’t wriggle out of giving a dinner party, and when you have to feed a crowd of hungry revellers. It’s all here and amazingly simple.

Sweet Potato Hash Browns with Sausages and Sweet Chilli Tomatoes, from the Breakfast and Brunch chapter, makes a nice change from the Full Monte when you want to gain Brownie points with your partner. (I’ll be leaving the book open at this page on Saturday night in the hopes that on Sunday morning... )

Mocha Toffee Sundaes are quick and won’t cost an arm and a leg. Anything with a hint of melted Mars Bar has got to be good. This is a dessert that you’ll make time and time again. It has a drop or two of Tia Maria or brandy to give an adult edge, but even without that addition I would say it’s too good for the kids.

If you are not into chocolate then Baked Portuguese Custard Tarts will probably fit the bill. They are lighter than the traditional British custard tart as this recipe uses filo pastry. You might feel that you can manage a couple at the end of a meal.

Although I feel myself drawn as if in a trance to the sweet dishes, my very favourite of recipes is probably that for Aromatic Monkfish Curry with Toasted Coconut. Monkfish is an ideal fish to use in this dish as it doesn’t disintegrate when cooked but remains meaty and makes for an attractive presentation. Jo suggests that tiger prawns would make a good alternative.

In the Mood for Entertaining is a delight and a feast for both eyes and taste buds. It’s thoughtful in both design and content and deserves to be popular.


In the Mood for Entertaining
Author: Jo Pratt
Published by: Michael Joseph – Penguin
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15406-6

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Honeybuns Cookies

I wrote a review a while ago (and here it is again for those who missed it) about Honeybuns cakes and the company.Honeybuns cookies Well, now I can add cookies to the list of products that it’s been my pleasure to sample.

They are all gluten-free and delectable. Being individually wrapped, they are ideal for summer outdoor eating. They are moist and almost a cake, and they actually taste of the ingredients, which sounds an obvious statement but there are lots of cookies out there that taste of nothing but refined sugar.

Almond and Salted Pistachio Cookie is 50% almonds and 14% pistachio. Those are high percentages of the good stuff.

Honeyed Apple Cookie has over 30% apple in various forms as well as real honey.

Triple Chocolate Tinker Cookies are perhaps the best chocolate cookies I have eaten. They contain a whopping 35% Belgian chocolate and you can tell it’s there. A box of these cookies would make an ideal gift for any chocolate lover and a change from a box of chocolates, and I very much hope my husband is reading this.

I am now off to apply for a job with Honeybuns as chief sampler.

Honeybuns and Cakes

This little company, Honeybuns, is another BBC Good Food Show find. The stand was a delight, the proprietor, Emma, is lovely, young and enthusiastic, and the cakes are to die for.

Emma says “I had a hare-brained scheme to pedal around Oxford delivering my home-made cakes to delis and cafes during the late 1990s. We've still got the bike leant up against our Bee Shack Cafe wall. Some visitors assume it's just an attractive prop, but it truly is the original facilitator of the Honeybuns enterprise!

Now based at Naish Farm in beautiful Dorset, our growth has been organic and gentle. Everything is still made completely by hand without rushing and we take a holistic approach, considering our environment and community in everything we do.”

I have had the pleasure of tasting a selection of Honeybuns products. Many are gluten-free and all are moist and utterly delicious. It’s not only this humble writer who reckons these cakes are high-end. Honeybuns have a list of awards as long as your arm, culminating with the Blackmore Vale Media Taste of Dorset Awards 2008 - Most Inspirational Food Business, and The Great Taste Awards 2007 Gold*** Great Taste Award.

Heathcliffe Brownie, Cranberry and Pecan Flapjack, and Coppice Cake were my selections from the tin of Minis. Each of the individually-wrapped squares of cake was fresh, moist and had the texture of freshly baked and home-made goods. The Heathcliff Brownie has a subtle orange flavour which is admired even by those who don’t normally enjoy anything chocolatey (I had to hide the tin after I foolishly allowed my husband to try a brownie). The Cranberry and Pecan Flapjack has a lovely hint of maple syrup, and the Coppice Cake would be a marvellous afternoon tea-time treat, fruity and scrumptious.

The quality of these cakes is unbeatable and the packaging makes them ideal gifts. Emma offers a choice of attractive tins of cakes that would be brilliant presents for almost anyone of any age. Because the cakes are individually wrapped they stay fresh for quite a while but they can equally be frozen with no ill effects.

You can visit Honeybuns at www.honeybuns.co.uk where you will find an online shop as well as all kinds of nutritional information


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Great Party Fondues

Peggy Fallon has done it again, with another edible offering of temptations both savoury and sweet. I haveGreat Party Fondues recently reviewed books by Peggy on ice cream and dips and they both have the same easy style which encourages the reader to believe that they too can produce stunning food.

Great Party Fondues is bound to be popular. Those who lack courage in the kitchen will warm to a fondue because some of the responsibility for the meal lies with the guests. Others with a bit more culinary savvy will enjoy the amazing variety of fondues collected here.

My fondue set dates back to the 1970s, shortly after cheese was invented. It has a ceramic bowl in blood red (I did mention that it was the 70s) for Swiss Fondue, and a metal pot for meat fondue. Well, having invited family and people I liked for meals I finally concluded that you could only present fondue once a year to each guest... so the fondue set has hardly seen the light of day in a couple of decades. But it seems that there are more than two kinds of fondue, and the abandoned wedding present is now back in full swing.

The book has chapters on Cheese Fondues, Savoury Fondues, Dessert Fondues and Dipping Sauces. There are 70 or so recipes so you’ll not be chained to the traditional classic Swiss, although I do love it and it’s a good start for a fondue virgin. Welsh Rarebit (no, it doesn’t contain rabbit) would be a winner for a cold evening. This has bite and tang and is based on the traditional recipe which is more often seen garnishing a slice of toast.

Tomato-Vodka Fondue is going to introduce much of the world to a sauce that is already popular on pasta and enjoyed throughout the USA. It’s not quite so well known worldwide and you’ll wonder why when you taste this. Use roast vegetables to dunk but also fried polenta cubes or meatballs for a real Italian feast. This couldn’t be easier to make and it’s a stunner.

For a smart dinner party try Tabletop Fish Fry. Shrimp, tuna, scallops and squid are marinated in an oriental sauce and then fried in peanut oil. This would be a convivial ice-breaker and very chic when served with a selection of dips, but my favourite savoury recipe is Creamy Bagna Cauda. This is a punchy fondue of garlic and anchovies which are, in this particular recipe, tamed by the addition of cream. This is a warm rather than hot fondue and would be an ideal addition to a buffet table.

The sweet Dessert Fondues are to die for. Peanut Butter Fondue with Chocolate Swirls is outstanding, and if you serve it with chunks of fruit you can call it a health food. Dulce de Leche Fondue has a hint of summer when served with pineapple and semi-frozen bananas, although a pound cake or Madeira cake would be my choice if I had to use anything other than a big spoon!

Great Party Fondues is an attractive book (pictures by Alexandra Grablewski) and full of innovation. This is cooking at its most simple but the results are impressive. Dust off your fondue set and have some retro fun. That’s what I’ll be doing.


Great Party Fondues
Author: Peggy Fallon
Published by John Wiley and Sons
Price: £11.99, $16.95US
ISBN 978-0-470-23979-7
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Spices – A Global History

This is another in the celebrated Edible Series by Reaktion Books and I’ll heap as much praise on this volumeSpices as all the others in the collection.

What is so special about these books? Each has a different author (in this case Fred Czarra who is an International Education consultant and Adjunct Professor of World Geography at St. Mary’s College, Maryland) but the format is the same. Iconic images, well-researched text covering just one food item which is explored in depth. In this case it’s Spices and this truly is a Global History.

This isn’t a cookbook but rather, as the title implies, a history book. Don’t reach for the “Back” button! You’ll like this history book as its focus is on food not famous folks. There isn’t an exam at the end of your reading session so you can just relax and enjoy a thoroughly riveting read. Spices have literally shaped the modern world so the story that starts in the dim and distant past still has implications today.

There are five main spices that have had a worldwide impact and they are: cinnamon, cloves, chilli pepper, nutmeg and pepper. Their very existence has encouraged exploration, war and slavery, and they have been shrouded in mystery and legend.

No, this isn’t a recipe book although there is plenty of information about how spices have been used down the ages. This is a voyage of exotic discovery that will tempt all food lovers. You’ll be transported to paradise islands where monstrous birds made their nests from cinnamon branches. Cloves were said to come from a hidden valley and were sold by genies. In The Book of One Thousand and One Nights, Sinbad the Sailor told of his journey to the Spice Islands,s and the route that he describes had existed for over 3000 years!

Spices have changed the world more than any other food (Brussels sprouts are rarely mentioned in historic tomes) and Fred Czarra helps us understand why. The exploration for spices was the ancient world’s equivalent of sending a man to the moon, and Spices – A Global History is a riveting read.


Spices – A Global History
Author: Fred Czarra
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99, $15.95US
ISBN 978-1-86189-426-7
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The Asian Grill

Yes, it’s a BBQ book but one with a difference. This will capture the imagination of those who long forThe Asian Grill something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding, burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of marinades and condiments.

Corinne Trang is an international chef and food authority. Her heritage is Asian and European, and she is one of the few who are truly at home with both genres; but more importantly she loves food. Might sound a strange and rather obvious statement but there are many chefs and food-industry gurus who are just doing a job, but Corinne is a chef, a food professional, and a foodie with all the passionate enthusiasm that word implies.

I am not a lover of Fusion food as it is so often a compromise. Some chefs have built reputations on marrying ingredients which should never even have been introduced. Corinne’s food is easily described as good food with Asian flavour. There is nothing here that will bring the cry of horror, nothing that jars, but plenty that looks good on paper and even better on a plate.

The Asian Grill will gently lead you away (you can return from time to time) from ketchup, mustard and liquid smoke and will playfully nudge you in the direction of soy sauce, sesame oil and mirin. All the ingredients are available in a supermarket near you or via mail order. The cooking techniques don’t require a training course and you probably already have the equipment, so you are ready to dazzle.

Back-yard grilling isn’t famed for having a sophisticated meal as its end-product. It’s more often burgers like hockey pucks and flavourless chicken. It’s rarely the food that is the centre of attention but rather the grilling process that encourages conviviality. We marvel at the “skill” of (mostly) men who only don an apron when the smell of lighter fuel is in the air. Grilling is simple and was the first cooking method. Cavemen didn’t say “I’ll rustle up a nice soufflé for lunch” or “How about a delicately toasted English muffin with passion-fruit jelly?” No, dear reader, it would likely be “Pass me the pinny, Unk, I’m grilling tonight.”

Corinne has a flair for flavour, not only for the dishes that are grilled, but for all the associated breads, rices, noodles, and even sweets and drinks. There is everything you will need in this one vibrant and attractive volume. You will be able to compose meals around the grill that will be elegant but still fun both to cook and to eat.

I love lamb and The Asian Grill has a recipe that is a joy. Lamb Marinated in Yellow Spice Paste is flavoured with a pungent mix which elevates these kebabs into something mouthwatering. Corinne suggests serving these with Scallion Flat Bread from this same book. Pork Patties could be an alternative filling for that bread, and this recipe has a distinct Vietnamese flavour with fish sauce and lemon grass. BBQ Pork is Corinne’s version of the Cantonese classic, Char Siu, often seen hanging in windows in Chinatowns the world over. This will always be a crowd-pleaser.

Perhaps my favourite recipe is that for Spicy Sweet Soy Sauce Marinated Chicken. It couldn’t be easier to prepare but the resulting bird is a long way from the usual lack-lustre poultry of by-gone BBQs ...or I might choose Spicy Squid Salad ...but Asian Clambake is impressive ...although...

The Asian Grill is a book stuffed with tempting and flavourful food. You don’t need to know anything about cooking Asian food, and even a novice griller should be confident of a lot of compliments; everything you need to know is here. Corinne Trang has once again produced a book that will soon be stained through much use, and that’s a fine accolade for any cookbook.


The Asian Grill
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US
ISBN: 978-0-8118-4631-8
mostly food journal

The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook

No, dear reader, you don’t have to run off with a farmer to be able to enjoy this book. You won’t need toThe Farmer’s Wife Cookbook have furtive visits to your local library proclaiming in a loud voice that you truly are a farmer’s wife to be eligible for a peek between these covers. The farmers’ wives in question are truly the authors of this book, as they submitted their blue-ribbon family recipes to be shared.

The Farmer’s Wife was a monthly magazine which was published from 1893 to 1939. The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook is a product of the magazine and offers the modern cookbook collector a rare opportunity to learn more about the eating habits of rural communities in the USA. Seems they ate quite well if these recipes are anything to go by.

The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook has a wealth of recipes that are mostly valid for the modern cook. The ingredients are simple and inexpensive and that should be enough to entice any credit-crunched foodie to take a look at this volume. There are dishes here that will seem rather retro but that is the charm of this book. There will be things that you’ll remember from your grandmother’s kitchen (assuming your grandmother lived in America, that is), or will be totally new to you.

The Quick Breads chapter offers Biscuits. These are delicious but a minefield of intercontinental misunderstanding. A biscuit, in this case, is like a scone if you are English. A scone is like an American biscuit. A biscuit, for the English, is the same as an American cookie. A cookie is what the English assume is the ritual accompaniment to a glass of American milk. A glass of milk to the English is...a glass of milk.

The Chicken section of Meats has some classic delights that are seldom seen these days apart from gracing the tables of a traditional diner. Creamed Chicken is rich and sustaining and a great way to use up left-over poultry. The Ground (minced) Meat section has Swedish Meatballs and Swedish Kol Dolma and probably reflects the Scandinavian heritage of the magazine’s readers and contributors.

The Fish chapter isn’t huge but that’s not surprising when you consider that most farms in the US were/are a long way from the coast. Good use is therefore made of canned fish, so these recipes are excellent store-cupboard meals for the modern home cook. Salmon Loaf is simple to prepare and an economic way of spinning out a 418-gram tin of fish to feed 4-6 people.

There is a gem of a recipe here that I remember from holidays in Dubuque, Iowa. It’s a Moulded Salad and I had never come across such a thing. It’s a cold gelatine dish of cottage cheese and pineapple set in a lemon jelly. This might not sound appealing but it’s an unsophisticated winner.

The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook isn’t a glossy, picture-packed, celebrity-promoting extravaganza. This is simple home cooking that won’t break the bank. It’s both a memory archive and also a working recipe book that will be enjoyed by food historians and food enthusiasts.


The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook
Authors: Lots of Farmers Wives
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $14.95US £9.99
ISBN 978-0-7603-3489-8

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La Porte des Indes Cookbook

Some of you, my dear readers, might be able to translate that title with ease (education is a marvellousLa Porte des Indes Cookbook thing). The Gateway to the Indies is my stab at it but why is it a French title for a book of Indian food? The subtitle is The legacy of France in Indian regional cuisine and, yes, there is indeed a region of India that was a little piece of France ...till 1954.

I had already some idea about Pondicherry as my father had spent time there in the 1940s (his friend, Taffy, being “deported” to India for having a liaison with the daughter of a civil servant) but I had no idea that the French food connection had lasted so long. It’s subtle but unmistakable.

There are in fact deux Portes des Indes restaurants, one in London and the other in Brussels, where it originated. Not probably the city with the closest of Indian connections but evidently one which was open to new culinary trends. La Porte des Indes is part of the Blue Elephant empire and has the same sumptuous decor, that has become the trademark of both restaurants.

The vibrant driving forces behind both the restaurant and the cookbook are Mehernosh and Sherin Mody. The book has also benefited from the skills of food and travel writer John Hellon and we have the gorgeous results of their collaboration. It’s contemporary, bright and full of amazing close-up shots by celebrated photographer Tony le Duc.

But the food is the star. There are familiar dishes but even these have been given the La Porte twist. I hadn’t expected to see Chicken Tikka Masala, which has become a cliché of Anglicised Indianish food. This dish, however, is something a bit smart and has a sauce of turmeric yellow. A cut above the original.

A signature dish of La Porte des Indes is Poulet Rouge (Chicken in a Creamy Red Sauce) but it is easy for a home cook to make this dish. It’s rich and stunning and just what you’ll cook if you want to impress on a budget. Chicken thighs are economic and the other ingredients are readily available in your local supermarket.

Duck is one of those archetypical French ingredients so here we have Magret de Canard Pulivaar (Roasted Duck Breasts in a Spicy Tamarind Sauce). The meat might make you think of romantic bistro meals in Paris but the marinade and sauce are all Indian. Madame Lourdes Swamy of Pondicherry is the originator of this recipe.

This is a restaurant cookbook so it has a chapter devoted to cocktails, and just the names will transport you to the subcontinent. Monsoon (Midori, melon vodka and champagne), Tamarind Martini (gin, limoncello and tamarind puree) are just a couple and there are also some lovely desserts.

Indian restaurant desserts are often a disappointing bunch but La Porte des Indes Cookbook has some unique and classy ones. Payasam (green lentils and tender coconut pudding) is a stunner but it would demand a visit to an Asian supermarket. Chocolate and Chikki Kulfi is Belgian Chocolate and Praline Ice Cream and a true liaison of two of the world’s classic culinary cultures.

La Porte des Indes Cookbook is something a bit special. It’s modern and full of innovation but it cherishes its French/Indian roots which have combined to create a cuisine with touches of both. A joy to read and to cook from.


La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Authors: Mehernosh Mody, Sherin Mody and John Hellon
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £20.00
ISBN 1-86205-643-9
mostly food journal

Cook in Boots

Ravinder Bhogal has been described as the Fanny Craddock for the next generation by the controversialCook in Boots chef Gordon Ramsay. Mrs. Craddock was iconic, eccentric and often rude but Ravinder is rather attractive, humorous and could perhaps be described as a Nigela Lawson for the modern glutton. Ravinder does, in fact, consider herself a ‘greedy girl about town’. It’s evident from this, her first book, that good food is high up on this young lady’s agenda.

The author is a fashion and beauty journalist and Cook in Boots reflects elements of this other career. It’s a stunner, with striking photographs from Jason Lowe, although Ravinder can take some credit for the presentation as she was the food stylist for the project.

The dishes are amusing and designed to entice those of us who have differing fancies with every change of mood and circumstance. There is comfort food; I lost my man (or woman) food, PMT chocolate aid, night with the telly meals, as well as food for the end of the month when the piggy bank is empty. There is some standard fare here but lots more that is trendy and fresh.

There is a chapter entitled Hard-up Food: For when you’ve spent all your lolly on your Louboutins. A long name but catchy and would be even more so if I knew what a Louboutin was. This chapter offers some tasty dishes such as Chickpea and Potato Curry which uses time-saving tins of chickpeas (no over-night soaking). The Fork Me, Spoon Me: The food of love and rude food chapter has some sexy platefuls such as the classic Grilled Oysters with Garlic and Parsley Breadcrumbs (the archetypal aphrodisiac) and Fig Tarte Tatin which might well be this summer’s signature dish ...at least it will be chez nous.

There are lots of easy but classy dishes here and Pizza with Potatoes and Thyme is on that list as it has such simple sophistication. It’s part of the Bread, Pasta, Potatoes chapter but it could just as reasonably have been included in the aforementioned Hard-up Food section or even Hangover Food. But Oreo Cookie Cheesecake will be my choice from the Comfort Food chapter and probably from the whole book. It’s a flexible recipe that will work equally as well with other sandwich biscuits such as Bourbons and Custard Creams. Ravinder says that this is best eaten in bed with a spoon like a spade. A girl after my own heart.

Cook in Boots might be the winner in the Debut Cookbook category this year. It is, I don’t doubt, going to be on the Christmas list of any greedy girl (or boy) with a sense of dash and style. A fine selection of Mood Food.

Cook in Boots
Author: Ravinder Bhogal
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-00-729117-5
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Family Meals for a Fiver

I am an unashamed supporter of the Good Housekeeping Institute and their books. I have a fine collectionFamily Meals for a Fiver of cookbooks, as you would expect a reviewer to have, but, with a few exceptions, I reach for a cookbook of this nature rather than that of a celebrity chef ... or celebrity-turned-chef.

Family Meals for a Fiver could not have been published at a better time. Our news is filled with tales of job loss, home repossession and MPs who are self-indulgent moat-digging, duck-housing, flat-flippers. More of us are watching the pennies but we want to eat well and this book could be a welcome aid to living the low-budget high-life.

There is a generation of people that have not enjoyed the benefit of cooking lessons at school (I hated mine with a will known to few but I can now cook) and might not even have had the advantage of a parent to encourage them in any kind of kitchen escapade. Family Meals for a Fiver will be most appealing to the culinarily bewildered as it offers over 250 tried and tested recipes that are simple.

The Basics chapter will be a great help to the novice cook but perhaps some of us more practised home chefs could consider some of this advice. A well-stocked store cupboard will provide you with almost instant and economic meals. A freezer stuffed with some well-chosen ingredients will add to your repertoire of fast home-made meals, rather than resorting to frozen ready meals; you can reserve those for absolute emergencies (the dog has just had puppies or the shed has burnt down).

You won’t be feeling noble, virtuous and self-denying if you use these recipes. They don’t have that cutting corners, budgety feel of cheap and nasty food. Family Meals for a Fiver offers sound advice for making the best of the foods that you might normally buy. Why throw away food when you can turn that food into tasty meals. Meat is expensive these days so stretching it for another day will save money. The dishes here are delicious and range from the exotic and trendy to the traditional and comforting.

Risotto Milanese is a classic and sophisticated enough for an informal dinner party. It’s easier to prepare than you might imagine and you can adapt this recipe by adding peas for a bit of colour or some left over ham or chicken for a change. Bacon and Garden Vegetable Risotto has...well, bacon and garden vegetables but these can be varied with the change of season.

Desserts and puds don’t have to be relegated to memory. There is a lovely selection here of well-known favourites as well as some contemporary dishes. Treacle Tart is always on my list of sweet indulgence but I’ll include Toffee Cheesecake in future. But for a sheer “why didn’t I think of that” moment there is Cheat’s Chocolate Pots which involves only chocolate and the crafty use of a carton of fresh custard.

Family Meals for a Fiver is a lovely cookbook with food that is appetising and surprisingly thrifty. There is a picture for almost every recipe and the cooking tips and ideas will be welcomed by both the novice and the experienced cook. I recommend this one.


Family Meals for a Fiver
Author: The Good Housekeeping Institute
Published by: Collins and Brown – Anova Books
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84340-537-5
mostly food journal

Dal and Kadhi

Sanjeev Kapoor is the Indian chef with the golden touch. His acclaimed TV series, Khana Khazana, hasDal and Kadhi enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is the popularity of this man.

Dal and Kadhi presents regional comfort food at its best and the book is as delightful as the food. Each recipe is accompanied by a photograph by Bharat Bhirangi who has a talent for showing these dishes in a mouth-watering fashion. You’ll be planning your next meal before you leave the bookshop.

What could be better than a flavourful dal or kadhi to eat with rice or roti? Your meal might be humble or you could add a dal to an array of other dishes to make a sumptuous and satisfying spread. They range in texture from the rich and substantial to the light and refreshing to suit the season or the occasion. These are the dishes that people miss when they leave home and crave when they are in far-off countries.

This book offers 45 recipes that you will want to add to your culinary repertoire no matter what your home region. They are a broad-based selection of recipes so there is sure to be something to please every palate. Dal Makhni is perhaps the most celebrated both in India and overseas where it has become a restaurant speciality, although seldom cooked in an authentic style. Maharashtrian Kadhi is a traditional dish and represents India’s culinary diversity in a most delicious way.

All these dals and kadhis are tempting but as with life in general there are firsts among equals and I have picked a few that are particularly tempting. Rajasthani Baati ki Dal is made with split green gram (dhuli moong dal) and Bengal gram (chana dal) and the resulting dal is served with traditional baked balls of dough.

Bhindi ni Kadhi is bound to be on my list as I love ladies’ fingers (bhinda/ bhindi). This is a soupy combination of yogurt and gram flour (besan) flavoured with spices. The vegetables remain a little crisp giving the kadhi an interesting texture.

Dal Hari Bhari contains spinach and fenugreek leaves, onions and spices, and Sanjeev uses it to tempt those who would not normally enjoy green vegetables. This would be an easy meal when served just with rice.

Dal and Kadhi is an Aladdin’s cave of ideas for quick, tasty and healthy dishes. One expects lovely books from Sanjeev Kapoor and this is another in that collection that never disappoints. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to enjoy good food. This book will show you the way in fine flavourful fashion.


Dal and Kadhi
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-415-1
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Noodles Every Day

To the untutored this might seem an uninspiring proposition, but it’s perfectly possible to eat noodles every day and perhaps even several times a day without feeling as though it’s an endurance test.Noodles Every Day

Corinne Trang is a US based author, radio and TV broadcaster on the subject of Asian food. She is a well respected authority on foods from China and Southeast Asia and has been described as the “Julia Child of Asian Cuisine” by the Washington Post and me. Corinne has penned numerous books and has won a raft of awards - her very first won Best Asian Cuisine Book in the World at the World Cookbook Fair. Not too shabby!

Corinne has a passion for food and not just Asian food (a casual conversation with this lady about anything from bread to breakfast will have you drooling). Her background, a combination of French and Chinese, equips her very well to take her place in the culinary arena of both East and West.

Noodles Every Day is an attractive volume with marvellous photographs by Maura McEvoy. It’s more than a cookbook – this is an encyclopaedia of all things noodley. Every possible variety of noodle is considered and a wealth of recipes is offered. This is the original fast food and it’s both healthy and sustaining which is more than can be said for most of the popular western alternatives.

Every noodle type has its recipes but you can mix and match to suit your own taste. The five noodle categories are Wheat, Egg, Buckwheat, Rice and Cellophane but there is an additional chapter which covers Buns, Dumplings, and Spring Rolls. Although these are not noodles they do fall under the “snack” umbrella as do some of the noodle dishes.

Corinne introduces you to stock making and some typical Asian condiments, as well as basic ingredients. You will have all you need to be ever ready, with the addition of a few fresh items, for a quick but impressive meal... and fast!

Wheat Noodles with Spicy Ground Pork is a Szechuan classic. Dishes from this region are prized for their robust flavours and this one is no exception although the stir-fried Napa cabbage (Chinese Leaves) adds sweetness. Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Beef and Broccoli is another meat and vegetable recipe and a worldwide restaurant favourite but it’s easy to make at home. It’s flavourful, rich and comforting.

One of the most striking recipes in Noodles Every Day is that for Egg Noodle Soup with Five-spice Duck. This would make a smart dinner party dish with its succulent, aromatic meat and the soup served on the side. For sheer luxury though, Crab-flavoured Noodles with Velvety Crab Sauce and Green Peas takes some beating. It’s a simple recipe but has a cheffy quality about it. The crab-flavoured noodles can be found in larger Chinese food stores but if you can’t get hold of them you can substitute regular thin egg noodles.

Noodles Every Day is an instructive and inspiring book. It’s thoughtfully written with the western cook in mind but Corinne Trang is never pedestrian in her choice of recipes. This isn’t just another Asian cookbook but rather a vehicle which will help you to appreciate all the subtle flavours and textures that Asian food has to offer. Noodles Every Day will surely be another award winner.


Noodles Every Day
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95 US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6143-4
mostly food journal

Great Party Dips

Isn’t there something comforting about a dip? They are uniquely versatile, either being the focus of aGreat Party Dips solitary evening alone (you, the TV, a dip and dippers) or being classy dishes on a special buffet table (for dozens of well-dressed guests with differing tastes), and all events in between. There are few foods that can so successfully encompass the informal and the grand.

The author, Peggy Fallon, has eight or so cookbooks to her credit and has contributed to dozens more as a recipe developer and tester. She has taught at various cooking schools and has run her own catering company. Peggy’s books have always been practical and attractive, and Great Party Dips is no exception. The photography by Alexandra Grablewski is scrumptious.

There are 60 dips listed here that cover the whole of dipdom and indeed dipperdom. Cool Dips and Spreads, Salsas and Such, Warm Dips and Spreads, and Dependable Dunkers are the chapter titles and those chapters offer far more than mayo with curry and ketchup and a dry cracker.

Peggy has included some of the best classic dips like Potted Shrimp (OK, so I am British and bound to give this delight a plug), and Bagna Cauda (perhaps the most celebrated of Italian dips which always adds an air of sophistication to a gathering), but there is so much that is new and inventive.

Chicken Liver Pate with Marsala and Capers is a great improvement on shop-bought pate. If you could find one of this quality in a fine deli then its price would give you a fit. It’s an Italian-inspired recipe and has the addition of anchovy paste. It makes all the difference to the recipe but does not impart any kind of fishy taste. It’s there for the rich salty tang and is an essential ingredient.

Smoked salmon in any style is luxurious and Peggy has a Smoked Salmon Spread with Scotch Whisky. It couldn’t be easier to make, has few ingredients and you won’t have to buy the most expensive slices of salmon. A classy spread for a reasonable price.

It’s not often that I prefer a contemporary recipe over the original, but Great Party Dips has Brie en Croute which is quite marvellous in its form and simplicity. Traditional Brie en Croute has pastry as the housing for the cheese but Peggy’s version uses a small hollowed loaf of bread, which is more practical and less of a fiddle than sheets of floppy pastry. Her garnishes of apricot jam and Amaretto or Brandy (I would go for Amaretto as it marries so well with apricots) elevate this into a real centre-piece.

Great Party Dips is a book to buy and use. It has something for everyone and for every occasion. It’s a must for anyone who loves entertaining a crowd but needs to keep an eye on the pennies. The choice of dips and spreads runs from the rustic to the regal and from trendy to traditional. A real winner and great value for money.


Great Party Dips
Author: Peggy Fallon
Published by: Wiley
Price: £11.99, $16.95 US
ISBN 978-0-470-23978-0
mostly food journal

World Vegetarian Classics

This is an amazing work of international, classic and delicious food and it happens to be vegetarian. ThereWorld Vegetarian Classics are 200 recipes in World Vegetarian Classics which have been tailored to the needs of the western home cook. It’s more than just a cookbook though. This is an archive of some of the best vegetarian food the world has to offer.

The author, Celia Brooks Brown, is a favourite face on food TV in Britain. She has an infectious enthusiasm for her subject and has done much to dispel the myth that vegetarian food is necessarily bland, beige and boring. Celia is an attractive American who has made her home in London and takes full advantage of the array of ethnic and fresh foods on offer. She also has a regular column in The Times which allows her to share her adventures of working an allotment.

This large-format volume has photography by Gus Filgate who must be one of the most respected food photographers around. The book is further enhanced by the contributions of some of the foremost authorities on specific cuisines. This reads like a Who’s Who of the wise and worthy of the food world. Marlena Spieler has over 50 cookbooks to her credit and many of them award winners. She kicks off the North American and Canada chapter with her view on regional food history and some charming memories. Sri Owen is the expert for Southeast Asian cuisine and she is probably the undisputed expert on the subject. Each region has its own culinary giant to add weight to this already notable cookbook.

Celia has chosen recipes that are authentically vegetarian. That is to say that they are not meatless versions of non-vegetarian dishes (a bacon sandwich without the bacon somehow just doesn’t work). These are recipes that started as vegetarian and have remained that way. Every region has its traditional specialities that might now be either internationally celebrated, like for instance Spanakopita (Greek spinach pie with feta cheese), or might remain culinary secrets such as Arshda Madnov (macaroni baked in yogurt with feta cheese and vegetables) from Armenia.

World Vegetarian Classics has many lovely dishes but my favourites would include Kai Look Koie (Son-in-Law Eggs) from Thailand which is so simple but stunning nonetheless, Khagina (Egg Torte) from Afghanistan which is a fresh take on Spanish Omelette, and Akara with Pilipili (Bean Cakes with Chilli Sauce) from Nigeria.

I am not a vegetarian although I choose to eat very little meat and almost no red meat. I do, on the other hand, eat and enjoy all vegetables apart from Brussels sprouts which I hope never to invite across my threshold. I find World Vegetarian Classics to have great appeal even for carnivores. You won’t be eating these dishes because they are good for you (although they are) but because they are always inspiring, often exotic, and all are thoroughly delicious.

World Vegetarian Classics
Author: Celia Brooks Brown
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-849-1
mostly food journal

Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook

I have wanted to review this book for ages. Good Housekeeping have a marvellous range of books and I’ll beGood Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook reviewing more in future but the Step-by-Step cookbook is rather special. I already have the Good Housekeeping Cooking Compendium which was first published in 1952 with reprints till 1959. That book with its thousands of black and white photographs (with a few daring colour shots of iced cakes) held such fascination for me that it was my regular Sunday morning “reading” matter between the ages of three and ten when we finally bought a TV that worked.

Perhaps it was leafing through hundreds of recipes with their associated step-by-step photographic instructions that encouraged me to believe that I too could cook...when I was tall enough to reach the chopping block. None of us are born cooks so a good confidence-boosting recipe book is essential (unless you were fortunate enough to have a mum, auntie or gran to teach you the basics and a few family recipes).

Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook boasts 650 easy-to-follow techniques and 400 triple-tested recipes, and those recipes are contemporary and for modern living. The Good Housekeeping Institute was set up in 1924 and the world has changed since then. We have access to a broader spectrum of foods; we have kitchen gadgets unheard of by our great grandmothers who would probably consider themselves lazy if they sat down to peel potatoes. We expect to spend less time in the kitchen but we want to present healthy and delicious meals.

Each chapter covers a food topic, starting with Stocks and Soups and progressing through Fish, Meat, Vegetables to Cakes and Preserves and everything in between. There are sections on Herbs and Spices, Freezing and Drying, Microwaves and information about equipment which you might find interesting should you be setting up your first kitchen.

The Meat and Poultry chapters have some of the best butchery illustrations I have seen. The Fruit and Nuts chapter has everything from hulling strawberries to cracking coconuts. Sweet and Savoury Breads chapter offers advice on hand-made breads and also on using a bread machine. For the more adventurous and those with a sweet tooth there is comprehensive information on working with sugar, and the Chocolate pages are equally detailed.

So, we have discussed the 650 techniques and now we can enjoy the food! The recipes are broad-based and include some classics and some ethnic dishes. This isn’t a themed cookbook so its appeal will be universal but that’s not a hard status to achieve when there are 400 recipes to choose from.

I have quite a few favourites from this book and it has taken me as much time to reduce the list to manageable proportions as it did to select the dishes in the first place. Rabbit Casserole with Prunes (don’t pull that face, try it and you’ll love it), Chilli Onions with Goat’s Cheese (a lovely summer starter or light lunch), Easy Pear and Toffee Tarte Tatin (it's easy!), Garlic Cheese Pizza (home-made pizza is always a winner)... and I could go on!

Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook is an ideal wedding present, house-warming gift or subtle hint to leave home (they will be fine armed with this volume). I am just as impressed by the photographic instruction as I expected and perhaps more impressed by the recipes than I had anticipated. Amazing value for money.


Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook
Author: Good Housekeeping Institute
Published by: Collins and Brown – Anova
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-84340-413-2
mostly food journal

The Blue Elephant Cookbook

This must surely be the most celebrated of Thai restaurant empires. It would be diminishing the class andThe Blue Elephant Cookbook the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and thoroughly impressive.

The Blue Elephant has a fine reputation wherever you might find it. and the cookbook now allows its followers to replicate its dishes in their home kitchens. Those who have never had the pleasure of visiting a Blue Elephant will soon appreciate the attraction.

Thai food in general has gained worldwide popularity over the past decade. More of us have the opportunity to travel to Thailand and also to visit Thai restaurants in our home countries, and we want to try those dishes for ourselves. The Blue Elephant Cookbook will offer you a marvelous array of recipes that represent the very essence of Thai food with all its vibrant flavours.

Blue Elephant recipes are authentic, attractive and tempting. They are not over-taxing for the competent home cook, and the ingredients are all availiable either from your favourite supermarket’s Asian food aisle, from a specialist Thai food store or by mail order via the internet. You’ll not only learn how to make soups, starters, salads, main dishes and desserts but also curry pastes and sauces.

Thai Fish Cakes will be instantly recognised by travellers returning from sun-kissed Thai resorts. They are delicately soft with a crunch supplied by a garnish of peanuts and refreshing lettuce. Serve this with Cucumber Sauce (recipe in this book) and you have a delicious snack or light lunch, or combine with other dishes as part of a Thai buffet.

Stir-Fried Seafood with Garlic and Peppercorns (Seafood Krathiam Prik Thai) is elegant and flavourful and would be an ideal “special” meal. OK, the prawns, scallops and crab are not cheap but this recipe makes the best of that seafood, and the finished result is stunning. The base is Blue Elephant Special Sauce which you can easily make and freeze for future use.

Tuk’s Duck Salad (Laab Ped) is a dish devised by the aforementioned Tuk who is a chef at the Blue Elephant in London. The duck is grilled and flavoured with a spice paste and garnished with fried shallots, chillies, fresh coriander and salad. A simple dish to prepare but it has great impact.

The Blue Elephant Cookbook is a jewel of a volume and definitely among my favourite Thai cookbooks. It will be snapped up by lovers of classic Thai food as well as those who are regular diners at The Blue Elephant restaurants. A lovely book.


The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Author: Chefs of Blue Elephant.
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-303-8
mostly food journal

Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria

We chose a Tuesday evening to visit this little corner of Clapham, and it had all the makings of anDonna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria uninspiring event. The weather was cold and dull (this is England in spring so what do you expect) and the restaurants we passed along the way were mostly devoid of clients. Those eateries that had signs of life were peopled by a couple of paying customers (placed prominently by windows or doors) or sadder still, by bored waiting staff who seemed set for a long and fruitless night. What would our destination hold in store?

Donna Margherita was buzzing! It was evident that this restaurant had been discovered by the regular Jacks and Jills of Lavender Hill and they are making good use of it. There seemed to be regulars who were warmly greeted by Enrico, the co-owner, as well as a table of some dozen or so 30-somethings. This was looking good! A restaurant with few empty tables in the chill of a financial crisis speaks for itself and the covered outside area (including a heater, thank goodness) suggests that this spot is expected to be popular all summer.

This isn’t a huge impersonal restaurant but one rather suggesting a rustic sitting-room, but without the manufactured rusticity of so many Italian establishments. This was a cosy, brick walled haven from the traffic of Clapham and Battersea. The sideboard heaving with antipasti and the unpretentious wood tables add to the appeal.

The menu was a surprise. It’s extensive and very well priced. There is an additional weekly Specials menu which offers tempting and reasonable food, and a wine list that seemed rather good value with wine by the glass on several of those listed. Pricey wine is so often the pitfall of eating out, but not so here.

We ordered a selection of the aforementioned antipasti, along with some bread baked in the wood-fired oven, fruity olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and marinated olives. The servings are large here and attractively presented. There were the traditional favourites but my guest particularly enjoyed the baked aubergine with mozzarella, and the deep fried courgette was a triumph. (I now have the recipe but you will have to visit the restaurant if you want to discover the simple secret of these crisp and flavourful vegetables.)

Pizza promises so much but so often delivers so little, but it’s a speciality here and I’ll go as far as to say it’s the best I have had in ages. We chose the simple Margherita which was light and delicate with a thin crust. The underside had the distinctive brown spots of a perfect bake and the topping of tomato and cheese was ample but didn’t reduce the base to a soggy mess. There are 18 or so other pizzas to choose from including classic pizzas like Quattro Formaggi (Four Cheese), Romana (anchovies, olives, capers) and Marinara (tomato, olive oil, oregano and garlic).

The restaurant menu is broad-based, offering pasta, risotto, meat and fish. We were tempted by the mixed shellfish and octopus in a delicious and rich broth. Octopus is often tough and unappetising but the chef of Donna Margherita knows what he is doing. It was tender and married well with the king prawns, clams and mussels. O’pignatiello, the romantic-sounding name for this dish, was served with small rounds of baked pizza dough although we resorted to dipping bread into the bowl to soak up the juices that we were loath to leave. This should be the restaurant “signature dish” and is amazingly good value for money at around £13.00 per head.

You might not make it to dessert (the portions are generous) but there are treats in store. Try Zuccotto al Cioccolato Bianco (£4.00): homemade sponge cake filled with chocolate ice cream topped with white chocolate. There is a dark chocolate version filled with vanilla ice cream which is equally as good. Affogato al Caffe (£4.00) is vanilla ice cream with espresso coffee. This is a simple dessert but it always seems sophisticated.

Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria offers the real wood-fire oven experience. It doesn’t have to try to be authentic, it just is authentic. The cognoscenti (those in the know) already make this a popular eatery and I doubt that they will thank me for publicising their secret slice of Naples. I’ll return but I might make a reservation next time. Donna Margherita is no longer a secret!


Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria
183 Lavender Hill
London SW11 5TE
020 7228 2660
mostly food journal

Royal Hyderabadi Cooking

This is a collaboration between two of India’s finest sons of the culinary arts. If you have not heard ofRoyal Hyderabadi Cooking Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV) then you must have been living under a rock with no access either to cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.

But what is Hyderabadi cooking? It will be a mystery to most Westerners, who are very unlikely to have encountered it, and it is revered by Indians, who might also have trouble tracking down authentic dishes. It’s truly courtly, special and grand but at least this volume makes those dishes more accessible to the home cook... and what home cooking that would be!

Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is an elegantly presented volume with stylish photography by Bharat Bhirangi illustrating every recipe. The book has a modern feel with the food being the rich focus in a minimalist setting. Although the ingredients look a lengthy list for some dishes, it’s mostly spices that are commonly found in the domestic larder.

Apart from being a striking cookbook, Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is also something of an archive for a style of food preparation that is disappearing. The authors have been lucky enough to recruit the indispensible aid of two national culinary treasures who have lifetimes of expertise. Begum Mumtaz Khan is considered a living legend and is a member of the Jagirdhar families of the last Nizam, and has actually tasted the food from the Royal kitchens. She has conducted cooking classes and hosted Hyderabadi food festivals.

Ustad Habib Pasha has a passion for Hyderabadi food and a wealth of experience. He has worked in Hyderabad’s most famous restaurants and has been generous to our authors with his knowledge, revealing the secrets of aromatic blends of herbs that help to give this cuisine its distinctive flavour.

There are so many striking recipes to discover here but I have a few favourites. Murtabuk is a layered stack of chapattis with a filling of minced chicken, eggs and spices and is served in wedges as you would a savoury birthday cake. It was Begum Mumtaz Khan who taught the authors how to cook this to perfection.

Thikri Ki Dal is a delicious and comforting dal which contains amongst the spices, onions and ghee... 2 three-inch pieces of earthenware! The thikri are heated till red hot and then plunged into the food. They are removed before serving to avoid damage to either guest or crockery. This method is said to impart a distinctive and earthy flavour. Truly unique.

Double Ka Meetha is a sweet and syrupy dessert that would be a fitting end to a Royal Hyderabadi meal. It’s a confection of bread, nuts, cream and saffron and simple to make. I wouldn’t reserve this for just Hyderabadi meals, this would be welcomed anytime by those with a sweet tooth.

The title suggests something sumptuous and rich and that is just what this food is all about. Royal Hyderabadi Cooking presents recipes that are regal and festive but accessible to the home cook. Amazing!

Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor and Harpal Singh Sokhi
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4
mostly food journal

Home Baked

There are few things in life that are predictable. Death, taxes, bad weather at weekends, a ladder in yourHome Baked tights when you’re going out to dinner, and the quality of Grub Street books. They have developed the knack of selecting the most appealing of volumes to republish. Home Baked by George and Cecilia Scurfield is another in that list.

Home Baked was originally published in 1956, and Home-Made Cakes and Biscuits in 1964. Here we have both books combined. Yes, they are a good few years old but read a few recipes and you’ll understand why the great Elizabeth David thought so highly of these books. The baked goods are international and traditional and will be as welcome today as they were 50 years ago.

George and Cecilia were not born bakers but were driven to bread baking. They found commercially produced loaves to be lacking in both taste and texture. Perhaps the quality of shop-bought bread has improved somewhat over the past half century but there is still nothing to beat your own bread. It’s a myth (probably promoted by bread manufacturers) that it takes hours of your time to make. Nonsense! A bit of mixing, 10 minutes of therapeutic kneading, 5 minutes of artistic shaping and half an hour of lustful longing as you wait for your masterpiece to cool. 20 minutes of your effort and you have something of which to be proud.

There is everything in the bread-making chapter that a novice baker might need. Oven temperatures, shaping and glazing are all covered. There are basic bread recipes and then an array of English Tea Breads. These are the bedrock of old-fashioned teatime along with Tea Cakes such as the celebrated Sally Lunn. My vote goes, however, to the Malt Bread. This is a truly exceptional and moist confection which lists black treacle and malt extract amongst its ingredients, and it keeps well...if you can resist eating the whole loaf in one sitting.

The Coffee Breads from Abroad collection offers amongst others, Croissants, Danish Pastry, Brioche, Streusel Cake, and Swedish Coffee Bread (contains no coffee, you eat it with a cup of coffee). German Apple Cake (Apfelkuchen) is well worth trying: you are unlikely to find this in shops unless you are lucky enough to live near a continental or Jewish bakery. This is a sweet cross between a bread and a cake.

But there is more! Next the Cakes and Biscuits section tempts us with more delights which would constitute a fine teatime spread. There are sponge cakes, fruit cakes, Christmas cakes and chocolate cakes, and an assortment of pastries. My choice for a traditional selection would be Walnut Cake and Gingerbread (sticky and delicious).

Biscuits (or cookies for my American readers) are also an essential at teatime...or anytime. Shortbread is so simple to make and the joy of paying a fraction of the price of shop-bought will add to the experience. Orange Jumbles are tangy little treats which have a taste of summer and I think they go wonderfully well with a glass of something sparkling.

Home Baked is simple delight and temptation. Takes me back to Sunday tea, Lyon’s Corner House and even cooking lessons with Mrs. Kenerly (who said I would never make a cook!). I’ll use these recipes often and you can pay no higher compliment to a cookbook.


Home Baked
Author: George and Cecilia Scurfield
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-37-9
mostly food journal

Scent of the Monsoon Winds

Just the title evokes visions of hot steamy nights with the exotic (and for me exciting) aroma of dampScent of the Monsoon Winds vegetation and soil. The atmosphere that assures one of tempting and flavourful food.

Michal Haines has had a warm relationship with spices for all of her life. Her Chinese grandfather, Stan (you know that any Chinese grandfather called Stan would be a positive influence) left her with memories of fine food and a treasured meat cleaver. Michal has worked extensively in the New Zealand food industry, running gourmet food stores around Auckland.

Scent of the Monsoon Winds is a multi-ethnic cookbook with great shelf appeal. Michal offers an introduction to spices and their uses in the five main spice-dependant cuisines, and she suggests a list of spices that will allow you to prepare those dishes. There is nothing much that will demand a vacation to the Spice Islands (although it’s a good excuse). You’ll find it all in your regular supermarket, or mail order if you live on a remote hilltop.

The chapter headings are intriguing: Portable Feasts, Spiced Nights, Winter Blues and Kingly Condiments. The recipes are also a unique bunch, encompassing some celebrated dishes such as Indonesian Chicken Rampah and Cheese Sticks, but there is a lot here that will be new to many readers. Even an impressive book collection would not provide you with Michal’s own family recipes, which she shares here.

Scent of the Monsoon Winds offers modern versions of some classic dishes such as Drunken Chicken. This is a tangy but light dish with a kick from ginger, Szechwan peppercorns, star anise and cassia. Arabian White Coffee Cream will transport you to the souk: this is a sophisticated but simple dessert and truly a bit different.

Hot Mezze Hummus is a speciality of the mountains of Eastern Turkey and is a radical departure from the ubiquitous tepid hummus that we recognise from deli counters and Middle Eastern restaurants. This recipe has additional flavours and textures and is altogether more complex, although very simple to prepare.

If you are looking for a quick meal with impact then you could be turning to Vietnamese Dinner Noodles. There are quite a few ingredients but don’t be put off - this is cooking at its basic best. Pirate Chicken has plenty of punchy panache with Jerk Paste supplying the heat. It’s another fast meal but impressive nevertheless.

If Scent of the Monsoon Winds has a signature dish then it is, for me at least, Honey Tamarind Roast Duck. This is a flavourful and succulent recipe which avoids the perennial problem of dry meat. It all has to do with the cooking method, and this roast duck isn’t roasted but rather simmered. This is going to be a new classic.

Scent of the Monsoon Winds is an attractive volume of charm and innovation. It will be enjoyed by spice lovers who don’t have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We will, I hope, hear more from Michal Haines.


Scent of the Monsoon Winds
Author: Michal Haines
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-86966-211-0

mostly food journal

An Omelette and a Glass of Wine

I review books by many new authors, many smart young foodies and quite a few old stagers, who eachAn Omelette and a Glass of Wine have lots to offer the culinary opus. Elizabeth David is, depending on your viewpoint, either a shining star in a dazzling firmament or a treasure island in the sea of mediocrity.

It’s true that Elizabeth David has long (we are talking decades) been quoted and revered by the worthy and wise of the food industry. She is considered the Grande Dame of British cooking... or more accurately the British Queen of (not necessarily British) cooking. She wasn’t a Mrs. Beeton (too racy) or a Delia Smith (more a wordsmith) but she holds a place of high esteem in the mind of anyone who knows a fig about cooking.

An Omelette and a Glass of Wine is a book to dip into like a fine stockpot. It’s a book of collected articles and associated recipes that show the skill of this woman to great advantage. They were written between 1955 and 1984 for publications as diverse as Gourmet magazine and The Spectator. Each chapter holds a little gem of observation and wry humour. Yes, the food landscape has changed, both in Britain and in France, but this volume is still relevant and absorbing.

The Omelette immortalised in these pages is one cooked in the restaurant Molière (this is Elizabeth David so it wouldn’t be a bacon buttie in The Dog and Duck). She writes: “... Physically and emotionally worn to tatters by the pandemonium and splendour of the Avignon market, tottering under the weight of provisions we had bought and agonizing at the thought of all the glorious things which we hadn’t or couldn’t, we would make at last for the restaurant Molière to be rested and restored.” Then follows the recipe for a simple but delectable omelette. Not fussy and over-garnished but perfect in form and flavour.

An Omelette and a Glass of Wine will never be considered passé. It has an abundance of recipes for food lovers who want to cook, and has a wealth of anecdotes for cooks who want to dream. It’s a pleasure to read and reread, and a must for wanabe food writers.


An Omelette and a Glass of Wine
Author: Elizabeth David
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-35-5
mostly food journal

Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook

You should expect something special when you are presented with a Sanjeev Kapoor cookbook. Low CalorieLow Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an exotic diet trend.

Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV. It’s been airing since 1993 and its 600th episode is now just a memory. He has won several awards such as the Best Executive Chef of India Award and the Mercury Gold Award at Geneva, which has earned this man international as well as home-grown respect.

Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is just one of many cookbooks from this charming, handsome and charismatic man. Each book is welcomed by an adoring audience who have been impressed by the author’s skill on the small screen. It’s said that Sanjeev never repeats a recipe and will not need to for several decades; such is his volume of work.

Low calorie carnivorous and low calorie vegetarian recipes have often seemed to fall into one of two categories: boring or boring with vegetables. But Sanjeev’s book will strike the right chord with many readers who want a low calorie diet that offers food with taste and texture. If you don’t enjoy the food that does you good then you will fall back into the same old unhealthy eating habits which got you into your chubby mess to start with.

Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is about flavour, and Sanjeev has a collection of recipes that will tempt even those with no health or weight issues. This is good food with intriguing combinations of spices and fresh ingredients. There are Nutrition Information charts with each recipe to enable the home cook to make the best choices to achieve a balanced diet.

The recipes are broad-based and you don’t have to be a lover of traditional Indian food to appreciate the dishes. Sanjeev has French onion soup but his version raises the bar with French Onion and Garlic Soup. Spicy Pineapple Boat is light and refreshing but with a little kick from green chillies. For those who want a cool and summery salad then Minted Mushrooms should fit the bill. This is a dish of mushrooms, tomato, cucumber, mint leaves and a dressing of low fat yogurt, and the addition of lemon juice provides a tang.

However delicious the European-inspired dishes might be, most of us will be looking for that unmistakable taste of the subcontinent and it’s here in glorious profusion. Spinach and Cabbage Parantha is a flatbread with aromatic cardamom and spicy red chilli powder to complement the vegetables incorporated into the dough.

Desserts are not forgotten. Kesari Phirni is a lovely dessert of Pistachio nuts perfumed with saffron and cardamom. The sweetness comes from a sugar substitute such as Equal or Splenda so you can indulge with no guilt.

Do I have a favourite recipe? Well, you know I do and its Mushroom Dum Biryani. This is a rice dish made with the traditional method but have no fear, it’s not difficult and the results will impress both Western and Asian friends. I’ll make this dish often, not because I have a low calorie diet (although perhaps I should) but because it’s delicious and simple.

A Western cook will have no problem finding the spices in local supermarkets or from one of the many online Asian stores. The cooking techniques are not taxing and you don’t have to take a trip to Mumbai to kit out your new Asian kitchen. This is a fascinating book with recipes that will encourage you to make, eat and enjoy flavourful and healthful meals.

Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is the first of Sanjeev Kapoor's books that I have had the pleasure to review, and there are more to follow. This volume is bound to be a success with readers from every continent.


Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00, £11.69, $25.00US
ISBN 978-81-7154-888-0
mostly food journal

Pie – A Global History

Well, dear reader, if you are a regular here (and why wouldn’t you be?) you will know of my warm and closePie - A Global History relationship with pies. It’s no surprise therefore that I am delighted to have in my warm and still-pie-crumbed hand a book which is filled with nothing but pie.

Janet Clarkson is the author of this fine little tome and she is a GP and lecturer in the School of Medicine at the University of Queensland, Australia. That might give the impression that pies are dodgy and dangerous things to eat! Janet has a passion for food history and she writes often on that subject... and pies are safe to eat, at least these days.

I say “these days” because pies have not always been the diverse and delicious delights that we find today. They originated out of necessity and were the forerunner of the fridge. That is to say they were one of the first food preservers and the crust was of industrial and unbreakable quality that was not intended to be eaten by gentlefolk. (Although I suspect a slab of anything soaked with cooking juices might have been tempting to the lower orders.)

Pie is one of the few culinary triumphs to have emanated from Britain. Its traditions have spread throughout its colonies and are now adapted as national specialities in the USA (fruit pies), in Australia (meat pies in mushy peas), and New Zealand (mutton pies). They have been the staple of both rich and poor and they have travelled well.

Pie – A Global History is one of a series of food history books from Reaktion. Each one has a different author and covers a different food but they all have the same high standard of presentation and content. This, like the others, is not a recipe book (although there are several) but it quite definitely is a book that is fascinating for both domestic foodies and food academics. It’s thoroughly well researched and Janet has a humorous and accessible style. The illustrations are quite charming and range from medieval sketches to stills from the 2007 film of Sweeny Todd, the story of which is enough to turn anyone from the pie path.

I expected this book to be a good read and it does not disappoint. It would be a great gift for any lover of food, food history or history in general. Pie – A Global History is an attractive volume and a worthwhile addition to any serious book collection.


Pie – A Global History
Author: Janet Clarkson
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-425-0
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Spanish Cooking

Pepita Aris is an authority on Spanish cooking, both traditional and the lesser known regional dishes. SheSpanish Cooking lived in Spain for many years, writes for magazines and newspapers including Bon Appétit, and she is the founder editor of Taste as well as a contributor to the British edition of Larousse Gastronomique. Pepita has made frequent TV and radio appearances to promote Spanish foods and cooking.

There are 70 or so recipes between the covers of Spanish Cooking, each one supported by a wealth of photographs. This is the style of book that, sadly, I see infrequently. It has step-by-step photographs to give confidence to the debutant cook, as did the old-fashioned 1950s good homemaking (you know the ones I mean) cookbooks. We all love big glossy full-colour shots of exotic cities or ancient urns spilling Provencal lavender, but we equally need some recipe books to get us launched into a life of confident and enthusiastic cooking. This very volume could be your launch pad for Spanish cooking.

Having said how much I love the recipe photography, I should tell you that there are indeed city shots, folkloric dancers, some sheep and a cow, but they are confined to the fascinating travelogue section at the start of the book. These pages will get you in the mood for some delicious Spanish food. The ingredients for those dishes and even the traditional earthenware casseroles to serve them in (your next Spanish holiday souvenirs, and more practical than a straw donkey) are all detailed.

But on to the recipes. They are a vibrant collection of familiar favourites often found in Spanish restaurants outside Spain, and some lesser known ones that might be more often found in regional Spanish homes. Arroz con Pollo is a typical dish of rice, chicken and tomatoes but the addition of ham and chorizo add that unmistakable flavour of the peninsula. There are versions of this dish in restaurants all over the world along with the ubiquitous Seafood Paella, but be assured that these home-made examples will be more easily recognised by a real Spaniard than would those restaurant standards.

Fabada is a regional speciality from the mountains of Asturias on the Northern coast of Spain. This is a hearty stew of sausages and beans with a hint of saffron and paprika. This isn’t beach-hugging tourist fare. This is authentic Spanish food with richness and depth of flavour that is appropriate for cold days. Just a nice glass of Rioja and some crusty bread is all you’ll need to accompany this dish.

There is a little dessert of which I am fond and I am delighted to see the recipe here. It’s Leche Frita, and Pepita suggests it with a Black Fruit Sauce. The literal translation is fried milk but they are in fact deep fried custard with a crunchy breadcrumb coating, and a delicate flavour of cinnamon.

Spanish Cooking is one of the best Spanish recipe books that this reviewer has seen in ages. It’s practical and well written and has a well chosen selection of dishes. None of them are difficult to make but all of them have the air of authenticity. There are recipes that suit every season ad every taste. Plenty for vegetarians and fish lovers and the ingredients are easy to come by. This would be an ideal book for those who are searching for a hand-holding Spanish cookbook. It’s amazing value for money.


Spanish Cooking
Author: Pepita Aris
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-290-4
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Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights

The Miss Dahl mentioned is none other than Sophie Dahl who, I must confess, I had never heard of (I don’tMiss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights move in the right circles). But you find me here writing a review of a book that has been both well written and which I have found to be thoroughly entertaining.

Sophie started her working life as a model although she has ventured into the world of waitressing and nannying. She has spent her life dodging about the world and has lived in both London and New York, and has had a love affair with food wherever she has roamed. A food-loving model? Could this be true?

Sophie is, these days, a svelte young woman with a pretty smile but she graced the catwalk as a well-upholstered mannequin with a curvaceous figure the like of which had seldom been seen in the fashion industry. A bout of ill health led Sophie to re-evaluate her relationship with food and reconsider how she wanted to eat and live. This classy book is the result of revisiting favourite dishes that are both sustaining and delicious.

The recipes here are simple, sensible and mouth-watering. This is a seasonal cookbook with recipes for breakfast, lunch and suppers, with some puds thrown in for good measure. All the dishes have one thing in common and that’s comfort.

Breakfast is well represented in Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights. Poached Eggs on Portobello Mushrooms with Goat’s Cheese is a typical example of Sophie’s style. The egg yolk makes a rich and silky sauce. This is in Autumn Breakfasts but it would work equally well as a light lunch. Pear and Ginger Muffins are offered as a sweet temptation for a winter breakfast but would go well with a nice cup of tea on a cold afternoon.

The star of the volume must be Coconut Curry with Prawns. This is a Thai-inspired curry of the store cupboard variety but is no worse for that. It doesn’t demand a trip to an ethnic supermarket. The most exotic ingredient is green chilli and that isn’t hard to come by these days.

Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights is an attractive volume filled with tempting dishes, some of which you might be familiar with and others are Sophie originals. Don’t be tempted to just dive into the recipes. This book is also something of an autobiography which shows the lady to be intelligent, witty and down to earth. She has been a model but she is a novelist and now a food writer with a creditable first book under her belt. Hope we hear more from her in future.


Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights
Author: Sophie Dahl
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726117-8
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Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking

I love Japanese food but seldom have I been offered anything other than tempura and sushi. Now, don’t getDonburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking me wrong, I could eat both those lovely dishes every day but there is more to Japanese food than raw fish and battered vegetables. There is Donburi!

What exactly is this donburi? It’s all about rice. Doesn’t sound very interesting, does it? Top that rice with meat and/or vegetables and perhaps a few noodles and often egg, cooked or not. Those garnishes complement the rice which is held in such high esteem by the Japanese.

The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon displayed his flair for food. His motto has always been “easy yet delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on television where he represented the new generation of cooks who wanted taste and texture in no time.

I am a food writer and researcher and frequent eater, and I had oft encountered recipes for Donburi but it was Toronto (no, not Tokyo) that gave me an opportunity to try these tempting dishes for the first time. I chose a chicken donburi which arrived with a sunny egg yolk nestling on top of vegetables and tender meat. I have been searching for such donburi perfection since then.

At last my menu scanning is over and I have help at hand in the guise of Donburi Mania, which houses between its covers 70 recipes for meals that are quick, delicious and healthy. You’ll have dinner ready in the time it takes to cook rice. You can use last night’s leftovers with some fresh vegetables for crunch. It couldn’t be simpler. No exotic equipment needed and more importantly...no special skills.

It’s been difficult for me to select a few recipes to represent donburi. All of Kentaro’s dishes are appealing and encompass a wide range of ingredients. There is plenty here for a vegetarian and for fish lovers but the author will not expect you to follow his ideas meticulously. Donburi is about casual and modern eating so make a few from this book and then invent your own.

Stewed Pork Donburi makes use of cheaper cuts of meat. This recipe is more time-consuming than others as the meat needs to simmer for an hour or so. You don’t have to sit and watch the pork cooking so it hardly constitutes as slaving over a hot stove. The end result of your foreplanning will be a silky and soft preparation that will become a firm favourite. It’s real comfort food that will have you finding excuses to make it.

Chicken Sukiyaki Donburi reminds me of my first encounter. You can use last night’s leftover Sukiyaki (or cook chicken in a sweet soy sauce) so you’ll have a smart meal in less than 20 minutes. The egg yolk might be alarming for the uninitiated but it forms a creamy coating which is rich and luxurious. Be brave.

Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking is the most comprehensive book around covering just this unique and flavourful dish. I’ll be eating my way through each of Kentaro Kobayashi’s tempting recipes.


Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc.
Price: £9.99, $14.95US
ISBN-13: 978-1934287491
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The Mezze Cookbook

The author, Maria Khalifé, has been made a household name in the Middle East thanks to her Soufra DaimehThe Mezze Cookbook TV cooking show. Soufra Daimeh has a huge following with more than 2000 episodes being aired on major TV networks in Lebanon and Arab countries since it started in 1996. Maria also opened the first private cooking school in Lebanon. Who better to present a book of delicious mezze dishes!

Mezze, along with tapas and dim sum are some of the world’s finest small bites. There are few dining experiences more convivial than sitting with friends or family and sharing a selection of small dishes with each guest taking a little of this and a spoonful of that. You can tailor your mezze to the tastes of the assembled party, be they vegetarian or meat-loving. Traditionally mezze were served with a drink as a sort of Middle Eastern aperitif but mezze can equally be a meal in its own right ...and what a delightful meal that would be!

The Mezze Cookbook offers a broad array of dishes from Greece, Lebanon and Turkey. They have the flavours of the Mediterranean with the addition of a pinch of cinnamon here and there, the tang of feta and a sprinkle of paprika. Mezze are not alarmingly spicy but rather more aromatic and flavourful.

Lamb is the most popular meat throughout the Middle East so it’s no surprise to see so many examples of lamb-based mezze here. Sfiha bil Lahm are mini meat and pine nut pizzas. Sambousek bil Lahm is similar but the filling is totally encased in pastry. Lamb Kebbeh is my favourite meat mezze and home-made is always better than those found in all but the best Lebanese restaurants.

Vegetarians are well served in the Middle East. Fried Courgette Balls are vegetable croquettes, Batata bil Kouzbara are fried cubes of potatoes with garlic and coriander. Spanakopita are the celebrated Greek spinach pies that are so often a disappointment in overcrowded tourist resorts. This recipe will revive your enthusiasm for this flaky and delicious snack.

The hot stuffed vegetables of Greece, Gemista, are show-stoppers. Tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes, peppers and potatoes are roasted with a filling of rice, onions, tomatoes and herbs, and are topped with feta cheese. They are a colourful bunch of vegetables and add impact to your display of mezze. Gemista are hearty enough to appeal to even non-vegetarians but they look delicate and appetising.

The Mezze Cookbook is an attractive large-format volume with around 90 recipes for Middle Eastern mezze and the photography by Stuart West is lovely. This is a lot of book for the price.


Author: Maria Khalifé
The Mezze Cookbook
Published by: New Holland
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-978-0
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Fast

This is another in The Australian Women’s Weekly series of chunky books which explore fast but deliciousFast food. There are 180 recipes that will only take you 35 minutes to cook ...no, not all at the same time, but one meal in just over half an hour is pretty good going.

Fast is a small-format, chubby book with photographs of every one of those 180 recipes. I don’t think pictures are essential for the more experienced of home cooks but they do give a bit of confidence to the culinarily challenged or to the novice. Having said that I should mention that any dish that only takes 35 minutes to cook is not going to be over-taxing.

It’s not just mid-week evenings that will find you short of time. Mornings are a scramble trying to get children and wife off to work, but you want to give them a healthy and sustaining breakfast before they go. It’s said to be the most important meal of the day. How about Cheesy Scrambled Eggs with Spinach? (Different sort of scramble.) Preparation time 5 minutes, cooking time 5 minutes, eating time 1.5 minutes, and serves four.

It’s lunchtime and it’s your turn to entertain. It’s possible in 35 minutes to present your guest with a sophisticated Mediterranean meal that will make you look like you have slaved for hours. Tomato, Pesto and Olive Tart takes 10 minutes to make (using bought puff pastry) and 20 minutes to cook. That leaves you enough time to clear up in the kitchen so your friends will also suppose you have a “lady that does” a couple of times each week. Thus you pass a no-stress lunchtime and your social status is elevated.

Dessert is often the first victim of rush. I tend to think of sweets as being more time-consuming than the main dish but Fast offers a good selection of quick and easy options. I am a lover of self-saucing puddings and there is a Lemon and Mixed Berry version that is a delight. These take 15 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook and they are foolproof.  Fast also tempts you with baked goods to satisfy your sugar craving. Berry Yogurt Muffins will be on the table in half an hour, or Hazelnut Tiramisu from the Weekend chapter is a lovely twist on the original and is super-fast, taking only 20 minutes.

Fast is a book for those of us who love good food but need to find ways of cutting down on kitchen time. There is no need to resort to costly takeaways or frozen ready meals. It’s easy to eat well with the minimum of time spent in preparation. This is a practical book filled with ideas for mouth-watering dishes that are sure to work. They have been triple-tested by those nice people at The Australian Women’s Weekly. Great value for money.


Fast
Author: The Australian Women’s Weekly
Published by: ACP Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-186396870-6
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The World of Spice

Michael Bateman was a tremendously appealing food writer. His books and newspaper articles were writtenThe World of Spice with a light and witty air which encouraged even non-foodies to settle down for a good read. The World of Spice is a typical example of Michael’s fine work.

This is a book of amazing photographs, traditional recipes from around the globe, and a Spice Directory. It’s a volume packed with detailed information about individual spices, and historic overviews of the spice heritage not only of the usual spice-producing countries but also of those nations that have had a warm relationship with imported spices.

There are a few countries in the cooler regions of the world that produce spices. The USA has the famed Tabasco, Spain and Hungary the vibrant paprika, and even England had a thriving saffron economy and still has a town, Saffron Waldon, to testify to that fact. Mustard has long been a popular condiment in Europe, and fortunes were said to be made from something that was largely left on the side of the plate. The more exotic spices might not have been grown in the northern hemisphere but they were nonetheless prized and many traditional recipes rely on spices for their distinctive savour.

The recipes are an eclectic bunch from every continent. There are the expected hot and tongue-tingling dishes of Asia alongside the subtle and aromatic offerings of Europe. Some of them are traditional and some are Michael’s take on the originals, but all give an insight into the evolution of these indispensible ingredients.

The French are not considered as great consumers of spicy food but they have Quatre Epices which is a melange (isn’t education a marvellous thing) of white pepper, nutmeg, ginger and cloves, although some commercial varieties omit the pepper... but the name remains “Four Spices”!

The New World has some unique recipes and Australia’s Anzac Biscuits demonstrate man’s fondness for elevating foods to promote national pride. These cookies are a crunchy confection of oats and ginger commemorating the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps of the First World War. Louisiana Jambalaya is a classic Creole dish using cayenne pepper and green chilli, and could be considered as one of the world’s first fusion dishes, combining both American and African flavours.

The Spice Directory gives colourful and fascinating information on many spices, illustrating not only culinary but medical uses. Nuts, fruits, flowers, berries, seeds, roots and leaves are all discussed. It’s a fairly comprehensive list but Michael’s conversational style prevents this from being a scientific paper.

The World of Spice is a delight for any lover of spices. It doesn’t focus on any particular cuisine nor just those spices that give heat to exotic dishes. Michael Bateman takes a broad view of everything that is considered Spice. This is an informative and attractive volume and will be sought by all who appreciated Michael’s talent as a food writer.


The World of Spice
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-674-5
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Italian Ice Cream

I have bought the ice cream maker and I am ready to churn. There are fine recipes in many books for iceItalian Ice Cream cream but isn’t there something romantic, and very chic, about real Italian ice cream? One is wafted to a picturesque piazza where you’ll be served a stylish confection, the memory of which will last a lifetime. Well, OK, you can’t replicate the ambiance of an Italian city (sounds of scooters, horns, screeching of brakes, screams of tourists) but you can get a close approximation to an authentic Italian frozen dessert.

Carla Bardi is the author of this sumptuous tome. She has numerous other cookbooks to her credit including Flavours of Rome. She was raised in Tuscany where she learnt to cook surrounded by a big extended family. Those lessons have served her well because she now runs a restaurant on the shores of Lake Bolsena.

Italian Ice Cream is a large-format volume with almost edible photographs by Lorenzo Pasquinelli. The impression given is of an adult ice cream restaurant rather than a dolly-mixture ice cream parlour. These are sophisticated desserts although mostly simple to prepare. Presentation is everything and there are classy serving suggestions that will add so much to the impact.

Carla offers four styles of dessert starting with Gelato, classic Italian ice cream, then Sorbetto, tangy sorbets, Granita, which has a grainy texture as the name suggests, and Semifreddo, which is softer and less cold than ice cream and usually custard-based. The advantage with all of these is that they are obviously made in advance and are therefore prime candidates for dinner parties and smart entertaining.

The most classic but the simplest of Gelato is the Rich Egg-Cream Gelato. Few ingredients but the result is a creamy convection that is heavenly. This is ideal for the end of an elaborate meal when an unfussy but delicious dessert is in order. I’d serve this with perhaps some sweet biscuits and a shot of espresso.

If you’re looking for an alcoholic but refreshing ice then After Dinner Sorbet will hit the spot. This has both whisky and white port so be mindful of drivers and those doing the washing up. It looks innocent enough, like a damp snowball, but it packs a punch. This isn’t one for the kids.

Double Chocolate Gelato Cake is the pièce de resistance (or whatever that is in Italian). This is a magnificent presentation of Chocolate Sponge (recipe in this book), Chocolate Gelato and that aforementioned Egg-Cream Gelato. It’s stunning but, like all the recipes, easy to prepare.

Italian Ice Cream contains more than 110 recipes for truly elegant frozen desserts. You’ll not be confronted by lengthy lists of ingredients and these ices are not over-taxing to make. The success depends on a combination of flavour and texture. The book is as delightful as the desserts and great value for money.


Italian Ice Cream
Author: Carla Bardi
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-139-6
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Barbecue Road Trip

This is probably my favourite kind of book – that which combines travel and food. That’s not meals onBarbecue Road Trip wheels or in-flight refreshments – this is taking a trip and finding culinary gems along the way. Barbecue Road Trip is one of the most mouth-watering travel/food books around but it will delight and disappoint many of you.

“DISAPPOINT”?? I hear you cry (in capital letters because you are crying loudly). Yes, not actually with the book but with the revelation that you might not be able to replicate these barbecue dishes in your own back yard. This volume will delight you with fine photography, witty text and some of the best rub, sauce and slaw recipes around .Barbecue Road Trip has been masterfully penned by Michael Karl Witzel, who has written numerous books about iconic American dining, as well as contributing to The Food Network and History and Travel Channels.

Michael gives you the bad news up front. A home barbecue grills food with direct heat rather than allowing it a long slow process available only from indirect heat. The flavour of authentic barbecue comes from the meats themselves and the rubs or marinades. Yes, a slight smokiness is imparted but that’s not the object of the exercise. To make REAL old-fashioned barbecue you need enough space to settle the ribs, joints or sausages away from flames. This is not Fast Food! Tenderness and flavour come after hours of cooking ...but it’s worth waiting for.

Barbecue Road Trip is a barbecue bible. No, it’s not a “you can do this yourself, folks” type of book; it’s a “these are the most marvellous restaurants around” type of book. No marks out of ten are given and no style of preparation is preferred. Michael has toured and talked, and presents you with an incredible overview of the art in Texas, Kansas City, Memphis and North Carolina, each one a hub for barbecue aficionados.

Americans can be proud that they have introduced the world to the home barbecue. That’s an event we all enjoy but it’s not the same as savouring food from a barbecue pit with a tray of traditional side dishes. Those slaws and potatoes and sauces will differ with every establishment but all those restaurants have things in common: the food will be tempting, the clientele will be loyal and the decor will be rustic ...the recipe for the rub or marinade is also likely to be a secret.

Barbecue Road Trip isn’t just an attractive volume to be enjoyed by Americans. It’s also going to be appreciated by those tourists who have had the pleasure of dining at any of these eateries and anyone who plans to visit the US in the future. America has a reputation for fine chefs both imported and home-grown, but the thought of barbecue will bring a tear to the home-sick eye of many overseas-stranded Americans... and I can understand why. I’m just off to book my ticket to Memphis... or Lexington... or...


Barbecue Road Trip
Author: Michael Karl Witzel
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price £17.99, $30.00US
ISBN 978-0-7603-2752-4
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Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook

It’s possible that you might not have heard the name Charita Jones but viewers of UK Kitchen NightmaresMomma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook will certainly remember this characterful lady winning over the tough and abusive Gordon Ramsay – her food was never in question. Ms. Jones has another more familiar name – Momma Cherri.

Soul in a Bowl presents the food that Charita knows best. These are classic Soul Food dishes with a few personal tweaks. They are both comforting and gutsy, but also economical. You might have heard about Soul Food but may never have had the chance to try it. There is nothing here that will require a trip to an ethnic supermarket, unless you are sufficiently enthused to buy Chitterlings (the only recipe in this book that will probably remain untested by me, although I might try some at Momma Cherri's restaurant).

Slavery was the root of this unique cuisine. Relying on vegetables, cheap cuts of meat and leftovers from the master’s kitchen, the enslaved population conjured and contrived tempting dishes that were hearty and sustaining but above all flavourful.

You’ll want to start your Soulful adventure with Momma Cherri’s Cajun Seasoning. Lots of Charita's recipes have a little of this spicy mix and you have the choice of buying commercial or using the mix described. There isn’t anything uncommon so I’d start by making a jar of this. It will keep for a month in a container or longer in the freezer.

There are some classic dishes that will probably be the ones you’ll want to make first. Hush Puppies are fritters of sweetcorn and peppers; Cornbread (a staple but it’s refined enough to accompany meals other than the Soul variety), Southern-Fried Chicken, and Candied Sweet Potatoes all evoke memories of old films about Southern US states where the policeman was always ugly and nasty, and there was a fat white man sweating in a wrinkled suit ...but the food always sounded good.

Poor Man’s Pie is an original creation and I’ll be making it often. It’s a crowd-pleaser of a pie filled with minced beef, chorizo sausages and vegetables and topped with a cornbread batter. Sweet Potato Pie is simple to make, has a silky texture and would be a fitting end to a BBQ...or any event at all, in my opinion.

Soul Food was born of necessity but has grown to be worthy and distinctive. Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook allows us to enjoy amazing food that is truly something different. It’s accessible good food that will appeal to the whole family, and you can’t say that very often!


Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook
Author: Charita Jones
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 13: 9781904573814
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The Big Book of World Tapas

This book could have had a couple of different titles both of which would have been equally relevant – HowThe Big Book of World Tapas to Cater Your Own Wedding (or at least your cousins’), or How to Throw a Cocktail Party Without Needing a Second Mortgage (assuming that you had already found a bank to give you the first one). Julia Hartley has been a catering professional for the past 16 years and her expertise shines through not only in the quality of the recipes but in the invaluable advice.

The Big Book of World Tapas isn’t just about those delightful little dishes of food found in wood-panelled bars in Spain. It’s about the concept of presenting small and tasty bites to a few family members or a host of guests. It draws upon bite-size recipes for delicious morsels from around the world. India, China, Europe and the Middle East all have their versions of Tapas. What better way of offering a variety of tastes and textures to those whose palates have been jaded by years of abuse from curly ham sandwiches, soggy coronation chicken vol au vents, and carrot sticks that bend like tulips in a vase.

This lovely book gives you enough information to set up in business. I always worry that I have not prepared enough food for guests. I have something of a siege mentality when it comes to food so there is invariably a lot of waste. That’s an expensive mistake in these days of high food prices and little spare cash. Julia has a useful table that suggests quantities of food depending on type of event, number of guests and length of party (people stay longer than you expect).

Julia has tapas selections for 6 types of event: Brunches, Pre-dinner Drinks, Cocktail Parties, Late-night Drinks, Parties and Celebrations, and Weddings. All the tapas can be mixed and matched so you can tailor the food to the guests. There is plenty here for vegetarians, who often get a raw deal (those limp carrots again) but those vegetarian items are exotic enough to appeal also to meat-eaters who are probably heartily sick of sausage rolls.

There are 365 international tapas listed and it’s difficult to pick just a few from the list of remarkable savoury ones. Chorizo, Red Pepper & Manchego Empanadas would have my vote for the most Spanish tapa. Squid Stuffed with Pine Nuts and Raisin Rice is outstanding and most of the work can be done in advance. Roasted Tikka Potatoes would be a flavourful hot dish that will disappear before your very eyes. They couldn’t be easier and they are a great fall-back tapa if a few unexpected extra guests turn up.

Sweets at catered events are often a disappointment or overlooked altogether. I have never been keen on wedding cake but that and trifle are the predictable offerings. The Big Book of World Tapas tempts you with Treacle Tartlets, Hazelnut Clusters and Chocolate Fondue along with many other delights to sooth your previously neglected dessert craving.

The Big Book of World Tapas is a book that will enable you to throw the best of parties without resorting to outside help. It isn’t as daunting as it might seem. The dishes are straightforward with the minimum of ingredients, and lots of work can be done several days in advance. Julia Hartley has penned the new event-catering bible for the home cook. Amazing value for money.


The Big Book of World Tapas
Julia Hartley
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-679-6
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The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth

The author, Jonny Bowden, is a nutritionalist but is one of the few who has remained an independentThe 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth thinker. He hasn’t nailed his colours to the mast of a particular Super Food; and he has refrained from saying that any particular ingredient should be avoided at all cost (apart from the infamous trans-fatty acids).

Jonny presents a book that is noteworthy for its lack of hype and scare-mongering. He offers an unbiased view of foods and discusses their individual benefits. He encourages you to think of foods as friends rather than unsavoury (or savoury for that matter) acquaintances who won’t take no for an answer.

This is an easy book to read, use and appreciate. Jonny starts with an overview and an explanation of dietary terms. He doesn’t assume that you have a degree in something health-related and he targets his wisdom towards the general public who want to eat balanced and healthful meals.

When I say “diet” I don’t mean that The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth focuses on weight loss. It’s true, however, that a balanced diet will promote a slimmer and sleeker you if you happen to be a bit on the chubby side. This book is a tool to aid healthy eating and to allow you to make the best possible food choices.

The book is divided by food type with sections devoted to each food group. There are the useful additions of chapters for beverages and herbs and spices as well as oils and sweeteners. The volume of information on each item is considerable, with both pros and cons discussed. He busts some food myths: that chocolate is the root of mankind’s undoing, and that you would be better off if you banished coffee from your life forever. Sounding good, isn’t it?

Jonny Bowden has a raft of experts who have added their personal Top 10 foods at the end of each section, and there are plenty of Worth Knowing notes to further add to the breadth of information. He has an easy accessible style of writing that is neither condescending nor over-technical. It’s a book to read and enjoy but it has a serious message. You can lead a healthier life by just making a few painless adjustments, and you’ll feel better for it.


The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth
Author: Jonny Bowden
Published by: Fair Winds
Price: £15.99, $24.99US
ISBN 13: 978-1-59233-228-1
mostly food journal

Cucina Napoletana

This is a stunning volume of 100 or so recipes and a mix of colour photographs and evocative black andCucina Napoletana white shots of the city and its people. Cucina Napoletana isn’t out to impress you with recipes from restaurants with crisp white tablecloths, although they are touched upon. Instead, this book gives you an impression of gutsy flavours and of no-frills inhabitants of a town that has had a “reputation” since Roman times.

Naples takes advantage of all the fine foods that Italy has to offer, but in particular the produce from the region surrounding the city. Its climate makes it ideal for growing tomatoes and chillies along with potatoes and peppers, and it has the benefit of the abundance of the sea. Meat dishes rely on pork and chicken rather than beef, which was historically out of the reach of most of the population.

The author Arturo Lengo has lived and worked in Naples for more than 30 years. Although not a native of Naples he has a passion for the area and its food. He presents dishes that are appropriate for both family meals and smart entertaining, and dishes that are both delicious as well as overflowing with healthful ingredients.

Naples is the home of Pizza – the thin-crust with toppings that complement rather than swamp the base – cooked to perfection in a wood-burning oven and consumed with a carafe of red wine and to the sound of a Puccini opera. Well, you probably won’t have the wood-burning oven but your pizza will still be better than any shop-bought varieties... or even those delivered by the lad on a moped. And you can always buy a CD of La Bohème. Arturo offers several pizzas including the most celebrated Margherita invented by pizza chef Raffaela Esposito in 1889, who named his creation in honour of Queen Margherita. Pizza Capperi, Olive e Acciughi is pizza garnished with capers, olives and anchovies. There is the ever-present mozzarella and tomato to offset the salty tang of the other ingredients, to produce a pizza that would be ideal with aperitifs.

Cucina Napoletana has numerous pasta dishes ranging from the cheap and cheerful but truly delicious Farfalle with Tuna and Peas to Spaghetti with Prawns, Squid and Clams. One of the quickest to prepare is Linguine with Pancetta and Tomato Sauce. It’s a traditional Easter dish in Naples although I am sure it will be a year-round favourite with those that love pasta dressed with few ingredients and little fuss.

Sfogliatelle Ricce are semolina and ricotta pastries that originated in the 1700s in the kitchens of the Croce di Lucca monastery. They were prepared for guests but in 1818 Pasquale Pintauro, a baker in Naples, baked the first ones commercially outside the walls of a religious establishment. This is a recipe for the more confident cook but the results will be worth the effort.

Cucina Napoletana is full of recipes that will tempt you, and photographs by Hannah Mornement show the Neapolitan character off to its quirky finest. “See Naples and die” is a phrase the origins of which are lost in the mists of time. Sounds like more of a threat than a promise, so consider “Eat Naples and live” as a more attractive alternative. You could certainly live very nicely on these dishes.


Cucina Napoletana
Author: Arturo Lengo
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-989-6
mostly food journal

Grown in Britain Cookbook

If you are British and in any way interested in organic produce, free range poultry and eggs, and low foodGrown in Britain Cookbook miles then this could well be the book for you. It’s a veritable encyclopaedia of information on seasonal vegetables, organic producers and it has 200 or so recipes to encourage you to use those lovely foods.

The author, Carolyn Humphries, has been a food journalist and writer for over 30 years. She is a trained chef and the author of over 60 books. Grown in Britain Cookbook is a collaboration between Carolyn and the Soil Association, who are responsible for the certification of organic food. They have been promoting the links between healthy soil and healthy plants and animals for years.

Many of us have concerns for the environment and food safety. There have been plenty of scares lately to keep animal husbandry to the forefront of the public debate. Vegetarians are no longer considered cranks, and these days fewer of us want to buy strawberries to serve with Christmas dinner. Financial constraints might restrict us from being totally organic all the time but Grown in Britain Cookbook will allow us to make informed choices.

It’s more important than ever to buy seasonal vegetables when they are at their cheapest and best. Shops are full of every kind of produce so it’s often difficult to appreciate what is actually in season. Grown in Britain Cookbook gives you a month-by-month guide to what’s being harvested, picked, collected, produced or caught. There are ample photographs to show you exactly what purple sprouting broccoli looks like, and recipes that will even tempt you into free food foraging. Wild Nettles and Scrambled Egg only uses 20g of nettles so it won’t take long to collect. They are said to be good for us, being high in iron and minerals, and free, which always makes you feel better.

The recipes are a marvellous selection which make the best of fresh produce. It’s not the beige, unappetising and chewy dishes of yesteryear. These will tickle your palate without traumatising your pocket. Fiery Peanut and Pepper Noodles are colourful and flavourful and reflect the way we eat today. Creamy Calabrese and Blue Cheese Puffs will be a welcome and tangy change from sausage rolls. Crunchy Vegetable Crumble is a flexible recipe to use with any seasonal vegetables. The rolled oat topping is a healthy twist on the traditional crumble.

The great and the good of the food world have contributed recipes. Sophie Grigson, Thane Prince and Atul Kochhar are a few from the list who support the ethos of buying local and organic produce where possible. Grown in Britain Cookbook is a showcase for fine foods that are fresh and bursting with flavour. Take advantage of good value British produce: we might not be growing mangos and oranges but we have a wider selection of fruit and vegetables than ever before. Consider the environment and serve your family healthy and delicious meals.


Grown in Britain Cookbook
Author: Carolyn Humphries
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-4040-3
mostly food journal

Gale Gand’s Brunch

Brunch is a long-established American tradition. It’s easy to understand why it has become so popular. It isGale Gand’s Brunch an activity that combines social interaction and delicious food... or a way of entertaining friends and family without the fuss and arduous preparation of a full-scale dinner party.

Sunday morning (unless you are a priest or a vicar) is often a time devoted to walking the dog, washing the car or cutting the lawn. Those pleasurable (yeah, right) tasks could be postponed till the afternoon, allowing pleasant morning hours of convivial companionship shared with loved ones... and fabulous food.

Brunch food should be easily prepared, a delight for the eye and present the kinds of dishes that can be consumed in an unhurried fashion. Gale Gand's Brunch offers recipes that tick all the boxes. Not only are all those boxes ticked but it’s done with style and imagination. Brunch isn’t an excuse for an unreasonably early Sunday lunch or a late breakfast. Somehow the English “Full Monty” (that fried breakfast of legendary proportions) doesn’t have the class of Gale’s marvellous spreads.

Gale Gand will be a familiar name to all US Food Network viewers. She was the presenter of Sweet Dreams, the network’s first daily show devoted to baking. Gale is an award winning pastry chef and co-owner of the celebrated Tru restaurant in Chicago so it’s no surprise that the dishes here are delectable. There are around 100 of them so you’ll be hosting many a brunch before you need to cover the same territory again.

This book leads you through basic brunch favourites like Omelettes but continues through a whole plethora of toasts, baked goods, savoury dishes to salads and soups. There is enough variety here to cater for the dietary whims of all the family ...even your nephew who will only eat red food. Start him off with a Bloody Mary and feed him Gazpacho. (It's probably only a phase he’s going through... although he is 46.)

Popovers will be something new for many of my British readers. Think of the lightest imaginable Yorkshire Pudding and add some flavour. Gale has Mini Popovers that are airy with a delicate hint of herbs and irresistible with Lemon Butter. If you have a Yorkshire pudding tin or muffin tin then you’ll be able to make these.

Baked Camembert has become a classic but Gale suggests a Cranberry-Black Pepper Compote to serve alongside. That would add some zing to a dish that is otherwise quite heavy. Caramelized Onion Tarts are also inspired by the French and this is a fine example using zucchini (courgette) and feta cheese. This recipe uses ready-bought puff pastry, as does Peanut Butter and Jelly Turnovers which are bound to be winners with the kids!

My favourite recipe from Gale Gand’s Brunch is that for Torta Rustica. This is the most amazing layered pie of vegetables and ham (I am sure you could make a vegetarian version.) This dish will impress your guests and have them begging you for the recipe. There is more than a full page of instructions but don’t be put off. It’s a simple recipe but one of those that has several elements. A novice cook would gain confidence and compliments.

Gale Gand’s Brunch will have us all inviting friends over for an amazing feast. The cook will be able to enjoy the day as much as his/her guests. I wouldn’t, however, reserve these brunch delights for Sundays at 11am. You’ll find much here that will be equally well received at lunches, picnics and dinners. Brilliant.


Gale Gand’s Brunch
Author: Gale Gand
Published by: Clarkson Potter
Price: $27.50US
ISBN 978-0-307-40698-9
mostly food journal

Thailand- A World of Flavours

The author of Thailand - A World of Flavours is Christine Watson. The name doesn’t sound very Thai orThailand- A World of Flavours even Asian but, in fact, Christine grew up in South-East Asia and so has been well placed to select dishes from Thailand that are certainly authentic but are also appealing to the western palate. Christine trained at the internationally renowned Leith’s School of Food and Wine and now works as a food writer and stylist in London.

Christine gives a tantalising overview of Thai cuisine in the first section of her book, and presents some classic dishes that those who have travelled to Thailand, and Thai restaurant-goers, will recognise. Fish Sauce with Chillies is as ubiquitous in Thailand as, say, ketchup might be in the west. It’s simple to make but it will add that distictive kick to Thai food. Chicken Pad Thai is one of the best known of Thai dishes but Pad Thai can also be made with seafood or tofu. Mangoes feature highly in Thai cooking, both sweet and juicy for desserts, and unripe in salads. Christine offers a delicious Mango sorbet that would be a charming finale to a traditional meal.

Each region of Thailand has its own cuisine which depends upon the produce found in that area. The north is mountainous and far from the sea so fish isn’t used so often. Pork, chicken and beef cooked in mild curries are typical. The food of Southern Thailand has the flavours we dream about. Coconut, fishcakes, shrimp and peanuts. The tropical climate encourages coconut palms to flourish and those coconuts are used to great effect in Coconut Beef Curry. This is quick to make but I suggest you reduce the quantity of chillies unless you want an authentically HOT Thai curry. It makes an impressive meal for little effort.

There is a recipe in Thailand - A World of Flavours that would encourage any Thai food lover to buy the book: it’s Chilli Preserve. That might seem strange but it’s a recipe seldom seen. Many books give rafts of instructions on how to make every dish from slow-cooked curries to carved fruit but Chilli Preserve is the essence of Thai cuisine.

Christine Watson is a writer who has evident passion for the food of South-East Asia. Her selection of recipes shows the best of Thai cooking and also introduces us to new delights that we can easily make at home. It’s an attractive and enticing volume and great value for money.


Thailand- A World of Flavours
Author: Christine Watson
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-320-8
mostly food journal

Balance and Harmony – Asian Food

This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful cookbook I have ever reviewed. The floral cloth cover is aBalance and Harmony – Asian Food vision of cottagey charm, and the quality of the paper used inside that lovely binding sets this book apart. The artwork that recalls between-the-wars China is stunning and presents a more stylish impression than would the more often found shots of a contemporary food market in Hong Kong (live fish in small buckets and snakes in jars being the touristy norm) or a cleaver-wielding cook wearing a vest (singlet or undershirt depending on the national origin of my dear reader).

Neil Perry, the author, fell in love with Asian food at a very young age. His dad had a passion for all things Chinese and would take his son on visits to Sydney’s Chinatown to shop for ingredients and to eat. These excursions evidently made a great impression on the young Neil. Several decades later Neil has his own restaurant and he believes his love of Asian food has helped him produce better dishes, whether Asian or western.

Balance and Harmony is the name of the book, and the recipes reflect that, guiding you to taste and adjust the seasonings and spices as you cook, to achieve a dish that tantalises the palate. Neil isn’t suggesting that food needs to be complicated, but it should have depth.

The book is divided into two sections. The first part covers Basic Techniques and Recipes, and the second has Advanced Recipes and Banquet Menus. I would think that all the recipes could be tackled by an enthusiastic home cook, but the first chapters would be a good starting point for the novice or those who are unfamiliar with Asian food.
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food

There are lots of classic dishes here and the book is no worse for that. Prawn Toast is popular with
restaurant goers but it makes lovely nibbles at western drinks parties. Sweet and Sour Pork has long had a bad press. It’s often a nasty greasy mess of stodgy batter coated with a sauce so bright you could read a book by its glow. Balance and Harmony offers a homemade version that puts the Panda Paw Inn (I trust there is, in reality, no such restaurant) to shame.

Tangerine Peel Chicken is a triumph. This is a Sichuan-inspired recipe and has heat in the form of chillies as you might expect. The peel adds a hint of citrus perfume that is subtle but unmistakable. Although this recipe is found in the Advanced section it is in no way beyond even a modestly adept cook.

Balance and Harmony – Asian Food is gift-quality and a stunner. The recipes don’t disappoint and cover a wide spectrum of Chinese dishes to tempt carnivores and non-meat eaters alike. It’s a delight.


Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
Author: Neil Perry
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-74045-908-2
mostly food journal

660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking

Yes, I knew that a book of some 660 curries was winging its way to me but I had no concept of what a660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking book of those aforementioned curries might look like. This is a seriously big book that cuts no corners and skimps not a jot of detail, advice, background or explanation.

The author Raghavan Iyer is a US-based Indian chef and educator. Both those disciplines place him ideally for writing this Curry Bible, this Subcontinental Encyclopaedia, this Master Work of Spicy Delight. I don’t mean to rename Raghavan’s book but it should have a title that more accurately reflects the breadth of the topic.

To tackle a cookbook of this size might be a daunting prospect, especially for the novice cook. No need to be put off. Raghavan gently takes your hand and leads you through every element of spice selection, paste grinding, frying, grilling and simmering. He doesn’t assume that you have a familiar and close relationship with your kitchen, and you’ll not be confronted by recipes that are anything other than simple.

660 Curries offers every conceivable curry for every possible occasion. I am impressed by Raghavan’s recipes for pastes and spice blends. These take just a few minutes to prepare but add a taste of true authenticity to dishes. Spices are readily available in stores or by mail order.

The recipes will tempt both meat eaters and vegetarians. Every meat has its chapter and each vegetable has numerous possibilities. I love lentils and beans, and I thought I had acquired a reasonable repertoire of dishes but this book must contain every recipe ever devised. There are many with which I am familiar, such as Moong Masoor Dal (Red and Yellow Lentils) and Teen Taal Dal (Creamy Black Lentils) but that’s a fraction of the Legume Curries listed.

Chicken is popular among non-vegetarian Indians and it was amusing to find Chicken Tikka Masala. Yes, it’s said to be Britain’s National dish. Raghavan points out that it was concocted entirely for Europeans, but is delicious when made well. I guess we can still call it an authentic Indian dish because it was originally cooked by authentic Indians.

The chapter entitled Curry Cohorts is as important as the Curry chapters. The Cohorts are those indispensible side dishes or accompaniments. Rice is the obvious candidate, and Raghavan describes 10 alternatives to the plain boiled that tends to be the norm. There are plenty of breads including traditional roti, as well as hearty Mutter Kachoris (Flaky Breads stuffed with Spicy Green Peas).

An Indian meal isn’t quite complete without an array of other items to nibble. Papads (or papadoms) can be used instead of bread with a curry or served as an appetiser with some chutney or relish. Kachumber is a fresh Indian “salsa” made with chopped cucumber, tomato and onion. It is tangy and light and is amazing with fish. Nimboo Ka Achar is a lime pickle and one of the most popular preserves. Raghavan has an easy version that will add a tang to curries and breads but also to European cheeses such as cheddar.

660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking departs from the savoury theme just long enough to tempt you with Mango Cardamom Cheesecake. This is unmistakably Indian. Well, OK, cheesecakes aren’t normally considered to be an Indian invention, but the addition of cardamom gives the impression that cheesecakes might well have been first devised in a classy restaurant kitchen in Mumbai. A sprinkle of fresh pomegranate seeds, and you have a stunning and exotic dessert.

It’s been my pleasure (mostly) to review hundreds of recipe books and they have been well written and informative, but 660 Curries has a place in my top 10 books reviewed to date. Raghavan has an easy style of writing which is engaging and full of wry humour. I spend half my life eating Indian food and reading Indian recipes but 660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking has held my attention, introduced me to new dishes and encouraged me to learn more. This is one of the largest tomes to cross my desk (kitchen worktop on trestles) but the quality of research and penmanship are what sets this book apart. Raghavan Iyer is a remarkable ambassador for Indian food. Amazing value for money.


660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Author: Raghavan Iyer
Published by: Workman Publishing
Price: $ 22.95US
ISBN 978-0-7611-3787-0
mostly food journal

Modern Spice

You know, dear reader, that Indian food is my passion. It’s been my pleasure to review many IndianModern Spice cookbooks written by India-born Indians, UK-born Indians, India-born English, and now an India-born Indian living in the USA. Monica Bhide is that Indian and she has penned a most delightful book that will be as well received on this side of the pond as it is bound to be in the US.

Modern Spice takes a look at Indian food and gives it a twist. None of us have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We want food that is flavourful, healthy and attractive but we don’t want to be taking all day cooking it. Monica has a life full of children, work and husband (in no particular order) but she still wants to present food that reflects her rich heritage. She takes advantage of ingredients that are readily available in western supermarkets and adds Indian spices to create a selection of new recipes that are both Asian and Western. This isn’t fusion food, it’s evolution food.

You don’t have to be a practised preparer of subcontinental food. There is plenty of advice here to set you off on your culinary journey. The first chapters introduce you to the spice pantry and then Monica’s Kitchen Rules. Nothing to make you anxious, just good sound cooking know-how.

Monica has captured the essence of Indian food but she has transformed it. These dishes are both accessible and charmingly different from those that we more often see in European-targeted cookbooks. The Indian “Burger” is traditional street food but Monica has adapted it for the western kitchen. This is comfort food at its spicy best. Heirloom Tomato Salad with Chat Masala has few ingredients and fewer directions but the result is both refreshing and spicy. Again, it’s using great produce to present something that is unique and appealing.

It’s difficult to choose just a couple of favourite recipes from Modern Spice. The Legendary Chicken 65 will become... well, legendary. It’s that combination of deep-fried food (don’t look at me that way, I am not eating it every day) and a spicy oil as a garnish.

Green Beans Subzi can be made with frozen green beans. This is a marvellous side dish to some plain roast meat. Yes, it has the unmistakable flavour of India but you don’t need to use Indian dishes just with Indian meals. There is so much in Modern Spice that you can mix and match with the European.

True, this is a cookbook, and a very fine one, but if you just read the recipes you will miss so much. Monica’s life has taken her from India to Bahrain and then to America. Modern Spice is a book made richer by family anecdotes, stories of laughter and tears. It’s a warm-hearted page-turner with lovely recipes. Modern Spice should become a classic of contemporary Indian cuisine. It’s not a compromise, it’s fresh and inviting.


Modern Spice
Author: Monica Bhide
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: $25.00, £17.19
ISBN 13: 978-1-4165-6659-5
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