London Based Caribbean Savouries makes an ethical difference in Jamaica
As many companies spend most of their time focusing on keeping profits to themselves during the
economic downtown; one company is making a difference and reaping the
rewards. In May 2009; Caribbean Savouries launched its new range of
flavours with the help of the Jamaican High Commissioner, Hon. Burchell
Whiteman OJ. Two new flavours of authentic Jamaican Patties build upon
the success of their existing range.
As part of its ongoing vision to make a difference, Caribbean Savouries
Ltd has been contributing to a number of grassroots projects and
charitable programmes. It recently donated a medical bus to the
Jamaican government which provides medical and dental care throughout
the island. Scholarships have been established by the company at the
UWI for the island students who have proven that they can go to the
next level. A building has also been provided for women with HIV and
other illnesses which provides accommodation them and medical care,
this is run by Fr. Richard Holung. Caribbean Savouries are also proud
to be sponsors of the Noel Holmes Memorial Hospital and West Haven
Children Home for vulnerable children across Jamaica. It is based in
Hanover and provides much needed medical equipment to the hospital and
home. The Jamaican High Commissioner His Excellency Hon. Burchell
Whiteman is also the patron of this Charity.
All of the spices used by the company are imported from Jamaica and
contribute towards the Jamaican economy by providing jobs and foreign
exchange. By advocating these charitable projects and giving back to
the Jamaican economy Caribbean Savouries is an example of how any
British business can make a difference anywhere whilst still enjoying
true success in its chosen industry.
Next
time you are passing South Africa, don't! Swing by Cape Town and visit
a cosy spot for some delicious food. Kassia & Figg is an artisanal
deli and eatery at 22 Dalebrook Place, Main Road, Kalk Bay. You’ll find
updated news and a pre-order menu at www.vanielje.com (click on Kassia & Figg).
Here are the dates for Lotte Duncan's Autumn and Christmas Demonstration Days!
Wednesday 23rd September 2009 - Fabulous Fish Day!
Wednesday 14th October 2009 - Comfort Food for Chilly Days
Wednesday 18th November 2009 - Comfort Food for Chilly Days
Wednesday 2nd December 2009 - Easy Christmas Entertaining
Wednesday 9th December 2009 - Easy Christmas Entertaining
Days are £100 per person. It starts at 10 am and finishes about
3.30 pm! All the information can be found on Lotte's website www.lotteduncan.com or you can give her a ring on
01844 208790.
11th Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival
Aberaeron, Ceredigion, West Wales
11th Alton Farmers' Market and Food Festival
High Street, Alton, Hampshire
14th - 16th Great Yorkshire Show
The Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate
17th - 19th Kent County Show
County Showground, Detling, Kent
18th The Cumberland County Show
Rickerby Park, Carlisle, Cumberland
20th - 23rd Royal Welsh Show
Llanelwedd, Builth Wells, Powys
26th Winchester Guildhall Food & Produce Show
Middlebrook Street and adjoing car park Markets
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
The Observer Food Monthly described meeting Reza Mahammad
as "like being ambushed by a cross between Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and
Freddie Mercury". He must be one of the most easily recognised Asian
faces on British TV. His effervescent style and playful personality
have made him a popular presenter.
Reza was born in England to Indian parents and was sent off to boarding school in Panchgani, India, to be educated.
His parents were worried that he would lose touch with their roots if
he stayed in the UK. This provided Reza with a good British education
but he says, “It left me speaking English with a public school accent
and Hindi with an English accent. A hybrid torn between two worlds.”
It wasn’t the boarding school food that gave him a passion for fine
Indian cuisine. “The food at boarding school was vile – Breakfast: cold
fried eggs, watery lentils, stale bread, and rancid butter. Lunch:
bland curry, stodgy rice.” He fell in love with Indian cuisine in the
holidays when he stayed with his extended family in the Western Ghats
in India.
Mr. Mahammad Senior was one of the first Indian chefs to come to
Britain. “My father had arrived here in 1937 and we had been brought up
on stories of how hard he used to work - tales of how he'd have to wait
at the docks for the boats carrying the spices to come in.”
Tragedy struck the family when Reza was 16. His father died of a heart
attack and the responsibility of the family business fell on Reza’s
young shoulders. “There was an obligation to continue what my father
had left behind. It was a duty.” The business in question was The Star
of India Restaurant, Old Brompton Road, South Kensington, London.
This was the caricature of a 1950s Indian restaurant with flock
wallpaper, which wasn’t much to Reza’s taste. He embarked on a series
of revamps and has settled on classic contemporary...for a while! His
mother, Kulsum, was horrified. “But I said to her: ‘Who is running this
restaurant, you or me?’ People thought I was making a terrible mistake
but actually it was the best thing I did.”
The Star of India didn’t have the best reputation for food either, so
it’s been hard work and dedication to turn things around. “When I
inherited the Star of India from my father, I had no clue about
cooking. I picked up a few recipes from my mother and improvised on the
restaurant's existing menu. My mantra is to go easy on oil and make
food appear as appetising as possible.”
Now The Star of India is one of London’s most successful and
prestigious restaurants and Reza is both head chef and proprietor.
Today you are likely to be rubbing shoulders with media types and
“faces” from TV and film (Daniel Day Lewis, Hugh Grant and Art Malik
are regulars) and it’s said that Reza drapes himself across tables and
sings arias from time to time, but that could just be a rumour! “The
years spent managing The Star of India established the restaurant as an
institution and enabled me to explode onto the restaurant and food
scene.”
Those media types come in handy sometimes! One of the regulars was a TV
director who came up with the idea of Madhur Jaffrey (the original
Cooking Star of India) and Reza collaborating on a cookery series that
became A Taste of India.
Reza has become a familiar face on TV with UKTV Food Channel's Delhi
Belly with Sanjeev Bhaskar, the star of Goodness Gracious Me/The
Kumars. Reza’s irrepressible and often camp persona was allowed full
rein which resulted in an exotic travelogue filled with authentic food,
colour and pazazz. The success of Delhi Belly and the popularity of
Reza led on to further series of Coconut Coast, and United States of
Reza.
Reza Mahammad has penned his first book, Rice, Spice and All Things Nice; it’s a mixture of dishes from his
restaurant, travels, and family recipes handed down through the
generations. “It’s an attempt to demystify Indian cooking,” says Reza.
“More and more people know how Indian food should taste because they've
been travelling, but they don't know how to cook it.”
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is a dream of a cookbook. It has that
blend of food and travel that I, for one, find so appealing. The
photography of both food and Reza is mouthwatering and the text is
amusing but also encouraging. The man obviously wants you to cook his
food and you won’t be disappointed if you do.
The recipes are marvellously well chosen and offer something for every
taste and skill. There are plenty of classics (Indian Rice Pudding to
die for, Cucumber Raita, Chicken Dhansak) but lots of others which
might be less familiar.
Afghan Aubergine Casserole has surprisingly few ingredients, is simple
to make and delicious. Dak Bungalow Chicken has a longish list of
ingredients but don’t be put off. This is another easy dish to make and
it’s a stunner. Meatballs in a Green Sauce (Koftas Hara Masala) also
has a good number of ingredients but the preparation is easy and you’ll
just need to serve some rice alongside. A good recipe for a large
dinner party.
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is amongst my top 10 cookbooks. It is a
thoroughly entertaining read, the food is gorgeous, I can make every
dish without tears, and it’s a book I’ll actually use. I’ll need
another copy as this one will soon be sauce-spattered and dog-eared.
The sign of a well-loved cookbook.
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
Author: Reza Mahammad
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84737-049-5
Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00
I do love a good Myth-Busting book, and Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00 is a candidate for first
prize in the culinary section. Every American tourist seems to have a
tale of horror about the food in London. (Does anyone ask how many
British tourists have been equally appalled by food in New York?)
Whilst it’s true that London, and Britain in general, had a bad
reputation for food, things have changed.
The secret of eating well is to know where to go. If you want
predictable then London has a good selection of McDonalds and the
burgers will taste just the same as they do in Dubuque, Iowa, but why
not try some real British food that will have you proclaiming that
London is the foodie capital of the world?
Elaine Louie is an American who has dedicated quite a bit of time to
researching restaurants that will be appealing to Americans. Elaine
works for The New York Times where she is a regular contributor to
Home, Dining, and Sunday Styles sections. She was evidently charmed by
what she found and probably a little surprised.
Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00 lists 50 or so
restaurants that reflect the breadth of the new British restaurant
scene. There are eateries that offer breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea
and dinner. They are found in every area of the capital and cover both
traditional British and ethnic fare.
Do I have a favourite from this collection of restaurants? Yes, but
it’s not a restaurant, it’s a pub, or more correctly a gastropub. It’s
an establishment with the charm of an iconic pub but with more
attention to food. It’s the Eagle Public House in Clerkenwell, East
London and was one of the original gastropubs. There have been a few
reviews of late that suggest that this gastropub might be getting by on
reputation alone, but it’s still worth a look.
This chunky volume will be a riveting read to any American with an
interest in food and a ticket to Heathrow. There are great suggestions
here so steer clear of tourist traps and follow the locals, and you’ll
not go hungry. A lovely gift for a traveller.
Savoir Fare London – Stylish Dining for Under $25.00
Author: Elaine Louie
Published by: The Little Bookroom
Price: $14.95, £8.99, $16.95CAN
ISBN 978-1-892145-65-9
Historic Colorado
Claude Wiatrowski has an evident passion for Colorado and another, equal in depth, for trains. He has three degrees
in sensible technical and engineering subjects but he also plays drums
for a brace of big bands, a gospel quartet and a polka band. A
well-rounded character, I’d say.
I had never considered a vacation in anything other than a city when
visiting the USA. I am not, by nature, the woodsy sort who loves the
outdoors, hiking, camping, getting too cold, getting too hot. I am not
a lover of wildlife (the clue is in the name – “wild”) and each tree
looks the same as the next, so why would I want to spend time in
Colorado?
Well, I read James A. Michener’s Centennial and I was hooked. Historic
Colorado adds some vibrant and exciting pictures and has turned that
novel into a subliminal movie. I might not normally be a fanatic when
it comes to long walks but a walk in such country would be a thrill and
well worth getting a little overheated for.
The author has a marvellous collection of photographs. The contemporary
ones show the scenery to great advantage, and the black and white
pictures show faces and places of those who made this land part of the
USA, or whose land was taken to become part of the USA. Colorado is a
state with an ethnic diversity that has helped to give it a cultural
richness.
Historic Colorado offers tours of regions within the state and all have
associated maps so it’s easy to choose the area that best suits your
travel needs and interests. Each has a number of suggested trips with
detailed directions, photographs and information to put your
surroundings into historic context.
Colorado has an amazing past. Indians, Spanish, gold miners, settlers
from the East have all left their mark, and sometimes scars, on the
face of this land. The USA might be a new(ish) country but Colorado has
a past that reaches back thousands of years and reflects human struggle
and initiative. You’ll find mysterious ancient pueblos, breathtaking
mountains, abandoned mines, iconic railways and the echo of pioneers.
This is the real America that so many tourists, even American ones,
seek.
Historic Colorado is a must-have book for all those who are planning a
visit. Take this along with Centennial and you will have a trip of a
lifetime... if you can fit it all into just one vacation.
Historic Colorado
Author: Claude Wiatrowski
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $22.99US, £13.99, $24.95CAN
ISBN 978-0-7603-3256-6
Gentleman’s Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities
This small chunky book is a treat. It lists and describes just about all of those quirky and well-loved foodstuffs that
we hold dear. Yes, we consider them to be English but a remarkable
number of them have either foreign origins or foreign originators.
Gentleman’s Relish is a mine of information that will charm any foodie.
Gentleman’s Relish, the celebrated fish paste, is the first item and
it’s a smart one from any view-point. It’s a strong and salty
concoction much enjoyed by the English upper classes. First devised by
John Osborn in 1828 it has anchovies as its key ingredient. It’s
synonymous with the sadly missed Savoury Course at dinner parties,
where it would be presented to those guests (mostly the men) who still
had a chink of space after the preceding seven or so courses. Those
were the days.
I didn’t know exactly the origin of Mars bars. I knew it was unlikely
to be Mars and it is, in fact, the USA. They didn’t find their way
across the pond till the 1930s. The English contribution to chocolate
heaven might be Bendicks Bittermints, which are often taken home by
tourists who appreciate the packaging as much as the candy. It says
‘Mayfair’!
The Full English Breakfast and HP Sauce could very easily have been
combined into a single article. Yes, it’s true that many now eat the
Full Monty with tomato ketchup; the purist will stick to HP sauce and
English mustard. There are regional variations, with white pudding
being added in Ireland, black pudding being included in the North, but
all with fried bread, which is delicious but probably a killer if you
indulge more than once a year.
The histories of so many dishes are surprising. Eaton Mess, Angostura
Bitters, Bombay (not Mumbai) Duck and Worcestershire (if you are
English you’ll just call it Worcester – pronounced wooster - oo
as in book) Sauce are all here, along with many others. Gentleman’s
Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities is a most absorbing
volume and a tasteful gift for any food lover. Delightful.
Gentleman’s Relish – A Compendium of English Culinary Oddities
Author: National Trust
Publisher by: Anova
Price: £6.99
ISBN 9781905400553
No-Oil Cooking
There are many of us now who are overweight and an increasing number who are clinically obese. In some European countries that figure has increased (no pun intended) to 25% of the population. That is a staggering statistic.
We have more overweight people and the weight by which they are “over”
has also increased. The reasons for the rise in weight-related disease
are simple: modern lifestyle and eating habits. We drive more and walk
less. Our jobs often require little movement apart from fingers
sprinting across computer keys. We don’t think we have time to cook
healthy foods and we choose more and more fatty, pre-prepared foods or
takeaways (takeouts).
Sanjeev Kapoor presents us with recipes that are both oil-free (that is
to say no added oil) and are still delicious and satisfying. He is
India’s most celebrated chef and food industry guru. Sanjeev is
increasingly recognised by a discerning overseas audience as an
authority on Indian food and his books and TV series Khana Khazana have
long been popular. No-Oil Cooking has his touch of exotica and common
sense which will be appealing to every nationality of reader.
Cooking with no added oil isn’t difficult... but it’s important to have
recipes that have that taste and mouth-feel that at the end of the meal
give us the sensation of having had “proper” food. It’s no good eating
an oil-free meal and then tucking into a huge box of chocolates because
you feel empty.
The chapters cover everything from drinks to main courses to sweets and
everything in between. The recipes listed don’t read like worthy, noble
and boring healthfood dishes. This is tasty food that just happens to
be good for you. The whole family will enjoy these offerings so you
won’t be confronted with the perennial problem of cooking one meal for
the health-conscious folk and a different one for those who just live
to eat. One meal fits all!
Garlic-Flavoured Rasam is my choice from the Beverages, Soups and
Salads chapter. This is comfort food that is, thankfully, good for you.
It is easy to prepare and that preparation only takes 10 minutes. The
cooking time is just 30 minutes, without constant attention.
Corn Bhel couldn’t be simpler and is the ultimate healthy snack.
Sanjeev uses Green Coriander Chutney and Date and Tamarind Chutney for
this delight and he gives both recipes so you’ll have no excuse not to
make it.
Vegetable Seekh Kebabs would be a great addition to any barbeque. They
would be welcomed by vegetarians who are so often overlooked on these
occasions but it’s also no-guilt munching for those who are looking for
a healthy option. These are so tempting that you’ll need to make enough
for the meat eaters as well.
No-Oil Cooking offers fast, no-fuss food that is full of flavour,
colour and texture. Your body will thank you and so will your family.
No-Oil Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs 295
ISBN 81-7991-279-5
Alan Coxon is Well Preserved
Well, yes, he probably is but we are talking about pickles! (I could
have said that “Alan Coxon is well pickled” but that would be neither
true nor polite.) Alan has had great success with his remarkable
vinegars and so is taking his product range to the next logical step,
using them to great advantage in pickles and chutneys.
Alan is not presenting us with weird concoctions but rather sticking to
vegetables that are familiar, but with that little bit of je ne sais
quoi. The beetroot is often golden, apple is married with beetroot, the
red cabbage is organic, and all are partnered with varieties of Alan’s
celebrated historic vinegars.
Luxury Marinated Onions in Roman Vinaigre
(Product singled out as a favourite by Delia Smith online!)
Alan’s Luxury Marinated Onions in Roman Vinaigre retain the distinctive
and delicious flavour of his Roman Vinaigre, which sets these crisp
British onions apart from your usual pickled onion. You’ll taste the
difference. Save any remaining vinegar to use in cooking.
Add these onions to chicken casseroles and roasts, and serve with cold
beef, eat as part of a traditional ploughman’s lunch with salad and a
gutsy cheese, perk up sandwiches.
About Roman Vinaigre:
Cinnamon is the predominant spice, but with hints of
chamomile that gives a good balance of flavour. It has the most
wonderful rich scent and a slight sweetness of honey. This would be a
terrific glaze for roast pork or used to dress chopped red onion as a
relish with an Indian meal. Use as an addition to salad dressings; as a
dip for crusty bread with a dash of olive oil; add to hot butter- or
egg-based sauces or as a marinade for pork or poultry. Outstanding!
Luxury Golden Baby Beetroots in Roman Vinaigre
(Nominated for a HEFF Diamond Award)
and Luxury Golden Baby Sliced Beetroots in Roman Vinaigre
These unique beetroots were, in fact, popular back in Roman times before the striking but messy red
beetroots became fashionable.
Using the finest golden beetroots grown in Worcestershire and
Staffordshire from heritage seed, Alan’s Luxury Golden Baby Beetroots
have been marinated in his award-winning Roman Vinaigre for maximum
flavour. These little gems are remarkable and tasty, and will fire the
imagination of any real foodie. They should be the next big food trend.
These delicious pickles are also available sliced, in Alan’s Luxury
Golden Baby Sliced Beetroots in Roman Vinaigre.
Serve these golden beets in salads, with cheese, warm with game, and
with cold meats. They also work well dressed with yoghurt and have the
advantage that the colour does not leak into the sauce, so you won’t
have a Barbie-pink extravaganza.
English Apple and Golden Beetroot Chutney with Roman Vinaigre
Alan says that fresh and local has been the key to this chutney’s success. The golden beetroots are grown from
heritage seeds a few miles from Alan’s kitchen and the apples come from
the neighbouring orchard. They are hand-picked the morning of
production which I guess is the culinary equivalent to Cuban cigars
being rolled on ladies’ thighs.
This is a quite outstanding chutney and that is saying a lot when you
consider how many grace the shelves of better supermarkets. English
Apple and Golden Beetroot Chutney with Roman Vinaigre is a great
alternative to an apple sauce for roast pork, game and cold meats. It
is marvellous with cheese sandwiches and quiches and even as a mild
condiment for Indian meals.
Luxury Organic Red Cabbage in Ancient Greek Vinaigre
Only the finest, freshest cabbage has been used in Alan’s
Luxury Organic Red Cabbage in Ancient Greek Vinaigre. Alan uses
hand-sliced organic red cabbage, grown and pickled in the Vale of
Evesham. Alan’s award-winning Vinaigre gives a full and interesting
flavour to the cabbage and sets it apart from the mouth-puckering
varieties that we are accustomed to. This is ideal with cold cuts and
salads but try it with sausages, and use the remaining vinegar in
dressings.
About Ancient Greek Vinaigre:
This is light and floral with a clean acidity but also a
sweet aftertaste. It’s exotic and very different. It will remind you of
rosewater-laced salads from North Africa.
Baby Ruby Beetroots Marinated in Ancient Greek Vinaigre
Cooked in Alan’s award-winning Ancient Greek Vinaigre,
these Baby Ruby Beetroots offer a traditional pickled vegetable but
with a different flavour - almost a sweet and sour quality. Use in the
usual way but keep any remaining vinegar. This, like Alan’s other
pickles, does double duty. You eat the veg and still have a product
that will enhance other dishes.
Perfect for salads, cold meats, pies, with pork or game.
Beetroot and Chilli Chutney with Mediaeval Ale-Gar
This beetroot chutney has been cooked and marinated in
Alan’s award-winning Ale-Gar. The chilli adds just a hint of warming
and exotic spice but it’s not an overpoweringly hot pickle. The taste
is rich and robust and ideal for serving with other strong flavours.
Eat this with mature cheddar, blue cheeses, warm with pork and duck,
with cold meat, and with roast vegetables.
About Ale-Gar:
This is the colour of stout and is slightly reminiscent of
balsamic vinegar. It has a very particular flavour that enhances red
meat so well. It could be an alternative to Worcestershire sauce-based
condiments.
Alan has his own online store where you will find his whole range of products as well as gift hampers. Visit http://www.alancoxon.com/store.php
10 Minutes to Table
Well, that sounded a tall order! Was this going to be a lot of hastily-chopped salad? Perhaps a collection of
toast recipes? Probably publicity for the world’s most expensive
can-opener. No, these are very good recipes that will only take you
(well, OK, a very practised you) 10 minutes or so. Admittedly we are
not talking casseroles, slow braises or chunky roasts but very sensible
food that will have even those who hate the inside of a kitchen signing
up for a bit of cooking.
You might know the author, Xanthe Clay from the Telegraph where she
writes for the weekend section and regularly contributes to the paper.
She also has a weekly webcast on Telegraph TV. Xanthe had a Saturday
Telegraph column, Readers Recipes, which ran for eight years and was
the inspiration for her first book, It’s Raining Plums.
We all know what it’s like to be strapped for time. Life is a constant
juggle with work, family or social activities and it’s often meals that
suffer. It’s tempting to take the quick option of “instant” food. We
all do it but how daft is it to buy fast food that actually takes
longer to prepare than its fresh home-cooked original. We see frozen
pasta with sauce that takes as long to cook as regular pasta, and you
could use that time to make your own additive/E-number-free sauce.
Now, I love cooking but I am aware that there are many out there who do
not. There is no shame in that but you can honestly have a meal on the
table in less time than it would take you to shake a Martini and phone
Wayne at the pizza shop. You’ll save a packet, and your body and your
bank manager will thank you. These dishes are tempting, economic and
fast.
There are 80 10-minute dishes here... well, actually there are also 30
dishes that take less than 5 minutes to make. The chapters are divided
by food type and there is something here for everyone, with plenty of
fish and vegetarian options.
I was expecting a lot of spaghetti but there is, in fact, only one
recipe for pasta... and that is for home-made pasta. Yes, it can be
done in a few minutes with the use of a food processor and a good pasta
machine, but you might need to be a confident cook to tackle that one.
The other recipes are surprising in their sophistication and good
enough to serve to guests.
Rare Beef with Radish, Cress and Pea Salad is hearty and smart. As
Xanthe points out, you could add some baby new potatoes if you can
spare just a few minutes more. Fresh Sardines with Parsley, Spring
Onions and Jersey Royals is light and delicious, and these little fish
are some of the cheapest around.
The most stunning recipe is for Speedy Fish Soup. It isn’t too
expensive to make as it uses salmon and pollack and just a few prawns
and mussels. It looks amazing and would be a lovely dinner party dish.
You’ll spend more time laying the table than cooking.
10 Minutes to Table is a book full of ideas for meals that are not a
compromise. No more excuses for buying TV dinners, buy this book
instead.
10 Minutes to Table
Author: Xanthe Clay
Published by: Mitchell Beazley
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978 1 84533 495 6
In the Mood for Entertaining
The first word that springs to mind is gorgeous. The photographs by Gareth Morgans are first rate but the
illustrations by Cecilia Carlstedt help to elevate this book to gift
quality. The author, Jo Pratt, looks as lovely as the food and the food
is mouth-watering but never too cheffy.
Jo is a familiar face to UK Food TV viewers and this is her second
book. She has a light and conversational style of writing which marries
well with the modern and fuss-cutting concept of the book. There are
little twists on classic recipes, and dishes that are new and fresh,
but always with the time-strapped home cook in mind.
The cover says it’s Delicious Food for all Occasions and Jo has done a
good job of selecting a wide range of dishes to suit those times when
there are just two of you (best friend, partner, favourite auntie),
when it’s a girls/boys night in, when you can’t wriggle out of giving a
dinner party, and when you have to feed a crowd of hungry revellers.
It’s all here and amazingly simple.
Sweet Potato Hash Browns with Sausages and Sweet Chilli Tomatoes, from
the Breakfast and Brunch chapter, makes a nice change from the Full
Monte when you want to gain Brownie points with your partner. (I’ll be
leaving the book open at this page on Saturday night in the hopes that
on Sunday morning... )
Mocha Toffee Sundaes are quick and won’t cost an arm and a leg.
Anything with a hint of melted Mars Bar has got to be good. This is a
dessert that you’ll make time and time again. It has a drop or two of
Tia Maria or brandy to give an adult edge, but even without that
addition I would say it’s too good for the kids.
If you are not into chocolate then Baked Portuguese Custard Tarts will
probably fit the bill. They are lighter than the traditional British
custard tart as this recipe uses filo pastry. You might feel that you
can manage a couple at the end of a meal.
Although I feel myself drawn as if in a trance to the sweet dishes, my
very favourite of recipes is probably that for Aromatic Monkfish Curry
with Toasted Coconut. Monkfish is an ideal fish to use in this dish as
it doesn’t disintegrate when cooked but remains meaty and makes for an
attractive presentation. Jo suggests that tiger prawns would make a
good alternative.
In the Mood for Entertaining is a delight and a feast for both eyes and
taste buds. It’s thoughtful in both design and content and deserves to
be popular.
In the Mood for Entertaining
Author: Jo Pratt
Published by: Michael Joseph – Penguin
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15406-6
Honeybuns Cookies
I wrote a review a while ago (and here it is again for those who missed it) about Honeybuns cakes and the company. Well, now I can add cookies to the list of products that it’s been my pleasure to sample.
They are all gluten-free and delectable. Being individually wrapped,
they are ideal for summer outdoor eating. They are moist and almost a
cake, and they actually taste of the ingredients, which sounds an
obvious statement but there are lots of cookies out there that taste of
nothing but refined sugar.
Almond and Salted Pistachio Cookie is 50% almonds and 14% pistachio. Those are high percentages of the good stuff.
Honeyed Apple Cookie has over 30% apple in various forms as well as real honey.
Triple Chocolate Tinker Cookies are perhaps the best chocolate cookies
I have eaten. They contain a whopping 35% Belgian chocolate and you can
tell it’s there. A box of these cookies would make an ideal gift for
any chocolate lover and a change from a box of chocolates, and I very
much hope my husband is reading this.
I am now off to apply for a job with Honeybuns as chief sampler.
Honeybuns and Cakes
This little company, Honeybuns, is another BBC Good Food
Show find. The stand was a delight, the proprietor, Emma, is lovely,
young and enthusiastic, and the cakes are to die for.
Emma says “I had a hare-brained scheme to pedal around Oxford
delivering my home-made cakes to delis and cafes during the late 1990s.
We've still got the bike leant up against our Bee Shack Cafe wall. Some
visitors assume it's just an attractive prop, but it truly is the
original facilitator of the Honeybuns enterprise!
Now based at Naish Farm in beautiful Dorset, our growth has been
organic and gentle. Everything is still made completely by hand without
rushing and we take a holistic approach, considering our environment
and community in everything we do.”
I have had the pleasure of tasting a selection of Honeybuns products.
Many are gluten-free and all are moist and utterly delicious. It’s not
only this humble writer who reckons these cakes are high-end. Honeybuns
have a list of awards as long as your arm, culminating with the
Blackmore Vale Media Taste of Dorset Awards 2008 - Most Inspirational
Food Business, and The Great Taste Awards 2007 Gold*** Great Taste
Award.
Heathcliffe Brownie, Cranberry and Pecan Flapjack, and Coppice Cake
were my selections from the tin of Minis. Each of the
individually-wrapped squares of cake was fresh, moist and had the
texture of freshly baked and home-made goods. The Heathcliff Brownie
has a subtle orange flavour which is admired even by those who don’t
normally enjoy anything chocolatey (I had to hide the tin after I
foolishly allowed my husband to try a brownie). The Cranberry and Pecan
Flapjack has a lovely hint of maple syrup, and the Coppice Cake would
be a marvellous afternoon tea-time treat, fruity and scrumptious.
The quality of these cakes is unbeatable and the packaging makes them
ideal gifts. Emma offers a choice of attractive tins of cakes that
would be brilliant presents for almost anyone of any age. Because the
cakes are individually wrapped they stay fresh for quite a while but
they can equally be frozen with no ill effects.
You can visit Honeybuns at www.honeybuns.co.uk where you will find an
online shop as well as all kinds of nutritional information
Great Party Fondues
Peggy Fallon has done it again, with another edible offering of temptations both savoury and sweet. I have
recently reviewed books by Peggy on ice cream and dips and they both
have the same easy style which encourages the reader to believe that
they too can produce stunning food.
Great Party Fondues is bound to be popular. Those who lack courage in
the kitchen will warm to a fondue because some of the responsibility
for the meal lies with the guests. Others with a bit more culinary
savvy will enjoy the amazing variety of fondues collected here.
My fondue set dates back to the 1970s, shortly after cheese was
invented. It has a ceramic bowl in blood red (I did mention that it was
the 70s) for Swiss Fondue, and a metal pot for meat fondue. Well,
having invited family and people I liked for meals I finally concluded
that you could only present fondue once a year to each guest... so the
fondue set has hardly seen the light of day in a couple of decades. But
it seems that there are more than two kinds of fondue, and the
abandoned wedding present is now back in full swing.
The book has chapters on Cheese Fondues, Savoury Fondues, Dessert
Fondues and Dipping Sauces. There are 70 or so recipes so you’ll not be
chained to the traditional classic Swiss, although I do love it and
it’s a good start for a fondue virgin. Welsh Rarebit (no, it doesn’t
contain rabbit) would be a winner for a cold evening. This has bite and
tang and is based on the traditional recipe which is more often seen
garnishing a slice of toast.
Tomato-Vodka Fondue is going to introduce much of the world to a sauce
that is already popular on pasta and enjoyed throughout the USA. It’s
not quite so well known worldwide and you’ll wonder why when you taste
this. Use roast vegetables to dunk but also fried polenta cubes or
meatballs for a real Italian feast. This couldn’t be easier to make and
it’s a stunner.
For a smart dinner party try Tabletop Fish Fry. Shrimp, tuna, scallops
and squid are marinated in an oriental sauce and then fried in peanut
oil. This would be a convivial ice-breaker and very chic when served
with a selection of dips, but my favourite savoury recipe is Creamy
Bagna Cauda. This is a punchy fondue of garlic and anchovies which are,
in this particular recipe, tamed by the addition of cream. This is a
warm rather than hot fondue and would be an ideal addition to a buffet
table.
The sweet Dessert Fondues are to die for. Peanut Butter Fondue with
Chocolate Swirls is outstanding, and if you serve it with chunks of
fruit you can call it a health food. Dulce de Leche Fondue has a hint
of summer when served with pineapple and semi-frozen bananas, although
a pound cake or Madeira cake would be my choice if I had to use
anything other than a big spoon!
Great Party Fondues is an attractive book (pictures by Alexandra
Grablewski) and full of innovation. This is cooking at its most simple
but the results are impressive. Dust off your fondue set and have some
retro fun. That’s what I’ll be doing.
Great Party Fondues
Author: Peggy Fallon
Published by John Wiley and Sons
Price: £11.99, $16.95US
ISBN 978-0-470-23979-7
Spices – A Global History
This is another in the celebrated Edible Series by Reaktion Books and I’ll heap as much praise on this volume as all the others in the collection.
What is so special about these books? Each has a different author (in
this case Fred Czarra who is an International Education consultant and
Adjunct Professor of World Geography at St. Mary’s College, Maryland)
but the format is the same. Iconic images, well-researched text
covering just one food item which is explored in depth. In this case
it’s Spices and this truly is a Global History.
This isn’t a cookbook but rather, as the title implies, a history book.
Don’t reach for the “Back” button! You’ll like this history book as its
focus is on food not famous folks. There isn’t an exam at the end of
your reading session so you can just relax and enjoy a thoroughly
riveting read. Spices have literally shaped the modern world so the
story that starts in the dim and distant past still has implications
today.
There are five main spices that have had a worldwide impact and they
are: cinnamon, cloves, chilli pepper, nutmeg and pepper. Their very
existence has encouraged exploration, war and slavery, and they have
been shrouded in mystery and legend.
No, this isn’t a recipe book although there is plenty of information
about how spices have been used down the ages. This is a voyage of
exotic discovery that will tempt all food lovers. You’ll be transported
to paradise islands where monstrous birds made their nests from
cinnamon branches. Cloves were said to come from a hidden valley and
were sold by genies. In The Book of One Thousand and One Nights, Sinbad
the Sailor told of his journey to the Spice Islands,s and the route
that he describes had existed for over 3000 years!
Spices have changed the world more than any other food (Brussels
sprouts are rarely mentioned in historic tomes) and Fred Czarra helps
us understand why. The exploration for spices was the ancient world’s
equivalent of sending a man to the moon, and Spices – A Global History
is a riveting read.
Spices – A Global History
Author: Fred Czarra
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99, $15.95US
ISBN 978-1-86189-426-7
The Asian Grill
Yes, it’s a BBQ book but one with a difference. This will capture the imagination of those who long for
something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding,
burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal
adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The
charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of
marinades and condiments.
Corinne Trang is an international chef and food authority. Her heritage
is Asian and European, and she is one of the few who are truly at home
with both genres; but more importantly she loves food. Might sound a
strange and rather obvious statement but there are many chefs and
food-industry gurus who are just doing a job, but Corinne is a chef, a
food professional, and a foodie with all the passionate enthusiasm that
word implies.
I am not a lover of Fusion food as it is so often a compromise. Some
chefs have built reputations on marrying ingredients which should never
even have been introduced. Corinne’s food is easily described as good
food with Asian flavour. There is nothing here that will bring the cry
of horror, nothing that jars, but plenty that looks good on paper and
even better on a plate.
The Asian Grill will gently lead you away (you can return from time to
time) from ketchup, mustard and liquid smoke and will playfully nudge
you in the direction of soy sauce, sesame oil and mirin. All the
ingredients are available in a supermarket near you or via mail order.
The cooking techniques don’t require a training course and you probably
already have the equipment, so you are ready to dazzle.
Back-yard grilling isn’t famed for having a sophisticated meal as its
end-product. It’s more often burgers like hockey pucks and flavourless
chicken. It’s rarely the food that is the centre of attention but
rather the grilling process that encourages conviviality. We marvel at
the “skill” of (mostly) men who only don an apron when the smell of
lighter fuel is in the air. Grilling is simple and was the first
cooking method. Cavemen didn’t say “I’ll rustle up a nice
soufflé for lunch” or “How about a delicately toasted English
muffin with passion-fruit jelly?” No, dear reader, it would likely be
“Pass me the pinny, Unk, I’m grilling tonight.”
Corinne has a flair for flavour, not only for the dishes that are
grilled, but for all the associated breads, rices, noodles, and even
sweets and drinks. There is everything you will need in this one
vibrant and attractive volume. You will be able to compose meals around
the grill that will be elegant but still fun both to cook and to eat.
I love lamb and The Asian Grill has a recipe that is a joy. Lamb
Marinated in Yellow Spice Paste is flavoured with a pungent mix which
elevates these kebabs into something mouthwatering. Corinne suggests
serving these with Scallion Flat Bread from this same book. Pork
Patties could be an alternative filling for that bread, and this recipe
has a distinct Vietnamese flavour with fish sauce and lemon grass. BBQ
Pork is Corinne’s version of the Cantonese classic, Char Siu, often
seen hanging in windows in Chinatowns the world over. This will always
be a crowd-pleaser.
Perhaps my favourite recipe is that for Spicy Sweet Soy Sauce Marinated
Chicken. It couldn’t be easier to prepare but the resulting bird is a
long way from the usual lack-lustre poultry of by-gone BBQs ...or I
might choose Spicy Squid Salad ...but Asian Clambake is impressive
...although...
The Asian Grill is a book stuffed with tempting and flavourful food.
You don’t need to know anything about cooking Asian food, and even a
novice griller should be confident of a lot of compliments; everything
you need to know is here. Corinne Trang has once again produced a book
that will soon be stained through much use, and that’s a fine accolade
for any cookbook.
The Asian Grill
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US
ISBN: 978-0-8118-4631-8
The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook
No, dear reader, you don’t have to run off with a farmer to be able to enjoy this book. You won’t need to
have furtive visits to your local library proclaiming in a loud voice
that you truly are a farmer’s wife to be eligible for a peek between
these covers. The farmers’ wives in question are truly the authors of
this book, as they submitted their blue-ribbon family recipes to be
shared.
The Farmer’s Wife was a monthly magazine which was published from 1893
to 1939. The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook is a product of the magazine and
offers the modern cookbook collector a rare opportunity to learn more
about the eating habits of rural communities in the USA. Seems they ate
quite well if these recipes are anything to go by.
The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook has a wealth of recipes that are mostly
valid for the modern cook. The ingredients are simple and inexpensive
and that should be enough to entice any credit-crunched foodie to take
a look at this volume. There are dishes here that will seem rather
retro but that is the charm of this book. There will be things that
you’ll remember from your grandmother’s kitchen (assuming your
grandmother lived in America, that is), or will be totally new to you.
The Quick Breads chapter offers Biscuits. These are delicious but a
minefield of intercontinental misunderstanding. A biscuit, in this
case, is like a scone if you are English. A scone is like an American
biscuit. A biscuit, for the English, is the same as an American cookie.
A cookie is what the English assume is the ritual accompaniment to a
glass of American milk. A glass of milk to the English is...a glass of
milk.
The Chicken section of Meats has some classic delights that are seldom
seen these days apart from gracing the tables of a traditional diner.
Creamed Chicken is rich and sustaining and a great way to use up
left-over poultry. The Ground (minced) Meat section has Swedish
Meatballs and Swedish Kol Dolma and probably reflects the Scandinavian
heritage of the magazine’s readers and contributors.
The Fish chapter isn’t huge but that’s not surprising when you consider
that most farms in the US were/are a long way from the coast. Good use
is therefore made of canned fish, so these recipes are excellent
store-cupboard meals for the modern home cook. Salmon Loaf is simple to
prepare and an economic way of spinning out a 418-gram tin of fish to
feed 4-6 people.
There is a gem of a recipe here that I remember from holidays in
Dubuque, Iowa. It’s a Moulded Salad and I had never come across such a
thing. It’s a cold gelatine dish of cottage cheese and pineapple set in
a lemon jelly. This might not sound appealing but it’s an
unsophisticated winner.
The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook isn’t a glossy, picture-packed,
celebrity-promoting extravaganza. This is simple home cooking that
won’t break the bank. It’s both a memory archive and also a working
recipe book that will be enjoyed by food historians and food
enthusiasts.
The Farmer’s Wife Cookbook
Authors: Lots of Farmers Wives
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $14.95US £9.99
ISBN 978-0-7603-3489-8
La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Some of you, my dear readers, might be able to translate that title with ease (education is a marvellous
thing). The Gateway to the Indies is my stab at it but why is it a
French title for a book of Indian food? The subtitle is The legacy of
France in Indian regional cuisine and, yes, there is indeed a region of
India that was a little piece of France ...till 1954.
I had already some idea about Pondicherry as my father had spent time
there in the 1940s (his friend, Taffy, being “deported” to India for
having a liaison with the daughter of a civil servant) but I had no
idea that the French food connection had lasted so long. It’s subtle
but unmistakable.
There are in fact deux Portes des Indes restaurants, one in London and
the other in Brussels, where it originated. Not probably the city with
the closest of Indian connections but evidently one which was open to
new culinary trends. La Porte des Indes is part of the Blue Elephant
empire and has the same sumptuous decor, that has become the trademark
of both restaurants.
The vibrant driving forces behind both the restaurant and the cookbook
are Mehernosh and Sherin Mody. The book has also benefited from the
skills of food and travel writer John Hellon and we have the gorgeous
results of their collaboration. It’s contemporary, bright and full of
amazing close-up shots by celebrated photographer Tony le Duc.
But the food is the star. There are familiar dishes but even these have
been given the La Porte twist. I hadn’t expected to see Chicken Tikka
Masala, which has become a cliché of Anglicised Indianish food.
This dish, however, is something a bit smart and has a sauce of
turmeric yellow. A cut above the original.
A signature dish of La Porte des Indes is Poulet Rouge (Chicken in a
Creamy Red Sauce) but it is easy for a home cook to make this dish.
It’s rich and stunning and just what you’ll cook if you want to impress
on a budget. Chicken thighs are economic and the other ingredients are
readily available in your local supermarket.
Duck is one of those archetypical French ingredients so here we have
Magret de Canard Pulivaar (Roasted Duck Breasts in a Spicy Tamarind
Sauce). The meat might make you think of romantic bistro meals in Paris
but the marinade and sauce are all Indian. Madame Lourdes Swamy of
Pondicherry is the originator of this recipe.
This is a restaurant cookbook so it has a chapter devoted to cocktails,
and just the names will transport you to the subcontinent. Monsoon
(Midori, melon vodka and champagne), Tamarind Martini (gin, limoncello
and tamarind puree) are just a couple and there are also some lovely
desserts.
Indian restaurant desserts are often a disappointing bunch but La Porte
des Indes Cookbook has some unique and classy ones. Payasam (green
lentils and tender coconut pudding) is a stunner but it would demand a
visit to an Asian supermarket. Chocolate and Chikki Kulfi is Belgian
Chocolate and Praline Ice Cream and a true liaison of two of the
world’s classic culinary cultures.
La Porte des Indes Cookbook is something a bit special. It’s modern and
full of innovation but it cherishes its French/Indian roots which have
combined to create a cuisine with touches of both. A joy to read and to
cook from.
La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Authors: Mehernosh Mody, Sherin Mody and John Hellon
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £20.00
ISBN 1-86205-643-9
Cook in Boots
Ravinder Bhogal has been described as the Fanny Craddock for the next generation by the controversial
chef Gordon Ramsay. Mrs. Craddock was iconic, eccentric and often rude
but Ravinder is rather attractive, humorous and could perhaps be
described as a Nigela Lawson for the modern glutton. Ravinder does, in
fact, consider herself a ‘greedy girl about town’. It’s evident from
this, her first book, that good food is high up on this young lady’s
agenda.
The author is a fashion and beauty journalist and Cook in Boots
reflects elements of this other career. It’s a stunner, with striking
photographs from Jason Lowe, although Ravinder can take some credit for
the presentation as she was the food stylist for the project.
The dishes are amusing and designed to entice those of us who have
differing fancies with every change of mood and circumstance. There is
comfort food; I lost my man (or woman) food, PMT chocolate aid, night
with the telly meals, as well as food for the end of the month when the
piggy bank is empty. There is some standard fare here but lots more
that is trendy and fresh.
There is a chapter entitled Hard-up Food: For when you’ve spent all
your lolly on your Louboutins. A long name but catchy and would be even
more so if I knew what a Louboutin was. This chapter offers some tasty
dishes such as Chickpea and Potato Curry which uses time-saving tins of
chickpeas (no over-night soaking). The Fork Me, Spoon Me: The food of
love and rude food chapter has some sexy platefuls such as the classic
Grilled Oysters with Garlic and Parsley Breadcrumbs (the archetypal
aphrodisiac) and Fig Tarte Tatin which might well be this summer’s
signature dish ...at least it will be chez nous.
There are lots of easy but classy dishes here and Pizza with Potatoes
and Thyme is on that list as it has such simple sophistication. It’s
part of the Bread, Pasta, Potatoes chapter but it could just as
reasonably have been included in the aforementioned Hard-up Food
section or even Hangover Food. But Oreo Cookie Cheesecake will be my
choice from the Comfort Food chapter and probably from the whole book.
It’s a flexible recipe that will work equally as well with other
sandwich biscuits such as Bourbons and Custard Creams. Ravinder says
that this is best eaten in bed with a spoon like a spade. A girl after
my own heart.
Cook in Boots might be the winner in the Debut Cookbook category this
year. It is, I don’t doubt, going to be on the Christmas list of any
greedy girl (or boy) with a sense of dash and style. A fine selection
of Mood Food.
Cook in Boots
Author: Ravinder Bhogal
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-00-729117-5
Family Meals for a Fiver
I am an unashamed supporter of the Good Housekeeping Institute and their books. I have a fine collection
of cookbooks, as you would expect a reviewer to have, but, with a few
exceptions, I reach for a cookbook of this nature rather than that of a
celebrity chef ... or celebrity-turned-chef.
Family Meals for a Fiver could not have been published at a better
time. Our news is filled with tales of job loss, home repossession and
MPs who are self-indulgent moat-digging, duck-housing, flat-flippers.
More of us are watching the pennies but we want to eat well and this
book could be a welcome aid to living the low-budget high-life.
There is a generation of people that have not enjoyed the benefit of
cooking lessons at school (I hated mine with a will known to few but I
can now cook) and might not even have had the advantage of a parent to
encourage them in any kind of kitchen escapade. Family Meals for a
Fiver will be most appealing to the culinarily bewildered as it offers
over 250 tried and tested recipes that are simple.
The Basics chapter will be a great help to the novice cook but perhaps
some of us more practised home chefs could consider some of this
advice. A well-stocked store cupboard will provide you with almost
instant and economic meals. A freezer stuffed with some well-chosen
ingredients will add to your repertoire of fast home-made meals, rather
than resorting to frozen ready meals; you can reserve those for
absolute emergencies (the dog has just had puppies or the shed has
burnt down).
You won’t be feeling noble, virtuous and self-denying if you use these
recipes. They don’t have that cutting corners, budgety feel of cheap
and nasty food. Family Meals for a Fiver offers sound advice for making
the best of the foods that you might normally buy. Why throw away food
when you can turn that food into tasty meals. Meat is expensive these
days so stretching it for another day will save money. The dishes here
are delicious and range from the exotic and trendy to the traditional
and comforting.
Risotto Milanese is a classic and sophisticated enough for an informal
dinner party. It’s easier to prepare than you might imagine and you can
adapt this recipe by adding peas for a bit of colour or some left over
ham or chicken for a change. Bacon and Garden Vegetable Risotto
has...well, bacon and garden vegetables but these can be varied with
the change of season.
Desserts and puds don’t have to be relegated to memory. There is a
lovely selection here of well-known favourites as well as some
contemporary dishes. Treacle Tart is always on my list of sweet
indulgence but I’ll include Toffee Cheesecake in future. But for a
sheer “why didn’t I think of that” moment there is Cheat’s Chocolate
Pots which involves only chocolate and the crafty use of a carton of
fresh custard.
Family Meals for a Fiver is a lovely cookbook with food that is
appetising and surprisingly thrifty. There is a picture for almost
every recipe and the cooking tips and ideas will be welcomed by both
the novice and the experienced cook. I recommend this one.
Family Meals for a Fiver
Author: The Good Housekeeping Institute
Published by: Collins and Brown – Anova Books
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84340-537-5
Dal and Kadhi
Sanjeev Kapoor is the Indian chef with the golden touch. His acclaimed TV series, Khana Khazana, has
enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best
Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is
the popularity of this man.
Dal and Kadhi presents regional comfort food at its best and the book
is as delightful as the food. Each recipe is accompanied by a
photograph by Bharat Bhirangi who has a talent for showing these dishes
in a mouth-watering fashion. You’ll be planning your next meal before
you leave the bookshop.
What could be better than a flavourful dal or kadhi to eat with rice or
roti? Your meal might be humble or you could add a dal to an array of
other dishes to make a sumptuous and satisfying spread. They range in
texture from the rich and substantial to the light and refreshing to
suit the season or the occasion. These are the dishes that people miss
when they leave home and crave when they are in far-off countries.
This book offers 45 recipes that you will want to add to your culinary
repertoire no matter what your home region. They are a broad-based
selection of recipes so there is sure to be something to please every
palate. Dal Makhni is perhaps the most celebrated both in India and
overseas where it has become a restaurant speciality, although seldom
cooked in an authentic style. Maharashtrian Kadhi is a traditional dish
and represents India’s culinary diversity in a most delicious way.
All these dals and kadhis are tempting but as with life in general
there are firsts among equals and I have picked a few that are
particularly tempting. Rajasthani Baati ki Dal is made with split green
gram (dhuli moong dal) and Bengal gram (chana dal) and the resulting
dal is served with traditional baked balls of dough.
Bhindi ni Kadhi is bound to be on my list as I love ladies’ fingers
(bhinda/ bhindi). This is a soupy combination of yogurt and gram flour
(besan) flavoured with spices. The vegetables remain a little crisp
giving the kadhi an interesting texture.
Dal Hari Bhari contains spinach and fenugreek leaves, onions and
spices, and Sanjeev uses it to tempt those who would not normally enjoy
green vegetables. This would be an easy meal when served just with rice.
Dal and Kadhi is an Aladdin’s cave of ideas for quick, tasty and
healthy dishes. One expects lovely books from Sanjeev Kapoor and this
is another in that collection that never disappoints. You don’t have to
spend a lot of money to enjoy good food. This book will show you the
way in fine flavourful fashion.
Dal and Kadhi
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-415-1
Noodles Every Day
To the untutored this might seem an uninspiring
proposition, but it’s perfectly possible to eat noodles every day and
perhaps even several times a day without feeling as though it’s an
endurance test.
Corinne Trang is a US based author, radio and TV broadcaster on the
subject of Asian food. She is a well respected authority on foods from
China and Southeast Asia and has been described as the “Julia Child of
Asian Cuisine” by the Washington Post and me. Corinne has penned
numerous books and has won a raft of awards - her very first won Best
Asian Cuisine Book in the World at the World Cookbook Fair. Not too
shabby!
Corinne has a passion for food and not just Asian food (a casual
conversation with this lady about anything from bread to breakfast will
have you drooling). Her background, a combination of French and
Chinese, equips her very well to take her place in the culinary arena
of both East and West.
Noodles Every Day is an attractive volume with marvellous photographs
by Maura McEvoy. It’s more than a cookbook – this is an encyclopaedia
of all things noodley. Every possible variety of noodle is considered
and a wealth of recipes is offered. This is the original fast food and
it’s both healthy and sustaining which is more than can be said for
most of the popular western alternatives.
Every noodle type has its recipes but you can mix and match to suit
your own taste. The five noodle categories are Wheat, Egg, Buckwheat,
Rice and Cellophane but there is an additional chapter which covers
Buns, Dumplings, and Spring Rolls. Although these are not noodles they
do fall under the “snack” umbrella as do some of the noodle dishes.
Corinne introduces you to stock making and some typical Asian
condiments, as well as basic ingredients. You will have all you need to
be ever ready, with the addition of a few fresh items, for a quick but
impressive meal... and fast!
Wheat Noodles with Spicy Ground Pork is a Szechuan classic. Dishes from
this region are prized for their robust flavours and this one is no
exception although the stir-fried Napa cabbage (Chinese Leaves) adds
sweetness. Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Beef and Broccoli is another
meat and vegetable recipe and a worldwide restaurant favourite but it’s
easy to make at home. It’s flavourful, rich and comforting.
One of the most striking recipes in Noodles Every Day is that for Egg
Noodle Soup with Five-spice Duck. This would make a smart dinner party
dish with its succulent, aromatic meat and the soup served on the side.
For sheer luxury though, Crab-flavoured Noodles with Velvety Crab Sauce
and Green Peas takes some beating. It’s a simple recipe but has a
cheffy quality about it. The crab-flavoured noodles can be found in
larger Chinese food stores but if you can’t get hold of them you can
substitute regular thin egg noodles.
Noodles Every Day is an instructive and inspiring book. It’s
thoughtfully written with the western cook in mind but Corinne Trang is
never pedestrian in her choice of recipes. This isn’t just another
Asian cookbook but rather a vehicle which will help you to appreciate
all the subtle flavours and textures that Asian food has to offer.
Noodles Every Day will surely be another award winner.
Noodles Every Day
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95 US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6143-4
Great Party Dips
Isn’t there something comforting about a dip? They are uniquely versatile, either being the focus of a
solitary evening alone (you, the TV, a dip and dippers) or being classy
dishes on a special buffet table (for dozens of well-dressed guests
with differing tastes), and all events in between. There are few foods
that can so successfully encompass the informal and the grand.
The author, Peggy Fallon, has eight or so cookbooks to her credit and
has contributed to dozens more as a recipe developer and tester. She
has taught at various cooking schools and has run her own catering
company. Peggy’s books have always been practical and attractive, and
Great Party Dips is no exception. The photography by Alexandra
Grablewski is scrumptious.
There are 60 dips listed here that cover the whole of dipdom and indeed
dipperdom. Cool Dips and Spreads, Salsas and Such, Warm Dips and
Spreads, and Dependable Dunkers are the chapter titles and those
chapters offer far more than mayo with curry and ketchup and a dry
cracker.
Peggy has included some of the best classic dips like Potted Shrimp
(OK, so I am British and bound to give this delight a plug), and Bagna
Cauda (perhaps the most celebrated of Italian dips which always adds an
air of sophistication to a gathering), but there is so much that is new
and inventive.
Chicken Liver Pate with Marsala and Capers is a great improvement on
shop-bought pate. If you could find one of this quality in a fine deli
then its price would give you a fit. It’s an Italian-inspired recipe
and has the addition of anchovy paste. It makes all the difference to
the recipe but does not impart any kind of fishy taste. It’s there for
the rich salty tang and is an essential ingredient.
Smoked salmon in any style is luxurious and Peggy has a Smoked Salmon
Spread with Scotch Whisky. It couldn’t be easier to make, has few
ingredients and you won’t have to buy the most expensive slices of
salmon. A classy spread for a reasonable price.
It’s not often that I prefer a contemporary recipe over the original,
but Great Party Dips has Brie en Croute which is quite marvellous in
its form and simplicity. Traditional Brie en Croute has pastry as the
housing for the cheese but Peggy’s version uses a small hollowed loaf
of bread, which is more practical and less of a fiddle than sheets of
floppy pastry. Her garnishes of apricot jam and Amaretto or Brandy (I
would go for Amaretto as it marries so well with apricots) elevate this
into a real centre-piece.
Great Party Dips is a book to buy and use. It has something for
everyone and for every occasion. It’s a must for anyone who loves
entertaining a crowd but needs to keep an eye on the pennies. The
choice of dips and spreads runs from the rustic to the regal and from
trendy to traditional. A real winner and great value for money.
Great Party Dips
Author: Peggy Fallon
Published by: Wiley
Price: £11.99, $16.95 US
ISBN 978-0-470-23978-0
World Vegetarian Classics
This is an amazing work of international, classic and delicious food and it happens to be vegetarian. There
are 200 recipes in World Vegetarian Classics which have been tailored
to the needs of the western home cook. It’s more than just a cookbook
though. This is an archive of some of the best vegetarian food the
world has to offer.
The author, Celia Brooks Brown, is a favourite face on food TV in
Britain. She has an infectious enthusiasm for her subject and has done
much to dispel the myth that vegetarian food is necessarily bland,
beige and boring. Celia is an attractive American who has made her home
in London and takes full advantage of the array of ethnic and fresh
foods on offer. She also has a regular column in The Times which allows
her to share her adventures of working an allotment.
This large-format volume has photography by Gus Filgate who must be one
of the most respected food photographers around. The book is further
enhanced by the contributions of some of the foremost authorities on
specific cuisines. This reads like a Who’s Who of the wise and worthy
of the food world. Marlena Spieler has over 50 cookbooks to her credit
and many of them award winners. She kicks off the North American and
Canada chapter with her view on regional food history and some charming
memories. Sri Owen is the expert for Southeast Asian cuisine and she is
probably the undisputed expert on the subject. Each region has its own
culinary giant to add weight to this already notable cookbook.
Celia has chosen recipes that are authentically vegetarian. That is to
say that they are not meatless versions of non-vegetarian dishes (a
bacon sandwich without the bacon somehow just doesn’t work). These are
recipes that started as vegetarian and have remained that way. Every
region has its traditional specialities that might now be either
internationally celebrated, like for instance Spanakopita (Greek
spinach pie with feta cheese), or might remain culinary secrets such as
Arshda Madnov (macaroni baked in yogurt with feta cheese and
vegetables) from Armenia.
World Vegetarian Classics has many lovely dishes but my favourites
would include Kai Look Koie (Son-in-Law Eggs) from Thailand which is so
simple but stunning nonetheless, Khagina (Egg Torte) from Afghanistan
which is a fresh take on Spanish Omelette, and Akara with Pilipili
(Bean Cakes with Chilli Sauce) from Nigeria.
I am not a vegetarian although I choose to eat very little meat and
almost no red meat. I do, on the other hand, eat and enjoy all
vegetables apart from Brussels sprouts which I hope never to invite
across my threshold. I find World Vegetarian Classics to have great
appeal even for carnivores. You won’t be eating these dishes because
they are good for you (although they are) but because they are always
inspiring, often exotic, and all are thoroughly delicious.
World Vegetarian Classics
Author: Celia Brooks Brown
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-849-1
Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook
I have wanted to review this book for ages. Good Housekeeping have a marvellous range of books and I’ll be
reviewing more in future but the Step-by-Step cookbook is rather
special. I already have the Good Housekeeping Cooking Compendium which
was first published in 1952 with reprints till 1959. That book with its
thousands of black and white photographs (with a few daring colour
shots of iced cakes) held such fascination for me that it was my
regular Sunday morning “reading” matter between the ages of three and
ten when we finally bought a TV that worked.
Perhaps it was leafing through hundreds of recipes with their
associated step-by-step photographic instructions that encouraged me to
believe that I too could cook...when I was tall enough to reach the
chopping block. None of us are born cooks so a good confidence-boosting
recipe book is essential (unless you were fortunate enough to have a
mum, auntie or gran to teach you the basics and a few family recipes).
Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook boasts 650 easy-to-follow
techniques and 400 triple-tested recipes, and those recipes are
contemporary and for modern living. The Good Housekeeping Institute was
set up in 1924 and the world has changed since then. We have access to
a broader spectrum of foods; we have kitchen gadgets unheard of by our
great grandmothers who would probably consider themselves lazy if they
sat down to peel potatoes. We expect to spend less time in the kitchen
but we want to present healthy and delicious meals.
Each chapter covers a food topic, starting with Stocks and Soups and
progressing through Fish, Meat, Vegetables to Cakes and Preserves and
everything in between. There are sections on Herbs and Spices, Freezing
and Drying, Microwaves and information about equipment which you might
find interesting should you be setting up your first kitchen.
The Meat and Poultry chapters have some of the best butchery
illustrations I have seen. The Fruit and Nuts chapter has everything
from hulling strawberries to cracking coconuts. Sweet and Savoury
Breads chapter offers advice on hand-made breads and also on using a
bread machine. For the more adventurous and those with a sweet tooth
there is comprehensive information on working with sugar, and the
Chocolate pages are equally detailed.
So, we have discussed the 650 techniques and now we can enjoy the food!
The recipes are broad-based and include some classics and some ethnic
dishes. This isn’t a themed cookbook so its appeal will be universal
but that’s not a hard status to achieve when there are 400 recipes to
choose from.
I have quite a few favourites from this book and it has taken me as
much time to reduce the list to manageable proportions as it did to
select the dishes in the first place. Rabbit Casserole with Prunes
(don’t pull that face, try it and you’ll love it), Chilli Onions with
Goat’s Cheese (a lovely summer starter or light lunch), Easy Pear and
Toffee Tarte Tatin (it's easy!), Garlic Cheese Pizza (home-made pizza
is always a winner)... and I could go on!
Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook is an ideal wedding present,
house-warming gift or subtle hint to leave home (they will be fine
armed with this volume). I am just as impressed by the photographic
instruction as I expected and perhaps more impressed by the recipes
than I had anticipated. Amazing value for money.
Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook
Author: Good Housekeeping Institute
Published by: Collins and Brown – Anova
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-84340-413-2
The Blue Elephant Cookbook
This must surely be the most celebrated of Thai restaurant empires. It would be diminishing the class and
the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from
the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and
thoroughly impressive.
The Blue Elephant has a fine reputation wherever you might find it. and
the cookbook now allows its followers to replicate its dishes in their
home kitchens. Those who have never had the pleasure of visiting a Blue
Elephant will soon appreciate the attraction.
Thai food in general has gained worldwide popularity over the past
decade. More of us have the opportunity to travel to Thailand and also
to visit Thai restaurants in our home countries, and we want to try
those dishes for ourselves. The Blue Elephant Cookbook will offer you a
marvelous array of recipes that represent the very essence of Thai food
with all its vibrant flavours.
Blue Elephant recipes are authentic, attractive and tempting. They are
not over-taxing for the competent home cook, and the ingredients are
all availiable either from your favourite supermarket’s Asian food
aisle, from a specialist Thai food store or by mail order via the
internet. You’ll not only learn how to make soups, starters, salads,
main dishes and desserts but also curry pastes and sauces.
Thai Fish Cakes will be instantly recognised by travellers returning
from sun-kissed Thai resorts. They are delicately soft with a crunch
supplied by a garnish of peanuts and refreshing lettuce. Serve this
with Cucumber Sauce (recipe in this book) and you have a delicious
snack or light lunch, or combine with other dishes as part of a Thai
buffet.
Stir-Fried Seafood with Garlic and Peppercorns (Seafood Krathiam Prik
Thai) is elegant and flavourful and would be an ideal “special” meal.
OK, the prawns, scallops and crab are not cheap but this recipe makes
the best of that seafood, and the finished result is stunning. The base
is Blue Elephant Special Sauce which you can easily make and freeze for
future use.
Tuk’s Duck Salad (Laab Ped) is a dish devised by the aforementioned Tuk
who is a chef at the Blue Elephant in London. The duck is grilled and
flavoured with a spice paste and garnished with fried shallots,
chillies, fresh coriander and salad. A simple dish to prepare but it
has great impact.
The Blue Elephant Cookbook is a jewel of a volume and definitely among
my favourite Thai cookbooks. It will be snapped up by lovers of classic
Thai food as well as those who are regular diners at The Blue Elephant
restaurants. A lovely book.
The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Author: Chefs of Blue Elephant.
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-303-8
Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria
We chose a Tuesday evening to visit this little corner of Clapham, and it had all the makings of an
uninspiring event. The weather was cold and dull (this is England in
spring so what do you expect) and the restaurants we passed along the
way were mostly devoid of clients. Those eateries that had signs of
life were peopled by a couple of paying customers (placed prominently
by windows or doors) or sadder still, by bored waiting staff who seemed
set for a long and fruitless night. What would our destination hold in
store?
Donna Margherita was buzzing! It was evident that this restaurant had
been discovered by the regular Jacks and Jills of Lavender Hill and
they are making good use of it. There seemed to be regulars who were
warmly greeted by Enrico, the co-owner, as well as a table of some
dozen or so 30-somethings. This was looking good! A restaurant with few
empty tables in the chill of a financial crisis speaks for itself and
the covered outside area (including a heater, thank goodness) suggests
that this spot is expected to be popular all summer.
This isn’t a huge impersonal restaurant but one rather suggesting a
rustic sitting-room, but without the manufactured rusticity of so many
Italian establishments. This was a cosy, brick walled haven from the
traffic of Clapham and Battersea. The sideboard heaving with antipasti
and the unpretentious wood tables add to the appeal.
The menu was a surprise. It’s extensive and very well priced. There is
an additional weekly Specials menu which offers tempting and reasonable
food, and a wine list that seemed rather good value with wine by the
glass on several of those listed. Pricey wine is so often the pitfall
of eating out, but not so here.
We ordered a selection of the aforementioned antipasti, along with some
bread baked in the wood-fired oven, fruity olive oil and balsamic
vinegar, and marinated olives. The servings are large here and
attractively presented. There were the traditional favourites but my
guest particularly enjoyed the baked aubergine with mozzarella, and the
deep fried courgette was a triumph. (I now have the recipe but you will
have to visit the restaurant if you want to discover the simple secret
of these crisp and flavourful vegetables.)
Pizza promises so much but so often delivers so little, but it’s a
speciality here and I’ll go as far as to say it’s the best I have had
in ages. We chose the simple Margherita which was light and delicate
with a thin crust. The underside had the distinctive brown spots of a
perfect bake and the topping of tomato and cheese was ample but didn’t
reduce the base to a soggy mess. There are 18 or so other pizzas to
choose from including classic pizzas like Quattro Formaggi (Four
Cheese), Romana (anchovies, olives, capers) and Marinara (tomato, olive
oil, oregano and garlic).
The restaurant menu is broad-based, offering pasta, risotto, meat and
fish. We were tempted by the mixed shellfish and octopus in a delicious
and rich broth. Octopus is often tough and unappetising but the chef of
Donna Margherita knows what he is doing. It was tender and married well
with the king prawns, clams and mussels. O’pignatiello, the
romantic-sounding name for this dish, was served with small rounds of
baked pizza dough although we resorted to dipping bread into the bowl
to soak up the juices that we were loath to leave. This should be the
restaurant “signature dish” and is amazingly good value for money at
around £13.00 per head.
You might not make it to dessert (the portions are generous) but there
are treats in store. Try Zuccotto al Cioccolato Bianco (£4.00):
homemade sponge cake filled with chocolate ice cream topped with white
chocolate. There is a dark chocolate version filled with vanilla ice
cream which is equally as good. Affogato al Caffe (£4.00) is
vanilla ice cream with espresso coffee. This is a simple dessert but it
always seems sophisticated.
Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria offers the real
wood-fire oven experience. It doesn’t have to try to be authentic, it
just is authentic. The cognoscenti (those in the know) already make
this a popular eatery and I doubt that they will thank me for
publicising their secret slice of Naples. I’ll return but I might make
a reservation next time. Donna Margherita is no longer a secret!
This is a collaboration between two of India’s finest sons of the culinary arts. If you have not heard of Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting
Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV) then
you must have been living under a rock with no access either to
cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous
review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi
cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.
But what is Hyderabadi cooking? It will be a mystery to most
Westerners, who are very unlikely to have encountered it, and it is
revered by Indians, who might also have trouble tracking down authentic
dishes. It’s truly courtly, special and grand but at least this volume
makes those dishes more accessible to the home cook... and what home
cooking that would be!
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is an elegantly presented volume with stylish
photography by Bharat Bhirangi illustrating every recipe. The book has
a modern feel with the food being the rich focus in a minimalist
setting. Although the ingredients look a lengthy list for some dishes,
it’s mostly spices that are commonly found in the domestic larder.
Apart from being a striking cookbook, Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is also
something of an archive for a style of food preparation that is
disappearing. The authors have been lucky enough to recruit the
indispensible aid of two national culinary treasures who have lifetimes
of expertise. Begum Mumtaz Khan is considered a living legend and is a
member of the Jagirdhar families of the last Nizam, and has actually
tasted the food from the Royal kitchens. She has conducted cooking
classes and hosted Hyderabadi food festivals.
Ustad Habib Pasha has a passion for Hyderabadi food and a wealth of
experience. He has worked in Hyderabad’s most famous restaurants and
has been generous to our authors with his knowledge, revealing the
secrets of aromatic blends of herbs that help to give this cuisine its
distinctive flavour.
There are so many striking recipes to discover here but I have a few
favourites. Murtabuk is a layered stack of chapattis with a filling of
minced chicken, eggs and spices and is served in wedges as you would a
savoury birthday cake. It was Begum Mumtaz Khan who taught the authors
how to cook this to perfection.
Thikri Ki Dal is a delicious and comforting dal which contains amongst
the spices, onions and ghee... 2 three-inch pieces of earthenware! The
thikri are heated till red hot and then plunged into the food. They are
removed before serving to avoid damage to either guest or crockery.
This method is said to impart a distinctive and earthy flavour. Truly
unique.
Double Ka Meetha is a sweet and syrupy dessert that would be a fitting
end to a Royal Hyderabadi meal. It’s a confection of bread, nuts, cream
and saffron and simple to make. I wouldn’t reserve this for just
Hyderabadi meals, this would be welcomed anytime by those with a sweet
tooth.
The title suggests something sumptuous and rich and that is just what
this food is all about. Royal Hyderabadi Cooking presents recipes that
are regal and festive but accessible to the home cook. Amazing!
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor and Harpal Singh Sokhi
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4
Home Baked
There are few things in life that are predictable. Death, taxes, bad weather at weekends, a ladder in your
tights when you’re going out to dinner, and the quality of Grub Street
books. They have developed the knack of selecting the most appealing of
volumes to republish. Home Baked by George and Cecilia Scurfield is
another in that list.
Home Baked was originally published in 1956, and Home-Made Cakes and
Biscuits in 1964. Here we have both books combined. Yes, they are a
good few years old but read a few recipes and you’ll understand why the
great Elizabeth David thought so highly of these books. The baked goods
are international and traditional and will be as welcome today as they
were 50 years ago.
George and Cecilia were not born bakers but were driven to bread
baking. They found commercially produced loaves to be lacking in both
taste and texture. Perhaps the quality of shop-bought bread has
improved somewhat over the past half century but there is still nothing
to beat your own bread. It’s a myth (probably promoted by bread
manufacturers) that it takes hours of your time to make. Nonsense! A
bit of mixing, 10 minutes of therapeutic kneading, 5 minutes of
artistic shaping and half an hour of lustful longing as you wait for
your masterpiece to cool. 20 minutes of your effort and you have
something of which to be proud.
There is everything in the bread-making chapter that a novice baker
might need. Oven temperatures, shaping and glazing are all covered.
There are basic bread recipes and then an array of English Tea Breads.
These are the bedrock of old-fashioned teatime along with Tea Cakes
such as the celebrated Sally Lunn. My vote goes, however, to the Malt
Bread. This is a truly exceptional and moist confection which lists
black treacle and malt extract amongst its ingredients, and it keeps
well...if you can resist eating the whole loaf in one sitting.
The Coffee Breads from Abroad collection offers amongst others,
Croissants, Danish Pastry, Brioche, Streusel Cake, and Swedish Coffee
Bread (contains no coffee, you eat it with a cup of coffee). German
Apple Cake (Apfelkuchen) is well worth trying: you are unlikely to find
this in shops unless you are lucky enough to live near a continental or
Jewish bakery. This is a sweet cross between a bread and a cake.
But there is more! Next the Cakes and Biscuits section tempts us with
more delights which would constitute a fine teatime spread. There are
sponge cakes, fruit cakes, Christmas cakes and chocolate cakes, and an
assortment of pastries. My choice for a traditional selection would be
Walnut Cake and Gingerbread (sticky and delicious).
Biscuits (or cookies for my American readers) are also an essential at
teatime...or anytime. Shortbread is so simple to make and the joy of
paying a fraction of the price of shop-bought will add to the
experience. Orange Jumbles are tangy little treats which have a taste
of summer and I think they go wonderfully well with a glass of
something sparkling.
Home Baked is simple delight and temptation. Takes me back to Sunday
tea, Lyon’s Corner House and even cooking lessons with Mrs. Kenerly
(who said I would never make a cook!). I’ll use these recipes often and
you can pay no higher compliment to a cookbook.
Home Baked
Author: George and Cecilia Scurfield
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-37-9
Scent of the Monsoon Winds
Just the title evokes visions of hot steamy nights with the exotic (and for me exciting) aroma of damp vegetation and soil. The atmosphere that assures one of tempting and flavourful food.
Michal Haines has had a warm relationship with spices for all of her
life. Her Chinese grandfather, Stan (you know that any Chinese
grandfather called Stan would be a positive influence) left her with
memories of fine food and a treasured meat cleaver. Michal has worked
extensively in the New Zealand food industry, running gourmet food
stores around Auckland.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is a multi-ethnic cookbook with great shelf
appeal. Michal offers an introduction to spices and their uses in the
five main spice-dependant cuisines, and she suggests a list of spices
that will allow you to prepare those dishes. There is nothing much that
will demand a vacation to the Spice Islands (although it’s a good
excuse). You’ll find it all in your regular supermarket, or mail order
if you live on a remote hilltop.
The chapter headings are intriguing: Portable Feasts, Spiced Nights,
Winter Blues and Kingly Condiments. The recipes are also a unique
bunch, encompassing some celebrated dishes such as Indonesian Chicken
Rampah and Cheese Sticks, but there is a lot here that will be new to
many readers. Even an impressive book collection would not provide you
with Michal’s own family recipes, which she shares here.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds offers modern versions of some classic
dishes such as Drunken Chicken. This is a tangy but light dish with a
kick from ginger, Szechwan peppercorns, star anise and cassia. Arabian
White Coffee Cream will transport you to the souk: this is a
sophisticated but simple dessert and truly a bit different.
Hot Mezze Hummus is a speciality of the mountains of Eastern Turkey and
is a radical departure from the ubiquitous tepid hummus that we
recognise from deli counters and Middle Eastern restaurants. This
recipe has additional flavours and textures and is altogether more
complex, although very simple to prepare.
If you are looking for a quick meal with impact then you could be
turning to Vietnamese Dinner Noodles. There are quite a few ingredients
but don’t be put off - this is cooking at its basic best. Pirate
Chicken has plenty of punchy panache with Jerk Paste supplying the
heat. It’s another fast meal but impressive nevertheless.
If Scent of the Monsoon Winds has a signature dish then it is, for me
at least, Honey Tamarind Roast Duck. This is a flavourful and succulent
recipe which avoids the perennial problem of dry meat. It all has to do
with the cooking method, and this roast duck isn’t roasted but rather
simmered. This is going to be a new classic.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is an attractive volume of charm and
innovation. It will be enjoyed by spice lovers who don’t have endless
time to spend in the kitchen. We will, I hope, hear more from Michal
Haines.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds
Author: Michal Haines
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-86966-211-0
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine
I review books by many new authors, many smart young foodies and quite a few old stagers, who each
have lots to offer the culinary opus. Elizabeth David is, depending on
your viewpoint, either a shining star in a dazzling firmament or a
treasure island in the sea of mediocrity.
It’s true that Elizabeth David has long (we are talking decades) been
quoted and revered by the worthy and wise of the food industry. She is
considered the Grande Dame of British cooking... or more accurately the
British Queen of (not necessarily British) cooking. She wasn’t a Mrs.
Beeton (too racy) or a Delia Smith (more a wordsmith) but she holds a
place of high esteem in the mind of anyone who knows a fig about
cooking.
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine is a book to dip into like a fine
stockpot. It’s a book of collected articles and associated recipes that
show the skill of this woman to great advantage. They were written
between 1955 and 1984 for publications as diverse as Gourmet magazine
and The Spectator. Each chapter holds a little gem of observation and
wry humour. Yes, the food landscape has changed, both in Britain and in
France, but this volume is still relevant and absorbing.
The Omelette immortalised in these pages is one cooked in the
restaurant Molière (this is Elizabeth David so it wouldn’t be a
bacon buttie in The Dog and Duck). She writes: “... Physically and
emotionally worn to tatters by the pandemonium and splendour of the
Avignon market, tottering under the weight of provisions we had bought
and agonizing at the thought of all the glorious things which we hadn’t
or couldn’t, we would make at last for the restaurant Molière to
be rested and restored.” Then follows the recipe for a simple but
delectable omelette. Not fussy and over-garnished but perfect in form
and flavour.
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine will never be considered passé.
It has an abundance of recipes for food lovers who want to cook, and
has a wealth of anecdotes for cooks who want to dream. It’s a pleasure
to read and reread, and a must for wanabe food writers.
An Omelette and a Glass of Wine
Author: Elizabeth David
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-35-5
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
You should expect something special when you are presented with a Sanjeev Kapoor cookbook. Low Calorie Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an exotic diet trend.
Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting
Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV. It’s been airing since 1993 and its
600th episode is now just a memory. He has won several awards such as
the Best Executive Chef of India Award and the Mercury Gold Award at
Geneva, which has earned this man international as well as home-grown
respect.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is just one of many cookbooks from this
charming, handsome and charismatic man. Each book is welcomed by an
adoring audience who have been impressed by the author’s skill on the
small screen. It’s said that Sanjeev never repeats a recipe and will
not need to for several decades; such is his volume of work.
Low calorie carnivorous and low calorie vegetarian recipes have often
seemed to fall into one of two categories: boring or boring with
vegetables. But Sanjeev’s book will strike the right chord with many
readers who want a low calorie diet that offers food with taste and
texture. If you don’t enjoy the food that does you good then you will
fall back into the same old unhealthy eating habits which got you into
your chubby mess to start with.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is about flavour, and Sanjeev has a
collection of recipes that will tempt even those with no health or
weight issues. This is good food with intriguing combinations of spices
and fresh ingredients. There are Nutrition Information charts with each
recipe to enable the home cook to make the best choices to achieve a
balanced diet.
The recipes are broad-based and you don’t have to be a lover of
traditional Indian food to appreciate the dishes. Sanjeev has French
onion soup but his version raises the bar with French Onion and Garlic
Soup. Spicy Pineapple Boat is light and refreshing but with a little
kick from green chillies. For those who want a cool and summery salad
then Minted Mushrooms should fit the bill. This is a dish of mushrooms,
tomato, cucumber, mint leaves and a dressing of low fat yogurt, and the
addition of lemon juice provides a tang.
However delicious the European-inspired dishes might be, most of us
will be looking for that unmistakable taste of the subcontinent and
it’s here in glorious profusion. Spinach and Cabbage Parantha is a
flatbread with aromatic cardamom and spicy red chilli powder to
complement the vegetables incorporated into the dough.
Desserts are not forgotten. Kesari Phirni is a lovely dessert of
Pistachio nuts perfumed with saffron and cardamom. The sweetness comes
from a sugar substitute such as Equal or Splenda so you can indulge
with no guilt.
Do I have a favourite recipe? Well, you know I do and its Mushroom Dum
Biryani. This is a rice dish made with the traditional method but have
no fear, it’s not difficult and the results will impress both Western
and Asian friends. I’ll make this dish often, not because I have a low
calorie diet (although perhaps I should) but because it’s delicious and
simple.
A Western cook will have no problem finding the spices in local
supermarkets or from one of the many online Asian stores. The cooking
techniques are not taxing and you don’t have to take a trip to Mumbai
to kit out your new Asian kitchen. This is a fascinating book with
recipes that will encourage you to make, eat and enjoy flavourful and
healthful meals.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is the first of Sanjeev Kapoor's books
that I have had the pleasure to review, and there are more to follow.
This volume is bound to be a success with readers from every continent.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00, £11.69, $25.00US
ISBN 978-81-7154-888-0
Pie – A Global History
Well, dear reader, if you are a regular here (and why wouldn’t you be?) you will know of my warm and close
relationship with pies. It’s no surprise therefore that I am delighted
to have in my warm and still-pie-crumbed hand a book which is filled
with nothing but pie.
Janet Clarkson is the author of this fine little tome and she is a GP
and lecturer in the School of Medicine at the University of Queensland,
Australia. That might give the impression that pies are dodgy and
dangerous things to eat! Janet has a passion for food history and she
writes often on that subject... and pies are safe to eat, at least
these days.
I say “these days” because pies have not always been the diverse and
delicious delights that we find today. They originated out of necessity
and were the forerunner of the fridge. That is to say they were one of
the first food preservers and the crust was of industrial and
unbreakable quality that was not intended to be eaten by gentlefolk.
(Although I suspect a slab of anything soaked with cooking juices might
have been tempting to the lower orders.)
Pie is one of the few culinary triumphs to have emanated from Britain.
Its traditions have spread throughout its colonies and are now adapted
as national specialities in the USA (fruit pies), in Australia (meat
pies in mushy peas), and New Zealand (mutton pies). They have been the
staple of both rich and poor and they have travelled well.
Pie – A Global History is one of a series of food history books from
Reaktion. Each one has a different author and covers a different food
but they all have the same high standard of presentation and content.
This, like the others, is not a recipe book (although there are
several) but it quite definitely is a book that is fascinating for both
domestic foodies and food academics. It’s thoroughly well researched
and Janet has a humorous and accessible style. The illustrations are
quite charming and range from medieval sketches to stills from the 2007
film of Sweeny Todd, the story of which is enough to turn anyone from
the pie path.
I expected this book to be a good read and it does not disappoint. It
would be a great gift for any lover of food, food history or history in
general. Pie – A Global History is an attractive volume and a
worthwhile addition to any serious book collection.
Pie – A Global History
Author: Janet Clarkson
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-425-0
Spanish Cooking
Pepita Aris is an authority on Spanish cooking, both traditional and the lesser known regional dishes. She
lived in Spain for many years, writes for magazines and newspapers
including Bon Appétit, and she is the founder editor of Taste as
well as a contributor to the British edition of Larousse Gastronomique.
Pepita has made frequent TV and radio appearances to promote Spanish
foods and cooking.
There are 70 or so recipes between the covers of Spanish Cooking, each
one supported by a wealth of photographs. This is the style of book
that, sadly, I see infrequently. It has step-by-step photographs to
give confidence to the debutant cook, as did the old-fashioned 1950s
good homemaking (you know the ones I mean) cookbooks. We all love big
glossy full-colour shots of exotic cities or ancient urns spilling
Provencal lavender, but we equally need some recipe books to get us
launched into a life of confident and enthusiastic cooking. This very
volume could be your launch pad for Spanish cooking.
Having said how much I love the recipe photography, I should tell you
that there are indeed city shots, folkloric dancers, some sheep and a
cow, but they are confined to the fascinating travelogue section at the
start of the book. These pages will get you in the mood for some
delicious Spanish food. The ingredients for those dishes and even the
traditional earthenware casseroles to serve them in (your next Spanish
holiday souvenirs, and more practical than a straw donkey) are all
detailed.
But on to the recipes. They are a vibrant collection of familiar
favourites often found in Spanish restaurants outside Spain, and some
lesser known ones that might be more often found in regional Spanish
homes. Arroz con Pollo is a typical dish of rice, chicken and tomatoes
but the addition of ham and chorizo add that unmistakable flavour of
the peninsula. There are versions of this dish in restaurants all over
the world along with the ubiquitous Seafood Paella, but be assured that
these home-made examples will be more easily recognised by a real
Spaniard than would those restaurant standards.
Fabada is a regional speciality from the mountains of Asturias on the
Northern coast of Spain. This is a hearty stew of sausages and beans
with a hint of saffron and paprika. This isn’t beach-hugging tourist
fare. This is authentic Spanish food with richness and depth of flavour
that is appropriate for cold days. Just a nice glass of Rioja and some
crusty bread is all you’ll need to accompany this dish.
There is a little dessert of which I am fond and I am delighted to see
the recipe here. It’s Leche Frita, and Pepita suggests it with a Black
Fruit Sauce. The literal translation is fried milk but they are in fact
deep fried custard with a crunchy breadcrumb coating, and a delicate
flavour of cinnamon.
Spanish Cooking is one of the best Spanish recipe books that this
reviewer has seen in ages. It’s practical and well written and has a
well chosen selection of dishes. None of them are difficult to make but
all of them have the air of authenticity. There are recipes that suit
every season ad every taste. Plenty for vegetarians and fish lovers and
the ingredients are easy to come by. This would be an ideal book for
those who are searching for a hand-holding Spanish cookbook. It’s
amazing value for money.
Spanish Cooking
Author: Pepita Aris
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-290-4
Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights
The Miss Dahl mentioned is none other than Sophie Dahl who, I must confess, I had never heard of (I don’t
move in the right circles). But you find me here writing a review of a
book that has been both well written and which I have found to be
thoroughly entertaining.
Sophie started her working life as a model although she has ventured
into the world of waitressing and nannying. She has spent her life
dodging about the world and has lived in both London and New York, and
has had a love affair with food wherever she has roamed. A food-loving
model? Could this be true?
Sophie is, these days, a svelte young woman with a pretty smile but she
graced the catwalk as a well-upholstered mannequin with a curvaceous
figure the like of which had seldom been seen in the fashion industry.
A bout of ill health led Sophie to re-evaluate her relationship with
food and reconsider how she wanted to eat and live. This classy book is
the result of revisiting favourite dishes that are both sustaining and
delicious.
The recipes here are simple, sensible and mouth-watering. This is a
seasonal cookbook with recipes for breakfast, lunch and suppers, with
some puds thrown in for good measure. All the dishes have one thing in
common and that’s comfort.
Breakfast is well represented in Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights.
Poached Eggs on Portobello Mushrooms with Goat’s Cheese is a typical
example of Sophie’s style. The egg yolk makes a rich and silky sauce.
This is in Autumn Breakfasts but it would work equally well as a light
lunch. Pear and Ginger Muffins are offered as a sweet temptation for a
winter breakfast but would go well with a nice cup of tea on a cold
afternoon.
The star of the volume must be Coconut Curry with Prawns. This is a
Thai-inspired curry of the store cupboard variety but is no worse for
that. It doesn’t demand a trip to an ethnic supermarket. The most
exotic ingredient is green chilli and that isn’t hard to come by these
days.
Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights is an attractive volume filled with
tempting dishes, some of which you might be familiar with and others
are Sophie originals. Don’t be tempted to just dive into the recipes.
This book is also something of an autobiography which shows the lady to
be intelligent, witty and down to earth. She has been a model but she
is a novelist and now a food writer with a creditable first book under
her belt. Hope we hear more from her in future.
Miss Dahl’s Voluptuous Delights
Author: Sophie Dahl
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726117-8
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
I love Japanese food but seldom have I been offered anything other than tempura and sushi. Now, don’t get
me wrong, I could eat both those lovely dishes every day but there is
more to Japanese food than raw fish and battered vegetables. There is
Donburi!
What exactly is this donburi? It’s all about rice. Doesn’t sound very
interesting, does it? Top that rice with meat and/or vegetables and
perhaps a few noodles and often egg, cooked or not. Those garnishes
complement the rice which is held in such high esteem by the Japanese.
The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and
passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for food. His motto has always been “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on
television where he represented the new generation of cooks who wanted
taste and texture in no time.
I am a food writer and researcher and frequent eater, and I had oft
encountered recipes for Donburi but it was Toronto (no, not Tokyo) that
gave me an opportunity to try these tempting dishes for the first time.
I chose a chicken donburi which arrived with a sunny egg yolk nestling
on top of vegetables and tender meat. I have been searching for such
donburi perfection since then.
At last my menu scanning is over and I have help at hand in the guise
of Donburi Mania, which houses between its covers 70 recipes for meals
that are quick, delicious and healthy. You’ll have dinner ready in the
time it takes to cook rice. You can use last night’s leftovers with
some fresh vegetables for crunch. It couldn’t be simpler. No exotic
equipment needed and more importantly...no special skills.
It’s been difficult for me to select a few recipes to represent
donburi. All of Kentaro’s dishes are appealing and encompass a wide
range of ingredients. There is plenty here for a vegetarian and for
fish lovers but the author will not expect you to follow his ideas
meticulously. Donburi is about casual and modern eating so make a few
from this book and then invent your own.
Stewed Pork Donburi makes use of cheaper cuts of meat. This recipe is
more time-consuming than others as the meat needs to simmer for an hour
or so. You don’t have to sit and watch the pork cooking so it hardly
constitutes as slaving over a hot stove. The end result of your
foreplanning will be a silky and soft preparation that will become a
firm favourite. It’s real comfort food that will have you finding
excuses to make it.
Chicken Sukiyaki Donburi reminds me of my first encounter. You can use
last night’s leftover Sukiyaki (or cook chicken in a sweet soy sauce)
so you’ll have a smart meal in less than 20 minutes. The egg yolk might
be alarming for the uninitiated but it forms a creamy coating which is
rich and luxurious. Be brave.
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking is the most comprehensive book
around covering just this unique and flavourful dish. I’ll be eating my
way through each of Kentaro Kobayashi’s tempting recipes.
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc.
Price: £9.99, $14.95US
ISBN-13: 978-1934287491
The Mezze Cookbook
The author, Maria Khalifé, has been made a household name in the Middle East thanks to her Soufra Daimeh
TV cooking show. Soufra Daimeh has a huge following with more than 2000
episodes being aired on major TV networks in Lebanon and Arab countries
since it started in 1996. Maria also opened the first private cooking
school in Lebanon. Who better to present a book of delicious mezze
dishes!
Mezze, along with tapas and dim sum are some of the world’s finest
small bites. There are few dining experiences more convivial than
sitting with friends or family and sharing a selection of small dishes
with each guest taking a little of this and a spoonful of that. You can
tailor your mezze to the tastes of the assembled party, be they
vegetarian or meat-loving. Traditionally mezze were served with a drink
as a sort of Middle Eastern aperitif but mezze can equally be a meal in
its own right ...and what a delightful meal that would be!
The Mezze Cookbook offers a broad array of dishes from Greece, Lebanon
and Turkey. They have the flavours of the Mediterranean with the
addition of a pinch of cinnamon here and there, the tang of feta and a
sprinkle of paprika. Mezze are not alarmingly spicy but rather more
aromatic and flavourful.
Lamb is the most popular meat throughout the Middle East so it’s no
surprise to see so many examples of lamb-based mezze here. Sfiha bil
Lahm are mini meat and pine nut pizzas. Sambousek bil Lahm is similar
but the filling is totally encased in pastry. Lamb Kebbeh is my
favourite meat mezze and home-made is always better than those found in
all but the best Lebanese restaurants.
Vegetarians are well served in the Middle East. Fried Courgette Balls
are vegetable croquettes, Batata bil Kouzbara are fried cubes of
potatoes with garlic and coriander. Spanakopita are the celebrated
Greek spinach pies that are so often a disappointment in overcrowded
tourist resorts. This recipe will revive your enthusiasm for this flaky
and delicious snack.
The hot stuffed vegetables of Greece, Gemista, are show-stoppers.
Tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes, peppers and potatoes are roasted with
a filling of rice, onions, tomatoes and herbs, and are topped with feta
cheese. They are a colourful bunch of vegetables and add impact to your
display of mezze. Gemista are hearty enough to appeal to even
non-vegetarians but they look delicate and appetising.
The Mezze Cookbook is an attractive large-format volume with around 90
recipes for Middle Eastern mezze and the photography by Stuart West is
lovely. This is a lot of book for the price.
Author: Maria Khalifé
The Mezze Cookbook
Published by: New Holland
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-978-0
Fast
This is another in The Australian Women’s Weekly series of chunky books which explore fast but delicious
food. There are 180 recipes that will only take you 35 minutes to cook
...no, not all at the same time, but one meal in just over half an hour
is pretty good going.
Fast is a small-format, chubby book with photographs of every one of
those 180 recipes. I don’t think pictures are essential for the more
experienced of home cooks but they do give a bit of confidence to the
culinarily challenged or to the novice. Having said that I should
mention that any dish that only takes 35 minutes to cook is not going
to be over-taxing.
It’s not just mid-week evenings that will find you short of time.
Mornings are a scramble trying to get children and wife off to work,
but you want to give them a healthy and sustaining breakfast before
they go. It’s said to be the most important meal of the day. How about
Cheesy Scrambled Eggs with Spinach? (Different sort of scramble.)
Preparation time 5 minutes, cooking time 5 minutes, eating time 1.5
minutes, and serves four.
It’s lunchtime and it’s your turn to entertain. It’s possible in 35
minutes to present your guest with a sophisticated Mediterranean meal
that will make you look like you have slaved for hours. Tomato, Pesto
and Olive Tart takes 10 minutes to make (using bought puff pastry) and
20 minutes to cook. That leaves you enough time to clear up in the
kitchen so your friends will also suppose you have a “lady that does” a
couple of times each week. Thus you pass a no-stress lunchtime and your
social status is elevated.
Dessert is often the first victim of rush. I tend to think of sweets as
being more time-consuming than the main dish but Fast offers a good
selection of quick and easy options. I am a lover of self-saucing
puddings and there is a Lemon and Mixed Berry version that is a
delight. These take 15 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook and
they are foolproof. Fast also tempts you with baked goods to
satisfy your sugar craving. Berry Yogurt Muffins will be on the table
in half an hour, or Hazelnut Tiramisu from the Weekend chapter is a
lovely twist on the original and is super-fast, taking only 20 minutes.
Fast is a book for those of us who love good food but need to find ways
of cutting down on kitchen time. There is no need to resort to costly
takeaways or frozen ready meals. It’s easy to eat well with the minimum
of time spent in preparation. This is a practical book filled with
ideas for mouth-watering dishes that are sure to work. They have been
triple-tested by those nice people at The Australian Women’s Weekly.
Great value for money.
Fast
Author: The Australian Women’s Weekly
Published by: ACP Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-186396870-6
The World of Spice
Michael Bateman was a tremendously appealing food writer. His books and newspaper articles were written
with a light and witty air which encouraged even non-foodies to settle
down for a good read. The World of Spice is a typical example of
Michael’s fine work.
This is a book of amazing photographs, traditional recipes from around
the globe, and a Spice Directory. It’s a volume packed with detailed
information about individual spices, and historic overviews of the
spice heritage not only of the usual spice-producing countries but also
of those nations that have had a warm relationship with imported spices.
There are a few countries in the cooler regions of the world that
produce spices. The USA has the famed Tabasco, Spain and Hungary the
vibrant paprika, and even England had a thriving saffron economy and
still has a town, Saffron Waldon, to testify to that fact. Mustard has
long been a popular condiment in Europe, and fortunes were said to be
made from something that was largely left on the side of the plate. The
more exotic spices might not have been grown in the northern hemisphere
but they were nonetheless prized and many traditional recipes rely on
spices for their distinctive savour.
The recipes are an eclectic bunch from every continent. There are the
expected hot and tongue-tingling dishes of Asia alongside the subtle
and aromatic offerings of Europe. Some of them are traditional and some
are Michael’s take on the originals, but all give an insight into the
evolution of these indispensible ingredients.
The French are not considered as great consumers of spicy food but they
have Quatre Epices which is a melange (isn’t education a marvellous
thing) of white pepper, nutmeg, ginger and cloves, although some
commercial varieties omit the pepper... but the name remains “Four
Spices”!
The New World has some unique recipes and Australia’s Anzac Biscuits
demonstrate man’s fondness for elevating foods to promote national
pride. These cookies are a crunchy confection of oats and ginger
commemorating the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps of the First
World War. Louisiana Jambalaya is a classic Creole dish using cayenne
pepper and green chilli, and could be considered as one of the world’s
first fusion dishes, combining both American and African flavours.
The Spice Directory gives colourful and fascinating information on many
spices, illustrating not only culinary but medical uses. Nuts, fruits,
flowers, berries, seeds, roots and leaves are all discussed. It’s a
fairly comprehensive list but Michael’s conversational style prevents
this from being a scientific paper.
The World of Spice is a delight for any lover of spices. It doesn’t
focus on any particular cuisine nor just those spices that give heat to
exotic dishes. Michael Bateman takes a broad view of everything that is
considered Spice. This is an informative and attractive volume and will
be sought by all who appreciated Michael’s talent as a food writer.
The World of Spice
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-674-5
Italian Ice Cream
I have bought the ice cream maker and I am ready to churn. There are fine recipes in many books for ice
cream but isn’t there something romantic, and very chic, about real
Italian ice cream? One is wafted to a picturesque piazza where you’ll
be served a stylish confection, the memory of which will last a
lifetime. Well, OK, you can’t replicate the ambiance of an Italian city
(sounds of scooters, horns, screeching of brakes, screams of tourists)
but you can get a close approximation to an authentic Italian frozen
dessert.
Carla Bardi is the author of this sumptuous tome. She has numerous
other cookbooks to her credit including Flavours of Rome. She was
raised in Tuscany where she learnt to cook surrounded by a big extended
family. Those lessons have served her well because she now runs a
restaurant on the shores of Lake Bolsena.
Italian Ice Cream is a large-format volume with almost edible
photographs by Lorenzo Pasquinelli. The impression given is of an adult
ice cream restaurant rather than a dolly-mixture ice cream parlour.
These are sophisticated desserts although mostly simple to prepare.
Presentation is everything and there are classy serving suggestions
that will add so much to the impact.
Carla offers four styles of dessert starting with Gelato, classic
Italian ice cream, then Sorbetto, tangy sorbets, Granita, which has a
grainy texture as the name suggests, and Semifreddo, which is softer
and less cold than ice cream and usually custard-based. The advantage
with all of these is that they are obviously made in advance and are
therefore prime candidates for dinner parties and smart entertaining.
The most classic but the simplest of Gelato is the Rich Egg-Cream
Gelato. Few ingredients but the result is a creamy convection that is
heavenly. This is ideal for the end of an elaborate meal when an
unfussy but delicious dessert is in order. I’d serve this with perhaps
some sweet biscuits and a shot of espresso.
If you’re looking for an alcoholic but refreshing ice then After Dinner
Sorbet will hit the spot. This has both whisky and white port so be
mindful of drivers and those doing the washing up. It looks innocent
enough, like a damp snowball, but it packs a punch. This isn’t one for
the kids.
Double Chocolate Gelato Cake is the pièce de resistance (or
whatever that is in Italian). This is a magnificent presentation of
Chocolate Sponge (recipe in this book), Chocolate Gelato and that
aforementioned Egg-Cream Gelato. It’s stunning but, like all the
recipes, easy to prepare.
Italian Ice Cream contains more than 110 recipes for truly elegant
frozen desserts. You’ll not be confronted by lengthy lists of
ingredients and these ices are not over-taxing to make. The success
depends on a combination of flavour and texture. The book is as
delightful as the desserts and great value for money.
Italian Ice Cream
Author: Carla Bardi
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-139-6
Barbecue Road Trip
This is probably my favourite kind of book – that which combines travel and food. That’s not meals on
wheels or in-flight refreshments – this is taking a trip and finding
culinary gems along the way. Barbecue Road Trip is one of the most
mouth-watering travel/food books around but it will delight and
disappoint many of you.
“DISAPPOINT”?? I hear you cry (in capital letters because you are
crying loudly). Yes, not actually with the book but with the revelation
that you might not be able to replicate these barbecue dishes in your
own back yard. This volume will delight you with fine photography,
witty text and some of the best rub, sauce and slaw recipes around
.Barbecue Road Trip has been masterfully penned by Michael Karl Witzel,
who has written numerous books about iconic American dining, as well as
contributing to The Food Network and History and Travel Channels.
Michael gives you the bad news up front. A home barbecue grills food
with direct heat rather than allowing it a long slow process available
only from indirect heat. The flavour of authentic barbecue comes from
the meats themselves and the rubs or marinades. Yes, a slight smokiness
is imparted but that’s not the object of the exercise. To make REAL
old-fashioned barbecue you need enough space to settle the ribs, joints
or sausages away from flames. This is not Fast Food! Tenderness and
flavour come after hours of cooking ...but it’s worth waiting for.
Barbecue Road Trip is a barbecue bible. No, it’s not a “you can do this
yourself, folks” type of book; it’s a “these are the most marvellous
restaurants around” type of book. No marks out of ten are given and no
style of preparation is preferred. Michael has toured and talked, and
presents you with an incredible overview of the art in Texas, Kansas
City, Memphis and North Carolina, each one a hub for barbecue
aficionados.
Americans can be proud that they have introduced the world to the home
barbecue. That’s an event we all enjoy but it’s not the same as
savouring food from a barbecue pit with a tray of traditional side
dishes. Those slaws and potatoes and sauces will differ with every
establishment but all those restaurants have things in common: the food
will be tempting, the clientele will be loyal and the decor will be
rustic ...the recipe for the rub or marinade is also likely to be a
secret.
Barbecue Road Trip isn’t just an attractive volume to be enjoyed by
Americans. It’s also going to be appreciated by those tourists who have
had the pleasure of dining at any of these eateries and anyone who
plans to visit the US in the future. America has a reputation for fine
chefs both imported and home-grown, but the thought of barbecue will
bring a tear to the home-sick eye of many overseas-stranded
Americans... and I can understand why. I’m just off to book my ticket
to Memphis... or Lexington... or...
Barbecue Road Trip
Author: Michael Karl Witzel
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price £17.99, $30.00US
ISBN 978-0-7603-2752-4
Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook
It’s possible that you might not have heard the name Charita Jones but viewers of UK Kitchen Nightmares
will certainly remember this characterful lady winning over the tough
and abusive Gordon Ramsay – her food was never in question. Ms. Jones
has another more familiar name – Momma Cherri.
Soul in a Bowl presents the food that Charita knows best. These are
classic Soul Food dishes with a few personal tweaks. They are both
comforting and gutsy, but also economical. You might have heard about
Soul Food but may never have had the chance to try it. There is nothing
here that will require a trip to an ethnic supermarket, unless you are
sufficiently enthused to buy Chitterlings (the only recipe in this book
that will probably remain untested by me, although I might try some at
Momma Cherri's restaurant).
Slavery was the root of this unique cuisine. Relying on vegetables,
cheap cuts of meat and leftovers from the master’s kitchen, the
enslaved population conjured and contrived tempting dishes that were
hearty and sustaining but above all flavourful.
You’ll want to start your Soulful adventure with Momma Cherri’s Cajun
Seasoning. Lots of Charita's recipes have a little of this spicy mix
and you have the choice of buying commercial or using the mix
described. There isn’t anything uncommon so I’d start by making a jar
of this. It will keep for a month in a container or longer in the
freezer.
There are some classic dishes that will probably be the ones you’ll
want to make first. Hush Puppies are fritters of sweetcorn and peppers;
Cornbread (a staple but it’s refined enough to accompany meals other
than the Soul variety), Southern-Fried Chicken, and Candied Sweet
Potatoes all evoke memories of old films about Southern US states where
the policeman was always ugly and nasty, and there was a fat white man
sweating in a wrinkled suit ...but the food always sounded good.
Poor Man’s Pie is an original creation and I’ll be making it often.
It’s a crowd-pleaser of a pie filled with minced beef, chorizo sausages
and vegetables and topped with a cornbread batter. Sweet Potato Pie is
simple to make, has a silky texture and would be a fitting end to a
BBQ...or any event at all, in my opinion.
Soul Food was born of necessity but has grown to be worthy and
distinctive. Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook allows us to enjoy
amazing food that is truly something different. It’s accessible good
food that will appeal to the whole family, and you can’t say that very
often!
Momma Cherri’s Soul in a Bowl Cookbook
Author: Charita Jones
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 13: 9781904573814
The Big Book of World Tapas
This book could have had a couple of different titles both of which would have been equally relevant – How
to Cater Your Own Wedding (or at least your cousins’), or How to Throw
a Cocktail Party Without Needing a Second Mortgage (assuming that you
had already found a bank to give you the first one). Julia Hartley has
been a catering professional for the past 16 years and her expertise
shines through not only in the quality of the recipes but in the
invaluable advice.
The Big Book of World Tapas isn’t just about those delightful little
dishes of food found in wood-panelled bars in Spain. It’s about the
concept of presenting small and tasty bites to a few family members or
a host of guests. It draws upon bite-size recipes for delicious morsels
from around the world. India, China, Europe and the Middle East all
have their versions of Tapas. What better way of offering a variety of
tastes and textures to those whose palates have been jaded by years of
abuse from curly ham sandwiches, soggy coronation chicken vol au vents,
and carrot sticks that bend like tulips in a vase.
This lovely book gives you enough information to set up in business. I
always worry that I have not prepared enough food for guests. I have
something of a siege mentality when it comes to food so there is
invariably a lot of waste. That’s an expensive mistake in these days of
high food prices and little spare cash. Julia has a useful table that
suggests quantities of food depending on type of event, number of
guests and length of party (people stay longer than you expect).
Julia has tapas selections for 6 types of event: Brunches, Pre-dinner
Drinks, Cocktail Parties, Late-night Drinks, Parties and Celebrations,
and Weddings. All the tapas can be mixed and matched so you can tailor
the food to the guests. There is plenty here for vegetarians, who often
get a raw deal (those limp carrots again) but those vegetarian items
are exotic enough to appeal also to meat-eaters who are probably
heartily sick of sausage rolls.
There are 365 international tapas listed and it’s difficult to pick
just a few from the list of remarkable savoury ones. Chorizo, Red
Pepper & Manchego Empanadas would have my vote for the most Spanish
tapa. Squid Stuffed with Pine Nuts and Raisin Rice is outstanding and
most of the work can be done in advance. Roasted Tikka Potatoes would
be a flavourful hot dish that will disappear before your very eyes.
They couldn’t be easier and they are a great fall-back tapa if a few
unexpected extra guests turn up.
Sweets at catered events are often a disappointment or overlooked
altogether. I have never been keen on wedding cake but that and trifle
are the predictable offerings. The Big Book of World Tapas tempts you
with Treacle Tartlets, Hazelnut Clusters and Chocolate Fondue along
with many other delights to sooth your previously neglected dessert
craving.
The Big Book of World Tapas is a book that will enable you to throw the
best of parties without resorting to outside help. It isn’t as daunting
as it might seem. The dishes are straightforward with the minimum of
ingredients, and lots of work can be done several days in advance.
Julia Hartley has penned the new event-catering bible for the home
cook. Amazing value for money.
The Big Book of World Tapas
Julia Hartley
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-679-6
The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth
The author, Jonny Bowden, is a nutritionalist but is one of the few who has remained an independent
thinker. He hasn’t nailed his colours to the mast of a particular Super
Food; and he has refrained from saying that any particular ingredient
should be avoided at all cost (apart from the infamous trans-fatty
acids).
Jonny presents a book that is noteworthy for its lack of hype and
scare-mongering. He offers an unbiased view of foods and discusses
their individual benefits. He encourages you to think of foods as
friends rather than unsavoury (or savoury for that matter)
acquaintances who won’t take no for an answer.
This is an easy book to read, use and appreciate. Jonny starts with an
overview and an explanation of dietary terms. He doesn’t assume that
you have a degree in something health-related and he targets his wisdom
towards the general public who want to eat balanced and healthful meals.
When I say “diet” I don’t mean that The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth
focuses on weight loss. It’s true, however, that a balanced diet will
promote a slimmer and sleeker you if you happen to be a bit on the
chubby side. This book is a tool to aid healthy eating and to allow you
to make the best possible food choices.
The book is divided by food type with sections devoted to each food
group. There are the useful additions of chapters for beverages and
herbs and spices as well as oils and sweeteners. The volume of
information on each item is considerable, with both pros and cons
discussed. He busts some food myths: that chocolate is the root of
mankind’s undoing, and that you would be better off if you banished
coffee from your life forever. Sounding good, isn’t it?
Jonny Bowden has a raft of experts who have added their personal Top 10
foods at the end of each section, and there are plenty of Worth Knowing
notes to further add to the breadth of information. He has an easy
accessible style of writing that is neither condescending nor
over-technical. It’s a book to read and enjoy but it has a serious
message. You can lead a healthier life by just making a few painless
adjustments, and you’ll feel better for it.
The 150 Healthiest Foods on Earth
Author: Jonny Bowden
Published by: Fair Winds
Price: £15.99, $24.99US
ISBN 13: 978-1-59233-228-1
Cucina Napoletana
This is a stunning volume of 100 or so recipes and a mix of colour photographs and evocative black and
white shots of the city and its people. Cucina Napoletana isn’t out to
impress you with recipes from restaurants with crisp white tablecloths,
although they are touched upon. Instead, this book gives you an
impression of gutsy flavours and of no-frills inhabitants of a town
that has had a “reputation” since Roman times.
Naples takes advantage of all the fine foods that Italy has to offer,
but in particular the produce from the region surrounding the city. Its
climate makes it ideal for growing tomatoes and chillies along with
potatoes and peppers, and it has the benefit of the abundance of the
sea. Meat dishes rely on pork and chicken rather than beef, which was
historically out of the reach of most of the population.
The author Arturo Lengo has lived and worked in Naples for more than 30
years. Although not a native of Naples he has a passion for the area
and its food. He presents dishes that are appropriate for both family
meals and smart entertaining, and dishes that are both delicious as
well as overflowing with healthful ingredients.
Naples is the home of Pizza – the thin-crust with toppings that
complement rather than swamp the base – cooked to perfection in a
wood-burning oven and consumed with a carafe of red wine and to the
sound of a Puccini opera. Well, you probably won’t have the
wood-burning oven but your pizza will still be better than any
shop-bought varieties... or even those delivered by the lad on a moped.
And you can always buy a CD of La Bohème. Arturo offers several
pizzas including the most celebrated Margherita invented by pizza chef
Raffaela Esposito in 1889, who named his creation in honour of Queen
Margherita. Pizza Capperi, Olive e Acciughi is pizza garnished with
capers, olives and anchovies. There is the ever-present mozzarella and
tomato to offset the salty tang of the other ingredients, to produce a
pizza that would be ideal with aperitifs.
Cucina Napoletana has numerous pasta dishes ranging from the cheap and
cheerful but truly delicious Farfalle with Tuna and Peas to Spaghetti
with Prawns, Squid and Clams. One of the quickest to prepare is
Linguine with Pancetta and Tomato Sauce. It’s a traditional Easter dish
in Naples although I am sure it will be a year-round favourite with
those that love pasta dressed with few ingredients and little fuss.
Sfogliatelle Ricce are semolina and ricotta pastries that originated in
the 1700s in the kitchens of the Croce di Lucca monastery. They were
prepared for guests but in 1818 Pasquale Pintauro, a baker in Naples,
baked the first ones commercially outside the walls of a religious
establishment. This is a recipe for the more confident cook but the
results will be worth the effort.
Cucina Napoletana is full of recipes that will tempt you, and
photographs by Hannah Mornement show the Neapolitan character off to
its quirky finest. “See Naples and die” is a phrase the origins of
which are lost in the mists of time. Sounds like more of a threat than
a promise, so consider “Eat Naples and live” as a more attractive
alternative. You could certainly live very nicely on these dishes.
Cucina Napoletana
Author: Arturo Lengo
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-989-6
Grown in Britain Cookbook
If you are British and in any way interested in organic produce, free range poultry and eggs, and low food
miles then this could well be the book for you. It’s a veritable
encyclopaedia of information on seasonal vegetables, organic producers
and it has 200 or so recipes to encourage you to use those lovely foods.
The author, Carolyn Humphries, has been a food journalist and writer
for over 30 years. She is a trained chef and the author of over 60
books. Grown in Britain Cookbook is a collaboration between Carolyn and
the Soil Association, who are responsible for the certification of
organic food. They have been promoting the links between healthy soil
and healthy plants and animals for years.
Many of us have concerns for the environment and food safety. There
have been plenty of scares lately to keep animal husbandry to the
forefront of the public debate. Vegetarians are no longer considered
cranks, and these days fewer of us want to buy strawberries to serve
with Christmas dinner. Financial constraints might restrict us from
being totally organic all the time but Grown in Britain Cookbook will
allow us to make informed choices.
It’s more important than ever to buy seasonal vegetables when they are
at their cheapest and best. Shops are full of every kind of produce so
it’s often difficult to appreciate what is actually in season. Grown in
Britain Cookbook gives you a month-by-month guide to what’s being
harvested, picked, collected, produced or caught. There are ample
photographs to show you exactly what purple sprouting broccoli looks
like, and recipes that will even tempt you into free food foraging.
Wild Nettles and Scrambled Egg only uses 20g of nettles so it won’t
take long to collect. They are said to be good for us, being high in
iron and minerals, and free, which always makes you feel better.
The recipes are a marvellous selection which make the best of fresh
produce. It’s not the beige, unappetising and chewy dishes of
yesteryear. These will tickle your palate without traumatising your
pocket. Fiery Peanut and Pepper Noodles are colourful and flavourful
and reflect the way we eat today. Creamy Calabrese and Blue Cheese
Puffs will be a welcome and tangy change from sausage rolls. Crunchy
Vegetable Crumble is a flexible recipe to use with any seasonal
vegetables. The rolled oat topping is a healthy twist on the
traditional crumble.
The great and the good of the food world have contributed recipes.
Sophie Grigson, Thane Prince and Atul Kochhar are a few from the list
who support the ethos of buying local and organic produce where
possible. Grown in Britain Cookbook is a showcase for fine foods that
are fresh and bursting with flavour. Take advantage of good value
British produce: we might not be growing mangos and oranges but we have
a wider selection of fruit and vegetables than ever before. Consider
the environment and serve your family healthy and delicious meals.
Grown in Britain Cookbook
Author: Carolyn Humphries
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-4040-3
Gale Gand’s Brunch
Brunch is a long-established American tradition. It’s easy to understand why it has become so popular. It is
an activity that combines social interaction and delicious food... or a
way of entertaining friends and family without the fuss and arduous
preparation of a full-scale dinner party.
Sunday morning (unless you are a priest or a vicar) is often a time
devoted to walking the dog, washing the car or cutting the lawn. Those
pleasurable (yeah, right) tasks could be postponed till the afternoon,
allowing pleasant morning hours of convivial companionship shared with
loved ones... and fabulous food.
Brunch food should be easily prepared, a delight for the eye and
present the kinds of dishes that can be consumed in an unhurried
fashion. Gale Gand's Brunch offers recipes that tick all the boxes. Not
only are all those boxes ticked but it’s done with style and
imagination. Brunch isn’t an excuse for an unreasonably early Sunday
lunch or a late breakfast. Somehow the English “Full Monty” (that fried
breakfast of legendary proportions) doesn’t have the class of Gale’s
marvellous spreads.
Gale Gand will be a familiar name to all US Food Network viewers. She
was the presenter of Sweet Dreams, the network’s first daily show
devoted to baking. Gale is an award winning pastry chef and co-owner of
the celebrated Tru restaurant in Chicago so it’s no surprise that the
dishes here are delectable. There are around 100 of them so you’ll be
hosting many a brunch before you need to cover the same territory again.
This book leads you through basic brunch favourites like Omelettes but
continues through a whole plethora of toasts, baked goods, savoury
dishes to salads and soups. There is enough variety here to cater for
the dietary whims of all the family ...even your nephew who will only
eat red food. Start him off with a Bloody Mary and feed him Gazpacho.
(It's probably only a phase he’s going through... although he is 46.)
Popovers will be something new for many of my British readers. Think of
the lightest imaginable Yorkshire Pudding and add some flavour. Gale
has Mini Popovers that are airy with a delicate hint of herbs and
irresistible with Lemon Butter. If you have a Yorkshire pudding tin or
muffin tin then you’ll be able to make these.
Baked Camembert has become a classic but Gale suggests a
Cranberry-Black Pepper Compote to serve alongside. That would add some
zing to a dish that is otherwise quite heavy. Caramelized Onion Tarts
are also inspired by the French and this is a fine example using
zucchini (courgette) and feta cheese. This recipe uses ready-bought
puff pastry, as does Peanut Butter and Jelly Turnovers which are bound
to be winners with the kids!
My favourite recipe from Gale Gand’s Brunch is that for Torta Rustica.
This is the most amazing layered pie of vegetables and ham (I am sure
you could make a vegetarian version.) This dish will impress your
guests and have them begging you for the recipe. There is more than a
full page of instructions but don’t be put off. It’s a simple recipe
but one of those that has several elements. A novice cook would gain
confidence and compliments.
Gale Gand’s Brunch will have us all inviting friends over for an
amazing feast. The cook will be able to enjoy the day as much as
his/her guests. I wouldn’t, however, reserve these brunch delights for
Sundays at 11am. You’ll find much here that will be equally well
received at lunches, picnics and dinners. Brilliant.
Gale Gand’s Brunch
Author: Gale Gand
Published by: Clarkson Potter
Price: $27.50US
ISBN 978-0-307-40698-9
Thailand- A World of Flavours
The author of Thailand - A World of Flavours is Christine Watson. The name doesn’t sound very Thai or
even Asian but, in fact, Christine grew up in South-East Asia and so
has been well placed to select dishes from Thailand that are certainly
authentic but are also appealing to the western palate. Christine
trained at the internationally renowned Leith’s School of Food and Wine
and now works as a food writer and stylist in London.
Christine gives a tantalising overview of Thai cuisine in the first
section of her book, and presents some classic dishes that those who
have travelled to Thailand, and Thai restaurant-goers, will recognise.
Fish Sauce with Chillies is as ubiquitous in Thailand as, say, ketchup
might be in the west. It’s simple to make but it will add that
distictive kick to Thai food. Chicken Pad Thai is one of the best known
of Thai dishes but Pad Thai can also be made with seafood or tofu.
Mangoes feature highly in Thai cooking, both sweet and juicy for
desserts, and unripe in salads. Christine offers a delicious Mango
sorbet that would be a charming finale to a traditional meal.
Each region of Thailand has its own cuisine which depends upon the
produce found in that area. The north is mountainous and far from the
sea so fish isn’t used so often. Pork, chicken and beef cooked in mild
curries are typical. The food of Southern Thailand has the flavours we
dream about. Coconut, fishcakes, shrimp and peanuts. The tropical
climate encourages coconut palms to flourish and those coconuts are
used to great effect in Coconut Beef Curry. This is quick to make but I
suggest you reduce the quantity of chillies unless you want an
authentically HOT Thai curry. It makes an impressive meal for little
effort.
There is a recipe in Thailand - A World of Flavours that would
encourage any Thai food lover to buy the book: it’s Chilli Preserve.
That might seem strange but it’s a recipe seldom seen. Many books give
rafts of instructions on how to make every dish from slow-cooked
curries to carved fruit but Chilli Preserve is the essence of Thai
cuisine.
Christine Watson is a writer who has evident passion for the food of
South-East Asia. Her selection of recipes shows the best of Thai
cooking and also introduces us to new delights that we can easily make
at home. It’s an attractive and enticing volume and great value for
money.
Thailand- A World of Flavours
Author: Christine Watson
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-320-8
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful cookbook I have ever reviewed. The floral cloth cover is a
vision of cottagey charm, and the quality of the paper used inside that
lovely binding sets this book apart. The artwork that recalls
between-the-wars China is stunning and presents a more stylish
impression than would the more often found shots of a contemporary food
market in Hong Kong (live fish in small buckets and snakes in jars
being the touristy norm) or a cleaver-wielding cook wearing a vest
(singlet or undershirt depending on the national origin of my dear
reader).
Neil Perry, the author, fell in love with Asian food at a very young
age. His dad had a passion for all things Chinese and would take his
son on visits to Sydney’s Chinatown to shop for ingredients and to eat.
These excursions evidently made a great impression on the young Neil.
Several decades later Neil has his own restaurant and he believes his
love of Asian food has helped him produce better dishes, whether Asian
or western.
Balance and Harmony is the name of the book, and the recipes reflect
that, guiding you to taste and adjust the seasonings and spices as you
cook, to achieve a dish that tantalises the palate. Neil isn’t
suggesting that food needs to be complicated, but it should have depth.
The book is divided into two sections. The first part covers Basic
Techniques and Recipes, and the second has Advanced Recipes and Banquet
Menus. I would think that all the recipes could be tackled by an
enthusiastic home cook, but the first chapters would be a good starting
point for the novice or those who are unfamiliar with Asian food.
There are lots of classic dishes here and the book is no worse for that. Prawn Toast is popular with restaurant goers but it makes lovely nibbles at western drinks parties. Sweet and Sour Pork has long had a
bad press. It’s often a nasty greasy mess of stodgy batter coated with
a sauce so bright you could read a book by its glow. Balance and
Harmony offers a homemade version that puts the Panda Paw Inn (I trust
there is, in reality, no such restaurant) to shame.
Tangerine Peel Chicken is a triumph. This is a Sichuan-inspired recipe
and has heat in the form of chillies as you might expect. The peel adds
a hint of citrus perfume that is subtle but unmistakable. Although this
recipe is found in the Advanced section it is in no way beyond even a
modestly adept cook.
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food is gift-quality and a stunner. The
recipes don’t disappoint and cover a wide spectrum of Chinese dishes to
tempt carnivores and non-meat eaters alike. It’s a delight.
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
Author: Neil Perry
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-74045-908-2
660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Yes, I knew that a book of some 660 curries was winging its way to me but I had no concept of what a
book of those aforementioned curries might look like. This is a
seriously big book that cuts no corners and skimps not a jot of detail,
advice, background or explanation.
The author Raghavan Iyer is a US-based Indian chef and educator. Both
those disciplines place him ideally for writing this Curry Bible, this
Subcontinental Encyclopaedia, this Master Work of Spicy Delight. I
don’t mean to rename Raghavan’s book but it should have a title that
more accurately reflects the breadth of the topic.
To tackle a cookbook of this size might be a daunting prospect,
especially for the novice cook. No need to be put off. Raghavan gently
takes your hand and leads you through every element of spice selection,
paste grinding, frying, grilling and simmering. He doesn’t assume that
you have a familiar and close relationship with your kitchen, and
you’ll not be confronted by recipes that are anything other than simple.
660 Curries offers every conceivable curry for every possible occasion.
I am impressed by Raghavan’s recipes for pastes and spice blends. These
take just a few minutes to prepare but add a taste of true authenticity
to dishes. Spices are readily available in stores or by mail order.
The recipes will tempt both meat eaters and vegetarians. Every meat has
its chapter and each vegetable has numerous possibilities. I love
lentils and beans, and I thought I had acquired a reasonable repertoire
of dishes but this book must contain every recipe ever devised. There
are many with which I am familiar, such as Moong Masoor Dal (Red and
Yellow Lentils) and Teen Taal Dal (Creamy Black Lentils) but that’s a
fraction of the Legume Curries listed.
Chicken is popular among non-vegetarian Indians and it was amusing to
find Chicken Tikka Masala. Yes, it’s said to be Britain’s National
dish. Raghavan points out that it was concocted entirely for Europeans,
but is delicious when made well. I guess we can still call it an
authentic Indian dish because it was originally cooked by authentic
Indians.
The chapter entitled Curry Cohorts is as important as the Curry
chapters. The Cohorts are those indispensible side dishes or
accompaniments. Rice is the obvious candidate, and Raghavan describes
10 alternatives to the plain boiled that tends to be the norm. There
are plenty of breads including traditional roti, as well as hearty
Mutter Kachoris (Flaky Breads stuffed with Spicy Green Peas).
An Indian meal isn’t quite complete without an array of other items to
nibble. Papads (or papadoms) can be used instead of bread with a curry
or served as an appetiser with some chutney or relish. Kachumber is a
fresh Indian “salsa” made with chopped cucumber, tomato and onion. It
is tangy and light and is amazing with fish. Nimboo Ka Achar is a lime
pickle and one of the most popular preserves. Raghavan has an easy
version that will add a tang to curries and breads but also to European
cheeses such as cheddar.
660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking departs from the savoury
theme just long enough to tempt you with Mango Cardamom Cheesecake.
This is unmistakably Indian. Well, OK, cheesecakes aren’t normally
considered to be an Indian invention, but the addition of cardamom
gives the impression that cheesecakes might well have been first
devised in a classy restaurant kitchen in Mumbai. A sprinkle of fresh
pomegranate seeds, and you have a stunning and exotic dessert.
It’s been my pleasure (mostly) to review hundreds of recipe books and
they have been well written and informative, but 660 Curries has a
place in my top 10 books reviewed to date. Raghavan has an easy style
of writing which is engaging and full of wry humour. I spend half my
life eating Indian food and reading Indian recipes but 660 Curries –
The Gateway to Indian Cooking has held my attention, introduced me to
new dishes and encouraged me to learn more. This is one of the largest
tomes to cross my desk (kitchen worktop on trestles) but the quality of
research and penmanship are what sets this book apart. Raghavan Iyer is
a remarkable ambassador for Indian food. Amazing value for money.
660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Author: Raghavan Iyer
Published by: Workman Publishing
Price: $ 22.95US
ISBN 978-0-7611-3787-0
Modern Spice
You know, dear reader, that Indian food is my passion. It’s been my pleasure to review many Indian
cookbooks written by India-born Indians, UK-born Indians, India-born
English, and now an India-born Indian living in the USA. Monica Bhide
is that Indian and she has penned a most delightful book that will be
as well received on this side of the pond as it is bound to be in the
US.
Modern Spice takes a look at Indian food and gives it a twist. None of
us have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We want food that is
flavourful, healthy and attractive but we don’t want to be taking all
day cooking it. Monica has a life full of children, work and husband
(in no particular order) but she still wants to present food that
reflects her rich heritage. She takes advantage of ingredients that are
readily available in western supermarkets and adds Indian spices to
create a selection of new recipes that are both Asian and Western. This
isn’t fusion food, it’s evolution food.
You don’t have to be a practised preparer of subcontinental food. There
is plenty of advice here to set you off on your culinary journey. The
first chapters introduce you to the spice pantry and then Monica’s
Kitchen Rules. Nothing to make you anxious, just good sound cooking
know-how.
Monica has captured the essence of Indian food but she has transformed
it. These dishes are both accessible and charmingly different from
those that we more often see in European-targeted cookbooks. The Indian
“Burger” is traditional street food but Monica has adapted it for the
western kitchen. This is comfort food at its spicy best. Heirloom
Tomato Salad with Chat Masala has few ingredients and fewer directions
but the result is both refreshing and spicy. Again, it’s using great
produce to present something that is unique and appealing.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of favourite recipes from Modern
Spice. The Legendary Chicken 65 will become... well, legendary. It’s
that combination of deep-fried food (don’t look at me that way, I am
not eating it every day) and a spicy oil as a garnish.
Green Beans Subzi can be made with frozen green beans. This is a
marvellous side dish to some plain roast meat. Yes, it has the
unmistakable flavour of India but you don’t need to use Indian dishes
just with Indian meals. There is so much in Modern Spice that you can
mix and match with the European.
True, this is a cookbook, and a very fine one, but if you just read the
recipes you will miss so much. Monica’s life has taken her from India
to Bahrain and then to America. Modern Spice is a book made richer by
family anecdotes, stories of laughter and tears. It’s a warm-hearted
page-turner with lovely recipes. Modern Spice should become a classic
of contemporary Indian cuisine. It’s not a compromise, it’s fresh and
inviting.
Modern Spice
Author: Monica Bhide
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: $25.00, £17.19
ISBN 13: 978-1-4165-6659-5