Colombo Kitchen Putney
Deliciously Different!
Where do I start with this one? I have been a restaurant reviewer for a couple of decades and have written a book on Indian restaurants in London. None of that prepared me for a Sri Lankan meal at Colombo Kitchen in Putney!
I was, first, impressed by the staff. One can not often say that. Managers, servers and mixologist were all bright, friendly and engaged. The owner Chef Sylvia Perera has evidently set the calibre of staff as a high priority. That care makes a difference to the customer experience.
This Colombo Kitchen is located in the vibrant centre of Putney. It attracts locals and those from farther away, as its bus and train links couldn’t be better. The main seating area is down a few stairs and is cosy and inviting. The bar is well stocked, with an experienced barman concocting special Sri Lankan cocktails served in impressive ‘tiki’ mugs as well as classic drinks. There is an outside seating area should we get the weather to cooperate.
Chef Sylvia presents an authentic taste of Sri Lanka. Sylvia’s achievements have been recognised with several prestigious awards, with the restaurant’s celebrated Lamprais having the accolade of a 2-star Great Taste Award from the Guild of Fine Food. In 2019, Sylvia opened her first restaurant, Colombo Kitchen in Worcester Park, and opened this second branch in Putney in 2024.
So many of the dishes here were new to me. Colombo Kitchen has a couple of must-trys (though all the menu items deserve a taste). Their Hoppers are visually attractive and fun to eat, and are served as a starter or ‘short eat’. They are unique cup-shaped pancakes made in bespoke pans and cooked till the edges are lacy and crisp and the rest of the batter is steamed/fried to fluffy perfection. The secret Hopper batter recipe is known only to Chef Sylvia and two other members of her team (so I assume they are never allowed to fly together).
Colombo Toddy
While perusing the menu we ordered a couple of cocktails from the imposing bar. The Colombo Toddy made with arrack, spiced rum, pineapple juice, passionfruit, lime and ginger beer was refreshing and fruity. My companion was taken by the mug of Gara Yaka which was prepared with homemade citrus rum, lemongrass, pineapple, lemon and ginger beer – another pleasing libation. Gara Yaka is a benevolent Sri Lankan spirit, and it is represented on masks as well as this mug. Its well-wishes perhaps contributed to our delightful evening and a safe trip home on South Western Railway.
We were also intrigued by the Fish Pattis and they didn’t disappoint either. These were beautifully presented empanadas filled with spicy mackerel, moist and well-flavoured. A serving comprises two Pattis and you might consider sharing, but one bite and you will regret that moment of generosity. Advise your guest to order their own, as fighting at a restaurant table is never a good look.
Another signature dish here is Kottu, one more culinary revelation at Colombo Kitchen. The secret of success for a Kottu lies in the ratio of the chopped roti to the curry. Vegetables with, in my case, chicken curry and a choice of mild, medium, hot or extra hot combined to make a plate of pure comfort. Kottu has a soft texture which leaves the diner craving another bite. This was an exceptional dish and at first glance simple, but here it is a little triumph and a dish for which I will return time and again.
My guest chose a gravy curry with a side of Saffron rice, and he pronounced this bowl to be excellent. Negombo King Prawn Curry has a base of mildly spiced coconut milk, which paired well with our Coconut Roti with a selection of relishes. They were substantial and perfect for dipping. These and a lentil curry would make for a flavourful lunch.
Colombo Kitchen is a gastronomic gem, an epicurean destination and now one of my favourite restaurants. The Putney branch has so much to recommend it, from the food to the charm of the staff. I look forward to returning.
Colombo Kitchen Putney
Usual opening hours:
Wednesday and Thursday – 5pm to 10pm
Friday, Saturday & Sunday – 12 noon to 10pm
