Amalfi St Paul’s
Italian Food by the Cathedral.
I have been a restaurant reviewer for more than 20 years and I tend to be sceptical when a venue says it’s ‘near’ anything. But Amalfi truly is in the shadow of St Paul’s; the restaurant, and its food, deserve such an iconic location.
St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the most famous and recognisable buildings in London. Sir Christopher Wren’s dome has dominated the skyline for more than 300 years. Yes, there are now numerous towering office blocks, but none have the beauty and history of this magnificent church. Pick a window table at Amalfi and you will have a wonderful view!
This newly opened Italian restaurant is a delight. I know it’s a matter of personal taste, but I really enjoyed its attractive facade, the bright interior, its decor and ambiance. It has already attracted a regular clientele of office workers as well as just a few tourists who have been lucky enough to find their way here. But it’s the food which will assure many happy returns.
We were introduced to the menu by the friendly staff. Plenty of classic dishes here, and a few innovations and twists too. We started with a brace of cocktails. Malfy Con Arancia was my guest’s choice. A blood-orange flavoured gin, distilled with the peel of Sicilian blood oranges and garnished with a slice of orange was refreshing and full of citrus flavour. I enjoyed an Italian Cherry Sour: Luxardo Maraschino, Disaronno, Cherry liqueur, and fresh lemon juice was shaken with aquafaba to produce a pink and frothy creation with a rich sour cherry edge.
Piping-hot and delicious
Nduja Spiced Arancini was my starter. This is a traditional dish, but Amalfi adds a little flair. The Sicilian-style rice balls, for they were smaller and more numerous that the usual single cannonball of other restaurants, were piping-hot and delicious. The rice was spiced with red ’nduja sausage, coated in crunchy golden breadcrumbs, and served with a pool of sweet red pepper aioli. I would have just this and a glass of wine as a snack if I didn’t have time for lunch.
Wild Mushroom Fondue was my guest’s unique starter. I know I have found a great restaurant when I leave with the desire to kidnap the chef and demand the recipe for this gem of a savoury dip. Mozzarella and porcini fondue with chestnut mushrooms was topped with Gran Maser cheese and served with giant ciabatta crostinis, which were the perfect vehicle for that melty temptation.
Margherita Pizza with Mozzarella, tomato and basil was my guest’s following and main dish. This man has discerning taste when it comes to pizza. His first ever encounter with a pizza was in Italy, and he continues to look for anything to come up to that high-set pizza bar. This one did. It’s all about the crust which in this case was thin, soft and well-baked, and delicate yet perfectly correct toppings. There is a selection of additional toppings to allow the diner to customise at will. The Amalfi Margherita Pizza was pronounced ‘first class’ by this connoisseur.
Generous portion
Spaghetti Carbonara was my choice of classic dishes. It’s popular for a reason. There are many versions of this comfort food, and this one had a base of a rich egg and cream sauce with Italian cheese, smoked pancetta and freshly ground black pepper. This was a generous portion of well-seasoned pasta, and the ideal plate for a cold wintery day in the City of London.
Mango and Pistachio Budino was our shared dessert. The meal was copious so there was just enough room left for a small, sweet bite. Mango sorbet and plant-based vanilla gelato, rolled in lemon polenta crumb and toasted pistachio nuts, was served with warm chocolate sauce. It was tangy, cool and textured, and a lovely ending to a memorable introduction to Amalfi in the shadow of St Paul’s.
Amalfi St Paul’s
5-14 St. Paul’s Churchyard
London, EC4M 8AY
Opening times:
Monday: 07:30 – 22:00
Tuesday: 07:30 – 22:00
Wednesday: 07:30 – 22:00
Thursday: 07:30 – 22:00
Friday: 07:30 – 22:30
Saturday: 08:00 – 22:30
Sunday: 08:00 – 22:00
