A restaurant anywhere that has endured for 94 years or so must be worth visiting. A restaurant of that vintage in London should have statues erected and probably have its own anthem. Not sure what that might be, but perhaps “When Irish eyes are smiling.”
Bentley’s welcomed its first guests in 1916. One commiserates with those who have recently opened restaurants in the Capital in the teeth of a recession, but one can only wonder at the emotions of Messrs Bentley dealing with the First World War with its fear and privations. Even more sobering when one considers there was another War to end all Wars a couple of decades down the line.
The Bentleys owned some oyster beds near Colchester so it was a natural progression to own a restaurant to serve the shellfish. Oysters were not always the luxury product they are today. Henry Mayhew, the celebrated Victorian social historian, commented that “The number of oysters sold by the costermongers (street vendors) amounts to 124,000,000 a year.” Oysters had a higher fiscal profile by the turn of the century but the Bentleys hedged their culinary bets with the first-floor dining rooms. They were still going strong when in 1961 young restaurant critic Egon Ronay wrote: “The two Mr Bentleys are not only excellent restaurateurs; they are also oyster farmers who sell their delicious produce all over the country.”
The restaurant is no longer owned by the Bentley family but it still has the same name and location. The same beautiful striking Victorian building in Swallow Street. It is now thankfully part-pedestrianised allowing a front terrace of traffic-free calm just a few yards from the ever-frantic Piccadilly. The facade has been described as both Arts and Crafts and Italianate and it’s charming, but the interior beckoned, and it lived up to the promise that the outside had offered.
Irish-born Richard Corrigan is an easily recognisable figure and much taller than he seems on television (mental note to self – buy a bigger TV). Richard spent four years cooking in the Netherlands before becoming head chef of Mulligan’s in Mayfair. His first Michelin star was awarded at Stephen Bull’s Blandford Street restaurant in 1994. Richard launched the Lindsay House in Soho in 1997 and was awarded a Michelin star. That restaurant has now moved to Upper Grosvenor Street as “Corrigan’s”.
In 2005 Richard seized the chance to restore Bentley’s to its former glory when it came up for sale, and in November that same year the doors were opened again. The old restaurant had been refurbished but retains much of the original Arts and Crafts style. It still serves oysters, fish and seafood as well as meat dishes and classic puds. In 2008 Richard expanded the Bentley’s empire with a sister restaurant, Bentley’s Townhouse, in the heart of Dublin on St Stephen’s Green.
The ground floor of Bentley’s London (there is a well-appointed basement room for private dining) welcomes one with a marble topped bar, red upholstered booths and oil paintings. The oyster bar nestles behind that bar but I left it for another visit. The first-floor Grill had a table with my name on it. A light and airy room with William Morris prints and panelled walls – the original features have been preserved in furnishings and textiles.
Open for lunch and dinner, the upper-storey Grill is divided into the Grill Room (36 covers), Rib Room (34 covers) and the Crustacea Room (14 covers). We settled by the window of the Grill Room and perused the menu. Bentley’s has its own bakery and patisserie so we were assured of moreish nibbles when the anchovy straws and bread arrived.
The menu changes frequently and has its focus on fresh and seasonal ingredients with providence. Their fish is sourced as locally as possible (no, not from the Thames) and is fully traceable, often back to individual fishing boats. Both Bentley’s and Corrigan’s support small farming and fishing communities, with consideration for sustainability on both land and sea. They source produce like smoked salmon from Frank Hedderman in Ireland, and finest West Cork beef. Richard sits on the UK Advisory Board of the Slow Food Movement, which has been championed by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, promoting their philosophy of good, fair food.
The oyster bar is on the ground floor but those same oysters are also here on the restaurant menu. Maldon Natives, Loch Ryan Natives sound like groups of extras from “Gangs of New York”. The Shellfish Platter here is the sort of elevated confection more reminiscent of St. Tropez than Soho. Magnificent in all its piled and draped glory. For those anxious carnivores fine lamb and mixed grills are also available.
It’s a restaurant famed for all things piscatorial though, so my choices reflected that. I started with Stuffed Baby Squid with Chorizo and Organic Feta. Squid and this spicy, paprika-laden sausage is a classic combination and the version here illustrated why it has remained so popular. A dish of tender cephalopod and flavourful light broth. Fresh tastes and delightful texture.
The fish pie at Bentley’s is famed, and a legend with those in the know. A fish pie can be both comforting and luxurious, but a triumph or an unmitigated disaster. Royal Fish Pie with lobster (its head as garnish), scallops, haddock and tiger prawns is a high-end example of a perennial favourite. The mashed potato crust was golden and flecked with deeper colour hiding a bubbling and creamy sauce with chunks of seafood. This might not be the cheapest fish pie you’ll ever have but I’d venture to say that it might be the most memorable. A side dish of spinach completed my main course, added more for colour than gastronomic necessity.
Save room for a dessert. Steamed Apple Sponge and Custard, or Fig Roll and Saffron Ice Cream could be on offer, or perhaps some Wild Damson and Blackberry Trifle. If you prefer some more savouries then go for the cheeseboard which could be St. Eadburgha, Leagram’s Mature Lancashire, Colston Bassett, Oat Cookies and Dates. I just needed something to keep the dessert wine company, and Bentley’s Petits Fours took my fancy. A selection of miniature tarts, chocolates and caramels made on the premises. It was a shame to dismantle such an attractive presentation… but I managed.
Bentley’s was all I had hoped it to be. The best food, attentive service and elegant surroundings. I’ll return to enjoy oysters on the ground floor… although that Grill Room is enticing.
Opening Times
Oyster & Champagne Bar
Monday – Saturday 12pm to 12midnight
Sunday 12pm to 10pm
The Grill
Monday – Saturday:
Lunch 12pm to 3pm
Dinner 6pm to 11pm
Sunday:
Dinner 6pm to 10pm
Bentleys Oyster Bar and Grill
11-15 Swallow Street, London W1B 4DG
Phone: +44 (0)20 7734 4756
Fax: +44 (0)20 7758 4140
Email: reservations@bentleys.org
Restaurant review by Chrissie Walker © 2018