B\u014dkan is part of the new Novotel which is said to be the tallest Novotel in the world. Its address is Marsh Wall on the Isle of Dogs, which was originally marshland before its drainage in the 13th century. A devastating flood in 1488 returned it to its natural soggy condition, which continued until Dutch engineers re-drained it in the 17th century; a number of windmills were built along the top of the flood defence.<\/p>\n The western side of the island became known as Marsh Wall, and it was also a spot where pirates were hung! The Isle of Dogs was a thriving dock area until containerisation ended the need for such industry so near the centre of London, although there is still plenty of evidence of its shipping history.<\/p>\n These days the River Thames bustles, but with small pleasure craft rather than cargo boats, and it\u2019s been a long while since rogues of the high seas swung from gibbets. This area glistens with glass and polished metal and exudes an air of sophistication. It\u2019s the heart of the world of finance, but also of leisure.<\/span><\/p>\n B\u014dkan has stunning views over London \u2013 both established and new. One can follow the river upstream as it flows under Tower Bridge. The London Eye winks in the distance and those City skyscrapers overshadow older and arguably more beautiful buildings which have been long-loved by locals and tourists alike.<\/p>\n B\u014dkan, as all of us who are fluent in Anglo-Saxon will know, means lighthouse or beacon. The d\u00e9cor, however, is contemporary with metalwork, exposed wooden floors, leather chairs and weighty menu clipboards in copper. The overall ambiance is smartly casual, friendly and inclusive.<\/p>\n Yes, those unbeatable views will entice many a visitor but the food is the element which will assure a return, and there will likely be many of those. Chef Aurelie Altemaire, former head chef at L\u2019Atelier de Jo\u00ebl Robuchon, is responsible for this restaurant and she deserves to be proud. She has crafted a Sunday brunch menu which is short but marvellously formed, and unlimited bubbles will encourage even the most brunch-hardened to give the dishes a chance \u2013 and those plates don\u2019t disappoint.<\/p>\n The Bottomless Prosecco Sunday Brunch and must surely be one of the best in London. Yes, as I have mentioned, the menu isn\u2019t long but it offers something for every preference and inclination. I started with Tiger Prawn Tempura with avocado, little gem lettuce in wedges, lime dressing with a soup\u00e7on of Espelette chilli. That spice is rather unique and from the Basque region of France. It\u2019s a mild chilli with flavour and one of which this chef is evidently fond.<\/p>\n Steamed Hen\u2019s Egg, confit red peppers, with smoked duck and oatmeal tuile was my guest\u2019s first course and it was beautifully smoked meat bathed with a sunny yellow yolk. The homemade bread and salted butter here was a perfect dipping side with this one.<\/p>\n My companion has a manly meaty appetite and the Free-range T-bone Pork Chop appealed to him. This dish will delight anyone who loves flavourful pork, cooked to tender perfection and glistening with umami-rich jus. Jersey Royal potatoes and padron peppers completed this substantial plateful.<\/p>\n This chap who had just professed himself to be stuffed to the gills still managed a dessert and it was a classic of French patisserie. Paris-Brest was a creation of pastry chef Louis Durand back in 1910. The request for a special dessert came from the organizer of the popular Paris-Brest-Paris bicycle race. The original version was in the shape of a ring to represent the wheel of a bike but here the choux pastry is formed into buns filled with a light and sweet praline mousse.<\/p>\n B\u014dkan has been the highlight of a very good reviewing year so far. I am impressed with the skill and imagination of Chef Aurelie Altemaire. She is definitely on her way to more accolades and a starry future.<\/p>\n Bottomless brunch B\u014dkan Phone: 020 3530 0550![\"bokan](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/bokan-black-skyline-web.jpg\")
<\/span><\/p>\n![\"bokan](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/bokan-tempura-salad-2-web.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"bokan](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/bokan-egg-salmon-3-web.jpg\")
The food at B\u014dkan encompasses English with a hint of French, with presentations that are beautiful and thoughtful. Chef Altemaire has flair but that never stoops to unnecessary culinary bling. Every showy garnish is there for a reason and is adding to the core ingredient. There is plenty of innovation but this is, in some regards, solid old-fashioned cooking, albeit refined. It\u2019s all about good taste.<\/p>\n![\"bokan](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/bokan-garlic-web.jpg\")
I continued with the eggy brunch theme for my main course. Crispy Egg Royale was a poached egg atop a crouton and surrounded by an ample portion of hot smoked salmon from Maldon in Essex. This was served with a garnish of a bright and light wasabi hollandaise \u2013 another winner.<\/p>\n![\"bokan](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/bokan-paris-brest-web.jpg\")
Mango and Yoghurt Jar was my noble finale. This was a small carafe with layers of fresh chopped fruit over creamy and thick yoghurt, with mango sorbet on the side. Granted, the mangoes are not local, although they soon might be given the prospect of global warming!<\/p>\n
\n12 noon to 2pm (Sat-Sun-Bank holidays)<\/p>\n
\nFloor 37-39
\n40 Marsh Wall
\nLondon E14 9TP<\/p>\n
\nEmail: hello@bokanlondon.co.uk<\/p>\n