{"id":560,"date":"2016-09-15T16:45:05","date_gmt":"2016-09-15T15:45:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/wp\/?p=560"},"modified":"2026-02-09T16:00:16","modified_gmt":"2026-02-09T16:00:16","slug":"bird-of-smithfield","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/index.php\/bird-of-smithfield\/","title":{"rendered":"Bird of Smithfield – restaurant review"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sounds like a family butchers which might have been trading for a brace of centuries. It is, in fact, a newish restaurant but right next to Smithfield Market, which has a much longer history.<\/span><\/p>\n

Smithfield Market or, more officially, London Central Markets, is the largest wholesale meat market in the UK and one of the largest in Europe. It\u2019s found within the Square Mile of the City of London and it\u2019s housed in three imposing listed buildings not far from Barbican and St Paul\u2019s Cathedral. There has been a livestock market on this site for over 800 years; it has remained in continuous operation since medieval times.<\/p>\n

\"Bird Since the late 1990s Smithfield has become more of a social hub and has developed a reputation with City types who frequent its bars, restaurants and nightclubs. Bird of Smithfield joined the ranks of those local hospitality establishments a couple of years ago and is already a destination restaurant of character.<\/p>\n

A Georgian-style townhouse has been transformed into Bird of Smithfield, Alan Bird’s restaurant featuring contemporary British cuisine. These labyrinthine premises boast two bars, a rooftop terrace, a private dining room and a restaurant, all this covering five floors.<\/p>\n

Bird has eclectic design. There are still original features but the d\u00e9cor is a melange of tasteful retro with hints of earlier ages. The first-floor restaurant sports a mirrored ceiling which adds drama. Plenty of neutral colours on soft furnishings, with vibrancy from artwork.<\/p>\n

The menu isn\u2019t huge but I don\u2019t think it needs to be. There are traditional dishes and some with a twist but all just right for this location. Guests seem to be after-hours city workers, although I dream of an early morning tour of the historic market followed by breakfast at Bird\u2019s. Or perhaps a few hours wandering the uplifting environs of St Paul\u2019s, with lunch at Bird\u2019s.<\/p>\n

A culinary archive<\/h4>\n

Smoked Mackerel and Crab Pat\u00e9 garnished with boiled egg with creamy yolk was my starter, although in reality we had scoffed the small loaf of freshly baked bread and generous pat of butter as our pre-starter-starter. The crab was delicate and the associated salad was fresh and light.<\/p>\n

Herb and London Gin-cured Salmon was my guest\u2019s starter and it was a substantial portion of mild-cured fish. Salmon was once common in the Thames; gin has long been associated with London and was the downfall of many a citizen at a time when the water could kill you. This dish is a culinary archive and delicious too.<\/p>\n

Traditional Cod and Chips with tartare sauce and mushy peas was my main dish. Yes, more fish, and just outside a meat market but it\u2019s associated with Britain just as much as is roast beef. This plate defeated me: it was a considerable portion of well-battered fish that seemed more steamed in its crunchy casing than fried in oil. Golden and not at all greasy, this is a must-try, especially for tourists. I am a great supporter of the local fish and chip shop but they are few and far between these days and they are of variable quality, but Bird\u2019s do this classic every bit as well as the white-tiled emporiums of yore. And those peas truly are meant to be that way and they are a comforting garnish to the perfect chips. Please don\u2019t ask for ketchup – it just doesn\u2019t work.<\/p>\n

\"Bird Signature dish<\/h4>\n

Alan\u2019s Shepherd\u2019s Pie was my guest\u2019s main course and it\u2019s a signature dish of the aforementioned chef\/owner Alan Bird. This had a well-textured and flavourful lamb meat filling, with a decorative piped mashed potato topping. There was a small serving of peas but this hearty eater needed a side, and buttered spinach was a good choice. The only complaint was that the meat element could have been more generous. Perhaps that\u2019s just an illustration of the degree of enjoyment expressed by the diner.<\/p>\n

Plum and Sherry Trifle is another very English offering. This was an individual serving of fruit, jelly, custard and cream. Another hefty helping so if you are modest eaters you might want to split one. If you are a dessert aficionado then perhaps forego the loaf of bread on arrival.<\/p>\n

Bird of Smithfield is unique. It offers authentic British food, well-presented and no distracting frills. I was impressed with my meal and also with the quality of the service, which had more in common with fine, rather than smart\/casual, dining. Birds is a must if you work in the City or are visiting. If they keep an eye on standards then this could become an institution.<\/p>\n

Opening times
\n8.00 am \u2013 12 midnight Monday to Friday,
\n12 noon \u2013 12 midnight Saturday
\nClosed on Sundays<\/p>\n

Bird of Smithfield
\n26 Smithfield Street
\nLondon EC1A 9LB<\/p>\n

[This venue is now closed.]<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Restaurant review by Chrissie Walker \u00a9 2018<\/em><\/p>\n

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