![\"Taruzake](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/japanese-porcelain-boat-sake-web.jpg\")
Sure, the world of sake is new and mysterious to most of us. Japan\u2019s national beverage is made of few ingredients but there are many styles and each one has its own history and its own character. We are being offered a wider range of sake in Japanese restaurants but it\u2019s a shame that non-Japanese restaurants are not aware of the Sake Buzz, the sake wave of appreciation.<\/p>\n
There is one variety of sake that has always intrigued me, one with a very pronounced flavour \u2013 of wood. No, not the taste of knotty pine nor the richness of mahogany (although I have never had a chew of either of those). Here we are talking cedar and that taste is there for a reason which dates back centuries.<\/p>\n
Let\u2019s put this into historic context. Until the beginning of the 20th century sake was stored and transported in wooden barrels made of Japanese cedar called sugi. It was only when it reached the sake shop that it was put into ceramic vessels. These vessels can still be seen if one is lucky enough to visit a sake brewery, many of which have been plying their trade for more than a dozen generations.<\/p>\n
![\"Taruzake](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/nagoya-sake-barrels-3-web.jpg\")
Taruzake sake (also called Taru) is the name of this distinctive style of sake. It is aged in casks or barrels called \u2018taru\u2019 from which it gets its name. These days the sake stays in wood for only a couple of weeks and then it\u2019s bottled in glass.\u00a0 It isn\u2019t exported in wood as it takes too long in transit. Any longer aging than a couple of weeks impairs the delicacy and produces a sake which has overpowering flavour and aroma. The iconic barrel is usually made of cedar wood and is different in each region. Cedar grown in the Yoshino district of Nara is considered the most prized for the job. The wood imparts a distinctive light smoky cinnamon scent and flavour which is quite unique and which I find rather pleasant.<\/p>\n
Taruzake is a very popular drink in Japan on New Year\u2019s Eve. It is essential at every kagami biraki cask-opening event. The fourth Tokugawa Shogun, Tokugawa Ietsuna (1641 \u2013 1680) is thought to be the first one to hold this lid-breaking ceremony. Before going to war he gathered his daimyo (feudal lords) at his castle to break open a sake barrel. The battle was won and so this colourful tradition was started and is seen at various celebrations and auspicious occasions.<\/p>\n
Taruzake is delicious when paired with smoked fish and robust meat dishes, but surprisingly it works well with creamy cheeses. I was introduced to this combination at a cheese and sake pairing event with Kiko Ito of La Fromagerie in London. Here we tasted Taruzake with Burrata cheese mixed with Cr\u00e8me Fra\u00eeche garnished with Japanese soy sauce and wasabi. Masterful!<\/p>\n The weather is cool so an ideal time to sip a sake which has warming notes on both the palate and the nose.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n![\"Taruzake](\"http:\/\/www.mostlyfood.co.uk\/img\/wooden-sake-boxes-1-web.jpg\")
<\/span>A traditional kizuchi (mallet) is used to break open the lid of the small and ornate cask. These casks and associated accoutrements can actually be hired for events.\u00a0 For smaller gatherings an extra barrel bottom is fixed half way up so as to reduce the quantity of sake within. A hishaku (wooden ladle) is used for dipping into the sake cask and pouring the taruzake into a square masu. These are traditional wooden boxes which were originally used to portion out rations of rice.\u00a0 The word \u2018masu\u2019 means growth in Japanese, and so these boxes or wooden cups are also symbols of good fortune.<\/span><\/p>\n