2011 Restaurant reviews

2011 Asian Restaurant reviews

Updated 8th March 2012
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China Tang – The Dorchester

Mercer Street Hotel - Dial Restaurant

Banana Tree – Soho

Zizzi Twickenham

So what’s the draw of Twickenham? It’s got a riverfront – undeveloped for decades for some inexplicable reason. Its high street offers a selection of small chain stores with the usual sprinkling of charity shops. The rugby stadium is an asset with (for the most part) well-behaved supporters who enjoy the variety of bars and restaurants in the area.

I must have passed Zizzi on numerous occasions but, to be honest, I have never noticed it. Having opened its first restaurant in 1999, the chain now has more than 100 across the UK. The Twickenham branch has undergone a makeover and it’s now a much lighter and brighter space. It has the same general theme as others in the extensive chain but as manager Maria explains, each branch has some subtle local references. Zizzi Twickenham has an Astroturf wall and a few words written by Alexander Pope. No, dear ill-educated reader, Mr. Pope is not a rugby player. He was a celebrated poet (1688 – 1744) who lived about half a mile from where the restaurant now stands.

Zizzi offers a traditional Italian menu of pasta, pizza and risotto along with some meat and salads, but we wanted to try their small plates, Cichetti. Think Italian tapas and you will have the idea. There is a good selection of vegetarian specialities and meaty dishes to please every palate. They offer an alternative to a full meal, but a few plates together would be a substantial dinner. Great for a group or for a family of even the fussiest eaters.

We ordered six savoury dishes and later a dessert, and that constituted a very reasonable meal for both me and my companion. Some hot dishes and others cold: I would recommend eating the hot ones as they arrive. Saccottini – two mini calzone: one with spicy n’Duja sausage and rocket, and one with pesto and aubergine filling – should be eaten as soon as they are served.

Bruschetta ai Funghi – Mushrooms in a rich mascarpone, wine and thyme sauce, served on top of mini ciabatta bread – was rich and creamy and would surely be a favourite with the kids.

Gamberi – King prawns cooked in a fish and wine stock with a pinch of chilli, served with freshly baked dough sticks – were succulent and the broth well-flavoured; so delicious that I was sorry we hadn’t ordered extra bread for mopping up the juices. Just a hint of agreeable heat from the spice.

Polpette al Pomodoro – Mini beef meatballs with tomatoes, onions and mushrooms – also offered a sauce that invited bread-dipping. These were a small version of the meatballs you would likely have sampled in restaurants in Italy or even, if you are as lucky as I to have Italian friends, at a family dinner table.

Spiedini di Pollo – Oven-baked chicken skewers with roasted peppers, rosemary and lemon – were tender, with the roasted peppers offering a sweetness that bathed the meat. An attractive presentation and a delight with a chilled glass of Prosecco.

The Gay Hussar

I love reviewing restaurants. Most people would say I have the best job in the world and I would agree. I eat all over London and, increasingly, around the rest of the world, and it’s a privilege. A good choice of words, as The Gay Hussar is one of the few restaurants for which I now have a loyalty card.

The Gay Hussar has been around since 1953 and was opened by Victor Sassie who was an iconic restaurateur for 34 years; he was the son of a Swiss emigrant who arrived in Cardiff and married a local girl. They moved to the shipyards of Barrow-in-Furness where Victor was born in 1915. He had a passion for Hungarian cooking and eventually became an honorary Hungarian on account of his food.

Victor has sadly gone but the restaurant has remained very much in its original form and that, along with its superb food, is its strength. The Gay Hussar is at the “other end” of Greek Street but it has garnered loyal followers and continues to attract new ones. It has a certain and very definite charm that’s difficult to emulate. The restaurant has a timeless ambiance that has to have evolved naturally.

The Gay Hussar is set in a Georgian town house – a cosy ground floor with two additional private dining rooms above. Dark wood panels are hung with cartoons of celebrated politicians and statesmen who made this restaurant their own semi-private club. It was famed as a haunt of Labour Party grandees back in the days when there were real characters, and a smattering of outspoken eccentrics, at the helm or gracing the parliamentary back-benches.

I can understand the draw. The food here encourages relaxed and lingering meals punctuated with good conversation (politics not obligatory). The portions are famously substantial and delicious, with dishes that range from the comforting and rustic to the striking and smart. Both styles are representative of Hungarian cuisine, with roots in either the countryside or the sophisticated cities of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Goulash is the dish that comes to mind when one thinks of Hungarian food. Most people’s lexicon of dishes probably starts and ends with that. If you want to try the real thing then order the hearty Gulyásleves – Beef Goulash Soup – as a starter, but we wanted to taste as broad a range of starters as possible so we chose Hideg Izelito – mixed Hungarian hors d'oeuvres – which was a large plate of most of the cold collation. We shared this platter and I would advise all those other than rugby players to do the same: there will be more delights to come, so save room.

Csirkepaprikás – Chicken in Creamy Paprika Sauce – is a well-loved favourite and it has all the typical characteristics of Hungarian food: it’s rich, flavourful, with plenty of the sweet paprika for which the country is renowned. But I wanted a simple main course so I chose Brassói Ermék – Pan-Fried Pork Fillet with Diced Potatoes, Bacon and Garlic. This was moreish peasant-style fare with crispy nuggets of potatoes flecked with the aforementioned spice.

Füstölt Libamell – Smoked Breast of Goose with Sólet and Red Cabbage – took my guest’s fancy. This was a striking and cheffy presentation but the ingredients were far from nouvelle, showcasing still more of the Hungarian culinary tapestry.

Dobos Torta – Layered Gateau with Caramel Top – is a classic Hungarian dessert but even in Hungary it’s more often bought than made at home, a restaurant and coffee shop favourite. Well worth a try if you have a gap to fill.

Brasserie Joël at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge

London is my home so I admit that I probably have a bias. I think it is one of the most fascinating cities in the world. It’s historic, cultural and cosmopolitan, and the celebrated attractions cover a reasonably small area. A well-placed hotel will have you at the heart of everything on your holiday wish-list.

You don’t have to be a tourist to be impressed by the view from this new and contemporary hotel. It’s a 3D version of the postcard visitors would send home to the family...but it’s got, in true Harry Potter fashion, moving traffic and river boats ...and the Houses of Parliament ...and the tower of Big Ben ...and the London Eye. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge is a destination hotel in every regard.

I personally never tire of that vista – it changes with the weather and the time of day – but a hotel must be comfortable to warrant a visit, and must be something special to deserve a return booking. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge ticks lots of boxes: location, facilities, dining options and thoughtful design.

The reception for this hotel is on the first floor to take advantage of that aforementioned vision of our seat of government and the eponymous bridge. It’s an expansive open space that could take on the cramped characteristics of an airport check-in area were not its visitors encouraged to leave their luggage on the lower level, so without that clutter the first floor remains striking and spacious. The restaurants and bars are on this level but are tucked away in corners to avoid that shopping-mall food-hall ambiance that so often tarnishes the stars of large hotels. Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar, 1WB Lounge and Patisserie, Espressamente Illy coffee bar as well as Brasserie Joël are all here, offering everything from light snacks to more substantial meals.

Our room was on the 12th floor and just as contemporary as the public spaces, well-appointed with high-end toiletries, bath and shower. The bathroom acted as a divider between the bedroom and the lounge space. This sported a cream leather sofa that doubled as a bed, turning this stylish unit into a family suite with just a click or two. It’s an ideal office space for those unfortunates who, like us, work on the run. Wardrobe doors with glass murals, mirrors and a brace of suspended flat-screen TVs impress the guest with techy international vibe. Modern, not minimalist, luxury.

I had expected the ubiquitous mini-bar and I wasn’t disappointed, but there were other practical touches to this comprehensive refreshment station: a microwave, kettle and cutlery to allow guests to bring in their own food. The foresighted management know that times are tough and food can be a worry when there’s a hotel bill to pay along with entrance tickets (thank goodness at least museums are free in London). Kids just want familiar meals and here parents can provide those, just like at home.

thick slice of melting braised potato was the main course for my partner. He asked for his beef to be rare and it was indeed cooked to that specification. There was a ring of colour from the searing but the centre of the cut was rosy. A well-seasoned dish with an attractive presentation.

Traditional Fish Pie filled with prawns, salmon, haddock and leek gave a simple counterpoint to the meal. This is comfort food at its finest: a smooth potato and cheese topping over a rich fish filling that was flavourful, piping hot and typical of authentic brasserie dishes. They don’t have to be made with costly ingredients, it’s a style of cooking, and it’s becoming more popular. Brasseries give diners what they want: good, well-prepared and presented fare that they feel they would want to replicate in their own homes ...and this reviewer would, if only someone would give her the recipe for that aubergine starter.

Rhubarb Macaroon with Strawberry Sorbet is chic. Who would not have noticed the proliferation of bakeries and confectioners selling those decadent and stylishly French Macaroons? This was a symphony of pastel shades and contrasting textures. Light but with richness from those classic cookies.

A little Semi Freddo Vanilla Ice Cream and Coffee Granita was all I could manage but it arrived, substantial and striking, in a sundae glass overflowing with coffee crystals and ice cream. The addition of a cup of espresso finished a delightful and relaxing dinner. A melange of old favourites and new culinary trends in a restaurant that prefers country-style linen to starched tablecloths, and pots of herbs to sprays of roses.

We awoke early. No, we were not bothered by traffic noise (isn’t triple glazing a marvellous invention). We just wanted to open the curtains and gaze across the river to the Palace of Westminster. Red buses and black taxis and a few early risers avoiding the approaching rush-hour together made the scene a moving tapestry of morning London life. OK, so I am a city girl and this city is amazing in the dawn light when it’s the exclusive domain of those who live and work here. We are indeed spoilt.

Breakfast is held in the brasserie and the place was buzzing with American, Japanese and Australian tourists who were to be whisked away to cathedral towns, rolling hills or the coast, as soon as the last crumb of toast was finished. If you want a less frenetic start to your day then wait till after 8.30am, as any civilised visitor would do anyway.

The breakfast buffet reflects the multi-national makeup of the hotel guests. Plenty of fruit and cereals and yoghurt for those with bodies like temples. Plates of cold meats and cheeses for Scandinavians, all the elements for a monumental Full Monty fry-up, and delicate pastries for the French. A good spread of brekkie dishes to suit every epicurean tradition.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge London is a hotel with much to recommend it. Yes, its location makes it a favourite with overseas guests but that same position makes it sought after by those with business in the financial hub, or those others who need to haunt the corridors of power. It is a popular event venue, and has a spa and all the trappings that make hotels such as this the lodgings of choice for those with discerning taste.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge London
200 Westminster Bridge Road, London SE1 7UT
Telephone: 0844 415 6790
Fax: 0844 415 6791

Hummus Bros – Fun family fare

An invitation to review Hummus Bros! Aren’t they a tailoring company? Posh morning coats for hire, wedding togs? Perhaps dinner jackets – it’s a restaurant review site, after all. No, dear sartorially inclined reader, Hummus Bros are a couple of lads (although not actually brothers) who have opened three rather unique casual restaurants with take-away counters.



Well, there are lots of casual eateries strewn across the length and breadth of London, so what makes Hummus Bros so noteworthy? It’s the food on offer. No sign of a cool-cabinet stuffed with under-stuffed iffy sarnies. No aroma of greasy burgery bits in buns, and the food here is a world away from dubious cheap ethnic lunches.

So what do Hummus Bros sell? Hummus! We have all bought little tubs of this from our local supermarkets where it’s presented as a delicate spread, an addition to a summer buffet table rather than any sort of main event. We just don’t quite know what to do with it but we buy it because it makes us look cosmopolitan.

This chickpea confection has not, until now, been part of the UK culinary tradition. Only a few of us have fond memories of the hummus our grandmothers used to make. But we would have said the same of Indian food a few years ago.

Hummus Bros presents the eponymous dish as a real meal and although that’s new to us here, it is very much a part of the Middle Eastern fashion of eating. It’s a food that ticks all the practical and epicurean boxes for me. It’s typical comfort food with a creamy texture and mild flavour. It’s natural and healthy and it’s easy to eat – in fact so easy that you don’t even need cutlery, although those nice brothers do provide ecologically sound wooden forks for the overly genteel.

Hummus is converted from a snack into a meal by the addition of flavourful toppings. There are selections of standards that are advertised on the menu and there are weekly specials to keep the regulars engaged. For those who want to perk up the paste there are bottles of garlic and lemon to sprinkle. Mixed vegetable salad, tabouleh (bulgar wheat with finely chopped red peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, coriander, parsley and mint – authentic with lots of herbs), Greek salad, smoky barbecued aubergine, falafel salad are all offered as side dishes.

There are two sizes available: a small bowl of topped hummus constitutes a light lunch, and a regular portion is a dinner for the seriously peckish. The mushroom topping with caramelised onions is a sweet vegetarian option for those who want a hearty and flavourful meal. All bowls of hummus have brown fluffy pitta bread included: delicious, and acting as your edible scoop.

Committed carnivores will note that Hummus Bros is not a preachy, worthy, tie-dye, sandal- toting kinda place. The food isn’t about feeling noble it’s about feeling full, so chunky beef – a seasonal, slow cooked stew of tender meat – is one of the suggested toppings, and it’s truly melting. There is also chicken and that, along with guacamole, is the most popular of garnishes.

I am a collector of cookbooks so a 5,000-year old recipe was bound to grab my attention.  Fava beans with slow-cooked free-range egg is a popular breakfast dish in Egypt. I had heard about it but here was my chance to try it. Anything that’s been on the menu for that long has evidently got something going for it. After one bowl I am hooked. It’s a must-try signature dish of smooth hummus and rich, soft beans with slices of tinted eggs, the addition of which turns a sustaining meal into a feast. I agree it might not sound a stunner, but it will likely turn you away from those golden arches.

Talking of fast food outlets... nothing wrong with them, the problem rests with us, the buying public. If we eat those burgers in moderation then we have nothing to fear. They provide a meal on the trot and we have all enjoyed them from time to time when those hunger pangs kick in and a Mcwendyking is all that’s handy. But we want to encourage our kids to adopt good eating habits, healthy foods that they will be keen to eat. Hummus Bros could take the place of burger bars and huts of pizza. Hummus is kid friendly. The texture is appealing to even the fussiest of toddlers. The standard dish of hummus with a helping of chickpeas is fun to eat, with no strong seasonings. Tiny fingers will grab the peas and little hands will dip the pitta. No crusts to chew so that’s yet another hurdle out of the way. This food isn’t dumbed down for children but you will find that they will love to eat just the same dishes as mum and dad; and mum and dad will love that the kids are eating! Good for most folks with allergies, as well.

Hummus Bros is keen to stress its eco-friendly philosophy but you won’t become a regular here for that reason. You’ll return for the food.

Hummus Bros
88 Wardour Street, Soho, London W1F 0TJ
Phone: 020 7734 1311

Victoria House, 37-63 Southampton Row, London WC1B 4DA
Phone: 020 7404 7079

128 Cheapside, London EC2V 6BT
Phone: 020 7726 8011

Email: info@hbros.co.uk
Visit Hummus Bros here

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand for breakfast

Carluccio's Richmond for Dinner

I have had a coffee at Carluccio’s a time or two. Its branches are all bright with a contemporary Mediterranean air. Cool blue and turquoise, banquettes and vinyl tables. Yes, Carluccio’s is a great spot for an espresso.

Every catering company or supermarket has its range of Christmas fare, and it was at their recent presentation that I was introduced to the non-coffee goods that will be available from Carluccio’s for the festive season. One felt wafted to a very classy dinner party in Tuscany or Naples or Rome. Perhaps, in reality, not exactly a dinner party but rather more a picnic with posh props. One had the chance to admire the exquisite packaging as well as graze on the contents and sample the specialities.

Well, logic runs that if the deli side of the Carluccio’s empire has such high standards then perhaps the restaurants might also reflect some of that epicurean polish, so we were bound to investigate. Carluccio’s Richmond was our target and it couldn’t be a more convenient location, just across from the Station.

Carluccio’s has felt the rage of riots in Ealing, and a slight timidity on behalf of the diners in other London locations. Tales of restaurants being raided by looters has often kept people at home and that is indeed a shame. We should surely be supporting businesses on our high streets. Small independent restaurants in particular, but even chains like Carluccio’s, employ ordinary working folk.

The manager explained that there had been a slight drop in numbers due to the threat of thuggish behaviour, although Richmond escaped almost unscathed. Despite this assertion we found the restaurant almost full of those who seemed to be regulars. This is a town with a good number of convincing eateries, so these locals were evidently in the know.

We arrived around 7 on a warm and sticky evening and there were a few families with youngsters finishing their meals. Several couples were taking advantage of the outside seating area, but we chose a table by the window in order to people-watch and feel thoroughly Italian.

e are lots of starters and small dishes to get one into a Latin mood: Parmesan chunks served with aged balsamic vinegar to dip;  Focaccia; Pasta Fritta – pasta "crisps" with herbs and sea salt; olives; Bruschetta - fresh ripe tomatoes with oregano, basil leaves, roasted peppers and extra virgin olive oil on garlicky Italian bread; Pâté Di Fegatini Di Pollo – smooth chicken liver pâté, toasted Tuscan bread and cornichons. We wanted a little nibble of an overview so ordered Antipasto Massimo to share – Focaccia, Napoli and Milano salami, roast ham, stuffed chicken, green bean salad, caponata, roast vegetables, and olives. This is a visual stunner and it serves as a tasting platter for the deli goods on offer from the shelves by the door. The best kind of advertising, if you ask me.

No surprise that Carluccio’s has a raft of pasta dishes, and Linguine Ai Frutti Di Mare – linguine pasta with squid, mussels, clams and prawns with garlic, herbs and chilli – will be my main dish on my return. But I was craving a simple and unfussy main meal and chose Milanese Di Pollo – flattened chicken breast, breadcrumbed and fried, served with a garnish of green salad. This was far more substantial than the versions I have encountered in other Italian restaurants. A whole chicken breast, which was thick and moist. It had been flattened till it was half the size of a dinner plate, so come with an appetite if you want to stand any chance of managing this acreage of poultry. Nothing mucked about with here, it’s just exactly what it says on the menu. Delicious and natural with well-dressed leaves.

My guest ordered Saltimbocca – pork escalope wrapped in Parma ham, pan-fried with sage and white wine, with sautéed potatoes. This is a traditional dish and straightforwardly full-flavoured, with a light sauce. The included potatoes had not been tinkered with and the courgettes my peckish companion requested were hardly necessary, although they added a buttery note of vibrant green hue. Nothing added to mask fresh flavours.

I can seldom manage a whole dessert, but my many reviewing guests do me proud by bringing their hollow legs and allowing me to enjoy just a corner of their afters. This evening was no exception, with the man across the table savouring the very prospect of a sweet treat. Meringa Con Panna Al Frutto Della Passione – raspberry meringue with a passionfruit cream and fresh raspberries – was his pud. Think Eton Mess and you will have the picture. The ratio of cream to crisp meringue made this a comforting dessert rather than it being teeth-achingly sweet when too much meringue is used.

We finished with espresso and Biscotti - a plate of artisan biscuits from Italy, some of which reminded me of those I had enjoyed at the Christmas presentation. Cantucci from Tuscany, Masserini from Piemonte and Carluccio's hazelnut shortbread. It’s amazing how one can find just that little space than needs to be filled!

Antonio Carluccio is a true ambassador of Italian food. The chain bears his name but your admiration for the man isn’t the reason you will return. It’s solid and sensible food that garners a loyal following.

Opening Times

Monday to Friday: 8am - 11pm
Saturday: 9am - 11pm
Sunday: 9am - 10.30pm

Carluccio’s Richmond
31-35 Kew Road, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 2NQ
Phone: 020 8940 5037
Fax: 020 8332 1307
Visit Carluccio’s here

The Dorchester – for breakfast

It’s one of London’s most iconic hotels. Ask any local or tourist to name a couple of the most famous hotels in London and the Dorchester is liable to be one of those mentioned. It’s been around for a while, since 1931, so it deserves the accolade of Classic with all the positive connotations that word affords.

During the Second World War, the strength of the Dorchester’s concrete construction gave the hotel the reputation of being one the safest buildings in town. Winston Churchill stayed in the hotel, and General Dwight D. Eisenhower took a suite on the first floor, now the Eisenhower Suite.

The hotel closed for a couple of years in the 1980s. Some areas were showing their age and it needed an injection of technology and amenity. The Dorchester has, however, maintained some public areas that offer that opulence of another age, sporting characteristics that we all crave but which are so often lost with unsympathetic refits.

Its location has, no doubt, helped with its prestigious reputation. It’s found on Park Lane in Mayfair, overlooking Hyde Park. Not a bad address, but every hotelier knows that guests will not return if the interior doesn’t match the location, and if service and customer care fall short. There is plenty of competition out there but The Dorchester has maintained its creditable position.

The imposing facade is softened by thoughtful planting, presenting the guest with a veritable cascade of flower and foliage, but the real Dorchester treasures are found the other side of the revolving doors with polished brass trim. It’s the striking Promenade which, for me at least, is the epitome of timeless charm.

The Promenade is a comfy space, a vision of old gold and architectural features that transport one back to a genteel era when potted palms were the norm and one had plenty of staff to polish the silver, and the butler wore a morning suit.

OK, so not many of us have maids and footmen but we can borrow a little of the Dorchester’s luxury every time we visit. It’s a big and sumptuous hotel but it’s not intimidating. Every guest is made to feel at home – like they belong and most importantly, like they are special.

It was an early morning treat for us – breakfast at a cosy side table in the Promenade. Crisp linen, gleaming cutlery as one would expect, and a stand that would soon be garnished with a plate of croissants, pains au chocolat, Danish pastries and muffins. All of these are made at the Dorchester so you’ll know they are fresh. Small dainties with amber shine. Almost too good to eat... almost.

The Dorchester Bacon Buttie was reassuring and intriguing. It would seem an oxymoron: one of the smartest hotels in London offering butties. Well, yes indeed and it was, just as one would hope, a memorable creation with sweet cured bacon, belly pork and a fried egg served on focaccia. In truth this was such a tower of food that the top segment of bread was presented leaning on the side of the sandwich. This wasn’t a light breakfast option but it was somewhat more interesting than the traditional British breakfast which, although a favourite, can be had almost everywhere.

The belly pork was a delicious departure from a regular breakfast sandwich.  It was sweet, flavourful and with the correct and comforting ratio of meat to creamy fat. That fat is key to the success of the dish. The condiments were, however, traditional: tomato ketchup and brown sauce. Diners will have a strongly-held preference for one or the other and that’s as it should be, but anyway I think there is a law against smearing both; if there isn’t there should be.

The Dorchester does have a breakfast menu of healthy Bircher muesli, cereals or fruit salad for those who treat their bodies like temples – although I did notice a miniature jar of very adult chocolate spread to help down the healthy five-seeded wholemeal bread. Wholemeal toast and carrot and courgette muffins might well be my choice on a future visit.

Tea is an essential part of any English breakfast and we enjoyed a pot or two of the speciality teas from Harney and Sons, including The Dorchester Blend, a light and refreshing brew that was a delicate foil for the richness of both bacon and pork, and the sticky moreishness of those little pastries.

The Dorchester will not disappoint. It’s been the regular home-from-home for many a celebrity and fatigued businessman, and increasingly for those of us who just periodically like to indulge in the finer things in life. It’s not the cheapest of hotels but it remains the spot that offers predictable quality and a particular ambiance that is hard to replicate – the place for an accessible and memorable treat at any time of the day.

The Dorchester
Park Lane, London W1K 1QA

Phone: 020 7629 8888
Reservations: 020 7317 6500
Fax: 020 7629 8080
E-mail: info.thedorchester@dorchestercollection.com
E-mail: reservations.uk@dorchestercollection.com

Visit the Dorchester here

Penny Black for Dinner

The Fulham Road isn’t my usual hunting ground, although it’s well served by public transport and easily accessible, but after my recent dining experience I may well become a habitué of that neighbourhood. Penny Black sits at number 212 as a tastefully understated icon of real British Food, and is unique in several regards.
The name comes from the stamp, or more accurately some prints of that philatelic classic. It wasn’t a long-lived symbol of Victorian communication but it was a trail-blazer, and the eponymous restaurant might well become just that for the culinary scene in this area. Tony Ho and his two partners have 3 life-times worth of experience in opening restaurants, so longevity can reasonably be assured.

The facade is in fact quite muted: a vision of charcoal grey and simple frosted windows. Those windows do hide the interior somewhat, but I rather favour the anonymity and those windows could become a trade-mark for future restaurants – well, I can imagine that anything this good is bound to become a small and classy chain. 

There were a couple of tables outside and those were already occupied by diners enjoying a glass of British fizz chosen from the quite remarkable wine list, in fact a chunky catalogue offering many noteworthy wines, almost all by the glass. Tony Ho has a passion for wine, and that’s proving to be an asset now that he has his own establishment.

One enters to find that mysterious interior is in fact contemporary and welcoming. A small lounge area has become popular for pre-meal drinks, and for leisurely coffees after what is sure to be a copious and full-on feed. Hospitality is generous here and one is bound to linger. Tony explained that they wanted to create a home-from-home for their guests – the foodie equivalent of the old-fashioned pub for the drinking fraternity. A place to bring the family for Sunday lunch (soon to be reviewed here).

The décor is tasteful and unfussy with aubergine and white walls which sport not only those Penny Blacks but other pop-art prints and a rather rude Salvador Dali. (Sit your granny under that and she will never notice, although she will wonder why everyone is smiling at her.) Crisp white linen reinforces the impression that this is probably going to be a fine dining restaurant – traditional food but a high-end experience.

I would describe the menu as British, comforting, vibrant and inspiring.  It’s not retro but it is definitely traditional. The ingredients are fresh and seasonal, and showcase the best from these shores and inland as well. Favourite and simple dishes, and some innovations.

It was a hot evening so a salad was on the cards for this sticky reviewer. Ham, goat’s cheese and peaches garnished with mixed leaves was a substantial plateful. The ham was hand carved, moist and delicious, the cheese tangy and the peaches ripe, sweet and summery.  A flavourful introduction to the high standards of both presentation and style.

My guest chose Potted Devon shrimps, watercress, and wholemeal toast. The shrimps had the real taste of the sea. The recipient of this bounty was born and bred on the coast and he proclaimed this seafood dish to be as good as his childhood memories of Sunday teatime. A must-try whenever it’s on the menu.

Toad in the Hole was my main course. This isn’t a dish with which to be cheffy. Real toads and a batter made with crushed Mongolian

Spice Market for Dinner

Jean-Georges Vongerichten is considered by many to be one of the foremost movers and shakers in the culinary arena these days ...on both sides of the pond. He heads the celebrated French restaurant Jean-Georges, overlooking Central Park in New York, and Spice Market in the smart Meatpacking District. You don’t need a transatlantic hop to enjoy Spice Market food – it’s here now in the heart of London.

The restaurant graces a corner of a plot housing the W Hotel, the latest in Soho. Its entrance is contemporary and anonymous and suggests nothing of the ambiance behind the glass.

Spice Market flows over two floors and is just as contemporary as the exterior, but rich and warm with hints of exotica. The unique design allows for intimate dinners but equally offers convivial space for larger groups. There is a private dining room, The Globe Room, which can accommodate up to 40 guests for dinner or lunch or 60 for drinks and hors d’oeuvres. There are sliding screens to offer privacy but those are more often left open so that the company can take advantage of the general buzz.

The name Spice Market is said to come from the walls of jars and bottles which give the effect of an Asian food store. These walls offer colour and vibrancy in a way that no watercolour could do. The open kitchens add movement and excitement. Perhaps Spice Market will remind travellers of the night markets of South East Asia – all their booths with chans clattering on metal and tantalising perfumes wafting on the evening air.

Spice Market for breakfast

When home alone I confess to being a half-hearted breakfast eater. It’s not that I am not craving a tasty start to my day but let’s be honest, who wants to make a meal when the old eyes are near closing and the bus will arrive in ten minutes. Yes, it’s a slice of toast, and yoghurt if I feel noble. But I always do fancy that elusive big breakfast.

So the truth is out. I only make a cooked breakfast at weekends or when we have friends staying over. A traditional English fried breakfast is popular for very good reasons: it’s hearty, comforting and delicious. It has endured as a favourite with both tourists, who are mostly under the misapprehension that we eat this every morning, and us locals who wish that we could.

But there are other cooked breakfasts that are just as delicious and make a flavoursome change. Spice Market offers a striking menu for lunch and dinner, and its breakfast bill of fare is just as imaginative and eclectic. Most of the morning guests are from the adjoining W Hotel and they come from every corner of the globe and enjoy the wide range of items on offer ...after the novelty of the great British fry-up has worn off.

Eggs of your Choice, Potato Rosti, Egg White Omelette with Herbs, Eggs Benedict, Scottish Smoked Salmon, Toasted Brioche, French Toast with Sautéed Apples, Pinhead Porridge with Raisins and Brown Sugar are some of the cooked dishes, but there is also a buffet that caters to those who can only manage a sweet pastry. Northern Europeans can graze on cheese, cold meats, smoked fish, and fruit.

All very nice and I would have been delighted to indulge along with our Continental cousins, but there were other breakfast treats that are unique to Spice Market. Cornish Crab and Egg Scramble, Smoked Paprika and Puffed Rice sounded intriguing and savoury. I couldn’t quite imagine what this was going to be. Perhaps some rubbery concoction served over a bowl of that famous cereal that snaps, crackles and pops? Surely that could not be right.

The reality was a delicate scramble laced with white crab meat.

Thai Square - Richmond

Richmond is that leafy and rather posh terminus of the District Line. It’s got swanky river frontage, historic buildings and The Green skirted by homes of the rich and famous. A good location for some decent restaurants catering for the discerning high-end palate.

The latest addition to the Thai Square group has arrived on the Kew Road, next to the imposing Carluccio's and just a few yards from Richmond Station. It’s the former Duke of York pub but any evidence of that incarnation has been replaced by a modern façade and a light and bright interior.

It’s evident that it’s a Thai restaurant, but of the confident and contemporary variety. A few tasteful artefacts give a gentle nod towards graceful exotica, and the skylights at the rear of the restaurant will allow diners to bask in the timid British evening sunlight.

We settled ourselves just under the aforementioned roof window on a warm summer evening. The cocktail list

Maison Touareg for lunch

The Empress of Sichuan – London Chinatown

Lunch on British Pullman carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

Yes, I have a lovely life: a restaurant reviewer, and able to take my pick of the very best that the World has to offer. I am, however, seldom driven to displays of overt enthusiasm for my latest destinations. They are all good and some exceptional, but the signature lunch trip ‘Golden Age of Travel’ aboard the British Pullman carriages has had me ticking off the days on my iPhone calendar ...as well as casually mentioning the event to anyone who would listen.

The original company was founded in 1982 by James Sherwood, an American with impeccable taste and vision. He had acquired two of the original carriages at auction in 1977, when the celebrated Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits (founded in 1872 in Belgium) withdrew from the Orient Express service. James spent a total of $16 million buying 35 sleeper, restaurant and Pullman carriages, and on 25 May 1982 the first London-Venice service was inaugurated.

The lunch tour through Kent mainly features former Brighton Belle Pullman coaches. Usually operating from a classy corner of Victoria Station in London, specials run throughout the south of England to historic sites, and on this day to Whitstable.

Your initial view of the train heightens the sense of anticipation. In truth you notice your fellow passengers before you get much of a peek at the train itself, dressed in their finest and already entering into the spirit of the affair. Many a snap would be taken with loved ones and train staff dressed in magnificent crisp white uniforms. One might even spot a flirting flapper or a fascinating thirties ‘Falstaff’ quaffing fizz, before one boards the train.

And what a train. These are the British Pullman carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express gleaming in umber and cream livery, with every carriage individually displaying its hand-painted name and crest. One is transported back in time to a gentler age when one could travel, if one wasn’t a victim of the between-wars depression, in luxury. Your steward will show you to your reserved seat in one of eleven carriages, each one a homage to craftsmanship.

Every carriage is different, with its own character, upholstery and fittings (your derriere will grace real furniture), and the changes in seating configuration add to the interest as one wanders the length of the train. Plush upholstery is surrounded by marquetry, reflecting amber light from brass sconces and shaded lamps. I would imagine that the ambiance would be truly romantic at dinner on dark winter evenings, when those muted lights would come into their own. Everything has been painstakingly restored to its original glory.

Passengers are actively encouraged to visit all parts of the train to take full advantage of the experience. One is seated in either ‘coupés’ - small compartments seating up to four people - or in the open car, mostly at intimate tables for two, although there are a limited number of single tables and of tables for three.

The service is calming and unrushed. We departed at 11.45, sipped champagne and nibbled canapés as we joggled sedately out of Victoria. Settled back into our cosy seats we admired the etched glasses and cutlery, a table setting the like of which one seldom finds these days. Heavy silver-ware gave an air of opulence. Not stuffy, self-aware or posing, this was old-fashioned but accessible charm.

I am a woman of ‘a certain age’ and had expected that all passengers would be my vintage or older. There were whole carriages, however, that were filled with those in their late twenties and thirties. These trips seem to appeal to all adults with an appreciation of the finer things in life. A

Black and Blue

It’s been a while since I had a steak. My dining companions will very often choose a hunk of meat, where I’ll go for a rather exotic or cheffy entrée. But I do periodically crave a good steak. It’s almost a comfort food. High-end admittedly but comforting nevertheless.

All steaks and indeed steakhouses are not created equal. There are those fun establishments which boast the biggest this or the thickest that, and those aforementioned chunks of meat garnished with gloopy and processed sauces laced with chilli, vinegar or even coffee. It takes a confident chain to offer a simple meal that showcases the main ingredient rather than themed decor and plates groaning under the weight of half-cows.

Yes, Black and Blue is a small chain of steak restaurants but let’s not be sniffy about that. The proof of the steak is in the eating and you will hear no complaints from this reviewer. Nick Hill and Alan Bacon decided there was a >void in the restaurant market for a chain of quality steak houses, smart but casual. Steaks cooked to order and served with fries, salad and a choice of sauces is the Black and Blue mainstay, although they do have other meats and seafood as well as composed salads on their menu. But it’s the steak that will ensure return visits.

We visited the King’s Road restaurant. It’s just changed its name from Picasso: the locals were a little confused when the tea was replaced by T-bone, but now, even after just a few weeks, the restaurant has garnered a loyal following. The booth across the aisle from us was the cosy nook for the most celebrated BBC war correspondent. Nice to know the world is at peace. Our own booth was bathed in dappled light from the huge and contemporary glass roof. The gentle pounding of heavy rain on that window reminded us that it was indeed summer.

Black and Blue is light and airy with walls displaying picassoesque canvases. Marble tables laid with linen serviettes gave that sense of polished yet comfy European charm. Our fellow diners included graceful and aristocratic older ladies, American tourists who seemed relieved to find to unfussy red meat, a small family with a 2 year old who charmed both us and the staff. A restaurant for a wide spectrum of food lovers.

Crayfish and Guacamole Salad with Crème Fraîche was my light starter. Plenty of seafood and an attractive presentation. Something of an innovation, and more interesting than the retro prawn cocktail that has enjoyed something of a revival of late.

Tortilla Chips with Warm Artichoke & Spinach Dip was my companion’s choice. A substantial drift of chips was impressive but the dip itself was not a thing of beauty, though that’s true of many a delicious dip. I think that perhaps the word ‘cheese’ could be added to the description as it’s evidently a key ingredient.

I ordered a medium rare Sirloin. It’s the smaller of the cuts on offer but substantial. The steak was moist and glossy with a garnish of fries and rocket. A huge bowl of house salad also arrived. Nick and Alan have a favourite restaurant in Courchevel and they have incorporated that establishment’s signature salad of lettuce, walnuts and grated Emmental cheese, but there is a secret dressing.

Ribeye was my guest’s choice. And he was equally as pleased with his order as I was with mine. I think the word to describe both meals is “right”. Simple steak dinners but well presented and care taken with the meat. It’s sourced from 27 farms in Yorkshire and Lancashire. The meat is from cattle that are a cross between Aberdeen Angus, Limousin and Charolais. Black and Blue's steaks are stored in climate-controlled facilities, and kept in the Dry Aging Room for 28-35 days.

New York Cheesecake was our shared dessert along with a glass of chilled Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, La Playa, Chile. Once again an uncomplicated course but correct and appropriate, and just as you would hope for in this genre of restaurant. I look forward to trying a classic burger at another one of the Black and Blue venues in the near future. I am expecting a high standard.


Opening times:
12:00 - 23:00 Sunday - Thursday
12:00 - 23:30 Friday & Saturday

Black and Blue
127 King's Road,
Chelsea,
London, SW3 4PW
Phone: 020 7351 1661
Visit Black and Blue here

Mango Tree for Sunday Lunch

Atlantico at The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel

The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel is a 4-star hotel in one of London’s most iconic of locations. It’s conveniently placed just a few yards from the River Thames with views over Battersea Park. This is an up-and-coming neighbourhood with stylish apartment blocks giving an air of affluent big-city life. The hotel offers easy access to key bus and train routes and is within walking distance, if the weather is good and you need the exercise, of Sloane Square and Victoria Station.

A cold Sunday afternoon found us at the reception of The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel. It offered a warm welcome, with a striking Artur Bual mural behind the desk and more large canvasses by the same Portuguese artist in the lounge area. This is after all a Portuguese-run hotel and there are subtle nuances scattered throughout its accessible opulence. It’s a new hotel so it was as expected scuffless and pristine, but nevertheless the first impression is of polished comfort.

I never tire of hotel stays but not all hotels are created equal. Even some five-star hotels lack lustre and impact so I am always a bit wary of four-star lodgings. No need to worry about resting your weary head at Pestana. Our room was one that I would love to replicate in our own home. That isn’t my usual sentiment; it’s more often an appreciation of the grandeur of the drapes, gratitude for the complementary fluffy slippers, and admiration for the soon-to-be-stolen bathroom toiletries.

Well, Pestana has very acceptable bath products. OK, so I didn’t find any slippers and I can’t remember the curtains, but the room had contemporary and high-end impact writ large. Lamps and shades to covet, a bed-head of gargantuan proportions and a white chaise-longue that would not look out of place as an extra in a James Bond flick. The window onto the bathroom had a much-appreciated blind and those facilities were well appointed. A full bath as well as a walk-in shower tempted me to linger in steamy contentment.

This hotel ticks all the boxes for comfort but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. I shared the bathroom with a tiara-toting bulldog. Not a real one but she (I guess it was a girl bulldog) was bidding visitors a very British "Hiya". The red Routemaster bus in the bedroom prompted another wry smile from these two reviewers who are also the authors of a book about the aforementioned much-loved mode of London transport.

The ground-floor Atlantico restaurant beckoned for our evening meal. The manager, Stefano, isn’t exactly Portuguese but neither is the menu. It’s International cuisine and that phrase will send shudders through most food lovers. It revives memories of steak and chips, dry roast chicken and dubious egg mayo salad. Yes, Atlantico has an international menu but it’s based on fresh seasonal produce and imagination, and there are indeed a couple of Portuguese specialities.

The resident expert mixologist, Alex, concocted his famous Piri Piri spiced cocktail which I can recommend for those who enjoy robust flavours. It’s not searingly hot but rather aromatic and pleasantly warming. An unwinding tipple while we meandered through the bill of fare.

There is a Tapas table offering platters of cheeses and meats and salads. Roast dinners are also on offer, but we chose from the à la carte dishes. Carpaccio of octopus with Mache salad, breakfast radish and aged parmesan was my light starter. The seafood was delicate and the radish added a delightful peppery note. Cheese isn’t usual with octopus but it acted as a good and slightly tangy counterpoint to the other flavours.

Ham hock, Chorizo terrine, Saffron aioli and toasted walnut bread was my guest’s first dish. The meat was chunky and well-seasoned. The bread was full of the eponymous nuts and gave texture as well as flavour to the terrine.

Confit Bacalhau with crushed ratte potatoes, mussels and spicy salsa took the fancy of my companion and he was impressed. Bacalhau is salt cod and is usually found as thin and unappetising boards in trendy fishmongers. The Atlantico version is chunky and tender, and much more resembles its fresh sibling. It has a distinct flavour rather than being simply salty.

Franguinho Piri Piri is spatchcock Poussin in piri piri sauce served with Parmentier potatoes and wilted baby spinach, and is the menu’s nod to Portugal. The chicken was moist with a spice glaze that was vibrant with piri piri spice mirroring that I had already enjoyed in Alex’s cocktail. A simple dish but well worth ordering. The cubes of potatoes were crunchy around their chiselled edges but were soft and fluffy inside. My dessert was also Portuguese: Arroz Doce - vanilla rice pudding. Almost every culinary tradition seems to offer a rice pudding in some guise or other. The version at Atlantico was rice in its most creamy and comforting form. Old-fashioned and moreish.

We enjoyed a good night’s sleep in our classy room with views across the park. Revived, we were ready for breakfast. I was rather disappointed to find only a selection of pastries on show. Toast arrived and so did the juice and then we realised that the “real” brekkie goodies were in the adjoining wing of the restaurant. There were plates of fruit and bowls of yoghurt for those who treat their bodies as temples. Plenty of cold meats, cheese and a quiche for those like me who crave some savouries, and then there was the full-Monty station for those who have hollow legs that were not filled by the previous night’s substantial spread.

With 216 rooms, spa and Lifestyle centre, six meeting rooms to cater for events from 10 to 500 delegates, restaurant, bar and coffee shop and secure underground parking, Pestana is the hotel that suits every need. We had a marvellous city break but those delegates bringing their families to London will take advantage of its in-hotel facilities as well as its proximity to the centre of town. It might be a hotel that is technically only a four-star, but I would say it’s at the top end of that band.

London hotel review: The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel
354 Queenstown Road, London SW8 4AE

Sat nav ref: SW8 4PP
Tel.: +44 (0) 20 7062 8000
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7978 2430
E-mail: res.uk@pestana.com
Visit Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel here

Tempo Mayfair

There has been an Italian restaurant on this site in Curzon Street since the 1930s. Tempo is its latest reincarnation and it stands a good chance of staying just there for another 70 years. Even this early in its predicted long history, it ticks all the boxes, at least for me and the crowd enjoying a Monday lunch on adjoining tables.

Yes, an ordinary Monday lunchtime and the small restaurant was buzzing. Two large parties as well as various couples and colleagues who were even this short time since the restaurant opening, have evidently become regulars. Tempo looks like a very chic European restaurant but it sounds like an Italian restaurant. Formal décor is tempered by the exuberance of the guests who enjoy not only the taste but the spirit of Italian cuisine. Tempo has a well-heeled clientele as one would expect but they are a bunch who don’t stand on ceremony. They visit to enjoy the best of food and good company.

It’s about sharing the food and the experience. Nothing stuffy about Tempo. It’s a confident establishment that seems to perfectly reflect the conviviality of its owner Henry Togna. A suave man who balances front of house efficiency with great personal charm. A well-liked and cultured entrepreneur who has the blood of the hospitality industry causing through his veins. His grandparents owned hotels as did his father. He is indeed the former owner of the iconic townhouse hotel 22 Jermyn Street which had been in his family since 1915.

Tempo might be bijou but it’s a gem of a sophisticated space. Taupe walls are contrasted by turquoise - upholstered chairs. Glass-topped marble-effect tables are buffed to a reflective shine by ever-vigilant staff. It’s the attention to detail that will always elevate Tempo from the herd. That effort to get things just right extends to the kitchen which is the domain of Chef Yoshi Yamada. No, dear reader, that isn’t a very Italian name but he is indeed an award winning Italian chef. He receives the Italian Culinary Master Chef Award from the prestigious Academia Barilla. This new award has been created to recognise the skilled chefs living abroad who have succeeded in creating exceptional and authentic Italian cuisine.

Chef Yamada spent four years cooking at top restaurants in Sorrento (the two-Michelin-starred Don Alfonso), Sardinia and Florence. He continued with Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Tokyo before being selected to run the kitchens at Tempo. This isn’t a fusion restaurant but the presentation shows a delicacy that might be attributed to Yoshis Japanese ancestry. The menu reflects regard for seasonality, freshness and quality. It changes frequently although there are those dishes that must remain due to popular and vociferous demand.

We crunched crostini perfumed with fennel seeds as we perused the menu. My guest chose one of the already celebrated Carpaccio dishes, Scottish beef shaved into wafer thin slices of bright red hue punctuated with hazelnuts for crunch. Parmesan shavings gave an agreeable salty tang. A dish that relies on both freshness and quality of the ingredients.

Grilled sardines were my choice and they constituted a considerable plateful. 4 perfectly grilled and marked fishes with a drizzle of gremolata sauce were juicy and substantial. A simple dish that is seldom done perfectly... but Tempo presented the best cooked seafood I have had in a while.

My companion was tempted by the Polletto - grilled pausing on mixed salad leaves with a garnish of barley. A finger bowl arrived with the order giving the cue that tucking in and chewing the bones would be encouraged. The chicken as pronounced too good to waste any so that fingerbowl was put to good use.

Tempo is undoubtedly an Italian restaurant so pasta in some guise or other was always on the cards for this diner. Find squid ink Linguine dresses with Cornish crab, chilli, lime proved to be both a visual and gastronomic triumph. Black pasta always has impact but flecks of red chilli add to the drama. This isn’t an overly spicy dish but that chilli does give a warming aromatic edge to the sweetness of the crab.

Save space for dessert. Henry recommended the Lemon tart which has already become a signature dish. The citrus filling was light and tangy. A well balanced slice of sharp and tangy lemon on a still-crisp sweet pastry base and bruleed crust.

Tempo is a restaurant to visit often and in which to linger. Its menu is varied and good value for money. It will garner many loyal followers over the years and I’ll add myself to the list. I’ll return shortly to visit the bar which I am sure will become a cosy destination for a cocktail or glass of proseco.

Monday to Friday - Lunch – noon to 3pm / Dinner – 6pm to 11pm
Saturday - Dinner - 6pm to 11pm

Drinks and all-day light food in the bar from 11am until 11pm

London restaurant review: Tempo Italian restaurant - Mayfair
54 Curzon Street, London W1J 8PG
Phone: 020 7629 2742
info@tempomayfair.co.uk
Visit Tempo here

Zenna Bar

Dean Street is a famed Soho thoroughfare. It runs between the retail hub of Oxford Street to the north and Shaftesbury Avenue to the south.

The street has a colourful history. Mozart gave a recital here in his youth. The French House was the unofficial headquarters of Charles de Gaulle and the French Resistance during World War II. Karl Marx lived here. Admiral Nelson stayed in Dean Street the day before setting off for the Battle of Trafalgar. The New Romanticism fashion movement began at the nightclub Billy's in the late 1970s, and the celebrated Groucho Club, a private club for media types, calls this neck of the woods home.

OK, so you might not be celebrated enough (yet) to be invited to become a Groucho member, but Zenna Bar has joined the list of worthy venues in buzzy Soho, and there will always be a space for you there. This new bar is in the basement of the Red Fort Indian restaurant. That well-established eatery was closed for a while after extensive damage caused by a fire next door. It’s now regained its popularity, and the restaurant was full on the evening we visited, and it was only a Tuesday.

Downstairs, Zenna is cool, crisp and contemporary. A huge water and flower-filled uruli welcomes the visitor. The bar has, though, avoided the temptation of festooning its walls with garish Indian handicrafts. Yes, the walls are dressed, but with muted and tasteful black-and-white photographs of iconic Sub-continental architecture and the like. The formal seating area boasts silk-upholstered chairs but it will likely be the cellaresque caverns that

Bavarian Beerhouse - Tower Hill

s and gilded embellishments still have that wow factor. The building must have filled the local population with awe when first erected back in the early 1080s. William the Conqueror began to build a massive tower at the centre of his London home, and down the centuries successive kings have added to the complex.

So you have spent a day of leisure by the Thames. You have had a guided tour with a Yeoman. (Not to be missed: each of these gentlemen has had years of service in the army and has rafts of stories to tell.) You now need some food. A proper meal. Something hearty, reasonable price, not too exotic as Martha gets hiccoughs if she eats spice, and Abner likes a slice of meat that he can recognise.

Bavarian Beerhouse at Tower Hill (there is another branch at Old Street) opened in May 2010. It’s just 50 metres from Tower Hill Underground station and built under the railway bridge just to the right of the station exit. The previous tenants were Pitcher and Piano but it seems it was time for a change. It’s rumoured that the Bavarian Beerhouse tripled their predecessor’s revenue within the first month.

The Old Street venue was very much a party place but Tower Hill has loftier horizons... at least on the ground floor. This is a cool, contemporary restaurant space with Bavarian accents. There are some of the traditional benches and rustic touches but the ambiance, at least during the day and early evening, is of casual but calm dining.

The basement level boasts several adjoining rooms and has an atmosphere similar to that of the Old Street branch. This is more for the lads’ night out or for blokey gatherings to watch sports and the like. A stag-night favourite, one would imagine. Those long benches again and low ceilings and its own bar. The basement is ideal for private functions.

We, an elderly and sedate couple, were seeking some food rather than a shot-drinking competition. I loved the food at Old Street and it’s just as good at Tower Hill. It’s a shame that German food is taken as something of a joke. These are  real and unfussy dishes, and I am a fan. There are sausages aplenty as one would expect, and pork shanks to satisfy the most robust of rugby players, but I love Jäger Schnitzel - pork escalope topped with a creamy mushroom sauce and served with a mound of thin fries. One needs to come hungry to take advantage of these large portions.

May has a ‘special’: White Asparagus from Germany (Weisser Deutscher Spargel aus Deutschland). It’s an annual festival of this unique vegetable, thicker than the usual green asparagus and with a delicate flavour. There are various dishes showcasing these creamy white and chunky spears: a soup, or simply served with sauce and boiled potatoes, or with Black Forest ham. My companion chose breaded pork escalope topped with white asparagus and Hollandaise sauce, garnished with fried potatoes. A substantial plateful which was pronounced a winner.

Chinese Afternoon Tea at Grand Imperial

We think of afternoon tea as being the quintessentially English event. Well, in fact if we were to be purists we would say that it’s a traditionally Chinese occasion. Tea is, after all, Chinese, although India can lay claim to commercial production for mass export. The British were not even the first Europeans to appreciate tea.

The tea timeline runs something like this:

2737 BC. The second emperor of China, Shen Nung, made the first cup of tea when leaves accidently blew into his cup of hot water.

400 AD. Tea is now called Kuang Ya in the Chinese dictionary. Instructions on how to make a good cuppa are given. During the T'ang Dynasty tea becomes a popular beverage in China and is prized for both its flavour and its medicinal properties.

1589 Europeans first take an interest in tea when a Venetian author suggests that the long lives of the Chinese are due to tea drinking.

1635 Tea becomes trendy at the Dutch court and in 1650 they introduce tea to New Amsterdam, which later becomes New York.

1706 Thomas Twining serves tea at Tom’s Coffee House in London.

1773 The Boston Tea Party marks the end of the American love affair with tea. Colonists disguised as Native Americans board East India Company ships and throw hundreds of chests of tea into the harbour. Had history been different then New Yorkers might now be ordering a cup of delicate Taiwan Oolong Osmanthus instead of a “cup o’ Joe” (I never have discovered who that “Joe” was.)

1840 Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, introduces Afternoon Tea, which eventually becomes the English ritual we know today.

We see that our love of tea has endured for several centuries, but the Chinese have been enjoying its qualities for thousands of years. Ask Mr. Wong, the restaurant manager of Grand Imperial, for advice on which teas might be the best for you. They have a marvellous selection here so take advantage of expert advice and try a couple.

Oriental Afternoon Tea at Grand Imperial is remarkable. It has the formal elements of a real English afternoon tea but the fare on offer is unmistakably Chinese, with a contemporary and chocolatey twist. There are regular cups and saucers and, yes, the traditional three-tier stand, but those plates are piled with delicious morsels that are much more exciting than a curly sandwich of white sliced and a wedge of Victoria sponge.

108 Marylebone Lane

part of the capital which remains mostly the preserve of Londoners. And if you are looking for good local food then you will enjoy 108 Marylebone Lane. Yes, it’s the name of the restaurant as well as the location: a practical solution for those, like me, who have a dubious memory for addresses.

One enters via the bar area and this is a striking space large enough to be comfortable for a group, but there are cosy corners for couples. 108 is attached to the Marylebone Hotel so there were a few guests, on the day we visited, who were taking advantage of the proximity of a good restaurant. Plenty of local regulars as well: those who work in the area have found this oasis of calm, which provides all the joy of a well-stocked bar with the prospect of a decent meal just a couple of yards away.

108 Marylebone Lane has a restaurant that should convince overseas guests that British food is thriving. The menu reflects the changing seasons as well as offering the best of British fish and meat. The waiter will tell you that the pork comes from Ginger Pig (that’s the name of the butcher, not the animal), La Fromagerie – one of London’s celebrated cheese shops – provides the excellent cheeseboard, and the sausages come from Biggles.

My guest and I settled ourselves under the imposing Peter Denmark artwork. The menu isn’t huge but is appropriate for a restaurant with this number of covers, and there was something to appeal to most tastes, and definitely to ours. The bill of fare changes frequently.

The Warm Goat’s Cheese Salad was my choice and it was a substantial plate of leaves topped with rounds of good quality cheese. Some goat’s cheese can be over-pungent with rather too much of the flavour of, well, goat. This example was delicate but with distinct flavour. My guest chose the Red Pepper Tart which she proclaimed light, fresh and delicious.

The Executive Chef, Norman Farquharson, has taken trouble to source the best meat so I needed to try the slow-cooked lamb. This was a belly cut with just the right ratio of meat to fat to gelatinous skin. The lamb was meltingly tender and the skin lacquered and enticing. This dish tasted as good as it looked. Well seasoned, veggie-bejewelled green lentils were the supporting cast to this superb plateful. There are those who would sit in a Parisian brasserie eating such a dish whilst bemoaning the lack of similar back home. Here is indeed the proof that food in the UK is often the equal of that you will find across La Manche.

The French might criticise our food but they have embraced Le Crumble with almost missionary zeal. Every chic restaurant has its version of this great British classic. 108 offered me a Spiced Pear and Walnut Crumble that would drive Continental visitors to exclaim (quietly, if they are French) “Zis is ze best”. The fruit was flavoured with those warming and Christmassy spices and the crumble was chunky, and a substantial serving after the previous two generous courses.

108 Marylebone Lane is a smartly casual brasserie which offers inspired dishes making the best of seasonal and fresh produce. A regular visitor will find something different every week but the quality will be predictable. A pleasant ambiance and attentive service make 108 Marylebone Lane ideal for those looking for a retreat from the hustle and bustle of the West End. Its location will also appeal to seekers of a reliable lunch or dinner spot to meet friends or clients. I’ll be returning.

Opening Times for 108 Restaurant
Breakfast:
Monday - Friday 6.30am - 10.30am
Saturday 6.30am - 11.00am
Sunday 7.30am - 11.30am

Lunch
Monday to Saturday 12.00pm - 2.45pm

Dinner
Monday to Saturday 5.30pm - 10.30pm
Sunday 5.30pm - 10.00pm

Opening Times for 108 Bar: Monday to Sunday 10am - 1.30am
Food Served Monday to Sunday 12.00pm - 11.00pm

London restaurant review: 108 Marylebone Lane Restaurant and Bar
108 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 2QE
Phone: 020 7969 3900
Visit 108 here

Tuttons for Tea

Henry VIII dissolved all of England’s monastic properties in 1540, because he couldn’t get his way with the Catholic church and the ‘Bishop of Rome’ with regard to his divorce. Much of Westminster Abbey’s ‘Convent Garden’ was granted to John Russell who was the 1st Earl of Bedford. The area has changed name to the tune of one letter, and the Russell family are remembered in the address of Tuttons: Russell Street.
 
In 1630 the fourth Earl of Bedford commissioned the celebrated architect Inigo Jones to build houses in Covent Garden that would be ‘fit for the habitations of gentlemen’. Jones was inspired by the grand buildings and spaces of Italy. He designed Covent Garden’s Piazza – the first open square in England.

Covent Garden became London’s largest market once the Great Fire of London saw off much of the opposition in other neighbourhoods. Many overseas visitors will still expect to see flower-sellers, and to hear them humming snatches from My Fair Lady. Those days are gone but Covent Garden Market has re-opened as Europe’s first speciality shopping centre. Not too many blooming bunches but there are some very attractive spots to take tea, and Tuttons is one of my favourites.

Newly re-opened after a major refurbishment, Tuttons Brasserie and Bar is found close to the Royal Opera House on the east side of the Piazza. Tuttons has been here for over 30 years (although eating houses have been around since the 1700s in Covent Garden).

This restaurant has the air of the Parisian haunt of those looking for good food, but this is England and we do love afternoon tea. For a quintessentially British experience, and to celebrate the 350th year of our love for that civilised habit, Tuttons is offering a delicious Cream Tea.

Afternoon Tea reached the height of its popularity in the Victorian era. Well-stayed and wasp-waisted ladies could not enjoy huge meals but preferred to have a lighter lunch and then have a delicate nibble in the afternoon. They could choose the elaborate stand of cakes and sandwiches or the very traditional but simpler Cream Tea. This consisted of scones (like American biscuits but sweet), some thick and rich clotted cream, and jam.

My companion and I had enjoyed a substantial lunch and had spent a pleasant hour or two wandering the shops and stalls of Covent Garden. Lots of tourist souvenirs but I did spy a rather nice Mandarin-style jacket. We were truly ready for a sit-down, a nice cuppa and just a little taste of something sweet. Tuttons provided the appropriate venue for our pause.

It was a cold and windy day so we were glad of the cosy shelter. Warmer weather will find the French doors open onto an outside seating area – much prized in this magnet for visitors. We settled ourselves and ordered pots of tea. Tuttons offers a wide selection of exotic and perfumed teas but I am a conservative in such things so settled on Traditional English. Real leaf tea in the Twining’s teapots, as well.

We had a brace of scones apiece and they were much lighter than most I have eaten in restaurants, or have cooked at home. Almost a cross between a scone and a sponge. I had a generous pot of clotted cream and my guest chose a pot of equal size of butter. Afternoon Tea isn’t just a hot beverage and a snack, it’s a well-loved institution. It’s a time to sit and reflect, to chat in unhurried fashion and to rummage through the shopping bags. One might doubt the wisdom of some of the day’s purchases but the Tuttons Cream Tea will be your bargain buy: it’s a very reasonable £8.50. It will help to restore the equilibrium of your outing in the most delicious style.

Cream Tea served daily from 3pm till 5pm in the main restaurant.
Saturdays - only available at the bar area.

Opening hours
Mon-Sun 8.00am-11.30pm (12 midnight on Fri & Sat)

London restaurant review: Tuttons Brasserie and Bar
11/12 Russell Street, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5HZ
Phone: 0844 371 2550
Email: reception@cgrestaurants.com

The Chinese Cricket Club

Fusion Brasserie Worcestershire for dinner

The Fleece Inn for lunch

Brockencote Hall for lunch

that has contrived to retain its original majesty yet has introduced cool modernity.

We started with an amuse bouche, a demi-tasse of one of the most memorable soups I have ever had: a gloriously rich and creamy carrot and orange soup. (Note to reviewer: ask John for the recipe). A balance of sweet from the vegetable and tang from the citrus and then there was a deft application of aromatic seasoning. This should be a signature mini-dish.

Slow Cooked Belly of Jimmy Butlers Pork, Cabbage and Bacon, Spiced Apple, Pommery Mustard Jus was the main course. Well worth trying and one of the best examples of this trendy cut of meat that I have had in a while. The meat was flavourful and melting and the presentation thoughtful. I am not keen on pork belly with crackling. It seldom works and, in my humble opinion, it’s inappropriate for a slow-cooked item when one wants to enjoy the almost gelatinous quality of meat, flavourful fat and rind. Perfect!

The desserts here are visual stunners! OK, so I didn’t just give them admiring glances, I was enticed by a couple and scoffed mine and a good percentage of my companion’s. That’s not perhaps a very genteel word but one only “nibbles” when being polite. I, on the other hand, enjoyed every spoonful with appropriate epicurean passion.

Goats Cheese Mousse, Poached Rhubarb, Gingerbread, Vanilla Ice Cream was my own choice and this was a delicious example of traditional ingredients as a canvas for culinary artistry. Sharp mousse, sweet rhubarb, punctuated with the spiced cake.

My guest’s choice of dessert was equally appreciated ...by both of us. Well, I was the official reviewer and it was my duty to taste, and in this case Parsnip Pannacotta, Caramelised Apple, Shortbread Crumb, Brioche Ice Cream. A slice of fruit like a disc of translucent glass balanced atop this unique parsnip preparation, which rather made one look at that root vegetable in a different light. A tapestry of texture and taste. Perhaps a parsnip is not just for Christmas but can actually be enjoyed! Another seasonal winner.

Chef John Sherry is a man content with his kitchen. He should be: Alison and Joseph rebuilt the old kitchen which

The Elms Hotel Worcestershire

Grand Imperial London

This recently-opened Chinese restaurant occupies part of a striking building and has undergone a £2m refurbishment. It’s part of the Grosvenor Hotel right next to Victoria Station. The Grosvenor is one of London’s great Victorian railway hotels, which still retains many period features reflecting its heritage. The hotel, formerly known as Thistle Victoria, is within walking distance of many of London's famous tourist sites including Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament.

Entrepreneur Rand Cheung has created a stunning restaurant with a design guided by the principles of feng shui. The opening night had a lion dance for luck, but this isn’t an over-themed restaurant although there are plenty of tasteful hints at Oriental opulence and style.

Grand Imperial is part of a Malaysian restaurant group which opened their first restaurant in Kuala Lumpur in December 2008. This London restaurant is their fifth project, but the first outside Malaysia. The Head Chef at the restaurant is Leung Chi Keung, who has over 20 years of

flavourful, but the star of the plate was the succulent Roasted Duck with its lacquered skin.

Sautéed cubes of Beef with Black Pepper Sauce served on a bed of onions was an absolute triumph. The meat was as tender as I have ever had, but the sauce was the memorable element. Black pepper is a much-underrated spice. It has graced even the most humble of dinner tables for centuries and we take it for granted. The Grand Imperial has a recipe that shows the qualities of those peppercorns with a dish that has unadulterated flavour and aromatic warmth. Don’t miss this one.

Pan-fried Stuffed Scallop with Minced Shrimp and Foie Gras sounded a strange combination. Yes, it’s easy to envisage all types of seafood combining harmoniously together but I wasn’t sure how the second appearance of foie gras would work. The scallop was tender and the foie gras was served as a fine sauce, which was mild and savoury and a much more subtle accompaniment than the usual bacon or chorizo.

Wok-fried rice “Hokkien” style with Duck and Prawns in a rich gravy is a dish that is similar to those found in Fujian province in south-eastern China. This was probably the most recognisably traditional course from the menu. The rice filled any little empty corners we might have had, and had the appeal of home cooking – nothing spicy and with no particular ingredient taking centre stage. This was Chinese comfort food.

Chilled Cream of Sago with Mango and Pomelo was a cool and soothing dessert. Saffron-yellow with evidence of real fruit. No need for fear: the sago is nothing like the wallpaper paste effort of school days. The dessert was sophisticated and refreshing.

The food at the Grand Imperial is excellent and the décor is well considered, taking advantage of its imposing Victorian architecture as well as paying homage to China. Its location will assure its success, but it deserves to have its food taken seriously as well.

Grand Imperial London is open 7 days a week 12pm - 3pm and 5.30pm - 11pm

ORA Thai Food and Jazz

Big Easy

winning Big Easy, which is an institution where you will be a lot more welcome, and staff are even polite!

This casual restaurant is modelled on those American Gulf Coast crabshacks. That might not mean much to most Londoners but let’s describe it as the cosiest of eateries with a real taste of Americana. It’s like the best of rib joints I have ever visited in the US, and although evidently themed the end result of that themeing is an authentic-feeling barbecue and seafood restaurant.

The walls and ceilings are black. That’s just like the rib restaurants I have visited, and I guess it originally had to do with the smoke from cooking the meat. Be assured it’s only paint here but it adds to the ambiance. The main decorations are the diners. The place is buzzing with mostly regulars, it seems. We met lots of fellow eaters who said it’s their favourite spot for ribs and shrimp.

Over 15 years ago, Paul Corrett opened Big Easy and it’s been popular ever since, and once you step inside, sit down and relax, you will understand why. It’s an institution that’s about chilling as well as chewing. This isn’t fast food. You can get very speedy fried chicken along the road and one is never far from a quick plastic burger. This is food you will want to linger over. Order a beer or a margarita and peruse the menu.

Roasted Crisp Potato Skins were my choice for starter. Baked potato skins topped with sour cream and cheese were in reality stuffed baked potatoes. Surprisingly light but still a substantial start. I can recommend these. They had a garnish of well-dressed salad to enable me to feel at least a little noble.

My guest was taken by the “Voodoo” chicken wings. They were traditional Buffalo wings. Yes, I know that bison don’t fly; this preparation is said to hail from that northern city of Buffalo and consists of spicy wings served with celery and a blue cheese dip. These were piquant and finger-lickin!

the bell at skenfrith, Monmouthshire

the bell was re-opened in 2001 and already has an enviable reputation. Visit Wales has awarded the bell Five

They are civilised at the bell. They offer breakfast from 9am, but earlier by arrangement. This isn’t motorway services offering food on the run. One is cosseted, pampered and lulled into a cosy and content stupor here. Wander

Castle House Hotel, Hereford

Castle. Now the traffic is mostly children heading down Castle Street to school. It’s a privately-owned townhouse hotel and rumoured to be most luxurious in Hereford. That’s a lie. No, not the bit about it being the best hotel in Hereford, but it is not one but two townhouses merged together to make a single architectural stunner.

In the early 18th century, a local businessman built a pair of fine Georgian villas in what was then the middle of the road. The two houses looked directly down Castle Street towards the cathedral at the end. The rear of the building was added in the second half of the 19th century when the then-owner Frederick Boulton was granted permission to remove the party wall to make one magnificent house. There is little evidence of the conversion apart from the wide and imposing front door and the striking staircase in the hall.

From the 1920s Castle House was a boarding house then in the1940s it became a hotel for gentlefolk. It’s now been renovated with taste and sympathy. This Grade II listed building is privately-owned by local farmer David Watkins, whose produce features on the hotel menu and whose daughter now works at the hotel. Original features remain, whilst the hotel offers discerning guests high-end comfort in both public rooms and private suites.

The suites here are sumptuous. Ours had high ceilings, tall windows with a view towards the cathedral. The sitting area will likely be larger than your lounge at home. The oval desk sported a decanter of sherry but the guest need not worry that old-fashioned charm was maintained at the expense of 21st century technology. Every room has broadband access, TV and music facilities. One can work and play.

The four-poster bed was a delight and the linen was turned down each evening. The bathroom was well appointed with a selection of pampering toiletries that would have one lingering in steamy bliss. My advice would be to leave such soaking till after dinner or you might just miss a culinary treat.

The Castle Restaurant is one of the finest in Herefordshire. The kitchen might be small but chef Claire Nicholls presents food that has visual impact as well as being delicious. Claire trained at Hereford Technical College and then at the Birmingham

I was bound to pick the Rib Eye of Herefordshire Beef. Whilst I can’t swear that this cut came from David’s farm I should say that it was succulent and full of bovine flavour. I am not a great meat eater but it’s no surprise even to me that this is one of the most popular dishes here. Several American guests ordered the same and all appreciated the substantial plate. Yes, dear US visitors, we do have excellent food in the UK. Please spread the word to the folks back home.

Save a little space for dessert. We both enjoyed Sticky Banana and Date Pudding, Butterscotch Sauce, Roast Bananas, Vanilla Ice. Don’t rush. Order a pudding wine or some coffee and relax in candlelight and the gentle buzz of convivial conversation.

Our stay was too short. We will be tempted back in summer.  Perhaps we will sit by the old moat and watch the ducks, take a stroll around the old town, but we will be sure to be back for lunch. No, this isn’t a cheap hotel option but it is value for money. You get what you pay for, and the memories are priceless.


Breakfast is served from 7am - 10am
Lunch from 12 noon - 2pm
Dinner from 7pm - 10pm
(9pm on Sundays and Bank Holidays)

Hotel and restaurant review: Castle House Hotel
Castle Street,
Hereford, HR1 2NW
Phone: +44 (0) 1432 356321
Fax us on: +44 (0) 1432 365909
Email: info@castlehse.co.uk
Visit Castle House here

Auberge du Lac

The Phoenix - Geronimo Kitchen

The Phoenix is an attractive and traditional pub. Just the sort that tourists long to find and locals want to have as their local. These establishments were becoming thin on the ground but thankfully there are many pubs now that are returning to those old-fashioned values that made British public houses so celebrated across the globe. A place to have a good time with many original features.

It’s just a five minute walk from Victoria Station and not far from Buckingham Palace, although nobody has suggested that HM has ever popped in for a schooner of sherry. This is an oasis of homey comfort and good food which beckons office workers for lunch, locals in the evenings and tourists at the weekends. Those good folks will return home with tales of “the cutest pub you ever did see” and “Abner just loves the food those Britishers eat over there”.

The first floor private dining room at The Phoenix is home to the Geronimo Training School. That isn’t a university for renegade Native Americans. The Geronimo in question is a company that over the past decade and a half has earned a reputation for quality pubs. The recent accolade “Food Operator of the Year 2010” from The Great British Pub Food Awards illustrates that they have been recognised by the food and beverage industry for continued high standards.

In January 2011 The Phoenix become the HQ of the Geronimo Inns' first training kitchen. This project is overseen by Executive Chef Peter Wright, who will give guests the opportunity to be the first to try new seasonal dishes before they are introduced to the pubs in the group. The training kitchen will be serving lunches from 12-3pm from Tuesday to Thursday every week and one can choose from a daily changing menu of 3 starters, 3 mains and 3 desserts. Guest comments are encouraged, with diners being requested to fill out a simple questionnaire about both the food and the service.

No need to feel anxious about the “training” aspect of the kitchen. It’s just a way of refining dishes and allowing chefs to learn about the new menu, to enable them to present uniformly high-end food at any of the Geronimo inns. Both the kitchen staff and front-of-house team did a grand job when I visited in January. The room was full, with a large party of office workers. They all seemed to enjoy their meals (I had a peek at their questionnaires), which all arrived in a timely fashion. I have seen “restaurants” fare less well under pressure.

It’s about now in my review that I wax lyrical about the dishes I ate. I might encourage my reader to try those very same dishes on their visit to a particular restaurant. I might recommend the signature dish that is sorely missed by regulars when the chef has the temerity to remove it from the menu. I can only tell you that the dishes you will be offered will likely not be the same as those I ordered. It’s the nature of a training kitchen that those seasonal recipes will change frequently. Suffice it to say that my quiche was ample and unbeatable, and that the slow-cooked pork belly (very trendy these days) was tender of texture with delicate aromatic flavour, and that the marmalade pudding was a real, honest comfort pud – the sort I would remember from my boarding school if I had ever been to one.

The first floor of The Phoenix does not disappoint. It has a rustic yet contemporary decor. The wooden tables are eminently covetable. The food represents pub grub at its gastronomic best and the serving staff are friendly. One could ask for nothing more ...apart from, perhaps, the recipe for that pudding.

Tuesday - Thursday, 12-3pm (bookings taken 7 days in advance or walk-ins)
2 courses for £10.00
3 courses for £13.50

Opening Hours:
11am - 11.00pm (Mon-Sat)
12pm - 10.30pm (Sunday)

Café Spice Namasté Khaadras Club Night

In the seventh century, Arab armies conquered Persia (now Iran). Some Zoroastrians were converted to Islam whilst others fled to India. They settled in the western part of the country where the community already had trading contacts, and they established settlements to the north of Mumbai. Their descendants founded the community which later took the name Parsi (Parsee),
 
They were not universally welcomed in India. Jadi Rana, the king of Gujurat, is said to have pleaded “My country is overflowing already so how would we find room for you as well?” The leader of the Parsi community asked for a bowl of milk filled to the brim and also a spoonful of sugar. He then carefully stirred the sugar into to the bowl without spilling a drop of milk. “We are like sugar. We will only sweeten your land.” explained the Parsi.

Parsis have enjoyed great success in India but we in London also have a celebrated Parsi who has come to sweeten London with his notable and delicious food, and he even offers his guests the chance to try some traditional Parsi fare. Celebrated chef Cyrus Todiwala invites one and all to The Khaadras Club Night!

This ‘Greedy Gourmand’s Club’ was established after Parsi friends begged Cyrus and his wife and partner, Pervin, for some dishes from their own community. It was to be a meeting of friends with a focus on food. It has become such a popular event that Café Spice Namasté has made these feasts available at intervals throughout the year. The event is always eagerly awaited by Parsis but equally by lovers of fine food, and as this is a true Parsi event one can be sure that the helpings will be generous. It is indeed well-named the Greedy Gourmand’s Club.

The food on these evenings is authentic and presented to an audience comprised of many who know exactly what they want, and how it should be cooked and presented. I am no expert on this little-known cuisine but I can attest to the fact that the food was mouth-watering, served with many smiles and much good humour, and there was plenty of it – food and humour, that is. This wasn’t just an evening at any old restaurant. This was a Todiwala celebration and had the air of a family party. Cyrus and Pervin are famed for knowing their regulars by name, and that warmth is magnified on these special evenings when all of us were welcomed as friends.

Inamo – St James

Inamo is the brainchild, more accurately brain children, of owners Danny Potter and Noel Hunwick, who met when they were undergraduates at Oxford. Inamo is a pioneering Oriental fusion restaurant and bar concept. The Inamo Restaurant (Soho) had the interactive tabletops as its unique selling point. The overhead projectors provide a changeable cyber-tablecloth as well as direct food and drink ordering. Your dishes are delivered by a human and help is on hand should your digital ineptitude result in a request for 25 portions of Crispy Five Spiced Pork Belly and a pot of green tea.

Following the success of the Soho original there is now a second restaurant, on the former St Alban site on Regent Street – a prime location for a Japanese restaurant in a parade that has several shops and restaurants of the same ethnic persuasion. With a total capacity of 300 and spanning a colossal 8,000 ft², the venue could have had all the charm of an aircraft hangar. It has taken thoughtful design to make this restaurant feel intimate.

The Soho branch was unique and fun but St. James is Inamo all growed up. Yes there is still the techy element but it’s upstaged by the decor. It reminds one of walking through a glade of bamboo. OK, so not many of us can boast of having had such an experience, but we can imagine. Chunky stands of straw-coloured bamboo act as dividers, while movable screens offer flexibility – a corner for a romantic dinner, a space for an after-work gathering.

There are a further two private dining rooms which can seat up to 16 each, where one can have a more personally tailored dining experience and even bring along one’s own music. Perhaps those tunes should reflect the ethnic style of the restaurant. Snatches from the Japanese classics rather than J-pop or, heaven forbid, Abba.

The bar at Inamo St James is striking and accommodates not only cocktail preparation but that of sushi and sashimi and the like. Two deft chefs prepare your food to order. It’s an area in which to congregate before moving to your table.

The sophisticated fusion menu has influences from Japan, China, Thailand, and Korea. Small dishes can be ordered like oriental tapas. You can take your time and graze, the interactive menu lets the diner pick and order individual dishes at will. Allow your meal to evolve.

We settled at the sushi bar and watched as our food was prepared. We were taken by the new dishes on offer. Black Bean Tuna – seared tuna coated in black bean and wasabi, served on pickled mouli with cucumber miso dressing – was a flavourful delight. I must admit that I often find cold Japanese fish dishes to be bland, but this one hit all the right textural and taste notes.

Unagi Maki – grilled eel and avocado maki wrapped in chives – is another must-try from the Small Dish section. Eel is a popular oily fish and it’s a shame we don’t find it more often on Western menus. It seems to be a staple in Japanese restaurants so I usually take advantage.

Beef Buri Bop – a traditional Japanese rice dish served in a hot metal casserole with garlic soy, ginger sauce and rib-eye steak – was the star of the evening. There is an element of theatre surrounding this dish. A human arrives with your cast-iron vessel. He removes the lid with a flourish to reveal a mound of rice with an egg yolk returning one’s gaze like a jaundiced Cyclops. There is a garnish of almost raw meat and a small jug of sauce which is poured around the rice. The contents of the pot are then mixed with a few stirs and scrapes to reveal golden rice crust on the bottom. The egg and the meat cook on the hot metal and a delicious aroma rises from this substantial dish.

If you loved the Soho Inamo then you will be equally pleased with the St James sister restaurant. If you didn’t like Inamo Soho then do try St James. It has the same fascinating selection of dishes but the ambiance is a world away. It has a focus on style and it’s achieved that very well.

Opening times:
Mon-Sun
Lunch 12.00-17.00
Dinner 17.00-00.30

Triphal Indian Restaurant – Southfields

Opera Tavern

Portal Portuguese Restaurant

Between the First and Second World Wars a warehouse was built at the back and that is now the kitchen and the main dining area. The courtyard was converted into a conservatory, making a stunning space showing old brick to great aesthetic advantage. The Adega Room at one side of the dining room is a private glass-doored wine store, furnished with

Goat Cheese Tart with Crispy Leeks, Asparagus, Honey and Toasted Almonds was my starter. This was a delightful twist on the ubiquitous tart. No thick pastry here: a substantial round of cheese is perched atop a round of pastry, making the whole a delicate affair. The honey glaze was an innovation that I will personally be stealing.

Braised Bisaro with Pea Mash and Roasted Baby Peppers sounded

visited. Yes, it’s a matter of taste but Portal suits my taste for decor and cuisine, and I suspect I am not alone. It’s unique and has been added to my list of favourites.

Namaasté Kitchen

replicated the sealed pot in which the rice would traditionally have been cooked (a little terracotta casserole sealed with dough). The waiter deftly cut away the crust to reveal meat that did truly fall from the bone with only the encouragement of the vibration from the passing traffic. The rice was both spicy and perfumed and one could indeed imagine Maharajas eating this as the peacock-feather fans wafted. This was the best biryani I have tasted in ages and enough in one serving to satisfy at least one hungry rugby player.

My guest ordered Tandoori Rubiyan Duck. This nods to the cuisine of Rajasthan and in particular Rajput dishes which take advantage of game birds. The succulent slices of duck were served with a tiger prawn, making this a luxurious plateful, but very reasonably priced, as are all the items on the menu. Once again a substantial portion.

Dessert consisted of a Coconut Ice-Cream which was a light and refreshing end to the meal and was accompanied by tandoori pineapple – a winning combination. My only complaint, and it is a small one, is that my Mango Crème Brulée, whilst being expertly bruléd, was not set. Delicious, yes certainly, but it was rather too liquid. For me, this little lapse in an otherwise superb meal can happily be overlooked.

The Commonwealth Kitchen at the Commonwealth Club

There is something rather appealing in the prospect of being a member of a prestigious club. Many of us are members of fitness clubs but we hardly ever go because it’s hardly ever fun. We profess to be short of time as work is our focus. But there is another kind of club that does not involve any unseemly physical exertion.

Located in the heart of London and just a short distance from Trafalgar Square, Embankment Underground station and the Thames sits The Commonwealth Club. This a contemporary haven of a venue that offers space to check emails, meet friends or clients, and has flexible areas that can morph and move to host either corporate or private events. But we non-members can also enjoy a little of that well-placed conviviality, even if it is only in the restaurant and in the evenings. A visit or two might even encourage you to seek membership.

It started life as the Colonial Society. On Friday June 26, 1868, Viscount Bury declared that the intention was “to provide a meeting place for gentlemen interested in colonial and Indian affairs.” The Society’s first clubhouse was above a shirt shop in The Strand, and it stayed there till 1885. Women were admitted as Fellows from 1922.

The expanded and renovated premises on Northumberland Avenue were opened in 1936 by The Duke and Duchess of York, later King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, mother of our present Queen. In May 1958 what had become the Royal Empire Society took its present name of the Royal Commonwealth Society. Within it, The Commonwealth Club was opened, after extensive building work, in 1998.

The Commonwealth Kitchen and its head chef Oliver Tobias serves up an ever-changing menu of modern European classics with the addition of Commonwealth-themed dishes. The regular menu changes every month to reflect seasonal produce, and the

well-travelled set.

The Commonwealth Kitchen is a light, bright and airy space with striking movable banquettes to accommodate events. The menu might not be long but it offers something for every taste. Even frequent dinners will not easily become bored. None of the “this is Wednesday so it must be mince” mentality. When I visited, the chef was presenting dishes that gave a nod to India. Just now it’s Australia with such items as Sizzling Kangaroo Sausages, char-grilled ‘Newies’ and Mountain Pepper Berry Jus. One might finish that antipodean’s repast with Apricot and Eucalyptus Pavlova.

We chose the seasonal menu and I started with Terrine of Rabbit and Black-leg Chicken, with Sand-grown Carrot Purée. This truly was a terrine rather than a paté – a coarse-chopped meaty preparation with robust flavour and texture.

Poached Sea Bass, Pumpkin, Cranberry and Tarragon Vierge took my guest’s fancy. He is a man known to have a love of fish but a healthy distaste for anything containing a bone. He was more than content with his bass that was delicate and well-complemented by its accompaniments. The cranberry worked as a particularly delicious foil for the sweet fish.

Chard Farm Venison ‘roast and braised’, Confit Celeriac, Red Cabbage and Bitter Chocolate Jus was his main course. He was anxious that his meat be cooked to just past bloody. He was advised that over-cooking might result in a tougher final result but the venison arrived with only a florid lacquer and was still butter-tender.

North Scotland Monkfish, Mussels, Orzo Pasta and Shellfish Nage was one of the most agreeable seafood dishes I have had in ages. The monkfish was hearty and substantial and served atop a risotto of orzo, a much under-valued pasta and more delicate than the more predictable rice.

Spiced Apple Cake and Blackberry Variations along with Peppermint Tea Panna Cotta and Turkish Delight were our sweets. The berry variations were, in fact, ice cream, a tuile biscuit and a sauce to garnish a cinnamon-spiced and very light apple cake. The panna cotta was a rich and creamy triumph offering a canvas to the miniature cubes of pink and girly Turkish Delight. That dessert definitely needs another sampling.

The Commonwealth Kitchen is the public face of the Commonwealth Club. Take advantage of the newly relaxed rules to visit and enjoy an evening of contemporary British dishes, or take a little culinary trip. The map is no longer covered with Imperial red but we can still appreciate our multi-cultural heritage in a most palatable fashion.

Sofra Mayfair for Dinner

One always expects something a bit special in Mayfair. Some of the best and most iconic of restaurants can be found in that neighbourhood. There are smart shops selling tailored apparel, and hand-made chocolates are showcased, well, in showcases in smart boutiques of a style previously reserved for jewellers. Yes, this area does have ‘swank’ writ large.

Turkish cuisine in London doesn’t have a reputation for presenting itself as ‘high-end’. The majority of Turkish restaurants are of the ubiquitous fast-food variety, selling kebabs. Nothing wrong with that as long as the food is well cooked and well presented. Let’s not be food snobs – moist, seasoned meat with some salad and a selection of piquant sauces is often just what’s needed to fill that dietary void between 1am and breakfast.

Sofra, however, shows another side of Turkish cooking and it’s a welcome addition to the restaurant scene in Mayfair. It occupies a corner plot a block or so back from Piccadilly and it’s a charming building. The wood-framed windows give a Victorian gothic air and a thoroughly inviting warm light shone from those very windows on a cold Monday night in December.

We gladly accepted that illuminated invitation and found a table in the corner offering a view of the fast-filling restaurant. It isn’t, in fact, as large as it first appears. Artfully-placed mirrors trick the diner into believing that there are plenty more tables behind those pillars. The tables are laid with crisp white linen, with napkins tied with red ribbon. Red tea lights added to the rather festive but subtle theme.

Our fellow guests were a cross-section of international humanity: Irish businessmen, American bankers, French students, three generations of a Turkish family, and some British tourists. Some of these folks seemed to be regulars. Always a good sign, and especially so when Mayfair visitors are spoilt for choice by so many other dining possibilities nearby.

Our waitress was quick to present us with a basket of fresh bread, olives and hummus. That gave us time to scrutinise the surprisingly extensive menu. Yes, there is indeed a good selection of Turkish favourites but this menu also includes those dishes from around the globe that have become familiar to all of us. Satay, Malaysian Prawns and Tempura graced the starter section, with main dishes including Black Cod with Miso. We wanted to try the regular Turkish fare and there was plenty to choose from, but before we had a chance to decide, we were served with a hot lentil soup taster. A nice touch.

We settled on the lamb-topped hummus, which had been recommended by a friend, and this was creamy and light rather than the coarser varieties more often encountered in supermarkets. My guest selected the Spicy Turkish Sausages, which were served in a small frying-pan. These are a must-try; do use some of the aforementioned bread to mop up the flavourful oil. Sofra would be a good venue for a meal with friends: consider ordering a selection from the starter menu – a meal of Turkish Tapas with something for every taste.

I chose the House Speciality as my main course. This was meatballs covering a layer of cubes of bread. The patties were dressed with both a tomato sauce and yogurt. This might sound an unlikely preparation, but it works. A good-quality loaf is essential – a base of Mother’s Pride white sliced would lack any kind of impact. The meat was very lightly seasoned, so a good dish for those anxious about salt intake.

My guest was intrigued by a dish called His Highness’s Favourite. Not quite sure which particular Highness this dish is named for, but he was evidently a man of refined taste. The aubergine was outstanding with real smoky flavour and smooth texture. The lamb stew which covered the purée was delicately seasoned.

Don’t even think of missing dessert. I would recommend the Ottoman Kadayif. The pastry shreds are dry rather than syrup-soaked as with Baklava. This was a cream-filled dream with a little jug of sugar syrup to drizzle. A light dessert but a triumph of crunchy elegance. A cup of medium sweet Turkish coffee was all that was needed to complete the experience.

I enjoyed Sofra for dinner and I look forward to visiting another branch for breakfast very soon.

El Cantara

We all need to get away from time to time. The freezing and wind-swept streets of London encourage thoughts of distant lands, exotic fabrics, tooled metal lamps, Moorish tiles and the gentle splash of a fountain. Perhaps a quick trip to the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, or one might harbour romantic dreams of the tantalising foods in the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakesh.

So plan your trip. Cut through Chinatown, hang a left at the top of Gerrard Place and a right down Frith Street and your journey ends at no.45, just opposite Little Italy, right next door to Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club. This isn’t a culinary take on The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. And whilst you won’t be transported through hanging fur coats to a snowscape illuminated by a lamp-post, you will find yourself in a rather tasteful corner of North Africa with more than a hint of Southern Spain.

Combining the culinary traditions of two continents is quite common. We enjoy fusion and pan-Asian meals with no thought to the marriage of disparate ingredients. The liaison between Spain and North Africa is, however, one that has endured for centuries. Indeed Spain was part of the great Islamic empire that enjoyed its European dominion for around four centuries. At the end of that religious adventure Spain retained many of the tastes of its cultured conqueror, and the world of Islam mourned the loss of those fertile lands.

El Cantara has only been open a few months but it has already won a host of regulars. Its menu is short but has wide appeal for those who enjoy the casual conviviality of Spanish tapas and for others who relish a traditional Moroccan tagine. It’s the lunch-time haunt of couples who want an express meal to revive themselves for further retail pursuits, but equally for those larger groups who deck their table with communal dishes of Paella. Yes, that’s perhaps the ethos here – sharing.

The menu offered various meal deals for a single diner or a crowd. There were only two of us so we opted for a free-style graze of inter-continental small plates to start. Hoummus was here as expected, but so were Sweet Potato Croquetas, which were a delightfully different version of the classic fried tapas found all over the Iberian Peninsula. Merguez and Feta in Philo Pastry gave a nod to the southern coast of the Mediterranean, but the stars of the spread were the Mushrooms in Garlic Oil. The smokey flavour was remarkable and those fungi exuded juices that cried out to be, and were indeed, mopped by warm flatbread. An occasion when the word ‘yummy’, not often used on this site of exquisite wordsmithery, is quite apt.

The main dishes included Lamb Tagine served in a rustic and conically-hatted eponymous dish. A bowl of plain couscous was all that was needed to make this a complete meal. Tender meat and aromatic spices. Moroccan cooking draws from sweet spices rather than the more fiery palate of South Asia.

My Skewers of Cubed Lamb had absorbed the delicate char of the grill. The meat was succulent and unadorned, being just lightly seasoned and marinated in oil and parsley. Rice and a salsa were its accompaniments, with a ramekin of mild sauce to add a delicate piquancy.

Dessert was a favourite. Crema Catalana is the Spanish (a Catalan would probably be incandescent with rage at the association with his larger neighbour) equivalent of the French Crème Brulée. Crema is, in my opinion, superior to crème brulée. The texture is silky yet more unctuous and decadent. Rather a rich custard than an apologetic jelly.

Lunch at El Cantara was a delicious confection of foods nibbled during animated conversation. A meal of fragrant dishes enjoyed in a charming restaurant of earth tones, classic tiles, intricately wrought metalwork and Marrakesh-inspired style. I‘ll return to linger on the Shisha terrace, bathe in perfumed smoke and probably order some more of those mushrooms ...if the snow leaves off!

Degò restaurant and wine bar

One might fear that a restaurant representing that city could feature such outdated tchotchke (a word denoting dust-collecting ornamentation much favoured by grandmothers.) Think Italian chic restaurant, striking use of colour and some stunning red glass ceiling lamps that one is, romantically, driven to believe might have been fabricated in those celebrated Venetian glass workshops of Murano.

The walls of the downstairs restaurant are decorated with vibrant tiles in reds, black and white with accents of gold. The seating is versatile, offering low-backed leather-upholstered banquettes which can be configured to accommodate couples or parties. The black wood tables are artfully designed to house a sunken ice-bucket. Another indication that wine is taken seriously at Degò.

Massimo Mioli comes from a family of restaurateurs. Together with three childhood friends, he came to London to open Degò. Head chef is Dario Schiavo, who has already worked with Alain Ducasse. The ages of the group range from late teens to early thirties. Their youthful enthusiasm is matched by their knowledge and professionalism.

We started our culinary Veneto adventure with a taster of Ravioli di zucca, taleggio e amaretti - homemade ravioli filled with pumpkin served with taleggio cheese and amaretti biscuits. This unlikely melange of ingredients was indeed a marriage made in heaven. The delicate pasta parcels were topped with tangy cheese which was contrasted by the sweet and almondy crumbled cookies.

Uova di quaglia all’occhio di bue con pane nero e carpaccio di salmone - fried quail eggs with black bread and salmon carpaccio - offered a tapestry of colour, texture and taste. Once again the constituent parts of this simple dish contrived to present a hearty and comforting plateful.

Insalata di polipo e patate condita con olive nere e ribes - octopus and potato salad with black olives seasoned with redcurrant sauce - was another intriguing proposition. The octopus will be enjoyed by any aficionado of these cephalopod molluscs in the order Octopoda. The flesh was tender and the diced potato made this a substantial starter. I had my doubts about the fruit sauce but it honesty did add to the experience.

My guest was curious about the Suprema di pollo in crosta di sale vanigliato con tarassaco in padella - chicken supreme in a salted vanilla crust with taraxacum - which offered both flavour and theatre. The chicken is encased in the cement-like crust and de-salted by the waiter by way of deft cracks and cuts. The chicken was

I am sure there is a law prohibiting guests from leaving Italian restaurants of any regional persuasion without trying a dessert. Gelato di castagne, tortino al cioccolato e salsa al brulé - chestnut ice-cream, chocolate tart and brulé sauce - was my seasonal choice. The chocolate tart was more of a chocolate fondant cake and a fine example of the genre. The chestnut ice cream was a revelation and has given me an idea for dessert for Christmas dinner at home. The brulé sauce was not the burnt sugar confection that I had expected but turned out to be a mulled wine sauce which was moreish and festive.

Crostatina di datteri, gianduia e salsa al mandarino - date tart with hazelnut chocolate and tangerine sauce - was my guest’s choice of dolce. He proclaimed the fruit paste on a sweet biscuit base to be good enough to encourage a second visit. The tangerine sauce had that citrus flavour that reminds one of childhood yuletides.

Degò is an eatery that is acquiring a good reputation with Italians in London as well as those who want to try a cuisine a little different from the usual high-street Italian restaurant. Nothing wrong with those, but Degò concerns itself with the specifics of Veneto and wines to enhance those unique dishes. Well worth a visit.

Whisky & Cheese Matching at the Athenaeum

Blue Monday & Balvenie Doublewood 12yr old

Westcombe Cheddar & Chivas Regal 12yr old

Suffolk Gold & Gentleman Jack

Parmigiano Reggiano & Aberfeldy 12yr old

Golden Cross Goats Cheese & Dewar’s 12yr old

Tornegus & Glenfiddich 12yr old

Royal China – Baker Street

Baker Street is in the Marylebone area of Westminster in London. It is most famous for being the home of Victorian detective Sherlock Holmes, who lived at 221B Baker Street. The apartment, like the man himself, did not exist but these days the address has been created to house the Sherlock Holmes Museum. The street is named after builder William Baker who laid out the street in the eighteenth century.

The Royal China restaurant is part of a small chain. Do not be put off by that. It’s not the Oriental version of Pizza Shed or MacDougall’s Burgers. Think high-end food with ambiance to match – thoughtful touches of presentation which mark the Royal China Group as something considerably more than most neighbourhood restaurants. The internationally acclaimed London-based company boasts over 20 restaurants throughout the world.

The Royal China has a menu which offers diners the chance to try dishes that you are unlikely to find in too many other restaurants of the same ethnic genre. If you love authentic Chinese food then this will become your eatery of choice for the foreseeable future. The bill of fare is extensive and offers something for everyone, be they carnivore or vegetarian.

The original Bayswater restaurant has been joined by Fulham and Canary Wharf branches, and now there is the latest Harrow on-the-Hill restaurant. We visited the Baker Street branch of Royal China, just a short walk from the eponymous Underground station which is one of the world’s oldest. It was a winter’s evening and a Tuesday, so one would not have expected families to be patiently waiting in line for a free table. The cross-section of humanity included regulars, Europeans, Asians and tourists of every ethnic hue. Word had obviously got around.

The Royal China is celebrated for dim sum and authentic Cantonese dishes. We perused the menu while nibbling on seasoned peanuts and delicious pickled turnip. Then it was on to the appetisers and we were tempted by Deep Fried Baby Squid with Chilli & Spicy Salt. This is a triumph of both texture and taste. And an amazingly large portion, as are all of the dishes here at Royal China.

Spicy Smoked Shredded Chicken was a revelation and a must-try. The meat had an evident taste of smoke. This is moreish – simple and memorable. I would love to know the secret of this preparation.

We were spoiled for choice for main courses. Fish is here in abundance and we chose Deep Fried Fillet of Dover Sole with Sweet & Sour Sauce. This dish is far superior to the nuggets of over-battered and doughy pork or chicken of which I have often been the victim at inferior restaurants. The coating on the fish was light and crisp. The white flesh was moist, creamy and sweet. The sauce, although still the vibrant orange colour as usual, was mild and with a less overpowering tang of vinegar.

Sautéed Chicken with Chilli & Black Bean Sauce is robust and flavourful with a salty savour from the fermented beans. The chilli was warming but far from tongue-numbing. An ideal dressing for some plain rice.

"Shaolin Monks" Vegetables in Clay Pot was the most spectacular of the dishes. The clay pot was not of the usual unglazed sort but a rather sophisticated black bowl with matching burner. The vegetable stew bubbled away merrily. This is a stew that is said to replicate a chicken and veg casserole, but the meat is replaced by glutinous morsels. For those who need meat and spice then Stewed Egg Plant (aubergine) with Minced Pork in Spicy Sauce should be on your list.

Sautéed Pak‐Choy with Garlic was delicious and aromatic. The vegetables were a little difficult to eat with chopsticks but worth the effort. Those black-lacquered chopsticks are decorated with gold to coordinate with the walls which are resplendent with the gleaming metal leaf. The Singaporean Rice Vermicelli was a spicy accompaniment. These thin noodles were yellow with turmeric and studded with prawns. Another substantial plateful.

This is the first Royal China that I have visited but I hope it will not be my last. The lunch menu offers the ever-popular dim sum (small dishes that are traditionally served for breakfast and lunch), of which there are more than 30 varieties, and there are even a few desserts as well.

There is a host of other dishes that I have a mind to try. The menu is extensive and full of intriguing possibilities. The staff were welcoming and efficient and made the Royal China experience a positive one. They are happy to give advice, and that might be welcome with so many unfamiliar options. This company has a branch in China so one can assume that these dishes are well-received by those in the know. One of my top ten Chinese restaurants.

Opening Hours:
Monday to Thursday: Noon - 11:00pm
Friday and Saturday: Noon - 11:30pm
Sunday: 11:00am - 10:00pm

Men’s Afternoon Tea at De Ville restaurant

The décor of the dining room is of monochrome floral wallpaper of bold design with unique wall lights in the form of Venetian masks. The lounge area where tea is mostly taken offers the visitor sofas in chunky cord upholstery, puffy cushions and some truly original furniture. A comfy spot yet one that does make a fashion statement.

Men's Afternoon Tea at The Mandeville Hotel is the only Afternoon Tea especially for men in London. It’s a suitably masculine event but one which panders to refined taste. This particular tea also offers the guest a range of whiskies as well as the usual champagne. The Tiffany blue china is devoid of those chintzy roses that manly sorts often find intimidating.
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Men’s Afternoon Tea has robust sandwiches such as Crab and Shrimp in basil bread, Roasted Sirloin with red onion thyme jam in foccacia bread ( a particular hit with my manly guest), Beef and Chicken Satay with chilli créme fraiche for dipping, Grilled Mediterranean vegetables with tallegio, gratinated, on black olive ciabatta (an open sandwich and full of favour). Morecombe Bay Potted Shrimps were served with Gentlemen’s Relish and toast, which made this savoury selection a worthy meal in its own right.

Man cannot live by savoury snacks alone so this tea offered an assortment of pastries and cakes. Double Chocolate Brownie, Fruit Cake with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Lemon-Basil Tarts, Chocolate-Blueberry Cheesecake, Fig Chocolate Beignets, could all be garnishing your personal masculine three-tier stand. Scones, in my opinion, should always be included and they were here, freshly baked, with bowls of Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry jam. A splendid show.

Special mention must go to the Fig Chocolate Beignet. Looking like a small doughnut, the soft and spongy jacket protected a layer of chocolate and a whole fruit. This was quite a delicious innovation and one that I will be driven to replicate in my own home. Far from mundane.

Selected teas and herbal infusions are served to help down the mounds of savouries and sweets. The Mandeville Special Blend is a good standard tea, but the delicate Jing vanilla black tea was my guest’s beverage for the afternoon. There are a couple of whiskies here to add even more to the male teatime experience. Choose from Lowland Rosebank 12yr Old, Highland Glen Garioch 15yr Old, or Speyside Balvenie 12yr Old, any of which might appeal to those who arrive frozen after arduous hours accompanying enthusiastic shoppers – they have an excuse for a warming glass.

Afternoon Tea for the ladies includes a selection of traditional sandwiches such as Scottish Smoked Salmon, Free Range Egg Mayonnaise with Cress, Home Cooked Ham with Grain Mustard, Roasted Organic Chicken, and Cucumber. The Freshly Baked Raisin Scones, etc, are also a fixture along with a decadent and substantial assortment of pastries and cakes. The Zandra’s Pink Meringues are show-stoppers and big enough to defeat even the most ardent meringue lover. You might find a cupcake with delicate icing (these are also presented garnished with a candle for those special surprise occasions that one always dreads). Miniature éclairs and rose macaroons could also put in an appearance along with the ever-popular chocolate brownie.

You will obviously want a cup of reviving tea with your indulgent treat. Flowering Osmanthus, Whole Chamomile Flowers, Peppermint Leaf, Whole Rose Buds, Jing Blackcurrant & Hibiscus are all suitably feminine. The rose tea is perfumed and seems somehow appropriate for the china, designed by the aforementioned Zandra – none other than the celebrated Zandra Rhodes. Perhaps a glass of fizz would help the sweets along and the Champagne Afternoon Tea here is rather good value.

De Ville restaurant is contemporary but with the classic attentive service that one always hopes to find in boutique London hotels. It offers an island of tranquillity just a stone’s throw from the throb of city energy from the capital’s retail hub. Fine food with a touch of innovation at a reasonable price. An accessible gem.

Visit here for the Christmas Afternoon Tea.
Men’s Afternoon Tea £23.50
Whisky Afternoon Tea £31.00
Champagne Cocktail Afternoon Tea £33.00
Champagne Afternoon Tea £31.00
Laurent Perrier Rose by the Bottle £93.00
Afternoon tea is available from 3pm to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

Breakfast
Monday to Friday from 7.00am to 10.00am
Saturday and Sunday from 8.00am to 11.00am
Lunch is served between 12.30pm and 3.00pm
Dinner is served between 7.00pm and 11.00pm
Reservations: +44 (0)20 7935 4040

Langtry’s Restaurant

My starter was Italian Ham and Grilled Figs. Simply plated yet having all the charm of a still-life. The figs glistened with caramelised sugar which gave texture and sweetness to the delicately perfumed fruit. A small flute of bread (made in the kitchen on the premises) completed that introduction to the style of Oliver’s food.

Smoked Salmon with Caper Berries was what appealed to my guest. This was an honest, generous and unfussy serving of this traditional appetiser. No intricate roses of fishy flesh. No folds of constructed piscatorial pleats. Just a plate covered with smoked salmon and a little garnish was well received.

Beef Stew with celery and a rich gravy was bound to be my companion’s main course on such a chilly winter’s day. Chunks of tender meat were joined by a side order of the creamiest creamed potatoes to add still more comfort to an already warm and homely dish. An old-fashioned delight.

I am seldom persuaded by a steak but our neighbours had ordered the spatchcock chicken from the Grill section of the menu, and those boarded meals did look enticing. I settled on the sirloin steak and it was cooked to pink-interiored perfection. Marked by the grill and well-flavoured, it was everything that a carnivore could ask for. For those of us who eat beef so seldom, it is indeed a treat and one that I savoured at Langtry’s.

The dessert list offered me Eton Mess with Cherries, amongst others. This is a very traditional pud and is said to be the result of a culinary accident at the eponymous boy’s school. One should perhaps be grateful to the slippery floors and ungainly waiters of that establishment, although I am sure no such creature exists within Langtry’s.

My guest tucked into Banana Bread and a substantial scoop of real clotted cream. Another memory of teatime cakes. That is perhaps the theme of this restaurant: it evokes thoughts of gentler days when life was less hurried. A place to return to again and again.

Langtry’s has a popular offer for weekends:
Saturday and Sunday Lunch.
This offer is valid for a maximum of 6 people per booking.
£45.00 for 3 courses including Champagne Perrier Jouët.
£35.00 for 3 courses including Louis de Custine Champagne.

Opening hours

Breakfast
07.00 am - 10.30 am (Monday to Friday)
08.00 am - 11.00 am (Saturday and Sunday)
Lunch
12.00 am - 2.30 pm (Monday to Sunday)
Dinner
6.00 pm - 10.30 pm (Monday to Saturday)

The Real Greek

The Real Greek was founded in 1999 by celebrity chef and author Theodore Kyriakou and his team. His books include A Culinary Voyage Around the Greek Islands, The Real Greek at Home: Dishes from the Heart of the Greek Kitchen, and other cookbooks promoting Greek food. The group opened the Hoxton branch and won “Best New London Restaurant". The openings continued with Bankside in 2004, Marylebone in 2005, Covent Garden in 2006, and Westfield and Spitalfields in 2008.

We visited the Covent Garden Real Greek on a cold and wet evening, but the pool of warm light from this former pub was every bit as enticing to two damp Londoners as the gently swaying lanterns of an island taverna. OK, so we weren’t going to sit at outside tables being caressed by warm sea breezes, but a bench in the cosy restaurant was welcoming.

This particular Real Greek is still easily recognisable as a pub in a former incarnation. It’s a small restaurant (seating for 50) with typically Victorian high ceilings. The walls now sport dark wood panels and the seating could be described as either convivial or packed depending on your relationship to your fellow diners.

The narrow benches are high with stools to match. The small dishes are presented on stands so the food is ‘stacked’, rather than having plates searching for non-existent space on the table-top. A practical solution to the slightly cramped conditions. This is a favourite eatery for theatre-goers who grab a quick and affordable bite before paying a fortune for seats in the stalls.

The food is, unsurprisingly, Greek. The menu concentrates on meze rather than hearty moussaka or whole spit-roast lamb. The plates are best enjoyed shared with friends - these dishes have an authentic taste and texture, and will be familiar to those who have visited the Aegean.

We started with some chubby black and green olives while we perused the menu. A good selection of standard dishes of both hot and cold meze. It’s difficult to refrain from over-ordering. Choose a few dishes at a time. This kind of mix-and-match dining works for a couple but is even more interesting for a group, with each person able to try a greater number of savoury delights.

Greek Flatbread is a must and it is truly the Real thing here. Don’t think dry and meagre shop-bought pitta but more a light and spongy disc with a delicate smoky flavour from the grill. Have this with some dips such as the thankfully non-coloured taramasalata or some Hummus with a suspicion of chilli. Gigandes Plaki are large butter beans. That does not sound very appealing but these are a world away from the bland and pale articles with which we were punished at school. These tender beans are simmered in a tomato and herb sauce and you’ll want to order more of the aforementioned bread to mop the juices. Another flavourful meze is the Spetzofai sausage casserole which offers spice from the meat and sweetness from red and yellow peppers. It’s new to the menu but I suspect it will stay.

Souvlaki is the most substantial item here. It’s the Real Greek wrap or kebab. It’s called Gyros in Greece. You have the choice of pork, lamb, chicken or halloumi, with onions and peppers, grilled over charcoal. The cooked goods are then wrapped in flatbread and garnished with tzatziki and tomato relish.

There are a lot of wines here that can be ordered by the glass or carafe as well as bottle. That’s handy for when a glass is too little and a bottle is too much. Mavrodaphne sweet red dessert wine was rather good. It’s like a very young and light port with hints of dried fruit. Have this with Greek Lemon Cake or Travithes (deep-fried pancakes) with Honey.

The Real Greek is a small chain and it’s popular. Those looking for casual dining in central London have a raft of options but these restaurants draw those looking for good food at a reasonable price and in surroundings which are far more enticing than the plastic and luminous alternatives. I’ll return for a Greek salad and a Halloumi wrap, and perhaps another slice of that Lemon Cake.

Opening Hours:
Mon – Sat: 11:30am – 11:00pm,
Sun: 11:30am – 10:30pm

Thali

This should, in all honesty, be the shortest restaurant review you will ever read. Unbeatable for its genre. Go before the tables need to be booked months in advance. I’ll be returning. It’s well up to the standard of the competition. Yes, all true, but I guess my dear reader will want some padding on those erudite observations.

A week or so ago, I enjoyed my second visit to Thali on the Old Brompton Road. This isn’t a huge rambling restaurant but more the style of a bijou treasure, with a blue reflection from a plastered wall, ornate gold-framed mirrors and discreet oriental carvings. I was impressed by the skill of the chef at my first visit but that could just have been a flash in the Kadhai. My second visit assured me that those marvellously executed dishes were far from a figment of my imagination.

Thali is the reworked, revamped, tasteful re-incarnation of Bar Asia. One would think another Indian restaurant in this classy neck of London might be a chancy proposition.

A cold Wednesday evening found my guest and me welcomed into a warm and subtly accented restaurant, and it was already half-full of diners, many of whom were regulars. These included both Europeans and Asians, and contentment was reigning. Owner Vikash Dhawan comes from a family of restaurateurs and is both charming and quietly professional, with a knack of anticipating his customers’ slightest needs, although there was not a single needy customer at those coordinates.

Vikash ably represents front of house but the Baron of the Burner is Head Chef Dila Ram. He is another of the culinary big-hitters trained by the highly respected Taj Group, who have blessed London with some of its finest Indian chefs. He has turned his skill to the preparation of traditional dishes as well as those innovative gems that will doubtless become Thali signature dishes and much imitated elsewhere.

Thali has a well-stocked bar and I can recommend the Mojito, but the food and the ambiance are the draw here. Our starters included Palak Chaat which is memorable. Spinach might be good for us but it’s not always appealing, but Chef Ram presents a confection which is reminiscent of those moreish garnishes of deep-fried seaweed in Chinese restaurants. Murg and Mirch ka Guchi - baby peppers stuffed with ground chicken and chestnuts - is worth crossing several streets to sample. Padron peppers are mostly docile but, in true culinary Russian-roulette fashion, there is the occasional one... Delicious and unique. The Soft Shell Crabs here are outstanding but don’t even think of offering to share. You will begrudge your guest’s every bite so order two portions to avoid unpleasantness.

The tandoor worked its magic on some of the most generously proportioned lamb chops I have ever come across. These chubby delights were marinated in spices, cardamom, cloves and yoghurt. Each mouthful was a succulent vehicle for smoky flavour. An example of how a light hand at the tandoor station can add taste without a hint of either desiccation or incineration. Fish lovers can enjoy a piscatorial equivalent with the Tandoori Salmon. A delicate hint of singeing with a just-cooked interior to each coral-coloured cube.

Dahl Makhani is a standard side order in many Indian restaurants. It’s a favourite dish of mine and I could eat this with just some rice and feel I have had the most comforting of comfort meals. I have recently been confronted by a nasty example which tasted of commercial tomato soup. Thankfully Thali sticks to a traditional recipe, and it’s rich and creamy and everything that I would hope for.

Seafood seekers are well served by the bill of fare. Plenty of choice, but the Prawn Paithya is striking. Royal Bengal prawns are cooked with tomato, onion and tamarind. Carnivores with traditional tastes will likely be tempted by Lamb Rogan Josh and they will not be disappointed by this spicy-aromatic example. Chicken Hara Curry will, however, will be one of the many dishes on this menu that will guarantee my return.

I have a confession. I eat in restaurants several times each week and I am seldom driven to ask for the leftovers to be packed into boxes to be taken away. Thali presented me with a dilemma: I could pretend I was a sophisticated diner and allow the remaining food to be spirited away, or I could throw my dignity to the wind and ask if they had some plastic boxes and a brown paper carrier bag. I now have a larger collection of storage containers and very pleasant memories.

Opening hours:
Mon – Sat: 12 Noon - 3pm, 6.30pm - 11.30pm
Sun: 12 Noon - 3pm, 6 - 10pm

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