2010 Restaurant reviews

2010 Asian Restaurant reviews

Updated 8th April 2011
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The Albannach – Thoroughly British

The centre of London throngs with life on a mid-week summer’s day and it’s just as thronging on a Sunday. Streets are filled with both visitors and locals taking advantage of everything this cosmopolitan city has to offer. Chinese restaurants for brunch of aromatic dim sum, American burger chains for the timid, and Spanish bars with their tapas and sherry all vie for attention.

But this is Britain and the tourist as well as the local sometimes craves some old-fashioned sustenance. Something iconic and traditional and preferably not Chicken Tikka Masala. On those occasions only a real Sunday Roast will do.

Deciding what to eat is the easy end of the lunch-seeking project. The more difficult element of the exercise is actually finding the aforementioned traditional meal. Where to go? How far off the beaten track must one trek? Well, not far at all if you are anywhere near the tourist hub of Trafalgar Square.

This open space with its tall monument to Lord Nelson and its attending lions is a draw for every tourist. The square, always photogenic and bustling with tourists, is easily accessible by public transport and is within walking distance of the majority of sights that no self-respecting traveller would want to miss; and one of those attractions should be Albannach restaurant and whisky bar.

It’s set on Trafalgar Square and has a superb view of Horatio on his column. Albannach is housed in a former bank building so has all the exterior class of the National Gallery opposite, combined with the charm of a private club. Step across the threshold and a surprise awaits. It’s a spacious and contemporary space which gives just a nod to its Scottish heritage.

It would have been tempting to have executed an over-themed restaurant with all the trappings of heavy Victoriana, or much worse, to present a cliché of the Highlands with tartan, heather on every table, and stags heads on the walls. Well, there are indeed stags’ heads and a whole Monarch of the Glen, but all worked in wire armature and covered with white tissue paper. The antler chandeliers are all gleaming white and my dear vegetarian reader will be pleased to learn that those antlers were all gathered after they were shed by their previous owners. No animal was harmed during the decoration of this restaurant.

Albannach (the name is Gaelic for Scotsman) boasts a high ceiling and a mezzanine fine dining area. It’s a vision of warm chocolate brown walls and mellow polished wood floors. The bar area has a stone floor divided by oak planks punctuated by metal reliefs of Celtic motifs.  The whisky bar boasts an unrivalled collection of Scotch whiskies – at the last count they had 130 different varieties. Contemporary chairs and tables furnish the ground floor dining space which is used to full capacity for Sunday lunch.

On this occasion we were serenaded by a delightful duo who offered much-loved standards and gentle jazz. The well-chosen music fitted the ambiance of subtle sophistication. Ella Rooke has been described as “an impressive singer” and she lived up to that accolade. She was ably accompanied by Rick Simpson whom I would describe as an impressive jazz pianist.

The Sunday Brunch menu isn’t long but it offers the most traditional of British fare. Fish and Chips, English Asparagus Salad for vegetarians, and burgers for those who might have withdrawal symptoms were all listed. The Haggis is also well worth trying – the one at Albannach is from Macsween and is, in my humble Sassenach opinion, one of the best.

The Sunday Roast on this day was ribeye steak served with Yorkshire pudding, duck-fat roast potatoes, roasted mixed vegetables and gravy. This dish is unbeatable when done well and the chefs here presented one of the best. The meat was cooked to pink tenderness and the slices were generous. The gravy was flavourful and rich and the sort that one’s grandmother would recognise. The peppers and other vegetables added colour and sweetness. There isn’t much to say about a well-executed roast dinner but the word “right” comes to mind. Albannach has a meal that visitors would hope for, and with which Londoners would be delighted.

The dessert menu is tempting for those with a small chink of space still vacant. Cranachan is a classic highland dessert of roasted oats and cream and the Albannach version includes mixed berries - the fruit compote was punctuated by clusters of the crunchy cereal. Red Wine and Whisky Poached Pear is an international favourite. The pear was thoroughly coloured and perfumed by the wine and spirit, and was served with ginger ice cream which was a triumph. A light finish to a substantial meal.

Albannach is a gem. It has an enviable location but has maintained high culinary standards. Its prices are surprisingly reasonable when one considers its competition. It’s a flexible space which offers both fine and casual dining, as well as whisky masterclasses - but more of this later. I’ll return with friends for the food, the music, and a bill that any Scotsman would be happy to pay.

Bentley’s Grill

A restaurant anywhere that has endured for 94 years or so must be worth visiting. A restaurant of that vintage in London should have statues erected and probably have its own anthem. Not sure what that might be, but perhaps “When Irish eyes are smiling.”

Bentley’s welcomed its first guests in 1916. One commiserates with those who have recently opened restaurants in the Capital in the teeth of a recession, but one can only wonder at the emotions of Messrs Bentley dealing with the First World War with its fear and privations. Even more sobering when one considers there was another War to end all Wars a couple of decades down the line.

The Bentleys owned some oyster beds near Colchester so it was a natural progression to own a restaurant to serve the shellfish. Oysters were not always the luxury product they are today. Henry Mayhew, the celebrated Victorian social historian, commented that “The number of oysters sold by the costermongers (street vendors) amounts to 124,000,000 a year.” Oysters had a higher fiscal profile by the turn of the century but the Bentleys hedged their culinary bets with the first-floor dining rooms. They were still going strong when in 1961 young restaurant critic Egon Ronay wrote: “The two Mr Bentleys are not only excellent restaurateurs; they are also oyster farmers who sell their delicious produce all over the country.”

The restaurant is no longer owned by the Bentley family but it still has the same name and location. The same beautiful striking Victorian building in Swallow Street. It is now thankfully part-pedestrianised allowing a front terrace of traffic-free calm just a few yards from the ever-frantic Piccadilly. The facade has been described as both Arts and Crafts and Italianate and it’s charming, but the interior beckoned, and it lived up to the promise that the outside had offered.

Irish-born Richard Corrigan is an easily recognisable figure and much taller than he seems on television (mental note to self – buy a bigger TV). Richard spent four years cooking in the Netherlands before becoming head chef of Mulligan’s in Mayfair. His first Michelin star was awarded at Stephen Bull’s Blandford Street restaurant in 1994. Richard launched the Lindsay House in Soho in 1997 and was awarded a Michelin star. That restaurant has now moved to Upper Grosvenor Street as “Corrigan’s".

Dehesa Charcuterie and Tapas Bar

garnished with Prawns a la Plancha with Saffron Potatoes and glasses of light fino sherry. The whole hams on the counter add to the ambiance which is more reminiscent of similar establishments in Barcelona or Madrid than just around the corner from Liberty’s.

Anchovies, almonds and caperberries started our lunch. And indeed the aforementioned fino was our choice of “beverage”, as our American friends would charmingly describe our libations. We were joined by suited regulars as well as a few Japanese tourists. No table reservations here so those in the know come early. Platters of wafer-thin ham were unsurprisingly popular although my preference has always been for the cooked tapas. This is grazing food but you’ll not leave hungry. Order a plate of this, a little of that, try the Padrón peppers - these innocent little vegetables are for the most part mild but there are a few which are unexpectedly fierce.

We chose Salt Cod Croquetas with Romesco sauce. This is a common tapas dish but shouldn’t be overlooked. The fish has a particular and distinctive taste which I have always found appealing. Salt cod is favoured throughout Spain but also in Southern France. It’s laborious to prepare at home so take advantage when someone else has done the work. This is the finest of comfort food.

Ham Croquetas are made from the last cuts of whole hams. These were exceptional in having a considerable amount of cured meat inside, not the usual sparsely-distributed fine shreds more often associated with this dish. It’s a tapas-bar staple, and unbeatable when done well.

Chorizo a la Plancha offered nuggets of well-flavoured sausage. The red paprika-infused oil cried out to be mopped with a chunk of country bread.

Courgette Flowers with Monte Enebro and Honey were delicate and sweet with a salty tang from the goat’s cheese. A classic and classy dish made from young vegetables fried in a light batter.

The Elgin Food Pub and Music House – Notting Hill

Previously a down-market Frog and Firkin, The Elgin is another pub that has recently been taken over by Geronimo Inns.  Fortunately the group has maintained the striking Victoriana and attracted a different clientele. The sports-bar atmosphere has disappeared along with its dubious drinkers, or at least the drinkers here are no more dubious than in any other neighbourhood pub. The pub does however boast a music pedigree, as The Clash played here. The tradition continues with live music on some nights. The back room of the pub is the 70-cover Music Room.

Since 1856 The Elgin has had many incarnations so it’s truly amazing that the character has survived. It now has ‘Grade II listed’ status, so those magnificent Victorian features will not be replaced by sombreros, Inuit canoes strung from the chandeliers, and black and white pictures of James Dean.

The décor is memorable and unique. A glass screen divides the front bar from the Gin Palace. This is no contemporary frosted glass affair. It’s the original stained and bevelled glass partition and it’s a testament to good fortune that it has survived both the ravages of war-time bombing and customers’ hurled projectiles.

The Gin Palace bar is striking. If the Vatican had a members’ bar it would be modelled on the extravaganza housed in this side room at The Elgin. Picture a huge dark wood sideboard with turned this’s and deeply carved thats punctuated with a glint of glass, and your mind will have conjured a fair approximation of this piece of fitted furniture. The ceilings are high here and this bar meets it in fine ornate fashion.

It’s no surprise that a Gin Palace will display a fair number of its name-sake drinks. The Elgin offers nearly 40. I am not normally a gin drinker but the waiter persuaded me that a glass of Brockmans flavoured with coriander, blueberries, blackberries and Valencia oranges might be to my taste. I am a convert and can understand now why gin was oft described as ‘mother’s ruin’. It would be easy to over-imbibe.

The Gin Palace is also a 30 or so seat dining room so we settled ourselves for the evening. There is a row of red-plush banquettes, tables and wooden chairs opposite the imposing bar but we chose the table for 2 by the window. It’s a quieter area than the main bar but it doesn’t have the isolated feel of an annex, as there is the through traffic of those heading for the music room.

Pressed Ham Hock Terrine was my guest’s choice of starter. It was moist, flavourful and well textured with chunks of pink ham. Served with toast, this made a substantial beginning. My appetite was a little more modest so I ordered the Caramelised Onion Tart with Goats Cheese which was sweet and coloured to a mahogany hue, with the cheese giving a salty tang. The accompanying salad was more than a garnish and was strewn with walnuts offering a contrasting crunch to the unctuous tart. Starter it might have been but it could equally have constituted a light lunch.

Jersey Royals and Garlic Spinach were the side dishes for the Pork Cutlet which must have been cut from the carcass of a porker of considerable size. This was a thick chop with real crackling, a sprinkle of stuffing and a potato croquette to elevate one corner of the meat above the pool of rich gravy. A hearty plateful of tender cutlet with an old-fashioned taste of real pork.

Bailey’s Crème Brulée and Rhubarb and Ginger Crumble with vanilla ice cream were our desserts. The brulée had a delicate hint of cream liqueur, perhaps a little too restrained but it was a delightful presentation of cracking sugar and creamy rich custard. The crumble could have had a more pronounced hit of ginger but it was a good example of what makes crumble so popular – a fruity, luscious base with a good topping of buttery crumble.

The Elgin is another of those pubs that are deserving of preservation. Solid food, charming ambiance and the chance of some good music. Well worth a visit.

Opening Hours:
11am to 11pm (Monday to Saturday)
12 noon to 10.30pm (Sunday)

Indigo Afternoon Tea - One Aldwych Hotel

Indigo Restaurant at One Aldwych Hotel is the ideal spot for a spot of tea. Its unique location allows for the essential “people watching” without the disadvantages of traffic fumes and noise, and with the added benefit of those aforementioned people being kept at a healthy distance. You’ll have a good view of the moving London landscape from your cosy eyrie.

Indigo restaurant now offers the celebrated British afternoon tea with a delicious twist on the much-loved experience. Tony Fleming, the hotel’s executive chef, takes advantage of the finest, freshest ingredients and has tweaked the classic dainties – both sweet and savoury – to present a contemporary version of the typical afternoon tea. Nothing too outlandish or shocking to refined sensibilities, just changes to offer a lighter although equally indulgent experience.

This restaurant is a favourite of mine. In fact the hotel with both Indigo and Axis restaurants is a haven of understated good taste and a refuge from the bustle of city life. We ordered Assam and Darjeeling teas and settled back. I was expecting something charming and different and that’s what I got.

The three-tier stand is traditional and there were sandwiches. Roast beef, pink and tempting and spiked with horseradish, in my opinion the essential condiment, is served on caramelised onion bread. Smoked salmon is a must and here it has a spread of cream cheese on onion bread. Cucumber and cream cheese is matched with caraway bread to make one feel elegant and a bit Victorian (although they might have missed out on the cream cheese, and the bread would doubtless have remained sans caraway).

Sandwiches constitute the majority of that lower layer but Indigo has added some savouries and they are miniature versions of the dishes that were so popular as part of a High Tea a century or so ago. The hearty Scotch Egg is now made with a quail egg, and the Welsh Rarebit is a crunchy crouton topped with the cheesy mix.

The usual route to teatime satisfaction lies in starting at the bottom with the sandwiches and working up. I would counsel that you should have the ground floor platter first and then pass swiftly to the third. The Eton Mess is presented in a small glass and will captivate anyone with a passion for sweet decadence. Dive in, as this concoction is best consumed fresh.

Traditional warm Scottish drop-scones served with berry compote and clotted cream also grace that top deck. They replace the notoriously fickle regular scones. They are light and delicate and a worthy addition to the plate. But cakes are perhaps the most eagerly anticipated of the collection and they grace the middle level of the stand.

The Bitter Chocolate Tart has a truly adult and sophisticated taste. It might look a small slice but it’s rich; and there is pink and yellow checker-board Battenberg to follow. This really will evoke memories of childhood, although my childhood was punctuated with Battenberg from a box, a pale imitation of this Indigo delight. But there is more to come in the guise of carrot cake. A great example here with evidence of both nuts and carrots, and aromatic with warming spices. A substantial slice.

Afternoon tea at Indigo is a new enterprise. It’s only been available for a few weeks but it’s already popular. There was a pre-wedding celebration party, the girls wearing flowery dresses to complement the pastel teatime display. Another table held a family of three generations, grandparents sipping champagne while baby in high-chair tucked into a finger of sandwich and squidgy fist or two of cake. Contentment and joy reigned. I’ll return for another tranquil Saturday afternoon and I am sure the others will as well.

Afternoon tea must be booked in advance.
£26.50 per person
£35.00 per person including a glass of Louis Roederer Champagne

Sunday Brunch at Indigo restaurant – One Aldwych

One Aldwych has one of the best locations in London. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of the capital in Covent Garden, that neighbourhood being famed as the backdrop for My Fair Lady. It’s a stone’s throw from the River Thames and all the iconic sights of old London.

The hotel is nestled between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from more than a dozen celebrated theatres as well as the world-famous Royal Opera House. It is considered a noteworthy Edwardian building and is now protected by English Heritage. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.

This stylish hotel is the lodging of choice for many a visitor from beyond these shores. It’s prized for being just around the corner from so many places of interest but it also caters for those who are not staying but just passing through. Guests who drop in for a meal and even for some entertainment in the small but well-appointed cinema next to Axis, One Aldwych’s other restaurant.

It was a bright Sunday afternoon and we were in the mood for brunch. Indigo at One Aldwych offers a striking restaurant, a calming ambiance and a thoughtful menu. It’s a small enough restaurant to feel intimate, and casual enough for you to feel comfortable meandering through the Sunday colour supplements.

Our fellow brunchers comprised a few who were evidently hotel guests lingering over the papers and breakfast, but also some regulars from across the Pond. The staff were bombarded with requests for dishes which were almost but not quite on the menu. A ham omelette sans ham – the guest would like that on the side. Some goat cheese - that wasn’t even on the menu but there was a promise that the restaurant would find some. These requests were fielded with courtesy, charm and a willingness to please. I was warming to Indigo and we hadn’t even ordered yet.

Indigo offers soup, salads, on-toast items, mains, desserts, and any two courses of the above with unlimited Prosecco for only £24. That sounded like outstanding value but the food has to be good. The Soup of the Day was watercress and it was the most vibrant and light of its kind that my guest and I had ever seen.  It was delicately garnished with oil and crème fraiche and served with a selection of breads.

Some folks expect a roast on Sundays and Indigo offers that in an interesting fashion. A roast beef salad with watercress, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce. It’s a light alternative to the traditional Sunday lunch, but my fancy on this occasion was Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions on Toast. This simple dish was a small culinary triumph of both texture and taste. The fungi were cooked to perfection and still held their original contours. The large field mushrooms added substance and the onions were sweetly moreish. A very good start.

Other items on the Toast menu included Welsh Rarebit and Scotch Woodcock. A word or two by way of explanation: Welsh Rarebit is not a bunny from Wales but is a dish of seasoned melted cheese on toast, sometimes containing a dash of ale and/or Worcester Sauce. Scotch Woodcock isn’t a highland game-bird but a savoury dish consisting of scrambled eggs served on toast that has been spread with something tangy like anchovy paste or Gentleman's Relish. Yes, a British menu can confound the visitor.

Kedgeree has been a breakfast favourite since Queen Victoria and the days of the old Raj. An Anglo-Indian preparation of seasoned rice, hard-boiled eggs and smoked haddock. It’s often dry and uninteresting but the version at Indigo has been tweaked into a moist and flavourful dish which, although still holding to its roots, was somewhat elevated. The rice had a rich yellow hue from spices and had the consistency of an Italian risotto. The eggs were quails’ and the grilled haddock was perched on top rather than finding itself broken into petals and mixed with the rice. A more refined presentation, and a delicious take on a classic British favourite.

Other dishes at Indigo also warrant mentions. The Crab and Chilli Risotto is a flavourful preparation and well worth trying. A creamy texture with a subtle suspicion of chilli. Plenty of seafood and an attractive coral colour. If you are a lover of more substantial fare then consider the Fish Pie which was well received by guests on the adjoining table and was a substantial serving.

Desserts tend to be a treat. Very few of us have the time to prepare a sweet during the week. Sunday brunch at Indigo offers the ideal opportunity to have a leisurely meal with a decadent finale. The brownies here were popular; the Banana Split came highly recommended and it was indeed the sort of pud that would make any diner feel like a kid again. Soft bananas with a crunchy sugar crust, chocolate and vanilla ice cream and fruit. Two spoons and a couple of cups of espresso and we were replete, complete and ready for the week.

Indigo at One Aldwich is an overlooked treasure. Grab a table on the balcony above the Lobby Bar. Enjoy the views from the magnificent dark wood-framed windows. Take a couple of hours to unwind and remember why Sundays were invented. Indigo does it well. Amazing value for money.

Napket - Café, Canteen, Tearoom, Restaurant

On Saturday 11 July 2009 Napket launched its largest flagship café at 61 Piccadilly, W1.  With its position close to The Ritz and Old Bond Street, the stylish Napket Piccadilly has cult designer Peter Van Hooreweghe to thank for its striking interior. Such a location deserves a memorable treatment. No, it’s not trying to be the Ritz but Napket does contrive to be something out of the ordinary.

Seating up to 70 guests, the dramatic and eclectic space offers a melange of vintage elegance and industrial buzz. Sporting huge grey-glass Murano chandeliers and black-painted baroque chairs it is truly striking in a rather posh French fashion. That expression of pricey charm extends only up to pelmet height where the techie urban pipes and conduits take hold, with a few nice swathes of exposed brickwork.

It’s true that Napket is a small chain but it has the quirky feel of a one-off independent. This branch is unique in that it offers table service to guests visiting for breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner. Table service is also available for weekend brunch, with morning dishes the likes of Eggs Benedict and Napket Omelettes. The popular lunch spread is solely self-service throughout. It is also the first of the Napket stable to offer an evening dinner menu with wine.

We were there for lunch and its popularity was evident. Its Piccadilly address would obviously help trade but there were plenty of regulars here, and Napket has a raft of competition. It’s the food that draws the punters back. It’s rumoured that there are 20 varieties of speciality Pound Cakes here, so we grabbed a slice of Banana Loaf. Moist and moreish, it had all the credentials of homemade. But a slice of indulgent sweetness does not a lunch make.

My guest ordered a cup of soup from the station just by the front door. The same chef was offering toasted sandwiches and there were several generously-topped pizzas on this cold and wet summer day. The packaging is designed to be not only visually appealing in stark black with gold Napket logo, but practical for both eat-in and take-out. Consequently the soup was ladled into a large paper cup.

The salad bar here is becoming legendary. The choice is wide and the portions are huge, although I found the white marker-written salad menu rather confusing. This place caters for the salad connoisseurs. There is an extensive range of meats, leaves, vegetables and dressings to select from so your salad is made to order before your very eyes, and you have nobody but yourself to blame if your combination is bizarre or boring. The queue here was rather long but we had arrived at the busiest time and the bespoke nature of the salads encourages a slower turn-round than picking plastic from a shelf. The salad bar closes at 3 so ideal for those who have been kept in over lunch by the boss.

My Caesar salad was enough for two hungry diners and was full of the good stuff. No skimping here. Chicken, bacon, mixed leaves, Parmesan cheese and dressing were all there in abundance to the extent that my eat-in lunch morphed into a take-out supper. OK, so the plastic ‘silverware’ didn’t tick any boxes for me but it’s practical and the tables are cleared at top speed. I didn’t see any lingering debris.

My companion was taken with the chilled smoothies and opted for Immunity, which was a thick concoction of apple, mango and banana. It was pronounced delicious and possibly a worthy lunch substitute for those on the go.

Napket Piccadilly offers something for everyone. Whilst it’s not the cheapest option on the block it’s also true to say that you get what you pay for in both quality and quantity of food, as well as ambiance. I have visited for morning coffee when the café was tranquil and the staff attentive. The lunch hours are vibrant and the tables packed. Not sure what the evening might bring but I am sufficiently impressed to want to return.

Roast for Breakfast

It’s breakfast that seems to catch the imagination of visitors to these shores. They suppose that we Brits eat a fried breakfast every day. Many of us wish we could, but the constraints of time, finances and waistline prevent a big fry-up from being anything other than a too-infrequent treat.

Roast in Borough Market offers very decent breakfasts. Yes, you will assume, dear reader, that the sausages will be superb and that the bacon will be memorable. Right on both counts. Roast has a great reputation for all things meaty. An evening meal here should not be passed up. But Roast has vegetables as well.

The Full Monty, Traditional English, and Big Fry-up are all the same thing. Substantial, delicious, moreish, tempting and meat-laden breakfasts. We wax lyrical about them because they are, from time to time, just what we crave. But how’s about vegetarians? Menus will offer vegetarian specials and non-meat options but they are often boring and almost always too worthy – fiddle-head fern cutlet and yak’s milk smoothie.

I am not a vegetarian, as I am by nature greedy. I love food in all its myriad guises so if for whatever reason I felt unable to eat meat, I would want to have the option of still enjoying the best food. So what about breakfast? Roast has a menu that embraces vegetarians, holds them close, says “There, there, you’re safe now” and presents them with a grown-up brekkie sans meat.

Try the Veggie Borough which includes a Veggie Borough banger, grilled tomatoes, field mushrooms, tattie scone, wholemeal toast and your choice of eggs. Now, that’s what I call a real breakfast that just happens not to include meat. Those veggie bangers are substantial sausages made of vegetables and grains. The texture is hearty and firm, and they’re full of herby flavour.

If your mind is set on somewhat lighter fare then you could do worse than a 3-egg omelette. These are fluffy and flecked with the fresh green of chives. Neal’s Yard Cheddar cheese, field mushrooms and herbs, or Smoked trout are your veggie options. A side order of bubble ‘n’ squeak might be tempting but remember it’s fried in beef dripping. For my overseas readers I should explain that this confection is a traditional Monday dish made from left-over potatoes and greens from the Sunday lunch. Patties of these crushed vegetables are seasoned and then fried till slightly browned. Delightfully comforting and rustic.

There are plenty of lighter items for vegetarians to graze upon. Toasted cottage loaf with a selection of English preserves, fresh fruit salad, muesli with Earl Grey prunes and yoghurt for the more health-conscious. Also Scott’s porridge oats with a jug of cream for the colder mornings. Two boiled eggs with Marmite soldiers for those with a taste for the finer things in life. Gypsy toast with stewed cranberries, bananas, pistachios and soured cream. Kippers with lemon and butter. Smoked trout with scrambled eggs.

The Full Borough is the meal of choice for the carnivore of the species. High-quality ingredients to remind us of why the most celebrated of British meals is still so popular. Ramsay smoked streaky bacon, Cumberland sausages, fried bread, Ramsay of Carluke black pudding, grilled tomatoes, field mushrooms, bubble ‘n’ squeak and your choice of egg, poached, fried or scrambled.

Roast has an appealing early-morning ambiance. Its prices are reasonable for such an establishment. The ingredients are well-chosen and the finest of their type, from the jams and preserves to the sausages and bacon. Breakfast isn’t a meal to be rushed. This is a departure from your usual routine. Order some Roast special-blend English breakfast tea instead of your mug of instant coffee. Indulge in a generous cooked breakfast prepared by chefs who are more awake than you are. Relax and read the morning papers rather than scraping the toast over the kitchen sink. In other words, enjoy!

Breakfast Menu
Monday - Friday 7.00am - 11:00am
Saturday 8.00am - 11:30am

St Pancras Grand – Breakfast

It’s one of Britain’s most celebrated buildings and doubtless the most stunning of Victorian stations.
St Pancras has it all. Original brickwork and sweeping iron beams framing huge windows. A bustling terminus welcoming travellers from both home and away, and bidding bon voyage to those off to the Continent or elsewhere in Britain. It has marvellous facilities for the comfort of those souls.

Early Friday morning found us rubbing shoulders with the thronging masses of commuters and holiday-makers. Slightly limp shirts, briefcases, panama hats and posh frocks adorned the bodies waiting for trains, for friends, for family and for food. No need to go hungry here, and the choice of eating establishments is extensive.

One finds the usual selection of Costabucks and Sarnie Salons on the ground floor. All reasonable quality food I am sure, and just what you want when looking for portable snacks and drinks. But take the escalator to the first floor and discover somewhere that could well become your regular pit-stop. It certainly has become mine.

St Pancras Grand is just the style of restaurant that one would seek out when in Paris, but here it is and it’s ours. At first glance one might expect a breakfast here to be something just for the occasional treat. Well, think again. A tasty savoury and unlimited tea will cost less than £7; the ambiance is free of charge. Compare that to a single cup of coffee and a muffin elsewhere and you’ll agree it’s an attractive alternative. Visually and financially.

The Grand English breakfast is just that. It’s the full works and bound to be a favourite with those waiting to board the Eurostar to France. This restaurant will get you in the mood. You have a view of your iron horse while you savour your eggs and bacon and all those other items which make the fry-up truly Grand.

Many of those Eurostar travellers are celebrating. Breakfast at St Pancras Grand offers the most stylish start to the trip. Smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, toast, tea and coffee are joined by a chilled and sparkling glass of Pommery Brut Royal NV. You can order a glass of fizz with any breakfast dish, even boiled eggs and soldiers.

Eggs Benedict is often my breakfast of choice ...when someone else is cooking. It’s a comforting yet classy dish and done very well here. Buttery Hollandaise sauce coating eggs poached to yolk-flowing perfection, several slices of ham, and toasted English muffin made a rich and sustaining start to the day.

My guest has a blokey appetite for substantial breakfast nosh, and the sausage sandwich took his fancy. Simple fare relies on quality ingredients for its success and these Cumberland sausages were pronounced flavourful and meaty. The bread was a soft roll which made for easy eating and both brown and tomato sauces were served on the side. Only a Philistine would attempt to devour a sausage sandwich without such condiments.

If you are en route to La Belle France then you might want to consider a Continental breakfast. There are all the components on the menu to provide a light repast. Fruit juice, a Danish pastry and some coffee could fit the bill. The pastries are warm and buttery and melt-in-the-mouth.  A bowl (it's a large bowl) of Greek yoghurt with a jug of honey is probably healthier. Homemade granola with berries also comes highly recommended, although porridge might be in favour during the colder months.

St Pancras Grand is affordable luxury. It’s surprisingly good value for money for such a stylish and comfortable restaurant. Come in time to allow for a long leisurely breakfast. Bring the morning paper and sit back and enjoy. It’s tranquil, unhurried, and pampering at a decent price. Visit when you are travelling from St Pancras or Kings Cross, which is just across the road.

Opening times:
7am - 11pm daily,
9am - 11pm Sunday

Kid’s Cook at Cookbook Café

These Kid’s Cook classes at Cookbook Café allow mums and dads a casual dining occasion with their children at the Saturday Brunch. The raft of food on offer will tempt the pickiest of young eaters. A little taste of this, a thin non-threatening slice of that. The waffle station will be a draw - the chef will make huge waffles to order and before your very eyes. Adults will appreciate the complimentary fizz and Bloody Marys while they unwind, and then it’s cooking time!

Food seems to be a big leisure trend. It has been for quite a while. Smart 30-somethings talk a good story about their favourite caviar, that little bistro around the corner and the latest Gordon Ramsay TV mega-series. I say ‘talk’ because it seems there is more chat than culinary action, and there is a reason for this.

Pie-baking is an outlet for delicious artistry. Ready-made pastry was filled with chopped apple and formed into satchels as part of a back-to-school theme. Mounds of fruit were deftly crimped into parcels by small hands, with perhaps a little assistance for a three-year-old from larger chef’s hands. Yes, even children that young will enjoy the experience. Rather shy at first, he was soon pulling, pressing, and decorating along with the older children, and was delighted to present his mum with his first attempts at cooking.

The event finale was icing and decorating a chocolate bar. It’s true that lots of those sweet silver balls didn’t quite make it as far as the top of the chocolate, but there were plenty left that did, along with Smarties and coloured icing. The kids let their imagination run riot to create bejewelled gems of totally original confectionery.

These classes are for all ages and temperaments. Timid youngsters can keep one eye on mum and dad, and older and bolder kids will immerse themselves in kitchen exploits while parents go shopping or take a romantic walk through the park. Yes, it’s great fun but it’s also an amazing introduction to cooking and it will give parents ideas for their own cooking projects. The whole family will take away memories and inspiration. Outstanding value for money.

Future Classes

25th September
The tiny London Fashion week menu
Mini wannabe fashionistas can design their own fusion line of ready-to-wear edible treats such as pretty pretzel bangles, pizza bags and chic choc badges.

23rd October
Boo! Tasty not terrifying Halloween
Goulish gastronomic delights and hair-raising happenings await the kids. Making creepy cakes, bone-shaped bread and gooey choccy worms has never been such devilish fun.

27th November
A touch of Magic
Wee witches and warlocks whip up magic spells. Big black cauldrons boil up wizard treats. I see munchy, cheesy broomsticks, mouth-watering wands and owl-shaped biscuits in my crystal ball.

Breakfast: 06:30 - 11:00
Lunch: 12:00 - 15:00
Dinner: 18:00 - 22:00
Saturday and Sunday Weekend Brunch: 12:30 – 16:00

Cookbook Café at InterContinental London Park Lane
1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London W1J 3QY
Email: hello@cookbookcafe.co.uk
Phone: 020 7318 8563 / 020 7318 8768 (office)
Visit Kid’s Cook classes here

Mango Tree Thai Restaurant

The Mango Tree Thai restaurant is a Belgravia institution and it’s been that way since 2001. It’s part of the Asian company ‘Coca’. The Mango Tree became their flagship Thai restaurant in Europe and has won numerous awards, and your first visit will show you the reason for those gongs and plaudits.

The restaurant has a corner plot, close to Buckingham Palace. It has a welcoming bar with a casual seating area offering low upholstered cubes and tables, as well as striking high stools in teak designed for those a lot younger than this journalist. We arrived early so settled to enjoy a cocktail or two – a good selection of exotic and fruity concoctions. I chose a Scandia Berry which was a dangerously delicious blend of Cape North vodka, Gabriel Boudier Liqueur de Framboises, fresh raspberry and lime juice. Our table was soon ready so I was mercifully spared the probable temptation of overindulgence in alcoholic thirst-quenchers.

The main restaurant is feng-shui-designed, although the untutored guest will likely be unaware of the niceties of that philosophy. It does strike one as being a contemporary and airy space with teak-clad walls, tall, sophisticated floral displays and dark-wood tables resplendent with silver chargers and gold napkin holders and linen. The quiet efficiency of the waiting staff makes one feel rather special and that’s a rare sensation in a bustling London restaurant. We were seated by a window overlooking a very typical city scene of black taxis, red buses and grey skies, but we were in reality en route to Bankok.

Winner of the Thai Chef of the Year 2003 award in the Fusion category, the Mango Tree is now more prized for its authentic Thai dishes from each of the four main culinary regions: creamy, mild dishes from the North of the country, spicy and vibrant food from the East, cooking influenced by the Chinese tradition of the Central region, and hot, pungent foods from the South. The chef chooses fresh local ingredients wherever possible.

We visited on a cold wet Wednesday evening but Mango Tree was soon full. The waiter told us that their ‘50% off à la carte’ offer had proved an amazing success. There were evidently plenty of regulars who return for the quality meal bargain deal. There is a Vegetarian and Vegan menu here to give universal appeal to the restaurant.

Tom Ka Goong - spicy prawn soup with coconut milk - was the first of our starters. I am not an habitual soup eater at restaurants, although it’s a favourite from my own kitchen during our eight months of winter. This one has converted me to Thai soups with their unique taste notes and aesthetic appeal. Pale and interesting with plenty of plump seafood, the surface speckled with droplets of red chilli oil.

Chicken served with Satay peanut sauce had been recommended and it was easy to see why this is so popular. The chicken was chunky and cooked to just-past-pink succulence. The peanut sauce was moreish. In future I would be a culinary philistine and hang on to the remainder of this, to enjoy over rice with the main dishes – possibly not a traditional combination, but I hated to see the still half-full bowl of that sauce return to the kitchen.
     
Massaman Gae - Massaman curry with lamb shank - should be a signature dish. The gravy was rich and the meat was memorable. Yes, we truly did remove it from the bone with a spoon. This had the depth of flavour associated only with slow-cooked rich meats. It might not sway a vegetarian from their chosen dietary path but it will turn the head of any carnivore.

Pad Thai is ubiquitous on Thai menus. It would seem to be a simple dish to prepare and serve but it is seldom appetising and often with a consistency that obliges the diner to cut a solid wedge. Both my guest and I agreed that the high-quality Mango Tree version is outstanding with regard to texture and quantity of the good stuff garnishing the noodles.  Pad Thai Goong Lai Yai - Stir fried Thai rice noodles with tiger prawns in house spicy sauce served with fresh Chinese chives, peanuts and bean sprouts - will be a must-try for aficionados of the genre.

Kow Niew Mamuang - honey mango served with coconut milk and sticky rice - is a hearty dessert with delicate flavour. The short-grain rice is layered with the sunny-coloured and sweet fruit. It’s a warm ramekin to linger over rather than to rush.

My guest ordered the Guay Ob Ma Prow Sod - layered caramelised banana and coconut pudding with caramel sauce and banana ice cream - which might not be the most attractive dessert but it does have full-on banana flavour, and the ice cream is a winner on its own.

I have recently visited Awana which is the Malaysian sister restaurant to Mango Tree. It’s a leader of that particular ethnic cuisine, and I would venture to suggest that Mango Tree might well be a contender for a similar accolade for Thai food in London. It has understated charm and offers great value for money even at full price. I hope to return to sample their afternoon tea in the near future.

Opening times:
Mon - Wed: 12:00pm - 3:00pm, 6:00pm - 11:00pm
Thu, Fri, Sat: 12:00pm - 3:00pm, 6:00pm - 11:30pm
Sun: 12:00pm - 3:00pm, 6:00pm - 10:30pm

Chor Bizarre presents the cuisines of Southern India

This is one of my favourite London restaurants. No, not just amongst my favourite Indian restaurants but my favourites of any genre. Chor Bizarre offers a whole package of assets to persuade any consummate food lover that it's a place to visit often and to stay long. This reviewer was making a promised return trip to sample the Southern Indian Festival.

There was the usual full house for a Saturday evening. It's off Piccadilly and this side street has a well-beaten path leading to Chor Bizarre. Its discerning and faithful diners agree that this restaurant's nearest competitor is probably in Delhi, and that's a great distance away if one should foolishly wish to shift allegiances. The regular menu of chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja is outstanding, and the Festival dishes add even more regional interest.

There is a Southern Indian lunch menu which offers workers and shoppers a light repast but one which is still full of vibrant flavours and appealing textures. Rava Idlis with Sambhar are steamed dumplings of semolina and rice served with sambhar, a South Indian curry to moisten those fluffy discs. Yes, I am sure you would have had idlis in other restaurants and I am sure you would have thought them dull. Try these and you will understand why thoughtfully-prepared idlis are staples of Southern Indian cuisine.

Mysore Masala Dosa is a wafer-thin and crisp pancake. Another popular South Indian item that is finding its way into high-street eateries, but they are often limp and stodgy. One does not want one's dosa to droop, collapse on one's plate or, even more frightful, lay like a brick in one's stomach. The Chor Bizarre dosa arrives in a cone shape like the magic hat in Harry Potter, and that dosa hides a mound of mildly spiced Mysore vegetables; and there were traditional chutneys on the side.

Appam with Chicken Stew is probably the least common of these lunch dishes. Fermented rice does not perhaps sound appetising but the addition of coconut makes a batter from which delicious lacy pancakes are made. They are so thin that one could read a copy of The Times of India through their pale forms. And then there is the Chicken Stew with which it is served. The word stew does not do this dish justice. I have truly never tasted anything like it and I might even suggest that it should be incorporated into the regular Chor Bizarre menu, or perhaps feature as a special from time to time. This is an aromatic and creamy chicken dish with the subtle hint of cloves. My guest and I both proclaimed this a quite remarkable confection of tender poultry and aromatic spices. It's a speciality of Kerala but you can try this just around the corner from Green Park Underground Station.

The Southern Indian dinner menu for Chor Bizarre is just as exciting but it presents more substantial fare for those who want to enjoy an evening of unhurried culinary pampering in this celebrated and unique restaurant.

Sea Bass Nilgiri is succulent pan-grilled sea bass in a masala of green herbs. This is a sophisticated dish that will tempt any fish lover. The marinade hides a white flesh that is cooked to delicate melting perfection. The herbs enhance rather than mask the fresh flavour of the sea bass.

Chettinad Lamb Chops were a triumph. Thick-cut yet tender lamb chops were encrusted with taste-bud-tantalising spices. Black pepper is the key ingredient to Chettinad dishes, and here it is combined with aniseed and star anise to flavour the sauce; thinly sliced red onions provided a crunchy garnish. A substantial plateful and a must-try for any carnivore.

Nawabi Chicken Korma will appeal to those who enjoy mild and rich dishes. Nawabi recipes are regal and decadent and this Korma lived up to that reputation. Juicy morsels of chicken were presented in a smooth sauce of pistachios and saffron. Fit for a king ...or maharaja ...or Nawab.

Vegetarians are not forgotten. Hyderabadi Mirchi, Beans and Mushroom Salan is a memorable dish but new to me. A dish which will be particularly appreciated by those who enjoy culinary heat. Andhra chillies are small and powerful but that fire is tempered by the mushrooms and a sauce of peanuts, sesame seeds and jaggery, a Subcontinental brown sugar with a distinct taste.

Chef Manpreet has a couple of traditional desserts to tempt his guests. Carrot, Raisin and Chestnut Payasam will probably be new to those who don't have the good fortune to have Indian friends who can cook - this dessert is more often found in homes than in restaurants in Britain. Vermicelli, carrot, raisins and chestnuts are cooked into a hot and creamy sweet delight which is just right for these cold days.

Khubani Ka Meetha has my vote for comforting pud. If you like traditional Indian sweets bought from those stunning shops with barfi and other treats piled high, then you will adore this. Think of those sweets but with the consistency of thick custard and you will have the idea. I could eat this by the bucketful. Not an elegant vision, I grant, but decorum should never get in the way of an enthusiastic eater.

Visit Chor Bizarre between 10th and 30th November to experience the enchanting and varied cuisines of Southern India. For more information, email the Head Chef/General Manager Manpreet Singh Ahuja at manpreet@oldworldhospitality.com

Chor Bizarre - India's Restaurant
16 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4HW
Telephone No: 020 7629 9802, 020 7629 8542
Facsimile No: 020 7493 7756
Visit the web site here

Zilla – Son of Zing and Zest

Anyone who has an appreciation of Indian fine dining in London will take a guess that the aforementioned Zilla is indeed Indian Zilla and the third restaurant in the Vasaikar Empire. Perhaps Indian Zing in Hammersmith and Indian Zest in Sunbury could more accurately be described as culinary siblings rather than parents. Manoj Vasaikar, owner and chef should indeed be a proud father and be passing around the cigars in celebration.

Manoj is passionate about authentic Indian food. He trained with leading Indian hotel groups such as Oberoi and ITC Sheraton. His move to London gave him the opportunity to work at Chutney Mary as deputy head chef and at Veeraswamy, a restaurant in the same group, as head chef. His travels around India have fired his enthusiasm for regional recipes, and they have also cultivated a love of both refined dishes and celebrated street foods.

Indian Zilla occupies the plot of a former Worrall Thompson establishment which went to the wall a while back. I am confident that this venture will have a much longer presence. It’s an attractive double-fronted building with art nouveau touches to the taupe-painted exterior. That soft palate is used inside to create a bistro-esque vision of wood slats backing comfy cushion-festooned banquettes and acres of crisp linen bathed in sunshine from expansive skylights. There are tasteful Indian accents here – a few wooden carvings and fabrics are subtle hints. The customer already knows this is an Indian restaurant: the clue is in the name, after all.

The atmosphere changes as the daylight from the overhead glass is muted first to a pink-tinged dusk and then to a dark star-spangled backdrop to coloured lanterns, creating a sophisticated night ambiance. Indian Zilla has only been open a brace of weeks but my advice would be to book a table to guarantee your spot. Manoj’s fame has preceded him, so his newest project is enjoying a steady footfall.

Customers from the other IZs will be familiar with the menu. A melange of traditional favourites and specialities to tempt both the regulars and the newcomers. Do order a basket of papadoms and chutneys to munch while perusing the menu. Even these offer something a little unique.

We chose a mixed starter platter which offered Vegetable Bhanavla, Manoj’s signature onion bhaji – first baked then griddled to present a bhaji totally different from any you would have previously experienced. It’s a must-try starter. Green Peppercorn Malai Tikka is free-range chicken breast, marinated with green peppercorns and Indian cheese, and cooked in the tandoor. Lamb Salli is lean minced lamb flavoured with delicate fresh fenugreek and mint, infused with spices and stuffed with cottage cheese. The pièce de resistance was the Jumbo Prawn Kharphatla with aubergine, caramelised onions, tomato and pickle masala. They were a triumph. The seafood retained its fresh flavour and was cooked to a degree of succulent perfection which many a restaurant of any ethnic persuasion would only envy. I have sampled these at Indian Zing and the quality is just as high here. I have “enjoyed” many a rubberised prawn from the hands of chefs who should be banned from association with a fishmongers’ slab.

The main courses at Indian Zilla present a flavourful tapestry to admire. If one is unsure what to order then perhaps either a vegetarian or non-vegetarian Thali might appeal. These are selections of dishes which offer a balanced overview of the restaurant. However, I was eager to taste some particular dishes that were intriguing. Chicken Chettinad is now found on a few menus but here Manoj presents a version with duck.  All the taste notes of the original are respected. A full spicy richness with a black pepper bite that I find so agreeable. This would be my regular order if I lived near enough to be a regular. In fact on reflection I’ll consider moving round the corner.

My guest was indeed a regular and her unquestionable favourite dish here is Khyber Pass Raan which is a glossy shank of lamb braised in a sauce of poppy seeds, onions, ginger and spices. It’s a hearty dish of melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. The meat falls from the bone to be coated by the gravy, which needs only some basmati rice for soaking up, although some naan bread might be an idea as you’ll want to wipe the plate.

Vegetarians are not forgotten and I can definitely recommend the Exotic Mushrooms with Madras shallots and spices (Sukka Mushroom Bhaji). Try also new potatoes in a blend of tomatoes and onion gravy, with mustard seeds (Goda Batata Rassa), and okra, onions, tomatoes, peppers with black salt (this adds a particular savour) and roasted cumin (Bhindi Do Pyaza).

The Raita at India Zilla is unlike anything with a similar name found elsewhere. It’s often a lack-lustre and thin garnish and far from noteworthy, but Manoj has a preparation which is a dish in its own right. Yoghurt, smoked aubergine, onions, tomato and cucumber have substance and texture. It’s an ideal accompaniment to robust meats and it’s a marvellous addition to any purely vegetarian selection.

Many Indian restaurants have had dessert menus which are totally missable. Now we are increasingly finding opportunities to try treats that once were only found in Indian homes or sweetshops. Organic multi-seeded Masala Bread and Butter Pudding is a twist on a British favourite. The subtle spices elevate this dish from something your auntie might make to an exotic comfort pud. Rasmalai, light dumplings poached in saffron and caramelised milk, and Gulab Jamun, caramelised milk dumplings, are two of my traditional favourites but I’ll use my desire to try Poached Pears in Wine and Garam Masala as an excuse to visit again during the winter months.

Zilla is the word for an administrative district in India but it represents the whole of the subcontinent in this small corner of leafy West London. It’s a fine ambassador for the new-generation Indian restaurants which have the more discerning client in mind. Its contemporary and thoughtful design offers a casual yet stylish venue for those looking for Manoj Vasaikar's celebrated magic. Those guests will not be disappointed.

Awana for Ramadan

The breaking of fast for Ramadan traditionally starts at sunset. I had an excuse for starting my meal a while before the prescribed hour. Firstly I am not Muslim so I figured I would be forgiven for my haste, and secondly the weather was so bad that daytime and night had already prematurely merged.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The sight of the iconic crescent moon marks the start of Ramadan. And there are several reasons why it is considered important: the Qur'an was first revealed during this month, the gates of Heaven are open, the gates of Hell are closed and the devils are chained up in Hell – a very appealing notion.

Iftar is when the fast ends for the day and a halal meal may be taken. Any type of food can be eaten although the most popular are honey, breads, figs, dates, fruits, and olives depending on the origin of the diner. It is customary in some cultures for families to host Iftar meals to which relatives and friends will be invited. It seemed appropriate that I should ask a Muslim friend along to enjoy an Iftar meal with me at a particularly striking restaurant not far from South Kensington in Central London.

Tully Filmer designed the interior of Awana using Malaysian teak houses as inspiration. Rich mid-tone wood, silk panels and glass screens contrive to make this a high-end but accessible restaurant. It has an unmistakable and cultivated charm, and some of the most adept yet friendly staff of any restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. This is confident restaurant design. It is recognisably Asian but it uses none of the usual décor clichés to make that statement.

Perhaps London's only fine-dining Malaysian restaurant, this Sloane Avenue establishment introduces the European diner to the culinary tapestry of Malaysia. Awana's menu has been created by Executive Chef Mark Read and Malaysian-born Head Chef Lee Chin Soon. They combine traditional dishes with innovative modern interpretations, but we, and many others, were there for their celebrated Ramadan Feast. Europeans and Asians in heady harmony – a true testament to Britain’s cultural diversity.
   
We found our table and Mr Hai Long Wang (William), Awana's restaurant manager, led me through the Ramadan menu which was full of enticing-sounding dishes, and the reality was as good as the promise. William brings a wealth of practical dining room know-how. He is a sommelier and mixologist of long standing and has vast experience of pairing food not only with wine but also with cocktails, of the alcoholic and non-alcoholic kind.

There is an element of theatre here, with strategically positioned TV monitors around the restaurant relaying scenes from the kitchen, where deft chefs swirl sails of dough to make bread on a hot griddle. We munched on dates which are a staple fruit of the Middle East, having been in cultivation for thousands of years. Traditionally, dates are known as the food Muhammad ate when he broke his fast, so they are much sought after for the start of a Ramadan meal.

The Ramadan menu offers seven traditional Malaysian dishes which are balanced, flavourful and tempting. Roti Canai, a Malaysian bread made from a traditional family recipe, with a curry sauce, is a combination that is perfect as a starter or as a snack. This is the lightest and most delicate roti you will ever find. Delicious Satay Udang - fresh tiger-prawn skewers served with the signature spicy peanut sauce - was served alongside, and these were truly moreish. Cooked to translucent succulence, with the satay dip being good enough to eat with a spoon.

The Ramadan Feast main dishes were picture-perfect, with a pale ochre from the curry and vibrant colour from the mixed vegetables. Kari Ayam is a corn-fed chicken curry with coconut, potato and snake beans. This is a dish which is robust but light, providing a broth ideal for dressing the Nasi Putih, a form of steamed rice which is a staple accompaniment to any Malaysian curry. Sayur Sambal Goreng is a colourful melange of fried vegetables in sambal sauce, bringing texture, flavour and visual impact to the plate.

Finally we rounded off the traditional meal with an exotic bowl of Chendol, which is a confection of pandan pearls (pandan is a ubiquitous ingredient in Malaysian cuisine – a leaf which gives both flavour and colour), with red beans in coconut cream, caramel and shaved ice. It was a refreshing and light finale to a substantial meal, at a very reasonable price of £23.50.

You are able to enjoy Awana’s ‘Feast for Ramadan’ until the end of Ramadan on 11th September, from 12noon-3pm or 6pm-11.30pm. You don’t have to be a Muslim to appreciate this meal, but come along with Muslim friends who will enjoy including you in their culinary tradition, on the occasion of one of their most important religious festivals.

Dishoom for breakfast butties and a cuppa

For breakfast North Indians usually like to have Paratha which is a type of flatbread, stuffed with vegetables and spices and dry-fried, eaten with fresh yoghurt. In South India, the most popular breakfast dishes are idlis, vadas, dosas and chapatis. These are most often served with hot sambar and chutney. But a sensible Londoner might choose a bacon buttie made with naan with a sprig or two of fresh coriander and a big glass of chai. An American breakfast is often... Hang on! What was that about a London breakfast? Bacon and what?

Yes, perhaps I should mention my latest discovery. I am always on the lookout for places to eat. Not just for lunches and dinners but for snacks and afternoon tea and for delicious food before or during a meeting. I have found an ideal spot. It’s near Leicester Square Underground Station. It’s open at 8am. It’s stylish and comfortable and a great place to have a leisurely breakfast. It’s Dishoom.

We settled in a comfy booth at 9.30am. Some other tables were occupied by groups who were evidently office workers. Seems like breakfast meetings are in vogue. The financial crisis has heralded a new age of expense-account cut-backs. Breakfast is an ideal way to meet, discuss and eat without, well, eating into the day, so to speak.

We ordered some chai, Indian tea – it’s particularly good here, made with ginger and pepper and spices (although the single-estate coffee at Dishoom is rumoured to be exceptional). Everything looked tempting. Breakfast Lassi is a yoghurt drink with banana, mango and oats. Ideal for those days when you want to feel noble. It’s delicious and quite substantial so my guest and I shared that. Granola with cinnamon, fresh fruit and yoghurt with Madagascan vanilla sounded appealing. It’s the vanilla that was striking. The yoghurt was so flecked with those distinctive black specks that it could perhaps be likened to a negative of the star-strewn heavens above the Arabian Sea.

There was also porridge with dates and bananas, hot Toast, Cinnamon Rolls, Fresh Mango & Vanilla Yoghurt for those who want a more traditional start to the day, but Fruit Roomali also beckoned. Roomali roti is sometimes referred to as handkerchief bread. It’s light and makes a perfect wrap, and at Dishoom it accompanied seasonal fruit, mascarpone and honey. Healthy but hearty.

Bombay Omelette is good here and Sub-continental friends tell me it’s a common home-cooked breakfast item. It’s a spiced omelette with grilled vine tomatoes, served rolled and on toast, and if you are looking for an even more substantial plateful then there is the Full Bombay - Bombay omelette, Cumberland sausage, bacon, grilled vine tomatoes, mushrooms and toast served with house chai.

Goldfish – Chinese fine dining in the City

The restaurant is just a few weeks old and graces the former Hi Sushi site. It’s a sister of the Goldfish which has become a successful Hampstead institution. It’s entertained the affluent residents of that classy suburb as well as a clutch of celebs.

This is a classic City stomping-ground near Bank. Both the architecture and the pedestrians speak of solid international business which seems to be weathering the financial storm judging by the packed lunch-time tables. Goldfish caters for high quality and fast turn-over during the day, although the evening meals are taken at a much more leisurely pace.

The ground floor restaurant is crisp and thoughtful. A mural of a1930’s Shanghai-esque advertisement adds an air of sophistication. A wall embossed with Chinese calligraphy contrives to be both contemporary and traditional. A screen of back-lit coloured glass with the iconic goldfish subtly illuminates the main restaurant area. There is a basement bar and karaoke booth for those night revellers, but the food is the draw here.

Goldfish is new but it has already scored a host of regulars. Many of our fellow diners were evidently ’something in the City’, and there were a good number of Oriental faces amongst them. They were evidently satisfied with their meal and I am sure they know more about that cuisine than do I. That was reassuring.

Tandav Indian Restaurant

The Kerala Group was started by Mr. Haridas, more than 30 years ago. Often described as impresario, restaurateur and philanthropist, he started his career at the Indian High Commission in London and the Lions Group of restaurants. He now owns 12 restaurants and catering businesses in the UK specialising in Keralan South Indian cuisine.

In 2003 Mr Haridas was presented with the prestigious national honour called the “Hind Ratan Award” for services to India in the realm of tourism. His work in the promotion of Kerala, also known as God’s own country, has been marked by him receiving the Tourism Man of the Year in 1999 from the Chief Minister of Kerala. He is the founder and general secretary of The Global Kerala Foundation and is most famously known as the “cultural ambassador for Kerala”. He also heads the Onam Festival, Kerala Tourism Festival, India Week, Soorya Festival and other programmes promoting Kerala and India in the UK. His services to India and most particularly to Kerala have been appreciated by the Asian community in the UK for which he was nominated for “Asian Who’s Who of Britain’s Business Elite 2002”. Tandav is the latest of the Kerala Group restaurants and we were expecting something special.

The food might be enticing but Sutton High

Street is just a rather dull thoroughfare. It’s the order of neighbourhood whose allure is lost on all but those born and brought up here. It seemed a mighty long way from West London, although it does have good transport links from Kingston, Tooting and Croydon.

Tandav is a newly refurbished Indian restaurant which now offers a melange of both North and South Indian food. Its decor is interesting with purple patterned wallpaper and orange accents in the guise of tablecloths and serviettes. Perhaps purple table linen might have worked a little better but the overall impression is striking.

We perused the bill of fare and sought out some interesting South Indian specialities. Do try these as they offer a glimpse of a truly different cuisine from that more often found in run-of-the-mill Indian restaurants.

Iddly are small steamed cakes made of rice and black gram lentils. They are typically South Indian and are often served at breakfast along with sambar and coconut chutney. A great starter for those who love the spongy texture. They are bland alone but the sambar spiked things up.

Chicken 65 is a spicy deep-fried chicken dish popular all over India these days. It’s listed here as either a starter or main and is a speciality. I have seen recipes for Chicken 65 (the origin of the name is lost in the mists of time and everyone I have ever spoken to has a theory), but this was the first time I had encountered it on a menu. The vibrant flavour comes from ginger, cayenne pepper and mustard powder. You’ll need a healthy appetite if you want to enjoy both this and a main course. It’s substantial and moreish.

Erachi Ulathiyathu is a signature dish here. It was devised by Vaishak Nair who has recently taken charge of the group from his father, the aforementioned Mr Haridas. It is described as “lamb cooked in a way you have never seen before”. Well, the method is indeed quite unique and is a two-part process of meat-cooking and coconut-roasting. The end result was a striking dish of tender lamb with an almost barbecued flavour and a bite of pepper. Well worth ordering. It’s evident that Vaishak has an eye for both tradition and innovation.

Fish Molie is a celebrated South Indian dish. In this version king fish is cooked in coconut milk with spices, tomatoes, curry leaves and pepper sauce. It’s a rich and sunny preparation without the overtly fishy taste which can be off-putting to those who know that fish is a health food but who are still not charmed by unfamiliar flavours.

Tandav is bound to be a success if it can educate the locals to expect something a little different from the standard and rather banal curries of the more common Indian restaurants. South Indian cooking is liberally laced with the sunshine of that coastal region, with the fruit of the evocative palm and the bounty from the sea. Dive in and enjoy some fascinating dishes.

Busaba – Eathai – Panton Street

Busaba – Eathai. Yes it’s a chain of restaurants but it’s a small one. It carries none of the trappings of typical mid-range chain restaurants but rather each of its establishments has the air of a well-loved, well-designed, one-off traditional Thai restaurant.

I found the newest addition to the portfolio on Panton Street in London’s West End. It’s a stone’s throw from both Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square, with their cinemas and theatres, but it’s hidden on a quiet side road. Its location is prime, if one only knew it was there. It’s only been open a few months and it’s already becoming the regular haunt of those who want great Thai food sans mortgage.

It’s stunning. A large restaurant with teak as its over-riding theme. The walls are covered. The pillars are covered. The tables are large, square 10-seaters in solid teak, paired with benches. There are deep-set windows punctuating the restaurant’s outside walls and these offer nooks for parties of two or three. The solid wood stools add to the subtle but evocative ambiance.

Busaba on Panton Street is unmistakably Thai but it isn’t over themed. There are no extraneous decorations. No pictures of Thai elephants adorn these walls. It’s the acceptable face of minimalist, but the materials, or in this case material, namely teak, speaks for itself. It’s warm chic-rustic and charming.

But a reviewer cannot live by wall treatments alone. Would the food realise what the décor had promised? Well, in a nutshell, yes it did. I was expecting a rather fast-foodie approach which is the result of my not always justified attitude to chain restaurants. A look at this particular restaurant had persuaded me that Busaba could offer a surprise or two. In fact it offered more than that. Chef Krit Sangsida, known as Jude, is the creator of the menu here.

It offers a good number of celebrated Thai dishes along with some innovations. We ordered the ubiquitous Pad Thai - rice noodle with prawn, dried shrimp, tofu, egg, peanut, beansprout and lime with a garnish of crushed peanuts. A good solid example of its genre.

Green chicken curry is another standard but this one packed a punch. The chilli-induced heat was appropriately evident but the aromatics still shone, giving a flavourful light sauce strewn with chunks of meat and the miniature Thai green pea aubergines which resemble capers.

Duck in tamarind sauce with Chinese broccoli was memorable and a must-try on those days when you don’t mind choosing one of the high-end dishes. The duck was cooked to pink and juicy perfection and the char-grilled flavour was unmistakable. The tamarind sauce could more reasonably be described as a delicate dressing, and complemented the meat.

Pandan chicken with garlic and coriander root wrapped in pandan leaf has a spectacular presentation. Pyramids of green and glossy leaf bundles stuffed with some of the best chicken I have tasted. Visually appealing and gastronomically moreish. Nothing bland and flabby here. A signature dish if ever there was one.

Thai calamari with ginger and peppercorn was a bowl of seafood that I would order time and time again. Yes, it is that good. Squid can so easily transform itself into rubber. It demands cooking at a high heat or it steams in its own juices. This example was expertly cooked by chef Sanjeev. A sweet and delicious coating with a slight crunch. It’s a dish to nibble on and linger over.

Coconut rice completed our meal and even this simple staple was served with style. Packed into a lidded bamboo tube it looked every bit like part of a picnic for a day in the Thai jungle. An ethnic and practical serving solution.

Ginger and honey tea, and Pandan leaf tea, served with cashew and coconut cookies concluded our visit. Delicately flavoured and piping hot, these drinks were refreshing palate-cleansers on a warm sticky day. If it had not been for the cityscape outside those windows we could have thought ourselves in a smart eatery in Thailand. Perhaps Busaba is the affordable alternative.

Opening Times
Monday–Thursday 12 noon–11.00pm
Friday–Saturday 12 noon–11.30pm
Sunday 12 noon–10.00pm

London Asian restaurant review: Busaba – Eathai – Panton Street
35 Panton Street, Westminster, London SW1Y 4EA
Phone: 020 7930 0088
email: mail@busaba.com
Visit Busaba here

Leong’s Legend Taiwan restaurant in Bayswater

The restaurant’s name Leong’s Legend is inspired by one of the most popular Chinese novels, The Water Margin, which features 107 heroes who gathered at Leong Mountain to fight a corrupt government during the Song dynasty, a thousand years or so ago. There was the cult 70s TV series called The Water Margin (sometimes called The Rebels of Liang Shang Po) which was set in China, made in Japan, dubbed into English but despite that it held millions of viewers riveted to their TV sets. Lin Chung, played by the handsome Atsuo Nakamura, was the Robin Hood-like lead character. Our Leong’s Legend is, however, found a little nearer home in the buzzy streets of Bayswater.

The restaurant is a vision of dark-wood slatted partitions and low-hung lamps with rattan shades. It is said to be reminiscent of traditional Chinese drinking dens. Quite a bit more charismatic than our equivalent. Murals of the aforementioned good-guys decorate the walls. A rack of martial arts weaponry adds to the ancient Chinese theme and discourages anyone from doing a runner before the bill arrives. The prices are so reasonable here that it’s not a likely scenario, although I’ll mention that a few of the spears seemed to be missing!

The stories of oriental daring-do are fascinating but you’ll visit for the food. We settled ourselves into one of the screened booths and pondered the menu. There was so much that was new. I guarantee that you’ll find dishes here that are scarcely found outside the Leong's Legend Group. (There are a couple of sister restaurants in Chinatown.) Take the opportunity to taste these dishes to expand your epicurean horizons from China across that other water margin to the island of Taiwan.

Not only are the prices here competitive but the portions are substantial. Our neighbours were tucking into the Fried Bread Casket which looked intriguing. We will return to sample that on a future visit. We ordered Legend's Siu Loung Bao as a starter. These were 8 large steamed dumplings with a dipping sauce. Rib-stickingly delicious and of the genre of dim sum with the integral stock bathing the filling. Bite with caution and let that hot broth baste your taste buds.

Kung Po Chicken has long been a favourite. The Leong’s Legend version was rich, glossy, red with whole chillies and vibrant in flavour. It’s a robust dish in every way. The chunks of meat were rustically chopped and large but moist and juicy. An ample scattering of cashew nuts provided crunch. Spectacular and well worth trying if you are a lover of chilli. Hot? Yes, but not overpoweringly so.

Taiwan Most Popular Omelette sounded promising. It’s a dinner-plate sized omelette stuffed with seafood and vegetables. It has a totally different texture from that of the eggy European omelette and was much more hearty. It’s rather glutinous with a slightly crispy edge. Order this to share as it’s more than a light side dish. It delivered filling in every bite.

A celebrated dish here is the Quick Fried Diced Beef with Garlic Slices. The cubes of meat were tender and well seasoned with freshly ground black pepper. The slices of garlic were golden and crisp. A dish to persuade any timid eaters that garlic doesn’t have to be pungent and overwhelming. The cooking method here imparts a full yet mellow garlic flavour.

Sticky Rice with Shredded Pork is a traditional Taiwanese delicacy. It has a comforting texture and is an ideal choice for those who are less skilled at wielding chop sticks. The short-grain rice is indeed sticky and has a unique texture. The large timbale of rice is topped with melting and flavourful pork, slow cooked with mushrooms. It’s an aromatic and memorable dish.

There wasn’t a lot of room left for dessert but we were tempted by the Mango Pudding and Almond Cake. The mango was a sunny mould of pudding with chunks of real fruit. The manager told us that it’s made fresh every day from real fruit. I was expecting the Almond Cake to be, well, a cake. It is in fact another variety of pudding. It’s white and creamy with a distinct almond flavour and comes with a little dish of evaporated milk as garnish. I don’t think it needs it.

Leong’s Legend Taiwan restaurant in Bayswater is the kind of restaurant where one can relax with a degree of privacy. It’s a spot popular with both Europeans and Chinese and that is surely a recommendation. It offers excellent food and value for money.

London Asian restaurant review: Leong’s Legend Bayswater
82 Queensway, Bayswater, London W2 3RL
Tel: 020 7221 2280
Visit Leong’s Legend here

Cocum - Keralan Hampton Court

This amazing newcomer stands just by Hampton Court Bridge on a quiet but classy side road away from the buzzing traffic and hordes of tourists. But how disappointed those tourists will be to learn that they might well have missed visiting a rather good Keralan restaurant. Hampton Court has good transport links so those from nearer than Dubuque Iowa or Tokyo have easy access.

This leafy corner of suburban Surrey is home to well-heeled and discerning residents. They must be pleased to find a restaurant offering food the equal of that of their habitual haunts in central London. Cocum has already cultivated a good number of regulars who appreciate its cuisine and its staff. Some have even brought gifts of plants for the restaurant pots.

Cocum is just two months old but the paint is dry and the chef has evidently settled into his kitchen in fine form. It’s a charming restaurant with a bay window overlooking the street and towards the bridge. Cool spearmint-green tablecloths and South Indian crafts offer a light and summery ambiance but it’s the food that is the star here: the restaurant is even named after the spice which is ubiquitous in Keralan cuisine.

There is so much on this menu that will be unfamiliar to those more used to the regular high-street Indian restaurant. Yes, there are some favourite curries but you’ll be here at Cocum to enjoy the bounty of the Keralan regional cuisine. Produce from both land and sea, and showcasing the evocative coconut.

We started with papadoms and pickles. Nothing unusual about that, one might think. Well, actually, yes. These are not the regulation pickles that one finds in most other Indian restaurants. We were presented with a platter of home-made relishes. These change every couple of weeks so even if you visit often you’ll find different tangy delights to tingle your taste buds. We enjoyed shrimp, aubergine, lime and garlic pickles along with a mint and yoghurt dip, served with thin and crisp papad. This was the first time that either my guest or I could remember clearing the pickle tray.

Dosa is a popular item on South Indian menus. It’s striking to behold and fun to eat. I ordered the Mini Masala Dosai. A paper-thin crispy pancake made from rice and black gram lentil, filled with potato and spices and served with sambar and coconut chutney. It didn’t look very mini but compared to the regular dosa it was starter-sized. The main course version is a stunner and a very economic light meal for under £5.

My companion was intrigued by Medhu Vada. These are soft doughnuts but spiced rather than sweet. They are made from urid lentils, onion, ginger and aromatic curry leaves, served with the traditional fresh coconut chutney. He pronounced them to be delicious and well worth trying. A triumph of texture and taste.

Zan Zi Bar Pub and Restaurant

There are plenty of good restaurants in Central London. Easy transport links and familiar territory, but there are sometimes gems to be found at the far reaches of the tube network. Edgware is the terminus of the Northern Line and that was our destination one hot summer evening.

Zan Zi Bar Pub and Restaurant is worth the ride. Yes, we travelled from West London for the honour of eating there, but there are those who have come from as far afield as Coventry. It seems this establishment has a cult following and a sample or two from the menu will give you the reason why. You’ll get something a lot more interesting than a limp cheese sandwich and a packet of salt and vinegar crisps.

It’s a pub. A bar with plenty of space, light and airy with tables sporting vinyl cloths. Several large TV screens for the sports fans and Bollywood film devotees. The outside offers seating for those who want to bask in the sun of the all-too-short English summer or even indulge in smoking the increasingly sought-after Shisha. You might know it as a hookah or water pipe offering a much more visually appealing smoke than a packet of Marlborough. There is an enclosed courtyard at the back of the pub for those seeking some alfresco dining or for the kids to play in safety while the grown-ups enjoy a cocktail and some food.

It’s a restaurant. The atmosphere is casual and the staff friendly. They are the winners of Customer Excellence Awards 2007/2008/2009. It has its regulars, many of whom are Indians and that’s always a good sign. Both the drinks and the food menus offer favourites and innovation. Don’t let the informal surroundings fool you. You’ll find some of the most robust and striking food here. The owners, Sameer and Sheetal Malik cut no corners. Zan Zi Bar has been their passion for 9 years or so and their hard work has resulted in a truly unique concept - and it works.

Zan Zi Bar has a good selection of non-alcoholic cocktails. I chose the Fresh Lime Soda with salt. (The wine menu has a very decent house red for under £13 a bottle and £4.30 by the 250ml glass.) Clean-tasting and thirst-quenching, and helped down by a large bowl of spiced peanuts. It’s seldom you’ll find a restaurant reviewer mentioning the bits that go with drinks, but these were exceptional. Those over-salted and stale snacks offered as nibbles in lesser establishments have been banished and replaced by a dish that could be addictive. Fresh unsalted peanuts with onion, chillies and spices combined to create a sweet, hot, crunchy introduction to the temptations to follow.

Chicken in an Egg-Roll Wrap is such a popular item here that it is requested even when it’s been taken off the menu. This is a substantial and moreish Indian burrito stuffed with chopped chicken and tangy sauce. Chef J.P. Bhatt presents delicious and inspired dishes and that should be no surprise, as he has worked for India's famed Taj hotel group which has sired so many of London’s best Indian chefs.

Dal Bhajia Chaat is a must-try vegetarian starter. Light and fluffy lentil dumplings bathed in traditional yoghurt and tamarind with a garnish of fresh coriander; but for carnivores the Chicken Tikka on the bone is a sizzling rendition of the Indian restaurant favourite, but a cut above. Succulent meat and tantalising aroma will get the taste buds working. Tandoori King Prawns were juicy and flavourful and indeed king-sized, aromatic with a bite of heat.

Chicken Bhuna has long been one of the most requested dishes at Zan Zi Bar. The meat was tender and the sauce vibrant. Dal Makhni made a rich and creamy side dish. A comfort food in every regard. Just the addition of some freshly made breads completed a memorable meal that could shame some celebrated high-end restaurants.

It’s a neighbourhood bar but it could just as easily be described as a restaurant offering amazing food. A restaurant where everyone knows your name and where the phrase “I’ll have my usual” will find the habitué with a plateful of Punjabi Chole rather than a pint of Guinness. Zan Zi Bar deserves its reputation as a friendly, casual pub with fine food... or is it a lively restaurant with a great bar?

Open 7 days a week.
Monday to Thursday: 12pm - 3pm and 5.30pm - 11pm
Friday: 12pm - 11pm (kitchen closed between 3pm and 6pm)
Saturday: 12pm - 11pm (kitchen open all day)
Sunday: 12pm - 10.30pm (kitchen open all day)

London Asian restaurant review: Zan Zi Bar
113 High Street, Edgware, Middlesex, HA8 7DB
Phone: 020 8952 2986
Email:zanzibaredgware@aol.com
Fax: 020 8952 9150
Visit Zan Zi Bar here

Nipa Thai Restaurant

A couple of decades ago a Thai restaurant was rare. It’s the advent of cheaper long-haul flights and more adventurous eating habits that has allowed this exciting and vibrant cuisine a foothold in London. Its flavours combine the whole available spectrum from sweet to spicy and everything in between.

There are good Thai restaurants all over the capital and these days most high streets have an example. One of the best, however, is neatly tucked away inside the anonymous confines of the Lancaster London hotel at Lancaster Gate. The 1960 facade offers not a hint of the exotic opulence awaiting the diner on the first floor.

It might seem a bit cheeky to walk through those revolving doors into one of the smartest 5-star hotels in London. It is, however, a public restaurant open to passing trade as well as hotel guests. Just march past reception, turn to the left, up the stairs to the right and across the hall. You won’t miss Nipa. It has the most striking and elegant frontage of any restaurant. A vision of intricately carved teak which sets the scene for more of the same inside.

Head chef Ms. Nongyao Thoopchoi was one of the staff, along with Mr. Kaseam Jongpitikrat, who came from Bangkok to open London's Nipa in 1995. She and the other lady chefs of the Nipa kitchen are responsible for the preparation of this vibrant food from traditional recipes, each platter superbly garnished with carved fruit and vegetables. A touch of royal elegance.

Thai prawn crackers with real peppery bite were our nibbles as we perused the menu. You don’t need to be an expert on Thai cuisine. The staff are all Thai and are happy to advise you about the dishes that will best suit your taste. If in doubt then consider one of the set menus. Some dishes are fiery hot but others are more subtle.

The mixed starter platter gave us a selection of different small bites. Por Pia Tod - deep-fried spring rolls with glass noodles and crab meat, prawn-filled Beggars Purses, Tod Man Pla -Thai fish cakes with dipping sauce, and Chicken Satay with cucumber relish and one of the best peanut sauces I have had in ages. Rich and thick and I could eat a bowlful with a spoon. A must-try at Nipa.

The first of our main courses arrived. The crab was a delight: Yum Ma Muang Poo Nim, crispy soft-shell crab with spicy mango salad. The batter was crunchy and more evident than that for, say, tempura but it was light and marvellously seasoned by the green mango, which gave freshness to the dish.

The stir-fried scallops with green asparagus - Nor Mai Fa Rang Phad Hoy Shell was a delicate dish. The texture of the bright vegetables was contrasted with the superbly cooked shellfish. A flavourful sauce bathed both components and was a garnish for the fluffy rice.

Thai Green Chicken Curry - Kaeng Kiew Warn Kai - was both spicy and aromatic. Full of white chicken with a creamy sauce. A typical Thai menu item but done well here. Yes, it’s a standard dish but it’s popular because this authentic Thai Green curry is remarkable, with depth of flavour and unctuous texture. The Nipa curry is doubtless a favourite with its many regular visitors.

Lychees were my dessert of choice as I love that distinctive perfumed taste - cool and a good digestive. My guest ordered the slightly more adventurous, delicious and strikingly red Tab Tim Krob - water-chestnuts coated with tapioca flour in coconut milk and syrup, served in a Martini glass. That has to be the perfect dessert to end a romantic Thai meal.

Nipa is award-winning and it’s easy to see why. There is casual elegance, charm and grace. We might not all be able to afford a trip to Thailand but an evening at the Royal Lancaster offers a few hours of tranquillity and lovely food.

Opening times:
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat:
Lunch: 12:00pm - 2:00pm,
Dinner: 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Sun: 6:30pm - 10:30pm

London Asian restaurant review: Nipa Thai Restaurant
1st Floor, Lancaster London hotel, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY
Phone: 0872 148 2433
Email: nipa@lancasterlondon.com

Chai Bazaar at Chor Bizarre – Teatime treats & traditional temptations

Chai Bazaar at Chor Bizarre was London’s first Indian Tea Bar. Other restaurants serve tea but, take my word for it, tea and its associated snacks at Chai Bazaar are an experience, and one seldom found outside the subcontinent. These days the bar isn’t a physical structure, but rather a menu separate from the restaurant bill of fare.

Chor Bizarre is one of my favourite restaurants in the capital: a favourite of any ethnic persuasion, not just one of my preferred Indian restaurants. What better place to come for afternoon tea? ‘An Indian afternoon tea!!’ I hear my dear reader exclaim. Yes, indeed, and there can be nothing more appropriate than to have teatime inspired by the nation responsible for much of the planet’s leafy beverage. India is the world’s biggest tea producer. The country’s climate, soil and altitude make it ideal for growing a wide range of high-quality teas. It isn’t an indigenous plant - it was introduced to India by the British, who in their typical fashion had stolen it from the Chinese.

Chor Bizarre offers an authentic Indian bazaar setting. Tables and chairs which were once windows and bed heads, carvings and mirrors, tiles and dark wood all contrive to create an atmosphere of Old World charm. The restaurant is less full during the day than in the evening, and provides an oasis of calm.

We perused the tea menu and sought advice from a knowledgeable member of staff. You don’t have to be a tea connoisseur to appreciate the Tea Bar. Choose your snacks and ask what might be best, but do try Masala Chai with its warming and delicate spices. There is a wide variety of Indian teas to choose from here: I think there are about 30 including Darjeeling, Assam, Nilgiri, Kashmiri Kehwa. Your cuppa might even be served in earthenware kullars. These cups are considered disposable in India, but they are not so easily come by in London’s department stores, so the staff at the restaurant prudently hangs on to them.

What would teatime be without something toothsome to accompany the ‘cup that cheers’? Our food arrived on a silver Thali tray rather than being stacked on the typical English three-tier cake stand. This was a striking presentation and gave an agreeable sensation of just having popped over to see a Maharaja for the afternoon. The spread was a magnificent display. Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja and the other Chor Bizarre chefs offer a selection of spicy and aromatic snacks to replicate those found on tea stands in India. Papri chaat, hot pakoras, kathi rolls and naanwiches (sandwiches of naan rather than white sliced) and Indian sweets which are delicious and a delight to behold, are all on the menu. We were plied with samosas and Bombay mix as well as crisp and spicy fried okra, Kurkuri Bhindi, which is a dish to die for.

Bombay Bistro

Acton in West London isn’t a neighbourhood famed for anything much. It’s got good transport links. A short distance from the smart shops of Chiswick and the trendy river front of Richmond. The High Street is en route to either Ealing or Shepherds Bush. Till now Acton’s only claim to fame is that it was my first home.

Nothing much has changed in Acton. The buildings seem a lot smaller and the traffic worse. Not surprising since it’s more than half a century since I visited. No, nothing much has changed - apart from the arrival of a very good Indian bistro. The Bombay Bistro offers a quality of casual dining which is often lacking in your typical London high street. Great food in a comfortable environment. It’s not out to gentrify Acton but merely to help it evolve into a suburb offering a lot more than the banal "Indlish" curries of less adventurous establishments.

Bombay Bistro has one formidable asset and that’s its chef, Bhuwan Bhatt. A look at the menu will be your first introduction to his cuisine and it’s full of innovation. There is so much here that is contemporary and confident as well as being delicious. This restaurant is Bhuwan's dream and he intends to make his mark in the most positive of fashions.

We embarked on our exploration with one of the most delightful starters I have had in a restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. Halloumi cheese stuffed with a sweet fruit filling, fried and served garnished with a mango and yoghurt sauce. It sounded so unlikely a combination that I was bound to try this on behalf of my dear readers. It’s exceptional. Halloumi isn’t a cheese indigenous to India; the obvious candidate would have been the ubiquitous paneer, appropriate for so many traditional recipes. But the choice of halloumi was courageous and masterful. A noteworthy dish in every regard.

Chicken Tikka is found on the menu of the majority of Indian restaurants and that shouldn’t be a surprise. A Tikka is, after all, just a cube of meat. These are more often presented in the “celebrated” masala sauce, but here chef Bhatt has Basil and Garlic Chicken Tikka as a starter. The juicy chicken is coated with a green marinade of fresh basil with a bite of garlic. Light and full of flavour.

Black Cod is becoming more popular in restaurants of every culinary hue, and Bombay Bistro has Black Cod Steak served on a bed of couscous, bejewelled with a fine dice of red and green peppers. Not a dish that one would expect in your regular curry house. Another indication that this is not your regular curry house. A marvellous presentation of moist fish and well-seasoned grains of couscous.

Sweet Potato & Butternut Squash is an exceptional vegetarian dish. The vegetables are complemented by the rich coconut milk perfumed with curry leaves. This and Dal Panchamitra (5 different lentils cooked with garlic and turmeric), along with some naan bread or rice, would make a delicious vegetarian meal. Both dishes had good flavour notes and agreeable texture.

Massala Indian Dining

Cobham, Surrey: a new magnet for those seeking a fine Indian dining experience. One looks at this green and leafy corner of the Home Counties and it doesn’t immediately speak to you of all things exotic and subcontinental. Yes, there are plenty of Indian restaurants in Cobham but we have found one that is exceptional in every regard and is thoroughly deserving of the accolade Fine Dining.

I visit fabulous restaurants of every ethnic persuasion all the time. They each have their own character but they all have that essential common denominator, fine food. The seats might be comfy. The linen might have ironed creases that are sharp enough to carve stone, but the food is the important thing. Massala is the style of restaurant which is attractive, light, welcoming and friendly. The ambiance is contemporary with hints of Indian crafts. Yes, plenty of crisp serviettes but it’s the food that will assure your return visit.

Massala is owned and run by two talented chefs. Sunil Sinha is a chef whose cooking has been described as superb by those in the know. He is especially noted for his seafood dishes such as whole tandoori lobster and whole sea bass. He was trained by the Taj Group who have sired many of the world’s best Indian chefs.

Chef Pradeep Asawa is celebrated for having cooked for HRH Prince Charles and the late Princess Diana on their state tour of India in 1992, and the for late Rajiv Gandhi, Prime Minister of India. Pradeep is evidently well respected in the industry.  Both chefs have a passion for quality ingredients and authentic recipes. They use fresh produce and don’t use any artificial colourings, flavourings or GM foods. All the food is cooked specially to order so you can request a particular dish to be prepared to your taste: a little more heat for this, a little less heat for that (although Laal Maans from Rajasthan should never be ordered mild like Korma). Sunil and Pradeep shun the factory mentality of lesser restaurants which have only their two vats of base sauces. There is variety and subtlety here.

I mention variety and you might glance at the menu and say it’s a bit short. Well, no, dear reader, it isn’t short. Compare this thoughtful and diverse collection with that of a regular high-street Indian restaurant where you might find the usual suspects of Korma, Madras and Vindaloo, the only varieties being chicken or lamb. The sauces would be the same; only the shape of the plate might vary. The Massala menu has individual dishes made to order. They originate from different regions of India and the chefs take trouble to ensure that each one is a faithful representation.

Gilafiseek Lamb from the Punjab is a minced meat kebab starter cooked in the tandoor. It has a glaze of fresh aromatic vegetables. This had robust flavour and was most remarkably moist. The meat glistened with flavourful juice.

Seafood lovers are well-served at Massala. It is, after all, Sunil’s speciality. Try Methi Machchi Tikka from Northern India. These are chunks of fresh salmon marinated in yoghurt and spices and then cooked with fenugreek leaves. The flesh was delicate and opaque with marvellous flavour from both seasonings and the tandoor, which had just singed the edges of the fish.

Samudari Ratan hails from Western India: scallops, mussels and squid perfumed with mustard, garlic and cumin is a speciality from Goa. Jhinga Merunisha, again from Western India, are Jumbo prawns in their shells marinated in yoghurt with saffron, carom seed and cloves, and then grilled. This dish must be a signature dish - don’t miss this one. A striking presentation and amazing flavour and texture.

The main courses at Massala are geographically broad-based. We chose lamb shank cooked in Xacuti Massala which is Goan and has vibrant spicy flavours. Great depth and richness, with meat as tender as you would expect to find in a restaurant of this quality.

Monkfish Malabar from South India is monkfish cooked with coconut and onions and flavoured with tamarind for an agreeable contrast to the sweetness of the other ingredients. This fish is prized for its firmness but it can be dull. Not at Massala - you won’t be disappointed if you order this.

I am not a vegetarian and I have become bored of vegetable dishes in so many Indian restaurants. Heavy sauces with that tell-tale oily residue. The vegetables at Massala are some of the best you will find. They have a lightness and freshness more often found in Indian home cooking than restaurants. They have flavour, crunch and striking colour. Sukhi Meloni Subzi is peas, carrots, broccoli, corn and beans cooked in a delicious sauce with a pinch of asafoetida and a little tamarind. Okra Kumuri is a simple presentation of stir-fried okra with onions and garlic. Outstanding. Any non-meat eaters in your party would be delighted with these two dishes, along with some Tadka Dal and some rice.

Gulab Jamun might be an Indian restaurant staple but it’s a delight when made fresh. It’s a traditional Indian dessert made of curd cheese. They are small dumplings which are finished in rose-flavoured syrup.  Gulab Jamun is often over-sweet but Massala’s are hard to beat for both flavour and texture. If you prefer a pud to make you feel noble then order Gajar Halwa, an Indian carrot pudding topped with cardamom and nuts. Those carrots are one of your 5 a day so enjoy the delicious confection. OK, so now it’s back to power-walking but one should always save space for dessert. It’s a universal law and one to which you will be glad to adhere on every visit to Massala.

Massala is a surprise. I am a Londoner and I don’t tend to stray far from underground stations, red buses and grime. It took effort, although not as much as I had expected, to wander to Cobham. It only took half an hour and it was worth the short trip. It has a catchment zone of the whole of west London and Surrey and deserves to be considered as THE out-of-town restaurant for lovers of real Indian food.  Great prices and unbeatable quality. Two talented chefs for the price of one. It’s going to be an award-winning restaurant. Remember my words.

Opening hours:
Monday – Sunday
Lunch: 12.00 noon – 2.30pm
Dinner: 5.00pm – 23.45pm

Asian restaurant review: Massala Indian Dining
19 Anyards Rd, Cobham, Surrey KT11 2LW
Phone: 01932 865005‎
Visit Massala Indian Dining here

Fire and Stone – Spitalfields

Yes, Pizza is fast food. Well, more accurately it’s fast-ish food. A good pizza has a freshly-made base and an exceptional one has that cooked in a real pizza oven. It’s fast food with a pedigree.

The first pizzas were simple affairs sold by the slice on the streets of Naples. It wasn’t available much outside the environs of that city and didn’t become widely known till after the Second World War when the returning GIs spread the word. As usual the UK followed suit and now there are pizza restaurants and kiosks all over the world.

Heritage meets history with the latest Fire and Stone Pizza restaurant in Old Spitalfields Market. There has been a market on this site since 1638 when Charles I licensed the sale of meat and veg. It was then a rural area near London rather than being in the centre of it. The existing structure was built in 1887 to service a wholesale market. It was subsequently extended and now has new office buildings added to the complex, although it still holds much of its traditional Victorian charm.

Fire and Stone opened on 1st August at this famous site, and has seating for 190 people. It has an airy ambiance as it is separated only by glass walls from the vibrancy of the market. It’s a contemporary restaurant with copper-clad oven on view to the expectant diners. Plenty of dark wood to complement the glowing metal. It’s already a popular spot after only a couple of weeks of trading. A good start when one considers the close proximity of other casual dining restaurants.

Lunchtime finds Fire and Stone filled with office workers and tourists visiting the market. The evening sees groups of friends looking for decent food before an evening of bar-hopping and cinema-going. Its location a stone’s throw from Aldgate East makes it ideal for convivial and surprisingly economic dining.

We started our meal with the Mediterranean Sharing Platter. This was a generous plate of Parma ham, salami, smoked ham, homous, taramasalata, black and green olives, cornichons (small pickled gherkins) and triangles of fresh pita bread. This was a substantial plateful and a bargain at less than £4.00 per person. You’ll need these nibbles while you scan the diverse and lengthy menu.

Fire and Stone is a small chain that offers quality pizza. There is a raft of pizza restaurants around but the goods on offer here are outstanding. There is a long list of exotic toppings but they have not forgotten the classics. You can have the basic Margherita with the three-colour garnish of tomato, basil and mozzarella (said to represent the Italian flag) and then add extras of your choice.

Napoli pizza tempted me. It’s a traditional one, but a simple dish reflects the confidence of the establishment, and there was nothing wrong with this one. Tomato sauce covered with spicy sliced pepperoni, mozzarella cheese and anchovies. The thin base was cooked to perfection – slight crunch around the edge with a firm rather than soggy centre. The topping was authentically Italian, and a sprinkle of semolina still remained under the bottom crust.

Marrakech pizza appealed to my guest. Cumin perfumed the minced lamb, while mozzarella, mint and yoghurt sauce, green olives, raisins and thinly sliced red onion drizzled with chilli oil were the flavourful toppings. This is well worth trying. OK, so it’s not a classic pizza – Fire and Stone offers many that are not, but let us not be food snobs. This restaurant does indeed have a list of the usual suspects, but consider trying some of the more exotic offerings. The aforementioned Marrakech is similar to a traditional Middle Eastern pizza-style dish, lahem bil ajine, but one of the most popular pizzas here is the Peking, with Hoi Sin sauce, shredded aromatic duck, mozzarella and spring onions. Another highly recommended is the London pizza with its nod to the English fried breakfast: tomato sauce, bacon, mozzarella, Cumberland sausage, black pudding and free-range eggs as its crowning glory.

Fire and Stone have reached a compromise between tradition and modernity. They present well-executed pizza made from the best of ingredients. They take pride in their products and that will appeal to the pizza purist. Others will say that the masterfully baked crust should be considered a worthy vehicle for other delicious foods, and those people will be well content with the globe-trotting menu of pizzas inspired by every continent.

Your friends might not be able to agree which topping is the best in house, but all will agree that Fire and Stone do a very fine pizza. I’ll be back for the Peking, or perhaps the New York, or perhaps I’ll make that American Hot.

Indian Zing – the best in the West

We might be wooed into the misconception that all the finest restaurants are to be found uniquely in central London. This particular gem is in the somewhat unlikely environs of Hammersmith. Not hidden in a backstreet but in plain view on King Street, and within an Indian cricket ball’s throw of Ravenscourt Park Underground station. A fleet of bus routes passes the door giving this restaurant a huge catchment zone.

A Tuesday night in troubled financial times found me in a full Indian Zing. Lots of regulars and some who might be first-timers drawn to this neck of the woods after Michael Winner’s glowing review of several weeks past. It’s a light and contemporary restaurant with Indian accents and seating for 82. Even the cutlery adds to the subtle theme, being crafted and wrought in charming subcontinental fashion.

The service here is impeccable. The waiting staff who are attractively uniformed in dark purple and black silk shirts are attentive and knowledgeable about not only the food but also the wines, which are carefully selected to match the dishes. Sample some Indian vintages not found in other restaurants. The Indian wines of Sula Vineyards in Nashik Highlands, above Mumbai, are supplied exclusively by Novum Wine Merchants. These award-winning wines are considered some of the best in India. Sommelier Vincent Gasnier has chosen many of those on offer. Your wine bill at Indian Zing will not make you wince. Sauvignon Blanc, Sula Vineyards, is a New-World style crisp white which weighs in at less than £19.00. Don’t get anxious: a traditionalist can still order a Cobra beer.

Manoj Vasaikar is the chef-patron of Indian Zing and he has an enviable professional pedigree. He has been a chef in some India’s finest hotels including Taj and Oberoi groups and ITC Sheraton. Manoj continued his career with some of London’s most celebrated Indian restaurants such as Chutney Mary and Veeraswamy. That is quite a collection.

Our pappadums and khakara basket with pickle and relish heralded the start of a memorable meal. Rice pappadums and wholewheat crispy flat bread was served with mint and coriander chutney but here with the addition of pomegranate seeds. Carrot, cucumber, tomato and raisin raita made with Greek yoghurt was another on the brass carousel. Chutney of mango with roasted cumin and black pepper was chunky and moreish. You know you have found a winning restaurant when you are driven to wax lyrical even about the condiments!

Vegetable Bhanavla is the Indian Zing take on the ubiquitous onion bhaji. It looks like slices of a delicate meatloaf but there the resemblance ends. This is light and flavourful and much less oily than the regular bhaji, being first baked and then griddled.

Prawn and Aubergine Kharphatla is a stunner. It’s an array of jumbo prawns and sliced aubergine, with caramelised onions, tomato and pickle masala. The seafood was moist and melting with a sauce which was finger-lickingly delicious.

Bhujung Biryani must be a signature dish, although Manoj has contrived to have a whole menu of dishes which would be broadcast as “house speciality”, “chef recommended”, “gold medal”, and “just like the head-waiter’s grandma used to make” in other quality restaurants. This biryani is described as a lighter version of traveller’s biryani, made along the Mumbai express highway – this would definitely be a step up from the food found at Small Chef eateries on British motorways. It’s made with powa (poha) which is a pressed rice. Not to be missed.

Karwari Fish Curry is a seasonal delicacy from the West Coast of India with an unusual flavour of trifala - an ancient ayurvedic compound common to this region. The fresh yellowtail fish for this and the seafood for all the other dishes are chosen with the same care as the wine. That undoubtedly contributes to the reputation of Indian Zing.

Chicken Miravna is a dish made from free -range poultry and is said to be a classic dish from the earliest-settled community of Mumbai. It’s packed with green herbs and spices. The sauce was rich and the meat tender. A unique and historic dish.

Bottle gourd cooked with roasted pumpkin and lentils, tempered with mustard seeds (Dudhee Bhopla and Chana) is a delicious vegetarian dish with both texture and taste. I have not found this in any other restaurant. It’s sustaining and hearty enough for even committed meat eaters.

I was expecting something special and that’s just what I got. Manoj Vasaikar should be proud of a restaurant that offers guests a calming ambiance and some of the best Indian food you’ll find this side of the Arabian Sea. He has culinary vision and courage. Indian Zing is great value for money for such high standards and attention to detail.

BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND:
INDIAN ZING ANNOUNCES A PROGRAMME OF FIESTAS FOR 2010

Mango Lounge – Windsor

food, not just any Indian food but the most delicious, the most innovative. The Mango Lounge has made its mark over the last couple of years and has won several awards including The Windsor Express 2009 Restaurant of the Year.

The Mango Lounge is one of the new breed of stylish and contemporary Asian restaurants which rely on quality of dishes and elegant ambiance to attract the diner. The attention to detail here is evident from the second you arrive. The decor is thoughtful with accents of tasteful Indian crafts. 

The Mango Lounge menu is the work of Head Chef Ashwani Kumar and his team, with support from celebrated TV cook, author and former restaurateur, Mridula Baljekar. This is refined Indian cuisine, reflecting dishes from several regions of the subcontinent. Ashwani has worked in renowned kitchens such as that of The Cinnamon Club in Westminster, one of the most respected Indian Fusion restaurants in Europe. He has introduced a degree of culinary sophistication which is almost unheard of outside the capital.

A chef with such a pedigree offers “chef’s recommendations” which were always going to be worth trying. We sampled the striking Tiger Prawn Martini. I had expected this to be a prawn cocktail in a martini glass. The reality was somewhat more impressive. A shot glass was layered with a selection of contrasting colours of chutneys. The tiger prawn had a crunchy rice coating and was moist and tender with no hint of grease from the deep-frying. The martini element was indeed a dash of real martini and married very well with the other flavours.

Scallops are notoriously tricky to cook. That is to say they are easy to cook but are unforgiving. A second or two too long in the pan and the delicate flesh is rendered the consistency of a pallid hockey puck. Samundri Moti was a great showcase for the scallops. They were seared to delicate tenderness and were presented on a mound of coriander and green pea mash. Attractive and vibrant.

Chicken Tikka Masala is considered to be Britain’s national dish. Chef Kumar offers a Trio of Chicken Tikka which has little in common with the dry and unappetizing articles so often served in regular high-street eateries. Each morsel of succulent meat had its own distinct marinade. A sizzling platter of aromatic and delicious chunks.

Mango Lounge main dishes are an inspired and diverse collection not often seen in Indian restaurants. The names take the diner on a culinary journey across the subcontinent, from Murgh Hydrabadi to Delhi Style Chicken, which is another of the chef’s recommendations. This is a dish of pieces of chicken cooked in a tandoor and then simmered in a tomato-based sauce perfumed with fenugreek. It’s subtle and moreish and once tried will be a dish you’ll be tempted to order time and time again. Nothing wrong with that, although you would miss out on some other marvellous tastes.

We were anxious to try chef Ashwani’s award-winning dish of Lal Maas. This is a rich and flavourful dish of lamb originating in western India. It’s marked with three red chillies on the Mango Lounge menu, denoting fiery heat. It was with a degree of trepidation that I approached the first forkful. I once had a nasty experience with a vindaloo and vowed to have no more dealings with food carrying a warning. I had no need to be anxious. There was heat in this dish but it was tempered with depth of flavour. Morsels of lamb are first marinated in yoghurt and spices and then cooked with chillies, cumin and coriander. The resulting meat and sauce has character and is quite rightly considered a signature dish.

The meal had been copious and memorable, and a soupçon of something sweet made a contrasting end. The dessert list here is a cut above its competitors, if indeed there are any in this area. Cardamom Warm Spiced Chocolate Mousse, and Ginger and Cinnamon Kulfi were more inspiring than the usual fare of gulab jamun, although that’s one of my favourite of Indian sweetmeats. My guest chose the Coconut and Lime Brulée which has had a good press. He was not disappointed. I chose the Ginger and Lime Sorbet as a palate-cleanser and refreshing cooler. It was tangy, exotic and delicious. A light must-try for those who have not managed to restrain themselves from the tempting previous courses.

The Mango Lounge has earned a reputation for quality. It’s an attractive restaurant which plies its visitors with award-winning dishes. You won’t return here because of the certificates or medals, but because those dishes are tasty, the staff attentive and the prices reasonable. It’s no surprise that this restaurant enjoys regular clients who appreciate the best of contemporary Indian cuisine.

Zeen – Flavour of India

Zeenat Harnal began work in the hospitality industry in 1980 as a management trainee within the Taj Group of Hotels in India. This is a prestigious chain which has given the world some of the most enthusiastic and talented managers and chefs. Zeenat moved from Mumbai to Bangalore where she took up a post of banqueting manager.

In 1988, she relocated to the UK as Operations Director of Noon Products, that company being owned by her father, Sir Gulam Noon. There she met Nizar Challawala, and in April 2008, Zeenat and Nizar became business partners and embarked on their own venture, a restaurant called Zeen in London’s Drummond Street.

It’s true that Drummond Street isn’t as celebrated as Brick Lane or Southall as a hub of Asian culinary culture but it has enjoyed a steady flow of visitors for decades. It’s located just a stone’s throw from Euston station and an even shorter toss from Euston Square Underground station. It’s tucked away just a block or so back from the main thoroughfare of the Euston Road but it’s a well-trodden path for those looking for good Indian food or a box of sweets from one of Drummond Street’s several immaculate and enticing sweetshops.

Zeen has a discreet door at street level. The guest is lead down a flight of stairs to a stylish and striking restaurant. This has a hint of tasteful retro with thoughtfully chosen seats in orange leather, dark wood tables, granite floors, open kitchen and low-hung lamps. The attention to detail has even extended to choice of glass jugs and salt and pepper shakers. Contemporary with an air of international quality.

We took our seats and perused the menu – a combination of comfortable old favourites and innovation. OK, to tell the truth there is more here that reflects the taste of discerning diners. It’s a collection to encourage those who have only ventured as far as Chicken Tikka Masala and an onion bhaji to try something different. It’s a menu that suggests a high-end restaurant in what is now one of the food capitals of the world.

My starter of Dahi Batata Puri was a substantial plate of delicate fried puffed bread stuffed with mashed potato, with its traditional garnish of yoghurt and tamarind. It’s the style of street food that is becoming more common as restaurant fare these days. My guest ordered Jheenga Achari which were marinated jumbo prawns cooked in a tandoor. This was worthy of any of Zeen's more celebrated rivals, and good enough to be a signature dish here.

If one is in doubt then it could be worth settling on the Chef’s Specials. These often showcase the expertise and passion of the chef, and at Zeen they have a remarkable selection of show-stoppers. Tandoori Pomfret is well worth trying. Pomfret must be the most popular of Indian fish but seldom seen on a supermarket fishmonger’s slab. Duck Jalfrezi is another of those fusion dishes appearing on up-market menus. Duck is not so often seen in India but it’s a meat which is well suited to Indian spices and cooking techniques. It still seems luxurious and a bit of a treat but at only £11.95 it’s a dish you’ll enjoy time and time again.

A must-try dessert here is the Rose Petal ice cream. This is a vision of pink loveliness with a delicate flavour that I’d liken to Turkish Delight. Attractive and even more delicious. The Indian Petit Four made a marvellously naughty end to our meal. Cubes of sweetmeats in all their glorious, teeth-aching splendour. Four varieties which made an indulgent and exotic conclusion to our evening.

Zeen is a restaurant which would not look out of place nestled in a smart hotel. The ambiance is charming, its location is central and the menu is enticing. The prices are, however, amazing. These have got to be some of the most reasonable prices around. If Zeen has quality food as its priority then continued success is assured.

Opening Hours:
Mon - Fri: 12 Noon to 3pm and 5:30pm to 11:30pm
Sat: 12 Noon to 3pm and 6pm to 11:30pm
Sun: Closed

Chor Bizarre

Chor Bizarre - Mayfair's most striking Indian dining spot - is a legend, at least with those who have crossed the threshold even once. It is a little corner of real India. My guest, an Indian lady with impeccable taste in both food and decor, remarked that it was truly a replica of a corner of Chor Bazaar in her home town of Mumbai, where one could unearth dusty and hidden treasures. Well, Chor Bizarre is mercifully dust-free and the treasures are shown off to great advantage for the pleasure of diners. It should be noted (to the great joy of many) that those artefacts and objets d’art could be going home with you at the end of the meal – make your waiter an offer he can’t refuse.

This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, red velvet, mirror, old prints, carved screens and tables - yes, I know, dear reader, they are handy in a restaurant. The tables at Chor Bizarre are somewhat different from the norm and they are also different one from another. Carved stone legs support a white marble top here, an ornate grilled window has been transformed into a table for two over there, and the Indian four-poster bed seats a larger group. The concept of mis-match.... Hang on! What was that about a bed? Yes, a glorious big bed provides space under a canopy. The bed theme is found elsewhere with intricate metal and wood bed-heads providing backrests to banquettes. The chairs are an eclectic mix of upholstered classics and masterfully turned ethnics, as well as a red two-seat sofa.

It’s a restaurant with only 80 covers but its floor plan provides for a few cosy nooks and corners. There is a Kashmir-inspired booth which would encourage any visitor to linger rather than head for the Tube. That aforementioned Underground station is Green Park just a few yards from Albemarle Street. It’s Mayfair in all its up-swept glory, although Chor Bizarre offers charming substance rather than glitz.

Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja is a charismatic figure whose enthusiasm for his restaurant and its food is infectious. He trained in Mumbai at the same catering college that has produced so many of London’s greatest Indian chefs and food writers. He draws his inspiration for his truly unique menu from his native Delhi as well as Kashmir and other regions. Chor Bizarre is the only restaurant outside the Kashmir Valley that has access to the secrets of the ‘Wazwan’ – the legendary ceremonial feast of 36 courses. One does, however, have the impression that Chef Ahuja could present his guests with dry toast and it would contrive to be the most vibrant scrap of bread you would ever encounter.

Chor Bizarre's menu offers some authentic street-fare, like the samosas, chaat and pakoras that have been a draw in Delhi's street markets for 700 years or so. Anything that has endured for that long was bound to be worth trying while we perused our other courses. Aloo Tikki Chaat encapsulates all that is enticing about street food. It’s soft, and tangy with tamarind and mint. Purani Dilli ki Papri Chaat is another casual dining delight, but the memorable snack was the outstanding Prawn Tak-a Tak. The dish is named for the sound of the slice on the griddle as it chops the meats. This form of cooking hails from the Punjab, the spices were South Indian, and the flavourful Missi Roti bread is from the North. A famous recently-departed TV chef would have described this dish as ‘India on a plate.’

We started our exploration of this tempting menu with a selection of Tandoori-baked goods. The Sampler offered us Sufiyani Salmon – flavoured with cumin and dill, Adraki Chaampen – lamb chops marinated in fresh ginger and spices, and Gazab ka Tikka – a restaurant special of marinaded chicken cooked with cream, mild and aromatic. An introduction to the quality of the food here: even the more common dishes exemplify the best of their genre.

The vegetarian main course introduced me to Kurkuri Bhindi. This should be a signature dish. It was a crunchy and gloriously tongue-tingling bowl of crisp fried okra seasoned with mango and chilli powder. This made a spicy foil for the creamy Dal Makhni – always a favourite with its comforting texture. These black lentils are simmered overnight in the cooling tandoor.

One of the features of Delhi cooking is its reliance on meat, but Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja has chosen to include poultry and lamb dishes from other regions as well. Chor Bizarre has Keralan Chicken Stew and Chicken Chettinad amongst others, and we enjoyed our Kashmiri Rogan Josh. This lamb shank was meltingly tender with a rich sauce aromatic with cardamom and cloves. Just some steamed basmati rice was all that was needed to complete the meal. Charles Metcalfe has paired wines with the menu, so you are sure to find something that lays the myth that ‘you can’t drink wine with Indian food.’

Chor Bizarre has hosted and catered for many high-end events such as an Indian Evening at the Cannes International Film Festival; an exclusive café at the Georgian Restaurant at Harrods; a Tea Promotion at the Ritz, Paris. Chor Bizarre is home to London’s first truly authentic Indian Tea Bar ‘Chai Bazaar’ (nifty name), which gives its visitors afternoons of tranquillity as well as 30 or so teas from the subcontinent, along with a High Tea platter. More on that in the summer.

I am lucky enough to be able to visit fine restaurants all over the capital. They vary in style and cuisine but the best ones manage to transport the diner to a place away from their regular lives. An ambiance of opulence, a hint of Zen tranquillity or a glimpse of centuries past can provide much-needed distraction. Chor Bizarre is a unique portal, a gem in an already illustrious crown. There is much to discover, and it demands several visits. The literal translation of Chor Bazaar is ‘Thieves Market’. You might have your heart stolen away here, but you will in turn be stealing several hours of exotic bliss and unbeatable food.

The Cinnamon Club

That first day was a baptism of fire in every sense. Vivek surmounted all odds (including a truly dumb waiter) to present the first of the Cinnamon Club’s many triumphs. That night saw the launch of what was considered by many to be the first “cool” Indian restaurant in London. It has undoubtedly helped to raise the bar on expectations, and on quality of food and service in Indian restaurants.
 

A soupçon of marble, the shimmer of leaded glass, tan leather and suede, high-backed banquette and dark wood contrive to offer the guest a haven from the rigours of Westminster. Those clients number amongst them the powerful and the posers, the celebrated and the celebrating, and anyone who wants a unique and thoroughly engaging culinary experience. Think fine French dining with an Indian vibrancy. An unbeatable marriage when those two elements are thoughtfully combined.

The restaurant is famed for its game. It’s unlikely that you would have come across much of that in your standard, or even high-end Indian eatery, but Executive Chef Vivek Singh says that “Offering game on the menu gives us a point of difference and immediately sets us apart from other kitchens, and so we started using it on our menus. But the real reason that I like to experiment so much with game in our restaurants is that in India, despite our rich heritage and tradition of cooking with game, we’ve lost all those recipes because of a complete ban on any type of hunting. It’s been like this since 1947.” His emphasis on fresh and seasonal ingredients allows for a frequently changing bill of fare. Every visit will offer you new delights prepared by Vivek and Head Chef Hari Nagaraj.

The venison at the Cinnamon Club is the best you will find in any restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. The meat is tender and the spices are subtle and aromatic. Roast saddle of ‘Oisin’ red deer with pickling spice and Bengali Beetroot Crush could be on the menu and if it is I’d advise you to take advantage.

Rabbit is an often overlooked meat and it’s a pity. It’s a white, free-range meat with a mild but distinctive flavour. Hunter’s Style Rabbit Tikka with dill and mustard and hot garlic chutney could entice you to try bunny for the first time. You won’t be disappointed. Crisp Zucchini (Courgette) Flowers with spiced vegetables and slow-cooked marrow is meltingly light and delicious and the choice of those who would rather not eat meat.

Fish and seafood are here in abundance. Norwegian King Crab and tamarind salad, Char-grilled Monkfish, Char-grilled Halibut with green pea and potato crush and yoghurt ‘Kadhi’, and Tandoori King Prawns with coconut malai curry might find their way to your dinner-plate.

The dessert list is surprisingly long. Puds are not a strong suit at most Indian restaurants and that’s a shame. Indian home cooks prepare wonderfully sweet and perfumed dishes. Buffalo milk ‘Kulfi ’ with green cardamom and pistachio is a classic but the Green Apple Sorbet is remarkable. There are lots to choose from so you might want to save some space and enjoy the Tasting Plate of assorted desserts. It’s a selection for two people and it’s one to linger over.

The Cinnamon Club can boast 27 pages of wines and cocktails. It’s another indication of its pedigree. No, not just the number of wines listed but the quality of the wines. The sommelier here is worth his weight in gold and that thought led me seamlessly to order a cocktail called Fool's Gold, described as complex and clean: cardamom, Gabriel Boudier saffron gin and a sprinkle of edible gold leaf. This should be the restaurant’s signature cocktail, offering the glitz of a big international city combined with a waft of exotic spice. Perhaps that’s the best analogy of the restaurant itself: a harmonious mix of the best of East and West.

This restaurant has a loyal following of discerning regulars. It has received plaudits and gongs and it would seem impossible to find fault. I am not an expert on Indian food so I can’t suggest that a dish has its origins in a particular far-flung region of the subcontinent. I can’t compare the charms of a recipe here to those of my grandmother’s food in Agra, but I can state that the food here is amongst the best that you’ll find in either Asia or Europe. Your visit is sure to be memorable. Mine was.

The Cinnamon Club has its own cinema. It’s free and seats are available on a first-come first-served basis. Call for ‘forthcoming attractions’.

Opening Times
Breakfast weekdays 7.30am - 9.30am
Lunch Mon - Sat 12.00pm - 2.45pm
Dinner Mon - Sat 6.00pm - 10.45pm

Library Bar weekdays 11.00am - 11.45pm
Cinnamon Club Bar Mon - Sat 6.00pm -11.45pm

Masala Zone Fulham

The very first Masala Zone restaurant was the Soho branch which opened in 2000. There are now 7 Masala Zones in London with more to follow. They seem to fill a long-felt gastronomic want for a good-value contemporary Indian restaurant with authentic food and unique ambiance. Masala Zone provides that, with each of its restaurants taking a different cultural and artistic theme.

The Fulham Broadway branch, the newest in the chain, is just a few yards away from Fulham Broadway Underground station and its attendant bustling shopping mall. Masala Zone has a modern and welcoming entrance which leads into a deceptively large restaurant. There is a lower dining area at the rear, as well as a private dining room which can be partitioned with sliding screens. The contemporary furnishings are contrasted by canvases said to be painted in the style of the frescoes from the grand mansions in Shekawati, Rajasthan. When I say canvases you’ll be thinking, dear reader, of pictures hung on the walls. No, these are full murals that cover the walls – striking, exotic but in keeping with the modern ethos of the restaurant.

We were there to try the Street Food. Not a selection of exotic hot dogs. Not pizza with Chicken Tikka topping, and not even chips with curry sauce. This is as near as you’ll get to subcontinental fast food without investing in a ticket to Mumbai. In fact, don’t even think of these dishes as fast food: consider them more as traditional foods more usually cooked at roadside halts and on small stalls in city streets. Popular food and it’s popular for a reason.

The Street Food menu offers a different style of dining. This is convivial, casual and varied. Ideal for small groups as you’ll have the chance to sample a wider range of dishes. I had expected them to be small snacks but they are surprisingly substantial. We ordered four between two of us and that constituted a full meal.

Bhel is a favourite with me when eating at friends’ homes. It’s a fresh-tasting dish with texture. Tangy, crunchy salad with puffed rice, delicate sev (crunchy strands made from chickpea flour), vegetables, peanuts and chutneys.

Sev Puri are wholewheat puffy biscuits topped with spiced mashed potatoes and three fresh chutneys. The chutneys give real flavour and bite.

Dahi Puri are puffed hollow thin breads filled with chickpeas, mashed potatoes and garnished with yoghurt and chutneys.

Gol Guppa are small lentil- and tamarind-stuffed wholewheat puri. They are the most fun to eat. Just fill them with the spicy tamarind dressing and pop them, whole, into your mouth.

Pao Bhaji was introduced to a fascinated TV audience by Anthony Bourdain. He is a celebrated American food writer and restaurateur. He enjoyed these little veggie burgers so much when visiting India that he ate several at a sitting and professed them to be better than American fast foods. It’s spicy mashed potatoes and vegetables served with warm bread.

Aloo Tikki Chaat is another personal favourite. Spiced mashed potato cakes with yoghurt and chutney is a real comfort dish.

Chana Dabalroti is a flavourful chickpea curry with lotus root and toasted bread – a famous Sindhi snack.

Samosas are ubiquitous in Indian restaurants all over the world but Masala Zone offers a choice of curried chickpeas, chicken or vegetable fillings. The presentation is a bit different, having the samosas split and garnished with yoghurt and tamarind. The pastry was authentic samosa dough rather than the too-often encountered philo pastry.

Shikampuri Kebab are minced lamb patties stuffed with herbs, and the choice for those who must have their meat fix.

It seems that the original Masala Zone in Soho had a bit of a bad press on first opening. Those days are gone and the chain now has a good reputation and a more considered menu which reflects the desire of customers for freshness, flavour and authenticity. I am impressed by the Fulham restaurant which offered good food at reasonable prices, an attractive and comfy environment and service which was fast and attentive. The staff had evident passion for the food and were knowledgeable and enthusiastic. A visit to another branch to try Masala Zone’s Thali selection is definitely on the cards.

Soseki Japanese Restaurant

What is a Soseki? It is a who and he was one of Japan's favourite novelists, Natsume Soseki. He lived in London over a hundred years ago, and in the two years he was here he had plenty of time to miss the taste, sight and sound of home.

Soseki offers an authentic “sight” of Japan in the most magnificently striking fashion. It truly does encapsulate all that we would expect of the Japan of a couple of centuries past. The ground floor entrance might be contemporary and anonymous but as one ascends the single flight of stairs one is wafted to another world which couldn’t be further away from the glass and steel of the Gherkin which overlooks it.

The bar is the first truly Japanese element one encounters. It has an impressive wall of bottles and a strikingly low seating area. This isn’t a high-stool-swivelling night-clubby drinking hole. It’s tasteful and charming and introduces one to the still more stunning restaurant.

Soseki have avoided mass-produced beers and wines. They have developed a considerable range of "pure rice" junmai sake, some Japanese rice beers (it's the only restaurant in the UK serving Koshihikari Echigo rice beer and Hitachino red rice ale), and rice shochu. The wines have been selected specifically to enhance the food rather than overpowering the delicate flavours.

This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, tatami mats and kimono fabrics. There are intricate wooden shutters and painted ceiling panels. I wouldn’t, however, describe Soseki as “themed”; that word denotes a contrived style. There is nothing that seems artificial here. It’s more transported than themed. More engaging than engineered. This is the real thing and Natsume Soseki would have felt quite at home.

We were shown to our dining cabin. Yes, indeed, a small raised room at the end of the restaurant. There are two compartments inside this cosy and intimate space. The first holds half a dozen guests and the second was our nest for two for the evening.  A calm vantage point to watch the sushi preparation area and our fellow diners. Many of those guests were themselves Japanese: ex-patriots are a reassuring sign when one is looking for authenticity of any ethnic cuisine.

We settled ourselves in our cocoon of a booth and perused the bill of fare. The menu at Soseki is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of 'kaiseki-kappo' or Japan’s haute cuisine. This fashion of cooking originated in celebrated restaurants in 19th century Osaka. But unlike European haute cuisine, the Japanese rely solely on light and fresh ingredients and outstanding presentation. No heavy and cream-laden sauces here.

Perhaps it’s not so much a menu as a suggestion of courses of different cooking styles. The main ingredients are what’s best that day. The finest quality fish from sustainable sources. Soseki has received numerous awards including the prestigious Green Apple Award for the Environment, and the RSPCA Award for Animal Welfare. You can enjoy the best south-coast seafood without guilt. The use of seasonal fruit and vegetables ensures that the dishes change often. One could visit frequently and find new culinary creations to tempt.

Sakizuke appetizer was a confection of quail, both egg and flesh. A punch of chilli heat was unexpected but delicious. The shimmer of gold leaf added to the impression of opulence and held great promise for the rest of the meal.

Wan Mono Soup served in a lidded lacquered bowl had great flavour. Sashimi was a collection of raw fish and in this case salmon, yellowtail, sea bass and sole. A simple dish which relies on quality for its success.

Mushimono will be your steamed dish and this evening it was savoury custard. This was a triumph of texture and subtle taste. Served in a lidded ceramic pot resembling a small boulder - thoughtful and amusing.

Yakimono, a grilled dish, was tender slices of lamb with aubergine, asparagus and edamame beans. You’ll not find better lamb than this: still pink and juicy and with plenty of flavour from the flame. Memorable.

Itsu – Notting Hill Gate

I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy the experience. For me, it’s all about the food: a themed restaurant makes me suspicious. Why is this diner being distracted? Something wrong in the kitchen? Iffy ingredients, perhaps?

Yes, Itsu is very definitely themed. It has moving food. Revolving dishes. No, the waiters don’t spin plates for the amusement of the guests, there is a conveyor belt which carries food past the assembled and seated company. There are still waiting staff who will escort you to your seat at either kitchen carousel or comfy banquette. Those same Itsu employees will take your drinks order, explain the method of food selection, and they will whisk away the empties.

This turned out to be one of the most laid-back and chilled lunchtimes I have spent in a long while. I now realise why this style of dining really works. It’s the ideal spot for lone lunchers – those who have their dietary horizons set somewhat higher than a curly sandwich or a sugar-laden muffin. I have never felt comfortable eating alone and I know many others who have the same inhibition. Itsu provides an environment of anonymity. One can find a place at the raised kitchen carousel, watch the food preparation for diversion and even engage in witty conversation with the black-clad chefs, who are more than happy to customise your selection with a little extra ginger, a ring or two of additional chilli. There is a first-floor dining room which has a more formal but quirky atmosphere. Armchairs, mirrors and a goat’s head all help to make this a sought-after venue for those who want to enjoy Itsu food in a sophisticated environment.

I have said that the food is, for me, the most important part of any restaurant visit. Itsu did not disappoint. This is quality food and the presentation is faultless. It doesn’t come fresher or faster than this. One sees the chefs chop and plate the dishes. They are placed on the moving belt and all you need to do is make your choice from a wide range of fish, meat and vegetable offerings.

Perhaps those dishes could be more accurately described as plates, for that’s just what they are: saucer-sized plates with coloured rims which indicate the cost of that item. The food meanders by with the saucers balanced on name-emblazoned pedestals. Chop-sticks, serviettes, spoons, wasabe and soy sauce are all to hand, so nothing more to do than grab the food and enjoy.

That food is fresh, well-flavoured and delicious. Visit with a friend and you’ll be able to share many of the dishes. My guest chose to start his meal with something other than the conveyor-belt fare. Yes, there is a selection of hot favourites, like tempura. Itsu has a “famous” Chicken and Coconut Soup. It’s the colour of peanut butter but a rich and warming flavour which is truly quite outstanding. A great start to a meal on those days when the sun refuses to put in an appearance. There is also the traditional Miso Soup for less than £2.00 for a serving.

One of the best value plates here is the Fine Green Bean and Kombu Roll. Once again they didn’t breach the £2.00 barrier. These two hearty rounds of rice and vegetables were attractive and delicious and you would walk away pounds poorer if you ordered them in any other Japanese restaurant. These were one of the bargain white-rim options.

We meandered through half a dozen or so plates of various styles of rice, fish and vegetable confections. Those passing dishes are enticing. The Salmon Sushi was fresh and substantial. The Crab California Maki Roll is well-worth trying; but the stars of the carousel were the two Vietnamese dishes. These were both striking to behold and generous of filling. The Crystal Roll with Fresh Crab was delicate and light. The Crystal Roll with Roast Duck should be a signature dish: the meat was cooked and shredded and packed along with vegetables to present a winning choice.

You might want a pud after sampling the savouries, and Itsu offers some non-Japanese sweets. My guest selected Seasonal Fruit on White Chocolate Yoghurt. The red berries were contrasted against snowy drifts, an idea which I’ll shortly be stealing. A crème brulée had my name on it. It might not be Japanese and at under £3.00 it was great value, but it was also one of the best executed I’d encountered in years . Specks of vanilla bean and a creamy texture were topped with the traditional crunchy sugar crust. I’ll grab that again on future visits.

Itsu ticks so many boxes: quality of food, thoughtfully sourced fish from sustainable stocks, value for money, and a unique ambiance. I might have arrived with a few cynical thoughts, but I left a convert.

Restaurant opening times:
Mon - Thurs:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm
Fri:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 11pm
Sat: 12 noon to 11pm
Sun & Bank Holidays: 12 noon to 9pm

Inamo Techno Restaurant

Wardour Street is celebrated as one of London’s night-owl alleys. Its selection of clubs and eateries are legendary so it’s no surprise that it also hosts one of the world’s few computerised restaurants. No, a robot doesn’t make the food and each table isn’t supplied with a microwave. Your table is, however, equipped with an interactive menu, ordering system, webcam of the chefs (that’s how you know they are not robots), and computer games.

This all sounds rather jolly to the prospective diner but it isn’t exactly music, computer generated or otherwise, to the ears of an ageing restaurant reviewer. Call me cynical, but it starts alarm bells. For what is all this technology compensating? Are these interactive tabletops merely a distraction from food that would likely be over-priced and under-done? Would our meal be foil-wrapped or reconstituted, vitamin-enriched space pouches? Only time would tell.

Inamo is a small restaurant with a basement bar. It already has a reputation for innovation as the passers-by confirmed. In fact they didn’t pass by. They stopped and whipped out the cameras. That’s gotta be a first. Will we diners find our visages on the front of the Osaka Daily Worker?

It’s a restaurant with the ambience of a nightclub. We arrived at 6pm and the place was already half full so it also appeals, evidently, to office workers and tourists in the know. The dining area is furnished with the intriguing tables, which at first glance seem quite ordinary. On further inspection one notices that the colourful tablecloths are projected from what look like industrial ventilators on the ceiling. A taste of what was in store.

We settled ourselves at our table, or should we call it a terminal? We were introduced to the workings of the interactive table/waiter/menu/gaming console/taxi rank and then we were left to fiddle. Yes, that’s what one does for a while. A tap here, a delete there and we were ready to tailor our evening. Perhaps a change of ambience. A delicate, pale blue Japanese motif seemed in order. My companion and I then each ordered our dishes from our independent menus. It’s possible to hail a 3-dimensional waiter if the computer-illiterate among you start to panic. But the prospect of the food at Inamo was causing me more panic than the over-sized mouse pad.

In truth I had no need to worry. Navishen Mudaly (ex Zuma, Indo-Jin, and Prism) is the head chef at Inamo. He is considered by some to be one of the country's top Oriental fusion chefs. Yes, it’s undoubtedly a themed restaurant but thankfully the quality of food has not been a victim. The dishes not only looked superb, they tasted authentic and would not have been out of place in a restaurant with linen.  The only thing that seemed to cause a bit of confusion with guests was the large, round, white, plastic disc. Was it a plate or a place mat? Some Brazilian diners decanted food onto this, whilst other visitors ate directly from the serving dishes. Not sure if there is yet an established etiquette for cyber-service.

Our food arrived just a few interactive games later. Thai Beef Salad was as good as I have had in even the best Thai restaurants in London. It was amazingly good value being only £8.00 for a generous plateful of tender and flavourful meat served with a tangy chilli som tam dressing. This should be a signature dish.

Then there were:
Seared Scallops, £6.75, thinly sliced with a yuzu and wasabi dressing. These were sweet and cooked to opaque perfection.

Unagi Nigiri,  £5.75, 3 pieces of eel nigiri sushi was my favourite of all the small dishes. I love eel and this particular dish presents it at its rich best. Simple with the traditional wasabi and ginger.

Baby Crispy Prawns,  £7.00, lightly battered, served with a Thai mango relish was the favourite dish of my companion and our waiter. The presentation was attractive and the seafood was moreish. Crunchy coating with no excess oil.

Salmon and Avocado Ceviche,  £6.50, diced salmon and avocado in a marinated citrus and chilli salad was light and refreshing. A lovely dish for a hot summer evening.

I am not a sake connoisseur but I’ll choose that rather than wine when eating Japanese or even Pan-Asian food. I ordered Takara ginjo shin which is one of the several sakes served hot. I used to think that all sake was designed to be served that way but the majority of restaurants now have a good selection of both hot and cold. I would still suggest you try the warmed version. Takara ginjo shin is well worth experiencing with sushi of any kind.

Inamo is a surprisingly good restaurant. I would go there even if there was a breakdown in cyber space. It’s a fascinating eatery but it’s not relying on novelty to encourage business. We noticed regulars here in a part of London which has a wealth of choice. It’s doing well and will continue to do so as long as the quality of food does not diminish.

Opening Times:
Mon-Thu 12pm - 11.30pm
Fri-Sat 12pm - 12am
Sun 12pm - 10.30pm

Brasserie One... and more

Would I like to write an article about the food at the Institution of Civil Engineers? Well, I have had some strange requests during the course of my writing career and this one was right up there with such projects as a review of an empty binder and a very expensive saucepan lid.

What do civil engineers eat? I guessed they would be drinking builders’ tea but the food element was not so easy to imagine. Sports stadium stew? Multi-storey car-park crab cakes? No, I just was not getting a picture of anything other than a portakabin of dusty donkey-jacketed, hard-hatted, theodolite-wielding blokes.

Brasserie One is indeed housed inside, on the lower floor of the Institution of Civil Engineers, but that building is as far away from a portakabin as you could get. It’s typical of the imposing grey stone buildings of Westminster. Solid with steps and brass plaques. The entrance hall is an exercise in neo-classical architecture and art. It was built between 1910 and 1913 as the result of an architectural competition won by James Miller, RSA. Sweeping stairs, oil paintings and heavy wood polished to glowing warmth. The Institution is part of the Film London Partnership and has been used as a London film location for various productions.

We found our way to the cloakroom and deposited our coats. Still no donkey jackets but, rather, lots of men in suits. Off to the brasserie. A contemporary contrast to the grand public spaces. This was light and modern in muted magnolia tones with dashes of vibrancy supplied by the multi-coloured glass shades of the table lights.

The brasserie is frequented by the members of the Institution and those in the know. It isn’t a restaurant that you’ll likely just stumble over. It is, however, open to the public as is the café just next door. There are also private dining rooms which lend a new meaning to the phrase ‘fine dining’. That term often in reality means that the gravy is wiped from the edge of the plate and the ketchup is in a glass bottle. Fine dining at the Institution of Civil Engineers, on the other hand, is a memorable experience. Antiques, more oil paintings, polished tables and an ambiance reminiscent of embassy functions. They have private rooms here to suit anything from small groups to mass gatherings. Its location and exquisite style has assured that these function rooms have welcomed royalty, heads of state and the great and the good from every strata of society. The packages available are all, however, surprisingly reasonable.

One Great George Street is flexible and contrives to meet every possible entertaining need. There is a screening room, and with prices starting at £25.00 per head with refreshments, it’s within the budget of most event organisers. If you have a large group of close friends then it’s possible to hire the whole of the building. If you have 259 chums then you will be accommodated, as there is space to wine and dine 260 in either the State Room or the Great Hall. There are various function rooms available depending on size of party. All are well-appointed and striking.

But we were not throwing a bash and there were just two of us so we settled for Brasserie One. A menu which changes every week reflected what was good at this spring season. Open from 12.00 until 14.30 every week-day, Brasserie One can seat up to 67. If you are just after a snack then the cafe next door provides sweet and savoury lite bites.

I was struck by the prices. £12 or so for some main dishes is far less than one would expect to pay in comparable establishments. It is a neighbourhood where one could be rubbing shoulders with media types or even a peckish politician. I settled on potted shrimp as my starter and it was a generous portion of buttery and well-seasoned shellfish, attractively served in a deep square ramekin. My guest enjoyed his Palma ham with peppery rocket salad, garnished with the classic sweet pear and walnut.

My main course was Omelette Arnold Bennett. This was a hearty plateful of fluffy egg surrounding opaque white smoked haddock. Once again the freshness of the simple ingredients and the more than adequate portion size gave one that warm, cosy feeling of all being well with the chef and his kitchen. David Wilkinson has been Executive Chef at Brasserie One since 2000. He says “It’s my first role as Exec Chef, and I can honestly say with hand on heart that this has been the most enjoyable job I have ever had. The progress that we have made here, not just in the kitchen but also in One Great George Street in general, has been amazing. It's been a great experience, albeit challenging, building up the exceptional team we now have. All this experience has enabled us to cater efficiently for capacities previously not considered, with the quality and standard of the food we offer having improved immensely.”

My partner for lunch craved a bit of meat and was not disappointed with his pork cutlet which he proclaimed juicy and flavourful. It was a thick chop garnished with creamy mash, roasted root vegetables and braised apple. He hardly had room for dessert.

The sweets on offer here also change with the seasons, like Mango Panna Cota dressed with diced mango and a mango puree. It’s just the right time to find that fruit at its best in the shops, and used to great effect here. Thoughtful in both execution and presentation.

Brasserie One is a restaurant which works on every level. The food can’t be faulted. The chef sets high standards not only for the restaurant menu but also for function catering. Everything is made on the premises to assure that the good reputation gained over these past years is maintained. Attention to detail and realistic prices guarantee the continued success of this hidden gem.

The Brasserie and Café Bar are located at the Institution of Civil Engineers, One Great George Street, just off Parliament Square, a short walk from Westminster tube station.

Gaucho by the River

That title paints a pretty picture of a leather-clad rider basking in the last of the evening sun. Pink rays reflecting off the mirror-like surface of the Paraná. Yes, OK, so I looked it up but you get the idea. Well, that dream isn’t quite the story here. The Gaucho in question isn’t a who but a what and the river is the Thames.

Gaucho Grill is one of a small chain of Argentinean steak restaurants. They are more than a cut above most of their competitors and that is due not only to the quality of the food but also the amazing ambiance. This particular restaurant has a prime spot on the Richmond water-front. It’s on the quieter side of Richmond Bridge and opposite the site of the former celebrated ice rink. Some rather swanky apartments now decorate that plot; although the developers once promised a replacement sports facility, one suspects that hell will be freezing over before the ice would on any forthcoming ice rink.

The view is lovely. Gaucho boasts a deck surrounding one of Richmond’s largest trees. This offers the prospect of welcome shade should we ever have a summer, or a nice bit of firewood should our present temperature continue. That spacious terrace can sit up to 130 alfresco diners, with another 100 or so inside.

There is corporate identity writ big here. That is often a negative aspect but Gaucho has cultivated a high-end marque. It’s a vision of black and white. Cow hide decorates several wall panels and several chairs but Gaucho refrains from stooping to the contrived and tacky décor that the subject matter might suggest. There are no bulls-head coat racks and no branding irons as cocktail stirrers. The impression is of tasteful masculinity rather than blokey macho force. It’s a meat-eating establishment but with plenty to charm the female of the species, both on the menu and the walls.

Gaucho offers a good selection of Argentinean wines and they are proudly displayed both behind the bar and as a screen in the restaurant.

Wine is nice but a South American cocktail had this girl’s name on it. I have sampled Mojitos many a time and I have found them generally to be very alcoholic and flavourless. Yet I bravely gave it one more try and this version showed just why this drink became so popular in the first place. The tall frosty glass held a light cocktail with real mint freshness. The bowl of paprika-spiced popcorn was moreish and could have tempted me down the route of one too many Mojitos.

We perused the menu and enjoyed some Argentinean rolls and some dark French bread served with both butter and chimichurri dip. This arrived not in the ubiquitous basket but in a shallow black earthenware dish. The salt and pepper were presented in miniature bowls of the same material. The rustic crockery worked well with the contemporary furnishings, still maintaining the monochrome theme. Even the serving staff are dressed all in black and blend seamlessly with the background.

A non-meat starter seemed in order as the main course was going to be bovine-based. I chose Hand Picked Crab with Quail’s egg, avocado, red onion, tomato and mustard mayonnaise, potato and Aji Amarillo, a yellow pepper. Crab in any form is such a luxuriously decadent dish and when the crustacean has flesh picked by hands other than my own then it’s irresistible. This made for a light but deliciously spicy introduction to the piscatorial section of the bill of fare. Fish eaters are surprisingly well catered for at Gaucho. Plenty of ceviches on offer (raw marinated fish), so my companion tried Ecuadorian Marinated Tiger Prawns in a roasted tomato and lime sauce which he proclaimed sweet, tangy with some heat from chilli, and still with firm texture.

My guest meandered through the drinks list which carries an impressive and diverse selection of Argentinean wines. The profile of each wine includes a reference to the altitude of the vineyard, a statistic not normally mentioned with regard to Old-World wines; but the geographic conditions in South America can have an effect on the characteristics of their grapes. Temperatures and sunlight at a thousand metres or more are very different from those nearer sea level. He selected a Fabre Montmayon Malbec from Mendoza (900metres) which was a well-rounded red with soft tannins.

Meat is king here. Our waiter wielded a board of uncooked cuts of beef and some lamb chops. He described their individual qualities and suggested the best degree of grilling. We each chose a steak and some side dishes, which arrived cooked to order from the open kitchen. I was impressed by my 225g of sirloin, labelled as Bife De Chorizo. It’s a common cut but often dry and unappetising. This, however, was tender and juicy and the 225g was not outfacingly large. A generous portion for any average eater.

My guest has a manly appetite so selected a 300g steak which had been marinated in garlic and herbs. This was one of the Churrasco spiral cuts and was called Cuadril. It had pronounced flavour from both grill and marinade. It hardly needed the accompanying ramekin of mustard sauce. Well worth trying this particular steak.

Side dishes here are a thoughtful bunch and offer far more than the ubiquitous fries, onion rings and slimy mushrooms. I chose the Argentinean equivalent of Mexican tamales. These Humitas arrived wrapped in corn husks just as the tamales might have, although I found the Humitas to be a softer and creamier texture with evidence of crushed sweetcorn. A marvellous foil for my pepper-sauce-garnished steak. The grilled vegetables were cooked to attractive perfection and the crunchy bean salad allowed us to feel healthy and noble.

You’ll be well advised to save just a little space for dessert. We were drawn to several and so settled on the Dessert Sampler which allowed us to indulge in Cheesecake with dulce de leche, coffee biscuit and chocolate sauce, Lime Pie with its sweet brittle topping, and Chocolate Cake which was moist and melting, rich and dark. An espresso coffee is de rigueur with such a platter.

Our evening at Gaucho offered everything that one might wish for in a good steak house. Wish, yes, but seldom find. Striking surroundings, superb food and knowledgeable staff. It’s not the cheapest meal out but it’s still value for money. Our evening terminated with a couple of sighs of contentment.


Opening times
Mon - Sat: 12:00 - 23:00
Sun (and Bank Holidays): 12:00 - 22:30

The Lancaster London Hotel Peter Pan Afternoon Tea

Peter is a seven-day-old infant who, "like all infants", used to be part bird. Peter has complete faith in his flying abilities, so, upon overhearing a discussion of his future adult life, he is able to escape through the window of his London home and return to Kensington Gardens. Well, who can blame him? He is, however, the only “infant” with such a history to be immortalised in bronze in his beloved Kensington Gardens, and in a book bearing his name.

This year sees the 150th anniversary of Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie's birth! He documented Peter’s adventures and gave all rights to his books to Great Ormond Street Hospital when he died in 1937. Peter is mischevious and iconic, and he conjures memories of a more innocent and quintessentially English world.

The bronze statue of Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens is one of the most popular monuments in London. He stands along the west bank of the Long Water. This site has a particular importance for Peter Pan and was specially chosen by J M Barrie – an enchanted glade where often, I have heard tell, one can find a golden sheen of fairy dust. But where can one get a bag of good quality fairy dust these days? The 5-star Lancaster London Hotel near Lancaster Gate has a supply.

The Lancaster London is appreciated for its panoramic views over Hyde Park, the largest of London’s Royal Parks; and then there is London’s famous skyline to enjoy. It is one of the tallest buildings in this prestigious area, with over 18 floors. The Lancaster boasts a brace of popular restaurants including the exotic and elegant award-winning Nipa Thai restaurant, but our goal was the Lounge Bar to enjoy an oasis of calm and a traditional English Afternoon Tea with a difference. One might describe it as a tea with character.

Not only does this attractive hotel have an amazing location but it also has that fairy dust. It’s probable that they have cornered the market. Rather than keeping it to themselves the management have chosen to donate a bag of the precious commodity (OK, so it looks like nuggets of bread) to every teatime guest. They have even included a map so you can find your way to Hyde Park to feed the aforementioned fairy dust to the ducks.

They do teatime so well at the Lancaster. The Lounge Bar is a vision of gold-hue carpet and dark wood. The bar area is an annex off the wide lounge area, which is lined with low tables, and the chairs and sofas are of the sleep-inducing comfort style. There is just a gentle buzz of discreet conversation from our fellow guests, some of whom were children utterly enthralled by the theatre of the event as well as the prospect of a glimpse of a particular lost boy. The ambiance is casually formal as one would expect and just right for a grown-up tea party.

The afternoon tea here is one of the most reasonable around. It has all the elements of the classic version but with thoughtful, not to mention delicious, extras. The tea table is laid with crisp white linen, sugar bowl, tea cups and plates, not forgetting the small pouches of the essential fairy dust. The traditional 3-tier silver stand arrives accompanied by squeals of delight from the smaller of the assembled guests. However many times I see such a display I am still excited. Nostalgia at its finest.

Crème Brulée isn’t a typical teatime item but here it is served as an Amuse Bouche before the main event. It was a Passion Fruit Crème Brulée served in a small taster ramekin. I trust this would be available in the Lancaster’s Island Restaurant along the hallway. It was a tangy stunner. One must have some savoury before the sweet so the lowest level of the stand housed the Lost Boy’s Sandwiches. These were a selection of Peanut Butter and Banana on wholemeal bread (sounds a strange combination but this really works), Smoked Chicken, Spring Onion and Mayonnaise on walnut bread; Egg Mayonnaise and Cress on herb bread. There were also miniature Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese scones with chives, and Cheese and Caraway scones with honey-roast ham and mustard. Little additions to the typical spread.
 
Scones are an essential part of any self-respecting tea, and the Lancaster offers Mrs Darling’s Scones (is this poetic licence or is the chef honestly called Mrs Darling?) These are served with strawberry jam or honey, and clotted cream. They were light and flaky scones and a good transition from the savoury sandwiches to the sticky sweetness of the delicately-executed fancy cakes garnishing the top layer of the stand.
 
As one would expect, these tarts, cookies and gateaux were labelled “Peter and Wendy’s favourite treats” and were a collection of strawberry mille-feuille, fresh fruit tarts, dark chocolate mousse, pecan tarts, Viennese shortbread and macaroons. All attractive and delicious, and helped down with several pots of hot jasmine and green tea.

One might not be able to “take tea” every day but The Lancaster provides a lovely venue for passing a few unhurried hours in the most perfect of surroundings. Great value for money for an exceptional experience.

The Peter Pan celebration tea is available in the hotel’s first floor Lancaster Lounge every day from 3pm until 5.30pm.

Pinchito Tapas Restaurant, W1

Pinchito Tapas restaurants were designed and launched by four friends with a passion for food, drink of all kinds and, naturally, all things Spanish. Bruce Bartholomew might not have a Spanish name but he is a founder and director and the man who entertained me at the W1 branch. He has a fine pedigree of over ten years of working in fashionable London drinking establishments, including Beach Blanket Babylon, Zeta (Hilton), Cabaret Prophecy and Hakassan. He is justifiably proud of this, his latest venture.

I wasn’t at Pinchito’s for evening tapas nor for one of their renowned Paella Masterclasses, I was here for breakfast. Yes, dear reader, I can hear you raising your eyebrows, but read on. The Spanish have three meals a day just like the lucky ones in most of the rest of the world. The earliest one falls after dinner and before lunch and is called breakfast, or at least it is by English-speaking Spaniards.

Pinchito opens at 10am to catch the passing trade heading for the Tottenham Court Road, as well as a few business folk who want a quiet oasis outside the confines of their office walls. It’s conveniently placed just a stone’s throw from Goodge Street station. It’s not the faux-Spanish style of eatery which is mushrooming all over Greater London. Neither a sombrero nor a straw donkey in sight. No, this is urban. This is city. This has edgy but thoughtfully composed style. It’s not the Costa Brava. This is us.

The high bar, open kitchen, artwork, leatherette booths, stools and black tables provide a convivial space that works for breakfast, lunch or the ever-popular evening tapas. The late morning and lunch crowd can spread themselves by the window or people-watch at the tables outside. It’s just far enough away from Tottenham Court Road to provide a bit of peace. The night-time throng can fill the booths near the bar or perch on those high stools in a sophisticated fashion, a trick I have never mastered.

Why choose a Spanish breakfast? Quite simply because it’s varied and delicious. Pinchito offers several of their tapas items that work well as a breakfast or brunch. A traditional morning snack in Spain is a bowl of churros and some hot chocolate. You won’t be disappointed with the version here. The fried, sugar-dredged loops of dough are golden and crunchy with a piping hot and tender interior. They are moreish when dipped into a rich and molten bath of dark chocolate. This is also a favourite dessert tapa for later in the day.

Santo Mexican Restaurant

Picture this, dear reader: it’s mid-May and the sun is shining. We head out onto the streets of London like lemmings with a mission. It’s the fear of those rays disappearing that encourages the citizens of our fair city, and a good number of tourists, to seek gentle entertainment in the company of their families or those they actually like.

It was on such a day that we sought diversion in Santo on the Portabello Road. It’s a trendy and eclectic neighbourhood with a host of ethnic and arty shops as well as market stalls and antique stores. Crowds of people enjoying some warm weather and looking for some good food at a reasonable price. We, the lucky ones, found Santo.

This small restaurant attracts a mix of discerning locals and curious tourists. Tables outside offer perches for people-watchers, and rustic tables accommodate others inside. Brick walls and paper banners help to create the ambiance of old Mexico. Those who have travelled to that country will recognise those “papel picado” or paper doilies from restaurants, festivals and celebrations.

Santo lends a whole new meaning to the term “open kitchen”. Chef Fernando is right by the front door with his hob and work-station. The full kitchen at the back of the restaurant provides the slow-cooked ingredients but the assembly is in full view of the customers. It’s culinary theatre, and fascinating.

We settled ourselves and perused the drinks menu. Fernando has a good selection of Mexican favourites and the Margaritas are the most popular choice for the regulars here. I ordered the classic with a delicately salted rim. My companion chose a Flor de Jamaica which proved to be a rich red and fruity concoction which would encourage anyone of good taste to try just one more.

Our lunch started with a plate of lettuce garnished with scrolls of cheese, pickled peppers, tomato, black beans and Mexican rice. We didn’t have long to wait till the other dishes put in an appearance. It’s the nature of the Sunday brunch that various plates are delivered one at a time. This is an unhurried meal. One to relax over and talk of the events of the week.

The first of our array of dishes was a Torta Ahogada or "drowned sandwich”. It is a typical dish from the Mexican state of Jalisco and in particular the city of Guadalajara. This was the first time I had come across this dish even though I often eat Mexican food in London. It’s a spicy combination of crusty bread, pork as filling and lots of sauce. A messy business if one was to eat it by hand as is typical at Guadalajara football matches, but easily accomplished if one resorts to cutlery.

The next offering was a rolled and crispy taco filled with beef. It was attractively garnished with guacamole, red chilli sauce and sour cream. This one, I found, was easier eaten by hand. Very spicy and flavourful and fun to eat. The crispy cylinder was joined by some soft tortillas topped with Fernando’s signature dish of braised ox cheek. This is a must-try for any beef lover. The flavour is the very essence of beef with a gelatinous and soft texture. It’s becoming a fashionable cut of meat, in the same way that lamb shanks did a few years ago.

More soft tortillas next, but this time with a topping of shredded chicken. This was far less spicy than some of the previous dishes, with a delicate sweetness. The belly pork was another variety and was one of the best Mexican dishes I have tasted in a while, the meat being tender with a real flavour of the grill.

Our final dish was fish ceviche. This is a traditional preparation of white fish “cooked” in a marinade. The flesh becomes opaque when steeped in citrus juice. It needs to be left in the acid for only a short period or the texture will suffer. Fernando’s version was just right, with the seafood being served with diced tomatoes for colour.

Santo is a rustic charmer. The food is traditional, authentic and delicious. It’s already the usual Sunday haunt of residents of Notting Hill, but it’s worth a bus ride to enjoy a few convivial hours with food that’s a bit out of the ordinary.

Freggo

Well, what is a Freggo? It was once a Freddo but changed its name when it opened a branch in London. Its origins are Argentinian and it fair oozes a certain je ne sais quoi ...or whatever that is in Spanish.

It’s an ice cream parlour, a sandwich bar, a café, a tea shop and a chic little refuge from the overwhelming buzz of London’s frantic streets. It nestles next door to its parent, Gaucho, on a pedestrianised thoroughfare just off Regent Street, offering outside seating whenever we have an approximation of a summer.

Freggo is a boutique café of striking colour and design. There is a high-backed banquette in one corner and stools and coffee tables in another. It’s PURPLE and it’s in capitals for good reason: this is corporate imaging at its slickest. It works. The Argentinian shops, those Freddos, are said to be in pale blue but London’s Freggo has pushed the envelope and discovered a style which is appropriate both for ladies wot lunch and for nightclub revellers who are seeking some sweet calories at 2am.

One might not necessarily connect Argentina with ice cream. We Europeans bow to the Italian idol of gelato or even that of a poor-quality soft ice cream sold from the back of a truck. But, when one thinks about it, one has every reason to associate Argentina with dairy products. They are celebrated for their beef (Gaucho next door is a veritable shrine to all things bovine) and what do cows make? A lot of milk. Combine that with Italian immigrants and you have a formula for ice cream heaven.

The quality of ice cream here is unbeatable. The flavours offer some very traditional Argentinian favourites which you’ll not find anywhere else on this side of a considerable stretch of ocean. There is nothing outlandish here. No mud-slide something or other. No uncooked dough (I have never understood the appeal of that). There is, however, a selection of confections that will reduce any homesick South American to tears. Try a cone or tub of Dolce de Leche which is rich enough to warrant sharing. True, it might warrant it, but you’ll be reluctant to share. This must surely be the signature ice cream.

It’s possible to offer several signature dishes in restaurants so perhaps Freggo should take the liberty of listing Malbec and Berries as a joint favourite. This is a vivid deep red sorbet-like ice with fruity but adult flavour. This could be a dessert at the end of the poshest of dinner parties and your guests would not be disappointed. It’s unique to Freggo and can be delivered in a radius of a few miles from the store.

Apart from their tempting ice cream, Freggo have a cabinet stuffed full of traditional Argentinian cakes and these are definitely worth crossing a street or two for. There is much here that is different but all those cakes and cookies that I sampled were delightful. They are made for Freggo by a South American baker in London and give a taste of authentic sweet treats.

Tarte de Marmalada is a crumbly pastry base topped with a quince jam which was tangy and moreish. Hot pancakes with ice cream and Dolce de Leche will have you hooked. The Dolce de Leche is used in many desserts and it’s addictive. It has an almost caramel cream flavour and a gooey consistency. You couldn’t eat a lot of this rich sauce, although you might like to try.

Alfajores are not to be missed. They have been popular in Argentina since the mid 19th century, but they have their roots in the Arab world. They are two discs of biscuit (cookie) sandwiched together with Dolce de Leche. Very sweet but ideal with a cup of coffee or even the prized Maté tea, which is said to contain even more antioxidants than green tea. It’s a traditional drink made from a type of holly and drunk from a small hollow gourd using a metal straw. Freggo, though, presents their Maté in a regular cup with a saucer.

If you prefer something less sweet with your cuppa then Freggo continues the South American theme with empanadas. These are pasties filled with various combinations of savoury ingredients, or try their tortilla of chorizo and beans. They also offer a spinach and mushroom frittata as well as a choice of toasted sandwiches. The soup of the day is popular in cold weather and we have plenty of that.

In short, I am taken with Freggo. It’s a simple concept of a small shop selling ice cream, drinks and snacks but it’s one of the best of that genre and the only one to my knowledge that sells such quintessentially Argentinian fare. The ambiance was stylish and comfortable and the staff charming and enthusiastic. This will be my regular central London pit-stop. I wish there were more of them.

Browns Covent Garden

Over the last three decades Browns has become a familiar name for those looking for an authentic brasserie experience. In 1973 the very first Browns opened its doors and it has been a popular chain ever since.

We visited Browns Covent Garden and it had anything but the feel of a chain restaurant. There were none of those obvious corporate trappings that so litter other establishments. This had the air of a real Parisian brasserie, and the nature of the building did nothing to detract from that classic ambiance. Browns Covent Garden is housed in the former Westminster Law Courts, built in 1908. It is in fact a Grade II listed building. The function rooms are said to boast the original judge’s bench. The courts were tastefully converted to a Browns Restaurant in 1996 and it now seats 320 on the ground floor. The restaurant didn’t, however, seem like an aircraft hangar. There were several raised areas and pillars and palms to give privacy and a more intimate feel.

The bar is magnificent and even that wafts one back to gay Paree during La Belle Epoch. Silver ice buckets, dark wood, sweeping spiral staircases (one up and another down) dark leather and antique mirrors all add to the impression. Even the waiters wear those distinctive long aprons so beloved of continental front-of-house staff. The walls are muted taupe bathed in light from original sash windows giving views over the bustle of a busy London street.

We were seated on a corner banquette by the aforementioned windows and we enjoyed an elevated vantage point. Our fellow diners were tourists, and office workers who had Browns as their regular Friday lunchtime retreat. It’s difficult to find a solid central London restaurant that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg and isn’t full to bursting. Browns is big enough to be comfortable even when moderately full, but still with relatively speedy service.

I ordered a Mai Tai from the drinks menu, which runs to a stunning 20 pages or so of very respectable wines at reasonable prices. There is a good selection of chilled continental beers and even ciders, so something for every taste and occasion. The waiter was knowledgeable and was able to make good suggestions for food and wine pairings.

The menu is a fascinating and eclectic mix. From Burgers (I got a look at them and they were a cut above anything from a fast food chain, and with enough garnishes to sink a battleship) to Guinea Fowl as well as pies and more. A chalk-board with the day’s specials offered an array of equally stylish dishes.

My starter was a Goat’s Cheese and Red Onion Tart. The cheese was melting and tangy, contrasted by the sweetness of the caramelised onions. The roasted red pepper and rocket salad was a substantial garnish. The tart was piping hot with delicate and crumbly crust.

My guest ordered Chicken and Duck Liver Parfait. This was served with an apple and pear chutney and toasted rye bread and was amazingly good value for money. The paté was light and almost mousse-like and moreish. The fruit chutney was a well chosen accompaniment. Paté is a standard brasserie or bistro item and it’s often dry and uninspiring. This one, however, was delicious and thoughtfully presented.

My companion is a man often drawn to fish. He was tempted by several piscatorial dishes from both the main menu and the chalk-board. He dithered over the traditional fish and chips but settled on Monkfish wrapped in Prosciutto. This had its side dishes of buttered new potatoes as well as the colourful and flavourful Sweet Pepper Confit. Monkfish has a meaty flesh but it’s so often overcooked and bland. This dish was succulent and made more interesting by the salty spike of the bacon.

I chose Slow Cooked Pork Belly from the chalk-board as my main course. This was the best I had eaten in a long time. The meat was rich and tender with a soft rind, perfumed with spices, aromatic and adding so much to the dish. It was served atop a mound of real mash with a pool of proper gravy. This was comfort food of the highest order. Nothing fancy but just right in every regard. This should be added to the regular menu.

Desserts at Browns are listed as Puddings and I found that appropriate for this style of restaurant in its quintessentially British location. A good roll-call of classics including Sticky Toffee Pudding and Brownies. I ordered the Bread and Butter Pudding. Here it’s made with brioche, making for a light and rich dessert served in a wedge. The vanilla ice cream sported those black specks to confirm that it had truly been on nodding terms with a real vanilla bean.

My guest chose the cheese board. This was indeed a board groaning under the weight of three wedges of cheese (Brie, Danish Blue and Cheddar) as well as enough grapes to grace any posh sideboard, and a pile of crackers. This cried out for a nice glass of port or at least a glass of robust red.

Browns Covent Garden was a surprise. OK, so it’s part of a chain but it has the class of an authentic brasserie. The menu offers a broad spectrum of dishes and those that we ordered were well executed. The wine list was a revelation. If this particular branch is typical of the whole fleet then they deserve to remain a success. Its location and its history serve to make this a must-visit eatery for tourists as well as locals in the know.

Opening Times
Open: 9am (10am Weekends)
Close: 11pm
(11.30pm Thursday - Saturday. 10.30pm Sunday)

Full Menu from: 12noon
Breakfast/Brunch until: 12noon (4pm weekends)

Afternoon Tea: 2pm to 5pm

Afternoon Tea at Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill

Afternoon tea is very much in vogue these days, so why wouldn’t you have a traditional afternoon tea in London, the capital of European tea-drinking? If you are going to the trouble of visiting London then you want to enjoy afternoon tea at its best and that’s just what Hyatt Regency The Churchill offers.

This striking hotel can be found just a couple of minutes’ walk  away from Oxford Street, one of London’s most popular shopping thoroughfares and a magnet for those seeking therapy of the retail sort. The Churchill has views over the gardens of Portman Square, the sight of which sweeps one back to a gentler age when this open space echoed to the sound of the clip-clopping of horses rather than the roar of Mercedes horse power. It’s not only the hotel in general with those stunning views: the Montagu restaurant in particular boasts windows to this quintessentially London scene. It is named after socialite Elizabeth Montagu and her husband Edward, grandson to the first Earl of Sandwich, whose home occupied part of this site. Black cabs, tourists, office workers now create a moving foreground to the lush vegetation.

The Montagu seats up to 130 guests in contemporary but stylish comfort. Its dark wood, crisp linen, muted taupe walls are bathed in light from huge chandeliers and the aforementioned windows. It contrives to be both traditional and modern and it works. Yes, indeed there are classic elements to this restaurant but they are marvellously contrasted with a bar sporting a bank of horizontal wine bottles (practical but very chic), and the most open of open kitchens.

We have all seen them, those open kitchens. They are often no more than a slit in the restaurant wall and showing nothing more of the chefs than their white-clad shoulders and perhaps a daringly coloured bandana or two. The Montagu kitchen, however, is part of the restaurant. One can watch the theatre of food preparation by staff who, I guess, must be well-behaved at all times. Perhaps that’s the reason why such an arrangement would never do for some of Britain’s more “animated” celebrity chefs.

The Chef’s Table gives a few visitors the opportunity to take an even closer look at proceedings. Once again The Montagu has gone the extra mile, this time in order to give a close but civilised view of chefs in action. The concept of eating at the chef’s table has been around for a while. Other restaurants might have a cramped table for two between the dishwasher and the swinging kitchen door, with the diners’ eye-level being waist-high to the chef, allowing a view of just a profile of a stock pot and lots of blue flames. Here the guests are seated at a raised island with vistas of the whole kitchen. The Chef’s Table seats two to nine people on high stools and is available for lunch or dinner during the week. It costs £75.00 per person for five courses including matched wines, or £95.00 for eight courses including matched wines.

It was springtime in London. Cold and wet and I was looking forward to the comfort of an open fire (yes, dear reader, there is such a thing to hand) and an afternoon tea with all the elegance and charm that notion conjures. As a member of the Tea Council’s prestigious ‘Tea Guild', Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill sounded like an ideal spot for a cuppa and some sweet and savoury delights. I was not disappointed – they presented the most iconic and relaxing of afternoon teas.

Roast – the Restaurant

Iqbal Wahhab, now OBE, (awarded that high honour in recognition of his public service and services for promotion of the hospitality industry) is a man famously passionate about food as well as society in general. The Times has described him as "a National Treasure". He uses his position for the benefit of many and we all know how rare that is. Amongst other activities Iqbal works closely with The Prince's Trust, taking children from under-privileged schools in South-East London and spending half-days with them at Roast, and taking them on food education programmes around Borough Market.

He was born in Bangladesh and came to Britain when only eight months old. He is a graduate of the London School of Economics. In 1991 he set up his own PR firm specialising in food, drink and restaurants, and in 1994 he launched Tandoori Magazine. He sold the magazine to launch the award-winning Cinnamon Club in 2001 and in 2003 he co-authored The Cinnamon Club Cookbook (reviewed here). In 2005 Iqbal opened Roast, different in so many ways from Cinnamon Club but still reflecting the same high standards.

Roast is housed in the striking structure rising high over the celebrated Borough Market. Its facade reminds one of a conservatory or a glasshouse at Kew Gardens. It is in fact the portico of the former flower market and has made for a most attractive and unique restaurant.

The entrance to Roast is not one bit historic. There is a choice of lift (elevator) or a small lobby and a flight or two of stairs. We took the stairs as we had been warned that a considerable meal was in the offing. My dear American reader will no doubt appreciate the opinion of David Rosengarten. For those of you from the right side of the pond and beyond I can tell you that he is one of the most well-respected authorities in the US for all things foodie. He once told me that Roast is one of his favourite restaurants in London. We were expecting good things.

It would perhaps have been tempting to contrive an over-themed restaurant with the paraphernalia of produce purveying - a crate of King Edwards, some artfully displayed broad beans and a couple of Webb’s Wonders on Astroturf. But thankfully Iqbal Wahhab and his team rose above that. It’s a comfy and contemporary retreat from the exterior bustle. Every detail is correct and thoughtful, from the salt shakers to the artwork. A solid businesslike ambiance and staff who move with the practised ease of professionals.

Ed’s Easy Diner, Euston Station

Ed’s is a small chain of classic American diners. It was founded in November 1987 in London by Barry Margolis. It was the first of its kind in the UK when the first Ed’s opened its doors in Soho.

Over the last couple of decades Ed’s has become a landmark and has been a location for films, television and photo shoots. It’s a must-visit eatery for tourists coming to London, but has equally managed to cultivate a loyal local following.

We visited the latest Ed's which is conveniently located just outside Euston Station. It had only been opened a week but was already full with travellers and regulars. Its attractive and iconic interior is magnetic. It’s the most authentic American diner I have come across on this side of the pond. It encapsulates all that we think of as 1950s Americana: chrome, red vinyl, counter with high stools, and juke boxes.

The music was a big part of the experience. It’s well chosen and in keeping with the retro ambiance. I would suggest that even those who might not normally be drawn to that style of music will appreciate it in this environment. There are original table-top Seeburg 100 Wallamatic juke boxes dotted around for customers to browse and choose those long-loved favourites. OK, it’s true that some of the subject matter might seem less than jolly. Running Bear and Little White Dove (both dead in a river), Tell Laura I Love Her (dead in a car crash), He stopped Loving Her Today (dead in a box). Plenty of foot-tapping rock-and-roll tunes to keep you from the brink of suicide, though. All-American and designed to bring back memories for those of us of a certain age.

The kitchen is open, allowing guests sitting at the counter a view of food preparation and plating. Even the kitchen area has those authentic elements to waft you away to a little spot in California in simpler times. Quilted brushed steel panels, shake goblets and bottles of French’s mustard add to the impression.

I ordered a cheese burger. It just seemed right to have that most popular of diner fare. A bowl of wet fries kept me company while my beef patty was grilled. Ed offers a selection of fries from the classic and unadorned chips to those coated with chilli, cheese, bacon and cheese, and chilli and cheese. Atomic American Fries have jalapeno jelly, chilli, sour cream, cheddar cheese sauce and guacamole on the side but that’s a meal in its own right. The aforementioned wet fries are chunky chips with a brown gravy. Delicious when eaten piping hot.

The burger was made from 5oz of lean ground fully traceable, prime British Beef, each one grilled to order. Hamburgers are cooked medium or medium well. The management discourage well-cooked burgers as they feel it ruins the quality of the finished product. Mine was a succulent and flavourful burger and was a substantial meal. There is a good selection of burgers from the Classic garnished with griddled onions, the Original with lettuce and tomato, to the Big Bubba with added bacon and cheese.

My guest, a man who is a self-confessed hot dog aficionado, was tempted by a Chilli Dog. This is a large beef hot dog said to be made to a traditional American recipe. The dish starts as a sausage in a bun but then there is a liberal pouring of zesty chilli con carne. It’s a knife and fork job, unless you want it as a take-away to eat at home in the bath.

Save room for one of Ed's celebrated shakes or malts. They are served in the aforementioned stainless steel mixer goblets. Each container holds two glasses-worth of thick, creamy drink. Ed's Favourite Shakes flavours include Coffee, Butterscotch, Peanut Butter, Vanilla, Chocolate, Banana, Strawberry, Mint, Banana & Peanut Butter, Mint Chocolate, Coffee & Banana, Oreo Cookies, and Mocha (chocolate & coffee). The malts come in the same flavours so I ordered a chocolate malt …and two glasses. This is the real thing. If you have had an authentic malt in the US then try one at Ed’s. You won’t be disappointed. The manager told us that these are particularly favoured by kids, who are well catered for at Ed’s: they consider children as future tippers and want their continued patronage. They get their own Junior Bites menu and activity sheets.

Ed’s has charm and theatre. It’s a visual, audio and taste experience of first-rate casual dining. The staff are friendly and keen to please. You’ll go because you’ll be curious, but be prepared to become hooked. Great fun.

The Five Tuns – Terminal 5

Yes, dear reader, I travel and I expect you, too, will have that delight from time to time. When one flies there are invariably tedious hours to fill while one waits for the plane which is still most likely stuck in JFK or Johannesburg. If you are lucky then you’ll be marooned in an airport with good facilities. The Five Tuns is located in Heathrow’s dramatic new Terminal 5 building and could be your refuge from both hunger and boredom.

This establishment strikes the right balance between a traditional pub and the Continental concept of a bar with real food and a family-friendly atmosphere. It’s an attractive airy space located on the top floor. It’s a contemporary vision of dark wood and moquette. I guess many of you won’t recognise the word but it’s a fabric with a pile, oft used as upholstery on London’s buses and tube trains. The material design is different and more thoughtful than the industrial version but it does give a nod to the location.

The menu is a solid mix of standard favourites with a touch of innovation. It has both an all-day menu and a breakfast menu for those who are jet-lagged and those who are still under the misapprehension that to eat well in England one must eat breakfast three times each day... or so said Somerset Maugham.

I visited one cold Monday evening and chose from the all-day menu which offered some gastropubby suggestions. Smoked Salmon served on a Potato Cake with a Dill Mayonnaise would have been the choice had the weather been more cooperative but tonight I was tempted by the Warm Black Pudding Salad with a Poached Egg. This was surprisingly substantial with plenty of well-seasoned black pudding crowned with a well-cooked and richly runny egg, the yolk creating a comforting sauce for the mixed leaves. For the uninitiated this might sound an alarming concoction but warm salad is a classic and a favourite in bistros across la belle France.

Fish and Chips looked tempting as it was served to a family of holiday-makers. Perhaps this is the most iconic of dishes and just what one craves after a week or two spent eating nothing more exciting than paté de foie gras, paella or saltimbocca. Or it could be that the prospect of moist white fish in a crunchy golden batter would be irresistible even sans vacances.

The French waitress confided that her favourite dish on the menu was the Chicken Curry, Rice and Naan Bread. I guess that seems exotic to those from a land almost void of decent Indian restaurants. The grilled dry-aged Rib-Eye Steak, Chips and Béarnaise Sauce was, however, the main dish for us. It’s a staple for travellers and terminal staff alike. Its presentation was impressive, arriving on a wooden board as thick as a kitchen table-top. The steak was delicious and perfectly cooked. The accompanying fries were stacked in a metal pot and were chunky, piping hot and the sort one encounters only where there is a skilled chef or a well-practised mum.

The dessert card had lots of traditional puds: Treacle Tart with Clotted Cream, Sticky Date Pudding and Toffee Sauce, Bread and Butter Pudding would all have been appropriate ends to our choice of a rather British supper, but the aforementioned Gallic server steered us in the direction of another one of her favourites, the Chocolate Brownie. I have never been a lover of these often dry articles, but this was a wedge of sheer chocoholic delight. I think this one could be more likened to a chocolate fudge cake with a hint of mousse. It was meltingly decadent and glossy. Nothing more to add apart from an espresso.

The Five Tuns is the sort of spot overlooked by restaurant reviewers. It’s not on a classy thoroughfare. It doesn’t overlook a monumental monument, and you probably wouldn’t have your wedding reception there, but it serves great food at reasonable prices and it’s just where it needs to be to provide a hearty meal for those arriving from or heading to distant climes. A good solid casual-dining spot.

Open every day from 05:30 am until 10:00 pm
Visit The Five Tuns here

Bob Bob Ricard for Afternoon Tea

Ricard is in fact a chap called Richard Howarth and the Bob Bob a wealthy Russian by the name of Leonid Shutov. Richard gave Leonid the nickname of Bob as he found Leonid unpronounceable. I guess Leonid renamed Richard out of revenge. The restaurant name is a bit of whimsical mathematics. Leonid is said to have put up two-thirds of the finance for the venture so he gets twice the mention.

We were going for afternoon tea. Bob Bob Ricard is found at the far end of Carnaby Street. Yes, that bastion of all things tie-dye and joss-sticky has changed out of all recognition into a street of chain boutiques. BBR is, however, a haven of class with a front door and monograms to encourage the prospective diner to expect something a bit special. This prospective diner was not disappointed.

Designer David Collins has introduced the same humour and melange of cultures displayed by the owners into the restaurant itself. It’s a veritable snapshot of an enlarged Orient Express. A stylish impression of a bygone but classy age when there were plenty of staff to polish the brass. It’s a restaurant which would seat 1930’s starlets, spies from Istanbul as well as Ladies wot lunch. On reflection it’s a restaurant that should be appealing to anyone with an eclectic taste for the finer things in life.

We were settled into our comfy blue leather-upholstered booth. Plenty of marble-esque table top and aforementioned brass. Each booth is furnished with a power point. No, dear reader, that’s not for your computer. BBR serves breakfast as well as afternoon tea (and every conceivable meal either side of tea), and the socket is for the toaster. An amazingly practical idea. Aside from the energy outlet there is a button marked Press for Champagne. It doesn’t have a tap, it’s rather just a means of calling the champagne waiter. I am sure that button has an almost hypnotic draw for some.

The afternoon tea here is classic but thoughtful. The crustless sandwiches include tomato bread for the ham and mustard, and coronation chicken on carrot and coriander bread. The ubiquitous cucumber sandwiches are made with onion bread. Nice elevating touches.

Scones at Bob Bob Ricard are served with a liberal helping of clotted cream and artisanal jam. A couple of cups of hot and reviving English Breakfast tea (OK, I know it’s no longer morning but I was the customer and the customer is always right) helped down this substantial spread, and we hadn’t even reached the top of the three-tier stand.

Notice it was “we”. Well, this stand gave enough food for two. I’d recommend you start with just that, if there are a couple of you. In the unlikely event that you are still peckish then try some of the other delights such as crumpets, muffins, teacakes and that toaster.

The top plate would have been beckoning to you while you munched your scones and savouries. It’s the cakes. These were a divine selection of half a dozen miniature fancies that will take you back to your childhood, or they will if you are English and of a certain age. Battenberg, Victoria sponge, Rum Baba and Cream Horn were tempting but the Custard Tart and Chocolate Beleron fair turned this reviewer’s head.

Bob Bob Ricard is ideal for an afternoon break. One can enjoy an unhurried atmosphere of old-fashioned charm and elegance. The staff were attentive and enthusiastic. The location is convenient for shopping trips to Liberty’s and Hamley’s and the prices are no more than one would expect. It’s a spot I’ll return to often – yes, for tea, but I hear the evening menu is well worth exploring.

Paradiso Restaurant - St. Christopher's Place

The Paradiso story began with Olivelli's Hotel and Restaurant which was founded in 1934. It became a magnet for celebrities as well as actors from the thriving theatres in the West End, and the haunt of students from nearby RADA. Regulars included the Marx Brothers, Mae West, Danny Kaye and Bob Hope. In 1993 the restaurant was bought by Giovanni and Salvatore Salamone. They have expanded the company and now they have three Paradiso restaurants in central London as well as a Sicilian café at Shad Thames.

I eat my way around central London. I visit the most fashionable of restaurants. I enjoy (mostly) the food from famous chefs, and my behind has garnished some of the most expensive upholstery in Britain, but my spirits are lifted to new heights when I discover a fine neighbourhood restaurant... although this one is neighbour to Selfridges on bustling Oxford Street.

Paradiso Restaurant could be overlooked by the unknowing. It’s tucked away on a car-free street just a few yards from the well-pounded pavements of one of London’s retail havens. St. Christopher's Place is calm and classy and does indeed have the feel of a small market-town street. The restaurant facade gives no clue to the delights within. It’s Sicilian but it isn’t over-themed. It reflects more the real southern European style of tiled floors and marble table-tops.

We settled ourselves at a comfy corner table, admired the contemporary canvases and surveyed the menu. It’s extensive and offers some traditional favourites such as Melanzane Parmigiana - baked aubergines with mozzarella and tomato sauce, as well as Spaghetti Bolognese, but the menu was no worse for those inclusions. There were plenty of dishes that are less frequently offered. Costolette D’agnello Al Vino Rosso - succulent lamb cutlets simmered in a sauce of red wine, thyme, olives and vine tomatoes, and Filetto Di Salmone Al Pepe Rosa - created by the Paradiso chefs, a salmon fillet in a pink peppercorn sauce. We are reserving these for our next visit.

Calamari Fritti, deep-fried squid rings served with tartare sauce, were always going to be my starter. You know by now, dear regular reader, that I am drawn to squid on every menu. It’s often rubbery and unappetizing. I wasn’t disappointed at Paradiso. The batter was pale, crisp and light. Its presentation was simple and it was moreish.

My companion chose Arancina Con Carne as his first course. These are crispy fried arborio-rice balls filled with meat ragù, peas and mozzarella served on a tomato sauce. This one was a cricket-ball sized sphere which oozed its delicious filling. A well-executed version of the popular Sicilian favourite which is so often too dry and overcooked. Nothing wrong with this version as my guest’s empty plate and contented smile confirmed.

Paradiso has a reputation for making its own, quality pasta. I chose Tortelloni Paradiso Chef’s Special as my next course. The ricotta- and spinach-filled tortelloni were served tossed in a sauce of mushrooms, dolcelatte cheese, cream and saffron. The dish was a vibrant and sunny yellow and was truly simple but deliciously tangy and a more than ample serving. The delicate pasta was exceptional and the sauce rich. I lingered over this with the waiter’s recommendation of a glass of Vernaccia Di S.Gimignano. This was the first Italian wine to be awarded a DOC and later upgraded to DOCG. This designation of quality is the equivalent of the AOC that one finds on French wines. The waiter gave excellent and informed advice.

Scaloppine al Funghi, fillets of veal cooked in a mushroom sauce, took the fancy of my guest. This was a substantial plate, and rosemary roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables were included. The meat was tender and the sauce creamy and well seasoned. The chef had not put a foot wrong all evening. Valpolicella Classico was our waiter’s suggestion for this. Aromatic, light, fruity and devoid of excess tannin. An excellent choice for the rich veal.

Moët Movies at Axis, One Aldwych

One Aldwych is one of the best addresses. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of London in Covent Garden. This is an area which once boasted London’s biggest vegetable market but which is now celebrated as an iconic space filled with restaurants, boutiques and a market which these days sells crafts and objets d’art...

The hotel is in a convenient location between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from 15 celebrated theatres as well as the Royal Opera House.

One Aldwych is an important Edwardian building. It is now protected by English Heritage who considers its facade worth preserving. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.

Yes indeed a fabulous place to stay when in town for business or touristing, but One Aldwych is a port of call for Londoners as well as out-of-towners who want to enjoy a bit of evening pampering and a film. The film isn’t compulsory but the Axis restaurant offers an amazing package of Moët champagne and a movie. A full evening of entertainment.

The entrance to Axis is calm and Zen, a vision of marble and a welcome haven from the frantic Saturday evening crowd flowing down from Covent Garden. The anonymous foyer at ground level gives not a hint of the contemporary style of the restaurant. It’s stunning. The space is flexible allowing for groups, couples and large parties. The urban mural of skyscrapers now peeks through metal bamboo which reaches from floor to ceiling. A rather radical addition to the original decor but it works and adds texture to the imposing wall. The thoughtful architecture offers a gallery dining room which, although a balcony, offers privacy to the diners on that level.

The movie menu has a selection of four starters, mains and desserts. The film starts at 9pm so the time constraints make this short menu a practical option. It weighs in at an attractive £38.50 per person and that includes a glass of fizz and a film with popcorn.

Movie-going in London can be expensive, with tickets reaching £12.50. Add another £2.50 for the popcorn and then hope you get a good seat. The one without the kid kicking your back all evening. Axis offers a menu of delicious dishes as well as the champagne for a very reasonable price. The cinema seats 30 or so guests who are able to sip mini bottles of champagne, or perhaps a cocktail might be in order. 93% of regular movie-goers are said to be dissatisfied with the food on offer at their chosen high-street venue. No such problem at Axis.

Rillette of Salmon, blood orange, fennel and chicory salad and a sour dough crouton was my chosen starter. Served with a basket of fresh bread and butter, it made for a comforting start to the proceedings. I munched the light and fresh salad and enjoyed the ambiance of this amazing restaurant. A space which contrives to remain intimate even when full.

The menu offered roasted haddock, salmon fishcakes and braised pork belly, but my main course was Tarte Fines of Wild Mushroom. This was a simple plateful but one of the best European dishes I have eaten in a restaurant for ages. The pastry galette was spread with a duxelle (ok, so it was a paste but I am trying to educate my dear reader) of mushrooms and was topped with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce. That’s a match made in heaven as long as the egg is poached to golden, molten perfection. This one was and it was creamy with the added richness of its buttery coating.

Desserts are too often disappointing. I am not keen on swags and swathes of cream, and a surfeit of chocolate is to be avoided when one is confronted by the prospect of a ride the length of the District Line soon after. Axis offers a selection which hit all the buttons for me and my only disappointment was that I couldn’t try all of them. My guest ordered Baked Jam Roly Poly with plum compote and crème anglaise (custard). This is an old-fashioned favourite and it’s good to see it return to even classy restaurant menus. This version was proclaimed to be particularly good.

Iberica Food and Culture

Michelin-starred executive chef of Iberica Food and Culture is Nacho Manzano, who cooks at his restaurant Casa Marcial in Asturias, in the top left-hand corner of Spain. He is especially well known for his fish cookery and for his new take on traditional dishes. He has become an international ambassador for Asturian cooking.

Head chef Santiago Guerrero is a charming young man from Madrid. He trained both in Spain and in England and has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain, as well as The Castle Hotel, Somerset and The Waterside Inn. Before joining Iberica Food and Culture he worked as the Executive Sous-chef and acting Head Chef at L’Albufera restaurant in London's Melia White House Hotel, voted best Spanish restaurant outside Spain by their Ministerio de Agricultura Caza y Pesca. Quite an accolade.

Iberica is truly a Spanish centre. There is the ever-popular tapas bar, a beautiful restaurant on the first floor, an art gallery on the landing, a wine niche for small events and presentations, and a deli. This might not be as big as Harrod’s Food Hall but it is stocked with the best of Spanish foods and ingredients, many of which can only be found in Spain or here at Iberica. It’s a measure of the respect with which this amazing establishment is regarded.

At Iberica's imposing 15-metre bar you can choose between fifty hot and cold 'pinchos' and 'tapas' served from 11.30am till late into the night. There are plenty of simple cold dishes, such as cheese and charcuterie platters, shellfish and vegetable salads, croquettes, sausages, tortillas, rices and main-courses which reflect some of what regional and new Spanish food has to offer.

You can linger at the bar with a glass of Spanish wine or enjoy leisurely tapas with a drink at a window table where you can watch London pass you by. Prices start at an amazingly reasonable £1.50 for potato omelette with alioli sauce. The staff can suggest wine and tapas pairings so you don’t need to be an expert on either Spanish food or drink. Help is at hand.

We started our lunch with the Trio of Ham. This meat was carved wafer thin from the whole hams displayed in the aforementioned deli. What could be more evocative of fine food from the peninsula? Ham Croquets and Cheese Croquets will be familiar to those who have enjoyed leisurely hours in celebrated tapas bars in Madrid or even Barcelona. These were creamy, rich and real Iberian comfort food.

Dried tuna ‘mojama’ with homemade thyme bread and almond vinaigrette was new to me. A charming presentation on a slate platter. It’s the attention to detail which sets this establishment above so many others. Quality and care.

Stewed beef cheeks in rioja red wine with creamy chickpea purée is a culinary stunner. This is a slow-cooked dish of tender and flavourful meat. The sauce is glossy and rich and deserving of bread to dip. A dish for a cold winter in London.

Fried fresh squid with alioli is one to fight over. The seafood was tender with breading that was crunchy and light. The garlic mayonnaise had plenty of punch and was a delicious foil for the delicate squid.

Black Rice with cuttlefish, prawns and alioli must be Iberica's signature dish. I have had black rice in the past but it’s never had either the colour or the flavour of this version. Most have been pale grey and pallid, while this had a truly inky teeth-blackening lacquered sheen. Seafood in every bite. A must-try.

Caleya´s caramelised rice pudding and Fried Milk were our dessert choices. They showed two diverse faces of dairy-based sweets. Both were creamy and rich but the textures were different. The Fried Milk was a cube of white, set cream in a crunchy golden crumb. A delight to eat. The rice pudding will be nothing like your mother makes... unless your mum happens to be Spanish and an amazing chef. This was a light cloud with a golden lining.

Iberica offers London's longest list of Spanish wines by the glass, ranging from classics such as Cava, sherry and Rioja to many that will be new to British clients. There is nothing worse than being obliged to buy a bottle of your favourite tipple when you can only drink a glass. The bar stocks a wide range of Spanish beer, cider, brandies, liqueurs, Castile's sweet and dry anis, and Galician aguardiente. An ideal spot to learn more about Spanish beverages of all kinds. They will also be happy to supply you with Asturian sparkling waters, coffee and tea if you need to work in the afternoon.

Lunch will allow you to graze your way through some of the best Tapas outside, or even inside, Spain but the evening experience of the first-floor Caleya restaurant shows another facet. This must surely be the address of choice for Spanish fine dining. The chef is the same but the dishes on offer allow chef Santiago to showcase a more formal side of this stylish establishment.

Start your evening as we did at the bar. Order a glass of sherry and try a few slices of the freshly carved ham. They have whole hams from acorn-fed pigs bred by small Spanish producers. It’s unlikely you’ll find better hams than this anywhere else in the UK. A Spaniard whose family breeds pigs told me that the hams here are the best she has come across.

Those hams, or slices of, can be found in the Iberica Deli, next to the restaurant on the ground floor. (Monday - Saturday: 11:30 a.m. - 7pm) If you can’t get to London to visit in person then you can now shop online at http://store.ibericalondon.com/

Caleya is cosy. That’s the first impression. Cosy but still stylish and thoughtfully decorated with paintings owned by the manager. Not scenes of Don Quixote and a donkey but contemporary cityscapes in sepia. Take some time to look at these pictures. Amazing.

If you want an overview of all that is contemporary Spanish cuisine then you could do worse than order the Tasting Menu. Each dish is chosen to present ingredients at their best and some of those ingredients, although traditional, are far from the usual fare found in most Spanish restaurants.

We were regaled with:
Warm salad of baby leeks and spinach, young carrots with chickpea mayonnaise served in a 'cocido' broth – attractive and delicious.

Wild mushrooms served with its jelly, beetroot and rocket leaves was the very essence of mushroom flavour.

Stewed belly of cod with sweet pepper consommé, pil-pil glaze was as much about texture as taste. Yes, there is the flavour of fish, but it’s delicate. The flesh is glutinous and comforting.

Grilled fillet of Turbot with sea-urchin sauce and sweet potato purée. Another dish presenting well-chosen ingredients in an inspired fashion.

Roasted shoulder of suckling Segovia lamb with herbs accompanied by mushrooms and green peas is slow-cooked to achieve tender meat - a dish to attempt to replicate at home.

Granita of mixed berries, lemon sorbet and meringue batons, along with Mousse of 'Jijona' nougat with light chocolate sponge and mandarin sorbet, make for a veritable buffet of sweet and summery delights. These are small plates to nibble and enjoy with a glass of dessert wine.

The menu changes with the seasons, so you'll be tasting the best, the freshest and the finest the market has to offer, whenever you visit.

Iberica Food and Culture is a culinary ambassador. It seems to take that role seriously. It takes pride in every aspect of its business, both culinary and cultural. It isn’t just a fine tapas bar and classy restaurant but an inspiring departure from our cooler climate. Iberica isn’t just Spanish, it’s Spain, and remarkable.

Tapas Bar
Monday-Saturday: 11:30am - 11pm     
Sunday:12 - 16 pm (paella menu)

Caleya restaurant
Tuesday-Saturday: 18:30 - 22:30
Sunday and Monday: Closed

Mestizo Restaurant

I had my first little peek at Mestizo last year. Just a cocktail and some nibbles but it was enough to give an indication that this was a spot to linger over and enjoy. A real meal was in order so off I went with guest in tow to see if that first impression was accurate, or merely an illusion encouraged by one too many of Mexico’s famous beverage.

You might say you like “Mexican” food. You might have had “Mexican” food on trips to the US, and Taco Bell might be your favourite fast food but, dear reader, your experience is probably a faint shadow of the real extravaganza awaiting you at Mestizo.

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar has a convenient location just around the corner from Euston Square Underground station, and a few minutes’ walk from Euston main-line station. Its atmosphere is of dark wood charm but the impressive bar hints at fun times to be had. This establishment has a collection of Tequilas (over 130 at last count) enough to make any London-based Mexican quite home-sick. The restaurant has a cult following amongst the local Brits and, evidently, expat Mexicans. That has got to be an indication of this restaurant’s authenticity. It already has the vote of those in the know.

Mestizo offers food that is hard or impossible to find outside Mexico. I wonder why these dishes haven’t had the exposure of other ethnic cuisines. It must be that Europe has only a slight cultural exchange with those countries that rest south of Texas and California. Mexican food has migrated to its neighbour to the North, but has often been adulterated in transit. Tex-Mex food might be vibrant and zesty but it isn’t a patch on food to be found south of the border.

We started our evening with cocktails. Mestizo Spice got our attention. This was an amazing concoction of Casco Viejo chilli-infused reposado tequila, cherry brandy, crushed strawberries, diced red chilli and lime. It’s a tall delicate pink drink with a kick. I am not a cocktail habitué but this particular recipe evoked all that’s impressive about Mestizo – good taste and style.

Our starter was a Mixed Antojitos Platter which was an assortment of flauta (crispy fried rolled tortillas filled with chicken and topped with lettuce, sour cream and green tomatillo salsa), quesadilla (corn pastries filled with cheese, served with sour cream and salsa roja), jalada jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese, served with sour cream) - don’t miss these -, and tamales (steamed corn husks filled with masa and pollo con mole) – an authentic taste of Mexican comfort food.

The Mestizo staff are charming and helpful. Several of them are Mexican and all of them can steer you through what will likely be an unfamiliar menu. Mole Poblano was my co-reviewer’s choice for main course. This is a classic dish of boneless chicken breast served with a traditional mole sauce made of dried chillies, herbs, spices, almonds and chocolate, served with beans and rice and some flour tortillas. Mestizo make all sauces, beans, condiments and salsas in-house. The tortillas, however, are produced by a specialist bakery, although Mestizo do make their own moreish tortilla chips. The chocolate sauce was savoury and well flavoured with a silky texture. An introduction to the subtleties of Mexican cuisine.

Mole Huasteco (a traditional dish from the state of Hidalgo, Mexico) was new to me. It’s a boneless chicken breast served with a huasteco sauce, made from over 32 ingredients, including dried chillies, tomatoes, onion, almonds, garlic, sesame and pumpkin seeds. This is a rich and aromatic dish with an almost liquorice or aniseed finish. This must surely be a signature dish. If you only expect to make one visit to Mestizo then order this.

Mestizo is a restaurant for convivial gatherings as well as intimate soirées. Many other guests had ordered the Taco Tray. This is for two or more and is evidently the meal of choice for groups or couples. It looks spectacular, like so many of Mestizo’s dishes, as well as being fun to eat. Perhaps a good ice-breaker on a first date.

The Mestizo desserts are worth saving a chink of space for. We ordered Flan Caresro which is the Mexican take on Crème Caramel. Light and sweet in a pool of caramel sauce. Pastel de Quesco y Coco is a cheesecake perfumed with coconut served with mango coulis. An exotic end to a memorable meal. I am sure it will turn out to be the first of many. The Sunday Brunch is said to be worth a visit. Mestizo is without a doubt one of my top five London restaurants.

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