Mostly Food Journal - Previous Restaurant Reviews


Updated 3rd September 2010

More restaurants added every week











Restaurant reviews

Roast for Breakfast
Iberica Food and Culture
Bentley’s Grill
Dehesa Charcuterie and Tapas Bar
Sanctum Soho Hotel’s No.20 Breakfast
Sunday Brunch at One Aldwych
Napket - Café
St Pancras Grand – Breakfast
Pear Tree Pub – Fulham
Heathrow Terminal 5 – Dining Destination
Mestizo Sunday Brunch with UNESCO support
Indigo Afternoon Tea - One Aldwych Hotel
The Elgin Food Pub and Music House – Notting Hill
Fire and Stone – Spitalfields

Moët Movies at Axis, One Aldwych
Brasserie One... and more
Gaucho by the River
The Lancaster London Hotel Peter Pan Afternoon Tea
Pinchito Tapas Restaurant, W1
Santo Mexican Restaurant
Freggo
Browns Covent Garden
Afternoon Tea at Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
Roast – the Restaurant
Ed’s Easy Diner, Euston Station
The Five Tuns – Terminal 5
Bob Bob Ricard for Afternoon Tea

Paradiso Restaurant - St. Christopher's Place
Iberica Food and Culture
Mestizo Restaurant
Tike Grill and Bar
Tortilla Mexican Grill
Loch Fyne restaurant Twickenham

Al Waha Lebanese restaurant
Haché Burger Connoisseurs Ltd
St Pancras Grand Restaurant
Madsen Scandinavian Restaurant
Toms Deli
The Mitre
Laya’Lina - Modern Lebanese Cuisine
Cookbook Cafe – Sunday Brunch
Le Colombier
The Howard, London, goes Chalet Chic!
Tatra Restaurant
Front Room at Flemings Mayfair
Theo Randall at the InterContinental
Stanza
Big Ben, London Bus and Afternoon Tea
Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar
Planet Hollywood
Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria
Le Lys du Liban – Aix en Provence
Tapas Bar Crawl
If you don’t know Ben’s then you ain’t from Noooo York!
Simply Baltic......but much more!
Flunch for Lunch?
Bavarian Beerhouse

Asian Restaurant reviews

Zeen
Chor Bizarre
The Cinnamon Club
Masala Zone Fulham
Soseki Japanese Restaurant
Itsu
Inamo Techno Restaurant
Taman Gang
Green Chilli Restaurant
Rasa Sayang
La Porte des Indes
Tsunami – Charlotte Street
Seasoning Restaurant
Chutney – The hidden gem of Euston
Kasturi Restaurant Fish Festival
Noodle Oodle
Piya Piya – Thai Restaurant
Satay House



Roast for Breakfast

We have been told, and I believe, that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We need to have fuel to catapult ourselves onto the unsuspecting world. We need to be energised and replete with foods that hopefully someone else has prepared. Breakfast away from home offers many advantages.

Britain was for many years dismissed as a culinary wasteland. A French friend even had the temerity to suggest that the reason we in the UK adopt the foods of other nations so readily is that we have no culinary heritage of our own. I begged to differ in strident fashion and the Gallic guy gets out of plaster on Bastille day. It’s more that we have rather overlooked our fine dishes and have always been overshadowed by our cousins across the Channel, who have had the knack of self-promotion. We should follow their example.
restaurant review

It’s breakfast that seems to catch the imagination of visitors to these shores. They suppose that we Brits eat a fried breakfast every day. Many of us wish we could, but the constraints of time, finances and waistline prevent a big fry-up from being anything other than a too-infrequent treat.

Roast in Borough Market offers very decent breakfasts. Yes, you will assume, dear reader, that the sausages will be superb and that the bacon will be memorable. Right on both counts. Roast has a great reputation for all things meaty. An evening meal here should not be passed up. But Roast has vegetables as well.

The Full Monty, Traditional English, and Big Fry-up are all the same thing. Substantial, delicious, moreish, tempting and meat-laden breakfasts. We wax lyrical about them because they are, from time to time, just what we crave. But how’s about vegetarians? Menus will offer vegetarian specials and non-meat options but they are often boring and almost always too worthy – fiddle-head fern cutlet and yak’s milk smoothie.

I am not a vegetarian, as I am by nature greedy. I love food in all its myriad guises so if for whatever reason I felt unable to eat meat, I would want to have the option of still enjoying the best food. So what about breakfast? Roast has a menu that embraces vegetarians, holds them close, says “There, there, you’re safe now” and presents them with a grown-up brekkie sans meat.

Try the Veggie Borough which includes a Veggie Borough banger, grilled tomatoes, field mushrooms, tattie restaurant reviewscone, wholemeal toast and your choice of eggs. Now, that’s what I call a real breakfast that just happens not to include meat. Those veggie bangers are substantial sausages made of vegetables and grains. The texture is hearty and firm, and they’re full of herby flavour.

If your mind is set on somewhat lighter fare then you could do worse than a 3-egg omelette. These are fluffy and flecked with the fresh green of chives. Neal’s Yard Cheddar cheese, field mushrooms and herbs, or Smoked trout are your veggie options. A side order of bubble ‘n’ squeak might be tempting but remember it’s fried in beef dripping. For my overseas readers I should explain that this confection is a traditional Monday dish made from left-over potatoes and greens from the Sunday lunch. Patties of these crushed vegetables are seasoned and then fried till slightly browned. Delightfully comforting and rustic.

There are plenty of lighter items for vegetarians to graze upon. Toasted cottage loaf with a selection of restaurant reviewEnglish preserves, fresh fruit salad, muesli with Earl Grey prunes and yoghurt for the more health-conscious. Also Scott’s porridge oats with a jug of cream for the colder mornings. Two boiled eggs with Marmite soldiers for those with a taste for the finer things in life. Gypsy toast with stewed cranberries, bananas, pistachios and soured cream. Kippers with lemon and butter. Smoked trout with scrambled eggs.

The Full Borough is the meal of choice for the carnivore of the species. High-quality ingredients to remind us of why the most celebrated of British meals is still so popular. Ramsay smoked streaky bacon, Cumberland sausages, fried bread, Ramsay of Carluke black pudding, grilled tomatoes, field mushrooms, bubble ‘n’ squeak and your choice of egg, poached, fried or scrambled.

Roast has an appealing early-morning ambiance. Its prices are reasonable for such an establishment. The ingredients are well-chosen and the finest of their type, from the jams and preserves to the sausages and bacon. Breakfast isn’t a meal to be rushed. This is a departure from your usual routine. Order some Roast special-blend English breakfast tea instead of your mug of instant coffee. Indulge in a generous cooked breakfast prepared by chefs who are more awake than you are. Relax and read the morning papers rather than scraping the toast over the kitchen sink. In other words, enjoy!

Breakfast Menu
Monday - Friday 7.00am - 11:00am
Saturday 8.00am - 11:30am

Roast, The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL.

Reservations and Enquiries: 0845 034 7300
Fax: 0845 034 7301
Email: feedback@roast-restaurant.com
Visit Roast here

mostly food journal

Iberica Food and Culture

Michelin-starred executive chef of Iberica Food and Culture is Nacho Manzano, who cooks at his restaurant Casa Marcial in Asturias, in the top left-hand corner of Spain. He is especially well known for his fish cookery and for his new take on traditional dishes. He has become an international ambassador for Asturian cooking.

Head chef Santiago Guerrero is a charming young man from Madrid. He trained both in Spain and in England restaurant review Ibericaand has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain, as well as The Castle Hotel, Somerset and The Waterside Inn. Before joining Iberica Food and Culture he worked as the Executive Sous-chef and acting Head Chef at L’Albufera restaurant in London's Melia White House Hotel, voted best Spanish restaurant outside Spain by their Ministerio de Agricultura Caza y Pesca. Quite an accolade.

Iberica is truly a Spanish centre. There is the ever-popular tapas bar, a beautiful restaurant on the first floor, an art gallery on the landing, a wine niche for small events and presentations, and a deli. This might not be as big as Harrod’s Food Hall but it is stocked with the best of Spanish foods and ingredients, many of which can only be found in Spain or here at Iberica. It’s a measure of the respect with which this amazing establishment is regarded.

At Iberica's imposing 15-metre bar you can choose between fifty hot and cold 'pinchos' and 'tapas' served from 11.30am till late into the night. There are plenty of simple cold dishes, such as cheese and charcuterie platters, shellfish and vegetable salads, croquettes, sausages, tortillas, rices and main-courses which reflect some of what regional and new Spanish food has to offer.

You can linger at the bar with a glass of Spanish wine or enjoy leisurely tapas with a drink at a window table where you can watch London pass you by. Prices start at an amazingly reasonable £1.50 for potato omelette with alioli sauce. The staff can suggest wine and tapas pairings so you don’t need to be an expert on either Spanish food or drink. Help is at hand.

We started our lunch with the Trio of Ham. This meat was carved wafer thin from the whole hams displayed in the aforementioned deli. What could be more evocative of fine food from the peninsula? Ham Croquets and Cheese Croquets will be familiar to those who have enjoyed leisurely hours in celebrated tapas bars in Madrid or even Barcelona. These were creamy, rich and real Iberian comfort food.

Dried tuna ‘mojama’ with homemade thyme bread and almond vinaigrette was new to me. A charming presentation on a slate platter. It’s the attention to detail which sets this establishment above so many others. Quality and care.

Stewed beef cheeks in rioja red wine with creamy chickpea purée is a culinary stunner. This is a slow-cooked dish of tender and flavourful meat. The sauce is glossy and rich and deserving of bread to dip. A dish for a cold winter in London.

Fried fresh squid with alioli is one to fight over. The seafood was tender with breading that was crunchy and light. The garlic mayonnaise had plenty of punch and was a delicious foil for the delicate squid.

Black Rice with cuttlefish, prawns and alioli must be Iberica's signature dish. I have had black rice in the past but it’s never had either the colour or the flavour of this version. Most have been pale grey and pallid, while this had a truly inky teeth-blackening lacquered sheen. Seafood in every bite. A must-try.

Caleya´s caramelised rice pudding and Fried Milk were our dessert choices. They showed two diverse faces of dairy-based sweets. Both were creamy and rich but the textures were different. The Fried Milk was a cube of white, set cream in a crunchy golden crumb. A delight to eat. The rice pudding will be nothing like your mother makes... unless your mum happens to be Spanish and an amazing chef. This was a light cloud with a golden lining.

Iberica offers London's longest list of Spanish wines by the glass, ranging from classics such as Cava, sherry and Rioja to many that will be new to British clients. There is nothing worse than being obliged to buy a bottle of your favourite tipple when you can only drink a glass. The bar stocks a wide range of Spanish beer, cider, brandies, liqueurs, Castile's sweet and dry anis, and Galician aguardiente. An ideal spot to learn more about Spanish beverages of all kinds. They will also be happy to supply you with Asturian sparkling waters, coffee and tea if you need to work in the afternoon.

Lunch will allow you to graze your way through some of the best Tapas outside, or even inside, Spain but the evening experience of therestaurant review first-floor Caleya restaurant shows another facet. This must surely be the address of choice for Spanish fine dining. The chef is the same but the dishes on offer allow chef Santiago to showcase a more formal side of this stylish establishment.

Start your evening as we did at the bar. Order a glass of sherry and try a few slices of the freshly carved ham. They have whole hams from acorn-fed pigs bred by small Spanish producers. It’s unlikely you’ll find better hams than this anywhere else in the UK. A Spaniard whose family breeds pigs told me that the hams here are the best she has come across.

Those hams, or slices of, can be found in the Iberica Deli, next to the restaurant on the ground floor. (Monday - Saturday: 11:30 a.m. - 7pm) If you can’t get to London to visit in person then you can now shop online at http://store.ibericalondon.com/

Caleya is cosy. That’s the first impression. Cosy but still stylish and thoughtfully decorated with paintings owned by the manager. Not scenes of Don Quixote and a donkey but contemporary cityscapes in sepia. Take some time to look at these pictures. Amazing.

If you want an overview of all that is contemporary Spanish cuisine then you could do worse than order the Tasting Menu. Each dish is chosen to present ingredients at their best and some of those ingredients, although traditional, are far from the usual fare found in most Spanish restaurants.

We were regaled with:
Warm salad of baby leeks and spinach, young carrots with chickpea mayonnaise served in a 'cocido' broth – attractive and delicious.

Wild mushrooms served with its jelly, beetroot and rocket leaves was the very essence of mushroom flavour.restaurant review

Stewed belly of cod with sweet pepper consommé, pil-pil glaze was as much about texture as taste. Yes, there is the flavour of fish, but it’s delicate. The flesh is glutinous and comforting.

Grilled fillet of Turbot with sea-urchin sauce and sweet potato purée. Another dish presenting well-chosen ingredients in an inspired fashion.

Roasted shoulder of suckling Segovia lamb with herbs accompanied by mushrooms and green peas is slow-cooked to achieve tender meat - a dish to attempt to replicate at home.

Granita of mixed berries, lemon sorbet and meringue batons, along with Mousse of 'Jijona' nougat with light chocolate sponge and mandarin sorbet, make for a veritable buffet of sweet and summery delights. These are small plates to nibble and enjoy with a glass of dessert wine.

The menu changes with the seasons, so you'll be tasting the best, the freshest and the finest the market has to offer, whenever you visit.

Iberica Food and Culture is a culinary ambassador. It seems to take that role seriously. It takes pride in every aspect of its business, both culinary and cultural. It isn’t just a fine tapas bar and classy restaurant but an inspiring departure from our cooler climate. Iberica isn’t just Spanish, it’s Spain, and remarkable.

Tapas Bar
Monday-Saturday: 11:30am - 11pm     
Sunday:12 - 16 pm (paella menu)

Caleya restaurant
Tuesday-Saturday: 18:30 - 22:30
Sunday and Monday: Closed

Iberica Food and Culture
195 Great Portland Street, London W1W 5PS.
Phone: 0207 6368650
Emailana@ibericalondon.co.uk
Visit Iberica here
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Bentley’s Grill

A restaurant anywhere that has endured for 94 years or so must be worth visiting. A restaurant of that vintage in London should have statues erected and probably have its own anthem. Not sure what that might be, but perhaps “When Irish eyes are smiling.”

Bentley’s welcomed its first guests in 1916. One commiserates with those who have recently openedlondon restaurant review restaurants in the Capital in the teeth of a recession, but one can only wonder at the emotions of Messrs Bentley dealing with the First World War with its fear and privations. Even more sobering when one considers there was another War to end all Wars a couple of decades down the line.

The Bentleys owned some oyster beds near Colchester so it was a natural progression to own a restaurant to serve the shellfish. Oysters were not always the luxury product they are today. Henry Mayhew, the celebrated Victorian social historian, commented that “The number of oysters sold by the costermongers (street vendors) amounts to 124,000,000 a year.” Oysters had a higher fiscal profile by the turn of the century but the Bentleys hedged their culinary bets with the first-floor dining rooms. They were still going strong when in 1961 young restaurant critic Egon Ronay wrote: “The two Mr Bentleys are not only excellent restaurateurs; they are also oyster farmers who sell their delicious produce all over the country.”

The restaurant is no longer owned by the Bentley family but it still has the same name and location. The same beautiful striking Victorian building in Swallow Street. It is now thankfully part-pedestrianised allowing a front terrace of traffic-free calm just a few yards from the ever-frantic Piccadilly. The facade has been described as both Arts and Crafts and Italianate and it’s charming, but the interior beckoned, and it lived up to the promise that the outside had offered.

Irish-born Richard Corrigan is an easily recognisable figure and much taller than he seems on television (mental note to self – buy a bigger TV). Richard spent four years cooking in the Netherlands before becoming head chef of Mulligan’s in Mayfair. His first Michelin star was awarded at Stephen Bull’s Blandford Street restaurant in 1994. Richard launched the Lindsay House in Soho in 1997 and was awarded a Michelin star. That restaurant has now moved to Upper Grosvenor Street as “Corrigan’s".
london restaurant review

In 2005 Richard seized the chance to restore Bentley’s to its former glory when it came up for sale, and in November that same year the doors were opened again. The old restaurant had been refurbished but retains much of the original Arts and Crafts style. It still serves oysters, fish and seafood as well as meat dishes and classic puds. In 2008 Richard expanded the Bentley's empire with a sister restaurant, Bentley's Townhouse, in the heart of Dublin on St Stephen's Green.

The ground floor of Bentley’s London (there is a well-appointed basement room for private dining) welcomes one with a marble topped bar, red upholstered booths and oil paintings. The oyster bar nestles behind that bar but I left it for another visit. The first-floor Grill had a table with my name on it. A light and airy room with William Morris prints and panelled walls - the original features have been preserved in furnishings and textiles.

Open for lunch and dinner, the upper-storey Grill is divided into the Grill Room (36 covers), Rib Room (34 covers) and the Crustacea Room (14 covers). We settled by the window of the Grill Room and perused the menu. Bentley’s has its own bakery and patisserie so we were assured of moreish nibbles when the anchovy straws and bread arrived.


The menu changes frequently and
has its focus on fresh and seasonal ingredients with providence. Their fish is sourced as locally as possible (no, not from the Thames) and is fully traceable, often back to individual fishing boats. Both Bentley’s and Corrigan’s support small farming and fishing communities, with consideration for sustainability on both land and sea. They source produce like smoked salmon from Frank Hedderman in Ireland, and finest West Cork beef. Richard sits on the UK Advisory Board of the Slow Food Movement, which has been championed by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, promoting their philosophy of good, fair food.

The oyster bar is on the ground floor but those same oysters are also here on the restaurant menu. Maldon
london restaurant review Natives, Loch Ryan Natives sound like groups of extras from “Gangs of New York”. The Shellfish Platter here is the sort of elevated confection more reminiscent of St. Tropez than Soho. Magnificent in all its piled and draped glory. For those anxious carnivores fine lamb and mixed grills are also available.

It’s a restaurant famed for all things piscatorial though, so my choices reflected that. I started with Stuffed Baby Squid with Chorizo and Organic Feta. Squid and this spicy, paprika-laden sausage is a classic combination and the version here illustrated why it has remained so popular. A dish of tender cephalopod and flavourful light broth. Fresh tastes and delightful texture.

The fish pie at Bentley’s is famed, and a legend with those in the know. A fish pie can be both comforting and luxurious, but a triumph or an unmitigated disaster. Royal Fish Pie with lobster (its head as garnish), scallops, haddock and tiger prawns is a high-end example of a perennial favourite. The mashed potato crust was golden and flecked with deeper colour hiding a bubbling and creamy sauce with chunks of seafood. This might not be the cheapest fish pie you’ll ever have but I’d venture to say that it might be the most memorable. A side dish of spinach completed my main course, added more for colour than gastronomic necessity.

Save room for a dessert. Steamed Apple Sponge and Custard, or Fig Roll and Saffron Ice Cream could be on offer, or perhaps some Wild Damson and Blackberry Trifle. If you prefer some more savouries then go for the cheeseboard which could be St. Eadburgha, Leagram’s Mature Lancashire, Colston Bassett, Oat Cookies and Dates. I just needed something to keep the dessert wine company, and Bentley’s Petits Fours took my fancy. A selection of miniature tarts, chocolates and caramels made on the premises. It was a shame to dismantle such an attractive presentation... but I managed.

Bentley’s was all I had hoped it to be. The best food, attentive service and elegant surroundings. I’ll return to enjoy oysters on the ground floor... although that Grill Room is enticing.

Opening Times

Oyster & Champagne Bar
Monday – Saturday 12pm to 12midnight
Sunday 12pm to 10pm

The Grill
Monday - Saturday
Lunch 12pm to 3pm
Dinner 6pm to 11pm

Sunday
Dinner 6pm to 10pm

Bentleys Oyster Bar and Grill
11-15 Swallow Street, London W1B 4DG

Phone: +44 (0)20 7734 4756
Fax: +44 (0)20 7758 4140
Email: reservations@bentleys.org

mostly food journal

Dehesa Charcuterie and Tapas Bar

Dehesa is a charcuterie and tapas bar which draws on the cuisines of both Spain and Italy. Not so surprising when you consider the tradition of Antipasti and cured meats in Italy. Dehesa opened in January 2008 and is the sister restaurant to the highly regarded Salt Yard. But what is a Dehesa? It’s a wooded restaurant reviewarea in Spain which is home to the Ibérico pigs, famed for their hams.

This small restaurant presents the acceptable face of rustic. Wooden tables still retain a refined edge when
garnished with Prawns a la Plancha with Saffron Potatoes and glasses of light fino sherry. The whole hams on the counter add to the ambiance which is more reminiscent of similar establishments in Barcelona or Madrid than just around the corner from Liberty’s.

Anchovies, almonds and caperberries started our lunch. And indeed the aforementioned fino was our choice of “beverage”, as our American friends would charmingly describe our libations. We were joined by suited regulars as well as a few Japanese tourists. No table reservations here so those in the know come early. Platters of wafer-thin ham were unsurprisingly popular although my preference has always been for the cooked tapas. This is grazing food but you’ll not leave hungry. Order a plate of this, a little of that, try the Padrón peppers - these innocent little vegetables are for the most part mild but there are a few which are unexpectedly fierce.

We chose Salt Cod Croquetas with Romesco sauce. This is a common tapas dish but shouldn’t be restaurant reviewoverlooked. The fish has a particular and distinctive taste which I have always found appealing. Salt cod is favoured throughout Spain but also in Southern France. It’s laborious to prepare at home so take advantage when someone else has done the work. This is the finest of comfort food.

Ham Croquetas are made from the last cuts of whole hams. These were exceptional in having a considerable amount of cured meat inside, not the usual sparsely-distributed fine shreds more often associated with this dish. It’s a tapas-bar staple, and unbeatable when done well.

Chorizo a la Plancha offered nuggets of well-flavoured sausage. The red paprika-infused oil cried out to be mopped with a chunk of country bread.

Courgette Flowers with Monte Enebro and Honey were delicate and sweet with a salty tang from the goat’s cheese. A classic and classy dish made from young vegetables fried in a light batter.
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There are puds aplenty at Dehesa and there are wine pairing suggestions, but we chose to stick with the savouries. Perhaps I should say that we opted for both sweet and savoury in the guise of three Manchegos with membrillo. The cheeses were of different ages, textures and flavours and made for a fascinating tasting platter along with the cubes of quince jelly.

Dehesa offers small and varied dishes of delicious foods which are ideal for sharing. Visit with friends and order three dishes each. Some cheese, a plate of ham, a couple of fish dishes, perhaps some grilled lamb. If you have chosen your companions with the same care as Dehesa chooses its ingredients then a perfect evening will be assured.

Opening Times: Tapas
Mon – Fri: 12 - 3pm / 5 - 11pm
Sat: 12 - 11pm
Sun: 12 - 5pm

Charcuterie, Cheese and Bar Snacks are served all day.

Brunch specials available  
Sat: 12pm - 3pm
Sun: 12pm - 5pm

25 Ganton Street, London W1F 9BP
Phone: +44 (0) 20 7494 4170
Email: info@dehesa.co.uk
Visit Dehesa here
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Sanctum Soho Hotel’s No.20 Restaurant for Breakfast

Sanctum Soho Hotel is in the heart of London’s West End. Two Georgian townhouses have been converted into a striking 30-bedroom boutique hotel. It’s right between Regent Street and the iconic Carnaby Street, now lined with trendy clothes shops rather than the ethnic emporia of the 60s. The dark wood doors of Sanctum welcome the visitor to a small lobby and then into a bright and unique restaurant called no.20. Well, the hotel address is 20 Warwick Street so I guess that name is no surprise. Sanctum Soho is the brainchild of Concept Venues’ Mark Fuller. That company specialises in classy establishments in London, outside the capital and beyond these shores.

The restaurant interior is designed by Lesley Purcell and it’s a vision in almost 1940s style, oak floors and london restaurant reviewred columns decorated with glowing glass rods. Gold leather-buttoned banquettes and dark maroon patent crocodile-upholstered chairs seat the dining area guests, while plush crimson fabrics await those prefering to linger by the bar. No. 20 has 60 covers but the design assures privacy. The restaurant presents just a hint of the theme of the hotel in general: Glamour. This hotel just cries out to have guests from the A-list and ‘names’ looking for a central retreat.

We were there for breakfast and settled ourselves comfortably behind a large linen-laden table. It’s the best and most important meal of the day and it was comforting to find sensible breakfast foods. Heinz Baked Beans are not often seen on smart menus but here they were and I was pleased to see that. At least this restaurant takes note of what people really eat in the mornings. Bagel with Lox and Cream Cheese always makes a great breakfast and I am sure guests from New York will appreciate their inclusion.

A stack of Buttermilk Pancakes, Bacon and Maple Syrup was my guest’s choice. The combination of sweet and salty - fluffy pancakes and crispy bacon - contrasting tastes and textures, is always satisfying, and at
London resturant review its best when made by someone other than oneself at such an early hour.

I ordered the Continental Breakfast. This was not the typical French breakfast which most often consists of a croissant or, always to my horror, French bread and butter dunked into hot milky coffee. A big café crème is a welcome start to the day, but sans globules of grease from the aforementioned buttered French stick.

Thankfully the continental morning repast at No.20 nods to those European countries to the north and east of La Belle France, where a more substantial spread is the norm. I started with granola, said to be toasted
at those very No.20 coordinates, and it was a substantial helping. Next was a plate of three cheeses and cured meats. When I say london restaurant review‘plate’ I mean a dinner plate! Fresh fruit was also part of my selection and it was delivered on a twin of the previous platter. Apple, berries, oranges made a colourful tapestry and added a noble and healthy air to the meal. This uncharacterisic consideration for fitness did not last long, as croissants also had my name on them.

No.20 is an attractive restaurant with a menu which offers something for everyone. Plenty for those who treat their bodies as temples, lots for those with moderate appetites, and the rest of us can graze on tempting traditional fry-ups and sweet treats. The prices are reasonable for such a location and Sanctum offers a memorable experience, with the possibility of your morning toast being delivered by a waitress who might shortly be serving a rock star. It’s that kind of place. I’ll be back for dinner.

No. 20 restaurant opening hours:
Monday to Saturday 6.30am - 11.00am
Sunday 7.00am - 11.00am

Sanctum Soho Hotel, 20 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NF

Tel: +44 (0)207 292 6102
Fax: +44 (0)207 434 3074
Email: info@sanctumsoho.com
Email: no.20@sanctumsoho.com

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Sunday Brunch at Indigo restaurant – One Aldwych

One Aldwych has one of the best locations in London. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of the capital London restaurant reviewin Covent Garden, that neighbourhood being famed as the backdrop for My Fair Lady. It’s a stone’s throw from the River Thames and all the iconic sights of old London.

The hotel is nestled between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from more than a dozen celebrated theatres as well as the world-famous Royal Opera House. It is considered a noteworthy Edwardian building and is now protected by English Heritage. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.

This stylish hotel is the lodging of choice for many a visitor from beyond these shores. It’s prized for being just around the corner from so many places of interest but it also caters for those who are not staying but just passing through. Guests who drop in for a meal and even for some entertainment in the small but well-appointed cinema next to Axis, One Aldwych’s other restaurant.

It was a bright Sunday afternoon and we were in the mood for brunch. Indigo at One Aldwych offers a striking restaurant, a calming ambiance and a thoughtful menu. It’s a small enough restaurant to feel intimate, and casual enough for you to feel comfortable meandering through the Sunday colour supplements.

Our fellow brunchers comprised a few who were evidently hotel guests lingering over the papers and breakfast, but also some regulars from across the Pond. The staff were bombarded with requests for dishes which were almost but not quite on the menu. A ham omelette sans ham – the guest would like that on the side. Some goat cheese - that wasn’t even on the menu but there was a promise that the restaurant would find some. These requests were fielded with courtesy, charm and a willingness to please. I was warming to Indigo and we hadn’t even ordered yet.

Indigo offers soup, salads, on-toast items, mains, desserts, and any two courses of the above with unlimited Prosecco for only £24. That sounded like outstanding value but the food has to be good. The Soup of the Day was watercress and it was the most vibrant and light of its kind that my guest and I hadlondon restaurant review ever seen.  It was delicately garnished with oil and crème fraiche and served with a selection of breads.

Some folks expect a roast on Sundays and Indigo offers that in an interesting fashion. A roast beef salad with watercress, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce. It’s a light alternative to the traditional Sunday lunch, but my fancy on this occasion was Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions on Toast. This simple dish was a small culinary triumph of both texture and taste. The fungi were cooked to perfection and still held their original contours. The large field mushrooms added substance and the onions were sweetly moreish. A very good start.

Other items on the Toast menu included Welsh Rarebit and Scotch Woodcock. A word or two by way of explanation: Welsh Rarebit is not a bunny from Wales but is a dish of seasoned melted cheese on toast, sometimes containing a dash of ale and/or Worcester Sauce. Scotch Woodcock isn’t a highland game-bird but a savoury dish consisting of scrambled eggs served on toast that has been spread with something tangy like anchovy paste or Gentleman's Relish. Yes, a British menu can confound the visitor.

Kedgeree has been a breakfast favourite since Queen Victoria and the days of the old Raj. An Anglo-Indian
london restaurant reviewpreparation of seasoned rice, hard-boiled eggs and smoked haddock. It’s often dry and uninteresting but the version at Indigo has been tweaked into a moist and flavourful dish which, although still holding to its roots, was somewhat elevated. The rice had a rich yellow hue from spices and had the consistency of an Italian risotto. The eggs were quails’ and the grilled haddock was perched on top rather than finding itself broken into petals and mixed with the rice. A more refined presentation, and a delicious take on a classic British favourite.

Other dishes at Indigo also warrant mentions. The Crab and Chilli Risotto is a flavourful preparation and well worth trying. A creamy texture with a subtle suspicion of chilli. Plenty of seafood and an attractive coral colour. If you are a lover of more substantial fare then consider the Fish Pie which was well received by guests on the adjoining table and was a substantial serving.
london restaurant review

Desserts tend to be a treat. Very few of us have the time to prepare a sweet during the week .Sunday brunch at Indigo offers the ideal opportunity to have a leisurely meal with a decadent finale. The brownies here were popular; the Banana Split came highly recommended and it was indeed the sort of pud that would make any diner feel like a kid again. Soft bananas with a crunchy sugar crust, chocolate and vanilla ice cream and fruit. Two spoons and a couple of cups of espresso and we were replete, complete and ready for the week.

Indigo at One Aldwich is an overlooked treasure. Grab a table on the balcony above the Lobby Bar. Enjoy the views from the magnificent dark wood-framed windows. Take a couple of hours to unwind and remember why Sundays were invented. Indigo does it well. Amazing value for money.

One Aldwych
1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH
Tel: 020 7300 0400
Fax: 020 7300 0401
Email: indigo@onealdwych.com
Visit One Aldwych here
mostly food journal

Napket - Café, Canteen, Tearoom, Restaurant

On Saturday 11 July 2009 Napket launched its largest flagship café at 61 Piccadilly, W1.  With its position restaurant reviewclose to The Ritz and Old Bond Street, the stylish Napket Piccadilly has cult designer Peter Van Hooreweghe to thank for its striking interior. Such a location deserves a memorable treatment. No, it’s not trying to be the Ritz but Napket does contrive to be something out of the ordinary.

Seating up to 70 guests, the dramatic and eclectic space offers a melange of vintage elegance and industrial buzz. Sporting huge grey-glass Murano chandeliers and black-painted baroque chairs it is truly striking in a rather posh French fashion. That expression of pricey charm extends only up to pelmet height where the techie urban pipes and conduits take hold, with a few nice swathes of exposed brickwork.

It’s true that Napket is a small chain but it has the quirky feel of a one-off independent. This branch is unique in that it offers table service to guests visiting for breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner. Table service is also available for weekend brunch, with morning dishes the likes of Eggs Benedict and Napket Omelettes. The popular lunch spread is solely self-service throughout. It is also the first of the Napket stable to offer an evening dinner menu with wine.

We were there for lunch and its popularity was evident. Its Piccadilly address would obviously help trade restaurant reviewbut there were plenty of regulars here, and Napket has a raft of competition. It’s the food that draws the punters back. It’s rumoured that there are 20 varieties of speciality Pound Cakes here, so we grabbed a slice of Banana Loaf. Moist and moreish, it had all the credentials of homemade. But a slice of indulgent sweetness does not a lunch make.

My guest ordered a cup of soup from the station just by the front door. The same chef was offering toasted sandwiches and there were several generously-topped pizzas on this cold and wet summer day. The packaging is designed to be not only visually appealing in stark black with gold Napket logo, but practical for both eat-in and take-out. Consequently the soup was ladled into a large paper cup.

The salad bar here is becoming legendary. The choice is wide and the portions are huge, although I found the white marker-written salad menu rather confusing. This place caters for the salad connoisseurs. There is an extensive range of meats, leaves, vegetables and dressings to select from so your salad is made to order before your very eyes, and you have nobody but yourself to blame if your combination is bizarre or boring. The queue here was rather long but we had arrived at the busiest time and the bespoke nature of the salads encourages a slower turn-round than picking plastic from a shelf. The salad bar closes at 3 so ideal for those who have been kept in over lunch by the boss.

My Caesar salad was enough for two hungry diners and was full of the good stuff. No skimping here. restaurant reviewChicken, bacon, mixed leaves, Parmesan cheese and dressing were all there in abundance to the extent that my eat-in lunch morphed into a take-out supper. OK, so the plastic ‘silverware’ didn’t tick any boxes for me but it’s practical and the tables are cleared at top speed. I didn’t see any lingering debris.

My companion was taken with the chilled smoothies and opted for Immunity, which was a thick concoction of apple, mango and banana. It was pronounced delicious and possibly a worthy lunch substitute for those on the go.

Napket Piccadilly offers something for everyone. Whilst it’s not the cheapest option on the block it’s also true to say that you get what you pay for in both quality and quantity of food, as well as ambiance. I have visited for morning coffee when the café was tranquil and the staff attentive. The lunch hours are vibrant and the tables packed. Not sure what the evening might bring but I am sufficiently impressed to want to return.

Napket
61 Piccadilly, London W1J 0DY
Phone: 020 7493 4704
Email: 61@napket.com

Open
8am – 11pm

cookbook review

St Pancras Grand – Breakfast

It’s one of Britain’s most celebrated buildings and doubtless the most stunning of Victorian stations. restaurant review
St Pancras has it all. Original brickwork and sweeping iron beams framing huge windows. A bustling terminus welcoming travellers from both home and away, and bidding bon voyage to those off to the Continent or elsewhere in Britain. It has marvellous facilities for the comfort of those souls.

Early Friday morning found us rubbing shoulders with the thronging masses of commuters and holiday-makers. Slightly limp shirts, briefcases, panama hats and posh frocks adorned the bodies waiting for trains, for friends, for family and for food. No need to go hungry here, and the choice of eating establishments is extensive.

One finds the usual selection of Costabucks and Sarnie Salons on the ground floor. All reasonable quality food I am sure, and just what you want when looking for portable snacks and drinks. But take the escalator to the first floor and discover somewhere that could well become your regular pit-stop. It certainly has become mine.

St Pancras Grand is just the style of restaurant that one would seek out when in Paris, but here it is and it’s ours. At first glance one might expect a breakfast here to be something just for the occasional treat.
restaurant reviewWell, think again. A tasty savoury and unlimited tea will cost less than £7; the ambiance is free of charge. Compare that to a single cup of coffee and a muffin elsewhere and you’ll agree it’s an attractive alternative. Visually and financially.

The Grand English breakfast is just that. It’s the full works and bound to be a favourite with those waiting to board the Eurostar to France. This restaurant will get you in the mood. You have a view of your iron horse while you savour your eggs and bacon and all those other items which make the fry-up truly Grand.

Many of those Eurostar travellers are celebrating. Breakfast at St Pancras Grand offers the most stylish start to the trip. Smoked salmon, scrambled eggs, toast, tea and coffee are joined by a chilled and sparkling glass of Pommery Brut Royal NV. You can order a glass of fizz with any breakfast dish, even boiled eggs and soldiers.
restaurant review

Eggs Benedict is often my breakfast of choice ...when someone else is cooking. It’s a comforting yet classy dish and done very well here. Buttery Hollandaise sauce coating eggs poached to yolk-flowing perfection, several slices of ham, and toasted English muffin made a rich and sustaining start to the day.

My guest has a blokey appetite for substantial breakfast nosh, and the sausage sandwich took his fancy. Simple fare relies on quality ingredients for its success and these Cumberland sausages were pronounced flavourful and meaty. The bread was a soft roll which made for easy eating and both brown and tomato sauces were served on the side. Only a Philistine would attempt to devour a sausage sandwich without such condiments.

If you are en route to La Belle France then you might want to consider a Continental breakfast. There are all the components on the menu to provide a light repast. Fruit juice, a Danish pastry and some coffee could fit the bill. The pastries are warm and buttery and melt-in-the-mouth.  A bowl (it's a large bowl) of Greek yoghurt with a jug of honey is probably healthier.
restaurant reviewHomemade granola with berries also comes highly recommended, although porridge might be in favour during the colder months.

St Pancras Grand is affordable luxury. It’s surprisingly good value for money for such a stylish and comfortable restaurant. Come in time to allow for a long leisurely breakfast. Bring the morning paper and sit back and enjoy. It’s tranquil, unhurried, and pampering at a decent price. Visit when you are travelling from St Pancras or Kings Cross, which is just across the road.

Opening times:
7am - 11pm daily,
9am - 11pm Sunday

Restaurant review: St Pancras Grand Restaurant,
St Pancras International Station
Upper Concourse, Euston Road
London NW1 2QP
Phone: 020 7870 9900
Visit St Pancras Grand here
mostly food journal

Pear Tree Pub – Fulham

That nasty Mr. Hitler did a good job of destroying iconic and untouched Victorian pubs. That was in the restaurant reviewearly 1940s so there were plenty around and probably most in their original condition. We saw, or at least those of us of a certain age did, the modernisation of Britain in the 1960s. Some changes were indeed improvements. I for one am always driven to a warm glow of appreciation when I see central heating radiators, and I have long felt that electricity has advantages. Other changes were faddy, though. In homes, panelled doors had white painted sheets of plywood affixed and marvellously turned banisters were boxed in. The same was true of pubs and I have no idea how the Pear Tree has escaped such treatment.

It’s a work in progress but Lulu and Daren, the new proprietors, are re-invigorating this 1840s pub with the respect it’s due. It might well benefit from the planned tweaking but I trust that’s where the tinkering will
restaurant reviewfinish. This building must have coined the term “many original features”. They are here in charming abundance. Nothing has been gentrified and what seems original is indeed just that. The D-shaped bar is a gem of slatted wood; stained glass, fireplaces and lamps all contrive to create the epitome of cosy.

The Pear Tree sports a back room and a beer garden which was much appreciated by some regulars on this hot summer evening. And there in the middle was the eponymous pear tree, boughs bending under the weight of fruit which will eventually be transformed into chutney to grace the cheese board.

That condiment is bound to be delicious as Chef Sean knows what he is doing. He has worked with a Michelin-star chef and spent some time living and working in France. His food is however, solid, sensible and reflects British culinary values. Fresh ingredients and well-cooked. Un-fussy plates of real food.

It was a Friday night and most of the tables were occupied. The Pear Tree might only have been under new management for a matter of months but the kitchen has already won an enviable reputation amongst the locals. In fact the pub in general is attracting a different clientele from the former habitués. It was considered a rather blokey spit-and-sawdust establishment but now the new followers include more women and couples. Most are still locals or those working in the nearby Charing Cross Hospital.

The chef recommended the celebrated Scotch Eggs. He said he was considering changing the recipe slightly
restaurant review but I’d say if it ain't broke don’t fix it. The crust was crunchy and the usual sausage meat was replaced by a mix which included black pudding. This might be off-putting to the uninitiated and that would be a shame. I find black pudding alone to be moreish and delicious, and I am now a convert to a melange of sausage and pud.

The main dishes offered some standard favourites as well as a few Continental nods. Grilled Fillet of Sea Bass served with Ratatouille or the Beetroot and Goats Cheese Risotto might be my choice on my next visit but it was Friday night after all and so Fish and Chips were the order of the day. A simple dish but done well with the beer batter remaining crisp till the last bite and the haddock steaming to opaque perfection in its golden coating. Hand-cut chunky chips from Maris Piper spuds were a worthy accompaniment.

The Aberdeen Angus Beef Burger at the Pear Tree is famed and was my companion’s choice. He proclaimed the meat to be succulent and cooked to a
restaurant reviewslightly pink medium rare. The beefy flavour was pronounced and this was the best burger he had eaten in a long while. Its garnishes were sparing and that was no bad thing, although one of Sean’s homemade relishes would have added to the overall experience. Perhaps served on the side along with the ketchup and mustard.

We selected our desserts from the chalkboard. An already over-stuffed me opted for the Peach and Champagne Sorbet which proved to be light, tangy and refreshing as well as being a large 3-scoop portion. My guest was taken with the Martini trifle which was indeed served in a martini glass and was liberally laced with its namesake beverage. A traditional favourite with a twist.

The Pear Tree is the sort of “local” for which tourists search in vain. It’s the style of Victorian pub that we all wish was just at the end of our road. It might need just a bit more polish but it’s hoped that Daren and Lulu just polish rather than replace. It’s a time capsule of British heritage, not of stately homes but of working-class and old-fashioned charm and worn elegance. Just the way it should be.

The Pear Tree Pub
14 Margravine Rd, Fulham, London W6 8HJ
Phone: 020 7381 1787
Visit the Pear Tree here

cookbook review

Heathrow Terminal 5 – Dining Destination

Terminal 5 opened on 27th March 2008 to a less-than-glorious start. I am sure most travellers have received their baggage by now but the memory of that ignominious first week will remain with those who were closely associated with it. But now it really is just a memory, and Terminal 5 is becoming a restaurant review‘destination’ airport terminal in its own right.

Terminal 5A, to give its correct title, is the biggest single-span building in Britain. Your response to most statistics might be, “Well, whoda thought?” but a visit to T5 will have you exclaiming “This must be the biggest single span building in Britain” with no prompting. It is a stunning vision of glass and beams and has an open and light aspect. It cost £4.2bn and covers 265ha, equivalent to 50 football pitches. 27 million passengers are expected to pass through Terminal 5 this year, and this passenger was paying particular attention to the air-side food.

61,000 sqft is dedicated to catering in Terminal 5, everything from The 5 Tuns Pub and Kitchen to M&S, providing the gamut of casual dining, but what was needed for my own early morning start? Breakfast when travelling is often comprised of a strange melange of local dishes appropriate for a different time-zone and of dubious taste and questionable texture, but Wagamama at T5 presents a menu that seems to have something for everyone, or at least as much as one could reasonably expect.

Wagamama is a noodle restaurant with several branches in central and greater London, and others opening restaurant reviewelsewhere. It’s a noodle bar with all the attractive Zen practicality that a Japanese eatery would imply. Plenty of benches and chopsticks but also some rather delicious food. Its pan-Asian-inspired dishes have a cult following. Wagamama ‘chilli men’ is a noodle dish of stir-fried chicken or prawns with vegetables, and is a popular recipe search on the internet (Mostly Asian Food, www.mostlyasianfood.com), but the unique breakfast dishes were the draw this morning. Heathrow is the only Wagamama serving breakfast, both traditional and Asian.

Okonomiyaki – a Japanese-style pancake omelette made with peppers, cabbage and mushrooms, garnished with katsuobushi (a preparation of dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna) and aonori (edible green seaweed) – is a substantial egg dish, and flavourful. The tuna shavings give a slightly salty counterpoint to the vegetables.

Coconut Porridge is a bowl of oats mixed with regular milk and coconut milk, served with an apple and chilli jam. It is perhaps, for the less-adventurous guests, one of the more easily accepted of the pan-Asian breakfast items. We have all had steaming bowls of porridge to send us off to school on cold winter days. Well, this has the same comforting texture but a richness from the coconut milk and a kick from the condiment. A good slow-energy-release dish for the gruelling day ahead!

Caviar House & Prunier offer the traveller an oasis of calm luxury. It’s honestly not an everyday pit-stop,restaurant review but far more accessible financially than one would assume, and proved to be just the place to while away some post-breakfast and pre-flight hours. Caviar House & Prunier is said to be a producer of the world's finest caviar and Balik smoked salmon. It has a reputation for presenting the highest quality, and there are experts on hand to make your first caviar encounter an occasion to remember.

Malossol is the most authentic Russian-style caviar and my favourite. Those little blue tins are here in abundance, along with some not-so-little tins. Malossol is a caviar with a particular Beluga flavour and is much sought-after in America and Japan. Granted, it’s not cheap but it would make any celebration memorable. If caviar is a bit too rich then try the excellent smoked salmon with a glass of champagne. Linger and savour. It’s all about pampering.

Obviously Heathrow isn’t just a dining experience. Retail therapy can calm the nerves and send one from these shores with a feeling of duty-free well-being. Tiffany & Co.’s signature jewellery pieces are displayed in their store. This is the only place outside their New York 5th Avenue branch where passengers are able to see these. Harrods Department Store is here, along with French luxury maison Cartier. There is a raft of other ‘labels’ as well. It’s a consumer paradise for the well-heeled, but for us humble folks there are the high street brands, too.

If those high-flyers are peckish then they would want a celebrated chef to be providing the posh nosh. Plane Food is a Gordon Ramsay restaurant at Heathrow’s Terminal 5, where Stuart Gillies is the appointed Chef Patron. He has worked with Angela Hartnett at The Connaught, before moving on to London's Le Caprice. He has also graced the kitchens of Daniel Boulud restaurant in New York City. Stuart ran the Boxwood Café at The Berkeley before becoming manager of Plane Food.

I am not a fan of Gordon Ramsay but I seem to be one of the few. That is to say, I don’t like his TV shows restaurant reviewor his language, but his food is some of the best around. I have eaten in his Heathrow restaurant and have no complaints. Excellent. And the restaurant offers a picnic service which is novel and convenient.

One can order Plane Beautiful picnics from 7:00am to 9:00pm. They are priced at £14.95 for 3 courses. All meals can be taken onboard your flight, or simply enjoyed in one of the many seating areas in the terminal. My orange thermal bag contained Caesar salad with pancetta and soft-boiled egg, Cumbrian honey-roast ham and Parma ham, and a chocolate brownie which I must confess was the best I have ever eaten. The ham platter was fresh and substantial and my only criticism would be that there was no bread, the addition of which would have made this a complete meal. A simple bottle of water would have been worthwhile.

Heathrow Terminal 5 will start your trip in fine fashion or will offer a stylish homecoming. We all used to swell with pride as we watched Concorde soar. This building and its high-end amenities are fast becoming the equivalent in air travel facilities. OK, you wouldn’t want to spend your vacation within its confines, but it’s striking, contemporary and as good as it gets.
mostly food journal

Mestizo Sunday Brunch with UNESCO support

Mexico already has many of its monuments on UNESCO's list of protected sites. Now it has gained international recognition for the country's unique cuisine. London has a restaurant which is recognised by the Mexican Embassy as providing authentic dishes. Mestizo near Euston Station will provide a vibrant restaurant reviewintroduction to Mexico’s culinary heritage.

UNESCO officials have added Mexico's food to the organisation's list of ‘intangible cultural patrimony’. That simply means that the cuisine of Mexico is now recognised as worth protecting and promoting. The trinity of corn, beans and chillis forms the foundation of Mexico's food, with each region of the country adding its own ingredients and spices to create a rich tapestry.

"We face an enormous threat from junk food and other foreign foods that are taking over our culture, which is why UNESCO could help greatly by supporting our traditional cuisine," said Mr. Rojas, the chef at Don Chon, a Mexico City restaurant specialising in pre-Hispanic dishes.

Traditional Mexican cuisine dates back 3,000 years to the Mayans, who had a healthy and delicious diet, but the “Mexican cuisine” that most of us have eaten is largely an adulteration of the authentic original. These dishes often owe their heritage to restaurants north of the border. Taste real Mexican food and you’ll notice a difference. The Sunday brunch at Mestizo is a showcase, and will allow those new to real Mexican food to graze and savour.

Mestizo offers a warm welcome at any time. I have become a frequent visitor and have never been disappointed. I eat out several times each week and still this restaurant is amongst my top three in London. It has a casual ambiance, and many regulars from the Mexican community, who must know a great deal more about this exciting cuisine than I do.

The brunch starts at noon and is available till 4pm. Go early as it’s a popular spot. Settle yourself at a tablerestaurant review and check out what your neighbours are eating. There is a good chance that they will be Mexicans or regulars, so ask them what they have chosen. Don’t bother asking what’s good – it’s all good. Pour a glass of Agua de Horchata (rice, cinnamon, milk) or Agua de Jamaica made from hibiscus, and head for the food.

Perhaps start with Huevos Rancheros. This is a typical Mexican breakfast dish of fried eggs on fried tortilla with red or green salsa, rice and beans. A substantial plate, so come with an appetite or you will miss out on so many other delicious possibilities, such as Menudo soup, considered as a cure-all. Pozole is a traditional corn soup garnished with lettuce, radish, onion, avocado, chopped chilli and lime. Birria is lamb stew with tomato, onion and chilli ancho.

I wandered along the buffet and selected a little of this and a spoonful of that. This form of dining is ideal for groups as each guest can make their own selection and return as often as they like. There are salsas to spice the aromatic dishes and there are salads to cool the chilli-rich ones. Plenty here for vegetarians and even fish lovers as well as those who crave meat. The kids can amuse themselves by designing their own Taco or Quesadilla and you could celebrate Sunday with a shot or two of tequila.

The Tamales at Mestizo are comfort foods. The steamed corn husks are filled with masa and a variety of fillings. Try these with a drizzle of green salsa. Simple but memorable. The chafing dish to the right contained Pescado Relleno de Champinones, a delicate white fish wrapped in corn husk and steamed in its own juices with mushrooms. This was one of the best fish dishes of any ethnic persuasion I have eaten in ages.

The flavours here are surprisingly subtle. Pollo en Salsa Romero is a creamy chicken dish and ideal served with rice. Mild and with the chicken cooked to succulent perfection. This is another must-try.

I spent a long and contented lunch and enjoyed a sampling of almost all the savoury dishes on offer. I could be condemned to eat the same on my next visit, for next visit there will surely be, and I would be looking forward to the experience anew. But I needed a taste of something sweet and so I cut a slice of Tres Leches cake from the dessert display. This was a moreish preparation of light sponge soaked in a sauce made from, as the name suggests, three milks. If you are not sure of your capacity then I would counsel eating dessert first. Yes, its rich but it’s worth the calories.

Mestizo for Dinner

I had my first little peek at Mestizo last year. Just a cocktail and some nibbles but it was enough to give anrestaurant review indication that this was a spot to linger over and enjoy. An evening meal was in order so off I went with guest in tow to see if that first impression was accurate, or merely an illusion encouraged by one too many of Mexico’s famous beverage.

You might say you like “Mexican” food. You might have had “Mexican” food on trips to the US, and Taco Bell might be your favourite fast food but, dear reader, your experience is a faint shadow of the authentic Mexican extravaganza awaiting you at Mestizo.

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar has a convenient location just around the corner from Euston Square Underground station, and a few minutes’ walk from Euston main-line station. Its atmosphere is of dark wood charm but the impressive bar hints at fun times to be had. This establishment has a collection of Tequilas (over 130 at last count) enough to make any London-based Mexican quite home-sick. The restaurant has a cult following amongst the local Brits and, evidently, expat Mexicans. That has got to be an indication of this restaurant’s authenticity. It already has the vote of those in the know.

Mestizo offers food that is hard or impossible to find outside Mexico. I wonder why these dishes haven’t had the exposure of other ethnic cuisines. It must be that Europe has only a slight cultural exchange with those countries that rest south of Texas and California. Mexican food has migrated to its neighbour to the North, but has often been adulterated in transit. Tex-Mex food might be vibrant and zesty but it isn’t a patch on food to be found south of the border.

We started our evening with cocktails. Mestizo Spice got our attention. This was an amazing concoction of Casco Viejo chilli-infused reposado tequila, cherry brandy, crushed strawberries, diced red chilli and lime. It’s a tall delicate pink drink with a kick. I am not a cocktail habitué but this particular recipe evoked all that’s impressive about Mestizo – good taste and style.

Our starter was a Mixed Antojitos Platter which was an assortment of flauta (crispy fried rolled tortillas filled with chicken and topped with lettuce, sour cream and green tomatillo salsa), quesadilla (corn pastries filled with cheese, served with sour cream and salsa roja), jalada (jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese, served with sour cream) - don’t miss these -, and tamales (steamed corn husks filled with masa and pollo con mole) – an authentic taste of Mexican comfort food.

The Mestizo staff are charming and helpful. Several of them are Mexican and all of them can steer you through what will likely be an unfamiliar menu. Mole Poblano was my co-reviewer’s choice for main course. This is a classic dish of boneless chicken breast served with a traditional mole sauce made of dried chillies, herbs, spices, almonds and chocolate, served with beans and rice and some flour tortillas. Mestizo make all sauces, beans, condiments and salsas in-house. The tortillas, however, are produced by a specialist bakery, although Mestizo do make their own moreish tortilla chips. The chocolate sauce was savoury and well flavoured with a silky texture. An introduction to the subtleties of Mexican cuisine.

Mole Huasteco (a traditional dish from the state of Hidalgo, Mexico) was new to me. It’s a boneless chicken breast served with a huasteco sauce, made from over 32 ingredients, including dried chillies, tomatoes, onion, almonds, garlic, sesame and pumpkin seeds. This is a rich and aromatic dish with an almost liquorice or aniseed finish. This must surely be a signature dish. If you only expect to make one visit to Mestizo then order this.
restaurant review
Mestizo is a restaurant for convivial gatherings as well as intimate soirées. Many other guests had ordered the Taco Tray. This is for two or more and is evidently the meal of choice for groups or couples. It looks spectacular, like so many of Mestizo’s dishes, as well as being fun to eat. Perhaps a good ice-breaker on a first date.

The Mestizo desserts are worth saving a chink of space for. We ordered Flan Caresro which is the Mexican take on Crème Caramel. Light and sweet in a pool of caramel sauce. Pastel de Quesco y Coco is a cheesecake perfumed with coconut served with mango coulis. An exotic end to a memorable meal. I am sure it will turn out to be the first of many. The Sunday Brunch is said to be worth a visit. Mestizo is without a doubt one of my top London restaurants.

Restaurant review: Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar
103 Hampstead Road,
London NW1 3EL
www.mestizomx.com
Phone 020 7387 4064
Email eat@mestizomx.com

Mestizo now has an online shop. Visit here
mostly food journal

Indigo Afternoon Tea - One Aldwych Hotel

Indigo Restaurant at One Aldwych Hotel is the ideal spot for a spot of tea. Its unique location allows for the essential “people watching” without the disadvantages of traffic fumes and noise, and with the added benefit of those aforementioned people being kept at a healthy distance. You’ll have a good view of the moving London landscape from your cosy eyrie.

Indigo restaurant now offers the celebrated British afternoon tea with a delicious twist on the much-loved restaurant reviewexperience. Tony Fleming, the hotel’s executive chef, takes advantage of the finest, freshest ingredients and has tweaked the classic dainties – both sweet and savoury – to present a contemporary version of the typical afternoon tea. Nothing too outlandish or shocking to refined sensibilities, just changes to offer a lighter although equally indulgent experience.

This restaurant is a favourite of mine. In fact the hotel with both Indigo and Axis restaurants is a haven of understated good taste and a refuge from the bustle of city life. We ordered Assam and Darjeeling teas and settled back. I was expecting something charming and different and that’s what I got.

The three-tier stand is traditional and there were sandwiches. Roast beef, pink and tempting and spiked with horseradish, in my opinion the essential condiment, is served on caramelised onion bread. Smoked salmon is a must and here it has a spread of cream cheese on onion bread. Cucumber and cream cheese is matched with caraway bread to make one feel elegant and a bit Victorian (although they might have missed out on the cream cheese, and the bread would doubtless have remained sans caraway).

Sandwiches constitute the majority of that lower layer but Indigo has added some savouries and they are miniature versions of the dishes that were so popular as part of a High Tea a century or so ago. The hearty Scotch Egg is now made with a quail egg, and the Welsh Rarebit is a crunchy crouton topped with the cheesy mix.

The usual route to teatime satisfaction lies in starting at the bottom with the sandwiches and working up. I would counsel that you should have the ground floor platter first and then pass swiftly to the third. The Eton Mess is presented in a small glass and will captivate anyone with a passion for sweet decadence. Dive in, as this concoction is best consumed fresh.

Traditional warm Scottish drop-scones served with berry compote and clotted cream also grace that top deck. They replace the notoriously fickle regular scones. They are light and delicate and a worthy addition to the plate. But cakes are perhaps the most eagerly anticipated of the collection and they grace the middle level of the stand.

The Bitter Chocolate Tart has a truly adult and sophisticated taste. It might look a small slice but it’s rich; and there is pink and yellow checker-board Battenberg to follow. This really will evoke memories of childhood, although my childhood was punctuated with Battenberg from a box, a pale imitation of this Indigo delight. But there is more to come in the guise of carrot cake. A great example here with evidence of both nuts and carrots, and aromatic with warming spices. A substantial slice.

Afternoon tea at Indigo is a new enterprise. It’s only been available for a few weeks but it’s already popular. There was a pre-wedding celebration party, the girls wearing flowery dresses to complement the pastel teatime display. Another table held a family of three generations, grandparents sipping champagne while baby in high-chair tucked into a finger of sandwich and squidgy fist or two of cake. Contentment and joy reigned. I’ll return for another tranquil Saturday afternoon and I am sure the others will as well.

Afternoon tea must be booked in advance.
£26.50 per person
£35.00 per person including a glass of Louis Roederer Champagne

Indigo Restaurant - One Aldwych
1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH
Tel: 020 7300 0400
Fax: 020 7300 0401
Email: indigo@onealdwych.com
mostly food journal

The Elgin Food Pub and Music House – Notting Hill

Previously a down-market Frog and Firkin, The Elgin is another pub that has recently been taken over by Geronimo Inns.  Fortunately the group has maintained the striking Victoriana and attracted a different restaurant reviewclientele. The sports-bar atmosphere has disappeared along with its dubious drinkers, or at least the drinkers here are no more dubious than in any other neighbourhood pub. The pub does however boast a music pedigree, as The Clash played here. The tradition continues with live music on some nights. The back room of the pub is the 70-cover Music Room.

Since 1856 The Elgin has had many incarnations so it’s truly amazing that the character has survived. It now has ‘Grade II listed’ status, so those magnificent Victorian features will not be replaced by sombreros, Inuit canoes strung from the chandeliers, and black and white pictures of James Dean.

The décor is memorable and unique. A glass screen divides the front bar from the Gin Palace. This is no contemporary frosted glass affair. It’s the original stained and bevelled glass partition and it’s a testament to good fortune that it has survived both the ravages of war-time bombing and customers’ hurled projectiles.

The Gin Palace bar is striking. If the Vatican had a members’ bar it would be modelled on the extravaganza housed in this side room at The Elgin. Picture a huge dark wood sideboard with turned this’s and deeply carved thats punctuated with a glint of glass, and your mind will have conjured a fair approximation of this piece of fitted furniture. The ceilings are high here and this bar meets it in fine ornate fashion.

It’s no surprise that a Gin Palace will display a fair number of its name-sake drinks. The Elgin offers nearly 40. I am not normally a gin drinker but the waiter persuaded me that a glass of Brockmans flavoured with coriander, blueberries, blackberries and Valencia oranges might be to my taste. I am a convert and can understand now why gin was oft described as ‘mother’s ruin’. It would be easy to over-imbibe.

The Gin Palace is also a 30 or so seat dining room so we settled ourselves for the evening. There is a row of red-plush banquettes, tables and wooden chairs opposite the imposing bar but we chose the table for 2 by the window. It’s a quieter area than the main bar but it doesn’t have the isolated feel of an annex, as there is the through traffic of those heading for the music room.
restaurant review

Pressed Ham Hock Terrine was my guest’s choice of starter. It was moist, flavourful and well textured with chunks of pink ham. Served with toast, this made a substantial beginning. My appetite was a little more modest so I ordered the Caramelised Onion Tart with Goats Cheese which was sweet and coloured to a mahogany hue, with the cheese giving a salty tang. The accompanying salad was more than a garnish and was strewn with walnuts offering a contrasting crunch to the unctuous tart. Starter it might have been but it could equally have constituted a light lunch.

Jersey Royals and Garlic Spinach were the side dishes for the Pork Cutlet which must have been cut from restaurant reviewthe carcass of a porker of considerable size. This was a thick chop with real crackling, a sprinkle of stuffing and a potato croquette to elevate one corner of the meat above the pool of rich gravy. A hearty plateful of tender cutlet with an old-fashioned taste of real pork.

Bailey’s Crème Brulée and Rhubarb and Ginger Crumble with vanilla ice cream were our desserts. The brulée had a delicate hint of cream liqueur, perhaps a little too restrained but it was a delightful presentation of cracking sugar and creamy rich custard. The crumble could have had a more pronounced hit of ginger but it was a good example of what makes crumble so popular – a fruity, luscious base with a good topping of buttery crumble.

The Elgin is another of those pubs that are deserving of preservation. Solid food, charming ambiance and the chance of some good music. Well worth a visit.

Opening Hours:
11am to 11pm (Monday to Saturday)
12 noon to 10.30pm (Sunday)

Restaurant review: The Elgin Food Pub and Music House
96 Ladbroke Grove, Notting Hill, London W11 1PY
Phone: 020 7229 5663
theelgina@geronimo-inns.co.uk
Visit The Elgin here
mostly food journal

Fire and Stone – Spitalfields

Yes, Pizza is fast food. Well, more accurately it’s fast-ish food. A good pizza has a freshly-made base and an exceptional one has that cooked in a real pizza oven. It’s fast food with a pedigree.

The first pizzas were simple affairs sold by the slice on the streets of Naples. It wasn’t available much restaurant reviewoutside the environs of that city and didn’t become widely known till after the Second World War when the returning GIs spread the word. As usual the UK followed suit and now there are pizza restaurants and kiosks all over the world.

Heritage meets history with the latest Fire and Stone Pizza restaurant in Old Spitalfields Market. There has been a market on this site since 1638 when Charles I licensed the sale of meat and veg. It was then a rural area near London rather than being in the centre of it. The existing structure was built in 1887 to service a wholesale market. It was subsequently extended and now has new office buildings added to the complex, although it still holds much of its traditional Victorian charm.

Fire and Stone opened on 1st August at this famous site, and has seating for 190 people. It has an airy ambiance as it is separated only by glass walls from the vibrancy of the market. It’s a contemporary restaurant with copper-clad oven on view to the expectant diners. Plenty of dark wood to complement the glowing metal. It’s already a popular spot after only a couple of weeks of trading. A good start when one considers the close proximity of other casual dining restaurants.

Lunchtime finds Fire and Stone filled with office workers and tourists visiting the market. The evening sees groups of friends looking for decent food before an evening of bar-hopping and cinema-going. Its location a stone’s throw from Aldgate East makes it ideal for convivial and surprisingly economic dining.

We started our meal with the Mediterranean Sharing Platter. This was a generous plate of Parma ham, salami, smoked ham, homous, taramasalata, black and green olives, cornichons (small pickled gherkins) and triangles of fresh pita bread. This was a substantial plateful and a bargain at less than £4.00 per person. You’ll need these nibbles while you scan the diverse and lengthy menu.

Fire and Stone is a small chain that offers quality pizza. There is a raft of pizza restaurants around but the goods on offer here are outstanding. There is a long list of exotic toppings but they have not forgotten the classics. You can have the basic Margherita with the three-colour garnish of tomato, basil and mozzarella (said to represent the Italian flag) and then add extras of your choice.restaurant review

Napoli pizza tempted me. It’s a traditional one, but a simple dish reflects the confidence of the establishment, and there was nothing wrong with this one. Tomato sauce covered with spicy sliced pepperoni, mozzarella cheese and anchovies. The thin base was cooked to perfection – slight crunch around the edge with a firm rather than soggy centre. The topping was authentically Italian, and a sprinkle of semolina still remained under the bottom crust.

Marrakech pizza appealed to my guest. Cumin perfumed the minced lamb, while mozzarella, mint and yoghurt sauce, green olives, raisins and thinly sliced red onion drizzled with chilli oil were the flavourful toppings. This is well worth trying. OK, so it’s not a classic pizza – Fire and Stone offers many that are not, but let us not be food snobs. This restaurant does indeed have a list of the usual suspects, but consider trying some of the more exotic offerings. The aforementioned Marrakech is similar to a traditional Middle Eastern pizza-style dish, lahem bil ajine, but one of the most popular pizzas here is the Peking, with Hoi Sin sauce, shredded aromatic duck, mozzarella and spring onions. Another highly recommended is the London pizza with its nod to the English fried breakfast: tomato sauce, bacon, mozzarella, Cumberland sausage, black pudding and free-range eggs as its crowning glory.

Fire and Stone have reached a compromise between tradition and modernity. They present well-executed pizza made from the best of ingredients. They take pride in their products and that will appeal to the pizza purist. Others will say that the masterfully baked crust should be considered a worthy vehicle for other delicious foods, and those people will be well content with the globe-trotting menu of pizzas inspired by every continent.

Your friends might not be able to agree which topping is the best in house, but all will agree that Fire and Stone do a very fine pizza. I’ll be back for the Peking, or perhaps the New York, or perhaps I’ll make that American Hot.

Fire and Stone
4 Horner Square, Old Spitalfields Market, London E1 6EW
Phone: 0844 371 2554

Opening hours
Monday to Saturday 11am – 11pm
Sunday 11am – 8pm
mostly food journal

Zeen – Flavour of India

Zeenat Harnal began work in the hospitality industry in 1980 as a management trainee within the Taj Group of Hotelsrestaurant review zeen in India. This is a prestigious chain which has given the world some of the most enthusiastic and talented managers and chefs. Zeenat moved from Mumbai to Bangalore where she took up a post of banqueting manager.

In 1988, she relocated to the UK as Operations Director of Noon Products, that company being owned by her father, Sir Gulam Noon. There she met Nizar Challawala, and in April 2008, Zeenat and Nizar became business partners and embarked on their own venture, a restaurant called Zeen in London’s Drummond Street.

It’s true that Drummond Street isn’t as celebrated as Brick Lane or Southall as a hub of Asian culinary culture but it has enjoyed a steady flow of visitors for decades. It’s located just a stone’s throw from Euston station and an even shorter toss from Euston Square Underground station. It’s tucked away just a block or so back from the main thoroughfare of the Euston Road but it’s a well-trodden path for those looking for good Indian food or a box of sweets from one of Drummond Street’s several immaculate and enticing sweetshops.

Zeen has a discreet door at street level. The guest is lead down a flight of stairs to a stylish and striking restaurant. This has a hint of tasteful retro with thoughtfully chosen seats in orange leather, dark wood tables, granite floors, open kitchen and low-hung lamps. The attention to detail has even extended to choice of glass jugs and salt and pepper shakers. Contemporary with an air of international quality.

We took our seats and perused the menu – a combination of comfortable old favourites and innovation. OK, to tell restaurant review zeenthe truth there is more here that reflects the taste of discerning diners. It’s a collection to encourage those who have only ventured as far as Chicken Tikka Masala and an onion bhaji to try something different. It’s a menu that suggests a high-end restaurant in what is now one of the food capitals of the world.

My starter of Dahi Batata Puri was a substantial plate of delicate fried puffed bread stuffed with mashed potato, with its traditional garnish of yoghurt and tamarind. It’s the style of street food that is becoming more common as restaurant fare these days. My guest ordered Jheenga Achari which were marinated jumbo prawns cooked in a tandoor. This was worthy of any of Zeen's more celebrated rivals, and good enough to be a signature dish here.

If one is in doubt then it could be worth settling on the Chef’s Specials. These often showcase the expertise and passion of the chef, and at Zeen they have a remarkable selection of show-stoppers. Tandoori Pomfret is well worth trying. Pomfret must be the most popular of Indian fish but seldom seen on a supermarket fishmonger’s slab. Duck Jalfrezi is another of those fusion dishes appearing on up-market menus. Duck is not so often seen in India but it’s a meat which is well suited to Indian spices and cooking techniques. It still seems luxurious and a bit of a treat but at only £11.95 it’s a dish you’ll enjoy time and time again.

A must-try dessert here is the Rose Petal ice cream. This is a vision of pink loveliness with a delicate flavour that I’d liken to Turkish Delight. Attractive and even more delicious. The Indian Petit Four made a marvellously naughty end to our meal. Cubes of sweetmeats in all their glorious, teeth-aching splendour. Four varieties which made an indulgent and exotic conclusion to our evening.

Zeen is a restaurant which would not look out of place nestled in a smart hotel. The ambiance is charming, its location is central and the menu is enticing. The prices are, however, amazing. These have got to be some of the most reasonable prices around. If Zeen has quality food as its priority then continued success is assured.

Opening Hours:
Mon - Fri: 12 Noon to 3pm and 5:30pm to 11:30pm
Sat: 12 Noon to 3pm and 6pm to 11:30pm
Sun: Closed

Zeen Restaurant
130 Drummond Street, London NW1 2PA
Phone: +44 (0)20 7387 0606
Fax: +44 (0)20 7387 3947
info@zeenrestaurant.co.uk
Visit Zeen here
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Chor Bizarre

restaurant review chor bizarre
Chor Bizarre - Mayfair's most striking Indian dining spot - is a legend, at least with those who have crossed the threshold even once. It is a little corner of real India. My guest, an Indian lady with impeccable taste in both food and decor, remarked that it was truly a replica of a corner of Chor Bazaar in her home town of Mumbai, where one could unearth dusty and hidden treasures. Well, Chor Bizarre is mercifully dust-free and the treasures are shown off to great advantage for the pleasure of diners. It should be noted (to the great joy of many) that those artefacts and objets d’art could be going home with you at the end of the meal – make your waiter an offer he can’t refuse.

This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, red velvet, mirror, old prints, carved screens and tables - yes, I know, dear reader, they are handy in a restaurant. The tables at Chor Bizarre are somewhat different from the norm and they are also different one from another. Carved stone legs support a white marble top here, an ornate grilled window has been transformed into a table for two over there, and the Indian four-poster bed seats a larger group. The concept of mis-match.... Hang on! What was that about a bed? Yes, a glorious big bed provides space under a canopy. The bed theme is found elsewhere with intricate metal and wood bed-heads providing backrests to banquettes. The chairs are an eclectic mix of upholstered classics and masterfully turned ethnics, as well as a red two-seat sofa.

It’s a restaurant with only 80 covers but its floor plan provides for a few cosy nooks and corners. There is a Kashmir-inspired booth which would encourage any visitor to linger rather than head for the Tube. That aforementioned Underground station is Green Park just a few yards from Albemarle Street. It’s Mayfair in all its up-swept glory, although Chor Bizarre offers charming substance rather than glitz.

Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja is a charismatic figure whose enthusiasm for his restaurant and its food is infectious. He trained in Mumbai at the same catering college that has produced so many of London’s greatest Indian chefs and food writers. He draws his inspiration for his truly unique menu from his native Delhi as well as Kashmir and other regions. Chor Bizarre is the only restaurant outside the Kashmir Valley that has access to the secrets of the ‘Wazwan’ – the legendary ceremonial feast of 36 courses. One does, however, have the impression that Chef Ahuja could present his guests with dry toast and it would contrive to be the most vibrant scrap of bread you would ever encounter.

Chor Bizarre's menu offers some authentic street-fare, like the samosas, chaat and pakoras that have been a restaurant review chor bizzardraw in Delhi's street markets for 700 years or so. Anything that has endured for that long was bound to be worth trying while we perused our other courses. Aloo Tikki Chaat encapsulates all that is enticing about street food. It’s soft, and tangy with tamarind and mint. Purani Dilli ki Papri Chaat is another casual dining delight, but the memorable snack was the outstanding Prawn Tak-a Tak. The dish is named for the sound of the slice on the griddle as it chops the meats. This form of cooking hails from the Punjab, the spices were South Indian, and the flavourful Missi Roti bread is from the North. A famous recently-departed TV chef would have described this dish as ‘India on a plate.’

We started our exploration of this tempting menu with a selection of Tandoori-baked goods. The Sampler offered us Sufiyani Salmon – flavoured with cumin and dill, Adraki Chaampen – lamb chops marinated in fresh ginger and spices, and Gazab ka Tikka – a restaurant special of marinaded chicken cooked with cream, mild and aromatic. An introduction to the quality of the food here: even the more common dishes exemplify the best of their genre.

The vegetarian main course introduced me to Kurkuri Bhindi. This should be a signature dish. It was a crunchy and gloriously tongue-tingling bowl of crisp fried okra seasoned with mango and chilli powder. This made a spicy foil for the creamy Dal Makhni – always a favourite with its comforting texture. These black lentils are simmered overnight in the cooling tandoor.

One of the features of Delhi cooking is its reliance on meat, but Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja has chosen to include poultry and lamb dishes from other regions as well. Chor Bizarre has Keralan Chicken Stew and Chicken Chettinad amongst others, and we enjoyed our Kashmiri Rogan Josh. This lamb shank was meltingly tender with a rich sauce aromatic with cardamom and cloves. Just some steamed basmati rice was all that was needed to complete the meal. Charles Metcalfe has paired wines with the menu, so you are sure to find something that lays the myth that ‘you can’t drink wine with Indian food.’

Chor Bizarre has hosted and catered for many high-end events such as an Indian Evening at the Cannes International Film Festival; an exclusive café at the Georgian Restaurant at Harrods; a Tea Promotion at the Ritz, Paris. Chor Bizarre is home to London’s first truly authentic Indian Tea Bar ‘Chai Bazaar’ (nifty name), which gives its visitors afternoons of tranquillity as well as 30 or so teas from the subcontinent, along with a High Tea platter. More on that in the summer.

I am lucky enough to be able to visit fine restaurants all over the capital. They vary in style and cuisine but the best ones manage to transport the diner to a place away from their regular lives. An ambiance of opulence, a hint of Zen tranquillity or a glimpse of centuries past can provide much-needed distraction. Chor Bizarre is a unique portal, a gem in an already illustrious crown. There is much to discover, and it demands several visits. The literal translation of Chor Bazaar is ‘Thieves Market’. You might have your heart stolen away here, but you will in turn be stealing several hours of exotic bliss and unbeatable food.

Chor Bizarre
16 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HW
Telephone no: 0207-6299802, 0207-6298542
Facsimile no: 0207-4937756
E-Mail: chorbizarrelondon@oldworldhospitality.com
Website: www.chorbizarre.com

Opening Times:
Mon - Sat
Lunch: 12:00 noon - 03:00 pm
Dinner: 06:00 pm - 11.30 pm
Sunday
06:00 pm – 10:30 pm
Private Parties: Private room for 25 people for full day conference & cocktails/dinner. Private catering.
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The Cinnamon Club

The Cinnamon Club was the brain-child of Iqbal Wahhab. Hmmm, that name rings a bell. Yes, my dear musing reader, you are right, Iqbal is the very chap who leapt to celebrity after famously describing Indian waiters in the UK as miserable gits. I am sure he won just as many supporters as he did critics. Indian restaurants in general did not have a good reputation for service. There were notable exceptions but on the whole your welcome at the local curry house would range from muted to nonexistent.

restaurant review cinnamon cub

The Old Westminster Library was first opened to the public in 1893 and was carefully converted into The Cinnamon Club in 2001. It should have opened in 2000 and the reasons why it didn’t are a catalogue of building and financial horror. Money trickles too slowly, builders down tools, builders find other work, money arrives, builders are otherwise occupied, and bits of building fall off. A lesser man than entrepreneur Iqbal Wahhab would have thrown in the towel.

The very culinary fabric of the new Cinnamon
Club was a catastrophe. The stoves, and they are always handy in a restaurant kitchen, arrived late and when they were installed the kitchen was still minus a couple of vital parts: gas and electricity. Enter one youthful and talented chef from India, Vivek Singh who saved the day by suggesting that the opening cocktail party could be salvaged if the brand new tandoors could be commissioned.

That first day was a baptism of fire in every sense. Vivek surmounted all odds (including a truly dumb waiter) to present the first of the Cinnamon Club’s many triumphs. That night saw the launch of what was considered by many to be the first “cool” Indian restaurant in London. It has undoubtedly helped to raise the bar on expectations, and on quality of food and service in Indian restaurants.
 
restaurant review
The Cinnamon Club won the Restaurant of the Year Award at the World Food Awards last November and became a member of Cool (that word again) Brands 2009/10. A collection of everything popular and trendy, Cool Brands has been listing the most fashionable brands of the year since 2001.

Perhaps cool isn’t the word that I would attach to The Cinnamon Club. That smacks of shifting and fickle tastes which often have nothing to do with quality. A step across the threshold of this restaurant will have you convinced that there must be other more fitting superlatives to use. Something appropriately Victorian and solid. ‘Regal’ works well but it does hint at stuffy, and The Cinnamon Club is far from that. Perhaps a melange of ‘stunning’ and ‘welcoming’ would fit the bill.

A soupçon of marble, the shimmer of leaded glass, tan leather and suede, high-backed banquette and dark wood contrive to offer the guest a haven from the rigours of Westminster. Those clients number amongst them the powerful and the posers, the celebrated and the celebrating, and anyone who wants a unique and thoroughly engaging culinary experience. Think fine French dining with an Indian vibrancy. An unbeatable marriage when those two elements are thoughtfully combined.

The restaurant is famed for its game. It’s unlikely that you would have come across much of that in your
standard, or even high-end Indian eatery, but Executive Chef Vivek Singh says that “Offering game on the menu gives us a point of difference and immediately sets us apart from other kitchens, and so we started using it restaurant review cinnamon clubon our menus. But the real reason that I like to experiment so much with game in our restaurants is that in India, despite our rich heritage and tradition of cooking with game, we’ve lost all those recipes because of a complete ban on any type of hunting. It’s been like this since 1947.” His emphasis on fresh and seasonal ingredients allows for a frequently changing bill of fare. Every visit will offer you new delights prepared by Vivek and Head Chef Hari Nagaraj.

The venison at the Cinnamon Club is the best you will find in any restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. The meat is tender and the spices are subtle and aromatic. Roast saddle of ‘Oisin’ red deer with pickling spice and Bengali Beetroot Crush could be on the menu and if it is I’d advise you to take advantage.

Rabbit is an often overlooked meat and it’s a pity. It’s a white, free-range meat with a mild but distinctive flavour. Hunter’s Style Rabbit Tikka with dill and mustard and hot garlic chutney could entice you to try bunny for the first time. You won’t be disappointed. Crisp Zucchini (Courgette) Flowers with spiced vegetables and slow-cooked marrow is meltingly light and delicious and the choice of those who would rather not eat meat.

Fish and seafood are here in abundance. Norwegian King Crab and tamarind salad, Char-grilled Monkfish, Char-grilled Halibut with green pea and potato crush and yoghurt ‘Kadhi’, and Tandoori King Prawns with coconut malai curry might find their way to your dinner-plate.

The dessert list is surprisingly long. Puds are not a strong suit at most Indian restaurants and that’s a shame. Indian home cooks prepare wonderfully sweet and perfumed dishes. Buffalo milk ‘Kulfi ’ with green cardamom and pistachio is a classic but the Green Apple Sorbet is remarkable. There are lots to choose from so you might want to save some space and enjoy the Tasting Plate of assorted desserts. It’s a selection for two people and it’s one to linger over.

The Cinnamon Club can boast 27 pages of wines and cocktails. It’s another indication of its pedigree. No, not just the number of wines listed but the quality of the wines. The sommelier here is worth his weight in gold and that thought led me seamlessly to order a cocktail called Fool's Gold, described as complex and clean: cardamom, Gabriel Boudier saffron gin and a sprinkle of edible gold leaf. This should be the restaurant’s signature cocktail, offering the glitz of a big international city combined with a waft of exotic spice. Perhaps that’s the best analogy of the restaurant itself: a harmonious mix of the best of East and West.

This restaurant has a loyal following of discerning regulars. It has received plaudits and gongs and it would seem impossible to find fault. I am not an expert on Indian food so I can’t suggest that a dish has its origins in a particular far-flung region of the subcontinent. I can’t compare the charms of a recipe here to those of my grandmother’s food in Agra, but I can state that the food here is amongst the best that you’ll find in either Asia or Europe. Your visit is sure to be memorable. Mine was.

The Cinnamon Club has its own cinema. It’s free and seats are available on a first-come first-served basis. Call for ‘forthcoming attractions’.

Opening Times
Breakfast weekdays 7.30am - 9.30am
Lunch Mon - Sat 12.00pm - 2.45pm
Dinner Mon - Sat 6.00pm - 10.45pm

Library Bar weekdays 11.00am - 11.45pm
Cinnamon Club Bar Mon - Sat 6.00pm -11.45pm

The Cinnamon Club
The Old Westminster Library,
30-32 Great Smith Street,
London SW1P 3BU
Phone: 020 7222 2555
Email: info@cinnamonclub.com

Visit Cinnamon Club here
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Masala Zone Fulham

restaurant review

The very first Masala Zone restaurant was the Soho branch which opened in 2000. There are now 7 Masala Zones in London with more to follow. They seem to fill a long-felt gastronomic want for a good-value contemporary Indian restaurant with authentic food and unique ambiance. Masala Zone provides that, with each of its restaurants taking a different cultural and artistic theme.

The Fulham Broadway branch, the newest in the chain, is just a few yards away from Fulham Broadway Underground station and its attendant bustling shopping mall. Masala Zone has a modern and welcoming entrance which leads into a deceptively large restaurant. There is a lower dining area at the rear, as well as a private dining room which can be partitioned restaurant reviewwith sliding screens. The contemporary furnishings are contrasted by canvases said to be painted in the style of the frescoes from the grand mansions in Shekawati, Rajasthan. When I say canvases you’ll be thinking, dear reader, of pictures hung on the walls. No, these are full murals that cover the walls – striking, exotic but in keeping with the modern ethos of the restaurant.

We were there to try the Street Food. Not a selection of exotic hot dogs. Not pizza with Chicken Tikka topping, and not even chips with curry sauce. This is as near as you’ll get to subcontinental fast food without investing in a ticket to Mumbai. In fact, don’t even think of these dishes as fast food: consider them more as traditional foods more usually cooked at roadside halts and on small stalls in city streets. Popular food and it’s popular for a reason.

The Street Food menu offers a different style of dining. This is convivial, casual and varied. Ideal for small groups as you’ll have the chance to sample a wider range of dishes. I had expected them to be small snacks but they are surprisingly substantial. We ordered four between two of us and that constituted a full meal.

Bhel is a favourite with me when eating at restaurant review
friends’ homes. It’s a fresh-tasting dish with texture. Tangy, crunchy salad with puffed rice, delicate sev (crunchy strands made from chickpea flour), vegetables, peanuts and chutneys.

Sev Puri are wholewheat puffy biscuits topped with spiced mashed potatoes and three fresh chutneys. The chutneys give real flavour and bite.

Dahi Puri are puffed hollow thin breads filled with chickpeas, mashed potatoes and garnished with yoghurt and chutneys.

Gol Guppa are small lentil- and tamarind-stuffed wholewheat puri. They are the most fun to eat. Just fill them with the spicy tamarind dressing and pop them, whole, into your mouth.

Pao Bhaji was introduced to a fascinated TV audience by Anthony Bourdain. He is a celebrated American food writer and restaurateur. He enjoyed these little veggie burgers so much when visiting India that he ate several at a sitting and professed them to be better than American fast foods. It’s spicy mashed potatoes and vegetables served with warm bread.

Aloo Tikki Chaat is another personal favourite. Spiced mashed potato cakes with yoghurt and chutney is a real comfort dish.

Chana Dabalroti is a flavourful chickpea curry with lotus root and toasted bread – a famous Sindhi snack.

Samosas are ubiquitous in Indian restaurants all over the world but Masala Zone offers a choice of curried chickpeas, chicken or vegetable fillings. The presentation is a bit different, having the samosas split and garnished with yoghurt and tamarind. The pastry was authentic samosa dough rather than the too-often encountered philo pastry.

Shikampuri Kebab are minced lamb patties stuffed with herbs, and the choice for those who must have their meat fix.

It seems that the original Masala Zone in Soho had a bit of a bad press on first opening. Those days are gone and the chain now has a good reputation and a more considered menu which reflects the desire of customers for freshness, flavour and authenticity. I am impressed by the Fulham restaurant which offered good food at reasonable prices, an attractive and comfy environment and service which was fast and attentive. The staff had evident passion for the food and were knowledgeable and enthusiastic. A visit to another branch to try Masala Zone’s Thali selection is definitely on the cards.

Masala Zone
583 Fulham Road, Fulham Broadway, London SW6 5UA
Phone: 020 7386 5500
Fax: 020 7386 0088
Visit Masala Zone here

Restaurant opening times    
Monday to Friday: 12.30 – 15.00, 17.30 – 23.00
Saturday: 12.30 – 23.00
Sunday: 12.30 – 22.30

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Soseki Japanese Restaurant

What is a Soseki? It is a who and he was one of Japan's favourite novelists, Natsume Soseki. He lived in Londonrestaurant review over a hundred years ago, and in the two years he was here he had plenty of time to miss the taste, sight and sound of home.

Soseki offers an authentic “sight” of Japan in the most magnificently striking fashion. It truly does encapsulate all that we would expect of the Japan of a couple of centuries past. The ground floor entrance might be contemporary and anonymous but as one ascends the single flight of stairs one is wafted to another world which couldn’t be further away from the glass and steel of the Gherkin which overlooks it.

The bar is the first truly Japanese element one encounters. It has an impressive wall of bottles and a strikingly low seating area. This isn’t a high-stool-swivelling night-clubby drinking hole. It’s tasteful and charming and introduces one to the still more stunning restaurant.

Soseki have avoided mass-produced beers and wines. They have developed a considerable range of "pure rice" junmai sake, some Japanese rice beers (it's the only restaurant in the UK serving Koshihikari Echigo rice beer and Hitachino red rice ale), and rice shochu. The wines have been selected specifically to enhance the food rather than overpowering the delicate flavours.restaurant review asian

This restaurant is a vision of dark wood, tatami mats and kimono fabrics. There are intricate wooden shutters and painted ceiling panels. I wouldn’t, however, describe Soseki as “themed”; that word denotes a contrived style. There is nothing that seems artificial here. It’s more transported than themed. More engaging than engineered. This is the real thing and Natsume Soseki would have felt quite at home.

We were shown to our dining cabin. Yes, indeed, a small raised room at the end of the restaurant. There are two compartments inside this cosy and intimate space. The first holds half a dozen guests and the second was our nest for two for the evening.  A calm vantage point to watch the sushi preparation area and our fellow diners. Many of those guests were themselves Japanese: ex-patriots are a reassuring sign when one is looking for authenticity of any ethnic cuisine.

We settled ourselves in our cocoon of a booth and perused the bill of fare. The menu at Soseki is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of 'kaiseki-kappo' or Japan’s haut cuisine. This fashion of cooking originated in celebrated restaurants in 19th century Osaka. But unlike European haut cuisine, the Japanese rely solely on light and fresh ingredients and outstanding presentation. No heavy and cream-laden sauces here.

Perhaps it’s not so much a menu as a suggestion of courses of different cooking styles. The main ingredients are what’s best that day. The finest quality fish from sustainable sources. Soseki has received numerous awards including the prestigious Green Apple Award for the Environment, and the RSPCA Award for Animal Welfare. You can enjoy the best south-coast seafood without guilt. The use of seasonal fruit and vegetables ensures that the dishes change often. One could visit frequently and find new culinary creations to tempt.asian restaurant review

Sakizuke appetizer was a confection of quail, both egg and flesh. A punch of chilli heat was unexpected but delicious. The shimmer of gold leaf added to the impression of opulence and held great promise for the rest of the meal.

Wan Mono Soup served in a lidded lacquered bowl had great flavour. Sashimi was a collection of raw fish and in this case salmon, yellowtail, sea bass and sole. A simple dish which relies on quality for its success.

Mushimono will be your steamed dish and this evening it was savoury custard. This was a triumph of texture and subtle taste. Served in a lidded ceramic pot resembling a small boulder - thoughtful and amusing.

Yakimono, a grilled dish, was tender slices of lamb with aubergine, asparagus and edamame beans. You’ll not find
asian restaurant reviewbetter lamb than this: still pink and juicy and with plenty of flavour from the flame. Memorable.

Agemono is a deep-fried dish comprising fish and vegetables with a dipping sauce. The battered foods were clean-tasting with a perfect crunch. Served on traditionally-folded paper mimicking white mountain peaks silhouetted
against the black pottery. Comforting.

The Palate Cleanser today was a small shallow glass bowl of sweet and refreshing melon juice. The drinking vessel was presented resting in a wooden dovetailed box. The authentic cup of choice for sake, I believe.

Nigiri and Maki Sushi was a beautiful presentation of rice and fish in all its guises. A traditional platter of food that was uncommonly good and served with refreshing salad, flavourful miso and pickles. A surprisingly substantial conclusion to the main courses.

Dessert of fresh fruit and Japanese-inspired ice cream served in a martini glass was welcome and a great counterpoint to the seafood, wasabi and soy sauce of previous dishes.
Chocolates made at Soseki will soon be on the sweets menu. Another indication of the Soseki attention to detail. Those specific chocolates might change but be assured that they will all be remarkable.

We arrived as exhausted westerners and felt almost clumsy in the refined Soseki environment. We were amazed but not intimidated. We left with bows to the waiting staff and chefs. Relaxed, impressed and much the richer for the experience. This might not be the cheapest Japanese food around but I venture to suggest that it’s value for money. We will return and sit at the sushi bar, enjoy a flask of fine sake and unwind anew. I cannot fault Soseki in any regard. It’s conveniently situated but easily overlooked. Make the effort to seek it out at the foot of the Gherkin. I promise you will not be disappointed.

Soseki Japanese Restaurant
20 Bury Street, 1F, London EC3A 5AX
Tel: 020 7621 9211
Fax: 020 7621 9210

Opening times:
Lunch Monday to Friday Midday - 2.30pm
Dinner Monday to Friday 6 - 10pm

Visit Soseki here

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Itsu – Notting Hill Gate

I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy the experience. For me, it’s all about the food: a themed restaurant makes me suspicious. Why is this diner being distracted? Something wrong in the kitchen? Iffy ingredients, perhaps?

Yes, Itsu is very definitely themed. It has moving food. Revolving dishes. No, the waiters don’t spin plates for the
restaurant reviewamusement of the guests, there is a conveyor belt which carries food past the assembled and seated company. There are still waiting staff who will escort you to your seat at either kitchen carousel or comfy banquette. Those same Itsu employees will take your drinks order, explain the method of food selection, and they will whisk away the empties.

This turned out to be one of the most laid-back and chilled lunchtimes I have spent in a long while. I now realise why this style of dining really works. It’s the ideal spot for lone lunchers – those who have their dietary horizons set somewhat higher than a curly sandwich or a sugar-laden muffin. I have never felt comfortable eating alone and I know many others who have the same inhibition. Itsu provides an environment of anonymity. One can find a place at the raised kitchen carousel, watch the food preparation for diversion and even engage in witty conversation with the black-clad chefs, who are more than happy to customise your selection with a little extra ginger, a ring or two of additional chilli.
restaurant reviewThere is a first-floor dining room which has a more formal but quirky atmosphere. Armchairs, mirrors and a goat’s head all help to make this a sought-after venue for those who want to enjoy Itsu food in a sophisticated environment.

I have said that the food is, for me, the most important part
of any restaurant visit. Itsu did not disappoint. This is quality food and the presentation is faultless. It doesn’t come fresher or faster than this. One sees the chefs chop and plate the dishes. They are placed on the moving belt and all you need to do is make your choice from a wide range of fish, meat and vegetable offerings.

Perhaps those dishes could be more accurately described as plates, for that’s just what they are: saucer-sized
plates with coloured rims which indicate the cost of that item. The food meanders by with the saucers balanced on name-emblazoned pedestals. Chop-sticks, serviettes, spoons, wasabe and soy sauce are all to hand, so nothing more to do than grab the food and enjoy.

That food is fresh, well-flavoured and delicious. Visit with a
friend and you’ll be able to share many of the dishes. Myrestaurant review guest chose to start his meal with something other than the conveyor-belt fare. Yes, there is a selection of hot favourites, like tempura. Itsu has a “famous” Chicken and Coconut Soup. It’s the colour of peanut butter but a rich and warming flavour which is truly quite outstanding. A great start to a meal on those days when the sun refuses to put in an appearance. There is also the traditional Miso Soup for less than £2.00 for a serving.

One of the best value plates here is the Fine Green Bean and Kombu Roll. Once again they didn’t breach the £2.00 barrier. These two hearty rounds of rice and vegetables were attractive and delicious and you would walk away pounds poorer if you ordered them in any other Japanese restaurant. These were one of the bargain white-rim options.


We meandered through half a dozen or so plates of various styles of rice, fish and vegetable confections. Those passing dishes are enticing. The Salmon Sushi was fresh and substantial. The Crab California Maki Roll is well-worth trying; but the stars of the carousel were the two Vietnamese dishes. These were both striking to behold and generous of
restaurant review filling. The Crystal Roll with Fresh Crab was delicate and light. The Crystal Roll with Roast Duck should be a signature dish: the meat was cooked and shredded and packed along with vegetables to present a winning choice.

You might want a pud after sampling the savouries, and Itsu offers some non-Japanese sweets. My guest selected Seasonal Fruit on White Chocolate Yoghurt. The red berries were contrasted against snowy drifts, an idea which I’ll shortly be stealing. A crème brulée had my name on it. It might not be Japanese and at under £3.00 it was great value, but it was also one of the best executed I’d encountered in years . Specks of vanilla bean and a creamy texture were topped with the traditional crunchy sugar crust. I’ll grab that again on future visits.

Itsu ticks so many boxes: quality of food, thoughtfully sourced fish from sustainable stocks, value for money, and a unique ambiance. I might have arrived with a few cynical thoughts, but I left a convert.

Restaurant opening times:
Mon - Thurs:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm
Fri:12 noon - 3pm / 6pm - 11pm
Sat: 12 noon to 11pm
Sun & Bank Holidays: 12 noon to 9pm

Itsu, 100 Notting Hill Gate, London W11 3QA
Phone: 020 7229 4016
Fax: 020 7727 5653

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Inamo Techno Restaurant

Wardour Street is celebrated as one of London’s night-owl alleys. Its selection of clubs and eateries are legendary so it’s no surprise that it also hosts one of the world’s few computerised restaurants. No, a robot doesn’t make the food and each table isn’t supplied with a microwave. Your table is, however, equipped with an interactive menu, ordering system, webcam of the chefs (that’s how you know they are not robots), and computer games.

This all sounds rather jolly to the prospective diner but it isn’t exactly music, computer generated or restaurant review inamootherwise, to the ears of an ageing restaurant reviewer. Call me cynical, but it starts alarm bells. For what is all this technology compensating? Are these interactive tabletops merely a distraction from food that would likely be over-priced and under-done? Would our meal be foil-wrapped or reconstituted, vitamin-enriched space pouches? Only time would tell.

Inamo is a small restaurant with a basement bar. It already has a reputation for innovation as the passers-by confirmed. In fact they didn’t pass by. They stopped and whipped out the cameras. That’s gotta be a first. Will we diners find our visages on the front of the Osaka Daily Worker?

It’s a restaurant with the ambience of a nightclub. We arrived at 6pm and the place was already half full so it also appeals, evidently, to office workers and tourists in the know. The dining area is furnished with the intriguing tables, which at first glance seem quite ordinary. On further inspection one notices that the colourful tablecloths are projected from what look like industrial ventilators on the ceiling. A taste of what was in store.

We settled ourselves at our table, or should we call it a terminal? We were introduced to the workings of the interactive table/waiter/menu/gaming console/taxi rank and then we were left to fiddle. Yes, that’s what one does for a while. A tap here, a delete there and we were ready to tailor our evening. Perhaps a change of ambience. A delicate, pale blue Japanese motif seemed in order. My companion and I then each ordered our dishes from our independent menus. It’s possible to hail a 3-dimensional waiter if the computer-illiterate among you start to panic. But the prospect of the food at Inamo was causing me more panic than the over-sized mouse pad.

In truth I had no need to worry. Navishen Mudaly (ex Zuma, Indo-Jin, and Prism) is the head chef at Inamo. He is considered by some to be one of the country's top Oriental fusion chefs. Yes, it’s undoubtedly a themed restaurant but thankfully the quality of food has not been a victim. The dishes not only looked superb, they tasted authentic and would not have been out of place in a restaurant with linen.  The only thing that seemed to cause a bit of confusion with guests was the large, round, white, plastic disc. Was it a plate or a place mat? Some Brazilian diners decanted food onto this, whilst other visitors ate directly from the serving dishes. Not sure if there is yet an established etiquette for cyber-service.

Our food arrived just a few interactive games later. Thai Beef Salad was as good as I have had in even the best Thai restaurants in London. It was amazingly good value being only £8.00 for a generous plateful of tender and flavourful meat served with a tangy chilli som tam dressing. This should be a signature dish.

Then there were:
Seared Scallops, £6.75, thinly sliced with a yuzu and wasabi dressing. These were sweet and cooked to opaque perfection.

Unagi Nigiri,  £5.75, 3 pieces of eel nigiri sushi was my favourite of all the small dishes. I love eel and this particular dish presents it at its rich best. Simple with the traditional wasabi and ginger.

Baby Crispy Prawns,  £7.00, lightly battered, served with a Thai mango relish was the favourite dish of my companion and our waiter. The presentation was attractive and the seafood was moreish. Crunchy coating with no excess oil.

Salmon and Avocado Ceviche,  £6.50, diced salmon and avocado in a marinated citrus and chilli salad was light and refreshing. A lovely dish for a hot summer evening.

I am not a sake connoisseur but I’ll choose that rather than wine when eating Japanese or even Pan-Asian food. I ordered Takara ginjo shin which is one of the several sakes served hot. I used to think that all sake was designed to be served that way but the majority of restaurants now have a good selection of both hot and cold. I would still suggest you try the warmed version. Takara ginjo shin is well worth experiencing with sushi of any kind.

Inamo is a surprisingly good restaurant. I would go there even if there was a breakdown in cyber space. It’s a fascinating eatery but it’s not relying on novelty to encourage business. We noticed regulars here in a part of London which has a wealth of choice. It’s doing well and will continue to do so as long as the quality of food does not diminish.

Opening Times:
Mon-Thu 12pm - 11.30pm
Fri-Sat 12pm - 12am
Sun 12pm - 10.30pm

Restaurant review: Inamo
134-136 Wardour Street,
Soho, London,
W1F 8ZP
Phone  020 7851 7051
reservations@inamo-restaurant.com

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Brasserie One... and more

Would I like to write an article about the food at the Institution of Civil Engineers? Well, I have had some strange requests during the course of my writing career and this one was right up there with such projects as a review of an empty binder and a very expensive saucepan lid.

What do civil engineers eat? I guessed they would be drinking builders’ tea but the food element was not so easy to imagine. Sports stadium stew? Multi-storey car-park crab cakes? No, I just was not getting a picture of anything other than a portakabin of dusty donkey-jacketed, hard-hatted, theodolite-wielding blokes.
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Brasserie One is indeed housed inside, on the lower floor of the Institution of Civil Engineers, but that building is as far away from a portakabin as you could get. It’s typical of the imposing grey stone buildings of Westminster. Solid with steps and brass plaques. The entrance hall is an exercise in neo-classical architecture and art. It was built between 1910 and 1913 as the result of an architectural competition won by James Miller, RSA. Sweeping stairs, oil paintings and heavy wood polished to glowing warmth. The Institution is part of the Film London Partnership and has been used as a London film location for various productions.

We found our way to the cloakroom and deposited our coats. Still no donkey jackets but, rather, lots of men in suits. Off to the brasserie. A contemporary contrast to the grand public spaces. This was light and modern in muted magnolia tones with dashes of vibrancy supplied by the multi-coloured glass shades of the table lights.

The brasserie restaurant reviewis frequented by the members of the Institution and those in the know. It isn’t a restaurant that you’ll likely just stumble over. It is, however, open to the public as is the café just next door. There are also private dining rooms which lend a new meaning to the phrase ‘fine dining’. That term often in reality means that the gravy is wiped from the edge of the plate and the ketchup is in a glass bottle. Fine dining at the Institution of Civil Engineers, on the other hand, is a memorable experience. Antiques, more oil paintings, polished tables and an ambiance reminiscent of embassy functions. They have private rooms here to suit anything from small groups to mass gatherings. Its location and exquisite style has assured that these function rooms have welcomed royalty, heads of state and the great and the good from every strata of society. The packages available are all, however, surprisingly reasonable.

One Great George Street is flexible and contrives to meet every possible entertaining need. There is a screening room, and with prices starting at £25.00 per head with refreshments, it’s within the budget of most event organisers. If you have a large group of close friends then it’s possible to hire the whole of the building. If you have 259 chums then you will be accommodated, as there is space to wine and dine 260 in either the State Room or the Great Hall. There are various function rooms available depending on size of party. All are well-appointed and striking.restaurant review

But we were not throwing a bash and there were just two of us so we settled for Brasserie One. A menu which changes every week reflected what was good at this spring season. Open from 12.00 until 14.30 every week-day, Brasserie One can seat up to 67. If you are just after a snack then the cafe next door provides sweet and savoury lite bites.

I was struck by the prices. £12 or so for some main dishes is far less than one would expect to pay in comparable establishments. It is a neighbourhood where one could be rubbing shoulders with media types or even a peckish politician. I settled on potted shrimp as my starter and it was a generous portion of buttery and well-seasoned shellfish, attractively served in a deep square ramekin. My guest enjoyed his Palma ham with peppery rocket salad, garnished with the classic sweet pear and walnut.

My main course was Omelette Arnold Bennett. This was a hearty plateful of fluffy egg surrounding opaque white smoked haddock. Once again the freshness of the simple ingredients and the more than adequate portion size gave one that warm, cosy feeling of all being well with the chef and his kitchen. David Wilkinson has been Executive Chef at Brasserie One since 2000. He says “It’s my first role as Exec Chef, and I can honestly say with hand on heart that this has been the most enjoyable job I have ever had. The progress that we have made here, not just in the kitchen but also in One Great George Street in general, has been amazing. It's been a great experience, albeit challenging, building up the exceptional team we now have. All this experience has enabled us to cater efficiently for capacities previously not considered, with the quality and standard of the food we offer having improved immensely.”

My partner for lunch craved a bit of meat and was not disappointed with his pork cutlet which he proclaimed juicy and flavourful. It was a thick chop garnished with creamy mash, roasted root vegetables and braised apple. He hardly had room for dessert.restaurant review

The sweets on offer here also change with the seasons, like Mango Panna Cota dressed with diced mango and a mango puree. It’s just the right time to find that fruit at its best in the shops, and used to great effect here. Thoughtful in both execution and presentation.

Brasserie One is a restaurant which works on every level. The food can’t be faulted. The chef sets high standards not only for the restaurant menu but also for function catering. Everything is made on the premises to assure that the good reputation gained over these past years is maintained. Attention to detail and realistic prices guarantee the continued success of this hidden gem.

The Brasserie and Café Bar are located at the Institution of Civil Engineers, One Great George Street, just off Parliament Square, a short walk from Westminster tube station.

Brasserie One
One Great George Street
Westminster
SW1P 3AA

Vist the web site here


mostly food journal

Gaucho by the River

That title paints a pretty picture of a leather-clad rider basking in the last of the evening sun. Pink rays reflecting off the mirror-like surface of the Paraná. Yes, OK, so I looked it up but you get the idea. Well, that dream isn’t quite the story here. The Gaucho in question isn’t a who but a what and the river is the Thames.

restaurant reviewGaucho Grill is one of a small chain of Argentinean steak restaurants. They are more than a cut above most of their competitors and that is due not only to the quality of the food but also the amazing ambiance. This particular restaurant has a prime spot on the Richmond water-front. It’s on the quieter side of Richmond Bridge and opposite the site of the former celebrated ice rink. Some rather swanky apartments now decorate that plot; although the developers once promised a replacement sports facility, one suspects that hell will be freezing over before the ice would on any forthcoming ice rink.

The view is lovely. Gaucho boasts a deck surrounding one of Richmond’s largest trees. This offers the prospect of welcome shade should we ever have a summer, or a nice bit of firewood should our present temperature continue. That spacious terrace can sit up to 130 alfresco diners, with another 100 or so inside.

There is corporate identity writ big here. That is often a negative aspect but Gaucho has cultivated a high-end marque. It’s a vision of black and white. Cow hide decorates several wall panels and several chairs but Gaucho refrains from stooping to the contrived and tacky décor that the subject matter might suggest. There are no bulls-head coat racks and no branding irons as cocktail stirrers. The impression is of tasteful masculinity rather than blokey macho force. It’s a meat-eating establishment but with plenty to charm the female of the species, both on the menu and the walls.

Gaucho offers a good selection of Argentinean wines and they are proudly displayed both behind the bar and as a screen in the restaurant.
restaurant review Wine is nice but a South American cocktail had this girl’s name on it. I have sampled Mojitos many a time and I have found them generally to be very alcoholic and flavourless. Yet I bravely gave it one more try and this version showed just why this drink became so popular in the first place. The tall frosty glass held a light cocktail with real mint freshness. The bowl of paprika-spiced popcorn was moreish and could have tempted me down the route of one too many Mojitos.

We perused the menu and enjoyed some Argentinean rolls and some dark French bread served with both butter and chimichurri dip. This arrived not in the ubiquitous basket but in a shallow black earthenware dish. The salt and pepper were presented in miniature bowls of the same material. The rustic crockery worked well with the contemporary furnishings, still maintaining the monochrome theme. Even the serving staff are dressed all in black and blend seamlessly with the background.

A non-meat starter seemed in order as the main course was going to be bovine-based. I chose Hand Picked Crab with Quail’s egg, avocado, red onion, tomato and mustard
mayonnaise, potato and Aji Amarillo, a yellow pepper. Crab in any form is such a luxuriously decadent dish and when the crustacean has flesh picked by hands other than my own then it’s irresistible. This made for a light but deliciously spicy introduction to the piscatorial section of the bill of fare. Fish eaters are surprisingly well catered for at Gaucho. Plenty of ceviches on offer (raw marinated fish), so my companion tried Ecuadorian Marinated Tiger Prawns in a roasted tomato and lime sauce which he proclaimed sweet, tangy with some heat from chilli, and still with firm texture.

My guest meandered through the drinks list which carries an
restaurant reviewimpressive and diverse selection of Argentinean wines. The profile of each wine includes a reference to the altitude of the vineyard, a statistic not normally mentioned with regard to Old-World wines; but the geographic conditions in South America can have an effect on the characteristics of their grapes. Temperatures and sunlight at a thousand metres or more are very different from those nearer sea level. He selected a Fabre Montmayon Malbec from Mendoza (900metres) which was a well-rounded red with soft tannins.

Meat is king here. Our waiter wielded a board of uncooked cuts of beef and some lamb chops. He described their individual qualities and suggested the best degree of grilling. We each chose a steak and some side dishes, which arrived cooked to order from the open kitchen. I was impressed by my 225g of sirloin, labelled as Bife De Chorizo. It’s a common cut but often dry and unappetising. This, however, was tender and juicy and the 225g was not outfacingly large. A generous portion for any average eater.

My guest has a manly appetite so selected a 300g steak which had been marinated in garlic and herbs. This
was one of the Churrasco spiral cuts and was called Cuadril. It had pronounced flavour from both grill and marinade. It hardly needed the accompanying ramekin of mustard sauce. Well worth trying this particular steak.

Side dishes here are a thoughtful bunch and offer far more than the ubiquitous fries, onion rings and slimy mushrooms. I chose the Argentinean equivalent of Mexican tamales. These Humitas arrived
wrapped in corn husks just as the tamales might have, although I found the Humitas to be a softer and creamier texture with evidence of crushed sweetcorn. A marvellous foil for my pepper-sauce-garnished steak. The grilled vegetables were cooked to attractive perfection and the crunchy bean salad allowed us to feel healthy and restaurant reviewnoble.

You’ll be well advised to save just a little space for dessert. We
were drawn to several and so settled on the Dessert Sampler which allowed us to indulge in Cheesecake with dulce de leche, coffee biscuit and chocolate sauce, Lime Pie with its sweet brittle topping, and Chocolate Cake which was moist and melting, rich and dark. An espresso coffee is de rigueur with such a platter.

Our evening at Gaucho offered everything that one might wish for in a good steak house. Wish, yes, but seldom find. Striking surroundings, superb food and knowledgeable staff. It’s not the cheapest meal out but it’s still value for money. Our evening terminated with a couple of sighs of contentment.


Opening times
Mon - Sat: 12:00 - 23:00
Sun (and Bank Holidays): 12:00 - 22:30

Gaucho Richmond, The Towpath, Richmond Riverside, Richmond TW10 6UJ
Phone: 020 8948 4030
Fax:  020 8948 2945
Email: richmond@gauchorestaurants.com

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The Lancaster London Hotel Peter Pan Afternoon Tea

Peter is a seven-day-old infant who, "like all infants", used to be part bird. Peter has complete faith in his flying abilities, so, upon overhearing a discussion of his future adult life, he is able to escape through the window of his London home and return to Kensington Gardens. Well, who can blame him? He is, however, the only “infant” with such a history to be immortalised in bronze in his beloved Kensington Gardens, and in a book bearing his name.

This year sees the 150th anniversary of Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie's birth! He documented Peter’s adventures and gave all rights to his books to Great Ormond Street Hospital when he died in 1937. Peter is mischevious and iconic, and he conjures memories of a more innocent and quintessentially English world.
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The bronze statue of Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens is one of the most popular monuments in London. He stands along the west bank of the Long Water. This site has a particular importance for Peter Pan and was specially chosen by J M Barrie – an enchanted glade where often, I have heard tell, one can find a golden sheen of fairy dust. But where can one get a bag of good quality fairy dust these days? The 5-star Lancaster London Hotel near Lancaster Gate has a supply.

The Lancaster London is appreciated for its panoramic views over Hyde Park, the largest of London’s Royal Parks; and then there is London’s famous skyline to enjoy. It is one of the tallest buildings in this prestigious area, with over 18 floors. The Lancaster boasts a brace of popular restaurants including the exotic and elegant award-winning Nipa Thai restaurant, but our goal was the Lounge Bar to enjoy an oasis of calm and a traditional English Afternoon Tea with a difference. One might describe it as a tea with character.

Not only does this attractive hotel have an amazing location but it also has that fairy dust. It’s probable that they have cornered the market. Rather than keeping it to themselves the management have chosen to donate a bag of the precious commodity (OK, so it looks like nuggets of bread) to every teatime guest. They have even included a map so you can find your way to Hyde Park to feed the aforementioned fairy dust to the ducks.

restaurant reviewThey do teatime so well at the Lancaster. The Lounge Bar is a vision of gold-hue carpet and dark wood. The bar area is an annex off the wide lounge area, which is lined with low tables, and the chairs and sofas are of the sleep-inducing comfort style. There is just a gentle buzz of discreet conversation from our fellow guests, some of whom were children utterly enthralled by the theatre of the event as well as the prospect of a glimpse of a particular lost boy. The ambiance is casually formal as one would expect and just right for a grown-up tea party.

The afternoon tea here is one of the most reasonable around. It has all the elements of the classic version but with thoughtful, not to mention delicious, extras. The tea table is laid with crisp white linen, sugar bowl, tea cups and plates, not forgetting the small pouches of the essential fairy dust. The traditional 3-tier silver stand arrives accompanied by squeals of delight from the smaller of the assembled guests. However many times I see such a display I am still excited. Nostalgia at its finest.

restaurant reviewCrème Brulée isn’t a typical teatime item but here it is served as an Amuse Bouche before the main event. It was a Passion Fruit Crème Brulée served in a small taster ramekin. I trust this would be available in the Lancaster’s Island Restaurant along the hallway. It was a tangy stunner. One must have some savoury before the sweet so the lowest level of the stand housed the Lost Boy’s Sandwiches. These were a selection of Peanut Butter and Banana on wholemeal bread (sounds a strange combination but this really works), Smoked Chicken, Spring Onion and Mayonnaise on walnut bread; Egg Mayonnaise and Cress on herb bread. There were also miniature Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese scones with chives, and Cheese and Caraway scones with honey-roast ham and mustard. Little additions to the typical spread.
 
Scones are an essential part of any self-respecting tea, and the Lancaster offers Mrs Darling’s Scones (is this poetic licence or is the chef honestly called Mrs Darling?) These are served with strawberry jam or honey, and clotted cream. They were light and flaky scones and a good transition from the savoury sandwiches to the sticky sweetness of the delicately-executed fancy cakes garnishing the top layer of the stand.
 
As one would expect, these tarts, cookies and gateaux were labelled “Peter and Wendy’s favourite treats” and were a collection of strawberry mille-feuille, fresh fruit tarts, dark chocolate mousse, pecan tarts, Viennese shortbread and macaroons. All attractive and delicious, and helped down with several pots of hot jasmine and green tea.

One might not be able to “take tea” every day but The Lancaster provides a lovely venue for passing a few unhurried hours in the most perfect of surroundings. Great value for money for an exceptional experience.

The Peter Pan celebration tea is available in the hotel’s first floor Lancaster Lounge every day from 3pm until 5.30pm.

Lancaster London Hotel, LancasterTerrace, London W2 2TY
Telephone:  020 7262 6737
Facsimile: 020 7724 3191
Visit the web site here

mostly food journal

Pinchito Tapas Restaurant, W1

Pinchito Tapas restaurants were designed and launched by four friends with a passion for food, drink of all kinds and, naturally, all things Spanish. Bruce Bartholomew might not have a Spanish name but he is a founder and director and the man who entertained me at the W1 branch. He has a fine pedigree of over ten years of working in fashionable London drinking establishments, including Beach Blanket Babylon, Zeta (Hilton), Cabaret Prophecy and Hakassan. He is justifiably proud of this, his latest venture.

I wasn’t at Pinchito’s for evening tapas nor for one of their renowned Paella Masterclasses, I was here for breakfast. Yes, dear reader, I can hear you raising your eyebrows, but read on. The Spanish have three meals a day just like the lucky ones in most of the rest of the world. restaurant reviewThe earliest one falls after dinner and before lunch and is called breakfast, or at least it is by English-speaking Spaniards.

Pinchito opens at 10am to catch the passing trade heading for the Tottenham Court Road, as well as a few business folk who want a quiet oasis outside the confines of their office walls. It’s conveniently placed just a stone’s throw from Goodge Street station. It’s not the faux-Spanish style of eatery which is mushrooming all over Greater London. Neither a sombrero nor a straw donkey in sight. No, this is urban. This is city. This has edgy but thoughtfully composed style. It’s not the Costa Brava. This is us.

The high bar, open kitchen, artwork, leatherette booths, stools and black tables provide a convivial space that works for breakfast, lunch or the ever-popular evening tapas. The late morning and
lunch crowd can spread themselves by the windowrestaurant review or people-watch at the tables outside. It’s just far enough away from Tottenham Court Road to provide a bit of peace. The night-time throng can fill the booths near the bar or perch on those high stools in a sophisticated fashion, a trick I have never mastered.

Why choose a Spanish breakfast? Quite simply because it’s varied and delicious. Pinchito offers several of their tapas items that work well as a breakfast or brunch. A traditional morning snack in Spain is a bowl of churros and some hot chocolate. You won’t be disappointed with the version here. The fried, sugar-dredged loops of dough are golden and crunchy with a piping hot and tender interior. They are moreish when dipped into a rich and molten bath of dark chocolate. This is also a favourite dessert tapa for later in the day.
restaurant review

So perhaps you are the savoury sort in the morning. Nothing sweeter than a smear of Marmite on toast? Well, fear not. There is plenty here for you and you could do worse than start with a plate of delicately marbled Serrano ham. Think of your favourite bacon butty and you’ll get the idea. A nice thick wedge of Spanish omelette works well as a foil for that deliciously salty ham. So now you have your eggs and a few potatoes as well. A different presentation from your traditional fry-up but what a fine start to a summer morning in the city.

Pinchito has hit the right note. It is justifiably celebrated for its quality tapas at unbeatable prices. Everything is made on the premises by chefs who won’t cut corners. They use authentic ingredients to present dishes that are as good as you will find, inside or outside Spain. Continued attention to detail and high standards will assure their lasting success. I’ll return for an evening of grazing that won’t break the bank. I’ll start with more Serrano ham, some Patatas Bravas, perhaps a few Padron peppers...

Opening Hours
Mon-Sat 10am till midnight
Sun 10am till 5pm

Pinchito Tapas
11 Bayley Street, Bedford Square, London WC1B 3HD
Phone: 0207 637 3977
Email: info@pinchito.co.uk
Visit Pinchito here

mostly food journal


Santo Mexican Restaurant

Picture this, dear reader: it’s mid-May and the sun is shining. We head out onto the streets of London like lemmings with a mission. It’s the fear of those rays disappearing that encourages the citizens of our fair city, and a good number of tourists, to seek gentle entertainment in the company of their families or those they actually like.

It was on such a day that we sought diversion in Santo on the Portabello Road. It’s a trendy and eclectic neighbourhood with a host of ethnic and arty shops as well as market stalls and antique stores. Crowds of people enjoying some warm weather and looking for some good food at a reasonable price. We, the lucky ones, found Santo.

This small restaurant attracts a mix of discerning locals and curious tourists. restaurant reviewTables outside offer perches
for people-watchers, and rustic tables accommodate others inside. Brick walls and paper banners help to create the ambiance of old Mexico. Those who have travelled to that country will recognise those “papel picado” or paper doilies from restaurants, festivals and celebrations.

Santo lends a whole new meaning to the term “open kitchen”. Chef Fernando is right by the front door with
his hob and work-station. The full kitchen at the back of the restaurant provides the slow-cooked ingredients but the assembly is in full view of the customers. It’s culinary theatre, and fascinating.

We settled ourselves and perused the drinks menu. Fernando has a good selection of Mexican favourites and the Margaritas are the most popular choice for the regulars here. I ordered the classic with a delicately salted rim. My companion chose a Flor de Jamaica which proved to be a rich red and fruity concoction which would encourage anyone of good taste to try just one more.

Our lunch started with a plate of lettuce garnished with scrolls of cheese, pickled peppers, tomato, black beans and Mexican rice. We didn’t have long to wait till the other dishes put in an appearance. It’s the nature of the Sunday brunch that various plates are delivered one at a time. This is an unhurried meal. One to relax over and talk of the events of the week.

The first of our array of dishes was a Torta Ahogada or "drowned sandwich”. It is a typical dish from the Mexican state of Jalisco and in particular the city of Guadalajara. This was the first time I had come across this dish even though I often eat Mexican food in London. It’s a spicy combination of crusty bread, pork as restaurant reviewfilling and lots of sauce. A messy business if one was to eat it by hand as is typical at Guadalajara football matches, but easily accomplished if one resorts to cutlery.

The next offering was a rolled and crispy taco filled with beef. It was attractively garnished with guacamole, red chilli sauce and sour cream. This one, I found, was easier eaten by hand. Very spicy and flavourful and fun to eat. The crispy cylinder was joined by some soft tortillas topped with Fernando’s signature dish of braised ox cheek. This is a must-try for any beef lover. The flavour is the very essence of beef with a gelatinous and soft texture. It’s becoming a fashionable cut of meat, in the same way that lamb shanks did a few years ago.

More soft tortillas next, but this time with a topping of shredded chicken. This was far less spicy than some of the previous dishes, with a delicate sweetness. The belly pork was another variety and was one of the best Mexican dishes I have tasted in a while, the meat being tender with a real flavour of the grill.

Our final dish was fish ceviche. restaurant reviewThis is a traditional preparation of white fish “cooked” in a marinade. The flesh becomes opaque when steeped in citrus juice. It needs to be left in the acid for only a short period or the texture will suffer. Fernando’s version was just right, with the seafood being served with diced tomatoes for colour.

Santo is a rustic charmer. The food is traditional, authentic and delicious. It’s already the usual Sunday haunt of residents of Notting Hill, but it’s worth a bus ride to enjoy a few convivial hours with food that’s a bit out of the ordinary.

Santo Mexican Restaurant
299 Portobello Road, London W10 5TD
Phone: 020 8968 4590
Visit Santo here

Opening times:
Tuesday - Thursday: 12.00 - 3pm / 6pm - 10pm
Friday - Saturday: 12.00 - 11pm
Sunday: 12.00 - 10pm


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Freggorestaurant review freggo

Well, what is a Freggo? It was once a Freddo but changed its name when it opened a branch in London. Its origins are Argentinian and it fair oozes a certain je ne sais quoi ...or whatever that is in Spanish.

It’s an ice cream parlour, a sandwich bar, a café, a tea shop and a chic little refuge from the overwhelming buzz of London’s frantic streets. It nestles next door to its parent, Gaucho, on a pedestrianised thoroughfare just off Regent Street, offering outside seating whenever we have an approximation of a summer.

Freggo is a boutique café of striking colour and design. There is a high-backed banquette in one corner and stools and coffee tables in another. It’s PURPLE and it’s in capitals for good reason: this is corporate imaging at its slickest. It works. The Argentinian shops, those Freddos, are said to be in pale blue but London’s Freggo has pushed the envelope and discovered a style which is appropriate both for ladies wot lunch and for nightclub revellers who are seeking some sweet calories at 2am.

One might not necessarily connect Argentina with ice cream. We Europeans bow to the Italian idol of gelato or even that of a poor-quality soft ice cream sold from the back of a truck. But, when one thinks about it, one has every reason to associate Argentina with dairy products. They are celebrated for their beef (Gaucho next door is a veritable shrine to all things bovine) and what do cows make? A lot of milk. Combine that with Italian immigrants and you have a formula for ice cream heaven.

The quality of ice cream here is unbeatable. The flavours offer some very traditional Argentinian favourites which you’ll not find anywhere else on this side of a considerable stretch of ocean. There is nothing outlandish here. No mud-slide something or other. No uncooked dough (I have never understood the appeal of that). There is, however, a selection of confections that will reduce any homesick South American to tears. Try a cone or tub of Dolce de Leche which is rich enough to warrant sharing. True, it might warrant it, but you’ll be reluctant to share. This must surely be the signature ice cream.restaurant review freggo

It’s possible to offer several signature dishes in restaurants so perhaps Freggo should take the liberty of listing Malbec and Berries as a joint favourite. This is a vivid deep red sorbet-like ice with fruity but adult flavour. This could be a dessert at the end of the poshest of dinner parties and your guests would not be disappointed. It’s unique to Freggo and can be delivered in a radius of a few miles from the store.

Apart from their tempting ice cream, Freggo have a cabinet stuffed full of traditional Argentinian cakes and these are definitely worth crossing a street or two for. There is much here that is different but all those cakes and cookies that I sampled were delightful. They are made for Freggo by a South American baker in London and give a taste of authentic sweet treats.

Tarte de Marmalada is a crumbly pastry base topped with a quince jam which was tangy and moreish. Hot pancakes with ice cream and Dolce de Leche will have you hooked. The Dolce de Leche is used in many desserts and it’s addictive. It has an almost caramel cream flavour and a gooey consistency. You couldn’t eat a lot of this rich sauce, although you might like to try.


restaurant review freggoAlfajores are not to be missed. They have been popular in Argentina since the mid 19th century, but they have their roots in the Arab world. They are two discs of biscuit (cookie) sandwiched together with Dolce de Leche. Very sweet but ideal with a cup of coffee or even the prized Maté tea, which is said to contain even more antioxidants than green tea. It’s a traditional drink made from a type of holly and drunk from a small hollow gourd using a metal straw. Freggo, though, presents their Maté in a regular cup with a saucer.

If you prefer something less sweet with your cuppa then Freggo continues the South American theme with empanadas. These are pasties filled with various combinations of savoury ingredients, or try their tortilla of chorizo and beans. They also offer a spinach and mushroom frittata as well as a choice of toasted sandwiches. The soup of the day is popular in cold weather and we have plenty of that.

In short, I am taken with Freggo. It’s a simple concept of a small shop selling ice cream, drinks and snacks but it’s one of the best of that genre and the only one to my knowledge that sells such quintessentially Argentinian fare. The ambiance was stylish and comfortable and the staff charming and enthusiastic. This will be my regular central London pit-stop. I wish there were more of them.

Address: Freggo 27-29 Swallow Street, London W1B 4QR

Email: scoop@freggo.co.uk
Telephone: 020 7287 9506
Visit Freggo here


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Browns Covent Garden

Over the last three decades Browns has become a familiar name for those looking for an authentic brasserie experience. In 1973 the very first Browns opened its doors and it has been a popular chain ever since.

We visited Browns Covent Garden and it had anything but the feel of a chain restaurant. There were none of those obvious corporate trappings that so litter other establishments. This had the air of a real Parisian brasserie, and the nature of the building did nothing to detract from that classic ambiance. Browns Covent Garden is housed in the former Westminster Law Courts, built in 1908. It is in fact a Grade II listed building. The function rooms are said to boast the original judge’s bench. The courts were tastefully converted to a Browns Restaurant in 1996 and it now seats 320 on the ground floor. The restaurant didn’t, however, seem like an aircraft hangar. There were several raised areas and pillars and palms to give privacy and a more intimate feel.
restaurant review browns covent garden

The bar is magnificent and even that wafts one back to gay Paree during La Belle Epoch. Silver ice buckets, dark wood, sweeping spiral staircases (one up and another down) dark leather and antique mirrors all add to the impression. Even the waiters wear those distinctive long aprons so beloved of continental front-of-house staff. The walls are muted taupe bathed in light from original sash windows giving views over the bustle of a busy London street.

We were seated on a corner banquette by the aforementioned windows and we enjoyed an elevated vantage point. Our fellow diners were tourists, and office workers who had Browns as their regular Friday lunchtime retreat. It’s difficult to find a solid central London restaurant that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg and isn’t full to bursting. Browns is big enough to be comfortable even when moderately full, but still with relatively speedy service.

I ordered a Mai Tai from the drinks menu, which runs to a stunning 20 pages or so of very respectable wines at reasonable prices. There is a good selection of chilled continental beers and even ciders, so something for every taste and occasion. The waiter was knowledgeable and was able to make good suggestions for food and wine pairings.

The menu is a fascinating and eclectic mix. From Burgers (I got a look at them and they were a cut above anything from a fast food chain, and with enough garnishes to sink a battleship) to Guinea Fowl as well as pies and more. A chalk-board with the day’s specials offered an array of equally stylish dishes.

My starter was a Goat’s Cheese and Red Onion Tart. The cheese was melting and tangy, contrasted by the sweetness of the caramelised onions. The roasted red pepper and rocket salad was a substantial garnish. The tart was piping hot with delicate and crumbly crust.

My guest ordered Chicken and Duck Liver Parfait. This was served with an apple and pear chutney and toasted rye bread and was amazingly good value for money. The paté was light and almost mousse-like and moreish. The fruit chutney was a well chosen accompaniment. Paté is a standard brasserie or bistro item and it’s often dry and uninspiring. This one, however, was delicious and thoughtfully presented.restaurant review browns covent garden

My companion is a man often drawn to fish. He was tempted by several piscatorial dishes from both the main menu and the chalk-board. He dithered over the traditional fish and chips but settled on Monkfish wrapped in Prosciutto. This had its side dishes of buttered new potatoes as well as the colourful and flavourful Sweet Pepper Confit. Monkfish has a meaty flesh but it’s so often overcooked and bland. This dish was succulent and made more interesting by the salty spike of the bacon.

I chose Slow Cooked Pork Belly from the chalk-board as my main course. This was the best I had eaten in a long time. The meat was rich and tender with a soft rind, perfumed with spices, aromatic and adding so much to the dish. It was served atop a mound of real mash with a pool of proper gravy. This was comfort food of the highest order. Nothing fancy but just right in every regard. This should be added to the regular menu.

Desserts at Browns are listed as Puddings and I found that appropriate for this style of restaurant in its quintessentially British location. A good roll-call of classics including Sticky Toffee Pudding and Brownies. I ordered the Bread and Butter Pudding. Here it’s made with brioche, making for a light and rich dessert served in a wedge. The vanilla ice cream sported those black specks to confirm that it had truly been on nodding terms with a real vanilla bean. restaurant review browns covent garden

My guest chose the cheese board. This was indeed a board groaning under the weight of three wedges of cheese (Brie, Danish Blue and Cheddar) as well as enough grapes to grace any posh sideboard, and a pile of crackers. This cried out for a nice glass of port or at least a glass of robust red.

Browns Covent Garden was a surprise. OK, so it’s part of a chain but it has the class of an authentic brasserie. The menu offers a broad spectrum of dishes and those that we ordered were well executed. The wine list was a revelation. If this particular branch is typical of the whole fleet then they deserve to remain a success. Its location and its history serve to make this a must-visit eatery for tourists as well as locals in the know.

Opening Times
Open: 9am (10am Weekends)
Close: 11pm
(11.30pm Thursday - Saturday. 10.30pm Sunday)

Full Menu from: 12noon
Breakfast/Brunch until: 12noon (4pm weekends)

Afternoon Tea: 2pm to 5pm


Bar until: 11pm
(12 midnight Thursday - Saturday. 10.30pm Sunday)

Browns Bar & Brasserie Covent Garden
82-84 St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden, London
WC2N 4AG
Telephone: 020 7497 5050
Visit Browns Covent Garden here

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Afternoon Tea at Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill

Afternoon tea is very much in vogue these days, so why wouldn’t you have a traditional afternoon tea in London, the capital of European tea-drinking? If you are going to the trouble of visiting London then you want to enjoy afternoon tea at its best and that’s just what Hyatt Regency The Churchill offers.

This striking hotel can be found
just a couple of minutes’ walk  away from Oxford Street, one of London’s most popular shopping thoroughfares and a magnet for those seeking therapy of the retail sort. The Churchill has views over restaurant review Hyall londonthe gardens of Portman Square, the sight of which sweeps one back to a gentler age when this open space echoed to the sound of the clip-clopping of horses rather than the roar of Mercedes horse power. It’s not only the hotel in general with those stunning views: the Montagu restaurant in particular boasts windows to this quintessentially London scene. It is named after socialite Elizabeth Montagu and her husband Edward, grandson to the first Earl of Sandwich, whose home occupied part of this site. Black cabs, tourists, office workers now create a moving foreground to the lush vegetation.

The Montagu seats up to 130 guests in contemporary but stylish comfort. Its dark wood, crisp linen, muted taupe walls are bathed in light from huge chandeliers and the aforementioned windows. It contrives to be both traditional and modern and it works. Yes, indeed there are classic elements to this restaurant but they are marvellously contrasted with a bar sporting a bank of horizontal wine bottles (practical but very chic), and the most open of open kitchens.

We have all seen them, those open
kitchens. They are often no more than a slit in the restaurant wall and showing restaurant review Hyall londonnothing more of the chefs than their white-clad shoulders and perhaps a daringly coloured bandana or two. The Montagu kitchen, however, is part of the restaurant. One can watch the theatre of food preparation by staff who, I guess, must be well-behaved at all times. Perhaps that’s the reason why such an arrangement would never do for some of Britain’s more “animated” celebrity chefs.

The Chef’s Table gives a few visitors the opportunity to take an even closer look at proceedings. Once again The Montagu has gone the extra mile, this time in order to give a close but civilised view of chefs in action. The concept of eating at the chef’s table has been around for a while. Other restaurants might have a cramped table for two between the dishwasher and the swinging kitchen door, with the diners’ eye-level being waist-high to the chef, allowing a view of just a profile of a stock pot and lots of blue flames. Here the guests are seated at a raised island with vistas of the whole kitchen. The Chef’s Table seats two to nine people on high stools and is available for lunch or dinner during the week. It costs £75.00 per person for five courses including matched wines, or £95.00 for eight courses including matched wines.

It was springtime in London. Cold and wet and I was looking forward to the comfort of an open fire (yes, dear reader, there is such a thing to hand) and an afternoon tea with all the elegance and charm that notion conjures. As a member of the Tea Council’s prestigious ‘Tea Guild', Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill sounded like an ideal spot for a cuppa and some sweet and savoury delights. I was not disappointed – they presented the most iconic and relaxing of afternoon teas.
restaurant review Hyall london

Even from a distance The Montagu
Afternoon Tea looks like the real thing. Its elegant three-tiered stand carried a selection of those very British finger sandwiches with no sign of a crust. The choice is different every day but be assured they will be delicious and filled with a variety of cheeses, meats, smoked salmon and probably some cucumber on a mix of white, brown and flavoured breads. These are surprisingly substantial but one can feel refined if one cuts a corner and nibbles. This isn’t a race. Eat slowly and unwind, but save some room for what’s to follow.

After the sandwiches I was drawn to the next tier up. The one piled with still-warm fruit and plain scones. Two per person was a generous helping and these were served with the usual accompaniments of lashings of strawberry jam and clotted cream. It might be predictable but it’s been that way for generations for no other reason than that it’s just right.

The top tier held my attention and the cakes. This was a tempting and attractive spread of little fancies as well as some fresh strawberries to make one feel noble. A miniature fruit tart, glossy and dark Opera cake, pink and frilly iced cupcake, Viennese shortbread and some chocolate macaroons were all irresistible. The Montagu Afternoon Tea is served with a selection of teas including Sapphire Earl Grey, Darjeeling 2nd Flush, Organic Bohea Lapsang, Organic Silver Needle and Hand-rolled Jasmine Pearls. I chose the Silver Needle for its light fresh flavour which was a foil for the cream and sugar I had already consumed in the guise of dessert. It was one of those occasions when a cup of coffee just would not do. American cousins take note. For an extra treat, one might order a glass of Pol Roger Champagne which is said to have been Winston Churchill’s favourite.  This particular Afternoon Tea is therefore called the Churchill, in his honour.

Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill is a setting for a memorable and fine traditional afternoon tea. The Montagu restaurant is a calm oasis with welcoming staff and a refuge from all things hectic. Ask for a table overlooking the greenery of one of London’s most stylish squares, and while away a couple of unhurried hours. It’s accessible 5-star luxury.

Afternoon Tea is served every day between 3.00pm and 6.00pm.  The Montagu Afternoon Tea is available at £21.50 per person and The Churchill Afternoon Tea with a glass of Pol Roger Champagne is £27.50 per person.  

For reservations please call 020 7299 2037 or email: montagu.hrlondon@hyatt.com.

Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
30 Portman Square, London W1H 7BH, UK

Phone:+44 20 7486 5800
Fax:+44 20 7486 1255
Email:london.churchill@hyatt.com

Visit The Churchill here

mostly food journal

Roast – the Restaurant

Iqbal Wahhab, now OBE, (awarded that high honour in recognition of his public service and services for restaurant review Roastpromotion of the hospitality industry) is a man famously passionate about food as well as society in general. The Times has described him as "a National Treasure". He uses his position for the benefit of many and we all know how rare that is. Amongst other activities Iqbal works closely with The Prince's Trust, taking children from under-privileged schools in South-East London and spending half-days with them at Roast, and taking them on food education programmes around Borough Market.

He was born in Bangladesh and came to Britain when only eight months old. He is a graduate of the London School of Economics. In 1991 he set up his own PR firm specialising in food, drink and restaurants, and in 1994 he launched Tandoori Magazine. He sold the magazine to launch the award-winning Cinnamon Club in 2001 and in 2003 he co-authored The Cinnamon Club Cookbook (reviewed here). In 2005 Iqbal opened Roast, different in so many ways from Cinnamon Club but still reflecting the same high standards.

Roast is housed in the striking structure rising high over the celebrated Borough Market. Its facade reminds one of a conservatory or a glasshouse at Kew Gardens. It is in fact the portico of the former flower market and has made for a most attractive and unique restaurant.

The entrance to Roast is not one bit historic. There is a choice of lift (elevator) or a small lobby and a flight or two of stairs. We took the stairs as we had been warned that a considerable meal was in the offing. My dear American reader will no doubt appreciate the opinion of David Rosengarten. For those of you from the right side of the pond and beyond I can tell you that he is one of the most well-respected authorities in the US for all things foodie. He once told me that Roast is one of his favourite restaurants in London. We were expecting good things.

It would perhaps have been tempting to contrive an over-themed restaurant with the paraphernalia of produce purveying - a crate of King Edwards, some artfully displayed broad beans and a couple of Webb’s Wonders on Astroturf. But thankfully Iqbal Wahhab and his team rose above that. It’s a comfy and contemporary retreat from the exterior bustle. Every detail is correct and thoughtful, from the salt shakers to the artwork. A solid businesslike ambiance and staff who move with the practised ease of professionals.

restaurant review roast
We were shown to our table overlooking a corner of the market which is a marvel even after closing time. Rather reminiscent of Covent Garden when it still sold fruit and veg. The streets around show an unchanged corner of London, relatively untouched by the Blitz or developers. These streets are authentically old London and exactly what tourists expect but seldom find. Wherever you sit, there is a view - either into the open kitchen, over the market or onto St Paul's Cathedral.

I ordered the Market Tipple – a cocktail which changes each month – which this evening was a Welsh Awakening: a blend of Welsh whisky and quince with a hint of spice and a sunny colour more associated with Maui than Merthyr Tydfil. A comforting welcome on a cold and wet almost-Spring evening. Roast is well regarded by serious tipplers who can expect both classic and innovative drinks from bar manager Esther Medina. She is an award winner who has worked in some of London's leading bars including Lab, Milk and Honey, and Ronnie Scott’s.

The Roast menu is something to linger over. It relies on fresh seasonal produce and is a showcase for the best of New British food. “We didn’t ‘re-invent’ British cooking; there was no intent to place, say, kaffir lime leaves in our potted shrimps, for example. We simply ‘re-introduced’” says Iqbal. There are fish dishes aplenty as well as a Dish of the Day. It’s all hearty and generous food, so go with an appetite.

Fried Sprats with Lemon and Tartar Sauce was my choice of starter. There are some who won’t know what a sprat is. It’s like a large whitebait or a very small pilchard or even smaller sardine. They arrived stacked in a pot and enrobed in golden crunchiness. Simple and unbeatable. The finger-bowl added a practical but genteel air which so typifies the Roast approach of elegantly casual and casually refined.

My guest enjoyed his Wood-Pigeon Breast which was cooked to melting succulent perfection. This is a most underrated meat but it’s a good introduction to game. Pigeon has a delicate flavour that might be described as a cross between duck and turkey. A substantial appetiser.

There were no snap decisions when it came to main courses. There are so many Must-tries here. There were the expected roasts (Wednesday was the day for traditional roast beef and Yorkshire pudding) but my guest was tempted by the Slow-Roast Pork Belly with a side order of Creamed Leeks with Mustard. An amazing slab (a culinary term for the next size up from slice) of tender and flavourful pork with crackling that actually cracked. The apple sauce was tangy and made a great foil for the creamy delicious fat of the meat. A straightforward but great dish. It’s good to see pork belly back in vogue.

The ox cheeks were my choice. This is meat which is being rediscovered. This cut has the most marvellous gelatinous quality and offers the very essence of beefy flavour. Chef Lawrence Keogh has hit upon a recipe that is rich and moreish but it’s unfussy, following the Roast ethos of good British ingredients that need no masking with elaborate sauces. The beef and a mound of mash were joined by a bowl of spring greens which were a revelation. A vegetable that in the past encouraged many to stick to chips, these were indeed a vibrant green with a buttery bite, rather than a limp, insipid, dubious yellow.

It will be the fortunate few who have either been in training, or who have miraculously saved room, for pud. This evening there was Yorkshire Rhubarb Crumble with Custard, amongst many other traditional sweets. My guest being a native of that county, or God’s Little Acre as it is often described, chose this out of patriotic zeal and was not disappointed. The crumble had real texture rather than the too-often-seen uniform sand of a lesser dessert. The fruit (is it a fruit?) still held its form and had an agreeable tartness.

Roast is everything I had heard it would be. It’s often a chancy affair to put your faith in another’s choice of restaurant. David Rosengarten was right on the money with this one. Iqbal Wahhab and his team deserve every accolade and compliment. This is a restaurant with real heart. The reasons for Roast’s celebrity are evident but they are quite simple: quality of ingredients skilfully prepared, thoughtful menu, knowledgeable and charming staff, and a location that is second to none. Outstanding.

Breakfast
Monday to Friday 7.00am - 11.00am
Saturday 8.00am - 11.30am

Lunch
Monday to Wednesday 12.00pm - 2.45pm
Thursday to Friday 12.00pm - 3.45pm
Saturday 12.15pm - 3.45pm
Sunday 11.30pm - 6.00pm

Dinner
Monday to Friday 5.30pm - 10.30pm
Saturday 6.00pm - 10.30pm

All day bar from Monday to Saturday.

Roast
The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL.

Visit Roast here

Read Iqbal Wahhab’s blog here
Email: feedback@roast-restaurant.com
Email Events: events@roast-restaurant.com
Events Telephone Number: 0203 301 4891
Reservations and Enquiries: 0845 034 7300
Fax: 0845 034 7301

mostly food journal

Ed’s Easy Diner, Euston Station

Ed’s is a small chain of classic American diners. It was founded in November 1987 in London by Barry restaurant review edsMargolis. It was the first of its kind in the UK when the first Ed’s opened its doors in Soho.

Over the last couple of decades Ed’s has become a landmark and has been a location for films, television and photo shoots. It’s a must-visit eatery for tourists coming to London, but has equally managed to cultivate a loyal local following.

We visited the latest Ed's which is conveniently located just outside Euston Station. It had only been opened a week but was already full with travellers and regulars. Its attractive and iconic interior is magnetic. It’s the most authentic American diner I have come across on this side of the pond. It encapsulates all that we think of as 1950s Americana: chrome, red vinyl, counter with high stools, and juke boxes.

The music was a big part of the experience. It’s well chosen and in keeping with the retro ambiance. I restaurant review edswould suggest that even those who might not normally be drawn to that style of music will appreciate it in this environment. There are original table-top Seeburg 100 Wallamatic juke boxes dotted around for customers to browse and choose those long-loved favourites. OK, it’s true that some of the subject matter might seem less than jolly. Running Bear and Little White Dove (both dead in a river), Tell Laura I Love Her (dead in a car crash), He stopped Loving Her Today (dead in a box). Plenty of foot-tapping rock-and-roll tunes to keep you from the brink of suicide, though. All-American and designed to bring back memories for those of us of a certain age.

The kitchen is open, allowing guests sitting at the counter a view of food preparation and plating. Even the kitchen area has those authentic elements to waft you away to a little spot in California in simpler times. Quilted brushed steel panels, shake goblets and bottles of French’s mustard add to the impression.

I ordered a cheese burger. It just seemed right to have that most popular of diner fare. A bowl of wet fries kept me company while my beef patty was grilled. Ed offers a selection of fries from the classic and unadorned chips to those coated with chilli, cheese, bacon and cheese, and chilli and cheese. Atomic American Fries have jalapeno jelly, chilli, sour cream, cheddar cheese sauce and guacamole on the side but that’s a meal in its own right. The aforementioned wet fries are chunky chips with a brown gravy. Delicious when eaten piping hot.

The burger was made from 5oz of lean ground fully traceable, prime British Beef, each one grilled to order. Hamburgers are cooked medium or medium well. The management discourage well-cooked burgers as they restaurant review edsfeel it ruins the quality of the finished product. Mine was a succulent and flavourful burger and was a substantial meal. There is a good selection of burgers from the Classic garnished with griddled onions, the Original with lettuce and tomato, to the Big Bubba with added bacon and cheese.

My guest, a man who is a self-confessed hot dog aficionado, was tempted by a Chilli Dog. This is a large beef hot dog said to be made to a traditional American recipe. The dish starts as a sausage in a bun but then there is a liberal pouring of zesty chilli con carne. It’s a knife and fork job, unless you want it as a take-away to eat at home in the bath.

Save room for one of Ed's celebrated shakes or malts. They are served in the aforementioned stainless steel mixer goblets. Each container holds two glasses-worth of thick, creamy drink. Ed's Favourite Shakes flavours include Coffee, Butterscotch, Peanut Butter, Vanilla, Chocolate, Banana, Strawberry, Mint, Banana & Peanut Butter, Mint Chocolate, Coffee & Banana, Oreo Cookies, and Mocha (chocolate & coffee). The malts come in the same flavours so I ordered a chocolate malt …and two glasses. This is the real thing. If you have had an authentic malt in the US then try one at Ed’s. You won’t be disappointed. The manager told us that these are particularly favoured by kids, who are well catered for at Ed’s: they consider children as future tippers and want their continued patronage. They get their own Junior Bites menu and activity sheets.

Ed’s has charm and theatre. It’s a visual, audio and taste experience of first-rate casual dining. The staff are friendly and keen to please. You’ll go because you’ll be curious, but be prepared to become hooked. Great fun.

Ed's at Euston Station
The Piazza between Pret and Caffe Nero.
Opening Times:
Monday – Friday: 7am - 10.00pm
Saturday & Sunday: 8am - 10.00pm
Visit Ed’s here.

Ed's Soho, 12 Moor Street, Old Compton Street, Soho, London, W1D 5NG
Tel: 020 7434 4439
Fax: 020 7494 0173

Ed's Trocadero, Unit 34b London Trocadero, 19 Rupert Street, London W1D 7PA
Tel: 020 7287 1951
Fax: 020 7287 6998

Ed's Bluewater, Unit SVU001, The Water Circus, Bluewater Shopping Centre, Greenhithe, Kent DA9 9SG
Tel: 01322 380 939
Fax: 01322 623 852

mostly food journal

The Five Tuns – Terminal 5

Yes, dear reader, I travel and I expect you, too, will have that delight from time to time. When one flies restaurant reviewthere are invariably tedious hours to fill while one waits for the plane which is still most likely stuck in JFK or Johannesburg. If you are lucky then you’ll be marooned in an airport with good facilities. The Five Tuns is located in Heathrow’s dramatic new Terminal 5 building and could be your refuge from both hunger and boredom.

This establishment strikes the right balance between a traditional pub and the Continental concept of a bar with real food and a family-friendly atmosphere. It’s an attractive airy space located on the top floor. It’s a contemporary vision of dark wood and moquette. I guess many of you won’t recognise the word but it’s a fabric with a pile, oft used as upholstery on London’s buses and tube trains. The material design is different and more thoughtful than the industrial version but it does give a nod to the location.

The menu is a solid mix of standard favourites with a touch of innovation. It has both an all-day menu and a breakfast menu for those who are jet-lagged and those who are still under the misapprehension that to eat well in England one must eat breakfast three times each day... or so said Somerset Maugham.

I visited one cold Monday evening and chose from the all-day menu which offered some gastropubby suggestions. Smoked Salmon served on a Potato Cake with a Dill Mayonnaise would have been the choice had the weather been more cooperative but tonight I was tempted by the Warm Black Pudding Salad with a Poached Egg. This was surprisingly substantial with plenty of well-seasoned black pudding crowned with a well-cooked and richly runny egg, the yolk creating a comforting sauce for the mixed leaves. For the uninitiated this might sound an alarming concoction but warm salad is a classic and a favourite in bistros across la belle France.

Fish and Chips looked tempting as it was served to a family of holiday-makers. Perhaps this is the most iconic of dishes and just what one craves after a week or two spent eating nothing more exciting than paté de foie gras, paella or saltimbocca. Or it could be that the prospect of moist white fish in a crunchy golden batter would be irresistible even sans vacances.

The French waitress confided that her favourite dish on the menu was the Chicken Curry, Rice and Naan restaurant review five tunsBread. I guess that seems exotic to those from a land almost void of decent Indian restaurants. The grilled dry-aged Rib-Eye Steak, Chips and Béarnaise Sauce was, however, the main dish for us. It’s a staple for travellers and terminal staff alike. Its presentation was impressive, arriving on a wooden board as thick as a kitchen table-top. The steak was delicious and perfectly cooked. The accompanying fries were stacked in a metal pot and were chunky, piping hot and the sort one encounters only where there is a skilled chef or a well-practised mum.

The dessert card had lots of traditional puds: Treacle Tart with Clotted Cream, Sticky Date Pudding and Toffee Sauce, Bread and Butter Pudding would all have been appropriate ends to our choice of a rather British supper, but the aforementioned Gallic server steered us in the direction of another one of her favourites, the Chocolate Brownie. I have never been a lover of these often dry articles, but this was a wedge of sheer chocoholic delight. I think this one could be more likened to a chocolate fudge cake with a hint of mousse. It was meltingly decadent and glossy. Nothing more to add apart from an espresso.

The Five Tuns is the sort of spot overlooked by restaurant reviewers. It’s not on a classy thoroughfare. It doesn’t overlook a monumental monument, and you probably wouldn’t have your wedding reception there, but it serves great food at reasonable prices and it’s just where it needs to be to provide a hearty meal for those arriving from or heading to distant climes. A good solid casual-dining spot.

Open every day from 05:30 am until 10:00 pm
Visit The Five Tuns here


cookbook review mostly food journal

Bob Bob Ricard for Afternoon Tea

Ricard is in fact a chap called Richard Howarth and the Bob Bob a wealthy Russian by the name of Leonid restaurant review Bob Bob RicardShutov. Richard gave Leonid the nickname of Bob as he found Leonid unpronounceable. I guess Leonid renamed Richard out of revenge. The restaurant name is a bit of whimsical mathematics. Leonid is said to have put up two-thirds of the finance for the venture so he gets twice the mention.

We were going for afternoon tea. Bob Bob Ricard is found at the far end of Carnaby Street. Yes, that bastion of all things tie-dye and joss-sticky has changed out of all recognition into a street of chain boutiques. BBR is, however, a haven of class with a front door and monograms to encourage the prospective diner to expect something a bit special. This prospective diner was not disappointed.

Designer David Collins has introduced the same humour and melange of cultures displayed by the owners into the restaurant itself. It’s a veritable snapshot of an enlarged Orient Express. A stylish impression of a bygone but classy age when there were plenty of staff to polish the brass. It’s a restaurant which would seat 1930’s starlets, spies from Istanbul as well as Ladies wot lunch. On
restaurant review bob bob ricardreflection it’s a restaurant that should be appealing to anyone with an eclectic taste for the finer things in life.

We were settled into our comfy blue leather-upholstered booth. Plenty of marble-esque table top and aforementioned brass. Each booth is furnished with a power point. No, dear reader, that’s not for your computer. BBR serves breakfast as well as afternoon tea (and every conceivable meal either side of tea), and the socket is for the toaster. An amazingly practical idea. Aside from the energy outlet there is a button marked Press for Champagne. It doesn’t have a tap, it’s rather just a means of calling the champagne waiter. I am sure that button has an almost hypnotic draw for some.
restaurant review bob bob ricard
The afternoon tea here is classic but thoughtful. The crustless sandwiches include tomato bread for the ham and mustard, and coronation chicken on carrot and coriander bread. The ubiquitous cucumber sandwiches are made with onion bread. Nice elevating touches.

Scones at Bob Bob Ricard are served with a liberal helping of clotted cream and artisanal jam. A couple of cups of hot and reviving English Breakfast tea (OK, I know it’s no longer morning but I was the customer and the customer is always right) helped down this substantial spread, and we hadn’t even reached the top of the three-tier stand.

Notice it was “we”. Well, this stand gave enough food for two. I’d recommend you start with just that, if there are a couple of you. In the unlikely event that you are still peckish then try some of the other delights such as crumpets, muffins, teacakes and that toaster.

The top plate would have been beckoning to you while you munched your scones and savouries. It’s the cakes. These were a divine selection of half a dozen miniature fancies that will take you back to your childhood, or they will if you are English and of a certain age. Battenberg, Victoria sponge, Rum Baba and Cream Horn were tempting but the Custard Tart and Chocolate Beleron fair turned this reviewer’s head.

Bob Bob Ricard is ideal for an afternoon break. One can enjoy an unhurried atmosphere of old-fashioned charm and elegance. The staff were attentive and enthusiastic. The location is convenient for shopping trips to Liberty’s and Hamley’s and the prices are no more than one would expect. It’s a spot I’ll return to often – yes, for tea, but I hear the evening menu is well worth exploring.

Bob Bob Ricard, 1 Upper James Street, Soho, London W1F 9DF
Phone:0203 145 1000   
Email reservations@bobbobricard.com
Visit Bob Bob Ricard here

cookbook review mostly food journal

Paradiso Restaurant - St. Christopher's Place

The Paradiso story began with Olivelli's Hotel and Restaurant which was founded in 1934. It became a magnet for celebrities as well as actors from the thriving theatres in the West End, and the haunt of students from nearby RADA. Regulars included the Marx Brothers, Mae West, Danny Kaye and Bob Hope. In 1993 the restaurant was bought by Giovanni and Salvatore Salamone. They have expanded the company and now they have three Paradiso restaurants in central London as well as a Sicilian café at Shad Thames.

I eat my way around central London. I visit the most fashionable of restaurants. I enjoy (mostly) the food from famous chefs, and my behind has garnished some of the most expensive upholstery in Britain, but my spirits are lifted to new heights when I discover a fine neighbourhood restaurant... although this one is neighbour to Selfridges on bustling Oxford Street.

Paradiso Restaurant could be overlooked by the unknowing. It’s tucked away on a car-free street just a few yards from the well-pounded pavements of one of London’s retail havens. St. Christopher's Place is calm and classy and does indeed have the feel of a small market-town street. The restaurant facade gives no clue to the delights within. It’s Sicilian but it isn’t over-themed. It reflects more the real southern European style of tiled floors and marble table-tops.

We settled ourselves at a comfy corner table, admired the contemporary canvases and surveyed the menu. It’s extensive and offers some traditional favourites such as Melanzane Parmigiana - baked aubergines with mozzarella and tomato sauce, as well as Spaghetti Bolognese, but the menu was no worse for those inclusions. There were plenty of dishes that are less frequently offered. Costolette D’agnello Al Vino Rosso - succulent lamb cutlets simmered in a sauce of red wine, thyme, olives and vine tomatoes, and Filetto Di Salmone Al Pepe Rosa - created by the Paradiso chefs, a salmon fillet in a pink peppercorn sauce. We are reserving these for our next visit.

Calamari Fritti, deep-fried squid rings served with tartare sauce, were always going to be my starter. You know by now, dear regular reader, that I am drawn to squid on every menu. It’s often rubbery and unappetizing. I wasn’t disappointed at Paradiso. The batter was pale, crisp and light. Its presentation was simple and it was moreish.

My companion chose Arancina Con Carne as his first course. These are crispy fried arborio-rice balls filled with meat ragù, peas and mozzarella served on a tomato sauce. This one was a cricket-ball sized sphere which oozed its delicious filling. A well-executed version of the popular Sicilian favourite which is so often too dry and overcooked. Nothing wrong with this version as my guest’s empty plate and contented smile confirmed.

Paradiso has a reputation for making its own, quality pasta. I chose Tortelloni Paradiso Chef’s Special as my next course. The ricotta- and spinach-filled tortelloni were served tossed in a sauce of mushrooms, dolcelatte cheese, cream and saffron. The dish was a vibrant and sunny yellow and was truly simple but deliciously tangy and a more than ample serving. The delicate pasta was exceptional and the sauce rich. I lingered over this with the waiter’s recommendation of a glass of Vernaccia Di S.Gimignano. This was the first Italian wine to be awarded a DOC and later upgraded to DOCG. This designation of quality is the equivalent of the AOC that one finds on French wines. The waiter gave excellent and informed advice.

Scaloppine al Funghi, fillets of veal cooked in a mushroom sauce, took the fancy of my guest. This was a substantial plate, and rosemary roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables were included. The meat was tender and the sauce creamy and well seasoned. The chef had not put a foot wrong all evening. Valpolicella Classico was our waiter’s suggestion for this. Aromatic, light, fruity and devoid of excess tannin. An excellent choice for the rich veal.
restaurant review paradiso

It’s difficult, but try and save space for some Dolce. Every item on Paradiso’s dessert menu including their
celebrated ice creams are freshly prepared and said to be made to authentic Sicilian recipes by their own chefs. I am not Sicilian so I can’t swear that these sweets are as good as my grandmother’s back in Palermo but they are gorgeous and not to be missed.

Sicilian Profiteroles were my guest’s choice. The Paradiso management state that you’ve never eaten a real profiterole until you have tried these. They were indeed the best we have encoutered outside mainland Europe. Three large cream-filled balls of light choux pastry covered with and floating in a glistening dark chocolate sauce. Any chocoholic would have been delighted with this classic plateful.

Torta Paradiso, the house speciality - sponge, flakes of chocolate, delicate chocolate mousse and ricotta, covered with a thin layer of dark chocolate glaze, was the one for me. A visual stunner and a memorable end to a marvellous meal when served with a belting double espresso.

Paradiso is deserving of a visit, well, many visits. Its location is amazing, a retreat from the craziness of the capital. It has great transport links, being just a few yards from Bond Street underground station. But it’s the food and the charming staff which will assure your return. We left as two very happy and satisfied diners.

The set lunch menu at Paradiso, St. Christopher's Place is £12.95 for starter and main course
Monday – Friday until 5pm

Opening hours
Mon-Sun: 10.00am to midnight

Restaurant review: Paradiso
9 St. Christopher's Place
London
W1U 1NE
Phone: 020 7486 3196
Visit Paradiso here

mostly food journal

Moët Movies at Axis, One Aldwych

One Aldwych is one of the best addresses. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of London in Covent Garden. This is an area which once boasted London’s biggest vegetable market but which is now celebrated as an iconic space filled with restaurants, boutiques and a market which these days sells crafts and objets d’art...

The hotel is in a convenient location between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from 15 celebrated theatres as well as the Royal Opera House.

One Aldwych is an important Edwardian building. It is now protected by English Heritage who considers its facade worth preserving. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.

Yes indeed a fabulous place to stay when in town for business or touristing, but One Aldwych is a port ofrestaurant review call for Londoners as well as out-of-towners who want to enjoy a bit of evening pampering and a film. The film isn’t compulsory but the Axis restaurant offers an amazing package of Moët champagne and a movie. A full evening of entertainment.

The entrance to Axis is calm and Zen, a vision of marble and a welcome haven from the frantic Saturday evening crowd flowing down from Covent Garden. The anonymous foyer at ground level gives not a hint of the contemporary style of the restaurant. It’s stunning. The space is flexible allowing for groups, couples and large parties. The urban mural of skyscrapers now peeks through metal bamboo which reaches from floor to ceiling. A rather radical addition to the original decor but it works and adds texture to the imposing wall. The thoughtful architecture offers a gallery dining room which, although a balcony, offers privacy to the diners on that level.

The movie menu has a selection of four starters, mains and desserts. The film starts at 9pm so the time constraints make this short menu a practical option. It weighs in at an attractive £38.50 per person and that includes a glass of fizz and a film with popcorn.

Movie-going in London can be expensive, with tickets reaching £12.50. Add another £2.50 for the popcorn and then hope you get a good seat. The one without the kid kicking your back all evening. Axis offers a menu of delicious dishes as well as the champagne for a very reasonable price. The cinema seats 30 or so guests who are able to sip mini bottles of champagne, or perhaps a cocktail might be in order. 93% of regular movie-goers are said to be dissatisfied with the food on offer at their chosen high-street venue. No such problem at Axis.

Rillette of Salmon, blood orange, fennel and chicory salad and a sour dough crouton was my chosen starter. Served with a basket of fresh bread and butter, it made for a comforting start to the proceedings. I munched the light and fresh salad and enjoyed the ambiance of this amazing restaurant. A space which contrives to remain intimate even when full.

The menu offered roasted haddock, salmon fishcakes and braised pork belly, but my main course was Tarte Fines of Wild Mushroom. This was a simple plateful but one of the best European dishes I have eaten in a restaurant for ages. The pastry galette was spread with a duxelle (ok, so it was a paste but I am trying to educate my dear reader) of mushrooms and was topped with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce. That’s a match made in heaven as long as the egg is poached to golden, molten perfection. This one was and it was creamy with the added richness of its buttery coating.

Desserts are too often disappointing. I am not keen on swags and swathes of cream, and a surfeit of chocolate is to be avoided when one is confronted by the prospect of a ride the length of the District Line soon after. Axis offers a selection which hit all the buttons for me and my only disappointment was that I couldn’t try all of them. My guest ordered Baked Jam Roly Poly with plum compote and crème anglaise (custard). This is an old-fashioned favourite and it’s good to see it return to even classy restaurant menus. This version was proclaimed to be particularly good.
restaurant review axis
I chose Poached Rhubarb, as eating fruit always makes me feel noble...ummmm, is it a fruit, though? The pink and glossy bars of rhubarb were garnished with a little condensed milk flan and a crunchy coconut tuille. A refreshing end to a wonderfully well-executed and presented meal which had been amply lubricated by the efforts of Messrs Moët.

The screening room is just through the aforementioned stand of bamboo. The screen is large, the seats comfy in blue leather, and each one equipped with a tray for balancing your beverage and a pot of popcorn. A good lot of legroom allowed me the best movie viewing experience ever. I enjoyed ‘Coco Before Chanel’ immensely but I’ll be keeping an eye on future programmes for other viewing evenings.

I’ll visit Axis often. The ‘meal and a movie’ package is great value and the associated menu is well chosen and memorable. I am sure to return for other films but I have had a glimpse of the regular bill of fare which is also calling to me. Axis doesn’t put a foot wrong.


Axis Restaurant
One Aldwych
1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH
Tel:020 7300 1000
Fax:020 7300 1001

Email: axis@onealdwych.com
Visit One Aldwych here





mostly food journal

Iberica Food and Culture

Michelin-starred executive chef of Iberica Food and Culture is Nacho Manzano, who cooks at his restaurant Casa Marcial in Asturias, in the top left-hand corner of Spain. He is especially well known for his fish cookery and for his new take on traditional dishes. He has become an international ambassador for Asturian cooking.

Head chef Santiago Guerrero is a charming young man from Madrid. He trained both in Spain and in England restaurant review Ibericaand has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain, as well as The Castle Hotel, Somerset and The Waterside Inn. Before joining Iberica Food and Culture he worked as the Executive Sous-chef and acting Head Chef at L’Albufera restaurant in London's Melia White House Hotel, voted best Spanish restaurant outside Spain by their Ministerio de Agricultura Caza y Pesca. Quite an accolade.

Iberica is truly a Spanish centre. There is the ever-popular tapas bar, a beautiful restaurant on the first floor, an art gallery on the landing, a wine niche for small events and presentations, and a deli. This might not be as big as Harrod’s Food Hall but it is stocked with the best of Spanish foods and ingredients, many of which can only be found in Spain or here at Iberica. It’s a measure of the respect with which this amazing establishment is regarded.

At Iberica's imposing 15-metre bar you can choose between fifty hot and cold 'pinchos' and 'tapas' served from 11.30am till late into the night. There are plenty of simple cold dishes, such as cheese and charcuterie platters, shellfish and vegetable salads, croquettes, sausages, tortillas, rices and main-courses which reflect some of what regional and new Spanish food has to offer.

You can linger at the bar with a glass of Spanish wine or enjoy leisurely tapas with a drink at a window table where you can watch London pass you by. Prices start at an amazingly reasonable £1.50 for potato omelette with alioli sauce. The staff can suggest wine and tapas pairings so you don’t need to be an expert on either Spanish food or drink. Help is at hand.

We started our lunch with the Trio of Ham. This meat was carved wafer thin from the whole hams displayed in the aforementioned deli. What could be more evocative of fine food from the peninsula? Ham Croquets and Cheese Croquets will be familiar to those who have enjoyed leisurely hours in celebrated tapas bars in Madrid or even Barcelona. These were creamy, rich and real Iberian comfort food.

Dried tuna ‘mojama’ with homemade thyme bread and almond vinaigrette was new to me. A charming presentation on a slate platter. It’s the attention to detail which sets this establishment above so many others. Quality and care.

Stewed beef cheeks in rioja red wine with creamy chickpea purée is a culinary stunner. This is a slow-cooked dish of tender and flavourful meat. The sauce is glossy and rich and deserving of bread to dip. A dish for a cold winter in London.

Fried fresh squid with alioli is one to fight over. The seafood was tender with breading that was crunchy and light. The garlic mayonnaise had plenty of punch and was a delicious foil for the delicate squid.

Black Rice with cuttlefish, prawns and alioli must be Iberica's signature dish. I have had black rice in the past but it’s never had either the colour or the flavour of this version. Most have been pale grey and pallid, while this had a truly inky teeth-blackening lacquered sheen. Seafood in every bite. A must-try.

Caleya´s caramelised rice pudding and Fried Milk were our dessert choices. They showed two diverse faces of dairy-based sweets. Both were creamy and rich but the textures were different. The Fried Milk was a cube of white, set cream in a crunchy golden crumb. A delight to eat. The rice pudding will be nothing like your mother makes... unless your mum happens to be Spanish and an amazing chef. This was a light cloud with a golden lining.

Iberica offers London's longest list of Spanish wines by the glass, ranging from classics such as Cava, sherry and Rioja to many that will be new to British clients. There is nothing worse than being obliged to buy a bottle of your favourite tipple when you can only drink a glass. The bar stocks a wide range of Spanish beer, cider, brandies, liqueurs, Castile's sweet and dry anis, and Galician aguardiente. An ideal spot to learn more about Spanish beverages of all kinds. They will also be happy to supply you with Asturian sparkling waters, coffee and tea if you need to work in the afternoon.

Lunch will allow you to graze your way through some of the best Tapas outside, or even inside, Spain but the evening experience of therestaurant review first-floor Caleya restaurant shows another facet. This must surely be the address of choice for Spanish fine dining. The chef is the same but the dishes on offer allow chef Santiago to showcase a more formal side of this stylish establishment.

Start your evening as we did at the bar. Order a glass of sherry and try a few slices of the freshly carved ham. They have whole hams from acorn-fed pigs bred by small Spanish producers. It’s unlikely you’ll find better hams than this anywhere else in the UK. A Spaniard whose family breeds pigs told me that the hams here are the best she has come across.

Those hams, or slices of, can be found in the Iberica Deli, next to the restaurant on the ground floor. (Monday - Saturday: 11:30 a.m. - 7pm) If you can’t get to London to visit in person then you can now shop online at http://store.ibericalondon.com/

Caleya is cosy. That’s the first impression. Cosy but still stylish and thoughtfully decorated with paintings owned by the manager. Not scenes of Don Quixote and a donkey but contemporary cityscapes in sepia. Take some time to look at these pictures. Amazing.

If you want an overview of all that is contemporary Spanish cuisine then you could do worse than order the Tasting Menu. Each dish is chosen to present ingredients at their best and some of those ingredients, although traditional, are far from the usual fare found in most Spanish restaurants.

We were regaled with:
Warm salad of baby leeks and spinach, young carrots with chickpea mayonnaise served in a 'cocido' broth – attractive and delicious.

Wild mushrooms served with its jelly, beetroot and rocket leaves was the very essence of mushroom flavour.restaurant review

Stewed belly of cod with sweet pepper consommé, pil-pil glaze was as much about texture as taste. Yes, there is the flavour of fish, but it’s delicate. The flesh is glutinous and comforting.

Grilled fillet of Turbot with sea-urchin sauce and sweet potato purée. Another dish presenting well-chosen ingredients in an inspired fashion.

Roasted shoulder of suckling Segovia lamb with herbs accompanied by mushrooms and green peas is slow-cooked to achieve tender meat - a dish to attempt to replicate at home.

Granita of mixed berries, lemon sorbet and meringue batons, along with Mousse of 'Jijona' nougat with light chocolate sponge and mandarin sorbet, make for a veritable buffet of sweet and summery delights. These are small plates to nibble and enjoy with a glass of dessert wine.

The menu changes with the seasons, so you'll be tasting the best, the freshest and the finest the market has to offer, whenever you visit.

Iberica Food and Culture is a culinary ambassador. It seems to take that role seriously. It takes pride in every aspect of its business, both culinary and cultural. It isn’t just a fine tapas bar and classy restaurant but an inspiring departure from our cooler climate. Iberica isn’t just Spanish, it’s Spain, and remarkable.

Tapas Bar
Monday-Saturday: 11:30am - 11pm     
Sunday:12 - 16 pm (paella menu)

Caleya restaurant
Tuesday-Saturday: 18:30 - 22:30
Sunday and Monday: Closed

Iberica Food and Culture
195 Great Portland Street, London W1W 5PS.
Phone: 0207 6368650
Emailana@ibericalondon.co.uk
Visit Iberica here

mostly food journal

Mestizo Restaurant

I had my first little peek at Mestizo last year. Just a cocktail and some nibbles but it was enough to give an indication that this was a spot to linger over and enjoy. A real meal was in order so off I went with guest in tow to see if that first impression was accurate, or merely an illusion encouraged by one too many of Mexico’s famous beverage.

You might say you like “Mexican” food. You might have had “Mexican” food on trips to the US, and Taco Bell might be your favourite fast food but, dear reader, your experience is probably a faint shadow of the real extravaganza awaiting you at Mestizo.

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar has a convenient location just around the corner from Euston Square restaurant reviewUnderground station, and a few minutes’ walk from Euston main-line station. Its atmosphere is of dark wood charm but the impressive bar hints at fun times to be had. This establishment has a collection of Tequilas (over 130 at last count) enough to make any London-based Mexican quite home-sick. The restaurant has a cult following amongst the local Brits and, evidently, expat Mexicans. That has got to be an indication of this restaurant’s authenticity. It already has the vote of those in the know.

Mestizo offers food that is hard or impossible to find outside Mexico. I wonder why these dishes haven’t had the exposure of other ethnic cuisines. It must be that Europe has only a slight cultural exchange with those countries that rest south of Texas and California. Mexican food has migrated to its neighbour to the North, but has often been adulterated in transit. Tex-Mex food might be vibrant and zesty but it isn’t a patch on food to be found south of the border.

We started our evening with cocktails. Mestizo Spice got our attention. This was an amazing concoction of Casco Viejo chilli-infused reposado tequila, cherry brandy, crushed strawberries, diced red chilli and lime. It’s a tall delicate pink drink with a kick. I am not a cocktail habitué but this particular recipe evoked all that’s impressive about Mestizo – good taste and style.

Our starter was a Mixed Antojitos Platter which was an assortment of flauta (crispy fried rolled tortillas filled with chicken and topped with lettuce, sour cream and green tomatillo salsa), quesadilla (corn pastries filled with cheese, served with sour cream and salsa roja), jalada jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese, served with sour cream) - don’t miss these -, and tamales (steamed corn husks filled with masa and pollo con mole) – an authentic taste of Mexican comfort food.

The Mestizo staff are charming and helpful. Several of them are Mexican and all of them can steer you through what will likely be an unfamiliar menu. Mole Poblano was my co-reviewer’s choice for main course. This is a classic dish of boneless chicken breast served with a traditional mole sauce made of dried chillies, herbs, spices, almonds and chocolate, served with beans and rice and some flour tortillas. Mestizo make all sauces, beans, condiments and salsas in-house. The tortillas, however, are produced by a specialist bakery, although Mestizo do make their own moreish tortilla chips. The chocolate sauce was savoury and well flavoured with a silky texture. An introduction to the subtleties of Mexican cuisine.

Mole Huasteco (a traditional dish from the state of Hidalgo, Mexico) was new to me. It’s a boneless chicken breast served with a huasteco sauce, made from over 32 ingredients, including dried chillies, tomatoes, onion, almonds, garlic, sesame and pumpkin seeds. This is a rich and aromatic dish with an almost liquorice or aniseed finish. This must surely be a signature dish. If you only expect to make one visit to Mestizo then order this.

Mestizo is a restaurant for convivial gatherings as well as intimate soirées. Many other guests had ordered the Taco Tray. This is for two or more and is evidently the meal of choice for groups or couples. It looks spectacular, like so many of Mestizo’s dishes, as well as being fun to eat. Perhaps a good ice-breaker on a restaurant review mestizofirst date.

The Mestizo desserts are worth saving a chink of space for. We ordered Flan Caresro which is the Mexican take on Crème Caramel. Light and sweet in a pool of caramel sauce. Pastel de Quesco y Coco is a cheesecake perfumed with coconut served with mango coulis. An exotic end to a memorable meal. I am sure it will turn out to be the first of many. The Sunday Brunch is said to be worth a visit. Mestizo is without a doubt one of my top five London restaurants.

Restaurant review: Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar
103 Hampstead Road
NW1 3EL
London
www.mestizomx.com
Phone 020 7387 4064
Email eat@mestizomx.com

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Tike Grill and Bar – A taste of Istanbul

Tike (pronounced ‘tikay’) is an authentic Turkish restaurant in the City of London. It’s part of a small but restaurant review tikeclassy chain which began in 1998 in Istanbul. Since opening their first restaurant the four cousins from Adana who together make up Tasty Med have expanded their empire to reach beyond Turkey into Greece, Ukraine and now England. Tike serves traditional "charcoal grilled" barbequed lamb, chicken, kebabs, authentic dishes, fresh salads and pide from the wood-burning oven.

Fenchurch Place is an open square just in front of Fenchurch Street main-line station. It’s a stone’s throw from Tower Hill and Monument underground stations. Its location has made it a favourite eatery for city workers who can enjoy a quick lunch, a lingering mid-day meal, an early evening dinner or a convivial gathering before the homeward commute.

Tike has become the meeting place of choice for the discerning expat Turkish population. They enjoy a taste of home at amazingly reasonable prices. There can surely be no higher recommendation than the esteem of those who should know more about Turkish cooking than I ever will.

Located in a stunning Richard Rogers-designed building, Tike spans two floors and makes the most of the large windows to the front over both levels. The modern decor reflects the style of the building, and the ground floor has an informal atmosphere, set around the bustle of the popular bar and the open-plan bread oven which offers the prospect of amazing food to come.

Inspired by the skills of the Turkish baker, we ordered Lachmajun. It’s a thin bread topped with minced restaurant review tikelamb, herbs and spices. Pide are small pies stuffed with kisir cheese and vegetables, and still warm from the oven. A glass of fine Turkish red made a delightful start to the meal. Tsatsik - light yogurt dip with cucumber - and warm bread kept us company.

Our tray of small dishes were soon to arrive and they were an attractive selection which offered an array of flavours, fresh light salads and creamy dips scooped up with more fresh warm bread. Cherkez Tavugu - creamed chicken breast dip with walnuts - was a particular favourite and a little different from the mezze of the more mundane Turkish restaurants in London. We continued with:

Patlican Salad - charcoal grilled aubergine dip with lemon juice and a hint of garlic.

Gavurdayi - finely chopped tomato, parsley and onion salad with a pomegranate juice dressing - was particularly delicious.

Hayirli - finely chopped Mediterranean flat-leaf parsley, onion and fresh herb salad - was fresh and well seasoned.

Ichli Kiofte are handmade steamed balls of cracked wheat stuffed with minced meat. These were surprisingly light and rather akin to Lebanese kibbe but without the deep frying. A must-try.

Pastirmali Houmus - hot chickpea puree topped with sliced cured meat which gave extra texture and flavour to a familiar dip.

Miutebel - warm oven-roasted aubergine dip sprinkled with crushed pistachio nuts. Creamy comfort.

My guest was tempted by Iskender for his “large” dish - lamb ‘Tike donner’ served on a bed of grilled bread topped with yogurt and grilled tomatoes. This is a considerable plateful and probably enough for two with a selection starters. If you are a lover of kebabs then your head will be turned by this one. If there is a group of you then you might consider the striking ‘Meterlik’ House Special ‘1 metre long Adana kofte kebab’! A real crowd-pleaser.

My main course was Tavuk Kiulbasti - grilled marinated chicken breast fillets - which were tender, juicy and flavourful. This would made an ideal light lunch if you don’t have time to graze on small mezze beforehand.

Kiunefe - warm kadaifi with a soft sweet honey cheese filing and crushed pistachio topping - was one of the traditional desserts on offer from Tike. The threads of pastry were delicate and syrupy. Enjoy this with some dark Turkish coffee or a glass of tea.

Irmik Helvasi is a traditional baked dessert made with fresh semolina and pine nuts, scented with cinnamon and with an ice cream centre. This was marvellously aromatic with a cold filling of real Turkish ice cream which our waiter told us was flavoured with mastic resin. A delightful change from strawberry or chocolate.

Tike is a restaurant which has already cultivated loyal followers. Its transport connections give it a catchment area which stretches from the City to the far reaches of Essex. I have no hesitation in recommending Tike for its quality of food, its knowledgeable staff and its unique design. It’s impossible to visit just once.

Opening Times
Mon to Fri 11am-12midnight, last orders 10.30pm
The restaurant is closed at weekends but can be reserved for special events

Tike Grill and Bar – A taste of Istanbul
5 Fenchurch Place, London EC3M 4AJ
Phone 020 7702 9965
Email ok@tikerestaurant.co.uk
Visit Tike here

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Tortilla Mexican Grill

I had a somewhat cautious invitation from the management of the small Tortilla chain. They had noticed restaurant review Tortilla Mexican grillfrom my previous articles that I have been lucky enough to review some of London’s most swanky dining spots. But for me it’s all about the food: they had obvious pride in their eatery and that gave me the clue that this would be a fun and positive visit.

We found the Oxford Circus branch at Market Place. It’s a tranquil spot just a few steps from the frantic bustle of one of London’s most popular shopping streets. Plenty of fast food down there, but that food is a mile away from the fresh, healthy and delicious offerings at Tortilla. They are presenting sustaining meals that you could eat every day and still feel noble.

This isn’t the Tex-Mex food that so many of us have encountered on visits across the pond. Tortilla takes its inspiration from the Mission District of San Francisco. This is Cal-Mex and relies on fresh produce and food that would be ideal to take to the beach. OK, so London is a bit light on sandy plages but you can still have a relaxing break in one of the four Tortilla restaurants, or take the food back to the office, spread the beach towel on the desk and dream for half an hour.

The Oxford Circus branch is small, comfortable and stylish. Seats outside for smokers and those who want to bask in the blazing British sunshine, and plenty of seating on the basement floor to cater for the lunchtime rush and evening revellers. Simple wooden tables and chairs with cream banquettes are complemented by rich maroon tiles.

Ordering your first meal might seem to be a simple proposition: the menu offers five meal choices, but thenrestaurant review Tortilla mexican grill the fun begins. There are more than 400 possible combinations and more if you include Margaritas or Mexican beer. You are the architect of your lunch or dinner so it’s bound to be one of the best you have had.

I ordered tacos and they were light and full of flavours and texture. You’ll choose different combinations of fillings and toppings to create a totally unique meal. Mine was grilled chicken with rice, black beans, cheese and sour cream. I like a kick of spice so I had a garnish of hot salsa. This isn’t for the faint-hearted so be warned.

The presentation was thoughtful. Metal mesh baskets are the order of the day rather than plates. They are supremely practical but have that touch of style which I find strangely lacking in polystyrene boxes. One finds a cosy corner to perch and adds, perhaps, a drop or two of a hot sauce. Grab a handful of paper serviettes before you start to eat: you might need them.

My guest enjoyed a Burrito of striking proportions (these are said to have been invented not in Mexico but in Los Angeles in the 1930’s). It’s a large diameter package of solid food. He had chosen a braised pork filling which he pronounced to be tender and flavourful. There were pinto beans, sour cream and guacamole, and salsa verde (medium hot) to add extra piquancy. This constituted a full meal and it wasn’t even the large version! There are eating instructions provided for guests who might be new to this casual hands-on form of dining.

Tortilla Mexican Grill has some of the best value food around. £5.00 will present you with a feast. The meats, vegetables and toppings are made fresh on the premises every day. The beans are cooked for ages to give them that authentic consistency. The tortillas are made by a specialist and they are steamed before serving so they are soft and moist. It’s the attention to detail that sets Tortilla apart. You watch your food being prepared in front of you but service is still remarkably quick. I shrink from calling it fast as that might conjure visions of red-shirted youths filling bags with already boxed and soggy fried goods. No, a good meal in a few minutes can be yours at Tortilla Mexican Grill. It will be my habitual halt when I need real food in a hurry.

Tortilla Mexican Grill
6 Market Place
London W1W 8AH
Visit Tortilla here

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St Pancras Grand Restaurant, Oyster and Champagne Bar

Today I have a review of a smart restaurant conveniently situated about 2 hours outside Paris. Good transport links with easy access to city shops. Superb food and waiters who speak English, and a menu in English as well. Yes, that’s got your attention, my dear Anglophone reader! Even better news is that, if you live in London, you’ll be able to visit sans passport. Confused? Well, you wouldn’t be if you noticed the title of today’s superbly written offering.

St Pancras train station was designed by William Barlow in 1863 with construction starting in 1866. The famous Barlow train shed arch spans 240 feet and reaches 100 feet at its highest point. On its completion in 1868 it became the largest enclosed space in the world. It is still impressive to this day and is a marvel of Victorian engineering.

One of the most recognisable features of St Pancras station is the red brick Gothic front facade which was created as part of a competition and became the Midland Great Hotel. The inside of the station still reflects that same brick along with painted metal beams and lots of charm. The original building had 60 million bricks (Did Queen Victoria ask someone to count them?) and 9,000 tons of ironwork as well as columns of fourteen different British granites and limestones.

The St Pancras Grand restaurant has an associated Champagne Bar which is situated opposite the restaurant review st prestaurant itself, on the Upper Concourse. You’ll not miss this amazing sight of a row of booths stretching for yards (it’s Europe's longest Champagne Bar at 95.8 metres). Each one is thoughtfully provided with blankets and under-seat heating for those with frozen assets. Even if you don’t have time for a civilised meal at the restaurant, a glass of fizz and a plate of smoked salmon is always an option.

St Pancras Grand is the brainchild of Martin Brudnizki, the designer behind Scott’s and The Ivy. The restaurant is either casually formal or formally casual depending on your expectations. It has all the style of (in truth, probably more style
than) the celebrated station brassieres of La Belle France. The gold-leafed ceiling reflects a subtle and cosy glow. The tables and chairs are in dark wood and the large hanging spherical lamps add an almost art nouveau air. The only hint of impending voyaging is an imposing illuminated clock.

We headed for the warmth of the main restaurant and settled ourselves at the Oyster Bar. There is a Whisky Bar at the opposite end of the restaurant which was almost as inviting on a winter’s evening, but the oysters and champagne found favour with us as The Grand has an amazing offer of a glass of something special and some oysters. (‘Happy Oyster Hours’ from 5-7pm everyday where they give free oysters with each glass of wine or Champagne purchased at the Oyster Bar. Visit
here to see other offers.) To the uninitiated an oyster is an oyster is an oyster. Not so, and the knowledgeable staff are more than happy to introduce you to an array of molluscs, all with slightly different characteristics.

A glass or two of Laurent-Perrier later, we found ourselves perusing the restaurant menu. Head Chef, Chris
restaurant review Dines, takes evident pride in his food and has sourced some amazing ingredients. British charcuterie was our choice of starter. The Trealy Farm meats were superb and as good as anything hailing from beyond these shores. The choice of pickled onions from The Real Olive Company as accompaniment was inspired. I am not normally a lover of these vinegar-laced vegetables, I find them too acidic, but I could have happily munched on a jarful of these sweet vegetables. This starter was far more than cold meat and pickles.

I was tempted by the Fish Pie. I had noticed that a few fellow guests (both French and British) who were evidently regulars had ordered this. It arrived as a rustic individual pie with a browned potato lid. The fish in its sauce was tender and delicious and well flavoured. Comfort food at its warming best. A dish of buttered leeks is included so my main meal was complete.

My companion chose ham hock, which was served with well-textured colcannon and a parsley sauce. The meat was falling from the bone in red-pink shreds. A robust plateful of old-fashioned good food. The kind of British food that we are at last returning to. The kind that visitors didn’t know existed.

Amazingly we found space to explore the dessert menu. Chocolate Tart with Vanilla Cream, and Burnt Cambridge Cream and Winter Fruits were amongst the pud offerings. I was tempted by the Bramley Apple and Blackberry Crumble and it was just as one would hope. Plenty of fruit and a topping which was crisp rather than soggy. My guest, a man famously afflicted with hollow legs, ordered Steamed Ginger Pudding with Ginger Ice Cream. This presented ginger in all its guises. The pudding was light, the ginger syrup revived memories of those exotic little jars of preserved ginger one is sometimes lucky enough to receive from Santa, the ice cream was seeded with amber crystallised ginger. My companion was a happy diner.

St Pancras Grand restaurant is hidden in plain view. It’s there for all to see but one needs to know where to look. No need for a cross-channel jaunt. A quick trip on an escalator is all that’s needed for you to discover a thoroughly British restaurant showcasing some of the best produce we have to offer.

Opening times:
7am - 11pm daily,
9am - 11pm Sunday


Restaurant review:St Pancras Grand Restaurant, Oyster and Champagne Bar
St Pancras International Station
Upper Concourse, Euston Road
London NW1 2QP
Phone: 020 7870 9900
Visit St Pancras Grand here

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Haché Burger Connoisseurs Ltd

No, I make no apology, dear reader, for introducing you to a burger restaurant, for that is exactly what Haché is. It’s a family business, established in 2004 but they have certainly not modelled themselves on the ubiquitous fast food chains. The food here is strikingly different and appeals to adults with educated palates who want good quality food served in a pleasant environment.

Haché pride themselves on using the best produce to make and garnish their burgers. The beef is 100% prime Scotch steak. The chicken, fish and vegetables are delivered fresh every day. Desserts are made by Haché and the burgers are designed by Haché. Yes, there are burgers here that are exclusive to Haché and
well worth a try.
restaurant review Haché Burger Connoisseurs Ltd
There are only two Haché restaurants so far, one in Camden and the one in Chelsea in the Fulham Road which was our destination. The first thing one notices about a Haché restaurant is, well, the restaurant. The fact that it was a real restaurant was reassuring, and a very welcoming one it was. The tables and chairs are in dark wood and rather reminiscent of classic tea shops, but from waist height Haché is all glitz and crystal, owing more to sumptuous Viennese coffee houses than a golden arch. The Chelsea branch is a tranquil lunch venue for locals but the evening finds it the favourite dining spot for cinemagoers.

We settled ourselves to peruse the menu, which was cosmopolitan and imaginative. Haché Burgers are served on fresh Ciabatta buns rather than the more typical soft sesame seed varieties of Macwendykings the world over. This makes for a more substantial meal. You can have a green salad instead of the bread if you are watching the calories. The standard garnishes are Roquette, beef tomato, sliced red onion and the house mayo, although you’ll be offered numerous other toppings to complete your gourmet patty.

It’s the nature of a burger to be most often made of beef, and it’s true that Haché offers a good selection of these, but there are also several lamb burgers: Lamb Moroccan – chopped lamb with spring onions, coriander and smoked paprika, served with a spicy Harissa dip – will be the undoubted choice for my next visit. Fish lovers are also catered for with Fresh Tuna Steak and Fish & Chips - beer battered fish with tartar sauce served with chunky chips. There are a good number of chicken dishes including Honey-Moutarde chicken burger with grilled bacon and melted cheddar cheese. For a lighter poultry option there is Chicken Caesar Salad and for vegetarians the salad section also offers Grand Avocat - avocado, pine nuts, cucumbers, vine tomatoes, French beans, roasted red peppers on a bed of mixed leaves tossed in Haché dressing.

Tempted though we were by the aforementioned we each had our own idea of what might make a suitable Monday lunch. My companion, in true manly fashion, chose red meat. He was almost persuaded by the Steak Canadian – bacon and mature cheddar cheese with perhaps a side order of onion rings, but the waiter remarked that their Steak Catalan served with chorizo sausage, fresh chilli and tomato jam was the most popular of the beef burgers. This arrived cooked to medium as requested and proved to be a good choice. The beef was flavourful and tender and the sausage was well seasoned with paprika and a hint of warming spice.

Although I am not a full-time vegetarian I often choose the meatless option. Most of the vegetarian burgers at Haché are chickpea-based and I rather liked the sound of the Falafel Blue Cheese burger. Our waiter suggested that the delicate texture would be best enjoyed with a salad rather than the bun and I ordered a tomato and red onion salad on the side. The cheese gave a tang to the soft and light falafel. This was made into a burger shape rather than being the traditional hockey puck or doughnut shapes found in Middle Eastern snack bars. A surprisingly hearty plateful.

It’s the fate of a restaurant reviewer to self-sacrificingly indulge in dessert even when one is not needed. Haché have a short but thoughtful list of sweet delights including Chocolate Brownies served with whipped double cream or Haché Ice Cream (said to be one of the most popular puds), and the classic Eton Mess. We chose Banoffee Pie but be warned – you need to have a sinfully big appetite for this one. It’s a confection that is quite often found on restaurant menus and is frequently a disappointment. This example was memorable in size and sticky deliciousness. Have an espresso and take your time over this one.
restaurant review Haché Burger Connoisseurs Ltd

Haché Chelsea is a restaurant that introduces its clients to the smart side of burgerdom. It’s about ingredients and effort. If you are going to eat a burger then eat the best quality you can find. If you take the trouble to eat out then find a restaurant that has ambience and cutlery. Haché is a fine example of fun casual elegance. We enjoyed our meal and will return.

Restaurant review:Haché Chelsea
329 - 331 Fulham Road, Chelsea, London SW10 9QL
Tel 020 7823 3515
Email hache.chelsea@btconnect.com
Visit
Haché here

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Al Waha Lebanese restaurant, Westbourne Grove


The residents of Westbourne Grove have long been spoiled for choice with regard to restaurants. The standard in this neighbourhood has improved over these last years but it’s still Al Waha which boasts a full
restaurat review al waha dining room every night.

This was my first visit to this restaurant but I had already heard great things from the worthy and the wise in the food industry. The welcome was warm. The restaurant was warm and the mint tea was hot. Sipping that tea gave me time to relax and enjoy the ambiance. Al Waha means "oasis," and that’s exactly what it is. It exudes an ethnic but not overly themed charm. The walls are decorated in a simple but stunning fashion with the work of celebrated calligrapher Mouneer al-Shaarani. (It is he, I believe, who is responsible for Al Waha's logo.) Arabic poetry, sayings and the Holy Koran are the subject matter but even those of us who can read not a stroke of the messages will be struck by their skill and beauty.restaurant review Al waha

The proprietor is Mohammad Bader-Alden Antabli. He is a chef and a man who has dedicated himself to providing the best of Lebanese food. He has a ready smile and infectious enthusiasm for his dishes. He uses traditional and often lengthy cooking methods to provide his guests with an authentic taste of Lebanon. His standard dishes are far from standard and the memory of his Dishes of the Day will last all month.

The amazingly extensive menu offers many dishes found in any typical Lebanese restaurant but there is a world of difference in quality. Mohammad has a hummous (Kawarmah Hummous) but here it is topped with flavourful and tender fried diced lamb and pine nuts. It’s the texture that sets this particular version apart. It’s silky and refined and remarkably different from the more common, almost grainy paste found in other restaurants.
restaurant review al waha
Moutabel, also known as babaganoush, is an aubergine and tahini dip. Yes, another Lebanese restaurant favourite but this one is different, it actually tastes of something and that something is roasted aubergines. The dip has a smoky flavour which comes from charring the vegetables rather than baking them. It takes more effort to make but the end result is a superior product and is good enough to be a signature dish.

Kibbeh Maklieh is a bulgur wheat shell, stuffed with minced lamb, onions, walnuts and pine nuts. These are formed into pointy-ended balls and deep fried. They are a popular mezze item and should be crunchy on the outside and meltingly moist and flavourful on the inside. These were, and they were moreish.

Falafel is found on fast-food carts all over the world. If you love those dubious nuggets then my advice is not to try the falafel at Al Waha. It will spoil you for that inferior street-food. The mixture of ground chickpeas, broad beans, garlic, onions and spices is worked to an amazingly light consistency. Delicate is not a word often associated with falafel but it does accurately describe Al Waha’s deep-fried delights. A simple dish but remarkably well executed.

Sambousek are small pastries with various fillings. We enjoyed those stuffed with minced lamb, onions and pine nuts, and the cheese tarts were rich and buttery, tangy and flaky – a must for any vegetarian. And there is a raft of other non-meat dishes: Fatayer, pastry stuffed with spinach, onions, pomegranate, pine nuts and walnuts; Warak Inab, vine leaves stuffed with rice, tomatoes, onions, herbs and spices; Fattoush, mixed salad with herbs, toasted Lebanese bread, vinegar and a touch of garlic (this was noteworthy); Moussakaat Batinjan, fried aubergines with chickpeas, onions, tomatoes, garlic and spices; Salatate Al Rahib, smoked aubergines, green peppers, tomatoes, spring onions and garlic; Batata Harra, potatoes cooked with olive oil, garlic, red peppers, spices and green chilli, are also sought after by vegetarians who are so often overlooked by other cuisines.

Soujuk Sadah are Armenian lamb sausages, which have a hot vibrant flavour tempered by tomato and slices of garlic with which they are slowly cooked. Another of our meat-based selection was Kharoof Mahshi, tender lamb with rice, herbs, and nuts, served with fresh cucumber yoghurt salad. This was the Thursday special and worth pencilling in the diary – my companion proclaimed this to be one of the best lamb dishes he had tried in a long time. I have no idea if the other daily offerings are so tempting but I’ll make it my mission to try them on your behalf.
 
Baklawa are the celebrated sweet pastries of Lebanon and we had a selection of these sugary treats to munch along with our thick, cardamom-perfumed coffee. But also try the Mouhallabieh, a Lebanese milk pudding topped with rosewater syrup and ground pistachio nuts. This is a light and refreshing dessert and made a delicious and attractive end to our meal.

Al Waha is an award-winning restaurant and it’s easy to understand why. Everything about it merits a compliment or an accolade. It oozes quiet well-deserved confidence. Mohammad Bader-Alden Antabli provides guests with what they expect... and then adds a bit more. My next visit, for next there will surely be, will be on a Monday to sample Dajaj Mahshi (succulent baked chicken on a bed of rice, herbs and nuts, served with cucumber yoghurt salad), although Tuesday’s menu looks enticing...


Restaurant review:Al Waha Restaurant
Proprietor: M. Bader-Alden Antabli
75 Westbourne Grove, London W2 4UL
Telephone: 020 7229 0806
Visit Al Waha here

mostly food journal

Loch Fyne restaurant Twickenham

Formed in 1998, Loch Fyne Restaurants was established to cultivate oysters in the clear, clean waters of Loch Fyne in Scotland. The company has now grown to 46 sites and they employ over 1,200 staff working all over the UK. They don’t sell just oysters but fish in all its guises and even some meat dishes. They are committed to independent producers who use sustainable methods to deliver high quality foods. We are told that fish is good for us but we should all be concerned about about fish stocks and sustainability.

The Loch Fyne restaurant in Twickenham is housed in a former pub. It has retained much of its earlier restaurant review loch fynecharacter with oak-panelling contrasted with light cream walls. The original bar is still there although part replaced by a fish-on-ice display. There are chalk boards, and heavy wooden tables and chairs to add still further to the cosy ambiance. The layout of the old building might not do the serving staff any favours but it allows the guests the opportunity to find a quiet corner for an intimate soirée, or a roomy spot for a group gathering.

Those aforementioned chalkboards offer the day’s specials which our waiter informed us were some of the most popular dishes. It had a fish pie topped with mash, and gravadlax which I always find appealing, as well as smoked duck; but we wanted to try the regular menu. So we ordered a fruity rosé (Savino Primitivo, Italy and exclusive to Loch Fyne) and considered our selection.

The Loch Fyne menu had classic fish dishes like fish and chips, prawn cocktail with brown bread and butter, and moules marinières, but there is also innovation. How about Char-grilled South Coast squid with bok choi and sesame dressing? Spicy prawn and squid noodles with chilli, ginger and fresh coriander reflects the current desire for fresh flavours and light ingredients.

My guest, a man with traditional tastes, ordered homemade potted shrimps with mace butter and crusty bread. This had a charming rustic presentation with the seafood arriving in a small preserving jar - the sort with the rubber ring and the metal clip. The delicate shrimps were well seasoned and the onion gave an agreeable sweetness. Potted shrimp were a traditional Sunday teatime dish. It’s retro and comforting and there was plenty of it.

Whitebait with lemon mayonnaise was my choice of starter and in keeping with the fashionably old-fashioned theme of my companion. These little fishes had been dredged in flour elevated with a hint of chilli and were deep-fried till just done. Crisp, light and delicious. A squeeze of lemon was all they needed by way of condiment.

Char-grilled Loch Fyne Bradan Rost (kiln roasted salmon fillet) with mushroom, whisky and horseradish sauce was my guest’s main course. This dish is said to have quite a colourful history. Our waiter says the kiln roast salmon was originally going to be regular smoked salmon but the smoke-house burnt down. The resulting fish was eaten by the workers who proclaimed it to be quite marvellous, and so a fine dish was born of an accident. The two batons of fish were almost mahogany in hue and the moist flakes had intense flavour. This was deliciously foiled by the creamy mild sauce, and a bowl of fresh buttery seasonal vegetables completed the meal. 

My main course was Scottish smoked haddock risotto with a soft-poached egg. The egg was just right with a runny yolk of golden richness. The risotto was pale and flecked with herbs. Note that the fish was white and not the “yellow peril” of yesteryear, bright enough to read a book by and filled with artificial colour. This Loch Fyne haddock, along with the salmon, is traditionally smoked over oak chips from old whisky casks. A romantic concept but that process really does impart robust flavour.

The celebrated chalkboards put in another appearance with the dessert suggestions. All the desserts are made in-house, and change with the seasons and availability of fruit. Ice cream, Christmas pudding, apple pie, crème brulée and sticky toffee pudding would have been more tempting had the savouries been less substantial, but we truly had been well fed. We chose the Scottish cheese platter to share. We enjoyed a mature cheddar and a Scottish blue with oat cakes, grapes and a homemade apple chutney.

Loch Fyne has a loyal following of regulars. It’s a restaurant with a solid menu for fish lovers, and committed carnivores and vegetarians are also considered. The quality of food was first-class and the serving staff were knowledgeable about the menu, the specials and the company ethos. An ideal spot to enjoy a glimpse of the seaside near the River Thames.

Restaurant review:Loch Fyne restaurant Twickenham
175 Hampton Road, Twickenham, TW2 5NG
Tel: 020 8255 6222
Visit Loch Fyne here

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Madsen Scandinavian Restaurantrestaurant review Madsen Scandinavian Restaurant

Madsen, a restaurant in the shadow of an underground station. (Yes, dear overseas reader, some London Underground stations do cast shadows, at least when the sun is strong enough to cast one.) OK, so not exactly in the shadow of but just across the road from, and opposite the Lamborghini garage. The very location held hope of something a bit special.

I have visited Stockholm and a glance at Madsen transported me right back there. Tables outside stylish restaurants. Chairs draped with blankets, freezing cold and flurries of snow. (How did Madsen’s management arrange that?)

Mushroom-white walls, contemporary artwork, comfy banquettes offered a refuge from the frigid conditions. This spot smacks of designed informality. It’s evidently high-end but contrives to be accessible, friendly and welcoming. Everything was as I had hoped and brought back warm memories of lunches with my Danish auntie. Flickering candles, heavy linen napkins and a beer called God lager (Hmmm, so that’s how they arranged the snow – friends in high places!).

It’s a rare genre of eatery, being Scandinavian. We might feel we know a bit about this cuisine as we have had the meatballs at IKEA, but Madsen is the real thing. And how different can meatballs be? Very. Consider a Smartcar (no hostile mail please, I am sure they are admirably fit for purpose) and compare with the aforementioned Lamborghini. It’s like that with meatballs.

But we didn’t start with meatballs. We tucked into smuchi. No I didn’t say sushi. These are small, typically Scandinavian open sandwiches: Smushi is a smaller version of the traditional Danish open sandwich called ”Smørrebrød”. We enjoyed the thinly sliced roast beef with remoulade topped with crispy onions, pickled cucumber and fresh horseradish on rye bread, and “Hamburgerryg” which is succulent smoked pork loin topped with tomato, potato and mayo. Each was served on dark bread and might be described as small by Madsen but the quantity of topping is sufficient to be considered a grown-up classy sandwich. Our other starter was a Herring Platter, a medley of three fishes: onion-, mustard- and Madeira-marinated herring served with garnish and rye bread. This is a treat for any fish lover. Each artfully arranged rosette had a subtly different flavour with a presentation that was almost too good to disturb.

You will be disappointed if I don’t mention those meatballs. Madsen’s (the restaurant is named after Charlotte Madsen who is the proprietor) are several cuts above the average. Made from a combination of pork and veal these light “Frikadeller” were served with potato salad, pickled cucumber and rye bread. This was a surprisingly hearty meal.

My fish dish was another substantial plateful: “Stjerneskud,” fried breaded filet of plaice on sourdough bread topped with steamed plaice, asparagus, red lumpfish roe and mayonnaise. The ingredients are presented in an attractive mound, not the over-engineered tower of some too-self-aware restaurants. I often have the feeling that there are chefs behind a two-way mirror watching the discomfort of diners as they consider how to dismantle their order. The breaded fish was light and golden and the plaice was cooked to opaque melting tenderness. Lots of fish. Nothing mean or skimpy, just a good portion of delicious food and attractive presentation. These dishes don’t pose, they beckon.
restaurant review Madsen Scandinavian Restaurant

A lesser reviewer or mere mortal would have stepped away from the table at that point but I felt I had to make another sacrifice for my art. I ordered a cookie and coffee, and my guest manfully picked the Baked Caramel Crème based on Madsen’s Choko stout, served with soft vanilla ice cream. This proved to be quite a culinary triumph and should be a signature dish. Granted, it doesn’t sound promising but it is memorable, delicious and a must-try. It is a sweet concoction with an air of ale, or is it a hint of stout with a creamy finish, or is it rich and interesting and to be discovered for yourself? Yes, I’ll settle for that.

My Kransekage Marzipan biscuit was almost a cake with a soft texture and an almondy hit. Chocolate-dipped ends and a drizzle of icing made this a little sweet fancy. An ideal light end to a lovely meal with many surprises, and all of them pleasant.

Madsen is definitely as good as it looks. A discreet and charming private dining room for a dozen or so can be used for celebrations and corporate lunch/dinner meetings and at no extra charge.There is attention to detail that sorts a great restaurant from a mediocre one. I defy anyone not to be quietly impressed by this slice of Scandinavia, transposed to West London. Its dishes are naturally healthy. You’ll want to eat what Madsen provides because it’s delicious and it just happens to be good for you. This is one of my favourite recently-reviewed restaurants and it’s a pleasure to recommend it.


Restaurant review: Madsen Scandinavian restaurant
20 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 3DL
Phone: 020 7225 2772
Email: reservations@madsenrestaurant.com
Visit Madsen here

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Toms Deli

Westbourne Grove still looks delightful even in a snow storm. The lights of Toms (the Tom in question ownsrestaurant review Toms deli several other London eateries and is also Terrence Conran's son) were welcoming, although the light from almost anything other than a fridge door would have been a relief in such conditions.

The Westbourne Grove locals love Toms as it’s been there since the 1990s and has become something of an institution. Nicole Kidman has graced a booth at Toms as has Brad Pitt. Those booths are in fact made from old Paris Metro seats. Claudia Schiffer has been spotted shopping in the area and perhaps she stopped for coffee as well.

Toms is a deli and café with touches of old-fashioned sweetshop. It is food-lover’s heaven offering every conceivable sweet or savoury delight. It’s a small area that is artfully packed with temptation, and it’s a place with three distinct but overlapping personas.

One is first introduced to the confectionery emporium which has goods hanging from the walls and spilling from every shelf, counter, nook and cranny ...and a ceiling carousel. The buyer for Toms must have the best job in the world. There are continental chocolates nestling close to jars of boiled sweets (think sherbet pips and humbugs). There are bottles of designer cordials and boxes of Italian panattone. The displays change with the seasons so expect an occasional bunny (sugary not butchery) come Easter.

After passing through the front section of Toms one finds oneself on the horns of a dietary dilemma. Some tea and a slice of one of those cakes (these would have previously beckoned to you as you passed) accompanied by a nice sit down... or a little meander around the basement deli. OK, we did the deli first.

This is the savoury version of the aforementioned front-of-house – a veritable Aladdin’s cave of things one would love to try. There is a cold counter for salads, an amazingly good selection of cheeses, smoked meats and some ready-to-eat meals, and all manner of take-away dishes and sandwiches. There are eggs, fresh fruit and veg as well as a surprisingly good display of high-end sauces, condiments. oils and vinegars. This is a small space crammed with culinary Ooooh! and Ahhhh!

Next stop was the upper-floor cafe. It has more of a feeling of a traditional teashop although the addition of those French booths adds a quirky eclectic charm. The cakes are fresh and are difficult to pass up. The lemon drizzle cake was a great choice although they all looked good. If we had arrived earlier we could have sampled Toms breakfasts (served until midday) for which they are so famous. Eggs Florentine, Eggs Benedict as well as the Full English are on offer but come early at weekends or you’ll be defeated by the queue. The lunch menu features salads and pizzas, light bites and soup but this changes from time to time.

Toms Deli is just what you would expect from a smart London district. It offers classy foodstuffs in a stylish fashion. It has a worldwide reputation as a spot to take in when “doing London”. Well worth a visit for gifts for the gourmet in your life, for a cuppa and a cake or more especially for breakfast.


Restaurant review: Toms Deli
226 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RH
Tel: 020 7221 8818

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Taman Gang

Much was promised for this evening. SNOW. Our destination was at the Marble Arch end of Park Lane, a snowball's throw from the bustle of Primark, Pizza Hut, MacDonald’s. A few yards, yes, but a world away in style. It. was like a scene from the old black-and-white movie of Lost Horizons (produced and directed by Frank Capra) when some frozen travellers (we had just arrived from West London) were taken to Shangri-La, an idyllic spot sheltered from the bitter cold where the most amazing food seemed to "materialize so conveniently," as they said in the film.

Paris Hilton was amongst a flock of celebrities to attend the opening of Taman Gang in 2008. It’s the brainchild of Mitchell Tillman, son of the chairman of the British Fashion Council. It is one of the most striking but tasteful restaurants you will ever encounter. Unmistakably themed but that theming is executed with such good taste that the overall result is stunning and charming.

One is welcomed by marvellously carved wooden doors which open onto an exotic vision of mellow,
asian restaurant review taman gangfawn-coloured, etched stone walls illuminated by flickering candles. A flight of steps conveys one to a subterranean cavern of cocooning comfort, complete with statue of Buddha. Low lighting with more flickering candles, an incense stick or two and some orchids helped to reinforce the impression that one has indeed stumbled upon a long-lost marvel.

Taman Gang is a venue with two personas. It is a sumptuous restaurant and bar in the early evening, but the
place is poppin’ after 11pm. It has become a well-established haunt for the smart London clubbers who appreciate its mix of music, dance, food and convenient location. I am a danger on a dance floor and I am a restaurant reviewer, not a judge on So You Think You Can Dance, so I settled for a night in with food.

Ricky Pang, the chef at Taman Gang, is a man with flair, skill and imagination. His dishes dazzle the diner with their perfect delivery and visual composition... and they taste pretty good too. There is attention to detail which is reflected in every element of the restaurant, from the wood-bound menus to the Indonesian-inspired decorations.

My guest and I settled onto a cushion-laden banquette. The table tops are of polished beaten copper which was just the right material to maintain the impression of opulent exotica. We nibbled edamame with sea salt from a miniature bamboo steamer while we waited for our other dishes to arrive.
 
Vegetable spring rolls with black fungus and sweet chilli sauce, and crispy aromatic duck rolls with hoi sin sauce, were the first of our selection to appear. The duck pastries were filled with meat with no sign of the usual vegetable padding. This chef does not skimp on key ingredients.

Spinach and mushroom dumplings (a vibrant green) along with prawn dumplings with chilli soy sauce, and scallop and prawn dumplings with superior soy sauce, were served in a grown-up version of the edamame steamer. Each dumpling was full of the good stuff, delicate and steamed to melting perfection.

A gyoza is perhaps more commonly known as a pot-sticker dumpling. These are made by a combination of pan-steaming and frying to produce a soft top and a lightly browned base. We enjoyed two types of gyoza, the chicken and snow pea gyoza with red vinegar, and beef and foie gras gyoza with teriyaki. Both delicious and maintaining the standard I was now expecting.

Soft-shell crab tempura with green chilli mayonnaise was a star. The batter was light and the mayo flavourful. The presentation was striking with the tempura being offered in a paper cone with crab temptingly cascading over the edge. A nice touch and another indication of care in preparation.

Aromatic duck and watermelon salad with hoi sin sauce was the first of our larger dishes. The watermelon worked surprisingly well and was cool and refreshing. This should be a signature dish from the Taman Gang meat repertoire.
Salmon sashimi salad with Asian mustard dressing is another attractive plate from chef Pang. The fish was arranged like petals of a marigold with a centre of fluffy greens. But the sea bass sashimi salad with aji pon dressing was a culinary stunner. A must-try for any fish lover. The moist flesh flaked into tender scales and was complemented by the well-chosen sauce. This was as good as you would find in any of the best bespoke fish restaurants, and tasted as exotic as it looked.
Our leisurely meal was brought to a sweet conclusion with warm chocolate pudding with green tea ice cream. This was light for a pudding. I had expected something rather rib-sticking and heavy but this soufflé was rich and moist and its association with the ice cream was a marriage made in heaven. A favorite with chocolate lovers who can console themselves with the undisputed fact that green tea does one good.

The thought of tea and the desire to linger a little longer persuaded me to indeed have a warming cuppa before the cold trek home. My peppermint leaf tea was served in a classic metal teapot with the weight of quality. The evening at Taman Gang ended as it had started, in fine fashion. This is one of the most romantic, stylish and delightful restaurants I have ever visited. Everything was as one would wish, from the sumptuous soft furnishings to the discreet efficiency of the waiting staff. The food was excellent and the memory will linger.


Asian restaurant review: Taman Gang
141 Park Lane, London W1K 7AA
Tel: +44 (0)20 7518 3160
Visit Taman Gang here

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Green Chilli Restaurant

It’s just a short distance from the heart of Hammersmith. It’s even nearer to Ravenscourt Park Station, so this is a prime spot for a decent restaurant and Green Chilli is just that. It’s smart in muted colours with contemporary and classic Indian art adorning the light walls. Pine chairs and dark banquettes add to the fresh and modern ambiance.asian restaurant review green chilli

Head chef Bhuwan Bhatt takes pride in the food he produces. He insists that everything is prepared fresh for every dish and he uses the best ingredients he can find because he wants return custom. A good philosophy for any neighbourhood restaurant.

We ordered the starter platter of Punch Ratan which is a collection of five of the restaurant’s most popular appetisers. Aloo papri chaat is crispy semolina with potatoes, chickpeas, tamarind, and yoghurt. This is Indian street-style food and moreish. The sauces give this dish a real tang which works so well with the vegetables. Chatpata paneer tikka is chunks of Indian cottage cheese marinated with mint, saffron and yoghurt and then cooked in the tandoor. A vegetarian delight with real flavour.

Kurkure mushrooms are stuffed with pickle and cottage cheese, deep fried in corn flour to give an interesting texture. These were a particular favourite of my guest. Punjabi samosas of mashed potatoes, peas and onion in crispy pastry were traditional but as good as you will find. Onion bhaji were also regular restaurant fare but the ones here were somewhat better being flat and crispy and far less doughy than the round versions.

Coconut scallops were divine. The tender just-cooked translucent flesh was sweet. The sauce was taupe-coloured and would only have needed some rice on the side to make a complete meal for any seafood lover. My guest professed this to be good enough to be a signature dish.


Lal Maas was a lamb shank from a reasonably tall sheep. It was cooked in hot masala sauce and evidently for a good long time judging from the melting quality of the meat as it fell from the bone. You’ll need a good appetite to do justice to this dish. It’s spicy and robust and hearty.

Butter chicken is a perennial favourite with British diners. The Green Chilli version was a good example of why it is so well loved. Chicken baked in a tandoor and then simmered in butter tomato and cream sauce. OK, so it has a few calories but we need those in this cold weather ...don’t we? The flavour was mild and aromatic.

Dal makhani is one of my absolute favourites from any Indian restaurant menu, although it’s not always available in those other restaurants. Black lentils are slowly cooked (Green Chilli is said to cook these overnight on a cooling tandoor) and then finished with a swirl of butter. This is Indian comfort food at its best. It’s the kind of dish that would tempt committed meat-eaters towards a path of vegetarianism ...or at least a periodic wander in that direction.

Masala Choley are chickpeas cooked in the Punjabi style with garam masala. This has a good hit of spice and is another sustaining offering for vegetarians who still want flavour and texture from a dish.

Romali roti is whole wheat flatbread but amazingly thin and with a surprisingly large diameter. I make roti at home in the usual fashion with a little rolling pin. The method for making Romali roti is somewhat different. It is thrown in the manner of a pizza. The end result of the manhandling is a bread as light as you will ever find. I would choose this over regular roti any day.

Gajar Halwa was our dessert. This was warm, sweet and delicious. It has a flaky and tender texture and is made at the restaurant along with every other item on the menu except the vanilla ice cream. Indeed it is the freshness of the ingredients and the fact that dishes are cooked to order that allows Green Chilli to establish such a loyal following. We were told that nothing is kept from day to day.

We had a lovely meal in convivial surroundings with many others who were Green Chilli habitués. I would visit again just to try more from their menu. Good food at a convenient location.


Asian restaurant review: Green Chilli
220 King Street, Hammersmith, London W6 0RA
Tel: 020 8748 0111
Fax: 020 8846 8539
e-mail: sales@greenchillirestaurant.co.uk
www.greenchillirestaurant.co.uk

mostly food journal

Rasa Sayang

This unassuming restaurant is easily missed. It sits on a side street off the main Chinatown thoroughfare although it still manages to attract a loyal following from the local and not-so-local Malaysian community.

It’s evident that food rather than decor is the draw here. It isn’t over-themed with Chinese lanterns and calligraphy. There is not a jade dragon to be seen. Rather, think Habitat and its Swedish counterpart than the Forbidden City, with a practical no-nonsense appearance. The food, however, a far cry from meatballs and open sandwiches.

Rasa Sayang offers Straits dishes. This isn’t modern fusion, and if it’s fusion at all it’s ancient. It is a cuisine that nods to all the culinary traditions of Malaysia and its neighbours. It has a spice palate of both Chinese and Indian but the resulting masterpiece is unique.

As snow fell, we drank traditional Malaysian tea, Teh Tarik. This was welcome, hot and much lighter than the versions I have previously tried. Chicken Satay is ubiquitous to Malaysian restaurants all around the world. They often pander to “Western” taste and may be nothing more than skewers of grilled chicken with a dip of peanut butter and a dash of soy sauce. Rasa Sayang has satay that is robust and boastful. It has punch.

Gado Gado is a preparation of bean curd and mixed vegetables with a sweet-spicy sauce. Roti Canai was a simple dish but an absolute triumph. This is the lightest and flakiest roti I have ever had. It is served with a small bowl of curry sauce and should come with a warning - you’ll find it hard to resist a second helping. Much better value for money than a cold curly sandwich for a light winter lunch.
asian restaurant review rasa sayang chicken curry

Otak Otak – grilled fish cakes in banana leaf – were delicate and not excessively fishy with a mousse-like
texture. Fried Tofu with a spicy mango sauce was a visual delight. Balls of bean curd are deep-fried to produce a crisp crust and a custard-like interior. The tangy sauce was a good counterpoint. A must-try dish for anyone who has professed to hating tofu.

Nasi Lemak is a hearty plateful of steamed coconut rice and chicken curry. A feast for the eyes. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender and was accompanied by a selection of condiments and garnishes such as peanuts and dried fish similar to the now-absent Bombay Duck of Indian restaurant fame. This added a pleasant saltiness to the rich curry.

The desserts at Rasa Sayang are fascinating, different and delicious. I am a lover of neither commercial ice cream nor banana fritters so an evening at an oriental restaurant often sees me leaving sans sweet finale. This restaurant has some exotic and impressive temptations in the form of Kueh Dada – pancakes of pandan (flavoured with an extract of leaves of pandanus amaryllifolius) filled with coconut; Kueh
asian restaurant review rasa sayang sagoSalat – pandan essence and glutinous rice, subtle and sophisticated; Ondeh-Ondeh – sweet glutinous rice cakes.

The sweet stunner was Sago gula melaka – sago pudding in coconut and palm sugar broth. I can see you, dear reader, cringing at the very thought of sago. Yes, we can all remember it from school days (if one is of a certain age), cooked with water and looking and tasting like wallpaper paste. Sago gula melaka is far removed from that horror. It is, in fact, one of the few restaurant desserts that I would want to replicate chez nous. The sago is set, so there is no unseemly rolling around the plate. The palm sugar had a real flavour of rich toffee. Moreish and memorable.

Rasa Sayang has been open for a year or so and it deserves to become an institution. The quality of food is first class and much appreciated by its discerning regulars. It offers value for money and dishes that are said by the expat Malaysians to be authentic. I am planning a return visit.


Asian restaurant review: Rasa Sayang
5 Macclesfield Street
London, W1D 6AY,
Phone: 020 7734 1382

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Laya’Lina - Modern Lebanese Cuisine

Located on the East coast of the Mediterranean, Lebanon is at the meeting point of three continents: Europe, Asia and Africa. Its cuisine is refined and Laya’Lina is a marvellous showcase for its delicate but flavourful dishes.

Knightsbridge has a reputation for smart restaurants and many do warrant their fine reputations but some do rather disappoint. Laya’Lina is a tastefully understated but upmarket restaurant that is deserving of praise. It successfully balances classic dining with contemporary decor. The ground floor is small enough to be cosy and appealing to couples and small groups, whilst the basement area can accommodate larger groups and hosts music events as well as exotic belly-dancing soirées. Head there on Saturday evenings for those.

My guest and I were at Laya’Lina for the food rather than the entertainment, and that food is justly London restaurant review Laya’linarecognised as some of the best Lebanese around. It has everything you would expect of a traditional menu but it’s the quality that has allowed Laya’Lina to build such a loyal following. The presentation is attractive but a reviewer cannot live by garnishes alone. The food needs to be something special.

We started with a selection of mezze. The vine leaves filled with rice, herbs and spices were moist and light but the tabouleh (Lebanese parsley and tomato salad) was the most authentic I have tasted in ages. This was almost entirely delicious fresh herbs rather than the too-often presented salad of cracked wheat with a sprinkle of parsley. Muhamara is a crunchy-textured dip of subtly-spiced pureed nuts and it is outstanding. I confess that it’s the first time I have found this on a Lebanese menu so I can make no comparison but I can’t see how it can be improved upon. This should probably be one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, and there are few restaurants that can boast a starter with that accolade.

We continued our first course with hummus. Some food historians suggest that hummus was first prepared in the 12th century by Saladin (or more likely by his chef) who was the chap who gave the crusaders such a headache. Cheese Sambusak are small, delicate parcels. Falafel are chick-pea croquettes with a history dating back to the days of the pharaohs. Meat Sambusak are pastry parcels filled with seasoned minced lamb and pine nuts. This selection of small dishes gave a good introduction to some of the most popular nibbles, and to the quality of this restaurant’s food.

My guest ordered Laya’Lina Lamb Shank which was a baby lamb shank braised to melt-in-the-mouth perfection. The meat fell away from the bone indicating that this truly had been cooked slowly. It was served with rice, glazed with a cinnamon sauce, and garnished with nuts. A substantial meal with warming aromatic spices.

Chicken Taouk is a shish kebab of marinated chicken pieces. The chargrilled meat had a real flavour of open-fire cooking and was tender and juicy. The sweet roasted vegetables were a colourful and delicious accompaniment and the garlic sauce was stunning. That little bowl of white purée rested innocently at the edge of my plate but there is nothing shy about it. Anyone who loves garlic will want the recipe for this. It works marvellously with grilled chicken but would be a tasty addition to any roast vegetable platter. Perhaps I’ll persuade Laya’lina to go into full-scale production of garlic sauce, bottle it and sell it to Harrods around the corner.

From the desserts on offer I chose Baklawa, typical Lebanese layered pastries with almonds, pistachios or pine kernels. These are sweet sticky confections that go so well with thick Lebanese coffee. My guest enjoyed a raspberry crème brulée although fresh strawberries with chocolate dip were rather tempting. My advice to a dessert lover would be to order sweets first: there is every chance that you will not find room for cakes and sorbets at the end of an evening being regaled with such delicious savouries. Laya’lina warrants a couple of visits before you are really sure which dishes are your favourites. I don’t much frequent Harrods, but Laya’Lina will find me a regular visitor. This is Lebanese dining at its finest.

Restaurant review:
Laya’Lina
2 / 3 Beauchamp Place,
Knightsbridge, London, SW3 1NG
http://www.layalina.co.uk

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The Mitre

The Mitre has a facade very much in keeping with its smart Holland Park surroundings. It’s a 1930s building that has been used to good advantage by the present owners. It has a surprisingly spacious and light interior thanks to some large windows that overlook a palm-planted courtyard garden. This space isn’t used by the Mitre for outside dining but it’s an asset nevertheless.

Although covering a good few square yards The Mitre manages to feel cosy with its chesterfields and London restaurant review The Mitreleather chairs inviting the bar clients to linger. There is a raised bistro dining area with booths for 4 or 6 guests as well as spacious areas for individual tables providing flexible accommodation for couples and large groups. There is a semi-open kitchen. That is to say you get a good look at the kitchen through a long hatch rather than having the impression that you are sitting at the chef’s table next to the dishwasher.

The staff were efficient and friendly although they had plenty to do looking after several large groups; the waiters were knowledgeable, enthusiastic, charming and calm, no mistakes or delays were evident and that is quite an accolade at this festive time of year.

 We ordered the Duck Board. This is a Mitre signature dish along with its fish counterpart. It’s easy to see why it’s so popular. It’s an ample starter for 2 people and it’s a marvellous thing to behold. The duck board isn’t a plank to keep one’s feet dry but rather a thick and rustic wooden board generously garnished with, well, duck. This is duck in all its guises. Duck rillettes (shreds of duck in its own delicious fat) with a couple of shards of duck crackling (more delicate than the regular pork which you are more likely to have encountered), crisp roast duck with a mound of spiced orange dressing, duck liver pate, and slices of succulent duck breast prosciutto with a miniature skewer of spicy pickled vegetables. A striking presentation of a thoroughly inventive dish. The head chef, Pat Lynch, trained at Scott of Mayfair and Le Pont de La Tour so it’s no surprise that the standard is high at the Mitre.

Our main courses were chosen from a solid British brassiere selection. My Yorkshire sausages with mash and onion gravy were a good example of why these isles have such a good reputation for bangers. These particular ones were the sort that one seldom encounters these days. They had bursting skins and that rich stickiness that comes from a well-cooked quality sausage. The onion gravy was full of caramelised sweetness and there was enough smooth mash to turn the head of a more-than-peckish rugby player.

My guest chose battered haddock, chips and mushy peas for his main course. The fries were thick fingers - proper old-fashioned chips, the sort that are big enough to have a fluffy interior. The mushy peas were a cut above those often found in chip shops: these were light and minty, and more of a purée than a mush. Remoulade sauce was alongside by way of an improvement over mayo or ketchup.

Be warned, come with an appetite or you will not make it to the desserts. These were a pleasing selection of treats. There was the traditional apple pie but also plum crumble for fruit-lovers. I couldn’t resist the sticky toffee pudding. Elsewhere, they are often pale and dry with a skimping swirl of sauce. This little beauty arrived on a large dish and was a glossy dark island floating in a sea of liquid toffee. Worth every calorie.

The Affogato makes for a stylish end to a meal. Vanilla-bean ice cream, a shot of espresso and toasted panatone. Pour the coffee over the ice cream for a delightful hot-cold taste experience. This is a simple dessert to prepare but it does rely on the best of ingredients. This just doesn’t work with cheap and nasty ice cream and a chunk of toasted white sliced. The version at the Mitre was just right.

The Mitre provided us with a warm refuge from a blizzard, an imaginative menu, well-cooked food at decent prices. It’s a popular spot and it’s easy to see why. No complaints from this reviewer.


Restaurant review: The Mitre
40 Holland Park Avenue, London W11 3QY
Telephone: 0207 7276332.
www.themitrew11.co.uk
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Cookbook Cafe – Sunday Brunch

It might not be any longer the Biblical day of rest but it still tends to be the day we ear-mark for special events, loved ones and unwinding. We might treat ourselves to a bit of a lay-in, enjoy a delicious meal, have a read of the Sunday papers, catch up with family and friends, perhaps a walk in the park... relax with...Errrr, so what was that about lovely food? If we are all soaking up the culture of the weekend periodicals and strolling around then who is doin’ the cookin’? I have, dear reader, the solution to the dilemma. You’ll get your walk in the park (Hyde Park) and you’ll even find some reading matter in the guise of a cookbook or two. Visit the Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental Park Lane for Sunday Brunch.
restaurant review Cookbook Cafe – Sunday Brunch
I can hear it now: a chorus of “Has our favourite reviewer won the lotto?” “Does she think we are made of money?” I have taken leave of neither my senses nor much hard-earned cash. You will be pleased to learn that the aforementioned brunch is amazing value for money (under £50 per head) at an unbeatable location.

The Cookbook Cafe is a contemporary restaurant with huge windows onto one of the best corners of one of the world’s most vibrant and exciting cities. It’s bright and welcoming although the split-level dining area helps to create a cosy ambiance with tables arranged to be convenient and appealing to both couples and groups.

Hotel brunches so often disappoint. Perspex cylinders containing long-lingering and soggy cereals flanking half-hearted congealing attempts at a full English fry-up represent the breakfast section, whilst a slowly-drying quiche and curly cold cuts might launch the lunch element. The Cookbook Cafe brunch, however, draws a line in the sand and dares pretenders to compete.

The staff were welcoming and attentive. The champagne and Bellinis were in continual supply along with Bloody Marys and fruit juices. There was plenty of advice about the dishes on offer and the food was, quite simply, marvellous. There were salads and vegetable dishes enough to warm the heart of any committed vegetarian, fish aplenty and meats to satisfy the most carnivorous of visitors. The rustic display of starters offered some simple and standard fare, and the buffet was no worse for that, but we were tempted by other less-common platters.

Seared tuna is a pricey item on regular restaurant menus but here it was laying in ranks. It was perfectly cooked and looking like a tray of semi-precious stones. The nuggets of salmon with a hoisin glaze were a vision of glistening mahogany; a sea of smoked salmon was quickly replenished when there was even the slightest risk of the tide going out.

The cheese board was small but enticing. Cashel Blue and a Cornish brie tempted me. They were presented in perfect condition. The smoked turkey actually tasted as if it had really been on nodding terms with smouldering wood, and the pumpkin was sweet and tender enough to have been invited to garnish the dessert display.

After devouring a plate (well, three) of starters, it was on to the cooked selection. Brunch to me means New York, and New York is Eggs Benedict. This was made while I waited and was everything this simple dish should be: creamy, tangy and moreish. My guest chose a traditional roast with all the trimmings. The lamb (a joint of beef was also available) was detached from the bone with tongs! He is a Yorkshire lad who proclaimed the accompanying Yorkshire puddings as being “reet champion” (translation: As good as you’ll find in Barnsley.) The chafing dishes also offered a mixed seafood casserole aromatic with dill, seasonal vegetables, boiled potatoes, exotic aubergines, and duck in cherry sauce which is a must-try.

I have mentioned desserts in passing but I wasn’t and you won’t be, passing, that is. I am not typically a lover of sweet things but the array of tarts, cakes and brulees was too tempting. My companion opted for an individual lemon meringue pie and a raspberry brulee which he described as smooth and delicately crusted. I chose the white chocolate torte which was rich and creamy and a cut above other versions of the same confection I have recently encountered. All the desserts here are made by the Cookbook Cafe chefs.

Cookbook Cafe Sunday Brunch is the best brunch I have had in many a long year. No exclamations of “How much???” when the bill arrives. You’ll know exactly how much before you lift a fork. Great value for money. This is the spot to celebrate your son’s exam results, your auntie's return from Tierra del Fuego or just Sunday.


Opening times:12.30pm till 4pm on Sundays

Restaurant review:
Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental
1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane
London
W1J 7QY
tel.: 02073188563

mostly food journal

Le Colombier

I started thinking about food on my journey to Le Colombier. I started thinking about engineering, haulage Restaurant review Le Colombierand transport when I arrived at Le Colombier. How did they manage it? Had they transported a bit of France to Chelsea? Was the original restaurant removed in sections from some smart Parisian street? Was the furniture stacked into a UK-bound lorry? Could the traditional zinc-topped bar have been liberated from a French bistro by a man with a van?

Well, no, dear reader, the owner Didier Garnier established Le Colombier in 1998 in an existing building that fits the part of a Parisian Brasserie so well. It’s a vision of cream with blue accents. The restaurant is in every way authentically French. It isn’t French “themed”. It doesn’t have accordion music playing in the background. The staff are French and the menu is French. It IS French.

Le Colombier was a welcome haven after our short but freezing walk from South Kensington underground station. The restaurant was full with more guests arriving to enjoy an evening in the private dining room on the 1st floor (up to 30 for a seated lunch or dinner). You wouldn’t know there was a recession. No hint of credit being crunched or even slightly mauled. As the evening progressed it became evident that many of those convivial clients were regulars.

Although Le Colombier is without a doubt charming and elegant the atmosphere is relaxed. It has the sound of a restaurant being enjoyed. That is to say, a buzz of conversation that indicates that people feel at home. A smart restaurant, yes! A stuffy one, no.

Didier has had years of experience running the St Quentin group of restaurants and he even comes from a family of restaurant owners. His passion for food is evident. The menu reflects brasserie-style dishes, changing frequently to take advantage of the best produce available. Didier isn’t a man to shy away from culinary innovation, though.

There are many starters here that you would expect from any good French restaurant. Oysters, Foie Gras and smoked salmon; but Sardines La Quiberonnaise Millésime 2007-Vintage is the one to try. It’s 2007 Sardines, Lemon, Onion and Toasted Poilane Bread. How come the aforementioned sardines are awarded a vintage? Well, they are in a tin. Yes, preserved and presented like fine wine. Might sound strange but this is an amazing must-try item. France and Spain have long appreciated fish and shellfish in tins, jars and bottles. These are high-quality foods that have an entirely different taste and texture from their fresh counterparts. They take flavour from herbed marinades to create rich and tempting morsels. My guest proclaimed these sardines to be one of the most delightful hors d'oeuvre he had eaten in ages. Simple as so many great things are.

My warm goat's cheese salad was everything a good one should be, and a great deal better than most I have had in either France or the UK. The cheese was tangy with a creamy sauce. The salad was crisp and well-dressed, and the basket of real French bread and sweet Echire butter made a satisfying accompaniment - at no additional charge.

The main courses are all served with their appropriate vegetables so there are no ‘extra’ costs for side dishes. Le Colombier is just amazing value for money. There was a very good selection of fish dishes including sole, monkfish, and salmon with Hollandaise sauce (only £18.20) which I have ear-marked for my next visit.

Today I ordered loin of lamb which was amply garnished with Provencal tomatoes and courgettes. The sauce was bread-dippingly divine. The meat was tender with real flavour and cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection.

My guest tucked into the dish of the day, which was a ragoût of rabbit. This is an underrated meat and too seldom seen on menus. When it’s good it’s unbeatable but when it’s bad it’s horrid. This bunny was moist and flavourful with potatoes that were crumbly and aromatic. This was a substantial plateful.

The dessert menu offered lots of well-loved favourites such as Crème Brûlée, Tarte au Citron and Mousse au Chocolat but I couldn’t resist Crêpes Suzette. There were two generous pancakes with zesty orange and a good shake of Grand Marnier. You’ll not find better. It’s a standard dish but no less delightful for that.

My guest chose Chaud Froid aux Amandes. These are scoops of ice cream with slivered almonds and a hot chocolate sauce which
restaurant review Le Colombierarrived in a jug. There were many minutes of quiet and content nibbling as we both contemplated two very fine French meals.

The wine list was everything you would expect of a fine French eatery at home or abroad. Our bottle of Le Colombier de Chateau Brown (no relation to the restaurant) was perfect with both our main courses – ruby in colour, fruity with a soft palate, and under £30. On the dessert menu were interesting selections of dessert wines, Calvados and Marc.

Le Colombier is an amazingly well-priced gem. There are no hidden extras and no nasty surprises when the bill arrives. The food is glorious and the surroundings will beam you across the Channel. It’s no surprise that this restaurant is so popular. It will add two new names to its list of habitués. We will return!

A la Carte menu available:
 Monday to Saturday 12.00 noon to 3.00pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Sunday 12.00 noon to 3.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.00pm


Restaurant review: Le Colombier
145 Dovehouse Street,
Chelsea Square, London SW3 6LB
Tel: 020 7351 1155
Visit Le Colombier here

mostly food journal

Chill out at Winter’s Hot Spot -
The Howard, London, goes Chalet Chic!
Restaurant Review

The Howard has a superb location. It's just across from Temple Underground station and has a magnificent view of the River Thames. A favourite hotel with this reviewer who has enjoyed not only its location but its friendly staff, quality food and attention to detail.The Howard Hotel

Swissotel The Howard, London now tempts us with some truly Swiss charm with the addition of a traditional Swiss Chalet. It sounds improbable but there really is a bit of rustic Switzerland in the heart of London.

It’s a shame that for most of us Switzerland conjures only thoughts of pointy chocolate and big dogs with barrels of booze, but there is also, for some, that other impression of après-ski culture, log fires, broken legs and fondue.

The winter is here and this chalet beckons. Cold-weather entertaining is about comfort and convivial evenings with friends. What could be more sociable than an evening around a gently bubbling pot of delicious cheese - and I talk from delightful experience.

The Howard has a Swiss chalet complete with traditional Swiss furniture especially imported from the Alps to Central London, the décor looks authentic with genuine antiques and red gingham tablecloths. The fireplace has a flickering faux fire which invites visitors to linger with an after-dinner drink or coffee.

The Fondue will be the best you will find either in or outside Switzerland. You will be presented with a non-ending supply of bread and some cured meats which complement the dish so well. There is a green salad to help you feel virtuous and some surprisingly good Swiss red wine. We were two hungry diners and were unable to finish our fondue. The pot looked a modest size but this is rich stuff and although one of my favourite meals, I was unable to eat another bite. If there was such a thing as a doggy-bag for fondue then I would have been content to carry my supper home on the Underground.

For dessert we were offered Apple Strudel or Zuger Kirschtorte, which I can recommend. This was a cake of three layers of wafer interlaced with cream and its sweetness was a marvellous foil for the savoury cheesiness of the main meal. Trust me, you will not walk away from the table with even a chink of empty space. If you still have a mind to enjoy something special then treat yourself to a Coffee Luz. This is a liqueur coffee with a punch. Take the bus home... or stay the night at The Howard.

Other restaurants might suggest a Swiss theme but we would be comparing the sound of a cuckoo clock to the William Tell Overture. This is a smart hotel that nevertheless offers value for money. There are few places in Central London where one can eat to a standstill for £23.00 per person.

Situated in a quiet oasis close to London’s Embankment, the Swiss Chalet at Swissotel The Howard, London, will also be available for parties and corporate entertaining for 35 to 250 guests. This is a party venue with a difference. OK, so if you want black-painted walls and defrosted frozen nibbles then go to the place around the corner from the office where you have spent every Christmas for the past five years. OR, do you want some casual style and a bit of a winter adventure? The Howard offers great packages for business events and groups.
 
Until 31st March 2010, the chalet will be open for couples and small gatherings every Tuesday evening from 6pm to 10pm. I’d book now, as this is bound to be a hit for the holiday season.

Visit The Howard here.
mostly food journal

Tatra Restaurant

This is an undiscovered gem. The jewel in the crown of an otherwise unpromising West London street. One does not normally mention the Goldhawk Road and fine cuisine in the same breath but here it is and it’s outstanding.

Tatra is a smart restaurant that deserves to be full. It is just a few yards from the bustle of Shepherds Bush Green. It is simple and contemporary. The interior is in fact designed by one of the proprietors, Sylwia Judycka. She confesses to not being a trained restaurant designer but has done marvellous work transforming the space from iffy red and white to restful and sophisticated mushroom tones. Notice the abstract art on the brick wall? That’s another of Sylwia’s masterworks.

This is a light restaurant during the day. High ceilings still display hints of Victorian moulding. There are candles in niches which change the ambiance from daytime restful retreat to night-time buzz. This is a place that is at its liveliest in the evenings, and on Sundays when it’s full of Poles out to enjoy a good family meal with tastes of home.

The menu is an Eastern European culinary tapestry. There are dishes aplenty from Poland, but Russia and Hungary are also represented. There is even a nod to Siberia. There is comfort writ large on every page but this is classy comfort rather than nursery food.

You need know nothing of Eastern European food to find a satisfying meal here. The staff are more than happy to lead you through the dishes giving good advice about the origin and ingredients of each one. The advice of this reviewer would be to come with an appetite.

We were visiting a Polish restaurant so vodka seemed a good idea. There is an extensive vodka menu and that was no surprise but that list includes a good number of home-infused vodkas. No, the management don’t buy unmarked bottles from a bloke behind the Shepherds Bush Empire. The chef makes these himself with each one being lovingly babysat for two months till it reaches its age of maturity. We had pear vodka and it is to be recommended. It’s made with fresh fruit and captures the very essence of pear flavour. This vodka tastes more like a pear than does the real thing. It is served in a frozen thick glass to add even more Polishness to the proceedings, as if that were necessary.
Restaurant review Tatra

While we waited for our starters to arrive we were presented with a pot of spread and bread. The aforementioned paste was made from lard. OK, I have probably just lost half my readers but I will tell those of you remaining that this is a taste from the past. Hands up who remembers bread and dripping? If you do then you will find this to be equally delicious. For those poor unfortunates who have never known that joy then I can tell you that this Polish counterpart is a light and almost creamy spread with subtle hints of onion and apple. I loved it all those years ago and I grew up to be a restaurant reviewer, so let’s not have any prejudices here.

So we ordered our starters. I knew dumplings were big in Eastern Europe. That is to say they are very popular and I assumed they would be big. My Siberian version, Pelmeni, were something of a surprise. One would expect Siberians to be tucking into football-sized creations after a day mowing the tundra but these were small and delicate like hexagonal ravioli. The filling was pork and veal, and the sauce was of garlic butter and spring onions which was plate-lickingly delicious. My guest had Russian dumplings which were of a light and flaky pastry with a flavour of braised onion and bacon. These looked very attractive and were proclaimed to be moreish.

I ordered Leczo which is a rich goulash with dumplings. These particular dumplings were different from the starters. They were not filled but were the lightest and most melting of any dinner dumpling you could imagine and a bit like a potato gnocci in texture. They were a foil for the vibrant stew of tender meat and peppers. The perfect meal for a cold British winter.
Restaurant review Tatra

My guest ordered Golonka, pork shank with braised cabbage and potatoes. This is a striking dish of mahogany hue and fit for any hearty eater, or two modest ones. The meat had been slowly cooked and could be eased from the bone with the merest breeze from an opening restaurant door. The cabbage, although braised, was in no way slimy (a culinary term oft used to describe British cooked leafy vegetables). It had bite and was a good companion to the ample quantity of meat.

It’s difficult to focus on dessert when one has so over-indulged in previous courses but we were tempted by the knowledgeable and charming waitress into trying a slice or two of Polish Christmas cake. This was nothing like a British Christmas cake of brick-like consistency with perhaps a marzipan reindeer as garnish. This was a roll of light pastry filled with a sweet poppy-seed paste. It was delightful and was helped down by a good cup of tea. It’s not a usual menu item but well worth trying at this time of year. I would recommend the crèpe filled with raisins, almonds, rum and cream cheese for the other months.


You should visit Tatra now before it becomes famous, moves to
Mayfair, triples the prices and takes Restaurant review Tatrabookings for weeks in advance. The husband and wife team of chef Robert Kusy and Sylwia Judycka (who seems talented at everything else) are passionate about their restaurant and it shows. It shows in the thoughtful menu. It shows in the attention to detail. It shows in their choice of staff, and above all it shows in the quality of food. They are not managers. Tatra is Robert and Sylwia's dream. It’s their business and it is bound to do well. This is one of my top three restaurants reviewed in 2009.

Restaurant review:
Tatra Restaurant
24 Goldhawk Road, Shepherds Bush, London W12 8DH,
Monday - Friday
Lunch 12am - 4pm, Dinner 6pm-11pm,
Saturday 12am - 11pm, Sunday 12am - 10pm
Visit Tatra here.

mostly food journal

Front Room at Flemings Mayfair

Opened in 1851, Flemings Hotel in Mayfair is one of London’s oldest hotels. It was converted from six Georgian townhouses but now this historic building has been restored to a tasteful and luxurious haven.

Flemings is a chic discreet townhouse hotel set in the heart of one of London’s most exclusive areas, Mayfair. The hotel and apartments are tucked away in a quiet, romantic street off Piccadilly, two minutes from Green Park and a short walk from the hustle and bustle of the West End. Flemings is just a few minutes’ walk from the designer stores of Bond Street, Regent Street and Jermyn Street, and close to Buckingham Palace. London’s theatre district is within easy reach. Guests have considered Flemings to be
restaurant review Flemingone of Mayfair’s ‘best kept secrets’- till now!

Following a multimillion-pound refurbishment masterminded by interior designer Grant White, the truly amazing interior of the hotel now offers a unique combination of both contemporary comfort and cosy Georgian charm. It has all the amenities you would expect from a prestigious hotel, with the addition of The Front Room for a special afternoon tea.

The Front Room at Flemings is London’s new elegant and striking
destination for all those in need of a restful but stylish retreat from the rigors of shopping and for those in search of afternoon tea, cupcakes, Champagne and canapés.

The Front Room is like no other front room you would have encountered. It’s a long way from your Auntie
Winnie’s parlour with magnolia walls and a set of plaster ducks. No Green Lady hanging over the gas fire. Think elegant, contemporary and intimate.

The refurbishment of the old library has been inspired. The designer set out to create “an elegant luxurious cocoon" and it has worked in fine style. The shelves of leather-bound books are still a feature but the walls are now black and silver, and mirrors magnify the impact. The furniture is opulent velvet – the sort that encourages one to linger – and arranged to suit couples as well as small groups. The view is exquisite, onto a terrace of Georgian townhouses. One is transported to scenes from Dickens or at least the Quality Street
tin. Magical.

The Front Room offers its guests layer cakes Restaurant review the flemingand cupcakes from the Primrose Bakery. Jude Law has nailed his colours to the mast and states “I defy anyone to find a better cupcake”! These are almost (but not quite) too good to eat. They are visions of pastel icing with delicate decorations of tiny pink sugar rosebuds, chocolate beans and colourful sprinkles atop thick buttercream. These cupcakes are said to be the best around and it’s hard to argue with that.

The tea here is exceptional, different from your typical limited selection available elsewhere as it is supplied by Dammann Frères. The story begins in 1692 when King Louis 14th of France ordered that only particular teas sold by a nobleman named Damame could be sold in French cafés. In 1925 Robert and Pierre Dammann created the company that was to become the celebrated Dammann Frères.

In 1932 Dammann Frères became the official supplier to Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, the French equivalent of P&O for luxury cruising. They continue to select teas from all over the world to create new and vibrant blends. They now have 3200! Try Passion de Fleurs. Have this with your cupcake but drink it sans milk.

Prices: Traditional Afternoon Tea £23
Chocolate Afternoon Tea £26
Savoury Martini Afternoon Tea £29.50 (including Gin or Vodka Martini)

Champagne & cupcakes (opening price for January only):
 £13.50 for a glass of Perrier Jouët brut champagne and a large cupcake. Small cupcakes are available but I’d treat myself to the deliciously indulgent big one.

Tea/coffee & cupcakes (opening price for January only):
£8.00 (pot tea/coffee and large cupcake)
£7.00 (pot of tea/coffee and small cupcake)
£6.00 (pot of tea/coffee and slice of cake)

Dress Code:  smart casual
Opening times: 8am - 8pm and open to non-hotel residents

8am - 12noon (teas/coffees and pastries),
12noon - 6pm (Champagne and cupcakes),
6pm - 8pm (Champagne and canapés)

Bookings for Front Room are essential: Tel: + 44 (0) 207 499 2964 - ask for the restaurant.

Address: Half Moon Street, London, W1J 7BH

Telephone: + 44 (0) 207 499 2964
Reservations: + 44 (0) 207 493 2088
Fax: + 44 (0) 207 491 1817
Email: reservations@flemings.co.uk
Web: www.flemings.co.uk
mostly food journal

La Porte des Indes

Some restaurants are good, there are a few that are noteworthy, there are others that have memorable food and more that have striking decor, but it’s rare to find a restaurant that can boast a brace of exceptional attributes. La Porte des Indes is that almost unique establishment, having both gorgeous food and stunning surroundings. After just one year of business the restaurant was nominated for ‘Best Indian Restaurant’ by Carlton London Restaurant Awards and was awarded ‘Best Indian’ and ‘Best UK’ Restaurant by the Good Curry Guide.

But why “La Porte des Indes”? Yes, you are quite right, dear reader, it is French. You might know of The Gateway to India which is a monumental arch in Mumbai, and La Porte des Indes is French for very much the same thing. The restaurant presents dishes from many  regions of India and draws on the culinary heritage of French India in particular.

The Union Territory of Pondicherry includes four enclaves located in three states of South India. It is also known as The French Riviera of the East (La Côte d'Azur de l'Est) and was considered as part of France from 1814 till 1954, the date at which it joined the rest of the, by now, independent India. The French connection is still evident in accent, food and architecture.

I was expecting something a bit special. I had done my homework and was struck by the fact that nobody
restaurant review la porte des indes that I had talked to had anything other than high praise for this establishment. La Porte des Indes remains as an example, in my opinion, of how to get it right. It’s not the cheapest food around but it’s delicious, well presented and the ambiance is truly remarkable.

Just a few minutes from Marble Arch station, La Porte des Indes occupies a corner plot at a quiet intersection. It’s something of a Tardis of a building having around 350 covers. Although looking smart and like a French Cafe from the outside, the inside opens to the most amazing scene. It’s a two storey former Edwardian ballroom. The ground floor balcony restaurant opens onto a lower level with a 40-foot waterfall and a sweeping marble staircase for good measure. Palms add to the exotic décor which is strikingly Indian-colonial but it is tasteful rather than kitsch. One’s eye is caught by a painting here, a wood carving there, a Mogul mural or two, and a glass-domed roof. Panelled walls and ornamental coving remind us of days when the British building industry offered an alternative to mediocrity and stippled, artexed ceilings.

The Jungle Bar on the lower floor is well worth a visit. It has a tradition of peanut shell-throwing started by some of its celeb patrons. It has a relaxed and convivial atmosphere with a hunting theme incorporating tiger-skin rugs and animal paintings recalling the days when one would travel the Empire to shoot anything with fur or feathers. There is a good selection of exotic cocktails here to start your evening. Rain Forest is a non-alcoholic thirst-quencher of freshly squeezed apple juice, orange juice and root ginger. Refreshing with a definite touch of the Orient.
 
La Porte des Indes has a menu that is out of the ordinary. Yes, there is Chicken Tikka Masala and Vegetable Biryani but take advantage of your visit and try some less familiar fare. There are dishes here that you won’t find anywhere else. Head Chef Mehernosh Mody and a battery of other chefs execute regional specialities with flair. The presentation of the food is nothing short of magnificent.

Large King Scallops in a Saffron Sauce are delicate and succulent. My guest and I mopped the fragrant yellow juices with onion and garlic naan. Roasted Chilli Seekh Kebab offered flavourful heat which was tempered by Chard Pakoras and Paneer Kebabs. All were served with chutneys designed to enhance the aromatic qualities of each starter.

The Roast Black Cod at La Porte des Indes is as good as you’ll find anywhere. It’s marinated in fennel, chilli, mustard, honey, tamarind and vinegar (an indication of a touch of Portuguese influence perhaps). It’s wrapped in banana leaf before being flame-grilled giving an end result which is meltingly moist.

Duck isn’t often seen on Indian restaurant menus but here it is at La Porte des Indes, giving a nod to its French connection. Magret de Canard Pulivaar are well-flavoured perfect-pink duck breast fillets served with a tamarind sauce. It’s said to be unique to the Creole community of Pondicherry so this will likely be your only chance to try this dish outside India.

Lotus Root Jaipuri is crunchy and addictive and should be sold by the bagful in Harrods’ food hall. Rougail d’Aubergine is another house speciality. Smoked and crushed aubergine, chilli, ginger and fresh lime combine to make a side dish that doesn’t have searing heat but is nevertheless robust enough to work with the tamarind sauce coating the Barbary duck.

Perhaps my favourite dish of the evening was Poulet Rouge. It’s one of La Porte des Indes’ signature dishes and is moreish in the extreme. Chicken is marinated in spices, grilled, shredded and presented in a creamy and rich sauce. It isn’t a hot and fiery dish so it’s just right as an introduction to the milder but nonetheless authentic face of Indian cuisine.

Desserts at Indian restaurants so often disappoint. La Porte des Indes, however, offers a Pistachio and Rose Kulfi which is to die for. It’s perfumed and exotic and perfectly matches this palace of a restaurant. They have a good selection of sorbets as well; Rose and Lychee, Indian Tamarind, Pomegranate and Imperial Passion Fruit, but they also do a surprisingly good chocolate mousse served in a folded-leaf cup. The mousse might hail from France but the presentation is pure subcontinent.

La Porte des Indes is like no other Asian restaurant you might visit. I am very much taken with its food and exotic atmosphere. I can think of nowhere better to spend a cold London night than basking in the colour and warm vibrancy of the long-gone raj. I’ll be back for another evening... or perhaps Sunday Brunch... or maybe a lunch.

Visit La Porte des Indes here.

Restaurant review:
La Porte des Indes
32 Bryanston Street, London W1H 7EG
TEL: +44 20 7224 0055

mostly food journal

Theo Randall at the InterContinental

This London hotel was opened in 1975, and reopened in 2006 after a £76m refurbishment. In the restaurant,restaurant review Theo Randall natural materials are used to great effect. Wood veneers with metallic finishes complement tan leather upholstery; there is an "English grass" motif in frosted glass as well as coloured-glass vases artfully displayed in a subtly-lit slot. All of which combine to create a contemporary but comfy nook for diners. The overall impression is of understated class.

Although the ground floor restaurant boasts one hundred and twenty four covers (plus a twenty-seat bar area) it contrives both to cater for large parties and to provide quiet and intimate space for couples. But you probably won’t (although you might) be there for a romantic rendezvous. It’s the food that is the draw.

In his early twenties, following an apprenticeship with Max Magarian of Chez Max, Theo Randall found a position at The River Café, although in 1991 he left to spend a year working with the much celebrated Alice Walters in the USA. Theo returned to The River Café where Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers made him head chef and a partner in the business. In November 2006 Theo opened his first restaurant, Theo Randall, at The InterContinental Park Lane. September 2008 saw the restaurant receive its first gong - 'Italian Restaurant of the Year' at the London Restaurant Awards.

Theo’s menu presents the finest of real Italian food. His food is memorable without being intimidating. His dishes don’t pose but rather beckon to you. These are platefuls that encourage you to dive in and enjoy the seasonal ingredients and evident passion of the chef and his talented staff.

I could have eaten every dish from this impressive bill of fare but there is only so much one can consume at a sitting. I chose to skip, reluctantly, the antipasti (pan-fried squid with cannellini beans, chilli, anchovy, parsley and rocket is pencilled in for my next visit) and chose a pasta dish. This is probably the best you will find outside the boot of Italy. My Taglierini con Gamberetti e Carciofi (handmade pasta with brown shrimps, artichoke, chilli and butter) was a vision of harmony. The scale of the delicate pasta was perfectly matched by the small, sweet and delicious shrimps. A simple dish but correct in every regard.

My guest indulged his passion for anything cured and ordered Anguilla affumicata (smoked eel withrestaurant review Theo Randall restaurant beetroots, dandelion and fresh horseradish). He proclaimed the portion to be generous with lots of petal-like slices of fish matched with tangy and vibrant accompaniments.

Secondi saw me on the horns of an epicurean dilemma. Should I order the sea bass or the rack of lamb? So, I chose Coda di Rospo al forno (wood roasted Cornish monkfish with parsley, capers, Roseval potatoes, globe artichokes and prosciutto di Parma). The fish was succulent and the prosciutto added just the right salty counterpoint. The potatoes were meltingly delicious and the courgettes were a marvellously crunchy garnish.

Piccione al forno (I guess the same forno which had also accommodated my monkfish) was a pigeon cooked to pink perfection. These are such underrated birds. I think many people have visions of those nasty specimens one finds “decorating” London monuments. The sort with club feet, a nasty cough and low IQ. The culinary version of these tatty-feathered articles is chubby and juicy without the over-gamey flavour of many sport birds. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender.

Throughout the meal we tasted some excellent wines recommended by the personable and approachable sommelier. She was more than happy to recommend wines by the glass that perfectly complemented our food choices. The wine list was extensive with bottles starting at £20 or so. Not out of the way for such a restaurant.

We couldn’t resist the Piatto di dolci which was a selection of four desserts. I’d even invite people I don’t like for a meal here, just to have an excuse to indulge in this sweet array. The Amalfi Lemon tart was fresh and zesty, Vanilla Ice cream with chilled espresso was a simple presentation in a coffee cup but it was enough to impress with its dark bitter charm. The soft chocolate cake is one to fight over and the pannacotta with prunes and brandy was creamy, rich and decadent, as any good dessert should be.

This was a delightful evening spent in cosy surroundings enjoying amazing food. I cannot fault the restaurant or its attentive staff. The prices are what you would expect of such a hotel restaurant in one of the world’s most engaging capitals but I would venture to say that it’s value for money. The evening could not have been improved upon ...unless we had been able to find space for a slice of pear and almond tart or perhaps a sliver of Ricotta cheesecake. I feel another visit might be in order.

Visit the InterContinental web site at here.

mostly food journal

Stanza

London is celebrated as perhaps having the most vibrant and eclectic theatre district in the world. Yes,Stanza Exterior going for an evening of roaring grease paint and smelly crowd is still a treat but it’s never been more accessible. Tickets are easy to book and you won’t need to mortgage the kids to finance the trip... but how about turning the adventure into an unhurried and memorable event?

Why not consider a pre- or post-theatre meal at the Stanza. Overlooking Shaftesbury Avenue the 80 cover first floor restaurant offers a comfy perch for relaxing and people-watching. The décor is modern with dark wood and several pieces of urban art to give a bit of city buzz. This is a surprisingly good-value venue right where you need it to be. It’s a short walk from every theatre of note so you’ll not need to invest in a taxi ride to get to your show before the curtain rises... although an encounter with a London cab driver is often amusing and educational it’s frequently costly.

Tourists praise London for many things: its historic buildings, museums, charming policemen but food hardly ever reaches the list. Great food is all around but it’s a matter of finding it. Locals will have favourite eateries with good food at reasonable prices but you need to be in the know. You could walk right by Stanza’s anonymous entrance and that would be a shame.

Stanza has a menu that, although not the longest around, is a good representation of the changed face of modern British cuisine. Head chef Maggie John Lewis has imagination and style and offers a bill of fare that I would be happy to eat my way through (I’ll be returning for Maggie’s signature dish of Braised Pork Belly stuffed with apricots served with crushed potatoes and caramelised apple). She has graced the kitchens of
Stanza Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, Chamberlain's Restaurant, and Bistro 11 before becoming the jewel in the crown of Stanza.

Maggie makes a melt-in-the-mouth Daube of Beef that is presented as a terrine. Lamb Sweetbread Salad is another dish that shows flair, and Poached Salmon with Crayfish Sauce would be out of reach of most people’s pockets but here has a price tag of only £21.00. The menu relies on seasonal produce and fresh flavours. If you don’t have time for a meal before theatre-going then visit for a warm chocolate fudge brownie with walnuts and burnt ice‐cream. This is exceptional and my only suggestion would be that perhaps it would be a good idea to sell the ice cream in boxes by the litre.

Not only can Stanza provide a tempting meal but they also have a selection of cocktails enough to delight any mixology enthusiast. The bar is 9.5 metres long and is equipped with bar staff who can twirl, spin and ignite drinks with the best of ‘em. The Earl Grey Martini would be an ideal unwinder.

Visit Stanza on the internet at www.stanzalondon.com but visit in person at Stanza Restaurant and Late Night Bar 93 - 107 Shaftesbury Avenue, London. W1D 5DY
T: + 44 (0)20 7494 3020 F: + 44 (0)20 7494 3050

Restaurant opening times:
Monday - Closed
Tuesday - 5:30pm - 11pm
Wednesday - 12pm - 3pm / 5:30pm - 11pm
Thursday - 12pm - 3pm / 5:30pm - 11pm
Friday - 12pm - 3pm / 5:30pm - 11pm
Saturday - 5:30pm - 11pm
Sunday - Closed

mostly food journal

Big Ben, London Bus and Afternoon Tea at The Howard

Londoners love London. Tourists love London. It’s a city that is vibrant but with nooks of tranquillity, historic with a veneer of contemporary, a city for the young and young at heart. A magnet for families and couples. A dream destination for the discerning. And now London offers one more attraction to its raft of must-sees and must-dos: Afternoon Tea at The Howard.

Visitors want an authentic London experience. A
Restaurant review The Howard tea trip on the Underground (a good way to meet authentic Londoners). A ride in a black London cab (a good way to learn all about the state of the world in general and Oxford Street in particular and football results). A tour of famous sites (Big Ben is, in fact, the name of the bell inside the tower). Afternoon Tea.

Pretty much every nation has breakfast, lunch and dinner at traditional times but Britain has evolved a civilised pause from the day’s trials in the form of Afternoon Tea. This isn’t a variety of leaf akin to, say, Breakfast tea. No, dear reader, this is an event that is enjoying something of a well-deserved renaissance. This is a chance to unwind and to appreciate some pampering.

The Howard Hotel (part of the Swissôtel group) provides a classic teatime experience but with a special London twist. You’ll enjoy a selection of refreshing teas from the celebrated Twining's tea company, finger sandwiches (this refers to the shape of the sandwich rather than the filling), scones with clotted cream and jam, and a selection of cakes and macaroons presented on a three-tier cake stand.

But the Howard offers a unique chance to eat London. Chef Brian Spark has pulled out all the culinary and artistic stops to present an array of London’s most iconic landmarks in edible form. Try a nibble of the right-hand corner of Saint Paul’s. A bite or two of the Crown Jewels would be welcome around 4pm, and you could even share Tower Bridge with your companion. The Temple Underground sign, a red post box, London cab, double-deck bus and the London Eye are also immortalised in sweet confection. These little treats are a delight to behold and even more delightful to eat. The ingredients are high quality and the execution of each cake, chocolate or cookie is quite masterful. These events are called TLSee, a pun on TLC – Tender Loving Care. A change in name but not in notion, this is Tea, London, Sightseeing.
Restaurant review The howard

You’ll be looking for a quiet corner of charm and elegance to enjoy your refreshments. The Howard offers a lounge that boasts moulded plaster ceilings, a good amount of marble and comfy seats (you’ll want to linger). This isn’t a Victorian mausoleum but rather a contemporary take on the traditional city hotel.

Why not consider even just a day in London. Plan a walking tour of the city. Soak up the atmosphere of one of Europe’s finest destinations. Visit the famous buildings and then put your feet up in the comfort of The Howard (right next to Temple Underground station) for a memorable Afternoon Tea. Monday to Friday - 1:00pm to 5:30pm
Saturday - 2:30pm to 7:00pm
Sunday - 2:30pm to 5:30pm
For reservations call +44 20 7300 1700 or visit www.tlsee.co.uk


Restaurant review: Swissôtel The Howard
Temple Place
London
WC2R 2PR
www.swissotel.com/london
mostly food journal

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila BarMestizo bar

You might say you like “Mexican” food. You might have had “Mexican” food on trips to the US and Taco Bell might be your favourite fast food but, dear reader, your experience is probably a faint shadow of the real extravaganza awaiting you at Mestizo.

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar has a convenient location just around the corner from Euston Square Underground station. Its atmosphere is of dark wood charm but the impressive bar hints at fun times to be had. This establishment has a collection of Tequilas (over 130 at last count) enough to make any London-based Mexican quite home-sick. The restaurant has quite a cult following amongst the expat Mexicans. That has got to be an indication of this restaurant’s authenticity. It already has the vote of those in the know.

Mestizo offers food that is hard or impossible to find outside Mexico. I wonder why these dishes haven’t had the exposure of other ethnic cuisines. It can only be that Europe has only a slight cultural exchange with those countries that rest south of Texas and California. Mexican food has migrated to its neighbour to the North but has often been adulterated during transit. Tex-Mex food might be vibrant and zesty but it isn’t a patch on food to be found south of the border.

This week (8th-13th September) Mestizo hosts a Gastronomic Week. This offers visitors a chance to sample authentic regional dishes. You’ll be plied with tempting foods from ten states, each with its own culinary characteristics and specialities. There is a special menu available with a selectionRestaurant review Mestizo dancer of 20 starters and 20 main courses to choose from. There are dishes here that you would have heard mentioned in movies and now it’s your chance to try Tamales (a personal favourite and a must-try at this restaurant), Mole (another evocative dish) and Enchiladas (comforting and delicious with all the flavours that set Mexican food apart from other cuisines).

If you can’t get to Mestizo this week then consider celebrating Mexican Independence Day there on 15th September. You’ll need to book in advance for this popular soiree. This evening has a “reputation” so you’ll also be invited to Curate la Cruda on Wednesday 16th September. It’s a hangover-cure evening!

I’ll be presenting a full review of Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar very soon but I can tell you that I am already impressed by both the food and the ambiance. This is continental drift of the most exciting kind. This is where Mexico truly meets London. I look forward to my return.


Restaurant review: Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar
103 Hampstead Road
NW1 3EL
London
www.mestizomx.com
Phone 020 7387 4064
Email eat@mestizomx.com

mostly food journal

Planet Hollywood

‘OK, so review London’s Planet Hollywood.’ ‘Yes, but I’m a serious restaurant reviewer.’ ‘Go on, you might like it.’ ...That’s the conversation I had with myself and I am glad to say I was right. I did like it.

I am not normally a lover of fast food and I wasn’t sure that I’d be the best reviewer for the job, but Planet Hollywood is at the top end of casual dining. It’s kid friendly with a menu that is impressive and offers something for every member of the family.

The location on Haymarket is ideal. It’s just a few yards from its original home of 15 years in The Trocadero. Planet Hollywood attracts an all-day clientele of families visiting London’s historic attractions but also those taking in a theatre performance. A meal before a show or a supper after, and night-clubbers are well catered for with a bar that stays open till the wee small hours.

The decor is subtle and even the movie memorabilia is more tastefully displayed than in other “themed” restaurants. There are comfortable banquettes and contemporary cafeteria-style tables and chairs for couples and small groups. There is an open kitchen and a surprising number of waiting staff. Our server, Katarina, was appropriately attentive without being intrusive. The restaurant was quite full at the time of our visit but there seemed no delay between courses for us or our fellow diners.

Planet Hollywood is designed to be a fun venue. That is a description that fills those of us of a certain age and with no kids with an emotion akin to terror. This restaurant has struck a balance to provide an eatery that is attractive and amusing for all ages. There are video screens and a live DJ but the music reflected the makeup of the visitors. Hip Hop was punctuated with Motown and even an Abba track or two. The decibels were kept to a reasonable level creating a party atmosphere, while still allowing for conversation.
Restaurant review Planet Hollywood

So it’s a nice spot with a few good tunes, but we were there to eat and we were spoilt for choice. I’d
probably describe this as American International: a good selection of pasta dishes, pizza, salads, Chinese and American South-Western. The portions for every dish were substantial and the presentation imaginative.

I was tempted by the Buffalo Wings (these are chicken wings rather than those from a buffalo. The name is taken from the town of Buffalo in New York State), but ordered the Texas Tostados which were crispy, flavourful and light with a garnish of sour cream and pico de gallo. My guest enjoyed his World Famous Chicken Crunch – tender and moist chicken strips served with a Creole Mustard dip.

The menu was so broad-based that it was difficult to choose just one dish for the main course. Katarina told us that the
burgers and fajitas were among the most popular dishes so I ordered the Chicken Fajitas. This is a hearty dish ofRestaurant review Planet Hollywood moist grilled chicken on a bed of onions and peppers, fresh guacamole, pico de gallo, sour cream, cheddar and jack cheeses, flour tortillas and Mexican rice. There were also Shrimp, Beef and Vegetable Fajitas.

My guest chose the Lamb Burger which he found to be perfectly cooked and juicy. This is a substantial burger and full of flavour. A long way from the Macwendyking patties of highstreet chains. It was garnished with lettuce, mint relish and red onion and had a dish of fries on the side. The table condiments were ketchup and French’s Yellow Mustard – culinary Americana. The list of burgers boasts a veggie burger as well as a salmon burger. There are also a good number of chicken sandwiches.

There is a Kids menu (age 12 years and under) which has a short list of perennial favourites: burgers and fries, toasted sandwiches, Chef’s Salad, Chicken Crunch and pasta with meatballs or tomato sauce, and ice cream or sundae for dessert.

Talking of dessert, Planet Hollywood offers a huge Banana Split Super Sundae. An ice cream confection in a mammoth martini glass served with a cherry on the top. Take some friends with you or you’ll be inviting strangers to help you finish this one. Cheesecake of various sorts is well represented on the dessert menu. Also try the Carrot Cake, Brownies, White Chocolate Bread Pudding or Key Lime Pie.

Planet Hollywood has much to appeal to families and revellers. The prices are what one would expect in general, but with some value options such as Soup and baguette for only £4.95 and an Appetiser platter for four people for under £15.00. I would visit again.

mostly food journal

Seasoning Restaurant

My advice would be to book your table now! Seasoning will very soon be busting at the seams withSeasoning Restaurant discerning customers who are looking for fine food, and décor to match.

Seasoning does not scream stereotypical Indian restaurant. It projects cool class, or uncluttered chic with a hint of stylish subcontinent. There is a quite magnificent wine cabinet which also helps to elevate the restaurant above from the common. The guest book boasts notables from the arts and media who have already found this haven.

White walls and pillars are punctuated with original paintings, and these canvasses will be for sale. Yes, the theme is unmistakably Indian but a world away from watercolours of the Taj Mahal at sunset. Think contemporary and wall-worthy. Striking.

A wide flight of stairs takes one to The Spice Room. This is a function room with a capacity of another hundred or so guests. There is a nook housing the disco equipment and a small private area called the White Lounge for more intimate meetings. This lower level has a kitchen used to prepare food for the popular catering element of the business. They have ten years experience of catering at some rather swanky venues such as Banqueting House, Sheraton Park Lane and many others of equal standing. They also travel to Morocco, Portugal and Dubai to cater.

Returning to the main restaurant, the owners, Salil Bhatia and Nitin Munglani, have made an inspired choice of seating: chairs in clear Perspex with an almost classic design having high, rounded backs which my guest pronounced as extremely comfortable. This furniture helps to maintain an open and light atmosphere on a restaurant floor with 100 or so covers.

You’ll not go to a restaurant for a nice sit down and a gaze at some pictures. One could feel tempted to linger at the bar area which is modern and a departure from the dark wood panels of yesteryear. It’s likely you’ll be there for the food, and the quality of the surroundings encourages the visitor to expect something rather good.

We enjoyed our welcoming popadoms which were not the typical, uniform, frisby-like specimens but were light and had a hand-made quality. Then it was on to the starters: the menu takes a step away from the banal offerings of most high streets. It boasts a good many items that might not be found in your local restaurant, and speak more of food in India rather than that contrived just for the European market.

Each of the starters were attractively garnished and cooked to perfection. The Sheekh Kebab had a melting texture, a suspicion of ginger and a stuffing of paneer. We also enjoyed the Tandoori Paneer marinated in warming spices. Tandoori Prawns were moist and flavourful. Chicken Tikka was a good illustration of why it is Britain’s favourite dish. And Aloo Tikki goes to the top of my best loved starters. Don’t even consider ordering this to share. You’ll be starting the evening with a fight and that’s never a good thing. This is
Seasoning Lamb Chop comfort on a plate but it’s seldom seen on restaurant menus.

The main dishes were as tastefully presented as the starters. No dented metal platters here but rather Scandinavian-looking oval boats. Paneer with Spinach was delicate and accompanied Murg Makhani, Rogan Josh which had evidence of real whole spice, lamb chops that one could cut with a spoon and Daal Makhani which my guest and I both agreed was the best we have tasted in a very long time.

The service was polite, efficient and unobtrusive. The other guests were European and Asian and several seemed to be regulars. Word is getting around that the new restaurant (it has been open only since April) is a good bet.

The chef is proud of his butchery skills (buying carcasses and cutting these himself) and also his use of spices – no artificial colourings or commercial spice blends. The dishes have far less oil than one has come to expect from restaurant-style Indian food. This is far nearer the quality that one would experience when eating at the homes of health-conscious Indian friends. This food doesn’t rely on fat to give richness.

Seasoning is a shining gem of a restaurant. The owners have lavished as much care on the décor and music (jazz that perfectly matched the surroundings) as they have on the menu. There will be a few changes to the menu in October although I can’t fault this existing one.

The restaurant is just a few minutes walk from West Kensington and West Brompton Underground stations and that short walk is worthwhile. My guest and I will both be regulars at this establishment. It has raised the bar for neighbourhood Indian restaurants.

Restaurant review:
Seasoning Restaurant
84D – 86 Lillie Road, Fulham, London SW6 1TL
Tel: 020 7386 0303
Fax: 020 7386 5888
Email: info@seasoning-restaurant.co.uk
mostly food journal

Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria

We chose a Tuesday evening to visit this little corner of Clapham, and it had all the makings of anDonna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria uninspiring event. The weather was cold and dull (this is England in spring so what do you expect) and the restaurants we passed along the way were mostly devoid of clients. Those eateries that had signs of life were peopled by a couple of paying customers (placed prominently by windows or doors) or sadder still, by bored waiting staff who seemed set for a long and fruitless night. What would our destination hold in store?

Donna Margherita was buzzing! It was evident that this restaurant had been discovered by the regular Jacks and Jills of Lavender Hill and they are making good use of it. There seemed to be regulars who were warmly greeted by Enrico, the co-owner, as well as a table of some dozen or so 30-somethings. This was looking good! A restaurant with few empty tables in the chill of a financial crisis speaks for itself and the covered outside area (including a heater, thank goodness) suggests that this spot is expected to be popular all summer.

This isn’t a huge impersonal restaurant but one rather suggesting a rustic sitting-room, but without the manufactured rusticity of so many Italian establishments. This was a cosy, brick walled haven from the traffic of Clapham and Battersea. The sideboard heaving with antipasti and the unpretentious wood tables add to the appeal.

The menu was a surprise. It’s extensive and very well priced. There is an additional weekly Specials menu which offers tempting and reasonable food, and a wine list that seemed rather good value with wine by the glass on several of those listed. Pricey wine is so often the pitfall of eating out, but not so here.

We ordered a selection of the aforementioned antipasti, along with some bread baked in the wood-fired oven, fruity olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and marinated olives. The servings are large here and attractively presented. There were the traditional favourites but my guest particularly enjoyed the baked aubergine with mozzarella, and the deep fried courgette was a triumph. (I now have the recipe but you will have to visit the restaurant if you want to discover the simple secret of these crisp and flavourful vegetables.)

Pizza promises so much but so often delivers so little, but it’s a speciality here and I’ll go as far as to say it’s the best I have had in ages. We chose the simple Margherita which was light and delicate with a thin crust. The underside had the distinctive brown spots of a perfect bake and the topping of tomato and cheese was ample but didn’t reduce the base to a soggy mess. There are 18 or so other pizzas to choose from including classic pizzas like Quattro Formaggi (Four Cheese), Romana (anchovies, olives, capers) and Marinara (tomato, olive oil, oregano and garlic).

The restaurant menu is broad-based, offering pasta, risotto, meat and fish. We were tempted by the mixed shellfish and octopus in a delicious and rich broth. Octopus is often tough and unappetising but the chef of Donna Margherita knows what he is doing. It was tender and married well with the king prawns, clams and mussels. O’pignatiello, the romantic-sounding name for this dish, was served with small rounds of baked pizza dough although we resorted to dipping bread into the bowl to soak up the juices that we were loath to leave. This should be the restaurant “signature dish” and is amazingly good value for money at around £13.00 per head.

You might not make it to dessert (the portions are generous) but there are treats in store. Try Zuccotto al Cioccolato Bianco (£4.00): homemade sponge cake filled with chocolate ice cream topped with white chocolate. There is a dark chocolate version filled with vanilla ice cream which is equally as good. Affogato al Caffe (£4.00) is vanilla ice cream with espresso coffee. This is a simple dessert but it always seems sophisticated.

Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria offers the real wood-fire oven experience. It doesn’t have to try to be authentic, it just is authentic. The cognoscenti (those in the know) already make this a popular eatery and I doubt that they will thank me for publicising their secret slice of Naples. I’ll return but I might make a reservation next time. Donna Margherita is no longer a secret!


Restaurant review:
Donna Margherita Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria
183 Lavender Hill
London SW11 5TE
020 7228 2660
mostly food journal

Chutney – The hidden gem of Euston

Chutneys Indian Vegetarian restaurant first opened its doors in 1987. A little more modest capacity thanDrummond Street now with only 40 covers at that time. 1994 saw an increase to 80 and 2009 sees Chutneys with 120 seats. If they continue in this fashion they will be renaming Drummond Street “Chutney Alley”. There are 2 floors with the basement and party room that can accommodate 60 guests.

The atmosphere is cosy with walls of green and ochre. The waiters are attentive but unobtrusive. Used plates are removed in a timely fashion although you never feel that you are being rushed. Many of the customers are evidently regulars and some are sufficiently enamoured by Chutneys that they use it as a meeting place.

The chef here has a talent for presentation. A strategically placed bloom here, an artfully arranged salad there helps to make a mouth-watering display for the lunch buffet. The dishes are both contemporary and traditional with several recipes being those of the chef’s grandmother. The food has the light feel of real Indian home cooking rather than the heavier, more calorific version that we have come to expect from many  main-stream restaurants.

Yes, this is a vegetarian restaurant but even card-carrying carnivores will find the dishes both delicious andChutney satisfying. You can choose from dry-fried vegetables, vegetables in gravy (a better term than curry, a word most Europeans use to describe Indian food in general), salads, rice, beans, breads, bhajis, dhals, popadoms and, yes, you guessed it, chutneys. The buffet sports about 30 dishes which change each day.

This is an Eat as Much as You Like buffet and the prospect of that often fills me with fear. It conjures visions of canteen lunch counters offering heavy, oily, catering pack meals. Chutneys, on the other hand, has a classy selection of very tempting savoury delights that will encourage you to just have another small portion. My advice would be to pace yourself. Munch a popadom or two and order a drink. This will put you in the sufficiently relaxed frame of mind to start grazing on the main course... or courses! Save a little space for a light dessert of, perhaps, halva or creamy rice with almonds, or some fresh fruit salad.

I have a passion for Indian food but I am so often disappointed by restaurants which have little regard for the health or financial welfare of their clients. Chutneys offers some of the best vegetarian food in central London and at a very reasonable price. The location couldn’t be more convenient for travellers who are just a couple of minutes walk from Euston or Warren Street stations. Chutneys has a loyal following which has just increased. I will return!

Chutneys Indian Vegetarian Restaurant is open 7 days a week.
Monday - Friday buffet hours are from 12 noon - 2.30pm
Saturday buffet 12 Noon - 5pm
Sunday   buffet 12 - 10.30pm


Restaurant review: Chutneys
124 Drummond Street
Euston
London NW1 2PA
phone: 020 7388 0604
mostly food journal

Le Lys du Liban – Aix en Provence

This small restaurant (only 36 covers) is tucked away up a side street and is (if you are lucky) easily missed. I couldn’t say it’s like a corner of old Beirut, but Le Lys du Liban has a rustic charm and some of the biggest wooden ceiling beams I have ever seen – and they looked authentic, which is more than I can say for the food! (I am not going to give you the address as you won’t be going there.)Aix en Provence

Things didn’t start well! We walked into the restaurant to find it empty with an overall impression of shabby. Just as we realised our error the “chef” appeared from under the bar. No, dear reader, I don’t mean from behind the bar but he was hidden out of sight and stood up in a state of shock...probably at seeing a customer!

This man was no more Lebanese than I am. He was tall (6ft 6 inches) with a pale complexion and reddish hair. He was huge and, although smiling, managed to seem a bit on the rough side. The sort that probably has friends by the name of Bugsy, No Nose and Knuckles. Now, I don’t want to offend anyone that has been christened with any of those names, but I hope they appreciate that en masse they are daunting!

The prospect of escape being cut off, we found our table (the one nearest the door) and resigned ourselves to the inevitable. BUT the menu looked quite good! Perhaps this was going to turn out to be the favourite lunch-time eatery for every office worker in the centre of town. Perhaps our early arrival had allowed us to sneak in and bag the best table and quick service in the most popular Lebanese restaurant north of Africa. Wrong. (You knew I was going to say that.)

We ordered mezze for 2 which supplied us with 12 different dishes. If you have been reading my reviews of books by Anissa Helou and others you will know all about mezze. To those who are new to the site I ask “What kept you?” and explain that mezze are rather like a Middle Eastern tapas, small dishes of various kinds of delicious (or should be) savouries.

A small pitcher of French rose cost 5€. Although there were a host of Lebanese wines on the list, it was only the French that came in either ½ bottles or 25cl pitchers. That was a shame as I would have liked to try some Lebanese wine. To drink a whole bottle alone (my companion had the car) would have been a bit too much even for my practised constitution! It was fortunate that only half their customers (me, that is) needed a wine glass, because the other glass still had traces of lipstick!

The basket of shop-bought pita arrived cold and in a plastic bag. (Note to waitress: Must try harder.)

OK, so it took a while for the food to arrive but there were 12 dishes to be made from scratch (yeah, right), and the mezze looked lovely. The waitress couldn’t tell us the ingredients in the dishes (she could have nipped out and read what it said on the plastic boxes) nor did she know the Lebanese names for the mezze.

Tabbooleh (herb and cracked wheat salad) was authentic in that it had mostly parsley, a hint of mint and a little cracked wheat but it had far too much salt.

Kibbeh (stuffed meat patties, usually my favourite). The shape was typical, like pointy meatballs but that was as near as they got to the succulent individuals that I am accustomed to.

 Kafta (meat balls). The kafta were not hot but warmer than room temperature (the microwave was evidently on the blink) and were tasteless. The tomato sauce was from a tin and was very distinctly Italian spaghetti sauce.

Hummus (chickpea dip) was fine but I am sure it came in a catering pack.

Stuffed vine leaves with cracked wheat, mint and peppers was probably the most flavourful of the dishes.

Stuffed vine leaves with meat were tasteless.

Cheese-filled pastries were over-cooked to the extent that the pastry tasted bitter.

Chickpea and bean salad had a delicate flavour of cumin which was so delicate that there was hardly any flavour at all.

Aubergine salad (Baba Ghannooge) was too salty.

Cucumber and yogurt dip was fine but that would be hard to mess up!

Falafel came from the same place the hummus did.

Stuffed courgette was tasteless.

Le Lys du Liban would probably be an OK restaurant on a hot summer evening with a long table full of friends. We, on the other hand, spent the entire meal alone – if you don’t include the daft waitress, the pasty-faced chef, and the men delivering the catering packs of ready-made food. Our focus was on the meal and it wasn’t great. It didn’t kill us and it didn’t cost a lot. Having said that I couldn’t say it was value for money.

mostly food journal

Tapas Bar Crawl

We have what Jeni Barnett would call a “nearasdammit” son who is Catalan (note: I do not say Spanish). This has given us the advantage of having the address of our boy’s (well into his 30s now) favourite tapas bar in Barcelona.
Bar food
The Cerveceria Catalana is a bit off the beaten track (Carrer Mallorca) but still walkable from Las Ramblas. It looks grand and it is indeed just that. The waiter will escort you through the bar to the back and around a corner to a dark-wood and bottle-lined area that just reeks “class”. I had expected all tapas bars to be a bit rustic, but this is far from that.

It’s one of the most popular tapas bars with the locals, and it seems like a few tourists have found it as well. A bit of advice here....eat early or late to avoid the crush. Whilst the waiting staff do their best it’s obvious that lunchtime demands a few extra hands. I don’t blame waiters for not speaking English, why should they? But you would expect a reasonable fluency in Spanish!

The tapas here are some of the best you will find, with the long list of the usual suspects but also lots of specials of the day. We nibbled on anchovies, deep fried whitebait and a delicious little dish of pig’s feet. We ordered that one because we didn’t know what it was and, ok, I admit it doesn’t sound fantastic but the flavour was aromatic and the texture was silky and succulent. A couple of dishes come to about 10€ per person including a beer, which is reasonable for the quality both of food and authentic atmosphere.

Evening is the traditional tapas time and we tried the contemporary version at Celler de Tapas (Placa Universitat). Now this isn’t a cheap option, but full of innovation and thoughtful combinations. The black interior and white dishes gives this restaurant a Zen feel. Quite agreeable but not the traditional tapas bar. There are interesting savoury tapas with choices such as duck croquettes with plum sauce, and chicken skewers. My dessert (it's the first time I have had one of those with tapas) was amazing: Three Textures of Chocolate with Oil and Salt. It sounded so awful that I had to try it! It works! The light olive oil was almost creamy under a sponge with melting chocolate, topped with chocolate ice cream and a sprinkle of Malvern salt. The bill for four of us was 88€ with no alcohol.

All tourists will want to spend some time walking along Las Ramblas. Whilst it’s true that the local “colour” is there, you should be warned that it’s not the best place to find good tapas, or indeed good food of any description.

It’s logical that bars and restaurants that don’t need to try hard to find customers will do the minimum to stay full of paying tourists. It’s the same in London, Paris and Rome, a fact of culinary life. You could say that we all, us tourists that is, contribute to the problem by choosing the picturesque little bar, cafe or restaurant with the best view of whatever attraction that particular city has to offer. Well, the view might be nice but we, dear reader, are here for the food!

Just one block from Las Ramblas and you find La Viena Blanca (Carrer Pintor Fortuny) with only a few tables, a high counter and a comforting list of tapas that, after a few days of careful study, we were able to understand.  This little bar sticks to the traditional, such as Patatas Bravas (potatoes with a spicy mayonnaise), Bombs of mashed potato filled with minced meat, and chicken croquettes. You will still expect to pay 10€ for a couple of tapas and a small beer, but enjoy it. This is the nearest to good value that you will find this close to Las Ramblas.
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If you don’t know Ben’s then you ain’t from Noooo York!

You can find plenty of glitzy restaurants. There are a host of celebrity chef establishments. The eateries to be "seen at" are without number but you have to go a long way to find anywhere that has the style of Ben’s Kosher Deli.

Ben's® Kosher Restaurant, Delicatessen & Caterers has been serving the public for over 36 years. There are quite a few outlets in New York State and now those “Snow Birds” (older folks who have flown to warmer climes) can get a real taste of home in Boca Raton, Florida.

Ben’s Manhattan branch is nothing much to look at from the outside. The deli counter is located at the front of the shop and supplies an unending list of sandwiches, salads and all the usual suspects of a New York Deli. Plan to have lunch in the restaurant and make your way past the counter to the unexpectedly rich and luxurious dining room. It's worth the extra few yards.

It’s like another world. Think of the best art deco and you have hit it on the head! It’s sumptuous in tones of gold, yellow and dark wood, and a shock after the chrome and glass of the front of house. It’s not a small place. It seats 250 but its décor allows you to feel cosy and cocooned.Deli

We were shown to a comfy, well upholstered booth and were presented with a dish of dill pickles and a basket of different and interesting breads. I was pleased not to have to decide, because I find it difficult to make a quick choice when a waitress offers “Whole wheat, rye, Russian black, German pumpernickel, Swedish crisp, Lebanese flat, potato bread, sesame, poppy seed, onion, white enriched, milk loaf, baguette, raisin, walnut, herb or olive?” “Er, what was that third one again?” A very American concept of offering too many options, mercifully absent at Ben's.

I love Eastern European food of all kinds but the food here was a bit different. There were things that I had heard of - mostly from watching old American films where there is always a rude waitress and a fat chef called "Al" wearing a vest (or undershirt if you are American) - but there were quite a few mysteries on the menu.

Well, you can’t try everything, but wanting to try the kosher classics I ordered Gefilte Fish with Horseradish. They are meatballs but made with fish and they were delicious and a lot of them as well. It sounds just the sort of dish someone’s Bubbe (grandmother) would have made. Traditionally they would be made of carp which isn’t used much in western European cooking and it’s a shame because it’s a wonderful fish if prepared properly. The flesh needs soaking to get rid of what is sometimes a muddy taste.

There were also Kreplach on offer, which are Jewish ravioli, Ronnie’s Old-Fashioned Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls (a meal in itself) and Stuffed Derma (big dumplings) with brown gravy, as well as a long list of hot meals, salads and soups. You can find an Israeli Hero: don’t go all political, it’s only a sandwich, OK, a foot-long roll, overstuffed with everything but the kitchen sink and advertised as: "Feeds two big fressers or three average mensch" ...I am sure that must be a good thing!

One of my favourite pastimes when in the Big Apple is to eat street food. There is less to be found these days but if you happen upon a cart selling Knish then try them. They are little square parcels of pastry filled with mashed potatoes and/or other savoury ingredients. If you are worried about eating on street corners because of dining etiquette or fear of being mugged for your lunch (don’t worry, it won't happen) then you can find knishes in the more inviting surroundings of Bens.

This is a fabulous restaurant. It’s not just the food although that is a big part of it. It’s the ambiance and it’s hard to find anything to compare. If you like Jewish food you’ll love Ben’s. If you like Eastern European food you’ll adore Ben’s, and if you want to feel like a native Noooo Yorker then you'll hang out at Ben’s.

Ben's® Kosher Restaurant 209 W. 38th St. (between 7th & 8th Avenues) Manhattan, NY 10018

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Simply Baltic......but much more!

This is a gem, (or should I say amber!) of a restaurant, specialising in food from almost all of Eastern Europe

One enters through a pair of striking wooden, metal- grilled doors to find the much celebrated Amber Bar. It was impressive, not for the amber, although there in quantity, but for its display of huge demijohns of vodka, enough to warm the heart of any connaisseur or enthusiastic hobbyist!

Baltic barWe lingered over our iced vodka, me with the delicious honey Krupnik and he with almond Wyborowa. Do try one of these incredible spirits, even if vodka isn’t your usual tipple. I must say that the Krupnick burst with a pure alcohol opening punch but mellowed to a sweet, deceptively soothing aftertaste whilst the Wyborowa was like a very adult marzipan. This could become a habit!

The bar opens into a truly stunning, vaulted main restaurant that has managed to reflect both minimalism and warmth. White walls, subtly lit niches and an immense amber chandelier that any self-respecting jeweller would give somebody’s right arm for! Light floods in from rooftop windows giving a bright and welcoming atmosphere for lunchtime or summer evening diners.

By the time we reached our seats we had become enchanted by the young, enthusiastic, professional staff. The service was attentive but unobtrusive, a rare find these days. Our guide was able to advise us on both food and wine with both charm and humour.

I chose for a starter, Leniwe – cheese and potato dumplings with bacon and mushroom. The short lengths of dumpling were light and exquisitely seasoned by the bacon and the portion wasn’t skimpy either! My companion ate Marinated Herring with potato, pea and apple salad. Attractively presented, this was both fresh-tasting and delicious.

Leczo-spiced beef stew for my main course arrived in its cast iron, lidded casserole with a side dish of mash. This was Eastern European cooking at its traditional best. It was aromatic and comforting. A winner on a cold winter afternoon.

Rabbit braised in cider was my friend’s choice. I can understand why rabbit has a bad rap. It’s often dry and stringy and like the worst chicken you ever had. Well this wasn’t. It was flavourful and succulent and a must for anyone who hasn’t had the chance to try its delicate taste and texture.

Desert was a lovely creamy Sour Cherry Crème Brulee, and a Pistachio Ice-cream with dark chocolate sauce. These were just two from the selection – there was also a tempting cheese board with oatcakes from Neal’s Yard but you would need to have the appetite of a Welsh rugby player to make it that far!

It’s simply Baltic – not “The” Baltic. But it’s more than that. It’s a restaurant boasting a menu of dishes from the Baltic States to the Adriatic. It’s good value for such a high-end eatery. Have a meal there and you’ll be glad you did!


Baltic Restaurant: 74 Blackfriars Road, London, SE1 8HA. Phone 020 7928 1111
www.balticrestaurant.co.uk

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Flunch for Lunch?

Let’s not be snobbish about this. If you travel in France you might need a quick meal that isn’t too pricey. It’s quite OK to use the supermarket cafeterias, you don’t have to tell your friends!

Most big shopping centres in France will have a cafeteria of some sort but the one to seek out for best value for money (and of particular interest to parents of adolescent boys with hollow legs) is Flunch, and this writer will tellFlunch you why. You see, it all has to do with the payment structure. Now this isn’t difficult so stick with me.

You enter a Flunch and collect a tray and cutlery. Next you have a salad buffet, an hors d’oeuvre cabinet, a cheese selection, a dessert buffet. There will be a couple of desserts marked as dessert of the day and that indicates that they form part of a set menu.

After you have made your selection of starters and pud then you might be interested in a drink. There will be a drinks dispensing station with soft drinks and beer, and another area for wine. The wine can often be found in small barrels with carafes just next to them. Mostly it’s rose or red but there will be half bottles of white and better-quality red just around that section. The red from the barrel has always been drinkable so unless you’re an expert stick with that.

OK, you’re set to make your way to the till. “But wait” I hear you cry, “I haven’t got me dinner”. Silly reader! All the hot food is on the other side of the till and that’s the reason that Flunch is such good value. You are looking for the main dish menu and that’s above the head of the cashier. There will be a selection of about 15 different items amongst which will be the Today’s Special. Each day has a good value dish as a special and that could be moules et frites or couscous. Main dishes range from 7€ to 9€.

Give your order to the nice lady (don’t forget to ask for a token for the coffee machine) and she will give you a slip of paper that you are going to present to the chef at one of the hot food counters. If you are picky about how hot you want your “hot” meal then you will find a table and enjoy your egg salad before collecting the freshly cooked and still hot fish.

Think about it.....The hot dishes and veg are in the body of the restaurant and that means you get to have as many side dishes as you like. Chips sufficient to sink a boat, carrots enough to cure any eye complaints, ratatouille in quantities to fill any Provencal heart with pride, Brussels sprouts to....no, perhaps not.

Now, I am a woman of a certain age (I am certain and you are wondering) and my tastes are modest but I do like those garlicky green beans and the mash and the pepper sauce. You can, if you want, just have the veg selection and for vegetarians in France, that’s a Godsend.

Don’t run away with the idea that just because it’s France the food here will be fantastic. Most of the time it’s just good ordinary food, but from time to time you are confronted with meals that are, at the best edible, and at the worst nasty. I have encountered a lasagne the like of which I hope never to see again and the husband had a piece of beef that was so very underdone (even by bloody French standards) that a good vet could have had the poor cow back on its feet within a week!

Flunch is a great place for a (probably) decent meal at a reasonable price...and, hey, the French think it’s OK!

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Kasturi Restaurant Fish Festival

Kasturi is a strong-scented oil found in rare musk deer. This prized substance has been used for the mostKasturi Restaurant Fish Festival expensive and luxurious of perfumes. The name evokes opulence and richness. Kasturi the restaurant specialises in Pakhtoon cuisine, which originated in the North-West Frontier Province of the Sub-continent. The essence of Pakhtoon cuisine is in the preparation of kababs and grilled foods with the minimum of added ghee or butter. But we were there to enjoy the Kasturi Fish Festival, which lasts till 10th October.

For six weeks or so, Mr Bashir Ahmed and his staff present a special menu comprised of fish dishes. Many Indian restaurants offer the occasional seafood dish, usually prawns in various guises, but the Kasturi menu has gone a step further and features only seafood. (The regular menu is also available.) These dishes include none of the usual piscatorial suspects such as Fish Curry (whatever that is) or Prawn Tikka Masala.

Kasturi is a light and bright restaurant without the dark and dingy trappings of the mediocre “curry houses” of yesteryear. Such restaurants are now much rarer as the British public has become more discerning and demanding. The layout of Kasturi allows for intimate soirées as well as for larger groups.

My guest and I ordered a bottle of house wine which was a chardonnay and most agreeable, and we munched our pappadoms while reflecting upon the Fish Festival menu. The Kasturi Seafood Platter (£8.95) gave us the chance to sample several of the fish starters: Crab Kabab, Fish Kabab and Salmon Tikka. The spices, although evident, did not overpower the seafood and I found the Salmon Tikka (Loch Fyne Scottish salmon marinated with spices and fresh herbs, char-grilled in a tandoor – a traditional clay oven) to be particularly good.

My main course was the Mixed Seafood Biryani (£11.95). This is the chef’s original innovation, using prawns, king prawns, octopus, mussels and white fish, served with a dish of chilled raitha on the side. This was flavourful with evidence of fresh spices. My guest chose Mahi Roll (£9.95), a sweet-water white fish from Lake Victoria, steamed, rolled and stuffed with mince, served in a creamy sauce of ginger, mustard and coconut milk. This is probably the most delicate of all the seafood dishes and quite unlike anything I have eaten in other Indian restaurants. All the fish dishes that we sampled were cooked to perfection, the fish being moist and tender.

Our side dishes included stuffed Indian round baby gourd in a mild curry. The vegetables were melt-in-the-mouth and the sauce was naan-dippingly delicious. This was my first taste of baby gourd and I can recommend it. Lemon Basmati Rice and a bread basket completed our array of dishes.

This award-winning restaurant seems to have a loyal following of both Europeans and Asians. Its convenient location just opposite Aldgate Underground station and a few yards from Aldgate East makes this a favourite with City workers and locals alike. The service was professional, polite and unobtrusive. The Fish Festival menu allows both Indian food aficionados and seafood lovers to experience something a bit different.

The Kasturi Restaurant Fish Festival runs from 1st September to 10th October 2009.


Restaurant review: Kasturi Restaurant and Catering Company
57 Aldgate High Street, London EC3N 1AL
Tel: 020 7480 7402 / 7481 0048
Fax: 020 7702 0256
Email: reservation@kasturi-restaurant.co.uk
www.kasturi-restaurant.co.uk

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Noodle Oodlerestaurant review Noodles

The name Noodle Oodle might not be familiar to many but mention Inn Noodle and a few more might recollect a fast-paced noodle restaurant. This London restaurant holds the world record for hand-pulled noodles, and has reopened with a new name and look. It was opened in the summer by London's deputy mayor, Richard Barnes.

The restaurant which specialises in Shanghainese cuisine was awarded the Guinness World Record for the most number of bowls of hand-pulled noodles in less than three minutes, when its head chef, Fei Wang, beat the “celebrated” Gordon Ramsay in a head-to-head competition. Leave it to the experts, Gordon. Chef Wang has also appeared on UKTV Food’s Market Kitchen.

La Mien or Hand Pulled Noodles originate in Northwest China and Lanzhou in Gansu Province and are a popular dish all over China. The open kitchen at Noodle Oodle allows the customers as well as passers-by to witness the skill of Chef Wang who seems to be able to make these delicious noodles in seconds. But that’s not all that’s on offer here.

Noodle Oodle at 25 Oxford Street is a small establishment surrounded by unprepossessing shops. One might not expect to find such good food right here but this spot has been discovered by a host of discerning customers. It’s a bijou restaurant with dark wood tables and cream walls. It doesn’t shout Chinese restaurant. There isn’t a fish tank or carvings of willow-pattern scenes. The surroundings are unfussy and practical.

There seems to be a reassuring number of regular diners at Noodle Oodle. Europeans and Asians alike who have recognised this eatery as good value for money. A glance around at one’s fellow clients will offer the mental note “don’t over-order”. The portions are substantial. There are always meal promotions for £5.70 and also a 3 course offer for £9.80. Dim Sum, pork or chi
restaurant review dumplingscken of various kinds and rice or noodles as well as a dessert for under a tenner is amazing.

The restaurant, although small, has three kitchen areas. The dramatic noodle-pulling arena in the window, a
dim sum station and a separate area for stir-fries. The chefs are specially trained in China and are prized for their skills. We resolved to take advantage of those aforementioned skills and ordered a selection of dishes. There are 100 or so dishes on the menu, each with a clear picture, text and description in both Chinese and English. This must be a great relief to non-English speaking tourists.

We started with the Pork Dumplings. I think the management should rename these as Magic Dumplings. There is a trick and safety measure for eating these. Pick one up with chopsticks and place on spoon. Nibble a corner to allow some of the broth to drain into the spoon and then enjoy in a couple of hot bites and a slurp. But how are they made? A trade secret. The Pork and Vegetable Dumplings are also worth trying. The Queensway branch offers Halal dishes. These have had the pork replaced by chicken.The chefs have takenrestaurant review soup great care (3 months or so of experimenting with different recipes and cooking methods) to achieve results that are a good approximation of the original.

You’ll not want to miss the famous noodles. The texture is quite unlike that of dried, commercial varieties. The restaurant makes the fresh dough three or four times each day. They are the key ingredient for a collection of dishes but we chose to try them in a broth. This was flavourful and light and alone would have made a hearty meal.

The aromatic Beef Stew Pot was another rib-sticking dish. This had a rich sauce with plenty of chunks of meat. The seasoning was subtle and unmistakably Chinese with tones of five spice. The stew was served in a clay pot which made for an attractive presentation. Special fried rice helped to mop up the sauce. My guest pronounced this the best rice he had eaten in a long time.

The roast meat platter was exceptionally good. The duck was cooked to perfection, the Barbecue Pork was moist and flavourful but I’ll say the Crispy Pork should be as much a signature dish as the noodles. The meat was succulent but the crackling was a triumph. You won’t want to miss this dish. I consider myself a reasonable cook but I have never managed to cook pork, and more importantly its skin, so well.

If you have a inch of room left at the end of a meal you could consider a dessert. The Mango and Pomelo Sago is cool, creamy and refreshing although it’s made with skimmed milk. A no-guilt pleasure.

No surprise that Noodle Oodle is so popular. It has a cult following of regulars and a good passing trade of tourists. I’ll return and try more from this menu that offers something different from most Chinese restaurants. Quick service. Good prices. Great food. Happy customers.


Restaurant review: Noodle Oodle
25, Oxford Street, London W1D 2DW (non Halal)
106 Queensway London W2 3RR
mostly food journal

Piya Piya – Thai Restaurant

Just yards from Old Street Station, Piya Piya is best known as the haunt of late-night city sorts. Its location Piya Piya Thai restaurant reviewhas made it popular for groups who appreciate the evident skill of the barmen, who have a repertoire of exotic cocktails. You know, dear reader, that this reviewer is a bit long in the tooth for all that, so, as you would expect, I was there to eat.

Piya Piya is not only a lounge bar but also a Thai restaurant. It should be just as famed for the food as the booze. It attracts a loyal following of diners earlier in the evening, who come to enjoy the menu which has some amazing dishes.

Thai restaurants are not as ubiquitous as Indian or Chinese so you won’t be the first to ask for some advice when ordering. Our waitress was charming, knowledgeable and attentive. She suggested Pad Thai as one of the most popular dishes and recommended the Morning Glory as the vegetable side order to accompany my squid with peppers (Murk Pad Gratiam Prik Thai). We munched on prawn crackers while we waited for our first course. The regular white crackers were joined by some delicious ochre-coloured ones that were seasoned with pepper. They were moreish and were thankfully not whisked away on the arrival of the main event.

Food presentation here is thoughtful and attractive. Our starter platter was a vision of gold. It led one to expect something rather special. The prawn toast was crunchy on the outside but still moist in the centre. There were Thai Golden Bags (minced chicken and herbs), Thai Fish Cakes and Vegetable Spring Rolls but I’d say the Chicken Satay was unbeatable. The meat was juicy with a flavour of char-grilling. The snacks were served with three dipping sauces.

Squid isn’t the easiest of seafood to prepare so naturally I order it at every opportunity, not just to be devil’s advocate but because I love it. Piya Piya evidently has a chef who knows his stuff. The coils of white flesh were tender and the peppers still had a little bite. It’s a must-try. The Morning Glory was something of a revelation. This particular version was stir-fried with black bean sauce, garlic and ginger and I’ll be asking the chef for the recipe. Yes, it went well with the squid but it has sufficient character to have made a light lunch with just a bowl of rice. This wasn’t a dish to order just to feel noble for eating one of your five a day, this was a winner.

Piya Piya has already attracted a regular clientele but it would be a shame if it remained only celebrated by night-owls. It’s well worth a visit. An early meal here will have you rubbing shoulders with office workers and Thais alike. The service was impeccable and the food everything you would expect of a good value restaurant. I would eat here again.

Visit Piya Piya here.

Restaurant opening hours:
11.30 am – 3.00pm Monday to Friday
5.30pm – 11pm Monday to Friday

Piya Piya - Thai Restaurant & Lounge Bar
1 Oliver’s Yard
City Road
London EC1Y 1HQ

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Satay House

The restaurant was opened in 1973 by the late Jaafar A. Shawal with his wife Zaharah Hashim. They had Satay Housealready established one of Malaysia’s first fine-dining restaurants in Kuala Lumpur called the Shawal Restaurant, and operated a hotel and beach resort on the West coast of Malaysia.

The couple wanted to bring traditional authentic Malaysian cuisine to the increasing Malaysian community in London and to share the cuisine with the rest of the population. It’s been a favourite haunt for Malaysian expats as well as locals who enjoy its relaxed atmosphere. These days, their daughter Fatizah Shawal continues to run the restaurant.

Malaysian cuisine isn’t Chinese and it isn’t Indian. It has been influenced by both, along with Nyonya (Straits Chinese) and the dishes of Borneo. It has some familiar flavours but others which might be new to you. Satay House specialises in the traditional ‘Malay’ style of cooking. It has quite a cult following amongst the local Malaysian population and that’s a sure sign that the food is authentic.

Satay House is a bright and modern oasis. It seems quite small but there is a lower ground floor which can seat 35-40 guests. It’s a cosy spot with an alcove accommodating those who want a bit of privacy. The large tear-drop lamps give an agreeable retro ambiance.

The menu is quite comprehensive, with, reassuringly, some dishes that even a diner new to Malaysian food might at least have heard of. Ask the waitress for her advice on combinations of dishes.

We ordered Keropok (prawn crackers) and Satay (skewers of char-grilled chicken or lamb marinated in spices and herbs, served with peanut sauce), which is something that most would have tried before, but these were moist and flavourful and a good start to our exploration.

Nasi Putih (steamed basmati rice) was served with our Kari Kambing (Malaysian lamb curry) and Ayam Percik (grilled chicken cooked in coconut milk and spices). Many high-street restaurants have shortcuts to food preparation; some use one base sauce for all dishes and just add different spices to finish. All the dishes here tasted individually prepared. The chicken in particular was meltingly tender and the large chunks of flesh made the meal quite substantial.

Sambal Tumis Udang (prawn in spicy sambal chillies) was spicy but not overpoweringly so. This should be a signature dish for Satay House. It packs a punch of flavour as well as heat.

Daging Goreng Kicap (stir-fried beef in soy sauce, peppers and chopped chillies) was the best I have tasted and was tender and rich. A definite favourite of my carnivore guest.

This was my first visit to Satay House. I found the food to be light without the all-too-common oil-slick, delicious and well prepared. The menu offers lots of dishes that are worth trying and would be enjoyed by those who already have a love of Asian food. It’s good value for money in a convenient location between Paddington and the Edgware Road.

Visit Satay House here.
 
Open 7 days a week.
Opening hours are:
Lunch: 12noon - 3.00pm
Dinner: 6.00pm - 11.00pm

Restaurant review: Satay House
13 Sale Place, Paddington, London W2 1PX
Phone: 020 7723 6763
info@satay-house.co.uk

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Tsunami – Charlotte Street

This restaurant is the haunt of many regulars who, if they are sensible, will not be spreading the word. Whorestaurant review Tsunami wants to find their favourite eatery fully booked every night of the week? There is a danger that Tsunami will be... or at least should be. If I was a selfish reviewer (and bearing in mind I want to return often) I would be carelessly forgetting to include the name of the restaurant or perhaps I might consider a misspelling to put you off the scent of this gem.

Tsunami is at the quiet end of Charlotte Street. It’s just a stone’s throw from Goodge Street station but this is a tranquil spot away from the rush of Tottenham Court Road.

It isn’t a huge restaurant. A narrow front leads to a wider area which is cosy and welcoming. The walls curve into the ceiling giving an agreeable intimate effect. The décor is minimalist without being too Zen or stark, and polished walls reflect light with a blossom motif in gold. The restaurant hints at traditional Japan but avoids the too-themed design of many a lesser establishment. Even the door handles give the impression of style.

It’s the attention to detail that is remarkable. The waiting staff are knowledgeable and engaging and take evident pride in their work. The presentation of each dish would not have been out of place in a 5-star restaurant. Each serving dish was different and thoughtfully chosen and even the paper liner for fried food was folded in the classic manner.

Nasu Goma (Grilled Aubergine with Sesame Paste) were delicious bites of piping hot pleasure. A marvellously welcoming start to a cold-weather dining experience. The hot Sake added to the warming comfort. Courgette Flowers stuffed with blue cheese served with miso dipping sauce continued the thawing. The tempura was light in both colour and texture and was a sweet counterpoint to the salty ooziness of the filling. Moreish, I’d say.

Lamb Cutlets (Organic best end lamb) grilled in Korean kimchi chilli sauce and served with daikon radish kimchi presented us with the most tender and flavourful meat. It’s one of the most popular dishes and a must-try. OK, it might not be the first dish that comes to mind when visiting a Japanese restaurant but it works.

Yellowtail Sashimi Jalapeno is a visual triumph. Thinly sliced yellowtail fish with coriander, garlic and finely sliced chilli in yuzu ponzu sauce was delicate but with a hot and spicy kick. This was another dish that seemed much favoured by the regulars.

The pièce de resistance (although there were two so I guess they would be pièces de resistance) was/were firstly the Black Cod with its sweet glaze. This was melt-in-the-mouth tender and succulent. It flaked into translucent petals at the slightest pressure of a chop stick. The second was beef. This wasn’t the Kobe beef of legend: each cow being massaged and fed beer makes for an amazingly expensive steak. This was Aberdeen Angus and one could have eaten it with a spoon. If you are a card-carrying carnivore you’ll not want to miss this. Tsunami offer two alternatives: Wasabi Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef with creamed leeks, oriental mushrooms, wasabi pepper sauce and foie gras, or Aberdeen Angus Fillet of Beef served with sea urchin and foie gras butter. Both are good but the foie gras butter adds a touch of creamy luxury.

The desserts made a memorable finish to a memorable meal. The Chocolate Fondant was as good as you might find in France. It moved with a sensual shimmer when poked and that’s a good sign that there really is some molten chocolate sauce inside rather than the accusing void that I have been confronted with at other restaurants. The Green Tea ice cream was vibrant and refreshing and the tangy Crème Brulée served in a lidded tea mug was a rich and decadent conclusion to a thoroughly good meal.

Tsunami is a restaurant to which I want to return. A reviewer’s palate can become jaded after a succession of evenings of food tasting but I left this restaurant with a skip in my step and renewed enthusiasm. Tsunami offered quality at affordable prices. I hope no changes are made. There is nothing to be improved upon and that is a rare accolade.

Restaurant review:
Tsunami
Charlotte Street
London W1T 4PY
http://www.tsunamirestaurant.co.uk/westend.html

mostly food journal

Bavarian Beerhouse

Yes, your intrepid restaurant reviewer has sought out another interesting eatery for my dear reader to try. This one is truly a bit different and it has a certain quirky charm. It’s the Bavarian Beerhouse on City Road near Old Street Station.

Established in December 2005, the Restaurant/Bar has quickly become popular with guests who are looking for a genuine German beer-hall experience. This is the very spot for that. There is the traditional service provided by waitresses in Bavarian "Dirndl" dresses. And a bar that would make any Munich drinking establishment proud. Yes, the beer really does arrive in litre glasses.There is a good selection of real German beers as well as schnapps and spirits.

The front area of the Beerhouse is, well, a beer house. It has wooden benches and on football evenings, screens to watch the big match. It’s a venue designed for group conviviality. It has a good number of regular clients who might come to eat and play cards at lunch times. The Sunday until Wednesday guests can enjoy "Bavarian Gemuetlichkeit" and have a relaxed and quiet time, but on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays it gets busy with big groups.
London restaurant review Bavarian Beerhouse

There is an authentic-looking ski hut or "Skihütte"at the back of the Beerhouse for those who want a quieter but equally authentic Bavarian experience. It’s a wood-clad cabin with room for 40 or so guests, it’s smart and folksy and ideal for cold winter nights. Start the evening with Glühwein – hot mulled wine, or Apfelwein – hot German cider.

A traditional Bavarian menu is a big part of the character of the Bavarian Beerhouse. All meat, pretzels and bread are imported from Germany so you know it’s the real thing. The dishes are substantial but that is part of the draw. This is an establishment ideal for those with hearty appetites but there are vegetarian options. Entire suckling pig is available for groups of 30 or so. Order in advance as they probably won’t have one just waiting in the fridge.

The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Kitchen closes at 10pm. The Dinner menu is often updated with specialities like White Asparagus in May. If you have had holidays in Germany then you will be familiar with many of the dishes on offer here.

Obazda Cheese, a Bavarian speciality, was my choice for a starter. This is a creation of mature cheese mixed with cream cheese, butter, beer, onions, paprika and caraway seeds, served with a pretzel. This was tangy and ideal for those of us who don’t want meat with every course. The pretzel dough is imported from Germany but baked fresh at the Beerhouse.

My guest chose Weisswurst – traditional Bavarian White Sausage. Two Bavarian white sausages, served with a pretzel and sweet mustard. These were presented in an intriguing fashion, arriving in a little bowl of hot water. Very practical. There is a technique for eating these sausages and the management thoughtfully provide instructions. Cut the skins and remove the sausage meat before devouring with sweet mustard. They might not look like your regular banger but my guest proclaimed them to be flavourful and delicious.

It was Monday and that’s Schnitzel Special day. There are several varieties on offer at the Beerhouse but I chose Wiener Schnitzel – classic breaded pork escalope served with French fries and a mixed salad. This is a simple dish but when it’s good it’s unbeatable and this one was. Be warned though, this is a meal for those with healthy appetites or those who have been shovelling snow from the runways at City Airport all morning.

My guest tucked into Spicy Bavarian Beerhouse "Wurstplatte" for his main course - spiral sausage (Bratwurst Schnecke), Merguez spicy sausage, cheese cracker sausage (Kaeseknacker) served with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and mustard. This was a good combination of German sausages and North African lamb sausage which has become popular all over Europe.

In the unlikely event that you will have space for a dessert you can indulge in Kaiserschmarrn, which is a Bavarian-style pancake with raisins, or Apfelstrudel served with cream; and there is always Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, the celebrated Black Forest Chocolate Cake. My companion enjoyed his Bavarian pancake which is described as ‘scrambled’: the batter is stirred to create a sweet confection in bits rather than a flat doily. Well worth trying.

Bavarian Beerhouse has two distinct characters. It’s a party spot for groups and sports lovers but the ski hut provides a smart and private haven. Both the Skihütte and the Beerhouse offer good food at reasonable prices.


Restaurant review: Bavarian Beerhouse
190 City Road
London EC1V 2QH
http://www.bavarian-beerhouse.com

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© Copyright C.Walker 2010