Latest News!
- Gurkha Justice Campaign (http://gurkhajustice.org.uk)
needs your help! Gurkhas are fighting for Justice. They want the same
terms and conditions as their UK and Commonwealth counterparts.
Britain has had no greater friends than the Gurkhas. They have served
all across the world in the defence of our Country for nearly 200
years. Over 45,000 died in the two World Wars as part of the British
Army. They are still fighting in the British Army today.
These brave people are not asking you to give your life (they have
already given theirs for you), just put your signature to the online
petition.
- Lotte Duncan is The new Face of Food on QVC. We can find
her there from November.
- Lotte has just a few places left for her Christmas classes:
3rd December - 3 places left
10th December - 2 places left
If any of you have been thinking of booking, and not got around to it,
then please get in touch with Lotte at Lottecookschool@aol.com to
reserve your place. Lotte will be demonstrating a lovely Christmassy
menu for you, there'll be mulled cider, cake, sausage rolls and
mincepies to nibble, and then lunch in her very own dining room -
complete with crackers and wine!
Buonissimo!
This is the second book by Gino D’Acampo. His first, Fantastico, won the Gourmand Cookbook Award for the Best
Italian Cookbook in the World. It’s safe to say that the lad described
as the Italian Stallion by UKTV Food’s irreplaceable Jeni Barnett has a
good idea about what makes a popular cookbook.
Buonissimo is the latest offering from this young man. He has, I must
admit, a certain sexy charm. He has that tee-shirted,
designer-stubbled, southern look which some women find so attractive...
OK, OK, so he decorates his books very well, but I’ll drag myself away
and focus on the food.
This is a stylish volume with photography by Kate Whitaker who does a
lovely job as usual. It presents recipes for just one person, a
romantic couple, everyday suppers, easy but impressive recipes, and
party food. Gino introduces some personal notes that add a little
insight into the character of this man – a family man who appreciates
the need for comforting meals for kids as well as classy dishes for
formal evenings.
The recipes reflect modern tastes as you would expect from a young
chef, but he is mindful of time constraints. There are plenty that are
Italian in concept but others that are more international, like Curried
Beans and Hot and Spicy Chick Peas. The book is no worse for those
inclusions. This is, after all, the fashion of British eating.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of recipes to illustrate the
style of Buonissimo. The dishes are diverse but delicious with an
unfussy, non-chefy look. Roasted Onions in Rosemary and Balsamic
Vinegar are a traditional antipasti or a smart side dish for roast
meats.
I enjoy both cooking and eating risotto of any kind, and Gino has a
great example here: Risotto with Parma Ham and Vin Santo. You can
substitute the Vin Santo with another medium white wine. This dish is
not difficult to make but I think it’s good enough as a meal for
friends at the weekend.
Limoncello and Lime Granita is a stunner! Any make-ahead recipe gets
lots of points from me. Gino suggests this as a palate-cleanser between
savoury courses. I’d be happy with this at the end of a rich or heavy
meal or even just as a refreshing interlude on a hot (it could happen)
summer afternoon.
Perhaps I should end by mentioning Gino’s Playboy Eggs! It’s got your
imagination working but I’ll tell you that it’s just a cheeky name for
a trendy breakfast of eggs, bacon, mushrooms and cheese. Served in a
cup as Gino recommends, this would make a very special late morning
snack. Perhaps that should have been included in the Romantico Chapter!
Buonissimo is bound to be as successful as Fantastico. Both the food and the author look great!
Buonissimo!
Author: Gino D’Acampo
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-807-3
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
You already know, dear reader, that I have a passion for Indian food so it’s no surprise that I, once again, feature a
book about the dishes of the subcontinent. This, however, is a little
different from the previously reviewed cookbooks, as its focus is on
future trends, as well as including lesser-known classic dishes.
The author, Vivek Singh, is the executive chef at the celebrated
Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He
has previously penned The Cinnamon Club Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club
Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and Contemporary is a marvellous
showcase for this man’s talent and unique perspective.
But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a curry”,
“let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for
any kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather
amused by our notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or
horrified at our ignorance). It seems that the misconception dates back
to the British officers of the East India Company. These chaps spent
their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak the language so when
asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was “curry” tonight
rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the delicious array
of other diverse dishes.
The recipes here are striking. I recognise the classics like Jungle
Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there are many more that are
new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a popular
restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as
it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a
scotch egg (boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic
sauce. Those army officers in India would recognise this one.
I love Raan (leg of lamb) and Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan
is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes the most wonderful presentation
for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a bit of work but you’ll
find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the meat which
will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous aroma
that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the
table.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are both
of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my
way through every dish. A delight.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9-781904-573883
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
This is another amazing book from John Wiley publishers. They might not
be the most celebrated of cookbook publishers but the food-related
books that they present are some of the best around, and Sauces is
included in that list.
You know that any book, cookery or otherwise, that reaches its third
edition has got to be worth looking into. James Peterson deserves
to be proud of Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making. It’s
not only popular with the cookbook-reading public but it has also won
the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award. This amazing volume is
even used in culinary colleges and schools as a teaching aid.
Don’t be put off by the size of this book. It’s true that it’s as big
as a small piece of furniture but it’s as big as that for a good
reason. There isn’t any padding in Sauces. It’s cover-to-cover solid
information that will be welcomed by anyone wanting to perfect
sauce-making. Nothing seems to be omitted or overlooked. Every
imaginable sauce is described, including Asian Sauces which have been
added since the publication of the first edition.
There is, unsurprisingly, still a French bias but the book is no worse
for that. Those sauces have a structure that enables flexibility and
adaptation, and that’s the reason the methods have become classic. The
contemporary sauces reflect modern tastes for lighter and healthier
dishes where cream is less evident.
The book has a marvellous chapter on Pasta Sauces. James takes as much
care over his catalogue of Pasta Shapes (over 30 in all) as he does
over the pasta dressing, and these are not necessarily rich,
tomato-based and complicated. It’s more about flavour of fresh
ingredients and subtle combinations. Spaghetti with Clams or Mussels
offers the choice of a cream or olive oil base, although Fettuccine and
Shrimp with Crustacean Cream Sauce sticks to the luxurious and classic
heavy (double) cream.
Desserts are not forgotten and the selection here is enough to make me
quit my diet. Butterscotch Sauce is so delightful that I doubt it will
get as far as garnishing a dessert - I’ll be eating it from the pan
with a spoon.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making is bound to become a
culinary icon. It has been so well received since its first
publication. Its admirers are not only professionals but include
ordinary folk who enjoy good food and want to present
restaurant-quality meals. Any serious cook will want to own this book.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
Author: James Peterson
Published by: John Wiley
Price: £29.99
ISBN 978-0-470-19496-6
 The Chinese Kitchen
“ ... People who know Deh-ta say that he is one terrific chef, a chap who makes spectacular banquets, and one
outstanding culinary host... If you do not already know this prolific
author’s publications, you must! You need to try his recipes and learn
from him. You will not be disappointed...” (The Institute for the
Advancement of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine.)
Deh-ta Hsiung must be one of the authors most qualified to pen an
encyclopaedia of Chinese ingredients, for that is exactly what The
Chinese Kitchen represents. It’s a comprehensive and thoroughly
engaging volume that will add to your knowledge of some foods and
introduce you to others.
The formula for The Chinese Kitchen is that used by Kyle Cathie for
several of their other publications, and it’s a style that works very
well. Each ingredient is described, everything from growing to storing,
and then on to culinary uses and recipes. Always well illustrated
(around 300 photographs in this particular volume), these books
demystify ethnic cooking and encourage us to take advantage of the
amazing variety of ingredients available these days.
Apart from being a definitive guide to the Chinese store cupboard, The
Chinese Kitchen offers over 200 recipes which will tempt you away from
the local take-away and into the local Asian market. The recipes are
not difficult to prepare and they are authentic and irresistible. You
could do worse than to carry this book with you to the Chinese
supermarket. Your filled shopping basket will, no doubt, impress the
lady on the till who will rightly suppose that tonight’s dinner will be
a marvellous affair.
You’ll want to cook your carefully selected purchases, and there is a
dish here for every taste. Bean Curd is an example of a popular Chinese
ingredient and there is a lovely recipe for Sichuan Spicy Bean Curd.
Any dish cooked in the Sichuan fashion is bound to be punchy and
flavourful and this version uses chilli bean paste and Sichuan
peppercorns to supply the heat.
Ken Hom says of The Chinese Kitchen: “I trust that this major culinary
work from the masterchef himself will be a proud companion to your
Chinese cookery books as well as being a standard reference.” That’s a
fantastic accolade from one of the best about one of the best and I
couldn’t put it better myself.
The Chinese Kitchen
Author: Deh-ta Hsiung
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-702-1
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
And now, dear reader, for something completely different! This is all
about cooking method, or I could more reasonably say it’s about making
the most delicious food using a particular cooking method. The clue is
in the title: Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes. The
Pressure Cooker element is self-explanatory, but who is the
aforementioned Miss Vickie?
Miss Vickie Smith is the foremost authority on pressure cooking. She
has an amazingly popular web site (MissVickie.com) devoted to the
subject. It has been visited more than 2 million times since 2001. That
statistic alone is enough to encourage me to explore the world of
pressure cooking. There must be a reason for all this interest.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the most
comprehensive work on the subject. It’s a hefty tome containing nearly
400 recipes, a buyer’s guide (handy for those of us who are swelling
the ranks of the clueless), instructions, adapting your favourite
recipes, and safety (Aunty Jean from next door would not even visit if
my mum was using her pressure cooker).
A pressure cooker ought to be considered as the latest “green” kitchen
gadget. Think about it: it takes a fraction of the normal time to cook
dried beans or large cuts of meat, and you can have mashed potatoes in
five minutes. Less cooking time equals less fuel which translates into
smaller gas or electricity bills for the already financially stretched
household. Factor in the time saved by using this ultra-quick method
and the whole proposition is starting to look attractive.
The UK seems to be rather backward with regard to this type of cooking.
Every French household has a well-used pressure cooker and many Indian
housewives will own two. If you are a vegetarian or a budget-conscious
carnivore then you will find it an indispensible part of your kitchen
battery. Chickpeas will be soft in minutes and cheaper joints of meat
will be rendered tender and succulent in no time at all.
Miss Vickie’s recipes are mouthwatering. It’s very evident that the
author is USA-based so there are just a couple of ingredients that you
might struggle to find, such as particular chillies (although South Devon Chilli Farm has a marvellous selection of chillies that could easily be substituted). You’ll need to know that cilantro is coriander.
Salisbury Steak with Mushroom Gravy is an American classic and a great
family dish. It takes less than ten minutes in the pressure cooker plus
a little extra time for preparation and finishing. You can feed the
kids and your hard-working wife in less than half an hour. 8 Minute
Chili will be another winner and it only takes... umm.. 8 minutes!
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the “must have”
cookbook for anyone who wants to feel confident about choosing and
using a pressure cooker. It’s persuaded me to take another look. Great
value for money.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
Author: Vickie Smith
Published by: John Wiley and Sons
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7645-0726-8
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Even the title of this book fills you with a warm feeling of comfort. Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and
Chutneys is an old-fashioned and charming cookbook with text in sepia
tones and photography by Tara Fisher. Clearly-written recipes and a bit
of history with many of them is a nice touch in a National Trust book.
Sara Paston-Williams is a celebrated author and broadcaster. Her books
include Good Old-Fashioned Puddings. She has a wealth of experience of
traditional recipes which are now finding an appreciative audience
among a new generation of cooks who want to make the best of fruit and
vegetables when in season.
Apart from the aforementioned Jams and Chutneys there are plenty of
interesting and classy preserves. The Pickles chapter offers
modern-sounding recipes that include Pickled Chillies, Spiced
Blackberries, and Spiced Orange Slices. All of these are simple to make
and would be lovely Christmas gifts.
If you have a taste for the more exotic then there are Preserved Lemons
which will look stunning in large glass jars. They are expensive to buy
in the deli but you can make them yourself with a few spices and some
coarse sea salt. They are delicious and add a truly authentic touch to
many Moroccan Tagines.
Perhaps the most quintessentially English recipe has got to be that of
Trelissick Lemon Curd. Trelissick is a National Trust property near
Falmouth in Cornwall, where this curd is a filling for homemade lemon
sponge. What could be nicer for breakfast, though, than some thick-cut
toast and Lemon Curd or Blackberry Curd, or the tangy Strawberry and
Orange Curd?
Mincemeat is another uniquely British confection and it’s true that
Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without it. There is a Traditional
recipe here but also some variations that are well worth trying. Cherry
and Walnut Mincemeat encased in philo pastry would add a more
continental flavour, and Pear and Fig Mincemeat is flexible as you can
substitute dates for figs and use rum, whisky, sherry or cider instead
of brandy.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys is a book of solid,
well-written recipes that will encourage you to fill your larder with
the best that each season has to offer. The jars will look amazing and
the contents will persuade you that home-made is best.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Author: Sara Paston-Williams
Published by: Anova- National Trust
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-905400-70-6
Moveable Feasts
You know, dear reader, that I’ll write about anything to do with food
and kitchens. Well, this book, Moveable Feasts – What to Eat and How to
Cook it in the Great Outdoors, supplies lots of information on food but
not much on kitchens. It’s about campsite cooking and would be an ideal
companion for the woodsy sorts who love mountain biking, climbing,
hiking, fell running (can never understand the appeal) and those who
like living in a tent.
Moveable Feasts is a surprisingly interesting book, even for me who has
certificates for enjoying comfortable lodgings and non-inflatable beds.
The authors, Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin, have written a veritable
handbook for anyone who wants to eat well whilst surrounded by
countryside, and there is plenty here that will be useful for the less
adventurous who have a caravan in tow.
The book is divided in two, with the first part being devoted to
practical insights into choosing energy-giving foods, building a fire
pit and avoiding water-borne illness. If you stay well long enough
you’ll appreciate reading the second part, which presents nearly one
hundred recipes, designed to be made with only limited equipment. All
measurements are by volume so you don’t need to cart around a set of
kitchen scales.
The recipes are a real surprise and I couldn’t imagine how there could
be nearly one hundred dishes made over an open fire - perhaps one
hundred sausages (organic or vegetarian)? Not a bit of it! This is
great food and fun to make. How about Sponge Cake cooked in a camp oven
(information in this book), or Cheesecake? Thai Curry has got to be the
smart face of outdoor eating, and you can invite the folks from the
tent next door when you cook Garlic Mussels.
It’s not only food for those who treat their bodies like temples, it’s
equally food that kids will love to eat and will probably want to cook.
The notes on gathering wild ingredients (no, not Farmer Brown’s bull)
are fascinating and will add another dimension to your trip.
Moveable Feasts is a well-written volume with sensible advice to enable
you to eat well and safely when away from home. Even I am tempted to go
camping... in the south of Spain next summer!
Moveable Feasts
Authors: Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin
Published by: Cicerone
Price: £14.95
ISBN 978-1-85284-534-6
Tapas
Who wouldn’t love little dishes of delectable morsels? That’s the charm of tapas, lots of different tastes and
textures. Tapas, the book that is, has pictures by one of my favourite
food photographers. Any book that Gus Filgate is associated with is
bound to be stunning. 
Tapas is the flagship book of the celebrated restaurant El Parador. Both authors can cook every dish on the
restaurant menu so it’s safe to say they know what they are talking
about. Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas have penned these lovely
recipes that transport me back to Spain, to tapas bars with high
counters groaning under the weight of an amazing variety of dishes.
Presenting a meal of tapas is just about the most casual form of
entertaining. It’s convivial and a real ice-breaker, with everyone
taking a little of this, a spoonful of that. It’s the culinary version
of painting by numbers with each guest eating their choices in
different combinations. It’s an ideal way of feeding lots of people
with diverse tastes.
If you or your friends are vegetarian then you might feel that you have
been short-changed with regard to dinner parties. There often seems to
be a rather naff veggie option for non-meat eaters, and there are
plenty of carnivores who don’t feel as though they have eaten unless an
animal of some description had been sacrificed. Tapas, however, offers
such a fantastic selection of dishes that you are bound to find lots to
satisfy every dietary, cultural or ethical need.
It’s no surprise to see Tortilla Espanola (potato omelette) in the
Vegetables chapter and this is lovely when made well. Serve it hot and
fresh from the pan. Patatas Bravas are another staple of tapas bars and
they are always popular and simple. Spinach and Cheese Parcels are a
favourite at El Parador but this version uses ready-rolled pastry so
it’s an easy one for the home cook.
There is so much here that is stylish and seriously easy and that’s got
to be good. Purée de Habas Verdes (puréed broad beans
with pan-fried garlic, rosemary and olive oil) has a real flavour of
southern sunshine. It has eight cloves of garlic - don’t be tempted to
cut down on that number. Even easier are the Fresh Marinated Anchovies
which only demand a little chopping of garlic and parsley. That’s two
tapas quickly sorted long before your guests arrive.
The fish dishes in Tapas are just as I remember them. There are plenty
of squid but, for the less adventurous, mussels, prawns, scallops and
even smoked haddock which could be welcomed by those who get anxious
about “foreign food”. Hake Deep-fried in a Light Beer Batter is so good
that you’ll be advised to make a double batch, and Char-grilled
Sardines will tempt almost anyone when that distinctive and
mouth-watering aroma wafts from the barbeque.
My favourite recipe in Tapas is for Chicken Croquettes. They will be
familiar to anyone who has eaten in tapas bars either in Spain or the
UK. It’s authentic and comforting and a dish that works well as part of
a regular meal with a green salad and some tomatoes. Ham can be
substituted for the chicken, or even vegetables - a flexible and
delicious dish.
Tapas is a cracker of a cookbook. I am so impressed that I’ll probably
be having tapas parties for quite a while. The recipes are suitable for
summer al fresco eating, but equally for cold nights in with some fine
sherry or a nice bottle of red. Hope we hear more from Carlos Horrillo
and Patrick Morcas in the future.
Tapas
Authors: Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-806-6
A Kitchen Year
You might not recognise the name Paula McIntyre but she is, in fact,
one of Northern Ireland’s top chefs. Paula trained at the Johnson and
Wales Culinary Arts School in the USA before opening the award-winning
Undrie restaurant in Manchester. She now gives private and corporate
cooking lessons at Ghan House, Carlingford in Northern Ireland. But
perhaps her finest hour was beating Paul Rankin on Ready, Steady Cook.
A Kitchen Year is Paula’s first book although she is an accomplished
food writer and broadcaster. It’s a light and airy volume with
marvellous photography by Hugh McElveen. The focus is on fresh and
local ingredients and the changes that each new season brings. It’s a
popular theme these days but that’s the way it should be if you have
any regard for yourself or the environment.
The book is divided, as you would expect, by month and the recipes are
well chosen. Paula has a good selection of dishes for both meat eaters
and vegetarians. There are traditional favourites but the overall
impression is of contemporary, healthy and delicious. The food isn’t
over-chefy but is smart, and practical for the home cook.
January starts with an international flavour of Chorizo and Potato
Empanadas served with Roast Garlic, Red Onion and Chilli Mojo. It might
sound complicated but the Mojo is made in advance so you can have a
stylish starter or snack in no time.
Sarbled Fadge sounds like something from Edward Lear who penned such
gems as The Dong with a Luminous Nose and The Akond of Swat. It is, in
fact, traditional potato bread which has the unique addition of a
little polenta or maize meal. It might not seem very Irish but maize
meal was sent from America at the time of the famine.
We should all eat more fish, and Moroccan-Spiced Mackerel is tempting.
The seasoning is cardamom, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds
and smoked paprika. Gone are the days of cheap fish but at least the
humble mackerel is a reasonable price and it’s one of those oily fish
that is so good for your health.
A Kitchen Year offers some truly different and delightful dishes.
Festive Spiced Ham Terrine with Pomegranate Molasses Dressing might be
a bit of a mouthful but you could use leftover ham to cut down on the
preparation - another great make-ahead starter for Christmas. And
talking of Christmas, how about White Chocolate, Orange and Cranberry
Fudge? It looks festive and tastes luxurious with a hint of Grand
Marnier. Paula says this fudge will last for up to two weeks. I don’t
think so!
A Kitchen Year is a book full of innovation and I personally love
Paula’s choice of recipes. The food reflects modern tastes and it’s
bound to become a popular seasonal cookbook. Paula McIntyre should be
proud. I look forward to more books but this one will be hard to beat.
A Kitchen Year
Author: Paula McIntyre
Published by: Gill and Macmillan
Price: £ 14.99, €18.99
ISBN 978-0-7171-4321-4
Student Cookbook
Sam Stern is a young but already experienced cookbook author. When I say “young” I mean YOUNG! He is still a
teenager but has the handsome fresh face of a ten-year-old. However,
read his book and you realise that the lad should be considered an
author first, and one with a remarkable future.
Perhaps student cookbooks could be divided into two distinct groups.
There are those that are chosen by parents (probably mums) for the
soon-to-exit youth, and those that will appeal more directly to, and be
purchased by, the students themselves. Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook
falls into the second category, although I am sure those book-buying
mums will understand the draw.
Student Cookbook is a square format, colourful volume, crammed with
marvellous pictures of food and Sam. The text is clear and the recipes
simple to follow. It’s a book aimed at the virgin cook... er, um, that
is someone who is new to cooking. None of the dishes will fill the
debutante with terror.
OK, the book is as good-looking as the author but how about the food?
There is little point in investing in a recipe book that will stay on
the shelf along with your Manga magazines. These look like just the
sorts of dishes that will tempt those hard-working students into the
kitchenette.
The food here is, for the most part, healthy without being worthy. It
doesn’t seem like the usual student food of strange combinations,
dishes of 3 ingredients one of which will be either chocolate or
Marmite. This is sensible stuff that anyone would enjoy eating -
snacks, soups, pasta, puddings, as well as veggies, meat and fish.
Each recipe is marked with a price symbol. A single £ sign
indicates “skint/saving” and £££ is for the day your
aunty sends you a bit of birthday money. Other markers let you know if
the dish is suitable for vegetarians, how many it feeds, and if it’s
fast to cook. It’s an easy way to find suitable choices at a glance.
The Noodles chapter offers Chop Suey Noodles with 4 symbols. It feeds
2, it’s good for those “skint” days, it’s fine for vegetarians and fast
to cook. I am sure the book will naturally fall open at this page after
a while.
Student cannot live by noodles alone, and puds are always cheering. How
about Apple and Banana Hot Sugared Doughnuts? Easy to make but
impressive as a dessert or late-night munchies. This recipe feeds 1 to
2 (probably 1 so make a double batch), it’s cheap, vegetarian and fast.
Sam’s cookbook will have young people cooking for themselves but also
for friends and family. There are smart dishes as well as quick and
casual meals. This is all about surviving in style on a budget. Cooking
should be fun so buy this book and eat some lovely food. Great value
for money.
Student Cookbook
Author: Sam Stern
Published by: Walker Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-4063-0818-1
The Bollywood Cookbook
This book is stuffed with the best looking people around. The author,
Bulbul Mankani, introduces us to the glamorous world of the Indian film
industry and it has a dreamlike quality. These actors and actresses are
almost too good to be true and if you believe that they eat these
wonderful dishes every day then I for one will sign up for the Gulab
Jamun Diet. But more of that later.
I confess, dear reader, that I don’t know much of Bollywood and its
films. They seem to be a confection of colour, vibrance, song and
dance, and probably preferable to the offering of blood and guts which is so often the genre of choice for western film-goers.
Bollywood films have elevated film stars to superhuman and sometimes
god-like status so it’s no surprise that there is a market for a
cookbook to allow us a little peek into the eating habits of these
famed folk. It’s not just the stars that look good; the food is
mouth-watering as well. You wouldn’t expect the beautiful people of
Mumbai to be tucking into chip butties, would you?
Although I can’t reel off the names of Indian film stars as if I was
reading the local telephone directory, I can at least recognise a few
of the most celebrated of the 19 or so featured in this volume. The
Kapoors are perhaps one of the most famous dynasties and they offer
Chicken Haleem and Yuglee Mutton. Another clan who has made film their
business is the Bachchan family, who present us with Hara Channa Masala
amongst others.
If you are a non-film-going European you might still recognise the name
Shilpa Shetty. Didn’t she do rather well on one of those “reality”
shows? Shilpa has a taste for Sukha Lamb and Spicy Beans, but for me
the best recipe has to be from Raveena Tandon. Gulab Jamun is a dessert
of melt-in-the-mouth balls of sweet syrup-soaked sponge and to know
them is to love them. Raveena is an expert at making these and can
recite the recipe from memory. That is surely the sign of a well-loved
dish.
The Bollywood Cookbook has authentic Indian food aplenty. The 75 or so
recipes are divine and not over-taxing for even a British home cook,
and this is a book of style and excitement. I already have friends who
want to borrow it and I suspect I’ll have to fight to get it back.
The Bollywood Cookbook
Author: Bulbul Mankani
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-765-6
A Food Lover’s Treasury
Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy are the compilers of this enthralling collection
of food-related literary extracts. It’s a book about the food that’s in
books. Well, if we are lucky, we eat
three times each day and food is a subject guaranteed to elicit some
kind of comment or emotion from almost everyone, so food has supplied
authors and raconteurs with witty, poignant and thought-provoking
material for generations. 
I could offer many marvellous quotations from this volume... but then
there would be no point in buying the book. You will want to own A Food
Lover’s Treasury and indulge in long leisurely evenings in front of
your winter log fire (OK, sit near the radiator), reading and enjoying.
A Food Lover’s Treasury would provide ideal material for after-dinner
speeches at caterer’s conventions or food-writers’ dinner dances. “He
was a bold man that first ate an Oyster” was an observation from
Jonathan Swift in Polite Conversation. “Cookery has become an art, a
noble science; cooks are gentlemen” will be a sentiment promoted by
most of you who will appreciate this volume... the author of this quote
was Robert Burton (1621) and obviously his quill ran out of ink before
he added “... and ladies.”
Woody Allen always has a droll view of society. From Annie Hall comes:
“There’s an old joke. Uh, two elderly women are at a Catskill mountain
resort, and one of ‘em says: ‘Boy, the food at this place is really
terrible.’ The other one says, ‘Yeah, I know, and such small portions.’”
It’s not just the pithy one-liners that find a place here. There are
plenty of longer excerpts that give a taste (if you’ll pardon the pun)
of the original publication: D.H Lawrence - Sons and Lovers, Charles
Dickens - David Copperfield, and George Orwell – In Defence of English
Cookery.
A Food Lover’s Treasury is amusing and charming. You don’t need to be a
consummate foodie to appreciate this book. Anyone who loves fine words
and good writing will devour this with relish.
A Food Lover’s Treasury
Authors: Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2912-9
Ardbeg Makes it a Double:
Scottish Island Malt awarded World Whisky of the Year...For Second Year Running!
Author of Whisky Bible 2009 pays homage to "mind-bogglingly complex" Ardbeg Uigeadail 
Ardbeg Uigeadail – a single malt whisky from Ardbeg Distillery on the
remote island of Islay – has been named World Whisky of the Year. This
follows the success of the distillery’s flagship expression Ardbeg Ten
Years Old which scooped the same honour in 2008. The award comes with
the publication of the sixth annual edition of whisky authority and
writer Jim Murray’s “Whisky Bible”.
A favourite with whisky aficionados, barmen and connoisseurs around the
world, Jim Murray has nosed and re-tasted a staggering 1500 whiskies
over the past year. The Jim Murray Whisky Bible 2009 contains 3,850
whisky tasting notes in all. Ardbeg Uigeadail received 97.5 points out
of 100, the highest ever rating awarded by Murray. The dram was
described as being "mind-bogglingly complex", "quite simple: perfect"
and of tasting Uigeadail: "one of the great moments in my whisky
life..." During the 1980s and 1990s, Ardbeg suffered from an uncertain
future and it was not until the brand was purchased by The Glenmorangie
Company in 1997 that the distillery was saved from extinction.
Since then, the distillery has risen like a phoenix and today Ardbeg is
well established as a niche, cult malt, with a passionate following.
Hamish Torrie, Ardbeg Brand Director, said: “Jim’s accolade of
identifying Uigeadail as the best whisky in the world delights all of
us who work on Ardbeg. For Ardbeg to get “Top Dog” recognition for the
second year in a row, after such a comprehensive look at all the new
whiskies that have come out recently, is some feat. It is a tribute to
the consistency, dedication and sheer skill of the team at the
distillery, and our Whisky creation team, led by Dr Bill Lumsden and
Rachel Barrie. He continued, “What really pleases us about
“winning the double” is that both are not rare, unattainable
connoisseur whiskies costing hundreds of pounds: Ardbeg Ten Years Old
and Ardbeg Uigeadail are core to our range and widely available”.
Ardbeg Uigeadail, bottled at a powerful 54.2% ABV, takes its name from
the hill loch which supplies the peat-laden water to the distillery on
Islay, and is famed for its deep, rich, smoky complexity. It retails at
around £40 in the UK. First introduced in 2003 Uigeadail – in
Gaelic it means dark, mysterious place – is a regular favourite among
Islay whisky connoisseurs. Torrie continued: "We hope this award will
raise awareness of Ardbeg still further as the distillery continues to
win fans around the world for its powerful, peaty, smoky yet
wonderfully balanced expressions." In his Whisky Bible 2009 Jim
Murray said of the whisky: "from the utter silky brilliance of the
delivery to the multi-layered middle this simply oozes complexity, and
on a level only a handful of distilleries in the world can even dream
of reaching."
Indonesian Food Indonesian
Food is a fascinating autobiographical cookbook which starts in 1939
when Sri Owen was a small girl. She has memories of food at her
sister's birthday party: boiled soya beans
in their shells, which Sri now muses are an expensive starter at smart
London restaurants. That says so much about our society!
Gus Filgate is the photographer for this remarkable volume. Any
collector of fine cookbooks will know that he is recognised as one of
the best. Indonesian Food has a chunky, square format which is
attractive enough to be a high-end travelogue. The saffron-coloured,
embossed cover encourages you to expect something special... and that’s
just what you’ll get.
Sri Owen is rightly considered the Grande Dame of Indonesian Cooking.
Her career has been broad-based to say the least. In the mid-1980s, she
even ran a delicatessen from the shop below the flat in Wimbledon,
southwest London, which she shared with her husband Roger. "Besides
preparing food for the shop, I also supplied Harrods with several
Indonesian dishes - the spicy paste sambal goreng, mini spring rolls,
and my marinade for satay and barbecues. I ran the deli for three
years. It was really hard work. I didn't even have time to read.” That
was a tragedy for a self-confessed bookaholic.
I confess that I am something of an Indonesian food debutante. It’s not
that this is a cuisine that I have avoided but more that it’s not
celebrated in the same fashion as, say, Indian, Thai or even Japanese.
Sri has chosen recipes with care and uses ingredients that you’ll find
in most well-stocked supermarkets or your local Asian food store, so
you don’t have to be an experienced cook to tackle these dishes.
There are so many “must try” recipes here and Gado-Gado is included in
that list. Sri notes “The best Gado-Gado, and I still remember it well,
used to be sold at a warung in Jogyakarta, in a small alley not far
from the main street, Malioboro. This was in 1960. For my fellow
students and me, it was the main meal of the day.” This is a delicious
preparation of vegetables and spicy peanut sauce. Healthy and full of
flavour.
But, ooohh, the chapter on ice cream! I hadn’t considered ice cream as
being popular in the east. A ridiculous oversight when I know that
Indian kulfi is a lovely end to a sub-continental meal. Sri has some
wonderful examples. Kaffir Lime Ice Cream and Coconut Ice Cream can
both be made without going to the expense of buying an ice cream maker.
Indonesian Food isn’t a book to rush. Settle into your favourite comfy
chair and read of Sri’s life, travels, tastes and experiences. Her
writing is rich, charming and evocative and this is one of the most
absorbing food-related books around.
Indonesian Food is, quite frankly, marvellous. Every recipe has impact,
every picture is vibrant. Sri Owen has a warm and accessible style that
makes this reading experience a joy.
Indonesian Food
Author: Sri Owen
Published by: Anova Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-678-7
Wonderful Pomegranate – fruit and supplements
The pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a fruit-bearing shrub or small
tree which grows to between five and eight metres tall. The pomegranate
is native to the region from Iran to the Himalayas in northern India,
and has been cultivated over the whole Mediterranean region and the
Caucasus since ancient times. It is cultivated throughout Algeria,
Armenia, Azerbaijan, Iran, India, Syria, Turkey, as well as parts of
southeast Asia, Malaysia, the East Indies, and Africa.
Introduced into South America and California by the Spanish settlers,
the pomegranate is now cultivated in California and Arizona for its
juice. In the Northern hemisphere, the fruit is in season from
September to January and in the Southern hemisphere, from March to May.
The Qur'an describes a heavenly paradise of four gardens with shade,
water and fruit trees and bushes, including the pomegranate. It is said
that each fruit contains one seed that has descended from paradise. The
prophet Mohammed decreed that followers should eat pomegranates 'to
purge the body of longing'. These days the fruit is said to have the
opposite effect!
In Judaism, the seeds are supposed to number 613, one for each of the
Jewish laws. Pomegranates decorate the pillars of King Solomon's Temple
as well as the robes of Jewish kings and priests.
Pomegranates feature in paintings of the Virgin Mary and Jesus and are
also mentioned in The Bible. According to legend, the pomegranate was
the 'tree of the knowledge of good and evil' in the Garden of Eden.
In Buddhism it is one of the three blessed fruits and represents 'the
essence of favourable influences'. According to Buddhist legend the
demoness Hariti, who ate children, was given a pomegranate to eat by
Buddha in order to cure her of that antisocial habit.
The word pomegranate comes from the French name pomme grenate ('seedy
apple'). The grenade, that nasty little weapon of war, takes its name
from the fruit.
The pomegranate is listed as a treatment for tapeworms and diarrhoea in
Andrew Chevallier's Encyclopaedia of Medicinal Plants, and it has been
used for just that till modern times. The fruit also appears on the
coats of arms of the British Medical Association, the Royal College of
Midwives, the Royal College of Obstetricians and Gynaecologists and the
Royal College of Physicians of London.
Pomegranates are a source of vitamin C, folic acid, potassium,
polyphenols and antioxidants, which help to decrease the risk of heart
disease and cancer. It has long been known that the juice has natural
antiseptic properties. According to research in 2005, pomegranate
juice works against prostate cancer cells in laboratory tests.
Pomegranates are being hailed as a super-food which can protect the
heart. Scientists in Israel have shown that drinking a glass of the
fruit's juice each day, can reduce the risk of heart disease.
"Pomegranate juice contains the highest antioxidant capacity compared
to other juices, red wine and green tea," said Professor Michael
Aviram. In studies at the Rambam Medical Center in Israel, the juice of
the pomegranate was found to slow down cholesterol oxidation by almost
half. That is the 'bad' cholesterol which leaves the fatty deposits
which narrow the arteries and lead to heart disease.
Another study discovered that pomegranate extract may prevent joint
damage linked to rheumatoid arthritis. Earlier reports suggest that
pomegranate extract may block the action of enzymes that damage
cartilage in osteoarthritis.
You can harness all that antioxidant power any time of year with
Wonderful Pomegranate Liquid Fruit Supplement, SoftGel Fruit Capsules
and Fruit Supplement Bars from PowerFruits (www.powerfruits.co.uk).
The PowerFruits pomegranate bars, liquid supplement and capsules are
around four times higher in antioxidants than normal fruit juice
concentrates, thanks to the fact that they're made from the whole
fruit, not just the juice.
The Wonderful Pomegranate Liquid Food Supplement contains 180mg of
anthocyanins, 125mg ellagic acid and 70mg punicalagins per serving.
Meanwhile each Wonderful Pomegranate SoftGel Fruit Capsule contains
80mg anthocyanins and 50mg ellagic acid.
Wonderful Pomegranate Fruit Supplement Bars, on the other hand, are a
delicious way to get two of your daily fruit and veg portions under
your belt, not to mention 250mg of anthocyanins and 117mg ellagic acid,
plus 46 percent of your daily vitamin C requirement and 12 percent of
your daily fibre intake.
Wonderful Pomegranate Liquid Fruit Supplement: £26.99 (60 servings)
Wonderful Pomegranate SoftGel Fruit Capsules: £24.99 for 60
Wonderful Pomegranate Fruit Supplement 25g Bars: £34.99 for 30
The Powerfruit range is available via www.powerfruits.co.uk
Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have
This is a classy large-format volume by Jane Price. It’s one of the
Kitchen Classics series from Murdoch Books and if this isn’t a classic
yet it soon will be. The photography by Jared Fowler is first-rate and
helps to give the book a sumptuous feel.
We all want or need to throw a party from time to time but it’s
difficult to be inspired beyond sausage rolls, cold pizza and pasta
salad. Nothing wrong with the aforementioned but you don’t want a
reputation for tired and uninteresting food. Your guests will
appreciate a scrumptious spread that looks like you have taken a bit of
trouble... although in truth the preparation would have been easy.
The chapter headings will give you a few ideas before you even look at
the recipes. They include Cocktail Hour, Barbecue Buffet, Tapas to
Meze, and Desserts. All the recipes can be mixed and matched so you
don’t need to stick slavishly to the proposed menus. There are some
traditional dishes but also plenty that are new and different.
Let’s take a closer look at just one section. Simply Japanese has 28
delicious recipes that look authentic, exciting, light and fresh. These
dishes would be ideal summer party fare if you are looking to impress.
The preparation is simple and with very little practice you’ll have a
stunning table groaning with exotic delights.
One of the easiest recipes from the Japanese chapter is Tonkatsu. It’s
pork in breadcrumbs fried and served with a traditional sauce. The
suggested presentation is Zen and unfussy and it’s a dish that takes no
time to cook. You’ll love that when you are also trying to prepare
numerous other tempting morsels.
Desserts are rather overlooked at parties. It’s often just a rich fruit
cake in the guise of a birthday or Christmas cake, or trifle. There are
34 recipes here that will encourage you to have a go at something a bit
more adventurous. There is a good selection of sweets that are lovely
to look at but also a bit trendy. The Sorbet Balls will be a real
winner and have the advantage of being prepared well in advance. They
are, as you would expect, balls of sorbet but with a cracking coating
of dark chocolate.
Party Time is an impressive book and great value for money. It’s full
of ideas for stress-free entertaining that will allow you to enjoy the
celebrations as much as your guests. That’s got to be a good thing!
Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have
Author: Jane Price
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £ 12.99
ISBN 978-1921259111
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Before I go into a detailed review of Vegetarian Cooking – A
Commonsense Guide I should tell you that this has got to be the most
user-friendly volume that has crossed this writer’s desk (OK, so it’s a
kitchen worktop on legs!) in ages. It’s a chunky ring-bound book that
really opens and stays open. One recipe and a great photo on each page.
What more can a working hands-on cook ask for?
What this cook can ask for is a selection of vegetarian recipes that
live up to the expectations raised by the book’s general presentation.
They do, and there is also an abundance of information, not only about
vegetarian cooking but about achieving a balanced diet.
You don’t have to be a card-carrying vegetarian to make good use of
this book. This is just good food that doesn’t include meat. It isn’t a
vegan cookbook although there are plenty of recipes that would be
suitable for a vegan diet. There is so much here that is rich and
decadent that you won’t feel you are making any sacrifices by following
the vegetarian path.
This book has recipes to suit all skill levels but I couldn’t find
anything that would make even a beginner over-anxious. The choice of
ingredient combinations is what makes these dishes work, rather than
complicated cooking techniques. The recipes have been tested to
destruction by those nice people at Murdoch so you know they will work.
And so to the recipes! There are lots here that are lip-smacking
delicious. Chinese Broccoli with Ginger, Lime and Peanuts is from the
Noodles and Stir-Fries chapter and it couldn’t be easier. Phad Thai
will be familiar to many of you and there is a good recipe here, but
the star for me is Rice Noodles with Ginger and Sweet Chilli
Vegetables. It’s spicy and exotic but quick to prepare.
About now you’ll be thinking of warming winter casseroles (you have
probably been doing that since August). There is a whole section
devoted to Casseroles, Curries and Bakes. These are robust and
comforting dishes that will satisfy the heartiest of eaters. Lentil
Bhuja Casserole is a flavourful dish of lentil “meatballs” and a rich
Indian-inspired creamy sauce. It’s a one-pot meal so all you’ll need is
some Naan bread on the side.
This isn’t an over-worthy tome to encourage self-denial. This is a
recipe book for real people who like luscious puds with sugar and
CREAM! Yes, you heard right! Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
isn’t a diet book, it’s all about good food and sensible eating, so
tuck into some of these desserts... from time to time. How about
Banana Fritters with Coconut Batter? Baked Almond and Marzipan
Peaches would be a pretty and tasty end to a smart dinner for friends.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide is a gem of a book that will
be appreciated by anyone who loves cooking and good food... it just
happens to be vegetarian.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Author: Murdoch Books
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1741961232
The Golden Book of Chocolate
This has got to be the gift book of the year. It has impact in both size and quality of presentation. It’s sumptuous
with gilt-edged pages reminiscent of a family bible. Those nice people
at Apple Press informed me that this volume came with a gold belly
jacket. I was pleased... er,um, but what was that? It’s a lovely dust
jacket that nicely wraps the ample midriff of this magnificent volume.
That’s the exterior oooohs and aaahs out of the way. Unless you are
buying this book only to put something sparkly on your bookshelf,
you’ll want to know about all that’s inside. The photography by Alan
Benson is a treat. You can imagine piling on the calories by just
looking at all these sweet delights.
The introduction is fascinating and pertinent. It considers not only
the history of the Swiss Nestlé, Lindt and Mr. Tobler (yes, the
man who invented Toblerone) but also our own Green and Blacks who
earned the UK’s first Fair Trade Mark for its Maya Gold chocolate.
There are over 300 recipes here so it’s safe to say that there is
something for everyone. There are Candies and Cookies, Puddings and
Pies but also Savoury Dishes that might come as a bit of a surprise.
The recipes are easy to follow and offer lots of choice for home cooks
of every level of skill and confidence.
One of the simplest recipes is Coffee Granita with Cream and Chocolate.
It’s one of those perfect make-ahead desserts that are ideal for meals
with friends. Served in shot glasses or small tumblers, it makes a
sophisticated end to an evening. You only need to be slightly more
adventurous to manage Milk Chocolate and Vanilla Semifreddo, which is a
two-layer frozen pud in white and beige.
The Drinks chapter has a lot more than the predictable cocoa. Brown Cow
has white rum, crème de menthe and crème de cacao. Served
in an elegant stemmed glass, this would be a warming, rich cocktail for
a winter party, a liquid version of a very adult after-dinner mint.
The Golden Book of Chocolate can only be described as special. It oozes
luxury and it’s bound to make an impression with anyone lucky enough to
receive a copy. Lovely!
The Golden Book of Chocolate
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-267-6
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
This is a unique perspective from a west London lad who takes a voyage
of discovery, a voyage to discover heritage, roots, amazing differences
and surprising commonality. Sanjeev Bhaskar has straddled both British
and Indian societies with their many complexities and contradictions.
Sanjeev had a childhood to which so many of us can relate. Home was a
maisonette above a laundrette and under the Heathrow flight path. I can
still remember the distinctive aroma of the paraffin stove that was the
“heater of choice” for his family and so many others in the 1960s. Not
everything was cold, grey and gloomy – the fish and chip shop was just
next door!
The long family holidays spent in New Delhi seemed to the young Sanjeev
to be a catalogue of discomfort, with intermittent water supply and
mosquitoes that had a penchant for English take-away. Telephones were
rare and air conditioning wasn’t an option, but how times have changed
- twenty years later India is a world leader in biotechnology and
pharmaceutical research, it has the world’s largest radio telescope and
is at last taking its place in the international arena in so many other
areas. India still manages to hold to its traditions, a task that would
seem impossible to maintain under the onslaught of technology and
modernity.
Sanjeev is famed for his comedic portrayal of Indians in the UK and for
hosting Delhi Belly, a food travelogue with restaurateur Reza Mahammad.
You would expect him to write a light and witty book, and India is very
much that. It’s also filled with honest and sometimes painful
observation. There is a story of tragedy here that also speaks of
strength, forgiveness and hope for the future.
On a humorous note our hero is invited to the birthday party of His
Royal Highness Rajeshwar Saramad-i-Rajha-i-Hindustan Mahararjadhiraja
Maharajah Shri GAJ SINGHJI II Sahib Bahadur Singh. Sanjeev wonders
“Gosh, what do we sing when we get to ‘Happy Birthday dear....?’ He had
no need to worry as it was “Happy Birthday dear Bapji” and the dear man
even handed Sanjeev a slice of his cake.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent is a book
that will take you through the whole spectrum of emotion but it’s
equally a book that will be thoroughly enjoyed by those of us who love
India in all its myriad facets.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
Author: Sanjeev Bhaskar
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-0-00-724739-4
The Other Side of the
Bar ...
or One Bar, Two Buses, Six Coffees and a Funeral
Don’t we all just love it? The thought of a nice little
bar in France,
open from early morning, evoking visions of rustic charm, the smoke of
half-a-dozen Gaulloises (not any more!) and some animated exchanges
over the morning’s St Tropez Daily Worker? At first glance it’s a dream
but the reality is somewhat different. Those bars that open early are
serving coffee and often all kinds of strong spirits, by staff who have
been on their feet since 6am.
All of you who have travelled to or through France might have noticed
those PMU signs over little bars. That means it’s a bookies as well as
a bar. What a combination! You can drown your sorrows after losing your
shirt, without moving from your vinyl-covered banquette!
If you want to see a real French bar then seek out a PMU. Don’t go to
the smart touristy cafes (you can always spot the English, they are the
only ones drinking large milky coffee in the afternoon), but try the
local bar of choice, stand at the bar and order a café or a
noisette, which is a small black coffee with a dash of milk.
The distinguishing feature of a PMU is the TV broadcasting non-stop
horse racing and other bettable sports. The addition of the gambling
side of the business contributes a lot to the bar’s finances. The men
can keep an eye on sports and the ladies can buy a Lotto ticket. Most
linger for a coffee or a small glass of something and that gives the
bar the air of a private social club.
I can’t understand the interest in betting but I’m there to
people-watch. There’s often a little old man in a shabby black suit
sitting in the corner showing no interest in the proceedings. He
doesn’t watch the TV. He doesn’t join the general conversation but the
patron will serve an unending supply of coffee that seems to be
unordered and to go unpaid for. He must be a relation... or the Mayor!
My friend Stephanie had a bar in a small village in the north of
France. The doors opened very early in the morning to provide small
strong coffees to the mine workers who were waiting for the bus to take
them to the pit. The miners would consume a line of waiting coffees in
just a couple of gulps. No words were exchanged and the bill would be
paid every other week.
Stephanie’s bar was conveniently the terminus for two bus routes so
there would be a guaranteed clientele of at least the bus drivers.
Passengers would congregate in the bar for a coffee or a glass of red
before taking the bus to the nearby town. The hospital was in that same
nearby town and treated the ex-miners who had contracted pneumoconiosis
(black lung disease) or emphysema. The terrible legacy of mining is the
breathing problems from working in that dark dusty environment. Men
would spend years suffering ill-health before passing away, like
generations of miners before them.
The days when there was a funeral were incredibly difficult for my
friend. She would have known the dearly departed very well. She would
have served him his morning coffee when he was still able to work. She
would have made sure he had a nice glass of something warming while he
waited for the bus to take him to the hospital, and now she had to
juggle the duties of both bar keeper and mourner at the time of the
poor man’s funeral. If the circumstances had not been so tragic, the
sight of my friend sprinting in full black regalia from graveside to
bar would have been comical. But it was her last duty to the mourned to
provide refreshments for the funeral guests. The proceedings could last
many hours, miners being shift-workers, with each of the deceased’s
colleagues wanting to pay his last respects.
We suppose that life in a French bar would be romantic and convivial.
Most bars rely on a few regular clients but even in tourist areas trade
can be unpredictable. The early morning coffee is still popular, and
warm summer evenings encourage people to stay late. It’s long hours of
work and there isn’t much time to be convivial.
I am glad that someone looks after the bar, but me, I don’t envy them.
I am right behind the people behind the bar!
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"The
biggest seller is cookbooks and second is diet books - how not to eat what
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Andy Rooney
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