Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel - London

It’s the location of The Grafton that is part of its appeal. Many hotels boast “good transport links” but The Grafton could hardly have a better position. Some guests at the hotel might be fortunate enough to have a suite with a view over an iconic London Underground station. Warren Street tube is right next door and there is a veritable fleet of red buses on the doorstep to enable the tourist to travel like a local.

The Grafton is close to the theatres of the West End, as well as museums, the vibrant Camden Market and thousands of shops for clothes, shoes and every other element of sartorial elegance. This neighbourhood of London offers a base from which to explore near and far.

The Grafton has the ambiance of a small boutique hotel even though it has 330 rooms and suites. It’s been sympathetically refurbished to retain many of the original features of the oldest part of the hotel, that dates back to the start of the 20th century. It won’t take the visitor long to notice the ornate ceiling mouldings, the occasional pillar and a striking staircase in the lobby. There are still the dark wood and leaded glass hall doors on the upper floors, as well as some stained glass.

The owners have not been content to just freshen the paint. They have made a striking design statement with lavish use of tasteful Asian art in all its guises. One is welcomed by a couple of black woolly llamas with magnificent golden heads. The dining room has a wall swimming with gold and silver fish, and every hallway has frames filled with jewellery and carvings. There is a lot of Asian objets d’art but its display is subtle.

The Grafton is a 4-star hotel that is full of amenity. It appeals to business travellers – each room has a practical array of sockets and even provision of 110 volts for US appliances. There is a well-equipped business centre with computers and printers for those travelling light. There are 14 meeting rooms for groups of varying sizes and demands, and this is an ideal hotel for conferences and events, able to accommodate up to 110 people.

The Aston Bar and Restaurant was our wintery evening refuge and it’s impressive with the largest pewter (or is it zinc?) bar in London. The counter is original and tactile and reminds you why people turn to drink. It’s an event just to pull up a high stool and lean on that silver-grey metal and sip a signature Martini. Be transported back to the buzzing 1930s when this spot was the HQ for the Aston Martin Club.

This is smart casual dining, in surroundings that encourage lingering. Mirrors, columns, vibrant upholstery, textured walls; high ceilings combine to create a light and airy dining room that reflects both contemporary and original opulence.

The restaurant offers a seasonal British-inspired menu. There are twists on old favourites but lots of unadulterated traditional fare that will appeal to local and tourist alike.

Kidderton Ash goat’s cheese panna cotta, with apple and walnut salad and beetroot dressing was my guest’s choice of starter. A delightful presentation of creamy mild and slightly tangy cheese complemented by that beetroot dressing which gave both colour and sweetness. It seems to be the ingredient of the moment and finds its way into both savoury and sweet preparations in some of the best restaurants just now.

Roast butternut squash, Jerusalem artichoke and red pepper salad, with chestnuts, toasted pumpkin seeds and a honey dressing was my light starter. The squash and artichoke were both tender and flavoursome and it’s good to see Jerusalem artichokes showcasing in something other than soup. Well-balanced dressing and crunch from nuts make this a must-try.

My guest is a man who is developing a taste for offal. It’s becoming more popular in restaurants as prices of regular meat cuts increase, and we are driven to at least sample some of those almost-forgotten frugal dishes of yesteryear. Grilled calves liver with thyme and onion purée, mashed potatoes, and grilled back bacon was my guest’s choice and it honestly was delicious. I am not often drawn to liver but calves liver doesn’t have any of the oft off-putting pungency of other livers from older and more mature animals. This was a hearty old-fashioned dish and a must-try for those who want to taste liver for the first time. If you eat meat then surely you will agree that we should be eating and enjoying every cut from nose to tail.

I don’t usually choose steak but this was a special Rib-eye steak (aged for 28 days) from Northern Ireland, served with grilled vine tomatoes, chips and peppercorn sauce. A simple piece of meat with unfussy garnish is comfort food and a treat. That hanging does develop flavour and the meat was meltingly tender. The chips were chunky and just the sort to eat sans cutlery.

Baked thin apple tart and toffee sauce was the flaky, light and deliciously decadent dessert. One must always be drawn to a pud that requires 20 minutes’ notice. Every individual tart is cooked to order and these are moreish. It’s that classic combination of hot fruit and cold ice cream that adds to the pleasure; and remember that The Grafton does have a Gym!

Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel is full of character and plenty of facilities. The location makes this popular lodgings for family fun as well as business. The newly refurbished rooms are comfortable with a very individual charm that one would not expect from a chain hotel. There are plenty of restaurants in the area but The Aston can face that competition with confidence.

Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel
130 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 5AY
Phone: +44 (0) 20 7388 4131
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7387 7394
resgraf@radisson.com
Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel here

Bubbleology - Soho

I have long heard of bubble tea, and have read the descriptions and seen the pictures, but it had been an exotic mystery ... until now.

Bubble tea is the name for a ‘pearl’ tea drink with milk or fruit juice that originated in tea shops in Taichung, Taiwan, during the 1980s. There are plenty of recipes, and more are added all the time. They mostly contain a green, white, black or even red tea base mixed with fruit syrup or milk. The milky varieties can be served hot or cold.

The aforementioned pearls are called “boba” – small chewy balls made of tapioca starch. That might not sound too appetising but they add so much to the appeal of the drink. They are the reason for the iconic large-diameter straws. They have an agreeable chewy texture, very much like a wine gum. Those little spheres turn this preparation into a drinkable snack which is really quite sustaining. However, the "Bubble” element to the name doesn't actually refer to the tapioca pearls which rest at the bottom of the cup, but to the froth at the top of the tea which is created when the drink is shaken.

Bubble tea has swept Asia, the US and Canada and now it’s reached London. It’s available in Soho, its logical first unveiling in the capital. Bubbleology is a small café with hints of a chemist’s workshop with blackboards, intriguing potions and lab assistants who will take time away from their delicious mixings and minglings to serve visitors.

We tried several versions of both hot and cold bubble teas. The fruit teas were light and refreshing. Those black tapioca pearls added substance but there was more. In addition to the gummy chews there were other smaller, translucent balls suspended in the drink. These were capsules of fruity flavour that burst in the mouth. Thirst-quenching and summery.

The weather was cold so the hot milk teas were especially welcome. They truly were piping hot and with those pearls this became more of a lunch than elevenses. The Taro milk tea was mild and comforting and just the drink to sit and sip while pawing over the morning papers. A drink over which to linger. The almond milk tea should be a Christmas special. It very much reminded me of marzipan. It’s sweet and warming and a great pick-me-up after hours of trotting around the January sales.

Bubbleology is a fun café that offers remarkable beverages, and some snacks that I’ll return to sample in the near future. Be warned – these drinks are addictive but be assured that they are healthy, so one of those no-guilt pleasures. Now, how rare is that?

Bubbleology
49 Rupert St, Soho, London W1D 7PF
Phone: 020 7494 4231
Visit Bubbleology here

The Yeatman Hotel and the first couple of Port

The Yeatman doesn’t sound, to the ill-informed, a particularly Portuguese name for a hotel. One would more readily expect a name like “Henry the Navigator Inn” or “The Porto Paradise”. Do some homework and you’ll find that The Yeatman is steeped in Portuguese history that has drifted through half-a-dozen or so generations of transplanted British. That’s a marvel when many folks these days consider themselves aristocrats if they can trace their family all the way back to their father. Portugal is a country that has long had these strong British connections.

Natasha and her husband Adrian have been described as the ‘first couple of Port’. That might sound an extravagant monica but it truly sums up the regard in which these two are held. She is the eldest daughter of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman’s chairman, Alistair Robertson, who inherited the business in 1966 following the death of Dick Yeatman, his uncle. Natasha is the seventh generation of the Taylor Fladgate and Yeatman dynasty and is the head blender for the Taylor Fladgate Partnership. Founded in 1692, Taylor, Fladgate and Yeatman is one of the oldest port wine houses, and one of the largest. It owns the brands of Fonseca, Taylor, and Croft.

Adrian met his wife in 1982 and joined the family firm in 1994. This was his third career, being first an officer in The 1st Queen’s Dragoon Guards. He later worked in the banking industry and in 1994 he and Natasha moved to Portugal full-time, where he assumed responsibility for Taylor’s Port and Fonseca Port in the UK and USA arenas. In 2000, he formally took on the role of Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca Port Group. Adrian is a keen sportsman and has represented Great Britain at bobsledding – one can picture him scudding down the Douro Valley through the vines.

In 2010, The Yeatman Hotel was finally launched. It’s an outstanding luxury wine hotel and has been Adrian’s project for over 5 years. It has evidently involved the whole family, as Natasha’s mum had much to do with the interior decoration and she has done a magnificent job.

One might expect this couple to be stiff and unapproachable. They are well used to the company of kings, politicians, notables from the world over. Adrian and Natasha both come from good “stock” but they are natural, friendly and put their guests at ease. They are passionately dedicated to showcasing quality hospitality in all its guises, and their staff have the same enthusiasm. Everyone is unobtrusively attentive and knowledgeable about the hotel, food and wine – this is, after all, a wine hotel.

The Yeatman is full of surprises. One approaches a hotel that gives the impression of a contemporary European bungalow. Step inside and the perception changes. A huge reception area with imposing staircase, pillars and statue of Bacchus greet the travel-weary. This striking lad must be an image of the god as a youngster: most other representations present him as a well-padded chap with hints of Santa. This “David”-like figure matches the elegance of his new home.

The lifts pay homage to the Douro with images covering all sides with a 360-degree panorama. Another elevator takes younger visitors to the bespoke Kid's Club. That one gives one the impression of being lifted in a hot-air balloon. There is great humour in this hotel that could have been so dry, worthy, academic and remote, the preserve of the “old school”. The Yeatman will be appreciated by all those with a taste for the finer things of life but it has wide appeal. Older folks will enjoy the traditional luxury, couples can indulge in some pampering, and families can take advantage of the unbeatable location. It’s truly a hotel for all seasons.

The Yeatman is built on the sloping hillside opposite Porto city, in Vila Nova de Gaia (easy access across the bridge). It’s constructed with terraces replicating the distinctive vineyards of the Douro Valley an hour’s drive away. The Yeatman flatters and harmonizes with the landscape. This cascading design allows every room to take advantage of the terracotta-roofed cityscape across the river. The sun sets and the view changes to give a romantic ambiance to the private balconies.

The public spaces act as a gallery for paintings and artwork reflecting the history of the region and the country in general, all impeccably displayed. There is a collection of roosters (the iconic symbol of Portugal) painted and embellished by students. Maps, watercolours, sculpture, and photography – it’s all found a home at the Yeatman.

There is so much here that gives a nod to wine, its production and consumption. The suites are named after wines, the walls are hung with wine-related pictures, and every room is sponsored by a producer. The 67 wine companies each take a turn hosting a Thursday evening wine-tasting dinner, which is very reasonably priced and popular with locals and visitors alike.

The 82 rooms are predictably well-appointed. Each one is different with individually-chosen soft furnishings, and books carefully selected for the edification and entertainment of guests. There will likely be a copy of Charles Metcalf’s Wines of Portugal and also a slim volume entitled 1066 and All That. At first glance that might seem a rather random literary inclusion but take a look at the cover: one of the authors is a Yeatman, and a relative of Natasha. This book continues the tone of the hotel in general – a mix of contemporary and classic features, of whimsy and substance.

Adrian had sustainability at the forefront of this new build. Solar panels are used for heating water, and photovoltaic cells generate electricity to reduce consumption of the regular mains power. Low-energy lighting is installed throughout the building and rainwater is collected and stored for flushing loos and sprinkling the garden. A reverse-osmosis system converts tap water into purified drinking water, so the hotel is self-sufficient without the need to buy bottled ‘eau-not-so-naturelle’ with all its baggage of transport miles, processing and packaging.

This is the Yeatman so their full wine list is as thick as a bible and features around 800 Portuguese wines and 80 international wines. Their cellar is open for inspection for a couple of hours each day with a display of 25,000 or so bottles, many of which are unique and will be sought by the enthusiast. The racks are arranged geographically with some New World vintages in the corner at the back for those with no soul who would actually want a cheeky little Californian rosé when visiting this land of such memorable local wines.

Along with fine wine goes fine dining. Chef Ricardo Costa is one of the leaders of a new generation of culinary innovators in Portugal, recently winning a Michelin star for The Yeatman. He attended the School of Hospitality and Tourism of Coimbra where he honed his technical skills and fed his passion for the artistry of food. He has graced the kitchens of several hotels and restaurants in mainland Portugal, Madeira, Spain and England before settling at the Yeatman.

It’s obvious that any chef would want to be at the helm of a kitchen in his home land, but I have the sense that Ricardo must be particularly pleased that his gastronomic ship is newly launched and has the most sophisticated, not to mention spacious, kitchen of any hotel. The owners have devoted an extraordinary amount of space to cooking. There are walk-in fridges aplenty and a specialist station for almost every course or function. There is even a space devoted to room service, and a separate kitchen just for breakfast.

Ricardo offers dishes that are unmistakably special but he clings to the essence of Portuguese cuisine, tempting with flavours of traditional ingredients prepared and presented with delicious flair. His food entices and intrigues before calming and charming the diner. This is skilled cooking that, although cheffy, never forgets its origins. This is serious food that contrives to amuse but the bottom line is, most importantly, it tastes great.

We dined on shrimps and mackerel as starters. The Yeatman’s proximity to the Atlantic is evident in a menu with so many fresh seafood dishes. Lots here for the committed carnivore, though. The veal was blushing and tender in its pastry crust and the lamb chops should be a signature dish. The desserts were beautiful, and the vanilla ice cream, figs and diced sweet beetroot was a triumph. Do try the local cheese platter, and you might consider a glass of port to go along with that – I’m sure they’ll find one somewhere. The menu changes to offer guests the seasonal best from the market but be assured that Chef Ricardo will transform those ingredients into dishes with that unmistakable Michelin magic.

Smoking is not allowed in the public areas of The Yeatman but there is a haven for those wanting a fragrant after-dinner cigar and that’s The Study. OK, so it’s a change from the Victorian tradition of ladies retiring and leaving the gentlemen at table passing the port and puffing, but both ladies and gents will delight in spending a little time in this book-bedecked idyll.

The Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa is just what you would expect of the Yeatman, offering a wide selection of wellbeing and relaxation facilities including a Roman bath, tepidarium, hammam, shower experience and sauna. Space to sit and unwind, a dip in the pool and a treatment can all be yours. Keeping with the theme there is even a staircase fashioned from a wine barrel, and the walls have ancient and gnarled vines as objets-d’art. Treat your body and mind with such programmes as a Barrel Bath immersion, or a Merlot Wrap. They take advantage of natural ingredients from the vineyard with their antioxidant properties, and many of the treatments can be enjoyed by couples. The lounging area will have you nodding off over that latest paperback or enjoying that celebrated panoramic view across the river to the city. A break at this hotel and spa will offer a romantic retreat and with such affordable luxury you could become regulars.

Adrian says he wants The Yeatman to be the foremost destination for Portuguese wine, and an ambassador for Porto and Portugal in general. I would say he has already succeeded and it’s still early days. It’s a platform of viticultural and culinary excellence with some really comfy beds.

Spa Treatments available:

Luxury Moment for Two

• Champagne Afternoon Tea
• Divine Duo Massage
• Gift
• Tea
  

Perfect Moment for Two

• Divine Duo
• Cranial Massage
• Gift
• Tea

5 Senses Moments for Two

• Grape Bath
• Crushed Cabernet Scrub
• Gift
• Tea

The property is a member of Relais & Chateaux.

The Yeatman Hotel
Rua do Choufelo
4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Phone: +351 22 013 3100
Fax: +351 22 013 3199
Visit The Yeatman here

The Wine and Food Lover’s Guide to Portugal

Charles Metcalfe and Kathryn McWhirter are a formidable team. I know of Charles from his numerous appearances on food-related shows like Good Food Live on the UKTV Food network. Kathryn has a wealth of experience as both a food and wine journalist and editor.

I had expected this book to be just a guide to Portuguese wine, but it’s much more than that. It is, in fact, just what the title says, a guide for lovers of both wine and food. It’s a sumptuous and chunky volume that I find most appealing. There is no verbal or graphic padding, this is just cover to cover information, lovely photographs, and charm.

This book works on two levels. First, as a guide for those who are lucky enough to take a trip to Portugal and second, for the rest of us who want to know more about the country and its food and wine. I should say that this book will very likely encourage you to go to Portugal even if you hadn’t considered it before.

Kathryn and Charles lead us around every region of Portugal, introducing us to wineries, directing us to good restaurants, pointing out places of interest along the way, and escorting us to the most comfy places to spend the night. You’ll feel confident that you’re getting the most out of your visit.

Let’s take Douro as just one example. It’s a region in North East Portugal. There’s a large-scale map with places of food- and wine-related interest and accommodation clearly marked. Next it’s pages and pages of information about wine. Remember we are just looking at the wine of this small region and there is a handy list of wines to watch out for. The next section covers food and where to buy it, either in a restaurant (there is a comprehensive list) or at a market, deli or specialist food shop.

You won’t want to be eating and drinking all the time, so take notice of the Exploring Douro pages that are full of ideas to pass the time. Boat trips, train rides, spectacular views and even local festivals are all listed, and after a long day you’ll pick your guest house from the dozens reviewed, relax with a glass of Port and make plans for tomorrow.

Every element of this book had been meticulously researched by people who have an obvious love of Portugal, its wines and its people. It’s informative, fascinating and a thoroughly gorgeous book. I hope that Charles Metcalfe and Kathryn McWhirter will consider writing similar guides for other wine-producing countries.

The Wine and Food Lover’s Guide to Portugal
Authors: Charles Metcalfe and Kathryn McWhirter (www.innhousepublishing.com)
Published by: Inn House Publishing
Price: £16.95
ISBN 978-0-9557069-0-5

Portugal – A world of flavours

It’s true that many British tourists are regulars on the beaches of the Algarve and they will say they love the country. Yes, they enjoy that little corner of this amazing land but far fewer visitors travel away from the resorts to discover the real personality of Portugal.

The Portuguese are the product of a complex melange of different civilizations during the past thousands of years. From prehistoric peoples to its Pre-Roman civilizations, contacts with the Phoenician-Carthaginian traders, the Roman annexation, the Germanic conquest, later the Visigoths, all added to the tapestry.

The Islamic Moors (mainly Berbers with some Arabs) from North Africa invaded the Iberian Peninsula in 711, destroying the Visigoth Kingdom. In 868, Count Vímara Peres reconquered the region between the rivers Minho and Douro, that area then being known as Portucale. In 1095 Portugal separated almost completely from the Kingdom of Galicia with which it had been combined. Its territory consisted mostly of mountains, wastelands and woods. By 1250 the Algarve, the southernmost region, was finally recaptured by Portugal from the Moors. In 1255 the capital was established in Lisbon where it remains. Portugal's geographic position in Europe has allowed its borders to remain stable for centuries, being unchanged by war or conquest since the 13th century.
 
Portugal is on the Atlantic edge of Europe. One has an uninterrupted view of America from the coast, or at least one would if it wasn’t for 3359 miles or 5405 kilometres (yes, I looked it up) of water between. It is therefore no surprise that Portugal was a world power during the "Age of Discovery”. It accumulated an empire with footholds in South America, Africa, and Asia. Its connections in these lands are reflected in its modern population as well as its food and culture. The Portuguese Empire was the first global empire in history, and also the longest-lived of the European colonial empires, spanning almost 600 years,

During the 15th and 16th centuries Portugal was a leading European power, ranking with England, France and its neighbour Spain. Portugal had its extensive colonial trading empire throughout the world backed by a powerful navy, but with the "Carnation Revolution" of 1974 (a bloodless left-wing military coup) broad democratic reforms were undertaken and Portugal granted independence to most of its Overseas Provinces (Províncias Ultramarinas).

In 1986 Portugal entered the European Economic Community and left the European Free Trade Association which had been founded by Portugal and its partners in 1960. The country joined the Euro in 1999. The Portuguese Empire ended de facto when Macau was returned to China, and East Timor was given independence, and many Portuguese returned from those newly established countries. The “retornados” now comprise a sizeable part of the Portuguese population.

That close association with the worldwide market and its cosmopolitan people have offered Portugal the opportunity to cultivate a unique and colourful cuisine taking advantage of its indigenous products as well as those from its colonies. Tomatoes and potatoes arrived from the New World and have become staples just as they are all over the rest of Europe. Pineapples were introduced to the Portuguese Islands of the Azores and coffee came from Africa via Brazil. But before that the Romans introduced onions, garlic, olives and grapes, and the Moors planted rice, grew figs, citrus fruit and almonds.

The national dish is "bacalhau": dried, salted cod from the cold northern waters of the Atlantic. It has a distinctive flavour which can become addictive. It’s been a Portuguese favourite since the early 16th century, when their fishing boats reached Newfoundland. The catch was dried and salted to preserve it for the voyage back to Europe. There are as many recipes for this delicious fish as there are days in the year, and it’s rare to find a menu that does not feature at least one version.

The country is full of speciality seafood restaurants, many with extravagant counters of lobsters, shrimp, oysters, and crabs along with white fish such as hake. Octopus is popular and chefs turn this unpromising article into tender and flavourful preparations.

Typical of Porto is tripe and it’s a product that you will likely have avoided. It is not to everyone's taste, admittedly, but has been Porto's traditional dish since Henry the Navigator sent ships to conquer Ceuta in Morocco. The population of Porto sacrificed all their animals to provide the crew with meat. This left those internal organs and frilly bits for the good folks of Porto. They have been known as "tripeiros" or "tripe eaters" ever since.

Breakfast is traditionally just cup of coffee and some bread or a pastry. Every street seems to boast a collection of bakeries that will entice with miniature custard tarts and yolk-yellow baked goods. Hotels provide the usual international spread of cheese, pressed meats and fruit along with croissants, but give that a miss at least once during your stay and join the locals.

Lunch is a leisurely break, at least at weekends. Office workers often only take an hour but even they will take longer if they can arrange a business lunch lasting more than a couple of hours. It is served between noon and 3 o'clock, and dinner is generally served from 8 o'clock. There are usually three courses, often including soup, the most common of which is "caldo verde" made with potato, shredded cabbage (this can be found ready-prepared in open markets), and pieces of sausage.

Porto has given its name to that fortified wine much beloved of the English. It is enjoying a revival and is now presented as not only the perfect accompaniment to strong cheeses and sweet desserts but chilled as an aperitif. White port has been appreciated as a summer drink for many years and it has recently been joined by pink port which can be served as a long cocktail with tonic.

Portugal is a food-lover’s paradise. It boasts a vibrant traditional cuisine taking advantage of the freshest of local produce from both land and sea. Wine aficionados will want to spend time in the Douro Valley where they can taste some of the best wine that the region has to offer. Porto’s restaurants will amaze with their artfully presented dishes and at prices that will assure your return.

For more information on all the regions of Portugal visit
For more information on Porto visit

On the Menu

If you are regular reader, as I am sure you are, then you will know that my book reviews usually start with a review of, well, the book; but on this occasion I feel I should mention the publisher right up front.

Face Publications is a small company that specialises in chef cookbooks. This is the third of theirs I have reviewed and they are attractive and imaginative books that would do any author proud. They present books that are tactile, attractive and definitely gift quality. They have recently achieved the following successes:

Winner, ‘Best UK Chef Book’, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Paris;
Silver Medal, World’s Best Chef Book’, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Paris;
Winner, ‘Book Design’, D&AD, London;
Merit ‘Book and Editorial Design’, The Art Directors Club, New York;
Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards, Adelaide.

Now that’s not too shabby!

On the Menu is a stylish black-covered volume of 74 recipes with step-by-step instructions. It’s a chef-penned book and that author is Michelin-starred James Mackenzie, the proprietor and head chef of the Pipe and Glass Inn near Beverley, Yorkshire, which he and his wife Kate have owned since 2006.

James and Kate have transformed the 17th century inn into a destination restaurant. In their first year the Pipe and Glass Inn won the Yorkshire Life "Dining Pub of the Year" Award and in 2007 won the same publication's "Restaurant Of The Year" title. Further recognition came for the Mackenzies in 2008, being named as the "Best Newcomer" in The Northern Hospitality Awards. In January 2010 the Pipe and Glass Inn was awarded a Michelin Star. It is one of only ten pubs in the UK ever to achieve such a respected and internationally recognised status.

So the chef seems a good sort and the cover is impressive, but what of the inside of the book? The photography by Jason Lowe maintains the quality. The choice of text style, hand script and graphics makes a bold statement. But it’s the recipes that will keep you returning to this book – a sumptuous collection of real British fare that reminds us that we have so much of which to be proud in the culinary arena.

My advice is to find yourself a good butcher. James uses flavourful cuts of meat to make some of his most memorable dishes. The Beef with Suet Pudding is rustic and hearty as well as economic. I love suet pastry and puddings: these will be a revelation to a younger generation, who might well be strangers to this traditional food.

Beer-braised Oxtails with Deep-fried Oyster Fritters is old fashioned food using the classic combination of beef and oysters. In Victorian times the shellfish was the cheap and cheerful filler in beef pies, the meat being the costly element. Oxtails offer the very essence of bovine flavour and they have a melting and silky texture when well cooked.

Smoked Haddock Risotto is delicious and takes advantage of both the regular Arborio rice as well as the robust pearl barley. The fish and grains are topped with a poached duck egg, that will break to bathe the dish in yolky richness. This would make a delightful starter or main meal.

James has some marvellous desserts but to continue the British theme and to showcase Yorkshire in particular, the Rhubarb Trifle is the one to choose. Rhubarb from the north of England is famous and there were once even rhubarb trains that transported the fresh sticks to London and other cities.

Rhubarb is enjoying a well-deserved revival and this recipe presents it at its blushing best. The garnish of Parkin crumbs adds another Yorkshire twist. This is a traditional dark spice cake that is even better to eat the day after its baked. James gives the recipe and you could of course make just the Parkin as a moreish family cake when rhubarb isn’t in season.

On The Menu is outstanding. The recipes are sensible and you will indeed be driven to make them. That surely should be the test of a good cookbook. It will likely spend its life on the kitchen table. Your kids will leaf through this just as James turned the pages of his mum’s cookbooks. Your family and friends will love these dishes that are unfussy but have that ooohh-aaahh factor that is so often missing in chef-authored books. This is sure to become a prizewinner.

Cookbook review: On The Menu
Author: James Mackenzie
Published by: Face Publications
Price: £30.00
ISBN-10: 0955893038
ISBN-13: 978-0955893032

Love Food

Well, I guess there are a couple of interpretations of the title, Love Food. That could be food to make for those you love; it could be recipes for those who love to eat food. Indeed this book offers dishes that fit the bill on both counts.

Love Food is written by Tina Bester who runs a restaurant in South Africa. She evidently appreciates comfort food, retro dishes, and that her readers, however passionate about cooking, don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen just preparing breakfast. These dishes are practical and delicious.

Talking of breakfast, Creamy Oats with Fried Banana and Cinnamon Sugar has my vote for a sweet start to a cold winter day. A great recipe to make for a crowd as the sugar can be made in advance and the bananas fried while the cereal cooks.

Another good breakfast for a group is Potato and Bacon Frittatas, a savoury alternative to the above oats although if your guests are like mine they will want both. The frittatas are individual crustless potato quiches and the majority of the cooking can be done in advance. Just pour on the eggy mixture and start to bake 20 minutes before your friends are ready to eat them.

Smoorsnoek with Crusty Bread is in the Lunch chapter but this also would work as a substantial breakfast. Interesting name, and it’s a contemporary take on a popular South African staple made with snoek. OK, so it sounds like a small furry animal with a long nose living in the veldt but it is in fact a fish and those who don’t have access to it can use smoked mackerel. It’s that enticing combination of onion, fried potatoes and smoked fish. A one-pot meal with just some crusty bread on the side.

Chicken Paprika is a great recipe to stretch a single chicken to feed 8 people. It’s rich and flavourful and will make a complete meal with a little green salad. It’s a mild dish that will be a favourite with the whole family and it makes a change from just regular roast chicken. If you are in a hurry then you could use a pre-cooked rotisserie chicken from the butcher or supermarket.

Love Food isn’t just about sensible savouries. There are some delightful desserts including the, pardon the play on words, Turkish Delight Semifreddo. This is a frozen confection that needs no ice-cream maker. It’s a delicate pink-rippled dessert that would be an attractive end to any dinner party or posh lunch. Its hint of rose flavour adds an unmistakable air of the exotic.

Love Food is a gift-quality cookbook that would make an ideal Valentine’s present for the love of your life. Or buy for yourself and make an impression with your new-found skills: the recipes are simple but there is no need to broadcast that fact. Great value for money.

Cookbook review: Love Food
Author: Tina Bester
Published by: Pavilion – Anova Books
Price: £12.00
ISBN: 978-1-86205-943-6

Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5

The new and striking Terminal 5 at Heathrow has some of the best shops around as well some as some good restaurants. They range from the casual and humble sandwich bars to the refined dining venues such as Gordon Ramsay's restaurant which offers a classic dining experience as well as take-away meals for in-flight enjoyment. Yes, plenty of delicious food at the Terminal.

But what of those who are staying? Holidaymakers on the way out or on the way into the UK, and businessmen who need a well-equipped base with good transport connections to central London. Hilton Heathrow Airport Terminal 5 could well fit the bill for both workers and wanderers alike; the Hilton also offers easy access to the M4 and M25.

This particular Hilton isn’t at the terminal but it’s associated with it and just a short distance away. Shuttle buses provide transport every half hour or so for travellers. It’s a quiet location with plenty of parking. We only noticed one flight over the hotel: not sure if that has to do with the benefits of double glazing or advantageous flight paths but we had an undisturbed rest. That is always welcome when one is travelling, and a necessity if one is expected to conduct business.

This Hilton offers 929 sq m of flexible conference space, specifically designed to cater for global conferences, business meetings and events for up to 1170 guests. The Fitness Centre by Precor® will appeal to many who have “enjoyed” a transatlantic flight, or you might simply relax and unwind in the luxury spa with sauna and steam room.

There is a business centre with the latest in audiovisual equipment, and also an Executive Lounge which offers light snacks and drinks from early morning till late night. Less formal that the two restaurants, it’s ideal for colleagues to catch up on the day’s projects or have breakfast while leafing through the newspapers.

It’s a new hotel and striking. The huge, imposing and galleried reception area reminds one more of The Guggenheim in New York with curved whiteness and sweeping stairs. A coffee bar provides a casual seating area for meeting and greeting but you will likely be more interested in the quiet comfort of your private quarters.

All suites and guest rooms are fitted and fixed with roomy beds, cool linen, covetable bath products, flat-screen TVs and all the luxury one would expect. Attractive muted colours and artwork reminding one that this is Greater London help to create a relaxing bolt-hole for the weary. Not really surprising, this is the Hilton.

Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail in one of the two stylish bars before having dinner at either of the restaurants at the Hilton. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is the finest of Indian fine dining and is the eponymous restaurant of Cyrus Todiwala, one of the UK's most celebrated chefs. This evening we chose The Gallery restaurant which is situated on the mezzanine floor and is truly a gallery over that aforementioned lofty reception.

The Gallery is a counterpoint to the exotic style of Mr Todiwala's. It’s a vision of teak-coloured wood and some rather delightful sofas strewn with cushions that will have you lingering over the British-inspired menu – plenty to entice even the most conservative of eaters. The guests are from every corner of the world but are mostly from the US, and those visitors enjoy the superbly cooked meats and fish that reflect the best that’s available in the UK.

We ordered a cold meat platter and a pork rillette platter. They were both generous boards of food to graze on whilst sipping a glass of chilled crisp white. The potted pork was chunkier than I would have expected from a rillette and that made the starter more substantial and more flavoursome. Rillette is more often a meat paste and seldom bears any resemblance to the original joint in either taste or texture. Executive Chef Paul Danabie presented a pork dish that had real porcine punch. The board of cold cuts showcased some British fare that was the equal of the meats from the Continent. A garnish of traditional yellow piccalilli and some grilled bread completed this spread.

My guest loves duck in all its guises so he chose from the Spit Roast section on the menu and ordered Gressingham duck, which was cooked to succulent pink but without being bloody. Yes, I have heard that some folks like their duck oozing red but I am not keen. This duck was deliciously done, and was accompanied by fondant potatoes with a crusty outside and a fluffy interior.

There are some Trolley Specials on the menu and these add theatre to your evening. They are dishes that will be tossed and tweaked in front of you before serving. I was looking for something warming and comforting, and lingered over the list of Casserole dishes. Lots here for those with hollow legs: Braised Lamb Shanks or Flank of Beef in Dorset Ale would fill those gaps, but I wanted light and healthy fare and I was drawn to the Casserole of Daily British Fish and Shellfish.

This should surely be a signature dish. Its classy presentation in an individual copper pot leads the diner to expect something rather good ...and this was. Chunks of delicately grilled salmon floated along with cod and mussels and prawns in a light broth. A side dish of steamed broccoli and new potatoes made this a sustaining yet guilt-free option.

Desserts here are traditional and sensible. If you only have a little room then go for the Cambridge Burnt Cream which is the English equivalent of the French crème brulée. Paul presents the cream in a wide shallow dish which allows for a greater ratio of crunchy caramel topping to smooth, sweet and silky cream. This is served with tangy lemon shortbread.

You will likely want some wine with or after your meal and there is a solid bistrot-style list of wines and spirits on offer. Lots by the glass but there is also a trolley which offers tasters from a selection of vintages so you can sample before settling on your favourite. I notice that they also have dessert wine by the glass, which is always an attractive proposition when one needs something sweet but dessert would be too much volume.

The new Hilton Terminal 5 is fresh, bright and well designed. It’s also cosy and tasty and that’s enough to assure the return of those looking for both comfort and amenity. There are lots of airport hotels but this Hilton is up there with the best.

Gallery restaurant

Seats:     190
Dress Code:     smart casual
Children are welcome in The Gallery when accompanied by an adult.

Open:
Everyday: 6:30-22:30

Business Centre

Hours of Operation
Monday     9:00-17:00
Tuesday     9:00-17:00
Wednesday     9:00-17:00
Thursday     9:00-17:00
Friday     9:00-17:00
High-speed wired and wireless internet access
Audio/visual equipment rental
Business phone service
Faxing, copying and scanning services
Video conferencing available

15 Meeting Rooms
Seating upto 1056
Largest room 8867 m2

350 Guest Rooms
3 Suites

London Hotel review:
Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5
Poyle Road,
Colnbrook SL3 0FF, United Kingdom
Phone +44 (0)1753 686860
Visit this Hilton here

The Great Book of Rhubarb

This is another one of those foods that crosses the divide between vegetable and fruit. We have that same complication with the tomato, which is technically a fruit but which is more often than not served as a savoury. Rhubarb is classified in the UK as a vegetable but in the US it’s a fruit.

OK, so it’s a vegetable that is mostly used as a sweet, although chefs are increasingly presenting it alongside meats and fish. It has only been common as a food in Europe for a couple of hundred years. It was originally imported from Russia as a medicinal root, with miraculous qualities to cure many an ill and to render the plain beautiful.

We, these days, have our focus on the striking long stems which, whatever the legal definition, are found amongst the fruit in supermarkets and greengrocers. They have long been prized as the main ingredient in crumbles, tarts and pies although the author Elaine Lemm offers us some delicious alternatives in this charming little book.

If you are a traditionalist then you are bound to enjoy Rhubarb and Custard Crumble Tart, a unique confection that looks as good as it tastes – a combination of contrasting flavours and textures. I have, I admit, only ever stewed rhubarb but this recipe has roasted rhubarb which is simple to prepare and has the advantage of a more intense flavour, a less mushy appearance than stewed, and a good pink colour.

The Great Book of Rhubarb is a must-have book for anyone growing rhubarb. The recipes are inspiring and range from the family-friendly to the cheffy and contemporary. I am rather taken with the prospect of some Rhubarb Schnapps!

Cookbook review: The Great Book of Rhubarb
Author: Elaine Lemm
Published by: Great Northern Books
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1905080-93-9

Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart

Perhaps we could say that this book is Divine by name and Divine by nature. The “nature” in question is that of Fairtrade chocolate.

Linda Collister, the author, has long been a supporter of fair trade and has compiled these recipes which specifically use Divine Fairtrade Chocolate. I guess you could use other brands of good quality chocolate but why not do something good for yourself and others. The Divine brand offers some of the best chocolate around and each bar you buy helps support farmers in Ghana. This isn’t a free hand-out. Those farmers work hard but get a fair price for their cocoa beans. A win-win partnership.

Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is a sumptuous volume in classy black and gold. The photography by Lisa Barber is excellent and the gold coloured text gives this book in general a very high-end feel. The pages are decorated with traditional West African Adinkra symbols which celebrate the relationship between Divine, the company, and Kuapa Kokoo, the farmers’ co-operative in Ghana.

However much you applaud the fair trade philosophy, you will buy this book for its truly delectable recipes. Well, where do I start? There are lots of traditional favourites like chocolate chip cookies but many have a bit of a twist. White Chocolate Cookies Studded with Cranberries are a treat and Lava Peanut Cookies sound downright intriguing, with Lava being an easy fudge icing added after baking. Looks like a great wet-afternoon project with the kids.

Many of the recipes are quite out of the ordinary. Balsamic and Chocolate Cake is egg- and dairy-free. Linda says this one works well with some mascarpone and ripe figs on the side. Sounds romantic, Italian and summery. Keeping to that same continental theme, Marbled Italian Cheesecake uses mascarpone instead of the usual cream cheese to give a lighter and silkier texture.

Divine not only offers us cake and cookies but ice-creams and savoury recipes as well. Bitter Orange Soufflés Glaces are quite easy to make and freeze, ready to be the grand finale of your next smart dinner for friends. Mexican Day of the Dead White Chocolate Mole doesn’t seem very cheery but it’s a delicious recipe of chicken with a tasty nutty sauce. Sounds like a strange combination but it works, trust me, and, no, this doesn’t taste like a chicken and Mars Bar casserole, the chocolate is there more for richness than flavour.

Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart has a thoughtful selection of both traditional and contemporary recipes. A great Christmas gift for any chocolate lover.

Cookbook review: Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Author: Linda Collister
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 9781906650414

The Silver Spoon Cookbook New Edition

The Silver Spoon Cookbook story has lasted for 60 years and it continues with this latest and largest edition. It still has a battery of over 2000 authentic Italian recipes but now they have been joined by 400 new photographs. The thing that doesn’t change is the quality of dishes.

It has great visual impact. There is no doubt about that. I have seen Italian cars that are smaller than this book. It’s a multi-tasking volume, taking the place of steps to reach high kitchen shelves, could block a reasonable-sized doorway, and can be used to balance against any food item of around 3kg.

There are many books around that are noteworthy for their ample proportions alone. Any publisher could offer enormous volumes of The Collected Works of... But this is rather different. The Silver Spoon could be retitled The Collected Works of Many Generations of Italian Cooks. The spine is big enough to take it and the title would be appropriate.

First published in 1950 in Italian, Il Cucchiaio d’argento, this is the most popular Italian cookbook. Strangely the name is derived from the English phrase to denote wealth and plenty... to be born with a silver spoon in one’s mouth. In this case it is used to note the rich culinary heritage described between the covers.
 
Il Cucchiaio d’argento has been in print for over 60 years. It has been updated, improved and expanded upon and now we have the new English language edition, which will introduce still more lovers of Italian food to this veritable bible of one of Europe’s best-loved cuisines.

It’s almost useless to get into my usual routine of describing particular recipes to my dear reader. If you can think of an Italian dish then it’s here. More remarkable are the dishes that you might not know by name but which you might have eaten in homes of Italian friends. Yes, there is a whole section devoted to menus by Italian celebrity chefs, but the book is prized by Italians for its traditional Italian food. There are also a few contemporary dishes included to reflect availability of new products and the impact of travel. Beef Wellington, Goulash, Kugelhopf and even Scones are all listed, which suggests that this is a cookbook of not only Italian food but food for Italians.

If you are looking for your favourite pasta sauce it’s here. Pizza in all its forms is offered. Desserts that have long graced the trolleys in Italian restaurants throughout the world are included. But you will be missing so much of what makes Italian food so celebrated if you stick to the standards. It’s the rustic and slow-cooked meats (Brasato alla Cipolle - Braised Beef with Onions), flavourful and stylish seafood dishes (Gamberi in Salsa Dolceforte - Prawns in Strong Sweet Sauce) and delicious desserts like Torta di Ricotta E Uvetta (Ricotta and Sultana tart) which are the unsung heroes.

The Silver Spoon is a masterwork and I can understand why those in the know wax so lyrical about it. The price is more of a shock than the size of the volume. It’s amazing at only £29.95 for 1400 pages and that does not include the lengthy index. This book is still given as a wedding present by Italians to Italians. It can have no finer recommendation than that.

Cookbook review: The Silver Spoon
Published by: Phaidon
Price: £29.95
ISBN-10: 0714862452
ISBN-13: 978-0714862453

1000 Places to See Before You Die

Travel – it’s like a drug. If you have never travelled then perhaps you can’t understand why anybody would. Home is cosy, safe and you speak the language. But many of us have had the pleasure of taking a trip, and that sparks something within.

I was 11 years old when I first left my home country. A school exchange trip offered me the privilege of staying with a family in Germany. The food was different but I did love the new tastes. I was introduced to Schnitzel and even wine. Yes, in those days children could also have a little wine and no, I didn’t grow up an alcoholic – but that’s an argument that can run and run.

We toured through vine-fringed valleys and along the Rhine. We visited quaint towns and museums and discovered that there was more to the world than just our small corner. As I grew older I wanted to explore and experience and (mostly) enjoy all the wide world had to offer. 1000 Places to See Before You Die presents a bit of inspiration for future travels.

This book will be the bedtime reading of choice for any would-be traveller. Its chapters are divided into eight regions which are then subdivided geographically. Plenty of essential information about transport as well as addresses for tourist boards. You’ll likely want to take advantage of excursions, so you’ll learn about the ones most suited to your interests.

A perfectly planned trip can be ruined by just going at the wrong time. Phrases like “you should have been here last week” or “you have just missed...” or even worse “we are closed for the season”. You will want to arrive just in time for that wine festival but perhaps you’ll be glad to miss the National Tripe Festival. Weather is always a consideration: Spring in Europe is always lovely; but an inch of snow in England can call a halt to even the best travel arrangements.

There is, unsurprisingly, a large entry for London in the England section. It offers a wealth of suggestions for must-dos and the top attractions. You likely will not manage all those listed but they do offer an overview and a cultural taster of the city. Take the opportunity to travel around the country to see that Green and Pleasant Land as well as English Country Gardens.

Every country mentioned is described in tempting detail. This is perhaps the book to buy should you be planning a world tour. Certainly you will want to read some in-depth guides to cover your chosen destinations, but the beauty of 1000 Places to See Before You Die is that it highlights, well, the highlights of each country. You will doubtless find your own treasures along the way and this book is just a volume of possibilities ...and dreams.

1000 Places to See Before You Die
Author: Patricia Schultz
Published by: Workman
Price: $19.95
ISBN 978-07611-5686-4

Rosemary Shrager’s Yorkshire Breakfasts

The combination of Rosemary Shrager and breakfast is just about unbeatable. She is a lady that glows with passion for food, garnished with great good humour and generosity. Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day and I have been known to graze for several hours on a copious spread of morning delights.

Yorkshire is celebrated for its well-laid tables at every meal, old-fashioned baked, fried, poached and grilled goods made with the best of ingredients and served in memorable quantities. Rosemary is an author made to write about this comforting subject. One can almost hear her rich warm laugh as she talks about the recipes. She encourages the reader to cook and enjoy these treats, often if they are the healthy platters and just a little less frequently if they are those packed with calories. After all it’s not what you eat that’s the problem it’s the exercise that you don’t take that causes difficulties.

The chapters start with The Full English. Yes we all know what constitutes the classic version and it is in my opinion the king of the cooked brekkie; but there are alternatives that are worthy of the accolade ‘Full’. How’s about Homemade Baked Beans with Crispy Bacon and Sautéed Potatoes? The beans can be frozen so it’s a convenient make-ahead breakfast for those weekends when you have a houseful of hungry guests. Leave out the bacon and you have a substantial vegetarian breakfast.

If you want to feel noble then Fresh Figs with Serrano Ham might well fit the bill, with a taste of the southern climes. It’s an almost instant start to your day but a great summer breakfast both for you and your guests, who are bound to be impressed with this classy plateful. Wait till you can get those luscious dark figs for best effect.

Rosemary has a chapter entitled Indulgence and I confess I turned to this one first. These are cracking recipes for rib-sticking fare that’s a bit out of the ordinary. Perhaps I should say that they are dishes that one might ordinarily enjoy later in the day but which are wonderful for breakfast particularly if you can persuade someone else to cook them for you.

Hands up who would not love Individual Yorkshire Puddings with Golden Syrup at 8am on a Sunday. Just as I thought – no hands showing. A good Yorkshire pud is light and airy and a delicious vehicle for a drizzle of Golden Syrup. It has to be Golden Syrup and it should be the one in the green and gold tin, you know the one. Yes, calories aplenty but you have got the whole day for hiking, or at least walking around the shopping mall.

One might not think of Fish and Chips and Mushy Peas as regular breakfast fare. I would have agreed with you till I had exactly that for breakfast in a hotel in Australia in the 1970’s. It works. We often have fish on breakfast menus and there are lots of potato dishes that are common morning offerings. Put those elements together and one has fish and chips.

I usually pick a favourite recipe from the cookbooks I review but I can honestly say that I would cook, eat and enjoy all of these breakfast recipes. The majority of the dishes do double or even treble duty as they work well not only for late-night fuelling but also for lunches. A brilliant book full of early-morning inspiration.

Cookbook review: Rosemary Shrager’s Yorkshire Breakfasts
Author: Rosemary Shrager
Publisher: Great Northern
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1905080-96-0

Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa
– Kirchberg, Austria

What do we think of when people mention Austria? I guess it will be a wealth of folksy images ranging from overhanging roofs, wooden balconies, to skiing and snow. All of the above are accurate visions of this country but there is still more. Austria isn’t just a winter wonderland for hardy sporting types; it’s a magnet for those who have an appreciation of the good things in life ...and all year round.

Our diverted flight (no, don’t even ask) took us to Munich and we passed through a corner of Germany and then through a particularly beautiful part of Austria en route to the Rosengarten, a unique spot which is a destination in its own right. This is a place that has already carved a reputation for quality of accommodation, spa facilities and, above all, food.

The person presiding over this culinary kingdom is Simon Taxacher who has achieved so much. His style is undoubtedly contemporary but that is only one element that sets him apart from the majority of chefs, not only in Austria but throughout the world. It’s his flair, passion and technical skill combined with sympathy for his ingredients that allows him to present dishes that are memorable, visually stunning and always delicious.

Simon is not a man alone. Sandra, his wife, is Maître de Maison and is the front-of-house face of The Rosengarten. She has a background in hospitality and a dedicated commitment to the success of the hotel. I doubt that she has many complaints. The rooms and suites are furnished to 5-star standard. The bathroom toiletries are by Bulgari and the minibar contains the best of local and international goodies – all thoughtfully chosen to enhance your in-room haven.

Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa is on the edge of a classy village called Kirchberg. You will likely not have heard of that unless you are a skier but you will, I feel sure, have heard of Kitzbühel – a ski resort of the highest calibre frequented by the great and the good (well, at least those with a bit of cash). Kirchberg is just a few kilometres from that glitzy hub and is better value for money.

The village is traditional with all the wooden-housed, painted-plastered, mountain-backdropped charm that you would hope. It attracts the skiing fraternity in the snowy winter months as it has slopes for raw beginners, enthusiastic daredevils and through to those with a death wish. Thankfully they also have a sledge run for those like me who can’t naturally walk and whistle at the same time and who would probably already have had their skiing licence taken away, if there was such a thing. The snow had just arrived and there was a sense that Christmas would soon be upon us. The Christmas Market in Kitzbühel tempted with its stalls selling gluhwein and gingerbread.

Summer in Kirchberg is for those who want to use the ski lifts as transport to grassy hills for picnics. You will be able to enjoy breathtaking mountain views while you nibble your schinken. Clean air and a bit of unaccustomed exercise will ready you for a meal at Simon Taxacher's Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant.

You will note that it’s called Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa, so don’t plan to have every day up a mountain or indulging in retail therapy. The spa offers a far less taxing form of therapy in relaxing treatment rooms, where one can be massaged and steamed and pampered and unwound till all you want to do is wrap yourself in a fluffy dressing gown and slippers and read a good book till your eyes slowly close and you dream that the world is a better place. This Rosengarten holiday destination might not have a beach, but that spa is a worthy competitor, and it’s open all year round whatever the weather.

There is one rather special room at the Rosengarten spa. It’s a retreat for couples, a private space with a Jacuzzi bath made for two, a couple of massage couches, and a romantic nook in which to relax in calming solitude. A glass of champagne and some fruit complete the experience.

The Rosengarten hotel and restaurants have already been noticed by Relais & Châteaux, an organisation which seeks out quality, searches for the superb and celebrates the sublime. They have just invited The Rosengarten to be part of its number, and the group includes some of the best chefs and restaurants not just in Europe but the World. Be assured that those who are listed are exceptional in every regard. That gold fleur de lys on The Rosengarten wall is a badge of honour that is worn with pride.

But it’s the food that is the cornerstone of this establishment. We enjoyed our first meal in the bistro. A simple and short menu was nevertheless stunning. We started with a carpaccio of beef and then a pumpkin soup which was an outstanding example of its genre. I was then presented with the best ravioli dish I have ever had: paper-thin filled pasta in a light and flavourful velouté. I could understand the reason for the regard in which Simon Taxacher is held and I complimented him the next day. “Oh, that’s just the ordinary restaurant fare,” he told me. A meal at the Taxacher gourmet restaurant was bound to be a stunner ...and it was.

We were invited to attend a Gala Dinner to celebrate the Relais & Châteaux accolade, a formal meal for 80 or so food and hospitality worthies ...and me. Simon charmed us with his customary culinary artistry, flair and imagination. Course after course arrived with its associated wine, each chosen to complement the various fish, fowl or game. If this food was music it would be baroque with all the trills, swirls and twiddly bits. If this food was fabric it would be a tapestry of rich colour and texture – complex yet not a stitch out of place. If this food was mathematics then each element would combine to be more than the sum of its parts.

There is a natural flow at Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten. The quality starts at the top, in the Cookery School and its private dining area (more of that in future), and cascades down through those sumptuous rooms, drifting through both restaurants and down to the spa. Each floor is bathed in comfort and charm and punctuated with a little culinary excitement along the way. It is indeed worthy of that gold emblem.

Overview:
The Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten is located in the picturesque village of Kirchberg, just 7km away from Kitzbühel, with the renowned sports mountain Gaisberg on the doorstep.

26 Rooms and Suites
Restaurant Rosengarten
Bistro Rosengarten Light
Piano Bar & Smoking Lounge
Private Dining and Cookery School Studio on the top floor
Rosengarten Spa
2012 – Member of Relais & Châteaux and Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux

Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten
Aschauerstrasse 46
6365 Kirchberg
Tyrol, Austria
Phone: +43 5357 4201, Fax +43 5357 4201 50. 
Email: welcome@rosengarten-taxacher.com
Visit The Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten here 

My Cottage Kitchen Christmas Cake

Christmas puddings seem to excite a range of emotions from the nostalgic longing to the loathing. I am mostly of the second persuasion although there are some exceptional puddings that convince even me. But a traditional Christmas cake seems to be loved by more people and tends to be enjoyed over a longer period; so it needs to be good to tempt friends who drop by (they seem to know when there is food around), family who have the knack for being perpetually hungry, and you who tries to grab a few mouthfuls of something special when there is nothing more pressing to do.

Yep, you’ll not have much time to relax so anything that will aid your sanity has got to be a good thing, and My Cottage Kitchen Christmas Cake should be at the top of your list this year. It does double duty: it’s that cake that will be as good as or better than most you would either make or (go on admit it) buy so compliments and appreciative murmurings will be flying; and it’s that traditional treat of a gift for loved ones.

We always have the intention of making cakes from scratch, but let’s be practical. A cake that’s this good is worthy of gracing your festive table, but it will also save time and energy, and you won’t be making those silly comments: “Is it as good as last year?”, “Think I’ll try that TV recipe next time,” or “It’s supposed to have a dip in the middle.” Buy My Cottage Kitchen Christmas Cake and just enjoy it as much as everybody else will, without guilt or seasonal anxieties.

It’s refreshing to note the lack of E-numbers in the ingredients. Just all the good things you would expect, and those being nicely brought to a delicious conclusion inside an Aga. Yes, it really is as charmingly old-fashioned as it sounds. Their Rich Fruit Cake with Brandy is my choice of Christmas cake this year. No marzipan and icing but an attractive topping of fruit and nuts, and with a flavour and texture that will encourage you to have this as a Yule culinary tradition.

I know it’s a matter of individual preference, but this cake has won a Gold Medal at the Great Taste Awards this year. The foods being evaluated are without any packaging and the judges have no idea who produced them. There are thousands of items offered for judging, and to achieve gold speaks volumes; so try this one for yourself and you won’t be disappointed.

Each cake comes in a tin with a Perspex top to show off that hand-decorated cake. Great presentation for a quality product. The cakes come in various sizes to suit any family or for a gastronomic gift to spoil somebody special.

Visit My Cottage Kitchen here to buy online.

Game Pie - Laverstoke Park Farm Shop, Twickenham

There is a very striking shop on a corner of King Street Twickenham. The Laverstoke Park Butchers and Farm Shop opened only in June 2011 but it has elevated the culinary scene when it joined a celebrated fish shop and an independent greengrocers (their only competition being Waitrose, the veg prices there ain’t great) to create an oasis of delicious, quality foods.

Jody Scheckter is a name known by millions throughout the world as a Formula 1 racing driver but he now spends his time as an organic farmer, having bought Laverstoke Park Farm 40 miles west of London. He wanted to produce the healthiest food for himself and his family. He realised that the practical shortcomings of being a smallholder meant that he would have to eat beef for every meal for a couple of months every time a cow was slaughtered. So he expanded his horizons and decided to sell, rather than eat, all his stock.

It’s all about quality, sustainability and ethics and we, the consumer, benefit from that philosophy on every visit to this shop. I would counsel allowing a bit of extra time to browse the counters here. It’s not just that they offer fresh meat – it’s the sheer range of meats in all its forms and delicious diversity. There’s buffalo biltong (it's a dried meat product to which one can become addicted – the South African version of jerky), and buffalo milk ice cream is almost unique. Those buffaloes also produce milk for the shop’s mozzarella which is considered to be amongst the best in the UK. They have a wide range of sausages, all of which are gluten free, including wild boar sausages, and there are wild boar burgers. It’s not only all things meaty and dairy here: there is fresh fruit and vegetables grown in the walled garden at the farm, as well as goods that are ready to eat like pies, sausage rolls and scotch eggs.

It’s the season for cooking like it’s going out of style, but also for indulging in little gastronomic treats that will save you time and effort but still allow you to look like the best host on the planet. If you are not going to do it yourself then you still want to serve foods to be proud of, and Laverstoke Park Farm can help with that.

A game pie is an old-fashioned marriage of traditional hot water crust pastry (as for regular pork pies) and a rich and flavoursome filling. Yes, the dedicated could do this at home but it requires a varied selection of game. The Laverstoke Park Farm pie is usually made from a mixture of pheasant, grouse, wood pigeon and wild boar, but this mixture could be different depending on what’s available.

The fresh game pie is only on sale between the third week of November and Christmas, making it the possible centrepiece for a new culinary tradition. It’s certainly attractive enough to grace a buffet table during the festive season, and those nice people at Laverstoke Park Farm even write GAME in pastry across the top so you don’t get it confused with any other Laverstoke Park Farm pie that you might also have been tempted by.

But you won’t want to be just gazing in admiration at the pastry all over the holiday. It’s a rather good pie to eat. Many people, like me, find other game pies a little too, well, gamey. This version had a real distinctive flavour of game but without that somewhat earthy note that I find rather unappetising. The seasoning was well-balanced and I think I noticed an agreeable hint of sage. Any lover of a game pie would surely be impressed with this. Good textured crust and a jelly that was worthy of cushioning the melange of meat. A culinary cracker and well worth the price.

Laverstoke Park Farm Game Pie
Weight: 700g - enough for 4-6 adults
Price £12.20

Twickenham Shop Christmas Opening Hours
24th December: 9:00 - 16:00
25th, 26th, 27th December: Closed
28th December: 9:00 - 17:00
29th December: 9:00 - 17:00
30th December: 9:00 - 17:00
31st December: 9:00 - 15:00
1st January: Closed
2nd January: Closed
3rd January: 9:00 - 17:00

Laverstoke Park Farm Shop
35 King Street Parade
Twickenham TW1 3SD
Phone: 020 8744 1112

Tuscany

Tuscany is a region in the north-west of Italy. It has an area of about 23,000 square kilometres and a population of about 3.75 million well-fed Tuscans. The regional capital, and the main tourist draw, is Florence with its numerous museums and art galleries, such as the Uffizi, and it is also a major city for Italian fashion, considered one of the top fifty clothes capitals of the world. But Tuscany is just as much known for food as frocks.

Tuscany is the region we will likely think of with regard to Italian food and wine. OK, the south also has much to recommend it but Tuscany has the richest tapestry of ingredients on a field of stunning landscape and architecture. Its lands produce celebrated wines, such as Chianti Classico, the Brunello di Montalcino, and Rosso di Montepulciano, which is one of my favourites and much underrated.

Tuscany is strewn with vineyards but there are also olive groves which are important to the local rural economy, along with cheese and meat production. Its simple cuisine has charmed the rest of us for generations and now we take advantage of holiday homes and cookery schools to immerse ourselves still further in the delicious dishes of Tuscany.

This book is part recipe book and part inviting travelogue. 50 recipes offer an overview of classic yet often rustic fare. You’ll have no problem finding the ingredients and you won’t need to have attended one of those aforementioned cookery schools to achieve success. Nothing too costly so this will be the book into which you can dip for more interesting family meals without the need to consult a bank manager.

Each area of Tuscany is considered and some representative recipes are listed, along with striking photography of food and the landscape. Hearty savoury dishes and sweet tarts to enjoy with that local wine.

If I was driven to select just one area on which to focus then it would probably be Luca in northern Tuscany. Arista al Finicchio – pork loin with fennel – is a dish that would work for a large family Sunday lunch: it does feed six. This pork is smart enough to be on your dinner party menu, with some roast veggies on the side.

Crostata di Ricotta Garfagnina – Garfagnina ricotta tart – would be the perfect end to that porcine feast. I always warm to a recipe that allows the cook to use ready-made pastry with no guilt. This is a rich cheese tart flavoured with a little Marsala and raisins for sweetness. A simple recipe for a dessert or an afternoon treat.

Tuscany is a book that will be appreciated by those who love Italian food but who are looking for something a little different from pizza. You don’t have to be an expert cook to be able to replicate these recipes, but an enthusiastic cookbook collector will find much that is new. Tuscany will also be sought by those who love the region and want a souvenir of holidays already enjoyed and inspiration for those yet to come.

Cookbook review: Tuscany
Published by: Phaidon
Price: £24.95
ISBN-10: 071486078-6
ISBN-13: 978-071486078-7

The Heart of the Home

The author, Julie Goodwin, was Australia’s first MasterChef winner. Now I guess that will probably mean more to you than me as I don’t watch that programme – not even the UK version. Yes, I do appreciate the talent of the competing wannabe chefs, but it’s the presenters I have a problem with.

Julie has penned a family cookbook. There are plenty of those out there and many of them seem to miss the mark by presenting dishes that are just, well, too cheffy. Unless your Granny was a chef your family recipes will be reasonably simple affairs that evoke memories rather than an urge to go and buy a Sous Vide – that’s a water bath to us mortals. Julie avoids all those posing pretentions and offers us food that we could honestly make for the family.

The Heart of the Home has dishes for those with real lives. Plenty for ‘im (or ‘er) and the kids, but lots for when the in-laws are around, and others for when people you like drop by. A raft of comforting puds as well as smart desserts. There are traditional roasts and pies along with some oriental nibbles. Julie’s recipes reflect the way we eat today and more importantly the way we cook today.

‘Tis the season to be making sausage rolls and Julie offers a filling that’s a bit more flavoursome than my habitual sausagemeat. A few extra spices make a big difference but the method for forming those bites is just the same as it’s always been. An alternative to the sausage rolls might be Thai-style Fish Cakes which will give the non-meat eater something to munch for a change; or Greek Spinach Pastries for those who are not keen on fish. 

Oven-fried Chicken is practical and economic. I do confess to enjoying spicy fried chicken. Hot, comforting and moreish but I know it’s unhealthy and laden with guilt; Julie’s version is baked rather than fried, and could become your new regular Saturday night TV dinner. The results are superb with crispy coating and moist chicken.

White Christmas sounds an unlikely title for an Australian recipe but here it is. It’s neither a frozen dessert nor a dish of reindeer meat in a cream sauce. This White Christmas is a bejewelled candy of white chocolate, puffed rice, coconut and dried fruits along with marshmallows. This makes a change from the regular dark chocolate truffles and the kids can help with the mixing. This would make a lovely gift for anyone with a sweet tooth.

The Heart of the Home is a charming book with dishes you really can imagine yourself cooking. There are blank pages at the back for you to add your own latest favourite and a pocket for storing those recipes snipped from the Sunday papers. A book to keep in the kitchen and to use.

Cookbook review: The Heart of the Home
Author: Julie Goodwin
Published by: Random House Australia
Price: £24.99
ISBN 978-1-74275-009-5

The Art of French Baking

Ginette Mathiot was one of the most celebrated French food writers and she was so respected that she was awarded Officier de la Légion d'Honneur by the French government. She was into her 90s when she died after a long and celebrated career. She wrote over 30 books including the famous Je Sais Cuisiner – I Know How To Cook – which sold over 6 million copies.

The Art of French Baking is a classic in every sense of the word. It has over 350 recipes for things that truly have been made in French homes. It’s an urban myth that every French woman is born an expert cook or baker. It’s a lie to suggest that French women have only ever been interested in those long and arduous recipes that are the stuff of legend. The truth is that French housewives have always been practical. They are just as happy as we mortals to prepare meals for the family that require little of their presence in the kitchen.

This book is full of baked goods that are familiar. You will have already enjoyed many of them with a cup of coffee in France or a cuppa tea at home. They are not those bright and over-decorated shiny gems that one finds in those breathtakingly expensive boutique cake shops in Paris: all mirror-finish chocolate, Barbie-pink roses and green icing bright enough to read a book by. No, these recipes are for sweet pastries that are family-friendly, and many of them have few ingredients and take little time.

There are all the usual suspects here: Tart Tatin, Lemon Tarts and Brioches, but there are lots more that are just as traditional and not difficult to make. Neapolitans are made from ground nuts, egg whites and sugar, and these could be a project for you and the kids – no ‘real’ cooking.

Clafoutis is a favourite for cool weather and can be made with a variety of fruits; this version uses black cherries but it’s just as good with plums. It’s a sweet dessert that’s similar to a Yorkshire Pudding and can be served hot or at room temperature. Gateau de Pain aux Fraises is a French bread pudding. This isn’t a bread and butter pudding so popular these days, this is more like a Manchester Pudding or a Queen of Puddings. Economic but smart.

My pick of the book is the recipe for Pithiviers. This is one of my favourite cakes. In reality it’s a combination of puff pastry (yes, you can use shop-bought) and an almond sponge. Granted it doesn’t sound a stunner but it is delicious, and with its traditional pastry decoration you will give the impression that you have been to patisserie school in Paris.

The Art of French Baking is a book penned by a lady who was popular in her home country where people know a lot more about French food than I do. It’s a good solid book for those who want to develop their own baking skills. Nothing too taxing, but this book will teach and inspire in equal measure.

Cookbook review: The Art of French Baking
Author: Ginette Mathiot
Published by: Phaidon
Price: £24.95
ISBN-10: 0714862401
ISBN-13: 978-0714862408

200 Soups

Well, it’s the season for it. Heathrow has been fog-bound and we have moved the garden pot-plants nearer the house. The central heating is now on full-time and the hot-water bottles have been brought out of mothballs. It’s nearly winter.

That came around quick! We are musing on hearty meals and hot comfort foods; saving a few bob seems like a good idea. We don’t want to spend ages in the kitchen even if it is the warmest spot in the house, so home-made soup will be high on the list of craved lunches or suppers.

200 Soups is an American book and so offers a few things that we might not have seen between the covers of cookbooks hailing from these shores. Chowder of various hues has long been popular in the US. There are several versions and each has its followers who would not dream of being seen with a bowl of the competition. The two clam chowders are the ones that seem to excite the most partisan of passions. Manhattan Clam Chowder will be the one familiar to those of us who have visited that classy peninsula. This is a tomato-based recipe, in contrast to the New England Clam Chowder which is rich and creamy and my personal favourite. This book suggests cans of clams, a common ingredient in the US, but please use fresh clams in the UK.

I have noticed that the book takes advantage of a few more convenience foods than many UK cookbooks. I don’t mention that as a criticism, and it will indeed be a departure welcomed by those strapped for time ...and by me. Nothing wrong with a stock cube as long as it’s a good quality one. There are lots of potato soups here and those vegetables, although economic, will need a good can/cube/plastic bottle of flavourful stock to assist their natural starchy blandness.

My favourite recipe is that for Curry Soup. This has vibrant flavours of Indian spices. Use a pressure cooker for the lentils and that will cut down on cooking time. This is a great make-ahead soup and this recipe serves 6, so enough to last for a couple of meals for a small family. Delicious with just some crusty bread.

200 Soups is hard-cover and ring-bound for practical flat-on-the-counter reading, and it offers some American classics to enjoy till the weather takes a turn for the better.

Cookbook review: 200 Soups
Author: Madge Baird
Published by: Gibbs Smith
Price: $12.99
ISBN 978-1-4236-2331-1

The Constance Spry Cookery Book

Grub Street has carved out a great reputation as a cookbook publisher. There are a few of them out there but I am always excited when a Grub Street book arrives – it’s gonna be a classic. People term anything that they like “a classic” but Grub Street publish “the” classics and The Constance Spry Cookery Book is right up there with the best.

What makes a classic cookbook? Well, it must surely be longevity. This book has been around since the 1950s. OK, so there were not so many cookbooks on the shelves in those days but there have been thousands since and most of them sink without a trace after a year or two. That companion book to the celebrity chef TV series will be collecting dust as it dawns upon you that the programme was a delightful travelogue but the recipes are a poor bunch and might not even have been penned by the celeb (shock, horror!).

Yes, there is plenty of competition out there so a book that has endured for half a century must surely have a lot to recommend it. The Constance Spry Cookery Book certainly does. It’s a weighty tome written by, unsurprisingly, Constance Spry but also Rosemary Hume who was her partner in a cookery school. They filled their masterwork with well-written recipes reflecting the food of the era, but good food never goes out of fashion. Food should not be a trend, a passing fad. If it was good then, it will be good now.

This is a page-turner for any lover of British food. There are recipes here for delicious traditional fare that, thank goodness, contemporary chefs are now acknowledging. OK, there are French recipes (any self-respecting middle-class housewife of the mid-20th century would want a battery of those) but they are the ones that are still prized in the 21st century. However, it’s the old-fashioned English ones that I find so charming: Suet Roly Poly; Beef Wellington; Baked Stuffed Hearts.

It’s not just the recipes that will be absorbing. The prose surrounding the food is almost poetic and more like Elisabeth David than Jamie Oliver. On bread:“I wish I could conjure up the smell that greeted us on baking days as we came in from a frosty walk, or which hung on the summer air round the open kitchen window.” Makes you want to buy a cottage, let alone bake some bread.

It’s no surprise that this book has been at the top of many a wedding list. It’s a culinary instruction manual and a family heirloom in the making. The recipes are mostly short and unfussy and don’t assume you have ever graced the inside of a kitchen. A collector’s cookbook but it’s one to use and cherish.

Cookbook review: The Constance Spry Cookery Book
Authors: Constance Spry and Rosemary Hume
Published by: Grub Street
Price £30.00
ISBN 978-1-908117-17-5

The Golden Book of Desserts

As a kid I would sit next to the radiogram (yes, there were such things and yes, I am that old), listen to Two-Way Family Favourites and leaf through my Mum’s big old cookbook. It had thousands of pictures but all of them in black and white. Every Sunday was the same and I never tired of dreaming of making and eating those dishes when I was a “big girl”.

The Golden Book of Desserts is far from that monochrome cookbook that so captured my imagination half a century ago, but it does hold the same magic and it’s a lot more colourful. It’s a book that has taken me a while to review. I linger over some volumes longer than others and this has been a page-turner of memories, and of promises to make in the near future.

In the good old days almost every meal would end with dessert but we now tend to keep them for weekends, entertaining and celebrations. There are sweets here for every occasion and season, and from the rustic to the more elaborate, and just about every recipe has a full-page colour picture to inspire you ...and hopefully your kids.

Each section starts with some step-by-step illustrations to introduce you to a particular cake, pastry or batter. For instance, there are several strudels and you’ll be able to make them all with ease after you have mastered the thin and elastic dough. This is a cookbook not just for the accomplished home chef but for the novice who will learn from the illustrated methods.

I have a few favourites from The Golden Book of Desserts. Prune, Armagnac and Mascarpone Tart is a classic but simple dessert. Strange that we Brits joke about the “healthful” qualities of prunes but put those same dried fruits in a French confection and we all insist that it’s the best thing since sliced bread (or baguette) ...or the sweet equivalent. This tart is so delicious that it’s hard to believe it’s actually doing you good.

There are frozen delights to try as well. This isn’t really cooking – just a bit of mixing and use of the freezer to produce some amazing made-ahead treats for the family or dinner guests. The Turkish Delight Ice Cream is exotic and bejewelled with delicate pink. Sophisticated.

The Golden Book of Desserts is a gift-quality volume with over 250 recipes for practical desserts to suit every taste. These are written for the domestic kitchen and many would be recognised by previous generations – everything from comforting puds to contemporary sorbets.

Cookbook review: The Golden Book of Desserts
Author: Carla Bardi, Rachel Lane
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-84543-428-1

The Palace Hotel - Malta

Sliema is the main coastal resort on Malta. That will cause many of my readers to click away from this article but I beg you to read on and become enlightened about a real hidden gem of the Med.

Sliema is indeed the most prominent holiday location on the island. If you haven’t already visited then you will assume that this will be a predictable island holiday “haven”, with its dubious waterfront punctuated by tacky tourist bars, tackier souvenirs, full English breakfasts and a 12hour-long “happy” hour. Yes, we have all been to those well-known holiday ghettos, and there are many of us who do not wish a speedy return.

Now consider those other resort towns of the style of, say, Nice or Le Lavandou in France. They offer class, flair mixed with a certain joie de vivre. Well it’s rather like that in this corner of Malta. It’s very traditionally Maltese but it also oozes a little je ne sais quoi ...or whatever that is in Maltese. Sliema attracts the well-travelled and well-heeled strata of Maltese society as well as the international set, and it’s the neighbourhood of The Ferries where the fashionable shops and boutiques can be found, so bring your gold card.

This is a real town where the locals honestly do live. It’s a busy place with its boundary with the sea being the celebrated Strand, where you will be able to indulge in some high-end retail therapy as well as enjoy some of best food around. The wide promenade offers views to the capital, Valletta, a short distance away. That’s another advantage with Malta: nothing is far away. The promenade overlooks a flat rocky beach and two swimming pool lidos for the sun worshippers, although Malta offers so much more even in cool weather. You will never be short of things to do: amazing fish to try, places to go, superb wine to sample, churches to visit, delicious food to linger over, boat-rides to take, Maltese nibbles to graze upon...

So you have been enticed by glowing descriptions of Malta’s equally glowing honey-coloured stone, and you have made up your mind that Sliema will be your destination; but you will need a place to stay. Sleeping on a beach is frowned on and anyway you are too old for all that. You are looking for one of the best hotels around in which to relax and be pampered, not very far from your comfort zone of some very decent retail therapy. Book yourself into The Palace.

I confess that I had not done my homework before arriving at The Palace. The name sounded grand but I travelled with more hope than expectation. Was this going to be a monument to faded glory? I knew that Malta has history percolating through every stone so this could be a very old “palace” indeed.

It was with some relief that I discovered that The Palace is 5-star, and it’s easy to see why. It’s newish, contemporary, well-appointed and most importantly, friendly. The lobby is marble-clad, leather-lounged and chandelier-ceilinged, with two restaurants and two computers that really do offer instant internet access – although there is wifi in all the rooms, for those who tote a laptop or pad.

But I wasn’t staying in Reception and I yearned for a cosy room to call my own for a few nights. A long hot bath and some pillows that didn’t have the name of an airline embroidered all over. My room was on the 7th floor and had a view over the rooftops to the sea. The private balcony would have been a magnet for me and a book, had the weather cooperated.

Plenty of hanging space, a TV and a desk were all 5-star standard, along with a mini-bar and tea-making facilities so discretely hidden that I didn’t find them until the second night! And the bed was 6 stars at least – well, OK you will say that it was just the sense of fatigued desperation that made that substantial and fluffy cloud so appealing ...but it seemed just as attractive the next morning when I tried, reluctantly, to lift my by now thoroughly rested back from those cotton sheets.

The bathroom was one of the best I have recently graced. A proper bath and a selection of eminently stealable toiletries were the focus on the first night, but the morning found me wandering the vastness of the shower. Deep joy. I can never resist bathrooms that are bigger than my house.

The Palace has a spa for those who prefer to be less dormant than this reviewer, and this is spread over three levels, offering a fresh-water indoor pool, an outdoor pool and a fitness room. There is a battery of spa treatments and a range of products to suit all skin types. Hotel guests can also use the tennis courts and squash courts at the nearby Union Club.

The Tabloid restaurant offers a very substantial breakfast buffet. Yes, OK, so one would expect a good spread. The Palace is 5-Star after all. But this was a rather positive start to the day, morning foods to tempt any sleepy palate and I do love a good, leisurely and peaceful brekkie. Lots of hot goods on offer and these included some Maltese specialities such as local sausages and cheese-filled pastries. A good selection of sweet breads to go along with some coffee for those with Gallic leanings. Fresh fruit in abundance because I wanted to be worthy, and a few cakes to follow. Yes, a well-balanced breakfast for this reviewer.

I am lucky enough to be able to spend time in 5-star hotels all over the world and The Palace is up there with the best. It has all the amenities that one would expect but the location and the quality of staff are unique to the Palace. I only have one regret and that is that I missed visiting their TemptAsian restaurant on the 9th floor. This is said to be one of the foremost pan-Asian restaurants in the whole of Europe. That’s not a bad accolade when one considers the standard of the competition. I guess a return to The Palace is in order.

The Palace Hotel
High Street, Sliema SLM1542
Malta
Phone: +356 21 333 444
Fax: +356 2262 1000
Email: business@thepalacemalta.com
Visit the Palace Hotel here

The Family Meal

Sounds like another cookbook describing methods of encouraging your kids to eat sprouts. Well, no, not this time. The Family Meal has its focus on a different style of family. Not Mum, Dad, 2.4 kids, a dog called Barry, and Grandma on Sunday. The author, Ferran Adria (where have I heard that name before?) considers the meal made by his staff for his staff to be the ‘Family Meal’.

It’s a tradition in restaurants that the cooks, chefs and kitchen orderlies eat together before service. In Indian restaurants it’s often called the ‘staff curry’ and will probably be home-style dishes that the management enjoy but don’t want to try on the Westerners (why not?). Other European restaurants could find their workers tucking into just the same as the paying diners; but there is one celebrated UK chef (no name given by this writer) who only ever gave his hard-working crew pasta with tomato sauce. No way to encourage loyalty, methinks.

Ferran Adria: oh, yes, I remember – wasn’t he the mastermind of El Bulli? Therefore this book is bound to be full of rare and exotic ingredients not normally found in our humble supermarkets? In fact it’s a surprising book in several regards. The format is unique with each section being a full menu with a timeline for easier planning. The recipes are simple and have step-by-step pictures to aid the anxious. I wasn’t expecting this level of user friendliness from such a renowned chef. He assumes you know nothing and so gently leads you through the process to a successful and delicious result. Would that all chefs considered their audience in such a thoughtful manner.

The fare here ranges from the robust and rustic to the striking and seductive, but it’s all accessible to the home cook who is unlikely to have an army of helpers and a gizmo called a marinader/poacher/steamer/fryer thingy or even a potato-peeling machine. Your kitchen will likely already be equipped with all you will need.

I am impressed with how well Ferran fed his team. A typical meal might consist of such offerings as Bread and Garlic Soup followed by Mexican-style slow-cooked Pork, and Figs with Cream and Kirsch to finish. Surely an inspired yet simple meal every day would have educated the palates of those kitchen diners, introducing them to new tastes and combinations of ingredients; and isn’t that what we want to do in our own homes?

My Pick of the Book is the menu of Chickpeas with Spinach and Egg, Glazed Teriyaki Pork Belly, Sweet Potato with Honey and Cream. A well-balanced and innovative meal made with the most economic of ingredients. That seems to reflect the general ethos of this practical cookbook.

I hadn’t expected to like this book. In truth I had assumed it would be an over-cheffy tome that would look good on the shelf and be a coffee-table talking point, but this is honestly a book to use, and the recipes within might well become your family favourites. One can ask nothing more of a proper cookbook.

Cookbook review: The Family Meal
Author: Ferran Adria
Published by: Phaidon
Price: £19.95
ISBN 978-0-7148-6239-2

The Golden Book of Cooking

Cookbooks seem to fall into one of two categories. There are those that are stunningly beautiful, and those that are full of recipes that you will want to make on a regular basis. It’s rare that one will find a cookbook that straddles both genres, but The Golden Book of Cooking does that with style.

It’s that time of year. You’ll likely be searching for that perfect gift for your nearest and perhaps dearest home cook. He/she has a shelf full of celebrity-penned (oh, really!) cookbooks and they are indeed dipped into from time to time; but how’s about a gift-quality book that offers a truly great recipe on each page? So many cookbooks suffer from the “album” syndrome: you buy it but there is only one good track. The Golden Book of Cooking is so broad-based that it’s bound to spend more time in the kitchen than on those shelves.

This is another in that attractive “Golden” series from Apple Press. They have found the knack of presenting books stuffed with delicious and flavourful dishes made from simple recipes. The secret to its popularity is the full-page picture for every recipe. That gives a bit of support to the less confident and a bit of inspiration for tonight’s dinner.

The recipes here are an eclectic bunch of traditional dishes from across the globe. Lots that will be familiar, and many new takes on old favourites. Some interesting suggestions from Australia including Downunder Meat Pies, the first recipe for such that I have come across; and the ever-popular Lamingtons – chocolate and coconut-coated sponge cakes.

Each chapter is divided by food type – Rice, Vegetables, Poultry, etc. The recipes appeal to all tastes, with spicy dishes from India and Thailand, aromatic Tagines from Morocco as well as a full complement of European and North American classics. The Golden Book of Cooking would make a very worthy one-stop cookbook for someone who is short of space and wants a single volume to cover the basics of everything and to be able to make dishes that people have actually heard of.

Massaman Curry is a favourite of mine but it’s shocking how many recipes start with “Take a jar of Massaman curry paste.” Well, for a start I have never found such a product (OK, so I have never seriously looked), and secondly, it’s far better to make one’s own fresh and flavourful pastes. The Golden Book of Cooking offers a real from-scratch recipe that is a delight. It’s a substantial meal as a one-pot dish or serve rice on the side to make that pricey meat stretch a bit further.

My pick-of-the-book is Cabbage Kimchi. This is a celebrated dish in Korea where many families still make enough of these pickled vegetables to last through the winter. It was traditionally stored in huge jars buried in the frozen soil. It’s surprisingly easy to make although it takes almost two weeks of waiting before it’s sufficiently fermented to achieve its tangy perfection.

The Golden Book of Cooking will be on many a Christmas list and with good reason. Over 250 recipes to tempt every palate. Definitely a must for any enthusiastic cook.

Cookbook review: The Golden Book of Cooking
Authors: Carla Bardi and Rachel Lane
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84543 4182

Little Old Lady Recipes –
comfort food and kitchen table wisdom

Into every cookbook reviewer’s life comes a publisher who says “I saw this and thought of you.” And so it was that I was the recipient of Little Old Lady Recipes. It’s a charming book written by the aforementioned sassy gals, and is evidently considered a book to be enjoyed by this Little Old Lady.

It’s a small-format book with a portrait on the cover. Think of Uncle Ben on the rice packet and you have the idea. OK, so it’s a lady here and she is white but it gives the same message: a contented soul who has spent a lifetime cooking up a storm and is happy to spread the joy.

If you have ever been to the Mid-West states of the USA then you will be able to hear the voices of these ladies. There is plenty of traditional and comforting food here, but also great good humour and no-nonsense philosophy. You know what these ladies say is right and if you disagree you will be wise to keep it to yourself.

The recipes are peppered with witty asides that add rich colour to this cookbook. “When your budget is tighter than a bad facelift...”, and “Butter comes from cows. Tell me where the heck margarine comes from, and then maybe I’ll eat it.” But the dishes offered here are typical of old-fashioned goods that would have been enjoyed down on the farm in Iowa, Illinois or Nebraska. I have friends from that neck of the woods and I recognise the personal warmth as well as the hearty food.

A recipe that might not have been found down on the farm is that for Tropical Breeze Fruit Leather. Perhaps they made apple fruit leather in a low oven overnight but the fruit for this exotic version comes from a bit further away. Mango, banana and coconut combine to make a healthy, natural snack that the kids will love. A way of getting them to eat some fruit, but don’t tell them it’s good for them!

The recipe for Turnovers is perhaps my favourite from this little gem. It’s a good one for using up leftovers. Some seasoned minced meat encased in pastry and baked make handy little pasties. Eat them hot; they are also good at room temperature but in that case add extra spice.

Little Old Lady Recipes – comfort food and kitchen table wisdom is a great stocking-filler for anybody interested in the place of food in society. It’s fascinating to hear people comment on their lives and to see how food fits into their world.

Cookbook review: Little Old Lady Recipes – comfort food and kitchen table wisdom
Author: Meg Favreau
Published by: Quirk
Price: $14.95
ISBN 978-1-59474-518-8

Cookbook review: Rustic Italian –
simple, authentic recipes for everyday cooking

This is a chunky well-proportioned volume which does indeed focus on rustic Italian food, although good Italian food is mostly rustic anyway. All those classic dishes we crave are the kinds of things that have been commonplace in regular homes along the length of the boot of Italy for generations. If you want a smart and contemporary meal then present small portions of these same dishes on a square plate and buy a metre-long pepper mill to irritate your guests.

Yes, rustic dishes, but they have been given a bit of polish by the addition of wine pairing suggestions. Don’t just offer a bottle of cheap Chianti but rather choose a wine that will actually enhance the food. OK, so you might not be tempted to make a lampshade out of the suggested bottle, but surely it’s more important to impress with your culinary skills rather than your aptitude for handicrafts.

Domenica Marchetti is an American of Italian descent so the selection of recipes might be somewhat different from that you would likely find in a UK-biased cookbook; but that does give this book greater appeal. You’ll discover new ideas and inspiration just by looking at the index – accessible ingredients that take advantage of the changing seasons.

Antipasti are small starters or can be enjoyed as nibbles with drinks. Crostini con Piselli e Menta – toast with sweet pea puree and mint – is simple to prepare and you can use frozen peas as the base. Eat these as soon as they are ready to prevent the bread from going soggy. The Italian speck gives a savoury counterpoint to the bright green peas.

Panzanella – Tuscan bread salad with capers – is a classic. It’s an ideal summer one-plate dish and uses that not-quite-so-fresh bread, although it’s honestly worth buying or making some country bread especially for this salad. No need to be a slave to the recipe: add your own array of vegetables and a few interesting leaves and make this dish your own. A great light lunch with a glass of a crisp white wine.

Meatloaf is an international comfort food, it seems. Polpettine alla Fiorentina – Florentine meatloaf with pecorino and wine – is the Italian version of the ever-popular staple. It has what I for one consider the best proportions and combination of meats: equal parts of veal, pork and beef which, when well seasoned, tastes more like sausage than ordinary mince. Serve this with one of my favourite wines, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

Rustic Italian – simple, authentic recipes for everyday cooking is practical. We are all noticing that our shopping bills are larger than ever, but we still want to feed our families with the best we can afford, and it’s always fun to be able to entertain with meals that are attractive and delicious. There are some recipes here to impress both family and friends without taking out a mortgage.

Cookbook review: Rustic Italian – simple, authentic recipes for everyday cooking
Author: Domenica Marchetti
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-441-0

Cookbook review: Macarons

Pierre Hermé is the fourth generation of a family of bakers from Alsace in France. He has been working and learning his trade since he was just 14 years old, when he started as a lowly apprentice. He was in Paris with the celebrated pâtissier, Gaston Lenôtre, who was to become Pierre’s greatest professional influence.

In the late 90s, he started his eponymous Paris pâtisserie and then his Tokyo branch, followed in 2000 by tea rooms in Ikspiari, the Tokyo Disney shopping area. There are now seven stores in Tokyo, six in Paris, one in London, and an online shop.

Pierre Hermé was the youngest chef ever to be named France's Pastry Chef of the Year, and is also the only one to have been invested as a Chevalier of Arts and Letters. He was awarded the legendary Chevalier de la Légion d'honneur in 2007.

Yes, Pierre is the emperor of Macarons. They are very chic and rather pricey. They make very smart gifts as their regular shape allows for easy and stylish packaging. These delicate dainties are striking served straight from a beautiful box.

The shape is always the same and the macarons are always sandwiched with a complementary cream, but the colours can vary from a hint of pastel shade to a vibrant and in-your-face hue. These are great cookies to theme for an event or person: your friend’s favourite colour, or green with red sprinkles for Christmas.

I would be lying to you if I said that these are the simplest things to bake. There is a technique and it’s important to stick to the method and to adhere slavishly to the weights when making the shells, but once you have achieved the characteristic dome and “foot” then the world is your culinary oyster. Step-by-step picture instructions are here so you have all you need to achieve perfection.

This is the first time that Pierre Hermé recipes have been published in an English-language book. He offers all the classics that have made him so celebrated. Most of them are sweet but there are a few savouries and these can be offered as nibbles with a chilled glass of fizz.

My favourite macarons are the Fresh Mint Macarones from the Signature chapter. These have strong colour and fresh flavour. Pierre favours crème fraîche and white chocolate for many of his fillings, which gives good texture and acts as a carrier for other flavouring ingredients.

Practice with Pierre’s original recipes but then try adapting them to include your favourite flavours, or change the pairings of shells and fillings to invent something totally different. Don’t be intimidated because Macarons are très français – it’s only baking after all, so be bold and adventurous and have fun.

Cookbook review: Macarons
Author: Pierre Hermé
Published by: Grub Street
Price: 25.00
ISBN 978-1-908117-23-6

Malta – Isle of honey and history

Malta has always held a special place in British hearts. Being a colony, situated close to Sicily and the enemy shipping lanes, Malta was bombarded by both the Italian and German air forces in the Second World War. Malta was considered a strategic target as it was used by the Allies to launch attacks on the Italian navy.
 
June 1940 saw the first enemy air raids. The Luftwaffe and the Italian Air Force flew a total of 3,000 bombing raids over a period of two years in an effort to destroy Allied defences and the ports. On 15th April 1942, King George VI awarded the George Cross – the highest civilian award for gallantry – to the whole island; a hard-won honour that is commemorated in a plaque on the wall of the Government Offices in Valetta.

Airports are indistinguishable the world over. They differ in size and selection of retail therapy opportunities but they are much the same everywhere. It’s the language you’ll hear when you have passed through passport control and baggage claim that will be your first introduction to the host population. Maltese is a remarkable language and quite unlike anything I had ever heard before. It’s one of the Semitic languages which are still spoken by more than 270 million people across the Middle East and North Africa. It developed into a language in its own right between the ninth and fourteenth centuries, with half of the words being Italian and Sicilian, English words making up about one fifth of the vocabulary. Before the arrival of the British, the official language had been Italian – used by the local nobility and upper classes. It was increasingly overshadowed by the use of English, and in 1934 English and Maltese were declared the sole official languages.

Malta has had, and still has, close links with Britain. The majority of signs are in English and the majority of the population speak both Maltese and English. In that and many other regards Malta is the most perfect of holiday spots in the Mediterranean. It has thankfully avoided becoming a British satellite with restaurants selling only English Breakfasts and Fish and Chips. The indigenous cuisine of Malta is still alive and much appreciated by those who seek it out.
 
Malta's history and position between Europe and North Africa have had an influence on its gastronomy. It has had to import most of its ingredients and that has allowed Maltese cuisine to develop using foods from elsewhere. Sicilian, Middle Eastern and Arab foods have been present for hundreds of years.

The Knights of St John have had a major impact on the island and they brought with them foods from their various homelands. France, Italy and Spain have added culinary colour to the Maltese tapestry. Malta is thought to be one of the first countries in Europe to discover the delights of chocolate, and the potatoes from Malta are considered some of the most flavourful.

The Maltese are a feisty lot and are said to be not easily led. For example, the Maltese fenkata – a festive meal of rabbit – is the national dish, which started as a protest to the hunting restrictions imposed by the Knights of St John. During the time of the Crusades, the popularity of pork products was a display of defiance towards their neighbouring Muslim countries; another assertion of independence.

When a Maltese invites you to graze on “a few nibbles” before dinner then that guest should settle him/herself on a comfy dining-room chair, loosen their belts and wait for the stream of savoury, and probably sweet, delights to arrive. I am convinced that Maltese table legs must be reinforced more than is deemed necessary in the rest of the civilised world, to allow for the weight of dishes in a typical presentation of “nibbles”. The table might include: Żebbuġ Mimli, pitted green olives stuffed with tuna; Fażola bajda bit-tewm u t-tursin, white beans with parsley, garlic and olive oil; fresh-baked bread with a drizzle of local olive oil; sun-dried tomatoes dressed with herbs; local sausages and cheeses.

There are plenty of baked goods in Malta. One could be lucky and find a baker like Larry, who is still working with a wood-fired oven many metres deep to supply the demand for his crusty country bread as well as Qagħaqa tal-ħmira – a soft sweet ring-shaped roll with a perfume of aniseed and a topping of sesame seeds.

The Honey Ring is a traditional Maltese cake, and the recipe dates back to the 15th century. It’s made with black treacle which gives a distinctive dark centre to the pastry. Marmalade, orange peel, spices and honey are the other ingredients, along with a little semolina to bind. That honey is from the native bees which have been prized since before Roman times. This traditional Maltese Christmas treat is available all year round but it’s particularly popular for the holidays.

Almond cookies – Ghadam tal-Mejtin – are enjoyed during November. This name means “dead men's bones” and they are indeed made in the shape of bones and glazed with white icing. They are an indispensible part of the ‘All Saints’ festivities.

Kinnie, the local soft drink, has been around for nearly 60 years. It has a unique taste, is alcohol-free but nevertheless rather appealing to adults, has a golden colour, and is made from bitter oranges and aromatic herbs. A perfect summer drink when served over ice with a garnish of sliced citrus.

The fruit of the cactus grows in abundance and is red, sweet and juicy when ripe. The hedges of cactus divide fields and act as wind breaks. The red jewels of fruit are used to produce Bajtra prickly pear liqueur – pale blush pink, delicate and sweet. Stunning when made into jelly, and Bajtra turns a scoop of vanilla ice cream into smart dinner party fare. Simple yet exotic.

Malta is indeed a honeyed island. The very name could be from the Greek word for honey – ‘meli’, or land of honey, ‘melitos’, or even the Roman ‘melita’, also meaning honey. Even the stone buildings have a soft mellow honey glow. The honey is sweet and celebrated. There is much more to Malta than sun and friendly natives. It’s a land of many delicious culinary surprises and I look forward to a return visit.

Vigo – Michelin Stars and Seafood

You will appreciate from my previous articles that I consider Vigo in Galicia something of an undiscovered culinary gem. The fresh produce and seafood are outstanding but you will likely be staying in a hotel where cooking facilities are strictly for the professionals, so you will want to find the best and the most interesting of restaurants to try all those aforementioned delicacies.

Vigo and the surrounding towns offer both locals and visitors an array of gastronomic opportunities. One can eat well here for a fraction of the price of similar in the UK. The cost is lower but the quality isn’t.

The El Mosquito Restaurant

The El Mosquito Restaurant in Vigo is iconic and considered by many to be the best traditional restaurant in the town. With those considerations in mind one might expect a huge flashy chandelier-hung carbon copy of every other “iconic” restaurant in Europe. No, thank goodness, dear reader, El Mosquito is the “real thing” and it truly is celebrated for good reason.

El Mosquito first opened in the 1930s. The founder of the restaurant was Ms. Carmen Roel Rilo, who passed away in 1986. It wasn’t trying to attract swep-up diners in those days, but was said initially to be a ‘Tavern for sailors’, serving Spanish Ribeiro wine and small plates of fried fish (Ribeiro is a surname common in Galicia, Portugal and Brazil; it is also a wine-making region of Southeast central Galicia). There would have been plenty of sailors in those days and I guess they would have been satisfied with that rather short menu. I am sure those few items offered were fresh and tasty, but the discerning diners of the 21st century have higher expectations and the 21st century El Mosquito gives them just what they expect, and probably more. Ms. Rilo transformed, with the help of her family, this humble establishment into a worthy recipient of accolades.

The restaurant is found near the harbour in the old quarter of Vigo, a picturesque neighbourhood which reminds the visitor that Vigo was around a long time before holiday cruise ships or international airports were even thought of. El Mosquito looks small from the outside but walk down a short corridor past a seafood counter and you are into a charming restaurant of 60 or so covers – low ceilings and walls hung with photos of international celebrities who evidently discovered this culinary treasure before you did.

It’s no surprise that fish and seafood in all their guises are the staple at El Mosquito, although the menu offers something for every taste. Start with a slice or two of Empanada (a flat pie with a variety of fillings) along with a glass of white Albariño. Octopus is cooked to delicate perfection and a crusty bread roll warm from the oven might complete the epicurean prelude to your main event.

The restaurant has a considerable menu of fishy delights but don’t dismiss some of the lesser known dishes like “cod throats”. OK, let’s be honest, the description isn’t a winner but the reality is – tender and sweet nuggets with a choice of preparation styles. Sole and hake and other substantial fish are here, and those cooked in Galician fashion are simple and flavourful: a steak of white and moist fish with simply boiled potatoes and a garnish of peas, and the paprika oil adds vivid colour.

It’s unlikely you will make it through to dessert here ...but try. Lots of traditional local favourites to linger over. Sample the cakes with a cup of coffee or a liqueur to finish your evening. You won’t be in a hurry to leave this restaurant and you will promise yourself a return ...as have done many others before you.

El Mosquito Restaurant
Plaza da Pedra, 4 - 36202 Vigo, Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain
Phone/Fax: (+34) 986 433 570
email: info@elmosquitovigo.com
Visit El Mosquito here

Marisqueria Bahia

The hotel which houses Marisqueria Bahia was founded in1968, and in 1999 this striking restaurant was opened. It prides itself on quality foods from that great larder just across the road – the sea. There is plenty of competition in Vigo but Marisqueria Bahia remains the restaurant of choice for the many who come for special occasions and family gatherings.

This restaurant wants to make your visit a fun and memorable experience. Good food should be enjoyed. One should be able to lick fingers and wipe juices from chins, and the repast that will encourage both those practices will be the vast and pedestalled Platter overflowing with crabs, prawns, shrimps, clams and mussels. There are not only cold crustaceans but hot shellfish in saffron sauce, and lightly grilled langoustines with a faint and agreeable hint of charring on the tender meat.

Marisqueria Bahia has a convenient location down by the harbour and it’s bound to be popular with all those lucky souls who are staying in the Hotel Bahia. A seafood platter here is a delightful experience but it’s also an event, an item on your ‘Must Do’ list for Vigo.

Marisqueria Bahia
La Piedra (Calle de las ostras)
Vigo, Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain
Phone: (+34) 986 449 655
Fax: (+34) 986 449 658
Visit Marisqueria Bahia here

Maruja Limón

Rafael Centeno Moyer is a young chef with a stunning contemporary restaurant up a side street in Vigo. One could pass it without even noticing, and that would be a shame.

Maruja Limón was opened in 2001 and is now a magnet for those in the culinary ‘know’ worldwide, as well as the Galician gastronomic grandees, after being awarded a prestigious Michelin star in the 2011 guide.

Chef Rafael Centeno says his food is very simple, with its roots in Galicia and reliant on seasonal ingredients which he sources every day. His dishes are as contemporary and unfussy as his dining room.  Yes, unfussy, but still sophisticated and thoughtful.

It’s a small space with a frosted window onto the kitchen, wood floors and chairs. The menu is changed frequently and takes advantage of what’s good at the market on that day. Many dishes are rustic but presented with flair. One enjoys one’s own plateful but will feast one’s eyes upon the plates of others around the table. A restaurant where one wishes for greater capacity, to have just an extra starter or main course.

Maruja Limón is prestigious and a restaurant to be kept for intimate dinners. It’s special but not glitzy. It’s subtle and confident and truly deserving of its star, and I would suppose that there will be a galaxy of those in chef Rafael Centeno’s firmament before he moves on.

Maruja Limón
Victoria, 4 (Plaza Compostela)
36201, Vigo, Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain
Phone (+34) 986 473 406
reservas@marujalimon.es
Visit Maruja Limón here

Galicia – deliciously diverse

We all have prejudices. We don’t think that we do but that is in itself the nature of a prejudice. I was anxious that this region might be another version of a Costa-something, and I was not quite sure what a visit to northern Spain might hold in store.

I have spent some time in Barcelona and I was impressed by its history, style, charm and I still dream about its food; but what was Galicia going to be like? Well, where was Galicia? Will there be anything to eat when I get there? I can now report that Galicia is a culinary paradise for any lover of food from the sea. What we consider as celebration foods or ‘special treats’ are commonplace here. But it’s always interesting to put those clams and cockles into context.



Galicia is found in the north-west of Spain and has the official status of a nationality within Spain. It comprises several provinces which include A Coruña, Lugo, Ourense and Pontevedra. It is bordered by Portugal to the south which can be reached by bridges at various points. The romantic-sounding regions of Castile & León and Asturias are to the east, the Atlantic forms the western border (next landfall: America), and the choppy Bay of Biscay is to the north.

Galicia has nearly 3 million inhabitants, with most of the population living along the north and west coasts. The capital and the most populous city is Santiago de Compostela, but our main port of call, Vigo, is the second largest with over 200,000 inhabitants.

Galicia has two official languages: Galician (or galego, a Roman language similar to Portuguese) and Spanish (castellano or Castilian). Galician is recognized as the lingua propia ("own language") of Galicia. Tourists will find that even those locals who can only speak Spanish or Galician are always helpful; but a phrasebook and your willingness to make an effort will likely be appreciated.

The name Galicia comes from the Latin name for the region, Gallaecia, associated with the name of the ancient Celtic tribe that lived north of the Douro River. Ptolemy recorded that these people were the first tribe in the area to resist the invading Romans.

There are some well-preserved remains of this ancient castro (fortress) culture not far from the port of Vigo. One can see the foundations of their round huts and a couple have been completely reconstructed to show their thatched roofs. This group lived during the second half of the Iron Age and survived into the Roman era. Later, Galicia fell to the Suevi, and then the Visigoths; during the Moorish invasion of Spain (711-718), the Moors garrisoned Galicia, but never managed to have any real control, and were eventually driven out in 739.

In the 9th century, the followers of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela gave Galicia a particular symbolic importance for Christians who still, in the 21st century, take pilgrimages to the Cathedral there.

In 1833 the Kingdom of Galicia was merged into Spain with its single centralised monarchy. Galicia was spared the worst excesses of the Spanish Civil War as it remained in Nationalist hands for the duration (under General Franco – himself a Galician), although it is said that at least 4,200 people were killed after either a summary trial or no trial at all.

The Galician economy finally began to modernise when Citroën arrived in Vigo, and the factory now makes more than 400,000 vehicles annually. The modernisation of the canning industry and the fishing fleet have also been vital: the major economic engine of western Galicia is its fishing industry. Vigo is the most important Galician port; it is one of the world leaders, second only to Tokyo.

Galicia lands more fish and shellfish than any other region in Europe and these are considered as local staples. The long coast offers both fishermen and shellfish collectors an abundant larder. Galicia's dishes use every kind of fish and seafood and they are prepared in many traditional and contemporary ways.

Our gastronomic tour of Vigo and the area around proved to be a rich and delicious education. We feasted on the bounty of the sea and visited spas to pamper the travel-weary.  So keep visiting Mostly Food Journal over the next few weeks to follow our restaurant route and be tempted by the best seafood in Europe. This is as far from “Full English breakfast all day” and “Happy Hour from 12 noon till 1am” as one can get. A gem of an undiscovered haven for those who want a glimpse of the real Spain and to learn more about its culinary riches.


SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE
PO Box 4009
London , W1A 6NB

Tel: 020 7486 8077

Information and brochure request line:
Phone: 00800 1010 5050

Tel. 020 7486 8077. 
Fax: 020 7486 8034. 

E-mail: spaininfo@tourspain.es

http://www.spain.info

Cookbook review: Tapas – Classic small dishes from Spain

It’s the modern way of enjoying a meal out. Perhaps not even a full meal, but a few small and perfect plates to graze on while sipping a glass of sherry, a full bodied red or a crisp white. Tapas is indeed more popular than ever outside Spain, its country of origin.

Tapas are rumoured to be the contemporary descendants of rounds of savoury-topped bread, that were used to cover glasses to keep dust and flies out of one’s chosen cold beverage. They have developed into the centrepieces of convivial gatherings.

Any book by Elisabeth Luard is bound to be worthwhile. She is rightly considered one of the best of the English-speaking world’s food writers. She has a lilting and almost musical way with words. She embroiders phrases that are almost poetic, often amusing and always apt.

Classic is a word that is oft used but in this case it’s an honest description of this collection of tapas. If you have enjoyed tapas in an authentic bar in Spain then you will find recipes for those familiar dishes here. Croquettes are ubiquitous simply because they are delicious, moreish and the ingredients are inexpensive. Shrimps are a smart filling and this recipe stretches the seafood to the extent that just 4 tablespoons will produce 20 or so croquettes, enough for a starter for four. The key to flavourful success is using a good, rich fish stock to make the basic sauce. The chicken version uses only 4 tablespoons of chicken meat and once again it’s important to use a strong chicken broth for best results. These are perhaps my favourite croquettes.

Small pasties are popular all over South America and Spain. Each country or region has its own filling and each one reflects the best of local ingredients. There are a variety of pastry options ranging from ready-made pastry to a rich oil pastry reminiscent of that used in British pork pies. Many of these Empanadas contain meat and spices, others have tuna or vegetables. They are ideal finger-food for drinks parties or as starters.

Salt cod is something of an acquired taste but Bunuelos de Bacalao are popular on traditional tapas menus. I personally adore that creamy, salty, fishy potato mash inside a crispy fried shell. They take a little time to prepare because the dried fish needs soaking in several changes of water, but the end result is worth the effort.

The ubiquitous tapa, and a favourite with even the fussiest of eaters, is Spanish omelette. It has few ingredients and it’s a simple dish to cook. There is a knack to turning the tortilla and this might fill the novice cook with fear, but persist and you will have a potato cake of which to be proud. Serve cut into substantial wedges along with a few of the other suggestions from this delightful book.

Cookbook review: Tapas – Classic small dishes from Spain
Author: Elisabeth Luard
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £15.99
ISBN 978-1-908117-02-1

Londo restaurant review: Hummus Bros – Fun family fare

An invitation to review Hummus Bros! Aren’t they a tailoring company? Posh morning coats for hire, wedding togs? Perhaps dinner jackets – it’s a restaurant review site, after all. No, dear sartorially inclined reader, Hummus Bros are a couple of lads (although not actually brothers) who have opened three rather unique casual restaurants with take-away counters.



Well, there are lots of casual eateries strewn across the length and breadth of London, so what makes Hummus Bros so noteworthy? It’s the food on offer. No sign of a cool-cabinet stuffed with under-stuffed iffy sarnies. No aroma of greasy burgery bits in buns, and the food here is a world away from dubious cheap ethnic lunches.

So what do Hummus Bros sell? Hummus! We have all bought little tubs of this from our local supermarkets where it’s presented as a delicate spread, an addition to a summer buffet table rather than any sort of main event. We just don’t quite know what to do with it but we buy it because it makes us look cosmopolitan.

This chickpea confection has not, until now, been part of the UK culinary tradition. Only a few of us have fond memories of the hummus our grandmothers used to make. But we would have said the same of Indian food a few years ago.

Hummus Bros presents the eponymous dish as a real meal and although that’s new to us here, it is very much a part of the Middle Eastern fashion of eating. It’s a food that ticks all the practical and epicurean boxes for me. It’s typical comfort food with a creamy texture and mild flavour. It’s natural and healthy and it’s easy to eat – in fact so easy that you don’t even need cutlery, although those nice brothers do provide ecologically sound wooden forks for the overly genteel.

Hummus is converted from a snack into a meal by the addition of flavourful toppings. There are selections of standards that are advertised on the menu and there are weekly specials to keep the regulars engaged. For those who want to perk up the paste there are bottles of garlic and lemon to sprinkle. Mixed vegetable salad, tabouleh (bulgar wheat with finely chopped red peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, coriander, parsley and mint – authentic with lots of herbs), Greek salad, smoky barbecued aubergine, falafel salad are all offered as side dishes.

There are two sizes available: a small bowl of topped hummus constitutes a light lunch, and a regular portion is a dinner for the seriously peckish. The mushroom topping with caramelised onions is a sweet vegetarian option for those who want a hearty and flavourful meal. All bowls of hummus have brown fluffy pitta bread included: delicious, and acting as your edible scoop.

Committed carnivores will note that Hummus Bros is not a preachy, worthy, tie-dye, sandal- toting kinda place. The food isn’t about feeling noble it’s about feeling full, so chunky beef – a seasonal, slow cooked stew of tender meat – is one of the suggested toppings, and it’s truly melting. There is also chicken and that, along with guacamole, is the most popular of garnishes.

I am a collector of cookbooks so a 5,000-year old recipe was bound to grab my attention.  Fava beans with slow-cooked free-range egg is a popular breakfast dish in Egypt. I had heard about it but here was my chance to try it. Anything that’s been on the menu for that long has evidently got something going for it. After one bowl I am hooked. It’s a must-try signature dish of smooth hummus and rich, soft beans with slices of tinted eggs, the addition of which turns a sustaining meal into a feast. I agree it might not sound a stunner, but it will likely turn you away from those golden arches.

Talking of fast food outlets... nothing wrong with them, the problem rests with us, the buying public. If we eat those burgers in moderation then we have nothing to fear. They provide a meal on the trot and we have all enjoyed them from time to time when those hunger pangs kick in and a Mcwendyking is all that’s handy. But we want to encourage our kids to adopt good eating habits, healthy foods that they will be keen to eat. Hummus Bros could take the place of burger bars and huts of pizza. Hummus is kid friendly. The texture is appealing to even the fussiest of toddlers. The standard dish of hummus with a helping of chickpeas is fun to eat, with no strong seasonings. Tiny fingers will grab the peas and little hands will dip the pitta. No crusts to chew so that’s yet another hurdle out of the way. This food isn’t dumbed down for children but you will find that they will love to eat just the same dishes as mum and dad; and mum and dad will love that the kids are eating! Good for most folks with allergies, as well.

Hummus Bros is keen to stress its eco-friendly philosophy but you won’t become a regular here for that reason. You’ll return for the food.

Hummus Bros
88 Wardour Street, Soho, London W1F 0TJ
Phone: 020 7734 1311

Victoria House, 37-63 Southampton Row, London WC1B 4DA
Phone: 020 7404 7079

128 Cheapside, London EC2V 6BT
Phone: 020 7726 8011

Email: info@hbros.co.uk
Visit Hummus Bros here

London restaurant review: Penny Black for Dinner

The Fulham Road isn’t my usual hunting ground, although it’s well served by public transport and easily accessible, but after my recent dining experience I may well become a habitué of that neighbourhood. Penny Black sits at number 212 as a tastefully understated icon of real British Food, and is unique in several regards.
The name comes from the stamp, or more accurately some prints of that philatelic classic. It wasn’t a long-lived symbol of Victorian communication but it was a trail-blazer, and the eponymous restaurant might well become just that for the culinary scene in this area. Tony Ho and his two partners have 3 life-times worth of experience in opening restaurants, so longevity can reasonably be assured.

The facade is in fact quite muted: a vision of charcoal grey and simple frosted windows. Those windows do hide the interior somewhat, but I rather favour the anonymity and those windows could become a trade-mark for future restaurants – well, I can imagine that anything this good is bound to become a small and classy chain. 

There were a couple of tables outside and those were already occupied by diners enjoying a glass of British fizz chosen from the quite remarkable wine list, in fact a chunky catalogue offering many noteworthy wines, almost all by the glass. Tony Ho has a passion for wine, and that’s proving to be an asset now that he has his own establishment.

One enters to find that mysterious interior is in fact contemporary and welcoming. A small lounge area has become popular for pre-meal drinks, and for leisurely coffees after what is sure to be a copious and full-on feed. Hospitality is generous here and one is bound to linger. Tony explained that they wanted to create a home-from-home for their guests – the foodie equivalent of the old-fashioned pub for the drinking fraternity. A place to bring the family for Sunday lunch (soon to be reviewed here).

The décor is tasteful and unfussy with aubergine and white walls which sport not only those Penny Blacks but other pop-art prints and a rather rude Salvador Dali. (Sit your granny under that and she will never notice, although she will wonder why everyone is smiling at her.) Crisp white linen reinforces the impression that this is probably going to be a fine dining restaurant – traditional food but a high-end experience.

I would describe the menu as British, comforting, vibrant and inspiring.  It’s not retro but it is definitely traditional. The ingredients are fresh and seasonal, and showcase the best from these shores and inland as well. Favourite and simple dishes, and some innovations.

It was a hot evening so a salad was on the cards for this sticky reviewer. Ham, goat’s cheese and peaches garnished with mixed leaves was a substantial plateful. The ham was hand carved, moist and delicious, the cheese tangy and the peaches ripe, sweet and summery.  A flavourful introduction to the high standards of both presentation and style.

My guest chose Potted Devon shrimps, watercress, and wholemeal toast. The shrimps had the real taste of the sea. The recipient of this bounty was born and bred on the coast and he proclaimed this seafood dish to be as good as his childhood memories of Sunday teatime. A must-try whenever it’s on the menu.

Toad in the Hole was my main course. This isn’t a dish with which to be cheffy. Real toads and a batter made with crushed Mongolian blue wheat flour isn’t the way to go when preparing such a British standard. The reality at Penny Black was just what you would hope to find: an individual pud with three well-seasoned and meaty bangers, a garnish of lightly cooked carrots and broccoli, and gravy on the side. I would describe this as “right” and that’s just how it should be.

The Beef Wellington here is already a signature dish and it’s easy to see why. This was a manly meal of tender and pink-tinged meat encased in flaky pastry. This is the posh face of standard British cuisine. It is, in my experience, a difficult dish to do well at home and one best left to the experts. Meat isn’t  cheap and you don’t want to ruin it so come to Penny Black instead. My guest was glowing with replete satisfaction... but he still had space for dessert.

What could be more comforting than Bread and Butter Pudding? It was a regular highlight for dinner at grandma’s.  It’s an economic dessert and a comforting stunner. It should be custardy and unctuous and piping hot; this one ticked all the boxes.

Penny Black will stick longer than the stamp ever did. One can try and analyse the reasons it will, but it’s probably enough to say that it’s quite simply everything  a good British restaurant should be. It has already attracted followers who first came out of curiosity, but who return because the food and the service will be predictably good.

Opening Hours
Tuesday to Saturday: 12 noon - 3pm Lunch, 6pm - 11pm Dinner
Sunday: 12 noon - 10:30pm Lunch and Dinner
Closed Mondays

London restaurant review: Penny Black  Restaurant
212 Fulham Road, Chelsea, London SW10 9PJ
Phone: 0845 838 8998
Email: info@thepennyblack.com
Visit Penny Black here

London restaurant review:

Bavarian Beerhouse - Tower Hill

What can be more iconic than the Tower of London? Its imposing stones and gilded embellishments still have that wow factor. The building must have filled the local population with awe when first erected back in the early 1080s. William the Conqueror began to build a massive tower at the centre of his London home, and down the centuries successive kings have added to the complex.

So you have spent a day of leisure by the Thames. You have had a guided tour with a Yeoman. (Not to be missed: each of these gentlemen has had years of service in the army and has rafts of stories to tell.) You now need some food. A proper meal. Something hearty, reasonable price, not too exotic as Martha gets hiccoughs if she eats spice, and Abner likes a slice of meat that he can recognise.

Bavarian Beerhouse at Tower Hill (there is another branch at Old Street) opened in May 2010. It’s just 50 metres from Tower Hill Underground station and built under the railway bridge just to the right of the station exit. The previous tenants were Pitcher and Piano but it seems it was time for a change. It’s rumoured that the Bavarian Beerhouse tripled their predecessor’s revenue within the first month.

The Old Street venue was very much a party place but Tower Hill has loftier horizons... at least on the ground floor. This is a cool, contemporary restaurant space with Bavarian accents. There are some of the traditional benches and rustic touches but the ambiance, at least during the day and early evening, is of casual but calm dining.

The basement level boasts several adjoining rooms and has an atmosphere similar to that of the Old Street branch. This is more for the lads’ night out or for blokey gatherings to watch sports and the like. A stag-night favourite, one would imagine. Those long benches again and low ceilings and its own bar. The basement is ideal for private functions.

We, an elderly and sedate couple, were seeking some food rather than a shot-drinking competition. I loved the food at Old Street and it’s just as good at Tower Hill. It’s a shame that German food is taken as something of a joke. These are  real and unfussy dishes, and I am a fan. There are sausages aplenty as one would expect, and pork shanks to satisfy the most robust of rugby players, but I love Jäger Schnitzel - pork escalope topped with a creamy mushroom sauce and served with a mound of thin fries. One needs to come hungry to take advantage of these large portions.

May has a ‘special’: White Asparagus from Germany (Weisser Deutscher Spargel aus Deutschland). It’s an annual festival of this unique vegetable, thicker than the usual green asparagus and with a delicate flavour. There are various dishes showcasing these creamy white and chunky spears: a soup, or simply served with sauce and boiled potatoes, or with Black Forest ham. My companion chose breaded pork escalope topped with white asparagus and Hollandaise sauce, garnished with fried potatoes. A substantial plateful which was pronounced a winner.

Too full for a dessert we did succumb to shots. No, we didn’t down them in one gulp and we only tried one each, as a journey the length of the District Line beckoned. My guest ordered the Oktoberfest Pudding Schnapps which was berry-based, sweet and dark – almost Christmassy. I was taken by the Apple Schnapps (Apfelkorn) because I reasoned it would constitute one of my 5 a day. This was a stunner and I could happily have consumed several more had time allowed. Perhaps I have an excuse for a return visit.

Bavarian Beerhouse - Tower Hill is bound to be popular. It’s evidently already the preferred staging post for local workers and couples heading West for evenings out. It’s a light, bright and friendly spot to enjoy good traditional fare. I wish it continued success.

London Restaurant review: Bavarian Beerhouse - Tower Hill
The Arches, 9 Crutched Friars, London EC3N 2AU
Phone 0844 330 20 05
Email: info@bavarian-beerhouse.co.uk
Visit Bavarian Beerhouse here

Bavarian Beerhouse - Old Street
190 City Road, London EC1V 2QH

Opening Times
Mon - Thur 12pm - 11pm
Friday 12pm - 1am
Saturday 1pm - 1am
Sunday 12pm - 9pm

Cookbook review: Rose Petal Jam –
Recipes and Stories from a Summer in Poland

The very title ‘Rose Petal Jam’ evokes shimmering heat-hazed visions of meadows, trees, clear sky, and perfume wafting on a warm breeze. One could be anywhere: England on an August afternoon, perhaps Italy when the world is quiet after lunch. But this book concerns itself with Poland, and it is enticing.

Rose Petal Jam – Recipes and Stories from a Summer in Poland allows me to indulge my twin passions of food and travel. It masterfully charts a path between cookbook and travelogue, and is an illustration of how something can grow to be more than the sum of its parts.

Beata Zatorska had penned a cookbook, but wouldn’t it have been lacking something without those touching family stories? She has written a charming travel book about her beloved Poland, and food has always been central to the country, its culture and its heritage. Who could describe Poland and not mention a few of its celebrated dishes? Beata has achieved a balance that will enthral the home cook and have those with itchy feet reaching for the AA Big Road Atlas (now extended eastwards).

These are not just random Polish recipes. This book is an archive of Beata’s grandmother’s dishes. She was herself a chef and passed on her passion for food to her granddaughter. So many of the dishes included have a story – like the stuffed eggs that Beata’s grandmother served the anxious youngster on the day of her exams. Those exams allowed Beata eventually to become a doctor.

The Polish kitchen makes the very best of seasonal produce. There is nothing exotic here, but this book does present a raft of unique (to us in the UK, at least) ideas for using fruit, vegetables and meat. There are no extravagant ingredients. You will likely have everything you need already in your larder or at your local grocers. It won’t be necessary to buy ethnic kitchen gadgets imported from Warszawa.

Kisiel – Strawberry Fruit Pudding – is a good example of the style of practical, simple and economic recipes here. Few ingredients, and not a costly dish if one uses fruit at its summery best rather than making this for Boxing Day with southern-hemisphere strawberries.

The British climate allows us to take full advantage of wintery dishes for a full nine months of the year, so I have already pencilled in Potato Dumplings to garnish a rich and flavourful Polish Beef Goulash. This is a little different from the Hungarian version, which is traditionally more of a soup than a stew. A tablespoon of dill is the surprise ingredient here.

Pierogi are the Polish equivalent of ravioli and my favourites are those filled with potatoes and cheese. They are described as Russian Pierogi but they are ubiquitous at the Polish dinner table ...unless my Polish friends are really Russians. Serve with melted butter and a garnish of tangy sour cream or even crème fraîche.

We are becoming more familiar with Polish food in the UK. There are numerous supermarkets offering Polish delicacies in jar and tin, but we are finding more cafés and delis with shelves and counters laden with cakes and pastries and ready-made meals. I have not yet come across Rose Petal Jam but now I can make my own ...along with a few bottles of pepper vodka ...and perhaps a dish of sweet Angel Wings alongside. Buy two copies of this book: keep one on the book shelves as a travel guide for the food lover, and leave the other, soon to be butter-smeared, in the kitchen as a well-used cookbook and a reminder of the reasons you will want to visit Poland.

This is a sumptuous and heart-warming book with stunning photography by Beata’s husband, Simon Target. So this is a family food memoir that we are invited to borrow. The memories might not be ours but a trip to Poland will rectify that.

Cookbook review: Rose Petal Jam – Recipes and Stories from a Summer in Poland
Author: Beata Zatorska, Photography by Simon Target
Published by: Tabula Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN: 978-0-9566992-0-6

Restaurant review: Fusion Brasserie Worcestershire for dinner

One can search for Italian food in all the famous towns that boast true Italian or Tuscan culinary heritage: Florence, Siena, Hawbridge, Pisa, Grosseto. We take advantage of fresh produce, delicious dressed pasta and desserts fit to ruin any diet. The tourist soaks up the history of those Italian... but... Hawbridge doesn’t sound very Italian. Well, it truly is a long way from Italy but it can still be described as a culinary hub, and in our own very accessible Worcestershire.

This transplantation is not due to continental drift. It’s just the home of Fusion Brasserie and it’s the showcase for celebrated Chef Felice Tocchini, who has had a surprisingly long career. He got his first job in the food and beverage industry at the tender age of six – his parents had a bar in a Tuscan village and it was Felice's job to make the coffee.

The experience at the espresso machine obviously inspired Felice. At fourteen, he embarked on a three-year cookery course at the Ferdinando Martini Catering College in Montecatini Terme. He worked in hotel kitchens and ski resorts during his holidays. In 1988 he was invited to join the Royal Shakespeare Theatre restaurants as a Commis Chef. Later, Felice became head chef at the Seymour House Hotel in Chipping Campden and eventually became Chef Manager, remaining there for over 15 years.

In 2004 Felice and his wife Fiorinda opened their own restaurant. Fusion opened originally in Alcester; eighteen months later they moved to a more suitable site and that was the Bird in Hand, Hawbridge, Stoulton, Worcestershire, where they’ve now settled.

Felice now owns two award-winning restaurants in Worcestershire - Fusion Brasserie and Fusion Too. His wife and son Daniel work with him, Fiorinda as front of house manager and Daniel as a chef. Felice is passionate about local ingredients and works with growers and producers to promote even the least-adored veggies like the humble sprout. The menu changes with the seasons so every visit will offer something new.

We were looking forward to good food in a casual and contemporary restaurant. Contemporary, yes, but Fusion isn’t stark and minimalist. The walls are painted and unfussy, but the muted maroon and cream were thoughtful colours that helped to create a cosy ambiance in an open restaurant space. I was very much taken by the unique salt and pepper mills on each table. These and other food-related products can be yours with no need to resort to theft. Fusion has its own shop displaying the chef’s food products and local crafts.

We had earlier enjoyed a good lunch and arrived less than ravenous, so settled on what we thought would be moderate-sized dishes. But this truly was a little bit of Italy and we soon realised that we would go home stuffed and contented.

We started with breads and dips – Pane casereccio – artisan breads, served with sun-blush tomato and fusion hummus. This was a considerable display of the chef’s baking skills as well as a presentation of simple yet flavourful spreads. Some fruity olive oil and balsamic vinegar wafted us back to a much less comfortable restaurant in southern Italy many years ago. No, the best Italian restaurants are not necessarily back in the old country. It has more to do with integrity of ingredients than geography.

My companion was tempted by the prospect of some beef - Filetto al Piatto. Thin slices of Aberdeen Angus placed on an extremely hot plate arrived sizzling and in theatrical fashion, aromatic with garlic and herbs. The chunky chips were indeed just that – chunky, crisp on the outside with fluffy interior.  My guest was delighted with his meal and pronounced the meat to be tender and full of flavour. A deceptively simple dish that once again relies on the quality of the key ingredient. This is a restaurant that has confidence in its suppliers.

I felt a pasta was in order. Fusion is, after all, an Italian restaurant. Just a modest bowl of oil- and garlic-dressed pasta with some sweet sprouting greens was what I expected and that’s what I got. Well, not a modest bowl – remember, this is transplanted Italy. The pasta was cooked, as one would expect, to perfection – al dente. Oil, but just enough, chilli sufficient to create a glow, and garlic just for pure rich flavour. A classic dish and enough to defeat a rugby player.

Fiorinda tempted us with a little taste of dessert. Six little culinary masterpieces arrived and proved the rule that states that however full one is there is always a little nook available for something sweet. We nibbled sponge pudding, savoured sorbet, treated ourselves to just another bite of tiramisu... The list seemed endless but we enjoyed those sweets so much that we were glad it was.

We had intended an early night but in true Italian fashion the conversation with our hosts flowed freely. This chef is generous. Yes, the portions are substantial but his generosity extends not only to plates but to people. His passion and pride are evident. His skill is unquestionable and his enthusiasm contagious. A warm evening of marvellous food and friendship.

Opening Times Fusion Brasserie:
Lunch: Tues-Sat 11.30am-3.00pm (last orders 2.30pm)
Dinner: 5.30pm-close (last orders 9.30pm)
Sunday: 12.00 pm - 4.00 pm (last orders 2.30pm)  

Restaurant review: Fusion Brasserie
Hawbridge, Stoulton, Worcestershire WR7 4RJ.
Phone: +44 (0)1905 840647.
Email: enquiries@fusionbrasserie.com
Visit Fusion Brasserie here

Cookbook review: Master Cakes – Eric Lanlard

Eric Lanlard is a familiar face on TV (his Channel 4 series Glamour Puds was a sweet travelogue of patisseries) and he has a voice that reminds us of the reason that we, women at least, still feel that a French accent is charming and perhaps a little romantic. The reality is that you won’t hear Eric’s silky Celtic-French tones as you turn the pages of this book; but turn them you will, just because it’s a stunningly beautiful volume – and practical.

Even if you had never heard of Eric Lanlard you would surely know the name Albert Roux. He was one of the most well-known chefs in Britain, a household name and celebrated proprietor of Le Gavroche. A young Eric took his place as part of Albert’s team and made his mark. It is a testament to this man’s skill and professionalism that Albert wrote the foreword to this book – a warm personal endorsement.

I would say that this book would appeal most to a confident cake-baker and decorator, although there are plenty of basic cake, cream and icing recipes here for the raw beginner. Included are techniques for presenting a cake that can be embellished with your own ideas using fresh flowers and ribbons.

Some of these sweet confections demand hardware in the form of cake cards, plastic blocks, and boards (I now know they are called cake drums), but others just need a steady hand and a bit of practice. My advice would be to perfect your icing on a silicone sheet before volunteering to ice your daughter’s wedding cake.

There are some truly striking cakes here. Plenty of innovation and imagination. One cake takes us on a stroll through lavender fields of the south of France. A few pages later we are marvelling at the orange-red exuberance of a Bollywood extravaganza. In many ways this cake is the easiest to decorate but it has the over-the-top impact of a Mumbai musical – loud and entertaining.

So many of these decorating suggestions can be adapted to different-sized and shaped cakes. The colours can be adjusted to suit your special occasion. That red Bollywood masterpiece can become a ‘golden’ golden wedding cake with just the swish of a sari – or more realistically a kitchen paintbrush. That pile of individual lavender cakes can be transformed into a summer birthday cake for sophisticated Francophiles.

The American Retro cake is the one that I would choose for a high-end celebration. Three tiers of pink/white-iced cakes bound with dark brown velvet ribbon. The sides of the cakes are simply decorated with delicate dots of chocolate brown icing. Very much a case of less being more – understated and very adult.

The first cake I’ll make from Master Cakes will likely be the Red Berry Romance. It’s not that I am overly romantic; it’s more that it’s the simplest to decorate. It requires little skill but the resulting centrepiece will be memorable. The version in this book is made with white chocolate and red berries but a remarkable alternative could be made with dark chocolate and a dusting of gold.

Master Cakes by Eric Lanlard is a one-stop tutor for all of us who want to perfect our cake decorating and presentation skills. The step-by-step pictures allow a relative novice to produce cakes with that professional edge. There is a selection of cake recipes, or use your family favourites. However, it’s the decoration that will have your guests singing your praises. Lots of advice, too, on equipment and tricks of the trade. This must be one of the best-value books on the subject.

Cookbook review: Master Cakes
Author: Eric Lanlard
Published by: Hamlyn
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-600-62262-8