Updated 18th February 2012
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Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel - London
It’s the location of The Grafton that is part of its appeal. Many hotels boast “good transport links” but The Grafton could hardly have a better position. Some guests at the hotel might be fortunate enough to have a suite with a view over an iconic London Underground station. Warren Street tube is right next door and there is a veritable fleet of red buses on the doorstep to enable the tourist to travel like a local.
The Grafton is close to the theatres of the West End, as well as museums, the vibrant Camden Market and thousands of shops for clothes, shoes and every other element of sartorial elegance. This neighbourhood of London offers a base from which to explore near and far.
The Grafton has the ambiance of a small boutique hotel even though it has 330 rooms and suites. It’s been sympathetically refurbished to retain many of the original features of the oldest part of the hotel, that dates back to the start of the 20th century. It won’t take the visitor long to notice the ornate ceiling mouldings, the occasional pillar and a striking staircase in the lobby. There are still the dark wood and leaded glass hall doors on the upper floors, as well as some stained glass.
The owners have not been content to just freshen the paint. They have made a striking design statement with lavish use of tasteful Asian art in all its guises. One is welcomed by a couple of black woolly llamas with magnificent golden heads. The dining room has a wall swimming with gold and silver fish, and every hallway has frames filled with jewellery and carvings. There is a lot of Asian objets d’art but its display is subtle.
The Grafton is a 4-star hotel that is full of amenity. It appeals to business travellers – each room has a practical array of sockets and even provision of 110 volts for US appliances. There is a well-equipped business centre with computers and printers for those travelling light. There are 14 meeting rooms for groups of varying sizes and demands, and this is an ideal hotel for conferences and events, able to accommodate up to 110 people.
The Aston Bar and Restaurant was our wintery evening refuge and it’s impressive with the largest pewter (or is it zinc?) bar in London. The counter is original and tactile and reminds you why people turn to drink. It’s an event just to pull up a high stool and lean on that silver-grey metal and sip a signature Martini. Be transported back to the buzzing 1930s when this spot was the HQ for the Aston Martin Club.
This is smart casual dining, in surroundings that encourage lingering. Mirrors, columns, vibrant upholstery, textured walls; high ceilings combine to create a light and airy dining room that reflects both contemporary and original opulence.
The restaurant offers a seasonal British-inspired menu. There are twists on old favourites but lots of unadulterated traditional fare that will appeal to local and tourist alike.
Kidderton Ash goat’s cheese panna cotta, with apple and walnut salad and beetroot dressing was my guest’s choice of starter. A delightful presentation of creamy mild and slightly tangy cheese complemented by that beetroot dressing which gave both colour and sweetness. It seems to be the ingredient of the moment and finds its way into both savoury and sweet preparations in some of the best restaurants just now.
Roast butternut squash, Jerusalem artichoke and red pepper salad, with chestnuts, toasted pumpkin seeds and a honey dressing was my light starter. The squash and artichoke were both tender and flavoursome and it’s good to see Jerusalem artichokes showcasing in something other than soup. Well-balanced dressing and crunch from nuts make this a must-try.
My guest is a man who is developing a taste for offal. It’s becoming more popular in restaurants as prices of regular meat cuts increase, and we are driven to at least sample some of those almost-forgotten frugal dishes of yesteryear. Grilled calves liver with thyme and onion purée, mashed potatoes, and grilled back bacon was my guest’s choice and it honestly was delicious. I am not often drawn to liver but calves liver doesn’t have any of the oft off-putting pungency of other livers from older and more mature animals. This was a hearty old-fashioned dish and a must-try for those who want to taste liver for the first time. If you eat meat then surely you will agree that we should be eating and enjoying every cut from nose to tail.
I don’t usually choose steak but this was a special Rib-eye steak (aged for 28 days) from Northern Ireland, served with grilled vine tomatoes, chips and peppercorn sauce. A simple piece of meat with unfussy garnish is comfort food and a treat. That hanging does develop flavour and the meat was meltingly tender. The chips were chunky and just the sort to eat sans cutlery.
Baked thin apple tart and toffee sauce was the flaky, light and deliciously decadent dessert. One must always be drawn to a pud that requires 20 minutes’ notice. Every individual tart is cooked to order and these are moreish. It’s that classic combination of hot fruit and cold ice cream that adds to the pleasure; and remember that The Grafton does have a Gym!
Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel is full of character and plenty of facilities. The location makes this popular lodgings for family fun as well as business. The newly refurbished rooms are comfortable with a very individual charm that one would not expect from a chain hotel. There are plenty of restaurants in the area but The Aston can face that competition with confidence.
Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel
130 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 5AY
Phone: +44 (0) 20 7388 4131
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7387 7394
resgraf@radisson.com
Radisson Edwardian Grafton Hotel here
The Yeatman Hotel and the first couple of Port
Natasha and her husband Adrian have been described as the ‘first couple of Port’. That might sound an extravagant monica but it truly sums up the regard in which these two are held. She is the eldest daughter of Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman’s chairman, Alistair Robertson, who inherited the business in 1966 following the death of Dick Yeatman, his uncle. Natasha is the seventh generation of the Taylor Fladgate and Yeatman dynasty and is the head blender for the Taylor Fladgate Partnership. Founded in 1692, Taylor, Fladgate and Yeatman is one of the oldest port wine houses, and one of the largest. It owns the brands of Fonseca, Taylor, and Croft.
Adrian met his wife in 1982 and joined the family firm in 1994.
This
was
his
third
career,
being
first
an
officer
in The 1st Queen’s Dragoon
Guards. He later worked in the banking industry and in 1994 he and
Natasha moved to Portugal full-time, where he assumed responsibility
for Taylor’s Port and Fonseca Port in the UK and USA arenas. In 2000,
he formally took on the role of Managing Director of the Taylor Fonseca
Port Group. Adrian is a keen sportsman and has represented Great
Britain at bobsledding – one can picture him scudding down the Douro
Valley through the vines.In 2010, The Yeatman Hotel was finally launched. It’s an outstanding luxury wine hotel and has been Adrian’s project for over 5 years. It has evidently involved the whole family, as Natasha’s mum had much to do with the interior decoration and she has done a magnificent job.
One might expect this couple to be stiff and unapproachable. They are well used to the company of kings, politicians, notables from the world over. Adrian and Natasha both come from good “stock” but they are natural, friendly and put their guests at ease. They are passionately dedicated to showcasing quality hospitality in all its guises, and their staff have the same enthusiasm. Everyone is unobtrusively attentive and knowledgeable about the hotel, food and wine – this is, after all, a wine hotel.
The Yeatman is full of surprises. One approaches a hotel that gives the impression of a contemporary European bungalow. Step inside and the perception changes. A huge reception area with imposing staircase, pillars and statue of Bacchus greet the travel-weary. This striking lad must be an image of the god as a youngster: most other representations present him as a well-padded chap with hints of Santa. This “David”-like figure matches the elegance of his new home.
The lifts pay homage to the Douro with images covering all sides with a 360-degree panorama. Another elevator takes younger visitors to the bespoke Kid's Club. That one gives one the impression of being lifted in a hot-air
balloon. There is great humour in this hotel
that could have been so dry, worthy, academic and remote, the preserve
of the “old school”. The Yeatman will be appreciated by all those with
a taste for the finer things of life but it has wide appeal. Older
folks will enjoy the traditional luxury, couples can indulge in some
pampering, and families can take advantage of the unbeatable location.
It’s truly a hotel for all seasons.The Yeatman is built on the sloping hillside opposite Porto city, in Vila Nova de Gaia (easy access across the bridge). It’s constructed with terraces replicating the distinctive vineyards of the Douro Valley an hour’s drive away. The Yeatman flatters and harmonizes with the landscape. This cascading design allows every room to take advantage of the terracotta-roofed cityscape across the river. The sun sets and the view changes to give a romantic ambiance to the private balconies.
The public spaces act as a gallery for paintings and artwork reflecting the history of the region and the country in general, all impeccably displayed. There
is
a
collection
of
roosters
(the
iconic
symbol
of
Portugal) painted and
embellished by students. Maps, watercolours, sculpture, and photography
– it’s all found a home at the Yeatman.There is so much here that gives a nod to wine, its production and consumption. The suites are named after wines, the walls are hung with wine-related pictures, and every room is sponsored by a producer. The 67 wine companies each take a turn hosting a Thursday evening wine-tasting dinner, which is very reasonably priced and popular with locals and visitors alike.
The 82 rooms are predictably well-appointed. Each one is different with individually-chosen soft furnishings, and books carefully selected for the edification and entertainment of guests. There will likely be a copy of Charles Metcalf’s Wines of Portugal and also a slim volume entitled 1066 and All That. At first glance that might seem a rather random literary inclusion but take a look at the cover: one of the authors is a Yeatman, and a relative of Natasha. This book continues the tone of the hotel in general – a mix of contemporary and classic features, of whimsy and substance.
Adrian had sustainability at the forefront of this new build. Solar panels are used for heating water, and photovoltaic cells generate electricity to reduce consumption of the regular mains power. Low-energy lighting is installed throughout the building and rainwater is collected and stored for flushing loos and sprinkling
the
garden.
A
reverse-osmosis
system
converts
tap
water
into
purified
drinking water, so the hotel is self-sufficient without the need to buy
bottled ‘eau-not-so-naturelle’ with all its baggage of transport miles,
processing and packaging.This is the Yeatman so their full wine list is as thick as a bible and features around 800 Portuguese wines and 80 international wines. Their cellar is open for inspection for a couple of hours each day with a display of 25,000 or so bottles, many of which are unique and will be sought by the enthusiast. The racks are arranged geographically with some New World vintages in the corner at the back for those with no soul who would actually want a cheeky little Californian rosé when visiting this land of such memorable local wines.
Along with fine wine goes fine dining. Chef Ricardo Costa is one of the leaders of a new generation of culinary innovators in Portugal, recently winning a Michelin star for The Yeatman. He attended the School of
Hospitality and Tourism of
Coimbra where he honed his technical skills and fed his passion for the
artistry of food. He has graced the kitchens of several hotels and
restaurants in mainland Portugal, Madeira, Spain and England before
settling at the Yeatman.It’s obvious that any chef would want to be at the helm of a kitchen in his home land, but I have the sense that Ricardo must be particularly pleased that his gastronomic ship is newly launched and has the most sophisticated, not to mention spacious, kitchen of any hotel. The owners have devoted an extraordinary amount of space to cooking. There are walk-in fridges aplenty and a specialist station for almost every course or function. There is even a space devoted to room service, and a separate kitchen just for breakfast.
Ricardo offers dishes that are unmistakably special but he clings to the essence of Portuguese cuisine, tempting with flavours of traditional ingredients prepared and presented with delicious flair. His food entices and intrigues before calming and charming the diner. This is skilled cooking that, although cheffy, never forgets its
origins.
This
is
serious
food
that
contrives
to
amuse
but the bottom line is,
most importantly, it tastes great.We dined on shrimps and mackerel as starters. The Yeatman’s proximity to the Atlantic is evident in a menu with so many fresh seafood dishes. Lots here for the committed carnivore, though. The veal was blushing and tender in its pastry crust and the lamb chops should be a signature dish. The desserts were beautiful, and the vanilla ice cream, figs and diced sweet beetroot was a triumph. Do try the local cheese platter, and you might consider a glass of port to go along with that – I’m sure they’ll find one somewhere. The menu changes to offer guests the seasonal best from the market but be assured that Chef Ricardo will transform those ingredients into dishes with that unmistakable Michelin magic.
Smoking is not allowed in the public areas of The Yeatman but there is a haven for those wanting a fragrant after-dinner cigar and that’s The Study. OK, so it’s a change from the Victorian tradition of ladies retiring and leaving the gentlemen at table passing the port and puffing, but both ladies and gents will delight in spending a little time in this book-bedecked idyll.
The Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa is just what you
would expect of the Yeatman, offering a wide
selection of wellbeing and relaxation facilities including a Roman
bath, tepidarium, hammam, shower experience and sauna. Space to sit and
unwind, a dip in the pool and a treatment can all be yours. Keeping
with the theme there is even a staircase fashioned from a wine barrel,
and the walls have ancient and gnarled vines as objets-d’art. Treat
your body and mind with such programmes as a Barrel Bath immersion, or
a Merlot Wrap. They take advantage of natural ingredients from the
vineyard with their antioxidant properties, and many of the treatments
can be enjoyed by couples. The lounging area will have you nodding off
over that latest paperback or enjoying that celebrated panoramic view
across the river to the city. A break at this hotel and spa will offer
a romantic retreat and with such affordable luxury you could become
regulars.Adrian says he wants The Yeatman to be the foremost destination for Portuguese wine, and an ambassador for Porto and Portugal in general. I would say he has already succeeded and it’s still early days. It’s a platform of viticultural and culinary excellence with some really comfy beds.
Spa Treatments available:
Luxury Moment for Two
- Champagne Afternoon Tea
- Divine Duo Massage
- Gift
- Tea
- Divine Duo
- Cranial Massage
- Gift
- Tea
- Grape Bath
- Crushed Cabernet Scrub
- Gift
- Tea
The Yeatman Hotel
Rua do Choufelo
4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Phone: +351 22 013 3100Fax: +351 22 013 3199
Visit The Yeatman here
Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5
The new and striking Terminal 5 at Heathrow has some of the best shops around as well some as some good restaurants. They range from the casual and humble sandwich bars to the refined dining venues such as Gordon Ramsay's restaurant which offers a classic dining experience as well as take-away meals for in-flight enjoyment. Yes, plenty of delicious food at the Terminal.
But what of those who are staying? Holidaymakers on the way out or on the way into the UK, and businessmen who need a well-equipped base with good transport connections to central London. Hilton Heathrow Airport Terminal 5 could well fit the bill for both workers and wanderers alike; the Hilton also offers easy access to the M4 and M25.
This particular Hilton isn’t at the terminal but it’s associated with it and just a short distance away. Shuttle buses provide transport every half hour or so for travellers. It’s a quiet location with plenty of parking. We only noticed one flight over the hotel: not sure if that has to do with the benefits of double glazing or advantageous flight paths but we had an undisturbed rest. That is always welcome when one is travelling, and a necessity if one is expected to conduct business.
This Hilton offers 929 sq m of flexible conference space, specifically designed to cater for global conferences, business meetings and events for up to 1170 guests. The Fitness Centre by Precor® will appeal to many who have “enjoyed” a transatlantic flight, or you might simply relax and unwind in the luxury spa with sauna and steam room.
There is a business centre with the latest in audiovisual equipment, and also an Executive Lounge which offers light snacks and drinks from early morning till late night. Less formal that the two restaurants, it’s ideal for colleagues to catch up on the day’s projects or have breakfast while leafing through the newspapers.
It’s a new hotel and striking. The huge, imposing and galleried reception area reminds one more of The Guggenheim in New York with curved whiteness and sweeping stairs. A coffee bar provides a casual seating area for meeting and greeting but you will likely be more interested in the quiet comfort of your private quarters.
All suites and guest rooms are fitted and fixed with roomy beds, cool linen, covetable bath products, flat-screen TVs and all the luxury one would expect. Attractive muted colours and artwork reminding one that this is Greater London help to create a relaxing bolt-hole for the weary. Not really surprising, this is the Hilton.
Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail in one of the two stylish bars before having dinner at either of the restaurants at the Hilton. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is the finest of Indian fine dining and is the eponymous restaurant of Cyrus Todiwala, one of the UK's most celebrated chefs. This evening we chose The Gallery restaurant which is situated on the mezzanine floor and is truly a gallery over that aforementioned lofty reception.
The Gallery is a counterpoint to the exotic style of Mr Todiwala's. It’s a vision of teak-coloured wood and some rather delightful sofas strewn with cushions that will have you lingering over the British-inspired menu – plenty to entice even the most conservative of eaters. The guests are from every corner of the world but are mostly from the US, and those visitors enjoy the superbly cooked meats and fish that reflect the best that’s available in the UK.
We ordered a cold meat platter and a pork rillette platter. They were both generous boards of food t
o graze on whilst
sipping a glass of chilled crisp white. The potted pork was chunkier
than I would have expected from a rillette and that made the starter
more substantial and more flavoursome. Rillette is more often a meat
paste and seldom bears any resemblance to the original joint in either
taste or texture. Executive Chef Paul Danabie presented a pork dish
that had real porcine punch. The board of cold cuts showcased some
British fare that was the equal of the meats from the Continent. A
garnish of traditional yellow piccalilli and some grilled bread
completed this spread.My guest loves duck in all its guises so he chose from the Spit Roast section on the menu and ordered Gressingham duck, which was cooked to succulent pink but without being bloody. Yes, I have heard that some folks like their duck oozing red but I am not keen. This duck was deliciously done, and was accompanied by fondant potatoes with a crusty outside and a fluffy interior.
There are some Trolley Specials on the menu and these add theatre to your evening. They are dishes that will be tossed and tweaked in front of you before serving. I was looking for something warming and comforting, and lingered over the list of Casserole dishes. Lots here for those with hollow legs: Braised Lamb Shanks or Flank of Beef in Dorset Ale would fill those gaps, but I wanted light and healthy fare and I was drawn to the Casserole of Daily British Fish and Shellfish.
This should surely be a signature dish. Its classy presentation in an individual copper pot leads the diner to expect something rather good ...and this was. Chunks of delicately grilled salmon floated along with cod and mussels and prawns in a light broth. A side dish of steamed broccoli and new potatoes made this a sustaining yet guilt-free option.
Desserts here are traditional and sensible. If you only have a little room then go for the Cambridge Burnt Cream which is the English equivalent of the French crème brulée. Paul presents the cream in a wide shallow dish which allows for a greater ratio of crunchy caramel topping to smooth, sweet and silky cream. This is served with tangy lemon shortbread.
You will likely want some wine with or after your meal and there is a solid bistrot-style list of wines and spirits on offer. Lots by the glass but there is also a trolley which offers tasters from a selection of vintages so you can sample before settling on your favourite. I notice that they also have dessert wine by the glass, which is always an attractive proposition when one needs something sweet but dessert would be too much volume.
The new Hilton Terminal 5 is fresh, bright and well designed. It’s also cosy and tasty and that’s enough to assure the return of those looking for both comfort and amenity. There are lots of airport hotels but this Hilton is up there with the best.
Gallery restaurant
Seats: 190Dress Code: smart casual
Children are welcome in The Gallery when accompanied by an adult.
Open:
Everyday: 6:30-22:30
Business Centre
Hours of OperationMonday 9:00-17:00
Tuesday 9:00-17:00
Wednesday 9:00-17:00
Thursday 9:00-17:00
Friday 9:00-17:00
High-speed wired and wireless internet access
Audio/visual equipment rental
Business phone service
Faxing, copying and scanning services
Video conferencing available
15 Meeting Rooms
Seating upto 1056
Largest room 8867 m2
350 Guest Rooms
3 Suites
London Hotel review:
Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5
Poyle Road,
Colnbrook SL3 0FF, United Kingdom
Phone +44 (0)1753 686860
Visit this Hilton here
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar - Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
There are lots of sushi bars in London but you will find surprisingly few reviewed here. Well, to be honest I have visited quite a few but the majority have been disappointing. Poor quality ingredients or, even worse, good quality ingredients ruined. Meagre portions carelessly presented have been the rule rather than the exception.
I have been rather dragging my feet regarding Ichi Sushi and Sashimi Bar. I hate having to give the PR company, and indeed the chef, bad news. But, thank goodness, my worries were for once unfounded. Nothing disappoints at Ichi (pronounced eechi).
The location is remarkable and the view is a stunner. Take the Underground to Westminster and walk across the bridge. You will have the London Eye and County Hall in front, as well as your destination, The Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel. Ichi Sushi and Sashimi Bar is on the 1st floor next to a vibrant and popular cocktail bar.
This is a small restaurant with seating at the sushi bar for those who want a glimpse of Head Chef Okamoto Sadayuki working his slicing magic. Tables accommodate those who want a less lofty perch, and a lucky few might be able to grab the best table in the restaurant. This small vantage point offers views on what would have been behind you on your walk across Westminster Bridge. The tower of Big Ben (yes, dear tourist, it’s the bell that’s called Big Ben) and the Houses of Parliament. Their gothic facades are, in my opinion, at their best at night when they are bathed in golden light.
All sushi bars have Sake but Ichi makes an effort. They offer a changing menu of sakes that can be enjoyed at room temperature or warmed. There are usually a couple of grain spirits as well, that are interesting but best served with a mixer for a unique Japanese cocktail.
They have sakes here for those who love that particular and characteristic flavour, but I would suggest trying Shockikubai Migori for those who want a gentle introduction to this iconic beverage. It’s soft with a suspicion of fruit. The percentage shown next to the name of the sake on the menu isn’t an indication of its alcoholic content. Sake rice is polished before it is used in brewing; the percentage figure tells the buyer how much remains of the rice after the polishing process.
Scallops Jalapeño was our starter. Sliced scallops with Momiji (paprika) on top, with a delicate flavour of char from the grill – perfectly cooked, rather than being rubbery which is more often the result in less fastidious restaurants. These were garnished with mizuna (Japanese brassica, popular for stir-fries or garnish; it is also called Kyona or potherb mustard) served with lots of hot and spicy Jalapeño sauce. A beautiful presentation and a dish that makes the best of this shellfish.
Chef Okamoto offers all the usual suspects – California rolls, sushi rolls, hand rolls and miso soup – but I would set him apart for most other Japanese chefs: his attention to detail is admirable. Wasabi is traditional and ubiquitous in every Japanese restaurant. It can be purchased in powder form or in a paste made from the aforementioned powder; but this chef uses fresh wasabi. There are very few restaurants in London that go to the trouble of using the fresh root and it is rather different and well worth trying.
If you are unfamiliar with sushi and the like then order from the platter sections. We chose The Sushi Nigiri Platter and the Sashimi Platter and these both were showcases for the chef’s evident skill. The secret is simple – good knife skills partnered with an eye for aesthetics.
Desserts here are light and predictably attractive. My guest ordered the almond mousse. This had a topping of red beans that added texture and a hint of the East. A sweet and delicious end to a delightful meal.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar is one of the few Japanese restaurants in London to which I would be happy to return. Simple ingredients elevated to give the diner a memorable culinary experience ...and don’t forget the view.
Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
London
SE1 7UT
Reservations: +44 (0)20 7620 7272
Email: reservations@ichisushi.co.uk
Opening Times
Lunch
Monday-Sunday 12:00-3:00pm
Dinner
Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30pm
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen – Terminal 5 Hilton
Cyrus Todiwala is a chef, and the showbizzy bit isn’t much in evidence in his restaurants. Yes, ‘restaurants’ plural, as now there is the eponymous Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen at the new Heathrow Terminal 5 Hilton Hotel. He is just the same as ever, visible in the restaurant rather than remaining aloof as the majority of celeb
chefs tend to be. He takes notice and cares about his guests. We arrived on a cold and wet evening to find both Mr and Mrs Todiwala on duty. The “missus” is Pervin and she is one of the unsung heroes of both restaurant teams. She has a phenomenal memory for the previous meals ordered by guests. She is herself a trained chef and has the same passion for food and fresh produce as does her husband. She is a consummate professional but with a warm personality and a sense of humour which has endeared her to diners.
C and P Todiwala were staying later than they had planned, as one of their regulars (to have ‘regulars’ already in a little over a month speaks volumes) had asked for something a little different, something not on the menu. No problem at Mr. Todiwala's Kitchen. The guest is just
as important as the food. I
don’t want to give the impression that the table staff hover too
closely or watch your every move from a distance. The
service is appropriately attentive, with a good number of waiting staff
who are indistinguishable from the chefs. OK, the chef jackets and
taupe aprons are spotless but one has the impression that each dish has
been made and delivered fresh from the open kitchen just for you
...which indeed it has.So that’s introduced my readers to the stars, but what of the new stage? When I dream of exotic spots I have a vision of a bungalow (an Indian word), sun-bleached shutters, lime-washed floors, rustic furniture, sumptuous soft furnishings and an elephant called Roy. In truth, I have just added the animally element after visiting Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen, but all the rest of it is indeed also there.
The huge wooden elephant is just about the only overtly Indian adornment in this stunning restaurant. It’s light and stylish with a hint of colonial charm. You know it’s an Indian dining room so the style can just be a testament to good design taste, as the kitchen is to all things culinary.
Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen offers an extensive menu but if you are new to Indian food, as many at this airport restaurant might well be, then consider Mr. Todiwala’s Kitchen Menu which will give you an overview. This menu is bound to be popular with rugby players – or American Football players – as the main dishes can be continually replenished. There is also a Gourmand Tasting Menu for those who want a food-and-wine pairing experience.
Cyrus is Parsee and he has incorporated some of his family dishes into his menu. In fact there is much that will be new to even the most ardent of “curry” enthusiasts. Papaeta Purr Eedu is a recipe from Cyrus’ mum who was a great influence on his culinary repertoire. This dish incorporates both potatoes and eggs, two
ingredients
that
no
Parsee
would
want
to
live without. This is real comfort food,
with ginger and cumin as the main flavourings. The vegetables are toppedMankyo Chem Peri Peri or “dynamite” squid is vibrant with heat. Baby squid rings are marinated in a fiery Goan peri-peri masala then dipped in wheat, rice and white lentil flour. The squid is fried and garnished with more red Goan-style spices. This is one of the hottest dishes on the menu but there is also flavour that shines through the heat.
Dhaansaak was bound to be my guest’s choice of main course. He enjoys all Indian food but he does find the Dhaansaak at either venue to be unmissable. This is a classic Parsee lamb dish, prepared in the traditional way. Dhaansaak is composed of two words: ‘dhaan’ meaning rice and ‘saak’ meaning puréed vegetables and lentils with lamb. The rice served with the meat is different from your regular steamed or boiled rice. It’s a brown onion rice, which has
a flavour of its own. The lamb was meltingly tender but there were some
small and delicate meatballs in addition. These were peppery and
moreish and alone would have been a delight with just the sauce and
that celebrated onion rice.Keeping with the theme I also chose another Parsee favourite, a recipe from Cyrus’ great-grandma. Murghi Na Kofta Ni Curry Nay Chaawal is a rich and aromatic dish with lots of ground nuts to make a silky sauce to coat moist chicken dumplings. Simply served with steamed rice, this sauce would have been just as good with some Indian bread. A winner.
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen offers some tempting desserts and a little different from those you will find in most Indian restaurants. The ice-creams are unique and there are a couple that I will sample on my next visit. Black Pepper Ice Cream sounds intriguing as does the Stem Ginger Ice Cream, but we chose the Parsee Caramelised Apricot version, which was delicately perfumed by the slowly cooked Hunza apricots so favoured by Indian chefs. The Zafrani Crème Brulée was memorable. A golden-coloured cream with
flavour
from,
well,
saffron
but
also
cardamom,
to which I am addicted. The
caramelised topping was perfect and was evenly speckled with dark burnt
sugar. A simple and sophisticated dessert.Mr. Todiwala‘s Kitchen boasts an Indian Tea Library. This is actually a changing list of exceptional boutique teas that will delight the connoisseur and educate the rest of us. We tried Makaibari Estate First Flush Grand Reserve 2011 from Darjeeling. Makaibari is located at Kurseong, and was the world's first tea factory, established in 1859. Rajah Banerjee, the fourth generation, is now the owner.
We were expecting a special cuppa, but there was also theatre and a thoroughly engaging masterclass. A tray arrived laid with white linen and brandy glasses. I was starting to think this might be a misplaced order for those chunky American businessmen a couple of tables down. No error, these were just some of the props for the unique brewing process.
The glasses were warmed over steam while hot water was poured over the chosen leaves contained in a handmade ceramic pot. The slowly trickling sand in an egg-timer showed the passing of a couple of minutes. Once the infusion was complete the heated glass was filled with the light amber tea. Yes, it truly was a step up from your habitual dusty teabag. I preferred the first pouring as I felt it had more taste notes and less tannin. If you are into strong builder’s tea then you might like the darker and gutsier second brew. Tea at Mr. Todiwala’s is an event.
Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen is an outstanding example of a remarkable restaurant that just happens to be housed in a
hotel. Gone are the days when hotel restaurants were mediocre and dull
with a focus on merely fuelling a captive
audience. Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen can compete with any Indian restaurant.
Nothing mean, skimpy or banal here. This is an apt showcase for the
talents of the Todiwalas – Mr and Mrs.Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen
Hilton London Heathrow Airport Terminal 5
Poyle Road
Colnbrook SL3 0FF,
United Kingdom
Open:
18:00-22:30
Closed Sunday
Relais
& Châteaux Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa 
– Kirchberg, Austria
What do we think of when people mention Austria? I guess
it will be a wealth of folksy images ranging from overhanging roofs,
wooden balconies, to skiing and snow. All of the above are accurate
visions of this country but there is still more. Austria isn’t just a
winter wonderland for hardy sporting types; it’s a magnet for those who
have an appreciation of the good things in life ...and all year round.Our diverted flight (no, don’t even ask) took us to Munich and we passed through a corner of Germany and then through a particularly beautiful part of Austria en route to the Rosengarten, a unique spot which is a destination in its own right. This is a place that has already carved a reputation for quality of accommodation, spa facilities and, above all, food.
The person presiding over this culinary kingdom is Simon Taxacher who has achieved so much. His style is undoubtedly contemporary but that is only one element that sets him apart from the majority of chefs, not only in Austria but throughout the world. It’s his flair, passion and technical skill combined with sympathy for his ingredients that allows him to present dishes that are memorable, visually stunning and always delicious.
Simon is not a man alone. Sandra, his wife, is Maître de Maison and is the front-of-house face of The Rosengarten. She has a background in hospitality and a dedicated commitment to the success of the hotel. I doubt that she has many complaints. The rooms and suites are furnished to 5-star standard. The bathroom toiletries are by Bulgari and the minibar contains the best of local and international goodies – all thoughtfully chosen to enhance your in-room haven.
Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa is on the edge of a classy village called Kirchberg. You will likely not have heard of that unless you are a skier but you will, I feel sure, have heard of Kitzbühel – a ski resort of the highest calibre frequented by the great and the good (well, at least those with a bit of cash). Kirchberg is just a few kilometres from that glitzy hub and is better value for money.
The village is traditional with all the wooden-housed, painted-plastered, mountain-backdropped charm that you would hope. It attracts the skiing fraternity in the snowy winter months as it has slopes for raw beginners, enthusiastic daredevils and through to those with a death wish. Thankfully they also have a sledge run for those like me who can’t naturally walk and whistle at the same time and who would probably already have had their skiing licence taken away, if there was such a thing. The snow had just arrived and there was a sense that Christmas would
soon
be
upon
us.
The Christmas Market in Kitzbühel tempted with its
stalls selling gluhwein and gingerbread.Summer in Kirchberg is for those who want to use the ski lifts as transport to grassy hills for picnics. You will be able to enjoy breathtaking mountain views while you nibble your schinken. Clean air and a bit of unaccustomed exercise will ready you for a meal at Simon Taxacher's Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant.
You will note that it’s called Rosengarten Hotel Restaurant and Spa, so don’t plan to have every day up a mountain or indulging in retail therapy. The spa offers a far less taxing form of therapy in relaxing treatment rooms, where one can be massaged and steamed and pampered and unwound till all you want to do is wrap yourself in a fluffy dressing gown and slippers and read a good book till your eyes slowly close and you dream that the world is a better place. This Rosengarten holiday destination might not have a beach, but that spa is a worthy competitor, and it’s open all year round whatever
the
weather.There is one rather special room at the Rosengarten spa. It’s a retreat for couples, a private space with a Jacuzzi bath made for two, a couple of massage couches, and a romantic nook in which to relax in calming solitude. A glass of champagne and some fruit complete the experience.
The Rosengarten hotel and restaurants have already been noticed by Relais & Châteaux, an organisation which seeks out quality, searches for the superb and celebrates the sublime. They have just invited The Rosengarten to be part of its number, and the group includes some of the best chefs and restaurants not just in Europe but the World. Be assured that those who are listed are exceptional in every regard. That gold fleur de lys on The Rosengarten wall is a badge of honour that is worn with pride.
But it’s the food that is the cornerstone of this establishment. We enjoyed our first meal in the bistro. A simple and short menu was nevertheless stunning. We started with a carpaccio of beef and then a pumpkin soup which was an outstanding example of its genre. I was then presented with the best ravioli dish I have ever had: paper-thin filled pasta in a light and flavourful velouté. I could understand the reason for the regard in which Simon Taxacher is held and I complimented him the next day. “Oh, that’s just the ordinary restaurant fare,” he told me. A meal at the Taxacher gourmet restaurant was bound to be a stunner ...and it was.
We were invited to attend a Gala Dinner to celebrate the Relais & Châteaux accolade, a formal meal for 80 or so food and hospitality worthies ...and me. Simon charmed us with his customary culinary artistry, flair and imagination. Course after course arrived with its associated wine, each chosen to complement the various fish, fowl or game. If this food
was music it would be baroque with all the trills, swirls and twiddly
bits. If this food was fabric it would be a tapestry of rich colour and
texture – complex yet not a stitch out of place. If this food was
mathematics then each element would combine to be more than the sum of
its parts.There is a natural flow at Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten. The quality starts at the top, in the Cookery School and its private dining area (more of that in future), and cascades down through those sumptuous rooms, drifting through both restaurants and down to the spa. Each floor is bathed in comfort and charm and punctuated with a little culinary excitement along the way. It is indeed worthy of that gold emblem.
Overview:
The Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten is located in the picturesque village of Kirchberg, just 7km away from Kitzbühel, with the renowned sports mountain Gaisberg on the doorstep.
26 Rooms and Suites
Restaurant Rosengarten
Bistro Rosengarten Light
Piano Bar & Smoking Lounge
Private Dining and Cookery School Studio on the top floor
Rosengarten Spa
2012 – Member of Relais & Châteaux and Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux
Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten
Aschauerstrasse 46
6365 Kirchberg
Tyrol, Austria
Phone: +43 5357 4201, Fax +43 5357 4201 50.
Email: welcome@rosengarten-taxacher.com
Visit The Relais & Châteaux Rosengarten here
The Palace Hotel - Malta
Sliema is the main coastal resort on Malta. That will cause many of my readers to click away from this article but I beg you to read on and become enlightened about a real hidden gem of the Med.Sliema is indeed the most prominent holiday location on the island. If you haven’t already visited then you will assume that this will be a predictable island holiday “haven”, with its dubious waterfront punctuated by tacky tourist bars, tackier souvenirs, full English breakfasts and a 12hour-long “happy” hour. Yes, we have all been to those well-known holiday ghettos, and there are many of us who do not wish a speedy return.
Now consider those other resort towns of the style of, say, Nice or Le Lavandou in France. They offer class, flair mixed with a certain joie de vivre. Well it’s rather like that in this corner of Malta. It’s very traditionally Maltese but it also oozes a little je ne sais quoi ...or whatever that is in Maltese. Sliema attracts the well-travelled and well-heeled strata of Maltese society as well as the international set, and it’s the neighbourhood of The Ferries where the fashionable shops and boutiques can be found, so bring your gold card.
This is a real town where the locals honestly do live. It’s a busy place with its boundary with the sea being the celebrated Strand, where you will be able to indulge in some high-end retail therapy as well as enjoy some of best food around. The wide promenade offers views to the capital, Valletta, a short distance away. That’s another advantage with Malta: nothing is far away. The promenade overlooks a flat rocky beach and two swimming pool lidos for the sun worshippers, although Malta offers so much more even in cool weather. You will never be short of things to do: amazing fish to try, places to go, superb wine to sample, churches to visit, delicious food to linger over, boat-rides to take, Maltese nibbles to graze upon...
So you have been enticed by glowing descriptions of Malta’s equally glowing honey-coloured stone,
and
you
have
made
up
your
mind
that
Sliema
will
be your destination; but
you will need a place to stay. Sleeping on a beach is frowned on and
anyway you are too old for all that. You are looking for one of the
best hotels around in which to relax and be pampered, not very far from
your comfort zone of some very decent retail therapy. Book yourself
into The Palace.I confess that I had not done my homework before arriving at The Palace. The name sounded grand but I travelled with more hope than expectation. Was this going to be a monument to faded glory? I knew that Malta has history percolating through every stone so this could be a very old “palace” indeed.
It was with some relief that I discovered that The Palace is 5-star, and it’s easy to see why. It’s newish, contemporary, well-appointed and most importantly, friendly. The lobby is marble-clad, leather-lounged and chandelier-ceilinged, with two restaurants and two computers that really do offer instant internet access – although there is wifi in all the rooms, for those who tote a laptop or pad.
But I wasn’t staying in Reception and I yearned for a cosy room to call my own for a few nights. A long hot bath and some pillows that didn’t have the name of an airline embroidered all over. My room was on the 7th floor and had a view over the rooftops to the sea. The private balcony would have been a magnet for me and a book, had the weather cooperated.
Plenty of hanging space, a TV and a desk were all 5-star standard, along with a mini-bar and tea-making facilities so discretely hidden that I
didn’t find them until the
second night! And the bed was 6 stars at least – well, OK you will say
that it was just the sense of fatigued desperation that made that
substantial and fluffy cloud so appealing ...but it seemed just as
attractive the next morning when I tried, reluctantly, to lift my by
now thoroughly rested back from those cotton sheets.The bathroom was one of the best I have recently graced. A proper bath and a selection of eminently stealable toiletries were the focus on the first night, but the morning found me wandering the vastness of the shower. Deep joy. I can never resist bathrooms that are bigger than my house.
The Palace has a spa for those who prefer to be less dormant than this reviewer, and this is spread over three levels, offering a fresh-water indoor pool, an outdoor pool and a fitness room. There is a battery of spa treatments and a range of products to suit all skin types. Hotel guests can also use the tennis courts and squash courts at the nearby Union Club.
The Tabloid restaurant offers a very substantial breakfast buffet. Yes, OK, so one would expect a good spread. The Palace is 5-Star after all. But this was a rather positive start to the day, morning foods to tempt any sleepy palate and I do love a good, leisurely and peaceful brekkie. Lots of hot goods on offer and these included some Maltese specialities such as local sausages and cheese-filled pastries. A good selection of sweet breads to go along with some coffee for those with Gallic leanings. Fresh fruit in abundance because I wanted to be worthy, and a few cakes to follow. Yes, a well-balanced breakfast for this reviewer.
I am lucky enough to be able to spend time in 5-star hotels all over the world and The Palace is up there with the best. It has all the amenities that one would expect but the location and the quality of staff are unique to the Palace. I only have one regret and that is that I missed visiting their TemptAsian restaurant on the 9th floor. This is said to be one of the foremost pan-Asian restaurants in the whole of Europe. That’s not a bad accolade when one considers the standard of the competition. I guess a return to The Palace is in order.
The Palace Hotel
High Street, Sliema SLM1542
Malta
Phone: +356 21 333 444
Fax: +356 2262 1000
Email: business@thepalacemalta.com
Visit the Palace Hotel here
China Tang – The Dorchester
I am indeed an unashamed supporter of The Dorchester. Not that they exactly need my patronage but I want to nail my colours to their mast. It’s quality writ large and it never disappoints. If you are looking for classic service
and
charm
then you will appreciate its every plush cushion and impressive
vase. The Dorchester dates back to 1931 and is a vision of polished good Deco taste with a hint of Victoriana. There is more evocative décor in the basement. No, it’s not a storage room for discarded furniture – it’s the very classy China Tang, The Dorchester’s iconic Chinese restaurant (yes, the name does give a clue to its ethnicity).
Sir David Tang, KBE, is a successful Hong Kong businessman and socialite best known as the founder of the Shanghai Tang fashion chain, which he sold in 2006, as well as China Clubs in Hong Kong, Peking and Singapore.
Sir David is obviously a “hands-on” owner. He has been at the forefront of the restaurant design as well as taking a passionate interest in the most important area – the kitchen. He has not only selected the best chefs from
Hong Kong for his eponymous
restaurant, he has also composed a menu to reflect the finest of
Cantonese cooking. I know it’s just a matter of taste, visual and culinary, but I consider China Tang to be one of the most remarkable restaurants in London. One is wafted back to the China of the 20s and 30s, when armies of modern “bright young things” sipped cocktails and listened to daring jazz. Shanghai and other Chinese cities were magnets for the jet set, well, OK, in the days before jets.
Sir David has ensured that every guest has a multi-sensory experience. China Tang is striking and eclectic and gives the air of one of those refined restaurants of a bygone age. One can feast one’s eyes on objets d'art and admire the gold-embroidered table linen and metal chopsticks; everything carefully chosen for impact but also practicality. The low ceilings create a cosy ambiance and the buzz of animated conversation adds to the general excitement.
Every Tuesday, China Tang offers an evening of very live jazz in the main dining room, featuring the celebrated duo Kitty La Roar and Nick of Time performing music that will add still more to the sensation of being transported back in time. “Slow Boat to China” and “A Little Street in Singapore” are just so right for China Tang, and Kitty is stunning in a tight black Chinese Cheongsam which has the male diners riveted before she even warbles a word ...and what a voice! http://www.kittyandnick.co.uk/#
China Tang is said to offer some of the most authentic Cantonese food outside China. I was expecting something special: The Dorchester would not tolerate a naff version of your local high-street “Happy San-Pan”. China Tang doesn’t fiddle with food. No mounds of rice moulded into the two doves of Willow Pattern fame here. No miniature junks ploughing the waves of one’s Hot and Sour soup. Each dish is simply presented and served sans elaborate garnish. The chef doesn’t need to distract you. Fresh ingredients
are
cooked
to perfection.The menu offers Cantonese classics so you will find many dishes that sound familiar but I can guarantee that they will be the best examples of those dishes you will ever taste. Try some steamers of dim sum. The dough will be thin and delicate and the fillings aromatic and refined. I particularly enjoyed the pork dumplings, the meat bathed in flavourful broth. A must-try starter is Taro Cakes. These are light and crunchy and thoroughly moreish. I have had them before but these at China Tang are addictive. They look like they are made of that finely-shredded pastry often found topping Middle-Eastern patisserie.
Peking Duck is a signature dish. It’s a delicious extravaganza of glossy mahogany skin (the exact hue of the wooden chairs: how did Sir David manage that?) and moist meat. Then there is the theatre of watching your deft waitress carve the bird: slivers of lacquered skin and then slices of succulent meat. The remainder of the duck will be minced with seasonings and a few other ingredients and served with lettuce for wraps. This is just as much an event as a dish.
China Tang is famous, and rightly so, for its Stir-fried Beef in Black Pepper. This dish was a rich triumph of glazed cubes of meat flecked with black. The flavour was agreeably pungent from the pepper and the texture was melting. This needed no garnish other than some rice, and they have bamboo pots of that, of various sorts.
Fukien Rice is a traditional dish but seldom seen on menus of lesser restaurants. It’s a rich seafood stew atop rice, a meal in itself and well worth saving some space for. I would suggest trying dishes that you might not find elsewhere. They will be faithful and authentic examples.
Desserts are usually a bit thin on the ground in Chinese restaurants but China Tang has some delightful, Asian inspired sweets. Their Chocolate Steamed Dumplings are legendary, they shine and tempt; while the Green Tea Mousse was light and perfumed. The Black Tea Ice Cream was refreshing with still a pleasant touch of tannin. Balls of fresh papaya completed this quartet of miniature desserts.
I’ll grant you, China Tang isn’t the cheapest restaurant around but it’s still good value for money. One is paying not only for delectable food but also for an exceptional experience. We will return to have a meal in the bar – it offers the same menu as the main restaurant – and try some signature cocktails. This is on my list of favourite restaurants visited in 2011.
China Tang opening hours
Lunch:
Monday to Friday: 11:00 am to 3:30 pm
Saturday and Sunday: 11:00 am to 4:00 pm
Dinner:
Monday to Sunday: 5:30 pm to 12:00 midnight
Bookings for Lunch and Dinner are strongly recommended; to reserve a table call:
+44 (0) 20 7629 9988
China Tang at The Dorchester,
Park Lane, Mayfair, London W1K 1QA
Phone: 0871 971 3579
Visit China Tang here
Mercer Street Hotel – Radisson Edwardian
The neighbourhood belongs to the Worshipful Company of Mercers. A mercer was a dealer in textiles and The Mercers’ Company is one of the 108 Livery Companies of the City of London, established around 700 years ago. These days the organisation is known for its charities and schools but Mercer Street still bears the name of that ancient profession.
Mercer Street Hotel enjoys a prime site at Seven Dials. Yes, there truly is a monument sporting sundials in the centre of this busy junction. The untutored will be driven to assume that there would indeed be seven dials crowning the column but there are in reality only six. Nothing to do with our shrinking economy or even government cutbacks though; it’s the result of the original pillar being commissioned before an eleventh-hour alteration of the street plans for a junction of six roads. This isn’t a recent cost-saving measure: we are talking about the 1690s.
The first sundial column was removed in the 1700s. The replacement column was erected in 1989, to the original design with still those six dials. It was unveiled by Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, to commemorate the tercentenary of the reign of William of Orange and Queen Mary; the area was developed during their reign.
This corner of London hasn’t always been trendy. The area was
once described by
Charles Dickens in his collection Sketches by Boz: “The stranger who
finds himself in the Dials for the first time...at the entrance of
seven obscure passages, uncertain which to take, will see enough around
him to keep his curiosity awake for no inconsiderable time.” No need
for the modern tourist to feel alarmed by unwanted attention – this is
no longer the den of iniquity that it once was; there are now plenty of
boutiques and stylish eateries. Seven Dials has become a destination in
its own right.Well, if that column is going to be a pivotal point of your visit then you will need a smart place to lay your weary over-shopped and all-museumed-out head. The Mercer Street Hotel has its front door opposite the Dials and that hotel offers character, comfort and ambiance that are usually hard to find in large chain hotels. It gives the impression of being a high-end boutique hotel with all the charm and individuality that the title affords. However, 137 air-conditioned bedrooms in this newly refurbished establishment have everything you would want of a 5-star hotel but it is labelled only 4! iPod-, iPad-, iPhone-docking, DVD-playing facilities, along with a huge flat-screen TV help to entertain those technophiles while the rest of us sink into cushions and luxuriate in steamy-bath ecstasy.
Each room is sumptuous and different from its neighbour. The furnishings are bespoke and tasteful encouraging you to linger for just a while longer in fluffy, and in our case pastel pink and pale caramel, cosiness. The street views are more absorbing than the moving wallpaper of the telly: cafés with tables of fellow people-watchers, cycle couriers risking lives of the unwary, and tourists wandering with fascinated faces as they discover this truly iconic corner of old London.
So you have watched the passers-by while sipping on a cuppa
(Union
Jack-emblazoned fridge in dressing room with some necessary teabags and
a Nespresso coffee-maker), and it’s time for dinner. The ground-floor
restaurant is called Dial. Well, if it wasn’t that I guess it would
have been called Seven. It’s a contemporary and intimate
space which adjoins its popular and buzzy bar. A simple menu of modern
European fare with the emphasis on freshness. The original Covent
Garden is just a short distance away and for centuries that supplied
the whole of Greater London with produce. Dial continues that theme by
offering its guests the best of seasonal and local ingredients.The food here is just “right”. One orders a dish and it is just as one hopes, nothing over-fussy or inexplicably exotic. The chef seems confident and competent and manages to add a few flourishes that are perfectly in keeping with the dish and show his culinary credentials.
My first course was a Parfait of Foie Gras; very simple and traditional. One slice of the light terrine, a slice or two of toasted brioche and a garnish of fresh figs. But the fig chutney alongside was a stunner. A rich and firm aromatic relish that I would have happily eaten with nothing added other than a big spoon. (Mental note to oneself: Ask chef for recipe).
My guest hankered after greens and so settled on the Salad of Roasted Butternut Squash and Yellow Peppers with a strewing of broad beans and toasted pumpkin seeds. This was a considerable plateful of colourful crispness and melting sweetness.
This same companion remained noble with his choice of fish as his main course. Sea Bass Fillets with young spinach and a clam sauce was visually striking and delicious. The seafood rested atop a bed of smooth mash surrounded by the bejewelled sauce, clam shells adding a bit of seashore drama. Fish cooked with crispy skin and creamy flesh.
We in the UK are famed for our lamb and that offered at Dial was always going to be my choice. Pan-fried Rump of Salt-marsh Lamb graced a mound of garlic mash (not at all gluey as is unfortunately sometimes the way), a tower of delicately-charred Mediterranean vegetables and a dressing of rosemary sauce. This needed no additional side and was a showcase for the best of British food. The meat was tender and just past pink, the sauce was a light gravy with plenty of herby impact. A classic.
It’s been a good year for apples so it was no surprise to find them on Dial’s menu. Here they were offered as a tart. Made fresh for each guest, allow 20 minutes for it to arrive hot to your table. The tart in question was a disc of light and puffy pastry with slices of fruit baked into the base. The toffee sauce was rich and sweet and it always goes well with apples ...or bananas ...or ... A comforting pud to round off a delightful day.
Bad planning on my behalf meant an early check-out the next morning. A bit of personal pampering with the complementary toiletries and we were down for breakfast. There was the usual international buffet of fruit, yoghurt, pastries and cereals awaiting the morning crowd but hot dishes came individually plated (when the nice waitress says “Mind – the plates are hot”, believe her). I had the full English and it truly was “full”: bacon (2 rashers), sausage, black pudding, scrambled eggs, mushrooms, potatoes and a ramekin of baked beans. All this stayed piping hot till the last bite. The bacon was particularly good: back bacon and tinged with brown round the edges. A bacon sandwich will be my choice on the next visit, for return there surely will be. This hotel is just such a gem of almost hidden yet accessible luxury.
The Mercer Street Hotel ticked all the boxes for me. The location is unbeatable, the accommodation was as good as I have found in many a 5-star hostelry, the food was sensible and memorable. The staff are a cut above the average. They were knowledgeable (well, that comes with training), but they seemed genuinely enthusiastic and proud ...and you can’t teach that.
Dial Restaurant opening hours:
Breakfast
Monday to Saturday: 7am - 10am
Sunday: 8am - 11am
Lunch: 12noon - 2.30pm
Afternoon Tea: 3pm - 5pm
Dinner: 5.30pm - 10.30pm
Bar: All day until 2am
Mercer Street Hotel - Radisson Edwardian
20 Mercer Street, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9HD
Reservations:
800 333-3333 US - Toll Free
0800 37 4411 UK - Toll Free
Phone: + 44 (0)20 7836 4300
Fax: +44 (0)20 7240 3540
Email: resmerc@radisson.com
Visit Mercer Street Hotel here
The Dorchester – for breakfast
It’s one of London’s most iconic hotels. Ask any local or tourist to name a couple of the most famous hotels in London and the Dorchester is liable to be one of those mentioned. It’s been around for a while, since 1931, so it deserves the accolade of Classic with all the positive connotations that word affords.
During the Second World War, the strength of the Dorchester’s concrete construction gave the hotel the reputation of being one the safest buildings in town. Winston Churchill stayed in the hotel, and General Dwight D. Eisenhower took a suite on the first floor, now the Eisenhower Suite.
The hotel closed for a couple of years in the 1980s. Some areas were showing their age and it needed an injection of technology and amenity. The Dorchester has, however, maintained some public areas that offer that opulence of another age, sporting characteristics that we all crave but which are so often lost with unsympathetic refits.
Its location has, no doubt, helped with its prestigious reputation. It’s found on Park Lane in Mayfair, overlooking Hyde Park. Not a bad address, but every hotelier knows that guests will not return if the interior doesn’t match the location, and if service and customer care fall short. There is plenty of competition out there but The Dorchester has maintained its creditable position.
The imposing facade is softened by thoughtful planting, presenting the guest with a veritable cascade of flower and foliage, but the real Dorchester treasures are found the other side of the revolving doors with polished brass trim. It’s the striking Promenade which, for me at least, is the epitome of timeless charm.
The Promenade is a comfy space, a vision of old gold and architectural features that transport one back to a genteel era when potted palms were the norm and one had plenty of staff to polish the silver, and the butler wore a morning suit.
OK, so not many of us have maids and footmen but we can borrow a little of the Dorchester’s luxury every time we visit. It’s a big and sumptuous hotel but it’s not intimidating. Every guest is made to feel at home – like they
belong and most importantly, like they are
special.It was an early morning treat for us – breakfast at a cosy side table in the Promenade. Crisp linen, gleaming cutlery as one would expect, and a stand that would soon be garnished with a plate of croissants, pains au chocolat, Danish pastries and muffins. All of these are made at the Dorchester so you’ll know they are fresh. Small dainties with amber shine. Almost too good to eat... almost.
The Dorchester Bacon Buttie was reassuring and intriguing. It would seem an oxymoron: one of the smartest hotels in London offering butties. Well, yes indeed and it was, just as one would hope, a memorable creation with sweet cured bacon, belly pork and a fried egg served on focaccia. In truth this was such a tower of food that the top segment of bread was presented leaning on the side of the sandwich. This wasn’t a light breakfast option but it was somewhat more interesting than the traditional British breakfast which, although a favourite, can be had almost everywhere.
The belly pork was a delicious departure from a regular breakfast sandwich. It was sweet, flavourful and with the correct and comforting ratio of meat to creamy fat. That fat is key to the success of the dish. The condiments were, however, traditional: tomato ketchup and brown sauce. Diners will have a strongly-held preference for one or the other and that’s as it should be, but anyway I think there is a law against smearing both; if there isn’t there should be.
The Dorchester does have a breakfast menu of healthy Bircher muesli, cereals or fruit salad for those who treat their bodies like temples – although I did notice a miniature jar of very adult chocolate spread to help down the healthy five-seeded wholemeal bread. Wholemeal toast and carrot and courgette muffins might well be my choice
on a
future visit.Tea is an essential part of any English breakfast and we enjoyed a pot or two of the speciality teas from Harney and Sons, including The Dorchester Blend, a light and refreshing brew that was a delicate foil for the richness of both bacon and pork, and the sticky moreishness of those little pastries.
The Dorchester will not disappoint. It’s been the regular home-from-home for many a celebrity and fatigued businessman, and increasingly for those of us who just periodically like to indulge in the finer things in life. It’s not the cheapest of hotels but it remains the spot that offers predictable quality and a particular ambiance that is hard to replicate – the place for an accessible and memorable treat at any time of the day.
London restaurant review: The Dorchester
Park Lane, London W1K 1QA
Phone: 020 7629 8888
Reservations: 020 7317 6500
Fax: 020 7629 8080
E-mail: info.thedorchester@dorchestercollection.com
E-mail: reservations.uk@dorchestercollection.com
Visit the Dorchester here
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge
London is my home so I admit that I probably have a bias. I think it is one of the most fascinating cities in the world. It’s historic, cultural and cosmopolitan, and the celebrated attractions cover a reasonably small area. A well-placed hotel will have you at the heart of everything on your holiday wish-list.You don’t have to be a tourist to be impressed by the view from this new and contemporary hotel. It’s a 3D version of the postcard visitors would send home to the family...but it’s got, in true Harry Potter fashion, moving traffic and river boats ...and the Houses of Parliament ...and the tower of Big Ben ...and the London Eye. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge is a destination hotel in every regard.
I personally never tire of that vista – it changes with the weather and the time of day – but a hotel must be comfortable to warrant a visit, and must be something special to deserve a return booking. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge ticks lots of boxes: location, facilities, dining options and thoughtful design.
The reception for this hotel is on the first floor to take advantage of that aforementioned vision of our seat of government and the eponymous bridge. It’s an expansive open space that could take on the cramped characteristics of an airport check-in area were not its visitors encouraged to leave their luggage on the lower level, so without that clutter the first floor remains striking and spacious. The restaurants and bars are on this level but are tucked away in corners to avoid that shopping-mall food-hall ambiance that so often tarnishes the stars of large hotels. Ichi Sushi & Sashimi Bar, 1WB Lounge and Patisserie, Espressamente Illy coffee bar as well as Brasserie Joël are all here, offering everything from light snacks to more substantial meals.
Our room was on the 12th floor and just as contemporary as the public spaces, well-appointed with high-end toiletries, bath and shower. The bathroom acted as a divider between the bedroom and the lounge space. This sported a cream leather sofa that doubled as a bed, turning this stylish unit into a family suite with just a click or two. It’s an ideal office space for those unfortunates who, like us, work on the run. Wardrobe doors with glass murals, mirrors and a brace of suspended flat-screen TVs impress the guest with techy international vibe. Modern, not minimalist, luxury.
I had expected the ubiquitous mini-bar and I wasn’t disappointed, but there were other practical touches to this comprehensive refreshment station: a microwave, kettle and cutlery to allow guests to bring in their own food. The foresighted management know that times are tough and food can be a worry when there’s a hotel bill to pay along with entrance tickets (thank goodness at least museums are free in London). Kids just want familiar meals and here parents can provide those, just like at home.
We were a couple of hungry adults who craved more than microwaved pizza so we wandered down to Brasserie Joël. Chef Joël Antunes has given his name to the restaurant and he has returned to the UK after more than a decade overseas. He will be best remembered for founding Les Saveurs in the early 1990s, which earned a Michelin star. The brasserie menu is broad and accessible. My guest chose Chicken Liver Terrine with Fig Chutney, which was a traditional French starter and served with a couple of tranches of smoky and delicious grilled bread. Nothing elaborate but just right.
The menu changes frequently but there is always something to tempt even the pickiest of palates. I was intrigued by the braised aubergine in balsamic vinegar. This was in fact the best aubergine dish I have had in years. It was melting, sweet and glossy, and topped with a wedge of creamy mozzarella which, although good quality, was hardly necessary – the aubergine shone alone. A stunner, and should be a signature dish.
Aged Beef Tournedos Rossini with foie gras, truffle sauce and a
thick slice of
melting braised potato was the main course for my partner. He asked for
his beef to be rare and it was indeed cooked to that specification.
There was a ring of colour from the searing but the centre of the cut
was rosy. A well-seasoned dish with an attractive presentation.Traditional Fish Pie filled with prawns, salmon, haddock and leek gave a simple counterpoint to the meal. This is comfort food at its finest: a smooth potato and cheese topping over a rich fish filling that was flavourful, piping hot and typical of authentic brasserie dishes. They don’t have to be made with costly ingredients, it’s a style of cooking, and it’s becoming more popular. Brasseries give diners what they want: good, well-prepared and presented fare that they feel they would want to replicate in their own homes ...and this reviewer would, if only someone would give her the recipe for that aubergine starter.
Rhubarb Macaroon with Strawberry Sorbet is chic. Who would not have noticed the proliferation of bakeries and confectioners selling those decadent and stylishly French Macaroons? This was a symphony of pastel shades and contrasting textures. Light but with richness from those classic cookies.
A little Semi Freddo Vanilla Ice Cream and Coffee Granita was all I could manage but it arrived, substantial and striking, in a sundae glass overflowing with coffee crystals and ice cream. The addition of a cup of espresso finished a delightful and relaxing dinner. A melange of old favourites and new culinary trends in a restaurant that prefers country-style linen to starched tablecloths, and pots of herbs to sprays of roses.
We awoke early. No, we were not bothered by traffic noise (isn’t triple glazing a marvellous invention). We just wanted to open the curtains and gaze across the river to the Palace of Westminster. Red buses and black taxis and a few early risers avoiding the approaching rush-hour together made the scene a moving tapestry of morning London life. OK, so I am a city girl and this city is amazing in the dawn light when it’s the exclusive domain of those who live and work here. We are indeed spoilt.
Breakfast is held in the brasserie and the place was buzzing with American, Japanese and Australian tourists who were to be whisked away to cathedral towns, rolling hills or the coast, as soon as the last crumb of toast was finished. If you want a less frenetic start to your day then wait till after 8.30am, as any civilised visitor would do anyway.
The breakfast buffet reflects the multi-national makeup of the hotel guests. Plenty of fruit and cereals and yoghurt for those with bodies like temples. Plates of cold meats and cheeses for Scandinavians, all the elements for a monumental Full Monty fry-up, and delicate pastries for the French. A good spread of brekkie dishes to suit every epicurean tradition.
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge London is a hotel with much to recommend it. Yes, its location makes it a favourite with overseas guests but that same position makes it sought after by those with business in the financial hub, or those others who need to haunt the corridors of power. It is a popular event venue, and has a spa and all the trappings that make hotels such as this the lodgings of choice for those with discerning taste.
Park Plaza Westminster Bridge London
200 Westminster Bridge Road, London SE1 7UT
Telephone: 0844 415 6790
Fax: 0844 415 6791
Visit Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel here
InterContinental for Afternoon Tea and Summer
London is acknowledged to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It’s been a magnet for tourists for generations. Plenty of celebrated museums, and all free, galleries to admire, and then there is always retail therapy, and that has never gone out of style.Yes, we have famous buildings by the score and our green spaces are loved by local and visitor alike. Hyde Park, Green Park, Kensington Gardens and Regents Park have great appeal when the sun shines. Tourists enjoying a stroll, mums with energetic toddlers and office workers snatching some rays all take advantage of an hour or so of tranquillity.
But what do we think of when we consider a traditional English summer? Taking a boat trip on the Thames? Some open-air concerts? A picnic? Perhaps all of the above, and if you are fortunate enough to be staying at InterContinental on Park Lane then you can pamper yourself with a bespoke picnic to enjoy at any outside event or even while your riverboat motors under Tower Bridge and past the Houses of Parliament.
Picnics aren’t necessarily just a showcase for curly cheese-and-pickle sarnies. Executive Chef Paul Bates offers some of his favourite foods for the delicious alfresco menu:
Roasted ratatouille, cous cous and chorizo
Chicken salad, shredded and tossed in sherry-hazelnut vinegar dressing
Tuna-salmon sashimi, wasabi and ginger
Lightly poached lobster, mango-basil salsa
Mixed leaf, cos, rocket, mache, sweet cherry tomatoes, bell peppers
Palm heart, artichoke and avocado, light garlic dressing
Demi baguettes
Sharphams rustic (hard cheese)
This season's pear chutney
Sinful chocolate fudge brownie
English bakewell tart
Large still or sparkling water.
But there are those rare days (yeah, right) when the sky is grey from edge to edge and there might even be the
threat of rain. Tourists should note that it’s almost guaranteed to
rain for Wimbledon Tennis or any international cricket match. Nothing
worse than damp grass when one is looking for a spot to consume
delicious deli fare and some sweet pastries, so consider the
alternative venue of a traditional afternoon tea in the classy shelter
of the InterContinental’s Wellington Lounge.The ground floor of this popular hotel has undergone a complete makeover. It’s now light and bright with soft taupe and powder-sage hues. The picture windows offer vistas that are typical of this remarkable corner of London: red buses, black London taxis, iconic architecture and views across to Wellington Arch and Hyde Park. The decor has been designed to “bring the outside in” and it does that in the most attractive fashion.
Try the hotel's own designer Wellington Blend tea, created by Executive Chef Paul Bates in conjunction with Modern Tea Emporium. The tea selection is a delicious companion to the spread of delicate delights. Even the crockery is new and mimics the geometric design on carpets and soft furnishings. The afternoon is an event, attracting both Intercontinental guests and those who are just passing. It’s a hotel that is famed for its quality cuisine at the Cookbook Café, and now in the Lounge.
There are several ‘Teas’ available in Britain. You will see restaurants and cafés offering different ‘teas’ appropriate to the time of day. Traditionally, the upper classes would take ‘afternoon tea’ around four o'clock. A ‘cream tea’ is a lighter version of this. The middle and lower classes would have a more substantial ‘high tea’ a little later in the day, at five or six o'clock, in place of dinner. Working classes had dinner at lunch time and tea nearer dinner time. Sunday lunch was always a full dinner, when high tea might be replaced by supper. Clear?
Afternoon Tea Menu
Sandwich Selection:
Speyside smoked salmon, cucumber linguini and Sevruga caviar. A traditional topping with a twist.
Rare roasted sirloin of beef, Piccalilli, chives and horseradish. Who could visit Britain and not try some roast beef?
Steamed Devon red chicken, hen egg mayonnaise and baby red-stalk sorrel. Flavourful and light.
West coast Scottish lobster, shrimps, olive oil tomato emulsion. Rich and decadent and a showcase for some of the best seafood in these isles.
Sultana scones with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry preserve are served after the guest has consumed the lowest tier of the stand, the savouries. Those scones and garnishes make a truly authentic treat alone, and are usually described as a ‘cream tea’.
But Intercontinental provides a full Afternoon Tea, which is rounded off with an overflowing top plate which one would have been gazing at since the arrival of the cake stand. I guess it’s called ‘cake’ stand to draw attention to the goods gracing the summit.
Vanilla and white chocolate cream profiterole.
Mango tranche with blackberry cream has full-on fruity flavour and one can feel noble: it must count as one of your 5 a day.
Dark chocolate torte is slightly bitter and has a sophisticated adult taste.
Preserved infused-fruit Madeira cake is old-fashioned and comforting.
All the above fancies, and some more, might be your reward for a hard day spent touring on an open-top bus, beetling around on a Boris-bike, hiking through designer boutiques and admiring historic sites. Enjoy it. You deserve it.
Selection of teas, cakes, sandwiches and scones.
£25 per person
£35 per person with a glass of Champagne
Monday to Friday from 1pm to 5pm. At weekends two sittings: 1.30pm to 3.30pm and 4pm to 6pm.
Visit the InterContinental web site at here.
The
Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel
The Pestana Chelsea Bridge
Hotel is a 4-star hotel
in one of London’s most iconic of locations. It’s conveniently
placed just a
few yards from the River Thames with views over Battersea Park. This is
an up-and-coming neighbourhood with stylish apartment blocks
giving an air of affluent big-city
life. The hotel offers easy access to key bus and train routes and is
within
walking distance, if the weather is good and you need the exercise, of
Sloane
Square and Victoria Station.A cold Sunday afternoon found us at the reception of The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel. It offered a warm welcome, with a striking Artur Bual mural behind the desk and more large canvasses by the same Portuguese artist in the lounge area. This is after all a Portuguese-run hotel and there are subtle nuances scattered throughout its accessible opulence. It’s a new hotel so it was as expected scuffless and pristine, but nevertheless the first impression is of polished comfort.
I never tire of hotel stays but not all hotels are created equal. Even some five-star hotels lack lustre and impact so I am always a bit wary of four-star lodgings. No need to worry about resting your weary head at Pestana. Our room was one that I would love to replicate in our own home. That isn’t my usual sentiment; it’s more often an appreciation of the grandeur of the drapes, gratitude for the complementary fluffy slippers, and admiration for the soon-to-be-stolen bathroom toiletries.
Well, Pestana has very acceptable bath products. OK, so I didn’t find any slippers and I can’t remember the curtains, but the room had contemporary and high-end impact writ large. Lamps and shades to covet, a bed-head of gargantuan proportions and a white chaise-longue that would not look out of place as an extra in a James Bond flick. The window onto the bathroom had a much-appreciated blind and those facilities were well appointed. A full bath as well as a walk-in shower tempted me to linger in steamy contentment.
This hotel ticks all the boxes for comfort but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. I shared the bathroom with a tiara-toting bulldog. Not a real one but she (I guess it was a girl bulldog) was bidding visitors a very British "Hiya". The red Routemaster bus in the bedroom prompted another wry smile from these two reviewers who are also the authors of a book about the aforementioned much-loved mode of London transport.
The ground-floor Atlantico restaurant beckoned for our evening meal. The manager, Stefano, isn’t exactly Portuguese but neither is the menu. It’s International cuisine and that phrase will send shudders through most food lovers. It revives memories of steak and chips, dry roast chicken and
dubious egg mayo salad. Yes, Atlantico has an international menu but
it’s based
on fresh seasonal produce and imagination, and there are indeed a
couple of Portuguese
specialities.The resident expert mixologist, Alex, concocted his famous Piri Piri spiced cocktail which I can recommend for those who enjoy robust flavours. It’s not searingly hot but rather aromatic and pleasantly warming. An unwinding tipple while we meandered through the bill of fare.
There is a Tapas table offering platters of cheeses and meats and salads. Roast dinners are also on offer, but we chose from the à la carte dishes. Carpaccio of octopus with Mache salad, breakfast radish and aged parmesan was my light starter. The seafood was delicate and the radish added a delightful peppery note. Cheese isn’t usual with octopus but it acted as a good and slightly tangy counterpoint to the other flavours.
Ham hock, Chorizo terrine, Saffron aioli and toasted walnut bread was my guest’s first dish. The meat was chunky and well-seasoned. The bread was full of the eponymous nuts and gave texture as well as flavour to the terrine.
Confit Bacalhau with crushed ratte potatoes, mussels and spicy salsa took the fancy of my companion and he
was
impressed.
Bacalhau is salt cod and is usually found as thin and unappetising
boards in
trendy fishmongers. The Atlantico version is chunky and tender, and
much more
resembles its fresh sibling. It has a distinct flavour rather than
being simply
salty. Franguinho Piri Piri is spatchcock Poussin in piri piri sauce served with Parmentier potatoes and wilted baby spinach, and is the menu’s nod to Portugal. The chicken was moist with a spice glaze that was vibrant with piri piri spice mirroring that I had already enjoyed in Alex’s cocktail. A simple dish but well worth ordering. The cubes of potatoes were crunchy around their chiselled edges but were soft and fluffy inside. My dessert was also Portuguese: Arroz Doce - vanilla rice pudding. Almost every culinary tradition seems to offer a rice pudding in some guise or other. The version at Atlantico was rice in its most creamy and comforting form. Old-fashioned and moreish.
We enjoyed a good night’s sleep in our classy room with views across the park. Revived, we were ready for breakfast. I was rather disappointed to find only a selection of pastries on show. Toast arrived and so did the juice and then we realised that the “real” brekkie goodies were in the adjoining wing of the restaurant. There were plates of fruit and bowls of yoghurt for those who treat their bodies as temples. Plenty of cold meats, cheese and a quiche for those
like me who crave some savouries, and then
there was the full-Monty
station for those who have hollow legs that were not filled
by
the previous
night’s substantial spread. With 216 rooms, spa and Lifestyle centre, six meeting rooms to cater for events from 10 to 500 delegates, restaurant, bar and coffee shop and secure underground parking, Pestana is the hotel that suits every need. We had a marvellous city break but those delegates bringing their families to London will take advantage of its in-hotel facilities as well as its proximity to the centre of town. It might be a hotel that is technically only a four-star, but I would say it’s at the top end of that band.
London hotel review: The Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel
354 Queenstown Road, London SW8 4AE
Sat nav ref: SW8 4PP
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7062 8000
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7978 2430
E-mail: res.uk@pestana.com
Visit Pestana Chelsea Bridge Hotel here
Perrier-Jouët Champagne Lounge at Dukes Hotel
Dukes Hotel is found unobtrusively tucked away in one of London’s most prestigious neighbourhoods. The stunning building graces a quiet corner of St. James’s and is a stone's throw away from Clarence House. In fact the site can trace its history back to 1532, and around the 1660s the courtyard in front of today's Dukes Hotel was occupied by Barbara Villiers, the Duchess of Cleveland, one of the mistresses of King Charles II. She bore the King three sons, who were all dukes. I don’t know if that’s where the hotel got its name from, but it’s a nice notion.
The courtyard was known as Cleveland Court and the two buildings within formed a small hostelry. These were demolished in 1885 and replaced with the present building, which originally housed London lodgings for the sons of Britain's nobility, until it became Dukes Hotel in 1908.
The hotel is thriving today and can boast an illustrious past, with such worthies as Sir Edward Elgar (composer of Pomp and Circumstance Marches) who always stayed at Dukes when in London. Also Ian Fleming was a frequent visitor to the celebrated Dukes Bar. It’s rumoured that it’s that very bar which gave him the inspiration for the famous James Bond Martini: “shaken, not stirred.” There will be more about that iconic bar in a future article here.
2011 marks the 200th anniversary of the House of Champagne Perrier-Jouët. The hotel has marked this occasion by opening its own Perrier-Jouët Lounge. This intimate yet striking space is located next to the dining room and is the perfect venue for a pre-dinner glass of champagne, or just for a very smart but accessible glass of fizz at any time.
Perrier-Jouët is a respected Champagne producer based in the Épernay region of France. The company was founded in 1811 by Pierre-Nicolas-Marie Perrier-Jouët. They produce approximately 3,000,000 bottles of vintage and non-vintage cuvée annually and their prestige label is called Belle Époque.The style of that era was christened Art Nouveau with its floral and organic motifs.
The Perrier-Jouët Lounge serves a full range of Champagnes including the classic Belle Époque, Belle Époque Rosé and the rare Belle Époque Blanc de Blanc. The house champagne is Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV which is available by the glass. There is a selection of five Champagne cocktails including ‘The Dukes Classic’; and ‘The Flower of Champagne’ with rose vodka and Lillet, garnished with a rose petal. I can highly recommend this delicate cocktail. Perhaps it’s one for the ladies as it has a distinct flowery note, reminiscent of Turkish Delight.
The lounge has been designed by Shaun Clarkson and boasts a
stunning
hand-stitched
carpet
featuring the Perrier-Jouët emblem of
anemone; a symbol which also embellishes the bottle of its prestige
Belle Époque Champagne. The walls are contemporary in tones of gold, champagne and muted green. There is a metallic sheen which reflects light from the1940's glass chandelier. A wall of gilt-framed, bevelled-glass mirrors adds to the drama. Modern, vintage and antique elements are married perfectly in this space.
The furniture is bold. The sofas are a modern take on a Chesterfield ...but the longest Chesterfield you have ever seen. The upholstery is a vibrant green with surprising fuchsia accents from a scattering of cushions. The daring colour combination continues even to the glassware: a swag of green foliage and pink blossom decorates each champagne flute. A few other comfy and classic chairs provide cosy seating for couples.
Dukes Hotel truly is a hidden treasure. It’s so high-end that it has Caviar House as its corner shop, yet it contrives to be a warm, friendly and discreet venue for stays in London, as well as providing delicious food for visitors (more on the restaurant in future articles). The Perrier-Jouët Lounge is an excellent addition to Dukes’ battery of facilities.
Dukes Hotel
St. James's Place, London SW1A 1NY
Phone: +44 (0)20 7491 4840
Fax: +44 (0)20 7493 1264
Visit Dukes Hotel here
The Chinese Cricket Club at The Crowne Plaza London - The City
It’s appropriate that I have a review of this restaurant just now. We have just watched the Cricket World Cup
semi-final and are about to settle in front of the TV to watch the
final (the equivalent of the American Super-Bowl or the Football World
Cup), when India will face Sri Lanka. But the food at this restaurant
is very definitely Chinese.The restaurant is named in honour of the Chinese National Cricket Team, who played their first international match in 2009. The title also commemorates, so says the website for the restaurant, the recent translation of the Laws of Cricket into Mandarin by the Asian Cricket Council. So does that mean the Chinese played their match before they had the rules?
The Chinese Cricket Club is across the lobby of the Crowne Plaza London - The City from Refettorio, the hotel's Italian restaurant run by head chef Alessandro and directed by Giorgio Locatelli. It’s refreshing to find more and more notable restaurants housed in hotels. The days of the assumption of a captive yet transient audience have gone. There
were
few over-nighting businessmen when we visited the Chinese Cricket Club,
but there were a couple of tables occupied by those who were evidently
regulars, and some of those were themselves Chinese.The restaurant is calm and contemporary, 80 covers set in an L-shape. Nothing overtly Chinese apart from some calligraphy scrolls, and nothing too crickety apart from a shirt and a bat. Enough decor fixtures to provide continuity with the intriguing name, but not to make one feel that your waiter should be wearing cricket whites and pads.
Brendan Speed is the Executive Chef at The Chinese Cricket Club. No, evidently he is not Chinese himself. He is
Australian
and has always had a passion for authentic Chinese food. Australia is a
great cricketing nation but also has a thriving Asian cuisine culture.
Brendan launched and ran Zuma in Istanbul for two years and that
restaurant won a raft of awards. Before that, he was Executive Chef at
Movenpick Hotels and Resorts in both Istanbul and Dar Es Salaam – a
well-travelled and experienced chef who is ably assisted by Guanghao
Wu, a Specialist Oriental Chef with a 20-year career.I do love the wasabi nuts at the Chinese Cricket Club. OK, so they are not traditionally Chinese but nevertheless moreish and hot, preparing our taste buds for some tingling Sichuan and Hunan spice later; and not much later as we were soon picking at a plate of dry sautéed green beans. This is
a practical method of cooking such beans: the colour remains vibrant
and the vegetables retain a crunch. These particular beans had
agreeable chilli heat.Soft-Shell Crab with Chilli Mayonnaise was a dish of rich decadence. However did we manage before soft-shell crab? They are popular and it’s no surprise. The version at the Chinese Cricket Club is as much about texture as taste. The mayo added gentle spice.
Singapore Cricket Club Noodles were a high-end variant of others you would probably have had. The difference here is the quality of those non-noodle ingredients. Large prawns made this simple dish into a rather luxurious plateful.
Jumbo Prawns with Ginger was visually the most spectacular of our chosen dishes. The shellfish was tender with a light glaze. These are more like small lobsters than your regular prawns, even those which sport the additional monica of ‘Jumbo.’ A subtle hint of ginger was a foil for the sweetness of the seafood.
Twice-Cooked Pork was memorable and must be a signature dish. I had expected chunks of the regular belly pork but the reality here was much more delicate. The slices of pork were thin-cut and melting, lightly spiced with rich and well-rounded flavour. I’ll not miss this on my return visit – for return there will be.
Hunan Lamb with Scallions is striking and full-bodied. Robust flavours here and just what one would expect from any recipe hailing from Hunan. This dish had a complex flavour palate and the spice was not numbing. A dish to savour with just some steamed rice.
Chilled Coconut Custard with Mango Sauce and a scattering of Lychee was the sweet finale. Creamy with tang from the mango and exotic perfume from the lychee. A suitably tropical end to one of the best Chinese meals I have had in London. The Chinese Cricket Club offers an oasis of quiet, garnished with delicious food and service that is second to none. It deserves its enviable reputation.
Opening times:
Mon - Fri Lunch 12:00 - 14:30
Mon - Sat Dinner 18:00 - 22:00
Sunday: Closed
The Chinese Cricket Club
Crowne Plaza London - The City
19 New Bridge Street, London EC4V 6DB
Phone: 020 7438 8051
Fax: 020 7438 8080
Email: info@chinesecricketclub.com
Visit the Chinese Cricket Club here
Eckington
Manor Cookery School and B & B
Eckington Manor is just outside the market town of
Pershore, Worcestershire, and could well provide one of the most
memorable breaks you have had in the UK. Well, if you are passionate
about food that’s almost bound to be the case. Eckington Manor is well situated for exploring both Worcestershire and the Cotswolds. Visit the Malvern Hills, historic Worcester cathedral, Cheltenham, and play a round of golf at the Vale Golf Club, just 15 minutes away. Worcestershire is a rich culinary destination, though. It produces some of the best British fruit and veg and that land also feeds prize herds of cows and sheep and pigs. What better place for a cookery school and especially one that has a farm tagged on?
Your original intention might have been to take a course at the celebrated cookery school but, human nature being what it is, you
will
be just as interested in where you will lay your head for a night or
two. It’s probable that you will be shown your room
before you even don an apron, and you will be astounded. This will
likely be the best Bed & Breakfast experience you
have had.The main accommodation building is a sympathetically restored 13th century farmhouse. Worcestershire boasts some marvellous examples of homes from every century since parish records began. Around the corner of every picturesque country lane one can find chocolate-box cottages or even farm buildings that one might be tempted to buy and convert into a dream home. That’s almost what Judy Gardner did when she acquired a rundown half-timbered structure, but her dream was to incorporate that soon-to-be stunner into a successful business of high-end accommodation and cookery school.
This isn’t just any old house. It’s said to be one of the oldest in Worcestershire. Its wooden beams are not just a characterful feature of the exterior, and there are original flagstone floors and fireplaces (with wood-burning stoves ideal for those cold winter nights), all of which have been retained and showcased on the inside of this cosy B & B. This should have a name other than ‘B & B’, which conjures visions of a stay in someone’s back bedroom, a sink in the corner and a pile of mismatched and sandpapery towels. Eckington Manor, on the other hand, is as good as you will find anywhere and can compete with the very best of boutique 5-star hotels.
It might have been tempting for Judy to play too much on the historic aspect of this old building. There could have been too many rustic touches of copper, brass and farm implements. Ever a woman of refined taste, she has focused on the contemporary with daring dashes of colour. The chaise-longue on the upper landing is said to have come from the “big house” in Windsor. I can’t prove it and I only say it’s rumoured.
Our room was a vision of sophistication with a French chair contrasted against original stonework, crisp white linen acting as a counterpoint to the aforementioned beams. The bathroom was striking with piles of fluffy towels, and toiletries to match the class of the amenities. Attention to detail and no corners cut with regard to quality and elegance. We slept soundly after a good meal at a local restaurant. There are light meals available here on request, too.
We were looking forward to breakfast at the school which is just across the yard. A modern building housing not only the school kitchen but a restaurant for breakfast and a kitchen shop which is well worth a look. The breakfast did not
disappoint,
with the ingredients being locally sourced – apart from the orange
juice, tea and coffee. The farm sausages should not be
missed. We had a chance to meet our fellow students who ranged in age
from early twenties with no previous conviction for kitchen behaviour,
to others who were seasoned veterans of the range. This was the first time I has attended a hands-on cooking class. I have enjoyed many a cooking demonstration at close quarters but this was far more rewarding even for a fairly practised home cook like me. Paul and Chris were our chefs and they evidently had a wealth of experience, giving confidence to the wary novice and expert advanced tuition to the enthusiast. We had a knife-skill master class and prepared two dishes. There were no failures, although the intricate garnishes proved to be more taxing to accomplish than the preparation of the 2-course meal! A positive learning experience and great fun.
We took the plates of food we had made with our very own, and now more able, hands to the dining room and enjoyed the fruits of our labours. Potato ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and served with a mushroom sauce, followed by salmon en papillote with julienned vegetables. A glass of wine with new-found friends completed a couple of days touring one of Britain’s most beautiful counties.
Eckington Manor is polished. It offers its guests a chance to relax in a unique environment of bespoke chic comfort. Whilst the classes are not compulsory it would be a shame to let such an opportunity pass. There are lots of courses to choose from and all conducted by professionals: Italian, Thai, Great British Classics, Modern British, Bread, and Fish classes, courses for children, teenagers, students and one just for men. I can thoroughly recommend a stay here.
Eckington Manor Cookery School
Manor Road, Eckington, Worcestershire WR10 3BH
Phone: 01386 751600
Fax: 01386 751362
Email: info@eckingtonmanor.co.uk
Visit Eckington Manor here
Brockencote Hall for lunch
Joseph and Alison Petitjean have owned and run Brockencote Hall for the last 24 years. They had been living in
France
and
were
just married, and they had a dream of opening a country house
hotel in England. They visited properties suitable for conversion to an
hotel and settled on Brockencote Hall. They bought the building in 1985
and 10 months later Brockencote was ready for business.The restaurant here is popular with locals around Worcestershire and with the AA who awarded the restaurant 2 Rosettes in 2008. It’s not only the food that’s a draw – they have a notable wine list. This grand house is described as “A little piece of France in the heart of England” so that country’s wines are well represented.
We visited Brockencote on a bright spring day. Daffs were glowing and new-born lambs were gamboling. The
Worcestershire countryside was at its fresh and budding best and the
Hall looked impressive in the sunshine. The estate
dates back 300 years or so with 70 acres of established trees and
pasture. This is the sort of stately home that tourists as well as we
British love so much. The entrance hall had a welcoming log fire burning which was appropriate for the day. Spring, yes, but this is England and the wind was chilly. The contemporary bar and conservatory was where we nestled to peruse the menu. Not a long bill of fare but just as one would wish from a high-end kitchen where quality is always paramount – and using seasonal and local produce where possible.
The main dining room (there are others for private dining) is stunning. High windows looked out onto some of those aforementioned acres. The house exudes an air of cultivated tranquillity and charm, and that includes the dining room which is an exercise in pastel shades – a room
that has contrived to retain its original majesty yet has introduced
cool modernity. We started with an amuse bouche, a demi-tasse of one of the most memorable soups I have ever had: a gloriously rich and creamy carrot and orange soup. (Note to reviewer: ask John for the recipe). A balance of sweet from the vegetable and tang from the citrus and then there was a deft application of aromatic seasoning. This should be a signature mini-dish.
Slow Cooked Belly of Jimmy Butlers Pork, Cabbage and Bacon, Spiced Apple, Pommery Mustard Jus was the main course. Well worth trying and one of the best examples of this trendy cut of meat that I have had in a while. The meat was flavourful and melting and the presentation thoughtful. I am not keen on pork belly with crackling. It seldom works and, in my humble opinion, it’s inappropriate for a slow-cooked item when one wants to enjoy the almost gelatinous quality of meat, flavourful fat and rind. Perfect!
The desserts here are visual stunners! OK, so I didn’t just give them admiring glances, I was enticed by a couple
and scoffed
mine and a good percentage of my companion’s. That’s not perhaps a very
genteel word but one only “nibbles” when being polite. I, on the other
hand, enjoyed every spoonful with appropriate epicurean passion. Goats Cheese Mousse, Poached Rhubarb, Gingerbread, Vanilla Ice Cream was my own choice and this was a delicious example of traditional ingredients as a canvas for culinary artistry. Sharp mousse, sweet rhubarb, punctuated with the spiced cake.
My guest’s choice of dessert was equally appreciated ...by both of us. Well, I was the official reviewer and it was my duty to taste, and in this case Parsnip Pannacotta, Caramelised Apple, Shortbread Crumb, Brioche Ice Cream. A slice of fruit like a disc of translucent glass balanced atop this unique parsnip preparation, which rather made one look at that root vegetable in a different light. A tapestry of texture and taste. Perhaps a parsnip is not just for Christmas but can actually be enjoyed! Another seasonal winner.
Chef John Sherry is a man content with his kitchen. He should be: Alison and Joseph rebuilt the old kitchen which
had become too small for such a successful restaurant. It’s now twice
the original size and is worked by a seven-strong team. They cook 350
or so lunches and dinners a week, as well as catering for weddings and
private dinner parties. It’s no surprise that they have so many regular diners at Brockencote Hall. The restaurant is striking, the staff attentive but not pushy, and the food is as good as you will find either side of La Manche. I look forward to a return visit. I’ll unwind in the lounge, take a stroll around the grounds to build an appetite for what I am sure will be a superb dinner. This is indeed a destination restaurant.
Two Courses £17.00
Three Courses £22.00
Brockencote Hall Country House Hotel & Restaurant
Chaddesley Corbett, Near Kidderminster, Worcestershire DY10 4PY
Phone: 01562 777876
Fax: 01562 777872
Email: info@brockencotehall.com
The Elms Hotel
Worcestershire
This is an imposing Queen Anne mansion. Go on, admit it,
you can’t remember who Queen Anne was and didn’t know she was a
builder. The Elms dates from 1710 and the exterior has all the elegant
proportions of a stately home of that period. It was designed by
architect Thomas White who was a pupil of the renowned Sir Christopher
Wren, designer of St Paul’s Cathedral. The house was sold in 1946 and
was turned into a country house hotel.The Elms is set in formal gardens and is surrounded by ten acres or so of parkland. This is very rural Worcestershire, and the house offers idyllic views over the Teme Valley and a good number of other counties. This is a perfectly-located base for trips to enjoy local festivals such as the annual celebration of Asparagus, and to soak up a little history in Worcester and its neighbouring towns. Malvern and Evesham are within easy reach.
The hotel has been completely refurbished but many of the public rooms retain the air of the traditional stately
home.
Dark wood, leather sofas and chairs and open fires exude old-fashioned
charm that tourists so love – or would if they could
find it. Paintings and busts of people that must have been famous all
add to the impression that this might still be someone’s ancestral pile.But The Elms is indeed a hotel and one that, surprisingly, is catering for families. Yes, families can book into any hotel but youngsters are more often just tolerated rather than welcomed. I had been expecting a Jolly Campers establishment with a uniformed glee club, but a childless adult here would have to seek out the child-friendly elements – there is nothing excessively kiddy-oriented at the Elms.
There is a baby-listening service so parents can leave the room and go for a thoroughly adult dinner with no worries about returning to a red-in-the-face and tearful tot. There is plenty to amuse those little ones during the day with their own Bears Den crèche (Ofsted registered). For older children, there’s an air-hockey machine, tabletop football, board games and an Xbox. Sounds as good as home! You might even coax the kids outside for croquet, outdoor table tennis, football, trampoline and there is an outdoor adventure playground.
The Elms boasts a family spa with a 12-metre swimming pool, thermal retreat with steam room, sauna and ice fountain (I am not sure I like the sound of that), Rasul mud therapy room, state-of-the-art gym equipment, and an indoor/outdoor Hydro Spa – that’s a spot for all the family to enjoy.
Our room was attractive and cosy. Stunning views over those aforementioned counties. The bathroom was well appointed and had a selection of high-end Spa toiletries, as one would hope at a hotel with a pampering annex. Tea and coffee-making facilities in the corner so we unwound, soaked and snoozed till dinner.
Head Chef Daren Bale has built The Elms’ fine dining reputation. He has won many accolades, including 2 AA Rosettes, Best British Cheeseboard, and Worcestershire Life’s 2007/2008 Restaurant of the Year. The dining room is elegant and striking with tables set with brass candlesticks and tall, white candles that gave one the impression of perhaps a classic French restaurant, the style of restaurant that encourages guests to speak quietly and probably about the arts or the latest in the Financial Times.
Pressing of Goose and Foie Gras, Pear, Pickled Wild Mushroom and Haricot Bean Dressing was my starter. The terrine was dense and flavourful. This would have made a very classy lunch item. The presentation was appealing and the garnishes appropriate for the goose.
Velouté of Jerusalem Artichoke, Langoustine, Peas and Lemon was my companion’s choice – a delicious bowl of delicate seafood and soup. This is the sort of dish that you’ll likely not cook at home. Not too difficult to replicate but this style of food is best enjoyed in a stunning, high-ceilinged, tall-windowed, imposing-fireplaced dining room. But perhaps you have one of those, chez vous.
We had seen lots of lambs on our drive to Worcester so it seemed a fitting, if slightly cruel, irony to eat some on
our
arrival. My guest ordered English Lamb with Stuffed Courgettes and
pronounced this to be a well-balanced and
thoughtful dish. The courgettes were filled with melting and evidently
slow-cooked meat, with peppers adding a sweet note.Pancetta-wrapped Monkfish, Chicken Confit Ravioli, Butter-glazed Carrots & Ginger took my fancy. Yes, I know it’s a classic choice but it’s popular because it is, done well, a memorable dish. It was indeed done well at The Elms. The previous plates had indicated that it probably would be. The flesh of the seafood was moist and the pancetta added just the right slightly salty counterpoint. I was a little uncertain about the garnish of chicken ravioli bit this too worked well, adding a soft and savoury gastronomic cushion. I can recommend this monkfish as the best I have had in many months.
We wanted to try The Elms’ celebrated cheese board, so had to skip the desserts. I would, however, have liked to have tried the Pear and Cranberry Strudel with Peanut Butter Ice Cream. That ice cream sounds novel.
We have marvellous cheeses here in Britain and it’s refreshing to find a restaurant that promotes them. So many establishments boast that they celebrate local produce but then present French cheese with only a nod to these Isles in the guise of a slab of Cheddar. We wanted to taste some very local cheese and so selected Blue Cheshire - Nantwich, Bosworth Ash - Staffordshire, Old Worcester White and the star of the plate, St Eadburgha made in the Vale of Evesham. This unique cheese is made at Gorsehill Abbey Farm by Michael and Diane Stacey. St Eadburgha is a Brie style of cheese and it’s organic but most importantly it is creamy and delicious. This should be in the cool-box of every homeward-bound tourist from Worcestershire. I am only sorry it was not in ours, but a return trip is in order.
The Elms is an ideal hotel for extended families. It isn’t a cheap option but it introduces younger members of the family to a real hotel. Children will find plenty to do, parents will have space and quiet to themselves, and grandparents can enjoy grandchildren in small doses and then escape to an armchair and a good book, or a terrace and a glass of something reviving. A unique family holiday destination.
The Elms
Stockton, Abberley, Worcester, WR6 6AT
Tel: 01299 896666
Visit The Elms here
Brocket Hall - Treats and Retreats
Stately Homes have always held a fascination. Great houses set amongst manicured lawns, and trees often
grown
from seedlings
collected by intrepid botanists a couple of centuries ago. But now we
can enjoy not only a few hours at these magnificent estates but we can
stay and play.When it comes to chequered and fascinating histories, Brocket Hall has one of the most colourful of any of our stately homes. Indeed the scent of intrigue wafts down its very corridors and into bedrooms named for some of the most scandalous characters of British society.
The Brocket Hall as we see it today was built by renowned architect James Paine for Sir Mathew Lamb in 1760. However, the Hall stands on the site of two previous houses, the first of which was built in the 13th Century.
Sir Mathew's son became the first Lord Melbourne, largely thanks to his notorious Elizabeth. She was a mistress of the Prince Regent, later George IV, who was, unsurprisingly, a frequent houseguest at Brocket Hall.
William Lamb, 2nd Viscount Melbourne, was a politician who served as Home Secretary and Prime Minister and was a mentor and close
friend
of
the young Queen Victoria, who often stayed at Brocket Hall. His wife,
Lady Caroline Lamb, had a liaison with the poet Lord Byron, whom she
described as being “mad, bad and dangerous to know.” Brocket Hall is
filled with feminine anecdote of loves and lovers. Much more
interesting than wars and warriors. On the death of Melbourne in 1848,
the Hall passed to his sister, who was to marry Lord Palmerston, the
man whose mistress she had been for many years.In 1923 the 543-acre estate was purchased by Sir Charles Nall-Cain; he was created Baron Brocket in 1933. It was converted for use as a maternity hospital during World War II, and over 8000 babies were born there. These infants, now pensioners, are called the Brocket Babies.
The estate was inherited by his son Charles Ronald Nall-Cain, who developed the estate and turned the Hall into a conference centre for corporate events and governmental meetings. In 1992 he built the first of two golf courses, which was named after the second Lord Melbourne. An ideal setting for women who want to play golf and who expect impeccable sports facilities as well as a good lunch. The golf isn’t mandatory, though: the grounds are ideal for gentle rambles around all those acres.
Brocket Hall is available for private hire and boasts an impressive ballroom where Lady Caroline Lamb first introduced the Waltz – a daring dance which found partners locked in an embrace. It has the second-longest table in Britain (called ‘The Prime Minister’s Table’) which looks stunning when laid with fine china, sparkling glassware and flowers for wedding parties or banquets. Huge chandeliers add still further to the timeless elegance.
The thirty bedrooms (another sixteen at Melbourne Lodge are also available) are decorated in sumptuous style with superb linen, original oil paintings and antique furniture. The unspoilt views from the windows transport one back to another era of opulence and charm.
The fine-dining restaurant Auberge du Lac is set in the grounds of
Brocket Hall. It was once a hunting lodge
and dates back to 1760. It
offers five unique dining rooms all with views across the championship
golf-course. The furnishings and attention to detail are everything
that you would expect from this Michelin-star restaurant.Executive Chef Phil Thompson joined Auberge du Lac in 2002 as sous-chef, after working with celebrated chefs in leading London kitchens including the Lanesborough (Phil was only 17 when he worked for renowned chef Paul Gayler) and L'Escargot. He took over as Executive Chef in 2005 and now showcases the best of British ingredients, as well as those from further afield, with flair and dare. It’s no surprise that he has once again retained the coveted Michelin star. He comes from a family of chefs so his culinary success is evidently a combination of genetics and immense skill.
The restaurant is famed not only for its haute cuisine but also for its exceptional wine cellar of 750 bins. Auberge du Lac’s chief sommelier, Laurent Tavernier, who has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants around the world, is responsible for pairing the best of wine with the best of food. He gives advice to the timid taster and presents the connoisseur with intriguing quaffing opportunities.
The main dining room is cosy and cottagey, more elegant than rustic with low lights and candles to add a sense
of
romance. A three-course
dinner can be had at a very affordable £55 but you will want to
take advantage of that comprehensive wine list.We sipped our 1998 Devaux Blanc de Blanc and pondered the menu. Half a dozen starters and the same of main courses. I chose Foie Gras marinated in Port and Armagnac with a garnish of gingerbread crumbs. A rich indulgence spread on a slice of toasted brioche. Laurent Tavernier suggested a pink Moscato called Innocent Bystander, from Australia. A quite exceptional lightly effervescent wine with a hint of melon, which I will be looking out for at the wine merchant’s.
My guest, a seafood lover, was tempted by the Mullet Ceviche but, reminded that American crayfish are now the scourge of British waterways, he was coaxed towards the poached crayfish. We couldn’t tell the nationality of the crustacean, but we hoped it was not native. Riesling Dreissigacker was the wine to accompany this starter – a good hit of citrus and a suspicion of apple.
My main course was a display of all things porcine. The fillet of pork was butter-tender and cooked to blushing medium rare; slow-roast belly was joined by black pudding and a sweet prune or two. It’s a popular liaison in France, but we in these islands have traditionally served apple with pork, so Phil Thompson coats his fillet with
this fruit,
creating an entente cordiale between the apple and dried plum. A glass
of Syrah from New Zealand was fruity with a subtle spiciness.The Hay-baked Lamb was always going to be the main course for my companion. The meat was first presented in its rustic terracotta pot with the still-glowing straw embers. The vessel was whisked away and the meat dusted off to return as a sophisticated plate of various cuts of lamb, a mound of couscous and a pithivier (flaky pastry pie) stuffed with goat’s cheese, anchovy and sweetbreads. The robust flavour of the little pie was contrasted by the sweetness of the lamb and complemented by a glass of Portuguese Romaneira, which was akin to port with full-on red berry flavour and of warm character. Ideal with any red meat.
The cheese cart at Auberge du Lac is legendary. It can muster around 25 diverse cheeses which are wheeled to one’s table on a sturdy, chunky, wooden trolley. I would recommend that you pace yourself, or regret, as we did, the lack of interior space to pack away a morsel or two of tangy blue or oozing Brie, but we couldn’t resist the desserts on offer.
My fellow diner once again chose an item cooked its own container. Honey-glazed Fig Tatin with Walnut Praline arrived in a miniature cast-iron casserole. Those little fruits still speak of warmer and more exotic climes, even though they are common in supermarkets these days. If one can’t pick figs warm from the tree then perhaps Phil Thompson’s confection comes a close second. Another Riesling was in order with this dessert. Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut from Clare Valley, Australia had the sweetness of honey with ripe citrus notes.
Granny Smith Soufflé, Poached Blackberries and Condensed Milk was the title of my finishing dish. I could tell you how much I love grassy fresh apple desserts; I could mention that blackberries remind me of childhood in warm late summer. Truth is that anything with condensed milk has got to be a winner. All the flavours and textures of this combination married together to give a twist to that traditional favourite of apples-and-blackberries. A glass of amber Jurançon from Chateau Joly was a perfect choice and is even available in some supermarkets.
I am sometimes disappointed by Michelin-starred restaurants. Perhaps one has unrealistic expectations. Chefs are only human and there is only so much innovation and polish that a humble plate of food can stand. Phil Thompson and his team are serving some of the best dishes around, at realistic prices, in a location that will entice you back for those special occasions. I defy anyone who has a passion for food to leave disappointed. Auberge du Lac surpassed all expectations.
Brocket Hall is situated just 22 miles from the West End of London. Seven miles away, Luton International airport offers private jet facilities. Alternatively, helicopters may be landed on the front lawn by prior arrangement.
Brocket Hall, Welwyn, Hertfordshire, AL8 7XG
Phone: +44 (0) 1707 335241
Fax: +44 (0) 1707 375166
Email: info@brocket-hall.co.uk
www.brocket-hall.co.uk
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
London is indeed one of the world's great cities. It’s a magnet for tourists from every corner of the globe. They come to visit famed monuments, museums stuffed with priceless antiquities, galleries hung with portraits of the famed and fabled, and a nice bit of shopping.
It’s a big town and London prides itself on its multicultural diversity. One can visit cafés selling Caribbean jerk chicken, buy a sari and some spices in an Asian neighbourhood, or enjoy some steaming baskets of dim sum in Chinatown, and it’s all within easy reach of the Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill. It’s conveniently situated to take advantage of public transport, and half the fun of visiting London is sitting atop a red bus or navigating the “Tube”.
I am a frequent visitor to central London so I have a focus on accommodation rather than sights. I am not an over-critical guest but I have high expectations when I travel. Comfort and good service are at the top of my agenda. A warm welcome awaits every guest at The Churchill, and I always leave reluctantly, and that is the best accolade one can give.
The Churchill offers the visitor a 5-star refuge from the bag-burdened throngs of Oxford Street, which is just 100 yards or so away. Selfridges is just a short stroll eastward. A day of retail therapy will leave one elated and exhausted, but a dinner and a comfy bed will revive those weary bones for a repeat performance the next day.
This hotel does double duty as an exceptional base for business as well as a family-friendly resort for those lucky ones who are not working. The hotel offers 12 function rooms for top-level meetings as well as private events – it even has a wedding licence. The facilities within the hotel and its location make this an ideal choice for those businessmen who want to bring their families with them.
Wives will love the department stores and shops of Oxford Street and Bond Street, as well as the independent boutiques of Marylebone. The Concierge is the person who will help you with recommendations and tickets for West End stage shows and cinemas. Plenty going on inside the hotel, though. How’s about a Cupcake Master Class with the chef? Ideal for a group as it’s fun for all ages. Or perhaps the Food and Wine Party Master Class for those who want to return home with some extra culinary skills. The hotel has a 24-hour state-of-the-art fitness centre, and a floodlit tennis court located in Portman Square just across the road, or one could walk in Hyde Park to wear off some of those calories.
There are lots of reminders of the eponymous politician here, as one would expect. The Chartwell Suite is the largest of the hotel's function rooms and is named after Sir Winston Churchill's home in Kent. There are three Cabinet Suites, Marlborough and Blenheim Rooms for meetings or lunch, as well as the Spencer and the Randolph Rooms to continue that historic theme. One might spot figurines or busts of the rotund politician as one wanders the halls.
Technology is writ (or should one say ‘texted’) large here. There are so many of us who must work when we are away that I was pleased to find a real desk in our room. There is an iPod docking station and TV for those who need in-room entertainment, and newspapers delivered to your door. Everything here for work and play.
The rooms are truly luxurious. The king-size beds are laid with that white linen that I prefer; I never have been keen on multi-coloured spreads. The pillows are mile-high, puffy towers that are a magnet after a few hours on the hoof. Sink into those piles and the next you’ll know, it’s dinner time. The rooms are in calming muted colours and many have views over the square and the aforementioned tennis courts. That oasis is having its pavements widened to create more leisure space. There is talk of a flower stall and some striking sculpture. An area for both art and activity.
Guests can enjoy a wide array of dining opportunities at The Montagu which offers British and European seasonal dishes, but it’s the traditional afternoon tea which is an unmissable event here, as the Montagu restaurant won The Tea Guild's Award of Excellence 2010. On the other hand one might choose Locanda Locatelli, which serves award-winning Italian cuisine from the celebrated chef Giorgio Locatelli; while the iconic traditional Churchill Bar has all the classic cocktails that one would expect from such a smart establishment. Plenty of choice here at any time of day.
A recent survey revealed that travellers look forward to breakfast more than any other meal when staying at hotels. This traveller is very much of that mind. The breakfasts here are outstanding, with enough variety for the practised grazer and plenty of alternatives for those who have bodies like temples. The hotel has such a cosmopolitan clientele that it is obliged to provide foods for every possible dietary need.
I spend much of my time in hotels these days but Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill remains one of my preferred stop-overs. Service is impeccable and the location cannot be beaten. Yes, it’s 5 star but it has a pleasing air of informality. Most importantly the rooms are comfy and well appointed. They have many regular guests here who appreciate class, style and amenity. Come to London to visit the Hyatt and perhaps go out to see the sights if you have time.
Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill
30 Portman Square, London, W1H 7BH
Phone: +44 20 7486 5800
Fax: +44 20 7486 1255
Email: london.churchill@hyatt.com
Visit The Churchill here
Castle House Hotel, Hereford
I confess, this isn’t a part of the country I know well. OK, it’s true, I am a city sort but I am increasingly charmed
by
our
beautiful
towns and rolling hills. I have even bought a pair of
green wellies for kicking through leafy forests and dewy dells.Hereford is a city, as it boasts a cathedral. A cathedral has stood in Hereford since Saxon times. The building we see today is a fine example of the mason’s craft, culminating in the twentieth-century New Library Building which houses the celebrated Chained Library. The oldest and most important book is the eighth-century Hereford Gospels. It’s one of a couple of hundred medieval manuscripts which now occupy two sections of the Chained Library, a truly unique and thought-provoking area which takes one back to an era when books were rare and libraries even rarer. I wonder if we are coming full circle with that issue.
The world-famous Mappa Mundi is on display at the cathedral. The Hereford Mappa Mundi is a map of the world, dating from around 1300 and is the largest medieval map known to still exist. It is drawn on a single sheet of vellum (animal skin). A must-see when you visit Hereford.
The Wye Valley countryside around Hereford is some of the loveliest in Britain. It’s designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The River Wye runs through the valley creating tranquil and picturesque vistas. The landscape typifies Chocolate-box-top England with fields, hedges and grazing sheep. Yes, it does still exist.
Castle House stands in a calm and classy corner of Hereford, but eight or nine hundred years ago the site was a busy crossroads in the old Saxon city, near to the ancient Hereford
Castle.
Now
the
traffic is mostly children heading down Castle Street to
school. It’s a privately-owned townhouse hotel and rumoured to be most
luxurious in Hereford. That’s a lie. No, not the bit about it being the
best hotel in Hereford, but it is not one but two townhouses merged
together to make a single architectural stunner. In the early 18th century, a local businessman built a pair of fine Georgian villas in what was then the middle of the road. The two houses looked directly down Castle Street towards the cathedral at the end. The rear of the building was added in the second half of the 19th century when the then-owner Frederick Boulton was granted permission to remove the party wall to make one magnificent house. There is little evidence of the conversion apart from the wide and imposing front door and the striking staircase in the hall.
From the 1920s Castle House was a boarding house then in the1940s it became a hotel for gentlefolk. It’s now been renovated with taste and sympathy. This Grade II listed building is privately-owned by local farmer David Watkins, whose produce features on the hotel menu and whose daughter now works at the hotel. Original features remain, whilst the hotel offers discerning guests high-end comfort in both public rooms and private suites.
The suites here are sumptuous. Ours had high ceilings, tall windows with a view towards the cathedral. The sitting area will likely be larger than your lounge at home. The oval desk sported a decanter of sherry but the guest need not worry that old-fashioned charm was maintained at the expense of 21st century technology. Every room has broadband access, TV
and music facilities. One can work and play.The four-poster bed was a delight and the linen was turned down each evening. The bathroom was well appointed with a selection of pampering toiletries that would have one lingering in steamy bliss. My advice would be to leave such soaking till after dinner or you might just miss a culinary treat.
The Castle Restaurant is one of the finest in Herefordshire. The kitchen might be small but chef Claire Nicholls presents food that has visual impact as well as being delicious. Claire trained at Hereford Technical College and then at the Birmingham College of Food. She lived in Hong Kong for two years and fell in love with Asian gastronomy, and that has had an influence on her choice of ingredients and presentation, which is delicate and thoughtful. She is a local girl but it’s her mum who noticed the vacancy at the hotel and thought that
her
talented
daughter
would enjoy returning home. Claire has been with
Castle House for more than eight years and has worked as Head Chef for
three. The restaurant has twice been awarded 3 AA Rosettes and Claire
is one of the very few female head chefs in the UK to have achieved
that. She has a quiet manner, but is well able to handle the rigours of
a professional kitchen.She takes pride in sourcing fresh ingredients from local producers and it’s no surprise that one of those suppliers is the owner of the hotel, who also owns Ballingham Farm. It’s only eight miles from Hereford and has been in David’s family for 120 years. They have a 100-strong pedigree Hereford herd, the meat from which is used in Claire's recipes whenever it’s available.
My guest ordered the Warm Salad of Wood Pigeon, Caramelised Apples, Quail Eggs and Black Pudding. These birds are a good introduction to game. This pigeon was mild flavoured, moist and tender.
I had already perused the menu and decided on my main course, so opted for a light starter of Warm Salad of Beetroot, Lentils, Walnuts and Quail Eggs. A tapestry of texture and taste.
Pan-fried Seabass was my companion’s choice for main course. The fish was perched atop a mound of Lime and Vanilla Mash which was a unique and excellent accompaniment to the sweet fish. Pakc
hoi
was
the
very Asian element here and the consumer of the above was a
contented diner.I was bound to pick the Rib Eye of Herefordshire Beef. Whilst I can’t swear that this cut came from David’s farm I should say that it was succulent and full of bovine flavour. I am not a great meat eater but it’s no surprise even to me that this is one of the most popular dishes here. Several American guests ordered the same and all appreciated the substantial plate. Yes, dear US visitors, we do have excellent food in the UK. Please spread the word to the folks back home.
Save a little space for dessert. We both enjoyed Sticky Banana and Date Pudding, Butterscotch Sauce, Roast
Bananas, Vanilla Ice. Don’t rush. Order a pudding wine or some coffee
and relax in candlelight and the gentle buzz of convivial conversation.Our stay was too short. We will be tempted back in summer. Perhaps we will sit by the old moat and watch the ducks, take a stroll around the old town, but we will be sure to be back for lunch. No, this isn’t a cheap hotel option but it is value for money. You get what you pay for, and the memories are priceless.
Breakfast is served from 7am - 10am
Lunch from 12 noon - 2pm
Dinner from 7pm - 10pm
(9pm on Sundays and Bank Holidays)
Castle House Hotel
Castle Street,
Hereford, HR1 2NW
Phone: +44 (0) 1432 356321
Fax us on: +44 (0) 1432 365909
Email: info@castlehse.co.uk
Visit Castle House here
the bell at skenfrith,
Monmouthshire
the bell (note the corporate lower-case letters) at
Skenfrith, Monmouthshire could easily be overlooked. You need
to
know
it’s there and it’s worth the drive down a few country lanes to
reach – although some guests have been known to arrive by helicopter.
It’s a restored 17th century coaching inn and was in a state of deep
dilapidation when it was rescued from total ruin by William and Janet
Hutchings. The work has been extensive but it’s been so sympathetically
executed that original features have been retained and there is a sense
of architectural continuity and harmony. This charming traditional
white building nestles by a stone bridge which straddles the river
Monnow - whence comes the name of the county. 
the bell was
re-opened in 2001 and already has an enviable reputation.
Visit Wales has awarded the bell Five Stars and they
are well deserved. There are polished black flagstone floors in the bar
and restaurant areas and the open log fire is a draw in
the winter months for those returning from an invigorating walk. This
is a popular region for ramblers and the bell provides
a selection of maps for those who want to take advantage of the
spectacular scenery. Plenty of history just a few yards away in the
village of Skenfrith which boasts the remains of its very own castle.
It’s one of the Marches Castles which were strategic Norman
fortifications built in the 13th century.Those aforementioned walkers can take the opportunity to toast frigid toes by the fire, whilst the sofas beckon loungers who might prefer to pass
some time with newspapers or
a good book. Outdoor sorts and the rest of us might have stayed the
night, in which case we will be refreshed from a good night’s sleep in
one of the eleven delightful bedrooms. These rooms are
far from the rubber-stamp spaces that one finds in those famous hotel
chains – one wakes to the same wallpaper and curtains in Paris as one
does in Prague. Here each individually-designed bedroom is furnished
with tasteful antiques and pictures. There are thoughtful touches such
as a jar of biscuits (cookies) and even a little something for a
nightcap. All bathrooms are en-suite and sumptuous. Ours was
marvellously appointed and piled with fluffy towels, bath robes and the
high-end toiletries that one would hope for in such an agreeable
establishment – worthy of stealing. The view over the garden at the
rear was beautiful, with a tree, bare of leaf but hanging with
mistletoe, taking pride of place on a cold February afternoon.The organic kitchen garden was established four years ago but it is expanding to provide even more produce for the head chef Rupert Taylor. He studied in Bath and his first position was at Homewood Park as commis chef to Gary Jones (now executive head chef at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons). There Rupert was part of the team that gained three rosettes and a Michelin star. Rupert left to join Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath and then on to Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck. From there he went to work for Jamie Oliver at his Fifteen Restaurant in Cornwall and then took a “gap year” to travel the world. He loves snowboarding and surfing but returned to join the bell.
Rupert’s Modern British cooking uses mostly locally-sourced and
seasonal
ingredients,
some
of which have travelled only a few yards. He liaises
with Michele Civil, the bell’s organic kitchen gardener. She is a
transplanted Yorkshire lass who bubbles with enthusiasm for her organic
fruit and veggies. Her produce has helped
to
win
two AA Rosettes. The kitchen garden has been featured in ITV
Wales' 'A Little Piece Of Paradise’.The food is some of the best in Wales. The menu isn’t long but offers something for every taste. Rupert, Michele and the proprietors William and Janet, know the butcher and the folks who dive for scallops; they work closely with other vegetable growers. Your plate will be full of delicious and seasonal fare and the presentation is guaranteed to be outstanding. Yes, one eats with one’s eyes but these dishes are to be savoured. A meal at the bell should be lingered over.
We settled ourselves on a sofa by the bar and enjoyed an amuse-bouche while we contemplated the food menu and the outstanding wine list. We nibbled pork gougons, herb straws, demi-tasses of soup and savoury bites. Ideal to accompany an aperitif. There is even a local vodka so do try a tot of that.
In 2008, William finally achieved his dream of a walk-in wine cellar to house his considerable stock of wine, champagne and cognac. These are all at very reasonable prices per bottle but there is a good selection of more than a dozen wines and champagnes that one can enjoy by the glass. One could create one’s own wine flight without breaking the bank. William’s passion for wine is not just a passing phase: he asked for a subscription to Decanter magazine
on
his
12th
birthday. He was apparently influenced by his uncle who headed
the Fine Wine department of Harvey’s of Bristol. I ordered the Scallops with Chorizo as my starter. The salt of the salami contrasted with the sweetness of those morsels of seafood. Rupert has an eye for imaginative yet apt presentation. My guest chose Mackerel which, although not exactly local either, was a good representation of the finest of British seafood. We have such abundance around our shores that it’s a shame to export it to mainland Europe. Let’s enjoy it at home.
I had expected something exceptional from Rupert and the main courses did not disappoint. My pork dish was a visual and epicurean stunner. The loin was pink as a baby’s bottom and the confit was as tender and flavourful as I have ever had. Quality
meat
treated
with
respect allowing its natural flavour to take centre stage.My companion was wooed by the Brecon beef. A sirloin cooked just rare – blushing but not oozing red. The mini streak-and-kidney pudding was proclaimed a triumph. Once again Rupert shows confidence, skill and humour, and the proof of the pudding was indeed in the eating. A signature dish if ever there was one.
Dessert had the very un-Welsh pineapple as its key ingredient. Pain Perdu (OK, so it’s eggy bread) with roasted pineapple and a fromage frais ice cream was excellent. The fruit and bread element would be simple to replicate at home and the ice cream is well worth trying if one has access to an ice cream maker. Subtle yet memorable.
They are civilised at the bell. They offer breakfast from 9am, but earlier by arrangement. This isn’t motorway services offering food on the run. One is cosseted, pampered and lulled into a cosy and content stupor here. Wander down to breakfast when you have enjoyed the papers and an early morning cuppa in your room. Try the cooked Welsh breakfast along with some toast and Michele’s homemade blackcurrant jam. Take a jar home to remind you of a couple of days of secluded bliss, some gentle exercise, a glass or two of outstanding wine, a night in a four-poster and the chance to read that best-seller by a real fire. One visit will never be enough.
Directions from London
Take the M4 over the new Severn Bridge as far as junction 24. Then take the A449 to Raglan, where it turns into the A40 to Monmouth, through the tunnel and straight over the lights. at the roundabout, take the first exit left. At the traffic lights, turn right onto the Hereford Road. Travel out of Monmouth for approximately 4 miles and turn left onto the B4521 towards Abergavenny. the bell is 3 miles on the left hand side.
the bell at skenfrith
Skenfrith
Monmouthshire
NP7 8UH
Phone: 01600 750235
Fax: 01600 750525
Visit the bell here
Whisky & Cheese
Matching at the Athenaeum
This was our first visit to this most charming of central
London hotels. Its location is hard to beat, being on
Piccadilly and between Green Park and Hyde Park Corner Underground
stations. It graces a plot opposite the aforementioned Green Park and
extends that theme of verdant lushness to its very walls. Yes, The
Athenaeum sports a living façade of vegetation which is quite
remarkable.The building has had a long and fascinating history which I shall explore further in my following feature in a few weeks. It successfully juggles the comforts and daring panache of a high-end contemporary hotel whilst artfully retaining classic features. The Athenaeum has ‘cosy’ writ large. It has contrived intimate spaces at every turn, not the least of which is the celebrated whisky bar. It’s rumoured to accommodate the largest collection of the eponymous beverage outside bonny Scotland.
Executive Chef David Marshall is passionate about fresh produce and one can add cheese to that list. He has created cheese with the finest of artisan cheese-makers. It’s not just the finished article that holds
fascination for this chef but also the
alchemy of transforming milk into a variety of memorable savoury
temptations – each one with its own distinct characteristics of taste
and texture and visual appeal.We sampled a selection of remarkable cheeses and a couple of noteworthy whiskies. My advice would be to choose your whisky first and then ask the sommelier to construct a cheeseboard to complement your spirit. Take a small chunk of cheese and nibble before you sip. Add a dash of water to your glass to release the full complexity of the celebrated Water of Life. Turn your tasting into a masterclass.
Whisky and cheese together add up to an unsurpassable combination. The range of flavours spanned by first class cheese and whisky is so vast that matching them can be quite a tricky business. Whisky Sommelier Angelo, Executive Chef David and Cheese Expert Alex James feel confident that they have found the ultimate combinations of outstanding whisky and fine cheese. Sometimes it's the most unlikely combinations that produce the most spectacular results.
Blue Monday & Balvenie Doublewood 12yr old
Westcombe Cheddar & Chivas Regal 12yr old
On 15 January 2009, our Executive Chef David Marshall and a few of his kitchen team visited the Lower Westcombe Farm in Shepton Mallet in Somerset. Cheese has been made on this Farm since the 1890’s and they have won the Gold World Cheese Award in 2010. This cheese has been maturing on our premises for nearly 18 months and is now ready to eat. The Blended Scotch Chivas 12yr old is amber in colour and with its harmonious aroma of herbs is the perfect match for our Westcombe Cheddar.Suffolk Gold & Gentleman Jack
A semi-hard farmhouse cheese with a delicious flavour and a rich, golden colour. The cheese making is a family business, the milk comes from a herd of pedigree Guernsey cows and the cheese is produced using traditional methods. Gentleman Jack is the first new Whiskey from the Jack Daniel Distillery for 100 years and is blended based on a private recipe from Mr. Jack. Its smooth and satisfying taste brings out hidden flavours in the
cheese
and
the
two
matched
together
make
for
a
stunning
finish.Parmigiano Reggiano & Aberfeldy 12yr old
Gourmets consider Parmigiano Reggiano a splendid "table cheese" for eating, not merely for grating. Parmigiano Reggiano is made from raw cow's milk. Traditionally, cows have to be fed only on grass or hay, producing grass-fed milk. The outcome is a rich, fruity flavour with a flaky, grainy texture. Aberfeldy 12yr old has a distinct fruity nose with notes of pineapple and cereal and boasts a syrupy palate. With a slightly spicy finish, this Whisky complements the rich flavour of the cheese and balances the best of both worlds.Golden Cross Goats Cheese & Dewar’s 12yr old
Golden Cross Cheese Company is a family owned business that has been producing award winning goat's cheeses on the farm since 1989. The herd of 300 goats grazes outside during the summer and is fed hay all year round. The cheese is made daily on the farm. Each log is lightly charcoaled and becomes denser, creamier and fuller flavoured as it matures. This cheese is matched with Dewar’s 12yr old, a blended Whisky with a hint of Scottish heather and a fruity nose. The hint of oak complements the flavour of the cheese and the sweetness of the Whisky blends perfectly with the creamy taste of the cheese.Tornegus & Glenfiddich 12yr old
This Cheese is made in Somerset and matured in Surrey by washing the rind with Kentish wine and sprinkling the cheese with lemon verbena and peppermint. It has a pungent aroma and a smooth texture. The 12yr old Speyside Single Malt Glenfiddich features elegantly rounded flavours and its notes of fresh pears and subtle oak harmonize perfectly with the silky and sweetish finish of the cheese.1 pairing £15
4 pairings £50
The Athenaeum,
116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7BJ
Visit The Athenaeum here
Men’s Afternoon Tea at De Ville restaurant
The Mandeville Hotel is located in the trendy Marylebone Village, within a few minutes’ walk of some of London's most exciting shops, art galleries and Mayfair hotspots. The hotel is on Mandeville Place which must be one of the most elegant yet overlooked corners of this neighbourhood – known by locals but passed by tourists.The Mandeville’s classic facade hides a contemporary gem. A well-appointed hotel, a bar that will soon have the reputation as the place to be seen, and a restaurant that is a striking and versatile space designed by world-celebrated interior designer Stephen Ryan. De Ville Restaurant is both relaxed and sophisticated with an ambiance that changes as the day passes.
The décor of the dining room is of monochrome floral wallpaper of bold design with unique wall lights in the form of Venetian masks. The lounge area where tea is mostly taken offers the visitor sofas in chunky cord upholstery, puffy cushions and some truly original furniture. A comfy spot yet one that does make a fashion statement.
Men's Afternoon Tea at The Mandeville Hotel is the only Afternoon Tea especially for men in London. It’s a suitably masculine event but one which panders to refined taste. This particular tea also offers the guest a range of whiskies as well as the usual champagne. The Tiffany blue china is devoid of those chintzy roses that manly sorts often find intimidating.
.
Men’s Afternoon Tea has robust sandwiches such as Crab and Shrimp in basil bread, Roasted Sirloin with red onion thyme jam in foccacia bread ( a particular hit with my manly guest), Beef and Chicken Satay with chilli créme fraiche for dipping, Grilled Mediterranean vegetables with tallegio, gratinated, on black olive ciabatta (an open sandwich and full of favour). Morecombe Bay Potted Shrimps were served with Gentlemen’s Relish and toast, which made this savoury selection a worthy meal in its own right.
Man cannot live by savoury snacks alone so this tea offered an assortment of pastries and cakes. Double Chocolate Brownie, Fruit Cake with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Lemon-Basil Tarts, Chocolate-Blueberry Cheesecake, Fig Chocolate Beignets, could all be garnishing your personal masculine three-tier stand. Scones, in my opinion, should always be included and they were here, freshly baked, with bowls of Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry jam. A splendid show.
Special mention must go to the Fig Chocolate Beignet. Looking like a small doughnut, the soft and spongy jacket protected a layer of chocolate and a whole fruit. This was quite a delicious innovation and one that I will be driven to replicate in my own home. Far from mundane.
Selected teas and herbal infusions are served to help down the mounds of savouries and sweets. The Mandeville Special Blend is a good standard tea, but the delicate Jing vanilla black tea was my guest’s beverage for the afternoon. There are a couple of whiskies here to add even more to the male teatime experience. Choose from Lowland Rosebank 12yr Old, Highland Glen Garioch 15yr Old, or Speyside Balvenie 12yr Old, any of which might appeal to those who arrive frozen after arduous hours accompanying enthusiastic shoppers – they have an excuse for a warming glass.
Afternoon Tea for the ladies includes a selection of traditional sandwiches such as Scottish Smoked Salmon, Free
Range Egg
Mayonnaise with Cress, Home Cooked Ham with Grain Mustard, Roasted
Organic Chicken, and Cucumber. The Freshly Baked Raisin Scones, etc,
are also a fixture along with a decadent and substantial assortment of
pastries and cakes. The Zandra’s Pink Meringues are show-stoppers and
big enough to defeat even the most ardent meringue lover. You might
find a cupcake with delicate icing (these are also presented garnished
with a candle for those special surprise occasions that one always
dreads). Miniature éclairs and rose macaroons could also put in
an appearance along with the ever-popular chocolate brownie.You will obviously want a cup of reviving tea with your indulgent treat. Flowering Osmanthus, Whole Chamomile Flowers, Peppermint Leaf, Whole Rose Buds, Jing Blackcurrant & Hibiscus are all suitably feminine. The rose tea is perfumed and seems somehow appropriate for the china, designed by the aforementioned Zandra – none other than the celebrated Zandra Rhodes. Perhaps a glass of fizz would help the sweets along and the Champagne Afternoon Tea here is rather good value.
De Ville restaurant is contemporary but with the classic attentive service that one always hopes to find in boutique London hotels. It offers an island of tranquillity just a stone’s throw from the throb of city energy from the capital’s retail hub. Fine food with a touch of innovation at a reasonable price. An accessible gem.
Visit here for the Christmas Afternoon Tea.
Men’s Afternoon Tea £23.50
Whisky Afternoon Tea £31.00
Champagne Cocktail Afternoon Tea £33.00
Champagne Afternoon Tea £31.00
Laurent Perrier Rose by the Bottle £93.00
Afternoon tea is available from 3pm to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday
Breakfast
Monday to Friday from 7.00am to 10.00am
Saturday and Sunday from 8.00am to 11.00am
Lunch is served between 12.30pm and 3.00pm
Dinner is served between 7.00pm and 11.00pm
Reservations: +44 (0)20 7935 4040
De Ville Restaurant
The Mandeville Hotel, Mandeville Place, London W1U 2BE
Telephone: +44 (0)207 935 5599
Facsimile: +44 (0)207 935 9588
Email: info@mandeville.co.uk
Visit The Mandeville Hotel here
Langtry’s Restaurant
The Cadogan Hotel in Sloane Street, Knightsbridge, was built in 1887. The name commemorates the Earls Cadogan, who, through their company Cadogan Estates have owned Sloane Street and the surrounding area for generations.This marvellously appointed Victorian luxury hotel was, soon after its opening, to play host to the arrest of playwright Oscar Wilde. On April 6 1895, genteel Victorian society was rocked by the “incident”, in room 118, which was immortalised by John Betjeman’s poem, “The Arrest of Oscar Wilde at the Cadogan Hotel”:
“Mr. Woilde, we ‘ave come for tew take yew
Where felons and criminals dwell:
We must ask yew tew leave with us quoietly
For this is the Cadogan Hotel.”
The poem recounts the arrest of the Irish writer on various charges of indecency. Wilde was convicted and jailed for two years.
Perrier Jouët Champagne was Oscar Wilde’s drink of choice during his visits to The Cadogan, and I am sure he missed it when incarcerated in Reading Jail. Following his arrest he asked his partner to pay his “PJ” bill, hence ensuring its everlasting link with the hotel.
Actress Lillie Langtry was a friend of Oscar’s. She was a celebrated beauty and was nicknamed the "Jersey Lily". She had a number of prominent lovers, including the future king of England, Edward VII. She lived at 21 Pont Street from 1892 to 1897. That’s a red-brick building conveniently connected to the Cadogan. Even after she had sold the house and it had been incorporated into the hotel, Lillie would stay in her old bedroom, which was where she entertained her royal admirer.
The décor of the dining room is
subtle
in
taupe
tones.
The
walls
are
resplendent
with
plaster
mouldings,
and
that
artistry
continues
onto
the
ceiling
where
hangs
a
crystal
chandelier,
said
to
have
been
there
when
this
room
was
part
of
Lillie’s
home.
It’s
a
small and
sophisticated dining room which has a magnificent Carrera marble Louis
XIV fireplace as a focal point. This is bijou elegance seldom found
these days. It is unique in that it not only seems Victorian but indeed
is Victorian, and very much reminds one of those days of opulence and
scandal, of boastful architecture and proud tradition. Langtry's offers a range of classic British dishes executed by Head Chef Oliver Lesnik. Yes, classic but thoughtfully tweaked for contemporary appeal. The dinner menu has a comprehensive bill of fare and lunch has a list that is equally tempting although shorter.
My starter was Italian Ham and Grilled Figs. Simply plated yet having all the charm of a still-life. The figs glistened with caramelised sugar which gave texture and sweetness to the delicately perfumed fruit. A small flute of bread (made in the kitchen on the premises) completed that introduction to the style of Oliver’s food.
Smoked Salmon with Caper Berries was what appealed to my guest. This was an honest, generous and unfussy serving of this traditional appetiser. No intricate roses of fishy flesh. No folds of constructed piscatorial pleats. Just a plate covered with smoked salmon and a little garnish was well received.
Beef Stew with celery and a rich gravy was bound to be my companion’s main course on such a chilly winter’s day. Chunks of tender meat were joined by a side order of the creamiest creamed potatoes to add still more comfort to an already warm and homely dish. An old-fashioned delight.
I am seldom persuaded by a steak but our neighbours had ordered the spatchcock chicken from the Grill section of the menu, and those boarded meals did look enticing. I settled on the sirloin steak and it was cooked to pink-interiored perfection. Marked by the grill and well-flavoured, it was everything that a carnivore could ask for. For those of us who eat beef so seldom, it is indeed a treat and one that I savoured at Langtry’s.
The dessert list offered me Eton Mess with Cherries, amongst others. This is a very traditional pud and is said to be the result of a culinary accident at the eponymous boy’s school. One should perhaps be grateful to the slippery floors and ungainly waiters of that establishment, although I am sure no such creature exists within Langtry’s.
My guest tucked into Banana Bread and a substantial scoop of real clotted cream. Another memory of teatime cakes. That is perhaps the theme of this restaurant: it evokes thoughts of gentler days when life was less hurried. A place to return to again and again.
Langtry’s has a popular offer for weekends:
Saturday and Sunday Lunch.
This offer is valid for a maximum of 6 people per booking.
£45.00 for 3 courses including Champagne Perrier Jouët.
£35.00 for 3 courses including Louis de Custine Champagne.
Opening hours
Breakfast
07.00 am - 10.30 am (Monday to Friday)
08.00 am - 11.00 am (Saturday and Sunday)
Lunch
12.00 am - 2.30 pm (Monday to Sunday)
Dinner
6.00 pm - 10.30 pm (Monday to Saturday)
Langtry’s Restaurant
21 Pont Street, London, SW1X 9SG
Tel. + 44 (0)20 7201 6619
Fax + 44 (0)20 7245 0994
Visit Langtry’s restaurant here
Royal Park Hotel London
The park mentioned in the name of the hotel is none other than Hyde Park. It’s that iconic open space that,
along
with
Regents
Park,
has
provided
both
Londoners
and
visitors
with
some
much-needed
breathing
space.
Hyde
Park
and
Kensington
Gardens
are
a
walk
away
from
the
Royal
Park
Hotel
but
it
is
also
thankfully
close
to
public
transport
links
for
those
occasions
when
travel
by
foot
is
a
step
too
far:
Paddington
Station
with
both
rail
and
Underground,
and
a
famous
bear,
in
one direction and Lancaster Gate tube in the other.
It’s only 15 minutes from Heathrow on the Heathrow Express. An ideal
location for overseas guests.Royal Park Hotel is an early-Victorian building comprising three restored mid 19th-century Grade II listed townhouses, of the style so often seen in period dramas. Iron railings, a short flight of steps to black glossy doors, polished brass nameplates, pillars, and sash windows all contrive to give the impression of traditional English opulence and charm, and there is an interior that continues that stylish theme.
The reception area is a light and spacious hall with tiled floor and an imposing sideboard which acts as the hotel honour bar. Stairs to the lower ground floor lead to the courtyard garden, a welcome addition to any city hotel. A cosy garden for a cup of afternoon tea or an evening glass of champagne and a brace of canapés, both fizz and nibbles coming with the compliments of the manager.
We were shown to our 1st floor
suite. A
charming room with a lofty
four-poster bed which will be considered a romantic asset by all but
those who suffer from vertigo or those much under average height.
Impressive, and one of the most comfortable beds I have ever graced.
Cinnamon-coloured walls and high ceilings were complemented by
well-chosen oil paintings.A small ante-room acted as both TV room and breakfast room for the duration of our stay. A table with two chairs, and French doors onto a small balcony with a view over trees to similarly historic town houses. It’s a surprisingly tranquil corner of the capital.
I had some work to do so was pleased to learn that Wi-Fi was available in the bedroom along with a desk with power points, as one would expect from a luxury hotel. And a second TV in the bedroom for the use of unreasonable partners who would prefer an evening sans World Cup.
The bathroom was large and sported two Victorian-style basins with limestone surrounds, UK and US bathroom shaver outlets, full bath with limestone tiles and some rather nice toiletries which I confess I was driven to snaffle. Not a habit which I would ordinarily condone but I consider it a compliment to the good taste of the hotel management.
A separate WC with the same antique porcelain added to the luxury.Plenty of wardrobe space here along with dressing gowns and slippers. Another cupboard contained the well-stocked mini-bar and safe deposit box. Several polished wood chests of drawers gave enough storage for even the most dedicated shopaholic.
The Royal Park Hotel doesn’t have a restaurant but Thierry Tomasin’s Angelus Restaurant does the honours for private dining. Tomasin was chief sommelier at Le Gavroche before becoming the General Manager at the celebrated Aubergine Restaurant in Chelsea, prior to opening Angelus in 2008. What could be better than a sumptuous dinner served in your room?
We slept like logs but had no worries about the lack of a dining room here. We had ordered our breakfast the afternoon before. It arrived at the designated hour along with the morning papers. We chose to have a light bite this morning with the Park Breakfast: lots of hot toast and conserves, orange juice, large pot of tea, muesli, yoghurt and warm croissants. For those visitors who have heard so much about the celebrated British breakfast, The Royal Park has a very decent Full English Breakfast. Nice to see an A la Carte selection with enough choice to satisfy any dietary needs or preferences. Porridge with spicy apple compote and maple syrup sounds divine on a cold London morning, but a French friend who often visits the hotel is in love with soft-boiled eggs and buttered soldiers. The aforementioned soldiers are not members of HM armed forces but fingers of bread for dipping into golden-yoked egg.
We had a fitting end to a thoroughly relaxing break. This hotel is a perfect bolthole for visitors from out of town, and beyond these shores.
The Royal Park Hotel overview:
48 elegantly furnished rooms and suites
24-hour room service and Concierge service
Great for access to Central London and West End including Oxford Street and Notting Hill
Fully equipped meeting room
Private dining available in all rooms
Private garden terrace
15 minutes from Heathrow on the Heathrow Express
Complementary Wi-Fi Internet for all guests
The Royal Park Hotel
3 Westbourne Terrace, Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park, London W2 3UL
Tel. 44 (0)20 7479 6600
Fax: 44 (0)20 7479 6601
Email: info@theroyalpark.com
Visit The Royal Park Hotel here
Nipa Thai Restaurant
A couple of decades ago a Thai restaurant was rare. It’s the advent of cheaper long-haul flights and more adventurous eating habits that has allowed this exciting and vibrant cuisine a foothold in London. Its flavours combine the whole available spectrum from sweet to spicy and everything in between.There are good Thai restaurants all over the capital and these days most high streets have an example. One of the best, however, is neatly tucked away inside the anonymous confines of the Lancaster London hotel at Lancaster Gate. The 1960 facade offers not a hint of the exotic opulence awaiting the diner on the first floor.
It might seem a bit cheeky to walk through those revolving doors into one of the smartest 5-star hotels in London. It is, however, a public restaurant open to passing trade as well as hotel guests. Just march past reception, turn to
the
left, up the stairs to the right and across the hall. You won’t
miss Nipa. It has the most striking and elegant frontage of any
restaurant. A vision of intricately carved teak which
sets the scene for more of the same inside.Nipa is the twin of the Nipa in Bangkok’s Landmark Hotel. Nipa is one of a small group of Thai restaurants in the UK to have received the “Thai Select” award from the Thai Government for restaurants achieving the highest standards of quality and cuisine. There are only 15 such award-holders in the UK. It’s the equivalent of a Thai Michelin star so we were assured of something special.
The charming manager of the London incarnation of Nipa, Mr. Kaseam Jongpitikrat, told us that Nipa was named after the owner’s wife and it means ‘pretty lady’. The restaurant takes on that characteristic, being one of the most attractive restaurants you will ever find. It gives the sense of an authentic wooden bungalow. It’s ornate with nooks displaying Thai crafts. It seats 60 or so and this creates an intimate ambiance. The floor-to-ceiling windows have one of the most enviable views in London. The Italian Gardens and the trees of Hyde Park will be the backdrop to your meal. The waiting staff are dressed in white costumes with gold sashes to add still further to the atmosphere.
Head chef Ms. Nongyao Thoopchoi was one of the staff, along with Mr. Kaseam Jongpitikrat, who came from Bangkok to open
London's
Nipa
in
1995. She and the other lady chefs of the Nipa kitchen
are responsible for the preparation of this vibrant food from
traditional recipes, each platter superbly garnished with carved
fruit and vegetables. A touch of royal elegance. Thai prawn crackers with real peppery bite were our nibbles as we perused the menu. You don’t need to be an expert on Thai cuisine. The staff are all Thai and are happy to advise you about the dishes that will best suit your taste. If in doubt then consider one of the set menus. Some dishes are fiery hot but others are more subtle.
The mixed starter platter gave us a selection of different small bites. Por Pia Tod - deep-fried spring rolls with glass noodles and crab meat, prawn-filled Beggars Purses, Tod Man Pla -Thai fish cakes with dipping sauce, and Chicken Satay with cucumber relish and one of the best peanut sauces I have had in ages. Rich and thick and I could eat a
bowlful with a spoon. A must-try at Nipa.The first of our main courses arrived. The crab was a delight: Yum Ma Muang Poo Nim, crispy soft-shell crab with spicy mango salad. The batter was crunchy and more evident than that for, say, tempura but it was light and marvellously seasoned by the green mango, which gave freshness to the dish.
The stir-fried scallops with green asparagus - Nor Mai Fa Rang Phad Hoy Shell was a delicate dish. The texture of the bright vegetables was contrasted with the superbly cooked shellfish. A flavourful sauce bathed both components and was a garnish for the fluffy rice.
Thai Green Chicken Curry - Kaeng Kiew Warn Kai - was both spicy and aromatic. Full of white chicken with a creamy sauce. A typical Thai menu item but done well here. Yes, it’s a standard dish but it’s popular because this authentic Thai Green curry is remarkable, with depth of flavour and unctuous texture. The Nipa curry is doubtless a favourite with its many regular visitors.
Lychees were my dessert of choice as I love that distinctive perfumed taste - cool and a good digestive. My guest ordered the slightly more adventurous, delicious and strikingly red Tab Tim Krob - water-chestnuts coated with tapioca flour in coconut milk and syrup, served in a Martini glass. That has to be the perfect dessert to end a romantic Thai meal.
Nipa is award-winning and it’s easy to see why. There is casual elegance, charm and grace. We might not all be able to afford a trip to Thailand but an evening at the Royal Lancaster offers a few hours of tranquillity and lovely food.
Opening times:
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat:
Lunch: 12:00pm - 2:00pm,
Dinner: 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Sun: 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Asian restaurant review: Nipa Thai Restaurant
1st Floor, Lancaster London Hotel, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY
Phone: 0872 148 2433
Email: nipa@lancasterlondon.com
The Lancaster London Hotel Peter Pan Afternoon Tea
Peter is a seven-day-old infant who, "like all infants", used to be part bird. Peter has complete faith in his flying abilities, so, upon overhearing a discussion of his future adult life, he is able to escape through the window of his London home and return to Kensington Gardens. Well, who can blame him? He is, however, the only “infant” with such a history to be immortalised in bronze in his beloved Kensington Gardens, and in a book bearing his name.This year sees the 150th anniversary of Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie's birth! He documented Peter’s adventures and gave all rights to his books to Great Ormond Street Hospital when he died in 1937. Peter is mischevious and iconic, and he conjures memories of a more innocent and quintessentially English world.
The bronze statue of Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens is one of the most popular monuments in London. He stands along the west bank of the Long Water. This site has a particular importance for Peter Pan and was specially chosen by J M Barrie – an enchanted glade where often, I have heard tell, one can find a golden sheen of fairy dust. But where can one get a bag of good quality fairy dust these days? The 5-star Lancaster London Hotel near Lancaster Gate has a supply.
The Lancaster London is appreciated for its panoramic views over Hyde Park, the largest of London’s Royal Parks; and then there is London’s famous skyline to enjoy. It is one of the tallest buildings in this prestigious area, with over 18 floors. The Lancaster boasts a brace of popular restaurants including the exotic and elegant award-winning Nipa Thai restaurant, but our goal was the Lounge Bar to enjoy an oasis of calm and a traditional English Afternoon Tea with a difference. One might describe it as a tea with character.
Not only does this attractive hotel have an amazing location but it also has that fairy dust. It’s probable that they have cornered the market. Rather than keeping it to themselves the management have chosen to donate a bag of the precious commodity (OK, so it looks like nuggets of bread) to every teatime guest. They have even included a map so you can find your way to Hyde Park to feed the aforementioned fairy dust to the ducks.
They
do teatime so well at the Lancaster. The Lounge Bar is a vision of
gold-hue carpet and dark wood. The bar area is an annex off the wide
lounge area, which is lined with low tables, and the chairs and sofas
are of the sleep-inducing comfort style. There is just a gentle buzz of
discreet conversation from our fellow guests, some of whom were
children utterly enthralled by the theatre of the event as well as the
prospect of a glimpse of a particular lost boy. The ambiance is
casually formal as one would expect and just right for a grown-up tea
party.The afternoon tea here is one of the most reasonable around. It has all the elements of the classic version but with thoughtful, not to mention delicious, extras. The tea table is laid with crisp white linen, sugar bowl, tea cups and plates, not forgetting the small pouches of the essential fairy dust. The traditional 3-tier silver stand arrives accompanied by squeals of delight from the smaller of the assembled guests. However many times I see such a display I am still excited. Nostalgia at its finest.
Crème
Brulée
isn’t a typical teatime item but here it is
served as an Amuse Bouche before the main event. It was a Passion Fruit
Crème Brulée served in a small taster ramekin. I trust
this would be available in the Lancaster’s Island Restaurant along the
hallway. It was a tangy stunner. One must have some savoury before the
sweet so the lowest level of the stand housed the Lost Boy’s
Sandwiches. These were a selection of Peanut Butter and Banana on
wholemeal bread (sounds a strange combination but this really works),
Smoked Chicken, Spring Onion and Mayonnaise on walnut bread; Egg
Mayonnaise and Cress on herb bread. There were also miniature Smoked
Salmon and Cream Cheese scones with chives, and Cheese and Caraway
scones with honey-roast ham and mustard. Little additions to the
typical spread.Scones are an essential part of any self-respecting tea, and the Lancaster offers Mrs Darling’s Scones (is this poetic licence or is the chef honestly called Mrs Darling?) These are served with strawberry jam or honey, and clotted cream. They were light and flaky scones and a good transition from the savoury sandwiches to the sticky sweetness of the delicately-executed fancy cakes garnishing the top layer of the stand.
As one would expect, these tarts, cookies and gateaux were labelled “Peter and Wendy’s favourite treats” and were a collection of strawberry mille-feuille, fresh fruit tarts, dark chocolate mousse, pecan tarts, Viennese shortbread and macaroons. All attractive and delicious, and helped down with several pots of hot jasmine and green tea.
One might not be able to “take tea” every day but The Lancaster provides a lovely venue for passing a few unhurried hours in the most perfect of surroundings. Great value for money for an exceptional experience.
The Peter Pan celebration tea is available in the hotel’s first floor Lancaster Lounge every day from 3pm until 5.30pm.
Lancaster London Hotel, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY
Telephone: 020 7262 6737
Facsimile: 020 7724 3191
Visit the web site here
Afternoon Tea at Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
Afternoon tea is very much in vogue these days, so why wouldn’t you have a traditional afternoon tea in London, the capital of European tea-drinking? If you are going to the trouble of visiting London then you want to enjoy afternoon tea at its best and that’s just what Hyatt Regency The Churchill offers.This striking hotel can be found just a couple of minutes’ walk away from Oxford Street, one of London’s most popular shopping thoroughfares and a magnet for those seeking therapy of the retail sort. The Churchill has views over
the gardens of Portman Square, the sight of
which sweeps one back to a gentler age when this open space echoed to
the sound of the clip-clopping of horses rather than the roar of
Mercedes horse power. It’s not only the hotel in general with those
stunning views: the Montagu restaurant in particular boasts windows to
this quintessentially London scene. It is named after socialite
Elizabeth Montagu and her husband Edward, grandson to the first Earl of
Sandwich, whose home occupied part of this site. Black cabs, tourists,
office workers now create a moving foreground to the lush vegetation.The Montagu seats up to 130 guests in contemporary but stylish comfort. Its dark wood, crisp linen, muted taupe walls are bathed in light from huge chandeliers and the aforementioned windows. It contrives to be both traditional and modern and it works. Yes, indeed there are classic elements to this restaurant but they are marvellously contrasted with a bar sporting a bank of horizontal wine bottles (practical but very chic), and the most open of open kitchens.
We have all seen them, those open kitchens. They are often no more than a slit in the restaurant wall and showing
nothing more of the chefs than their
white-clad shoulders and perhaps a daringly coloured bandana or two.
The Montagu kitchen, however, is part of the restaurant. One can watch
the theatre of food preparation by staff who, I guess, must be
well-behaved at all times. Perhaps that’s the reason why such an
arrangement would never do for some of Britain’s more “animated”
celebrity chefs.The Chef’s Table gives a few visitors the opportunity to take an even closer look at proceedings. Once again The Montagu has gone the extra mile, this time in order to give a close but civilised view of chefs in action. The concept of eating at the chef’s table has been around for a while. Other restaurants might have a cramped table for two between the dishwasher and the swinging kitchen door, with the diners’ eye-level being waist-high to the chef, allowing a view of just a profile of a stock pot and lots of blue flames. Here the guests are seated at a raised island with vistas of the whole kitchen. The Chef’s Table seats two to nine people on high stools and is available for lunch or dinner during the week. It costs £75.00 per person for five courses including matched wines, or £95.00 for eight courses including matched wines.
It was springtime in London. Cold and wet and I was looking forward to the comfort of an open fire (yes, dear reader, there is such a thing to hand) and an afternoon tea with all the elegance and charm that notion conjures. As a member of the Tea Council’s prestigious ‘Tea Guild', Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill sounded like an ideal spot for a cuppa and some sweet and savoury delights. I was not disappointed – they presented the most iconic and relaxing of afternoon teas.
Even from a distance The Montagu Afternoon Tea looks like the real thing. Its elegant three-tiered stand carried a selection of those very British finger sandwiches with no sign of a crust. The choice is different every day but be assured they will be delicious and filled with a variety of cheeses, meats, smoked salmon and probably some cucumber on a mix of white, brown and flavoured breads. These are surprisingly substantial but one can feel refined if one cuts a corner and nibbles. This isn’t a race. Eat slowly and unwind, but save some room for what’s to follow.
After the sandwiches I was drawn to the next tier up. The one piled with still-warm fruit and plain scones. Two per person was a generous helping and these were served with the usual accompaniments of lashings of strawberry jam and clotted cream. It might be predictable but it’s been that way for generations for no other reason than that it’s just right.
The top tier held my attention and the cakes. This was a tempting and attractive spread of little fancies as well as some fresh strawberries to make one feel noble. A miniature fruit tart, glossy and dark Opera cake, pink and frilly iced cupcake, Viennese shortbread and some chocolate macaroons were all irresistible. The Montagu Afternoon Tea is served with a selection of teas including Sapphire Earl Grey, Darjeeling 2nd Flush, Organic Bohea Lapsang, Organic Silver Needle and Hand-rolled Jasmine Pearls. I chose the Silver Needle for its light fresh flavour which was a foil for the cream and sugar I had already consumed in the guise of dessert. It was one of those occasions when a cup of coffee just would not do. American cousins take note. For an extra treat, one might order a glass of Pol Roger Champagne which is said to have been Winston Churchill’s favourite. This particular Afternoon Tea is therefore called the Churchill, in his honour.
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill is a setting for a memorable and fine traditional afternoon tea. The Montagu restaurant is a calm oasis with welcoming staff and a refuge from all things hectic. Ask for a table overlooking the greenery of one of London’s most stylish squares, and while away a couple of unhurried hours. It’s accessible 5-star luxury.
Afternoon Tea is served every day between 3.00pm and 6.00pm. The Montagu Afternoon Tea is available at £21.50 per person and The Churchill Afternoon Tea with a glass of Pol Roger Champagne is £27.50 per person.
For reservations please call 020 7299 2037 or email: montagu.hrlondon@hyatt.com.
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
30 Portman Square, London W1H 7BH, UK
Phone:+44 20 7486 5800
Fax:+44 20 7486 1255
Email:london.churchill@hyatt.com
Visit The Churchill here
Moët Movies at Axis, One Aldwych
One Aldwych is one of the best addresses. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of London in Covent Garden. This is an area which once boasted London’s biggest vegetable market but which is now celebrated as an iconic space filled with restaurants, boutiques and a market which these days sells crafts and objets d’art...The hotel is in a convenient location between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from 15 celebrated theatres as well as the Royal Opera House.
One Aldwych is an important Edwardian building. It is now protected by English Heritage who considers its facade worth preserving. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.
Yes indeed a fabulous place to stay when in town for business or touristing, but One Aldwych is a port of
call for
Londoners as well as out-of-towners who want to enjoy a bit of evening
pampering and a film. The film isn’t compulsory but the Axis restaurant
offers an amazing package of Moët champagne and a movie. A full
evening of entertainment.The entrance to Axis is calm and Zen, a vision of marble and a welcome haven from the frantic Saturday evening crowd flowing down from Covent Garden. The anonymous foyer at ground level gives not a hint of the contemporary style of the restaurant. It’s stunning. The space is flexible allowing for groups, couples and large parties. The urban mural of skyscrapers now peeks through metal bamboo which reaches from floor to ceiling. A rather radical addition to the original decor but it works and adds texture to the imposing wall. The thoughtful architecture offers a gallery dining room which, although a balcony, offers privacy to the diners on that level.
The movie menu has a selection of four starters, mains and desserts. The film starts at 9pm so the time constraints make this short menu a practical option. It weighs in at an attractive £38.50 per person and that includes a glass of fizz and a film with popcorn.
Movie-going in London can be expensive, with tickets reaching £12.50. Add another £2.50 for the popcorn and then hope you get a good seat. The one without the kid kicking your back all evening. Axis offers a menu of delicious dishes as well as the champagne for a very reasonable price. The cinema seats 30 or so guests who are able to sip mini bottles of champagne, or perhaps a cocktail might be in order. 93% of regular movie-goers are said to be dissatisfied with the food on offer at their chosen high-street venue. No such problem at Axis.
Rillette of Salmon, blood orange, fennel and chicory salad and a sour dough crouton was my chosen starter. Served with a basket of fresh bread and butter, it made for a comforting start to the proceedings. I munched the light and fresh salad and enjoyed the ambiance of this amazing restaurant. A space which contrives to remain intimate even when full.
The menu offered roasted haddock, salmon fishcakes and braised pork belly, but my main course was Tarte Fines of Wild Mushroom. This was a simple plateful but one of the best European dishes I have eaten in a restaurant for ages. The pastry galette was spread with a duxelle (ok, so it was a paste but I am trying to educate my dear reader) of mushrooms and was topped with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce. That’s a match made in heaven as long as the egg is poached to golden, molten perfection. This one was and it was creamy with the added richness of its buttery coating.
Desserts are too often disappointing. I am not keen on swags and swathes of cream, and a surfeit of chocolate is to be avoided when one is confronted by the prospect of a ride the length of the District Line soon after. Axis offers a selection which hit all the buttons for me and my only disappointment was that I couldn’t try all of them. My guest ordered Baked Jam Roly Poly with plum compote and crème anglaise (custard). This is an old-fashioned favourite and it’s good to see it return to even classy restaurant menus. This version was proclaimed to be particularly good.
I chose Poached Rhubarb, as eating fruit always makes me feel noble...ummmm, is it a fruit, though? The pink and glossy bars of rhubarb were garnished with a little condensed milk flan and a crunchy coconut tuille. A refreshing end to a wonderfully well-executed and presented meal which had been amply lubricated by the efforts of Messrs Moët.
The screening room is just through the aforementioned stand of bamboo. The screen is large, the seats comfy in blue leather, and each one equipped with a tray for balancing your beverage and a pot of popcorn. A good lot of legroom allowed me the best movie viewing experience ever. I enjoyed ‘Coco Before Chanel’ immensely but I’ll be keeping an eye on future programmes for other viewing evenings.
I’ll visit Axis often. The ‘meal and a movie’ package is great value and the associated menu is well chosen and memorable. I am sure to return for other films but I have had a glimpse of the regular bill of fare which is also calling to me. Axis doesn’t put a foot wrong.
Axis Restaurant
One Aldwych
1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH
Tel:020 7300 1000
Fax:020 7300 1001
Email: axis@onealdwych.com
Visit One Aldwych here
Cookbook Cafe – Sunday Brunch
It might not be any longer the Biblical day of rest but it still tends to be the day we ear-mark for special events, loved ones and unwinding. We might treat ourselves to a bit of a lay-in, enjoy a delicious meal, have a read of the Sunday papers, catch up with family and friends, perhaps a walk in the park... relax with...Errrr, so what was that about lovely food? If we are all soaking up the culture of the weekend periodicals and strolling around then who is doin’ the cookin’? I have, dear reader, the solution to the dilemma. You’ll get your walk in the park (Hyde Park) and you’ll even find some reading matter in the guise of a cookbook or two. Visit the Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental Park Lane for Sunday Brunch.
I can hear it now: a chorus of “Has our favourite reviewer won the lotto?” “Does she think we are made of money?” I have taken leave of neither my senses nor much hard-earned cash. You will be pleased to learn that the aforementioned brunch is amazing value for money (under £50 per head) at an unbeatable location.
The Cookbook Cafe is a contemporary restaurant with huge windows onto one of the best corners of one of the world’s most vibrant and exciting cities. It’s bright and welcoming although the split-level dining area helps to create a cosy ambiance with tables arranged to be convenient and appealing to both couples and groups.
Hotel brunches so often disappoint. Perspex cylinders containing long-lingering and soggy cereals flanking half-hearted congealing attempts at a full English fry-up represent the breakfast section, whilst a slowly-drying quiche and curly cold cuts might launch the lunch element. The Cookbook Cafe brunch, however, draws a line in the sand and dares pretenders to compete.
The staff were welcoming and attentive. The champagne and Bellinis were in continual supply along with Bloody Marys and fruit juices. There was plenty of advice about the dishes on offer and the food was, quite simply, marvellous. There were salads and vegetable dishes enough to warm the heart of any committed vegetarian, fish aplenty and meats to satisfy the most carnivorous of visitors. The rustic display of starters offered some simple and standard fare, and the buffet was no worse for that, but we were tempted by other less-common platters.
Seared tuna is a pricey item on regular restaurant menus but here it was laying in ranks. It was perfectly cooked and looking like a tray of semi-precious stones. The nuggets of salmon with a hoisin glaze were a vision of glistening mahogany; a sea of smoked salmon was quickly replenished when there was even the slightest risk of the tide going out.
The cheese board was small but enticing. Cashel Blue and a Cornish brie tempted me. They were presented in perfect condition. The smoked turkey actually tasted as if it had really been on nodding terms with smouldering wood, and the pumpkin was sweet and tender enough to have been invited to garnish the dessert display.
After devouring a plate (well, three) of starters, it was on to the cooked selection. Brunch to me means New York, and New York is Eggs Benedict. This was made while I waited and was everything this simple dish should be: creamy, tangy and moreish. My guest chose a traditional roast with all the trimmings. The lamb (a joint of beef was also available) was detached from the bone with tongs! He is a Yorkshire lad who proclaimed the accompanying Yorkshire puddings as being “reet champion” (translation: As good as you’ll find in Barnsley.) The chafing dishes also offered a mixed seafood casserole aromatic with dill, seasonal vegetables, boiled potatoes, exotic aubergines, and duck in cherry sauce which is a must-try.
I have mentioned desserts in passing but I wasn’t and you won’t be, passing, that is. I am not typically a lover of sweet things but the array of tarts, cakes and brulees was too tempting. My companion opted for an individual lemon meringue pie and a raspberry brulee which he described as smooth and delicately crusted. I chose the white chocolate torte which was rich and creamy and a cut above other versions of the same confection I have recently encountered. All the desserts here are made by the Cookbook Cafe chefs.
Cookbook Cafe Sunday Brunch is the best brunch I have had in many a long year. No exclamations of “How much???” when the bill arrives. You’ll know exactly how much before you lift a fork. Great value for money. This is the spot to celebrate your son’s exam results, your auntie's return from Tierra del Fuego or just Sunday.
Opening times:12.30pm till 4pm on Sundays
Restaurant review: Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental
1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane
London
W1J 7QY
tel.: 02073188563
Chill out at Winter’s Hot
Spot -
The Howard,
London, goes Chalet Chic!
The Howard has a superb location. It's just across from
Temple Underground station and has a magnificent view of the River
Thames. A favourite hotel with this reviewer who has enjoyed not only
its location but its friendly staff, quality food and attention to
detail.
Swissotel The Howard, London now tempts us with some truly Swiss charm with the addition of a traditional Swiss Chalet. It sounds improbable but there really is a bit of rustic Switzerland in the heart of London.
It’s a shame that for most of us Switzerland conjures only thoughts of pointy chocolate and big dogs with barrels of booze, but there is also, for some, that other impression of après-ski culture, log fires, broken legs and fondue.
The winter is here and this chalet beckons. Cold-weather entertaining is about comfort and convivial evenings with friends. What could be more sociable than an evening around a gently bubbling pot of delicious cheese - and I talk from delightful experience.
The Howard has a Swiss chalet complete with traditional Swiss furniture especially imported from the Alps to Central London, the décor looks authentic with genuine antiques and red gingham tablecloths. The fireplace has a flickering faux fire which invites visitors to linger with an after-dinner drink or coffee.
The Fondue will be the best you will find either in or outside Switzerland. You will be presented with a non-ending supply of bread and some cured meats which complement the dish so well. There is a green salad to help you feel virtuous and some surprisingly good Swiss red wine. We were two hungry diners and were unable to finish our fondue. The pot looked a modest size but this is rich stuff and although one of my favourite meals, I was unable to eat another bite. If there was such a thing as a doggy-bag for fondue then I would have been content to carry my supper home on the Underground.
For dessert we were offered Apple Strudel or Zuger Kirschtorte, which I can recommend. This was a cake of three layers of wafer interlaced with cream and its sweetness was a marvellous foil for the savoury cheesiness of the main meal. Trust me, you will not walk away from the table with even a chink of empty space. If you still have a mind to enjoy something special then treat yourself to a Coffee Luz. This is a liqueur coffee with a punch. Take the bus home... or stay the night at The Howard.
Other restaurants might suggest a Swiss theme but we would be comparing the sound of a cuckoo clock to the William Tell Overture. This is a smart hotel that nevertheless offers value for money. There are few places in Central London where one can eat to a standstill for £23.00 per person.
Situated in a quiet oasis close to London’s Embankment, the Swiss Chalet at Swissotel The Howard, London, will also be available for parties and corporate entertaining for 35 to 250 guests. This is a party venue with a difference. OK, so if you want black-painted walls and defrosted frozen nibbles then go to the place around the corner from the office where you have spent every Christmas for the past five years. OR, do you want some casual style and a bit of a winter adventure? The Howard offers great packages for business events and groups.
Until 31st March 2010, the chalet will be open for couples and small gatherings every Tuesday evening from 6pm to 10pm. I’d book now, as this is bound to be a hit for the holiday season.
Visit The Howard here.
Front Room at Flemings Mayfair
Opened in 1851, Flemings Hotel in Mayfair is one of London’s oldest hotels. It was converted from six Georgian townhouses but now this historic building has been restored to a tasteful and luxurious haven.Flemings is a chic discreet townhouse hotel set in the heart of one of London’s most exclusive areas, Mayfair. The hotel and apartments are tucked away in a quiet, romantic street off Piccadilly, two minutes from Green Park and a short walk from the hustle and bustle of the West End. Flemings is just a few minutes’ walk from the designer stores of Bond Street, Regent Street and Jermyn Street, and close to Buckingham Palace. London’s theatre district is within easy reach. Guests have considered Flemings to be
one of Mayfair’s
‘best kept secrets’- till
now!Following a multimillion-pound refurbishment masterminded by interior designer Grant White, the truly amazing interior of the hotel now offers a unique combination of both contemporary comfort and cosy Georgian charm. It has all the amenities you would expect from a prestigious hotel, with the addition of The Front Room for a special afternoon tea.
The Front Room at Flemings is London’s new elegant and striking destination for all those in need of a restful but stylish retreat from the rigors of shopping and for those in search of afternoon tea, cupcakes, Champagne and canapés.
The Front Room is like no other front room you would have encountered. It’s a long way from your Auntie Winnie’s parlour with magnolia walls and a set of plaster ducks. No Green Lady hanging over the gas fire. Think elegant, contemporary and intimate.
The refurbishment of the old library has been inspired. The designer set out to create “an elegant luxurious cocoon" and it has worked in fine style. The shelves of leather-bound books are still a feature but the walls are now black and silver, and mirrors magnify the impact. The furniture is opulent velvet – the sort that encourages one to linger – and arranged to suit couples as well as small groups. The view is exquisite, onto a terrace of Georgian townhouses. One is transported to scenes from Dickens or at least the Quality Street tin. Magical.
The Front Room offers its guests layer cakes
and cupcakes
from the Primrose Bakery. Jude Law has nailed his
colours to the mast and states “I defy anyone to find a better
cupcake”! These are almost (but not quite) too good to eat. They are
visions of pastel icing with delicate decorations of tiny pink sugar
rosebuds, chocolate beans and colourful sprinkles atop thick
buttercream. These cupcakes are said to be the best around and it’s
hard to argue with that. The tea here is exceptional, different from your typical limited selection available elsewhere as it is supplied by Dammann Frères. The story begins in 1692 when King Louis 14th of France ordered that only particular teas sold by a nobleman named Damame could be sold in French cafés. In 1925 Robert and Pierre Dammann created the company that was to become the celebrated Dammann Frères.
In 1932 Dammann Frères became the official supplier to Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, the French equivalent of P&O for luxury cruising. They continue to select teas from all over the world to create new and vibrant blends. They now have 3200! Try Passion de Fleurs. Have this with your cupcake but drink it sans milk.
Prices: Traditional Afternoon Tea £23
Chocolate Afternoon Tea £26
Savoury Martini Afternoon Tea £29.50 (including Gin or Vodka Martini)
Champagne & cupcakes (opening price for January only):
£13.50 for a glass of Perrier Jouët brut champagne and a large cupcake. Small cupcakes are available but I’d treat myself to the deliciously indulgent big one.
Tea/coffee & cupcakes (opening price for January only):
£8.00 (pot tea/coffee and large cupcake)
£7.00 (pot of tea/coffee and small cupcake)
£6.00 (pot of tea/coffee and slice of cake)
Dress Code: smart casual
Opening times: 8am - 8pm and open to non-hotel residents
8am - 12noon (teas/coffees and pastries),
12noon - 6pm (Champagne and cupcakes),
6pm - 8pm (Champagne and canapés)
Bookings for Front Room are essential: Tel: + 44 (0) 207 499 2964 - ask for the restaurant.
Address: Half Moon Street, London, W1J 7BH
Telephone: + 44 (0) 207 499 2964
Reservations: + 44 (0) 207 493 2088
Fax: + 44 (0) 207 491 1817
Email: reservations@flemings.co.uk
Web: www.flemings.co.uk
Theo Randall at the InterContinental
This London hotel was opened in 1975, and reopened in 2006 after a £76m refurbishment. In the restaurant,
natural materials are used to great effect. Wood veneers with metallic
finishes complement tan leather upholstery; there is an "English grass"
motif in frosted glass as well as coloured-glass vases artfully
displayed in a subtly-lit slot. All of which combine to create a
contemporary but comfy nook for diners. The overall impression is of
understated class.Although the ground floor restaurant boasts one hundred and twenty four covers (plus a twenty-seat bar area) it contrives both to cater for large parties and to provide quiet and intimate space for couples. But you probably won’t (although you might) be there for a romantic rendezvous. It’s the food that is the draw.
In his early twenties, following an apprenticeship with Max Magarian of Chez Max, Theo Randall found a position at The River Café, although in 1991 he left to spend a year working with the much celebrated Alice Walters in the USA. Theo returned to The River Café where Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers made him head chef and a partner in the business. In November 2006 Theo opened his first restaurant, Theo Randall, at The InterContinental Park Lane. September 2008 saw the restaurant receive its first gong - 'Italian Restaurant of the Year' at the London Restaurant Awards.
Theo’s menu presents the finest of real Italian food. His food is memorable without being intimidating. His dishes don’t pose but rather beckon to you. These are platefuls that encourage you to dive in and enjoy the seasonal ingredients and evident passion of the chef and his talented staff.
I could have eaten every dish from this impressive bill of fare but there is only so much one can consume at a sitting. I chose to skip, reluctantly, the antipasti (pan-fried squid with cannellini beans, chilli, anchovy, parsley and rocket is pencilled in for my next visit) and chose a pasta dish. This is probably the best you will find outside the boot of Italy. My Taglierini con Gamberetti e Carciofi (handmade pasta with brown shrimps, artichoke, chilli and butter) was a vision of harmony. The scale of the delicate pasta was perfectly matched by the small, sweet and delicious shrimps. A simple dish but correct in every regard.
My guest indulged his passion for anything cured and ordered Anguilla affumicata (smoked eel with
beetroots, dandelion and
fresh horseradish). He proclaimed the portion to be generous with lots
of petal-like slices of fish matched with tangy and vibrant
accompaniments.Secondi saw me on the horns of an epicurean dilemma. Should I order the sea bass or the rack of lamb? So, I chose Coda di Rospo al forno (wood roasted Cornish monkfish with parsley, capers, Roseval potatoes, globe artichokes and prosciutto di Parma). The fish was succulent and the prosciutto added just the right salty counterpoint. The potatoes were meltingly delicious and the courgettes were a marvellously crunchy garnish.
Piccione al forno (I guess the same forno which had also accommodated my monkfish) was a pigeon cooked to pink perfection. These are such underrated birds. I think many people have visions of those nasty specimens one finds “decorating” London monuments. The sort with club feet, a nasty cough and low IQ. The culinary version of these tatty-feathered articles is chubby and juicy without the over-gamey flavour of many sport birds. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender.
Throughout the meal we tasted some excellent wines recommended by the personable and approachable sommelier. She was more than happy to recommend wines by the glass that perfectly complemented our food choices. The wine list was extensive with bottles starting at £20 or so. Not out of the way for such a restaurant.
We couldn’t resist the Piatto di dolci which was a selection of four desserts. I’d even invite people I don’t like for a meal here, just to have an excuse to indulge in this sweet array. The Amalfi Lemon tart was fresh and zesty, Vanilla Ice cream with chilled espresso was a simple presentation in a coffee cup but it was enough to impress with its dark bitter charm. The soft chocolate cake is one to fight over and the pannacotta with prunes and brandy was creamy, rich and decadent, as any good dessert should be.
This was a delightful evening spent in cosy surroundings enjoying amazing food. I cannot fault the restaurant or its attentive staff. The prices are what you would expect of such a hotel restaurant in one of the world’s most engaging capitals but I would venture to say that it’s value for money. The evening could not have been improved upon ...unless we had been able to find space for a slice of pear and almond tart or perhaps a sliver of Ricotta cheesecake. I feel another visit might be in order.
Visit the InterContinental web site at here.
Big Ben, London Bus and Afternoon Tea at The Howard
Londoners love London. Tourists love London. It’s a city that is vibrant but with nooks of tranquillity, historic with a veneer of contemporary, a city for the young and young at heart. A magnet for families and couples. A dream destination for the discerning. And now London offers one more attraction to its raft of must-sees and must-dos: Afternoon Tea at The Howard.Visitors want an authentic London experience. A
trip on the Underground (a good way to
meet authentic Londoners). A ride in a black London cab (a good way to
learn all about the state of the world in general and Oxford Street in
particular and football results). A tour of famous sites (Big Ben is,
in fact, the name of the bell inside the tower). Afternoon Tea.Pretty much every nation has breakfast, lunch and dinner at traditional times but Britain has evolved a civilised pause from the day’s trials in the form of Afternoon Tea. This isn’t a variety of leaf akin to, say, Breakfast tea. No, dear reader, this is an event that is enjoying something of a well-deserved renaissance. This is a chance to unwind and to appreciate some pampering.
The Howard Hotel (part of the Swissôtel group) provides a classic teatime experience but with a special London twist. You’ll enjoy a selection of refreshing teas from the celebrated Twining's tea company, finger sandwiches (this refers to the shape of the sandwich rather than the filling), scones with clotted cream and jam, and a selection of cakes and macaroons presented on a three-tier cake stand.
But the Howard offers a unique chance to eat London. Chef Brian Spark has pulled out all the culinary and artistic stops to present an array of London’s most iconic landmarks in edible form. Try a nibble of the right-hand corner of Saint Paul’s. A bite or two of the Crown Jewels would be welcome around 4pm, and you could even share Tower Bridge with your companion. The Temple Underground sign, a red post box, London cab, double-deck bus and the London Eye are also immortalised in sweet confection. These little treats are a delight to behold and even more delightful to eat. The ingredients are high quality and the execution of each cake, chocolate or cookie is quite masterful. These events are called TLSee, a pun on TLC – Tender Loving Care. A change in name but not in notion, this is Tea, London, Sightseeing.
You’ll be looking for a quiet corner of charm and elegance to enjoy your refreshments. The Howard offers a lounge that boasts moulded plaster ceilings, a good amount of marble and comfy seats (you’ll want to linger). This isn’t a Victorian mausoleum but rather a contemporary take on the traditional city hotel.
Why not consider even just a day in London. Plan a walking tour of the city. Soak up the atmosphere of one of Europe’s finest destinations. Visit the famous buildings and then put your feet up in the comfort of The Howard (right next to Temple Underground station) for a memorable Afternoon Tea. Monday to Friday - 1:00pm to 5:30pm
Saturday - 2:30pm to 7:00pm
Sunday - 2:30pm to 5:30pm
For reservations call +44 20 7300 1700 or visit www.tlsee.co.uk
Restaurant review: Swissôtel The Howard
Temple Place
London
WC2R 2PR
www.swissotel.com/london
Sanctum Soho Hotel’s No.20 Restaurant for Breakfast
Sanctum Soho Hotel is in the heart of London’s West End. Two Georgian townhouses have been converted into a striking 30-bedroom boutique hotel. It’s right between Regent Street and the iconic Carnaby Street, now lined with trendy clothes shops rather than the ethnic emporia of the 60s. The dark wood doors of Sanctum welcome the visitor to a small lobby and then into a bright and unique restaurant called no.20. Well, the hotel address is 20 Warwick Street so I guess that name is no surprise. Sanctum Soho is the brainchild of Concept Venues’ Mark Fuller. That company specialises in classy establishments in London, outside the capital and beyond these shores.The restaurant interior is designed by Lesley Purcell and it’s a vision in almost 1940s style, oak floors and
red
columns
decorated
with glowing glass rods. Gold leather-buttoned
banquettes and dark maroon patent crocodile-upholstered chairs seat
the dining area guests, while plush crimson fabrics await those
prefering to linger by the bar. No. 20 has 60 covers but the design
assures
privacy. The restaurant presents just a hint of the theme of the hotel
in general: Glamour. This hotel just cries out to have guests from the
A-list and ‘names’ looking for a central retreat.We were there for breakfast and settled ourselves comfortably behind a large linen-laden table. It’s the best and most important meal of the day and it was comforting to find sensible breakfast foods. Heinz Baked Beans are not often seen on smart menus but here they were and I was pleased to see that. At least this restaurant takes note of what people really eat in the mornings. Bagel with Lox and Cream Cheese always makes a great breakfast and I am sure guests from New York will appreciate their inclusion.
A stack of Buttermilk Pancakes, Bacon and Maple Syrup was my guest’s choice. The combination of sweet and salty - fluffy pancakes and crispy bacon - contrasting tastes and textures, is always satisfying, and at
its best when made by someone other than oneself at such an early hour.I ordered the Continental Breakfast. This was not the typical French breakfast which most often consists of a croissant or, always to my horror, French bread and butter dunked into hot milky coffee. A big café crème is a welcome start to the day, but sans globules of grease from the aforementioned buttered French stick.
Thankfully the continental morning repast at No.20 nods to those European countries to the north and east of La Belle France, where a more substantial spread is the norm. I started with granola, said to be toasted at those very No.20 coordinates, and it was a substantial helping. Next was a plate of three cheeses and cured meats. When I say ‘plate’ I mean a dinner plate! Fresh fruit was also part of my selection and it was delivered on a twin of the previous platter. Apple, berries, oranges made a colourful tapestry and added a noble and healthy air to the meal. This uncharacteristic consideration for fitness did not last long, as croissants also had my name on them.
No.20 is an attractive restaurant with a menu which offers something for everyone. Plenty for those who treat their bodies as temples, lots for those with moderate appetites, and the rest of us can graze on tempting traditional fry-ups and sweet treats. The prices are reasonable for such a location and Sanctum offers a memorable experience, with the possibility of your morning toast being delivered by a waitress who might shortly be serving a rock star. It’s that kind of place. I’ll be back for dinner.
No. 20 restaurant opening hours:
Monday to Saturday 6.30am - 11.00am
Sunday 7.00am - 11.00am
Sanctum Soho Hotel, 20 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NF
Tel: +44 (0)207 292 6102
Fax: +44 (0)207 434 3074
Email: info@sanctumsoho.com
Email: no.20@sanctumsoho.com