See the Home Pages for the latest cookbook reviews. Previous reviews are here or on earlier pages - see links on the left.
There will be more new reviews every week, so visit often!
Janet Mendel is an American-born journalist and food writer who has penned several other books about the food of Spain. My Kitchen in Spain was winner of the Andre Simon Award and was
short-listed for the Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year award. I have
already reviewed Traditional Spanish Cooking, Janet’s other book.
Cooking from the Heart of Spain is the title but where exactly is the
heart of Spain? Well, it’s La Mancha and although you might not be able
to stick a pin in a map and hit right upon it, I don’t doubt that you
would have heard of its produce... and Don Quixote.
La Mancha is a region that encompasses cities such as Toledo, Cuenca,
Ciudad Real and Guadalajara. Unless you have travelled away from the
Costas you probably wouldn’t realise that the REAL Spain in all its
culinary glory lays waiting for you. Manchego cheese (wonderful served
with quince paste), saffron, and Serrano ham are the products of this
area along with wine and olive oil. In short, the foods we think of as
typically Spanish are probably from La Mancha.
Janet shares nearly 200 recipes that give a flavour of all that the
Heart of Spain has to offer, everything from tapas to desserts. Almost
every recipe has a foreword which charmingly gives the cultural context
to the dish. Cooking from the Heart of Spain is not only a cookbook but
also a guide to food and its place in Spanish society.
The recipes have the solid and rustic feel of seasonal dishes. They are
simple to prepare from ingredients that are readily available in the
high street. Spanish Potato Tortilla has long been a favourite in tapas
bars but it makes a substantial and cheap family lunch. Tortilla with
Artichokes and Ham is another version that might be more appropriate
for a smart meal with friends. A recipe that is both posh and rustic,
if that is not an oxymoron.
Spain has winter and cold weather, so it’s no surprise to find such a
fine collection of warming soups and One-Pot Meals. La Mancha is also
the heart of garlic country, and Garlic Soup is said to be a good
hangover cure, although Don Quixote’s advice to his companion Sancho
Panza is...”Don’t eat garlic or onions, so that they don’t take you for
a peasant.” Glad we are more enlightened these days because Janet also
recommends the Double Garlic Soup!
Cooking from the Heart of Spain has dishes suitable for every occasion
and with so many fish and vegetable recipes, this is a book with broad
appeal. There is so much more to Spanish food than Paella, and Janet
Mendel acts as a guide through delicious and authentic alternatives.
Cooking from the Heart of Spain
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2873-3
Complete Indian Cooking
You might not know the name Meena Pathak but I am sure you know her products. Pataks is the name of the
company she has helped to prominence, and those little jars and packets
are in every supermarket both in the UK and around the world. The
distinctive labels indicate quality foods that have a good reputation
with home cooks.
Meena trained in food technology and hotel management with the
prestigious Taj hotel group. Combine that with a passion for food and
you have a recipe (sorry for the pun) for culinary success. She has, in
fact, packaged her talents and sold them on to the general public, but
Complete Indian Cooking is about cooking from scratch with hardly a jar
to be seen.
There are over 180 recipes in this volume which is really two books in
one: Flavours of India and Indian Cooking for Family and Friends. Meena
does not assume that you are a seasoned Indian cook so she introduces
us to India’s Culinary Traditions, Favourite Ingredients, Cooking Tips
and Kitchen Equipment.
The food is mouthwatering. I have a love of Indian food and I’ll enjoy
eating my way through much of this book. The photography by John
Freeman is first class, showing both the food and Meena to best
advantage. It’s a large format book with great visual appeal and is a
marvellous showcase for Meena’s food.
The recipes are broad-based and offer plenty of choice for both
vegetarians and meat eaters. The meat of choice is, unsurprisingly,
lamb but there are fish dishes aplenty as well as sweets. The recipes
are easy to follow and are, for the most part, simple to prepare. The
key to success is the combination of spices. There are no complicated
cooking techniques and you’ll already have the kitchen equipment.
There are some stunning dishes here. Prawn Balichow is a favourite
relish but I have only ever tasted the commercial varieties. This isn’t
difficult to make and it’s lovely as part of a starter or buffet.
Devilled Prawns would be a delicious alternative.
The chapter called Rice, Bread and Accompaniments has some lovely dips.
Coriander and Mint Raita will be familiar to restaurant goers, as is
Sabzi Raita served with Biryani. Lentils with Cream and Butter is real
comfort food, rich and unctuous, so eat this with just rice or bread...
not white sliced though.
Complete Indian Cooking is a book to use. It’s attractive and sumptuous
but it would be a shame to keep it anywhere but the kitchen.
Complete Indian Cooking
Author: Meena Pathak
Published by: New Holland
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-159-3
Chinese Cookery – Ken Hom
This is the 25th anniversary edition of Ken’s original and ground-breaking book. I had that first edition, and it fell
apart through years of use. I am sure that many readers will have had
the same experience. This is a book you will use even if you are too
young to remember the BBC series that helped launch Ken Hom onto the UK
food scene. It’s already a classic and it’s not difficult to see why.
Ken was the first Chinese chef/cook/food presenter to make a real
impact in the UK. Kenneth Lo had long been respected as a promoter of
Chinese food in Britain, but Ken Hom had a TV series that coincided
with renewed interest in cooking and all things foodie. This slightly
nervous young man presented entertaining and fascinating programmes
that introduced Chinese food to a country that was ready to accept new
flavours and the excitement of frying with a wok with the gas turned
high. We started to find Chinese ingredients in high street shops and a
quick stir-fry seemed more appealing than a time-consuming roast.
Chinese Cookery is a book welcomed by those new to Chinese cooking and
those who are well practised in that cuisine. Ken offers a wealth of
information about ingredients, equipment, menu planning and technique,
and then it’s on to the food which is marvellous. There are some
additions to the first edition so now there is a selection of dishes
that encompass both traditional family cooking and also some
contemporary innovations.
I am not sure that Ken Hom has a “signature dish” but I have my
favourites. Chicken Pieces in Black Bean Sauce is a recipe that is
simple but delicious. The black beans are salty and tangy and they give
the chicken a unique flavour that I have found to be quite
addictive. Cold Spicy Noodles are comforting and rich. I use
peanut butter although Ken says that sesame paste is equally good.
These noodles are so easy to prepare and it’s truly a meal in moments.
If you don’t really like cooking you will love this one.
OK, so the TV series was well-timed but it’s the quality of Ken Hom’s
work that has allowed him to stay at the top of his profession. Chinese
Cookery has endured because the recipes still reflect modern tastes.
Timeless!
Chinese Cookery
Author: Ken Hom
Published by: BBC Books
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84-6076-053
Best British Dishes
Marguerite Patten is surely the most celebrated cook and food writer in Britain. She is probably the most respected
by her fellow professionals, who would all be familiar with her
recipes, skill and passion for food. Marguerite serves as a model for
those who truly care about British cooking. She remains an icon because
her work is solid and she has paid her dues at the altar of hard work.
This is a collection of, as the lady says, the Best British Dishes and
there are over 400 of them. I am sure the cynics will be surprised at
that number but we have outstanding food within these isles. This
amazing lady has penned over 170 books which have mostly concentrated
on traditional dishes. It’s thanks to her that there are still chefs
and cooks who are not ashamed to present a home-grown bill of fare.
Best British Dishes has classic recipes. They are not dull and
flavourless as the aficionados of all things foreign would suggest. We
have a history of using spices and strong condiments such as mustard
and Worcestershire sauce. Our vegetables can be good quality and we
have an amazing choice of cheeses which feature to good effect in this
volume.
It’s difficult to pick favourite dishes from this book. There is so
much here that transports me to my own first attempts at cooking.
Cornish Splits are sweet rolls filled with clotted cream and jam. These
make a lovely alternative to scones for a traditional afternoon tea.
Eccles Cakes are another delicious treat which dates back to the reign
of Elizabeth I and probably before. These are a cross between a pie and
a cake and I think they are quite unique, as is Bread Pudding. This is
the old-fashioned Bread Pudding (rather than the much lighter Bread and
Butter Pudding more frequently offered today) which is rib-sticking and
substantial and often baked by my grandmother who had a large brood of
ever-hungry children to feed.
Marguerite will be introducing a new generation to the delights of
home-made Cornish Pasties, real Lancashire Hotpot, Black Pudding with
Apples (that’s a “must try”), Beef Wellington (expensive but
memorable), Kedgeree for breakfast, and Fish Cakes which are elevated
to near-luxury when made with salmon. I could go on but suffice it to
say Best British Dishes is a veritable treasury of temping foods that
seem to be sadly overlooked these days.
Jamie Oliver says “What a wonderful book that celebrates the fantastic,
historical diversity of cooking in Britain.” Best British Dishes is a
book typical of the charm and quality of Marguerite Patten’s writing.
One of the best British cookbooks around. Delightful!
Best British Dishes
Author: Marguerite Patten
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-23-2
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living
This is a collection of the food writing of the late and great Michael Bateman who has been recognised as the first of the modern investigative food journalists.
Michael started writing in the 1960s when food wasn’t the trendy
subject it is today. There was little interest in the media apart from
the occasional fright from contaminated corned beef. It’s perhaps an
illustration of the lack of interest in food at that time that it was
the banal corned beef that caused the scare rather than soft French
Cheese or lobster.
Michael Bateman was Food Editor of the Independent on Sunday from its
launch in 1989 till his untimely death in 2006, although he worked for
lots of publications throughout his long and illustrious career
including the Shields Gazette, Daily Herald, Daily Mail and many
others. His books include Cooking People (no, it’s not about
cannibalism, it’s a book of interviews with prominent figures from the
world of food), and Good Enough to Eat, a study of food safety and
nutrition which was shortlisted for the prestigious Andre Simon Award.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living is a marvellous book of food writing
from this man who was so very popular and respected. He was popular
because he was good and he was good because he was writing about a
subject for which he had a passion. Michael was cooking curry before it
was Britain’s favourite food, and Paella before most people had even
heard of it.
The articles are informative, accessible and amusing. He discusses the
new (at that time) interest in vegetarianism. “Now, you wouldn’t call
Ted Ray or Leo Tolstoy cranks would you? Or Pete Murray and Mahatma
Gandhi. Or John Peel and Buddha.....?” That article is a witty
testament to the passage of time, but names that are current are also
represented. Sophie Grigson has an item all to herself and she
obviously charmed Michael, who remarks upon her punkish hair and junk
(I wouldn’t call them junk) earrings.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living will introduce a new audience to the
fine and amusing writing of the late Michael Bateman and will allow his
faithful followers another chance to dip into this amazing treasury.
Yet another quality volume from Grub Street.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904943-92-1
The Art of Simple Food
If you haven’t spent much time in the USA you might not instantly recognise the name Alice Waters. She is held in
the same regard as the late and magnificent Julia Child and is a woman
that even the iconic Martha Stewart bows to on all things culinary.
Alice is as popular as our Delia but with a restaurant base rather than
a TV series.
Alice Waters was born in 1944, in New Jersey. She graduated from the
University of California, Berkeley in 1967 with a degree in French
Cultural Studies. She trained at the Montessori School in London before
spending a year travelling in France.
Alice opened her restaurant Chez Panisse in California in 1971, serving
a fixed-price menu that changes daily. The set menu format remains key
to Alice's philosophy of serving only seasonal and fresh produce. The
upstairs café at Chez Panisse opened in 1980 with an open
kitchen, a wood-burning pizza oven, and an à la carte menu.
Café Fanny, named after Alice’s daughter, serves breakfast and
lunch, and opened 1984.
The Art of Simple Food is a book that has its entire focus on good
ingredients, prepared without fuss. Alice starts with the basics but
never confuses the reader with complicated cooking methods. It’s truly
simple food but that’s not to say it’s bland or uninteresting. The
dishes range from family fare to the more exotic Bagna Cauda.
The recipes, although good, solid and mostly familiar, have a
Californian flavour that makes The Art of Simple Food an interesting
read. It represents the style of food served in Alice’s restaurant and
reminds us of trips to the Napa Valley. Quesadillas, Frittata, Pumpkin
Pie all help to convince you that this isn’t a reprint of your
grandmother’s cookbook.
Among the cake recipes is Cranberry Upside-Down Cake which has a real
American feel and will be an ideal Christmas dessert. It’s an
alternative to the classic apple Tarte Tatin and has the advantage of
being less sweet and a bit more colourful.
Apart from the Californian slant there is plenty here to suggest that
Alice Waters paid attention to her time in France. There are several
Provencal dishes including the ubiquitous Ratatouille and Nicoise Salad.
The Art of Simple Food is an ideal cookbook for those who want a single
volume that covers every aspect of cooking. Nothing is daunting for the
novice and there are plenty of new dishes for the more experienced home
cook.
The Art of Simple Food
Author: Alice Waters
Published by: Michael Joseph, Penguin
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15438-7
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Perhaps this book should have been entitled The Road to
Chicken Tikka Masala for it charts the evolution of “Indian” food in
Britain. It’s been a long and sometimes chequered story which
mirrors the close association between the UK and India, the jewel in
Queen Victoria’s crown.
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is part of a
remarkable series from Prospect Books. The English Kitchen series looks
at the history of dishes and their place in our cuisine. Other volumes
include Trifle and Soup, but Early Vegetarian Recipes and Rhubarbarian
will follow shortly. They form a fascinating study into what we eat and
why.
The authors, Helen Saberi and David Burnett, are well placed to write a
quality food-related volume. Helen has penned Noshe Djan – Afghan Food
and Cookery, and assisted the late Alan Davidson in the compilation of
the Oxford Companion to Food. David is a publisher who has won acclaim
for his re-publication of Countryman’s Cooking by W.F. Fowler.
Our love of curry did, in fact, start before the Victorian era. The
first mention of a curry in a cookbook was in 1717, although Nicholas
Culpeper discusses in 1653 the properties of many of the spices that
later were recognised as key curry ingredients. Of coriander he writes
“... sends up unwholesome vapours to the brain, dangerous for mad
people.” I hear that curry is often on the menu at the House of
Commons; there is hope though, as the ever-popular mustard is said to
be “...excellent for one that is troubled with lethargy.”
The charm of The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is that
it’s a compilation from a variety of cookbooks. The attitudes they
present range from the naive to the enlightened, with even the
quintessentially English Mrs Beeton interesting herself in the
preparation of a Chicken Curry with Chickpeas. She even recommends the
use of ghee (Indian clarified butter) and that indicates that those
returning from the subcontinent brought with them some traditional
Indian ideas ...and perhaps some traditional Indian cooks.
Dr. Senn produced a good many cookery books before the First World War
and until the 1930s. He is “famed” for such works as Tomatoes and Their
Many Uses, and Special Dishes for Borstal Institutions. He notes that
“...Madras curry is of the best classical period”, “...The Bengal
artist is greatest in fish and vegetable curries”, and “...Bombay
boasts of its particular gifts in its bomelow fish and popedoms.” I can
find no reference to bomelow fish so I conclude that it must be extinct!
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is a fascinating and
sometimes amusing look at the food we love so much. We might not eat
“authentic” Indian food but we seem to love our version of it. This
book is a must for anyone who enjoys Britain’s favourite food.
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Authors: Helen Saberi and David Burnett
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-903018-57-6
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
The history of pepper, and there’s 3000 years of it, is as romantic and bloody as any work of fiction. Pepper has
been used in medicine, in embalming when the medicine didn’t work, as
currency, and as a status symbol. It’s one of the few spices that has
continually graced the British cruet since cruets were invented. It’s
so ubiquitous that it’s often a seasoning relegated to the ranks of
“common” and “boring”.
Christine McFadden has penned this witty and absorbing volume. She is a
celebrated food writer twice nominated for world food media awards,
former vice-chair of the Guild of Food Writers and is the author of
thirteen other books including The World of Chocolate, Cool Green
Leaves and Red Hot Peppers, and Tools for Cooks. Christine is an active
member of the Slow Food movement.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World charts the rise of pepper and
its progress from India to Europe via Arab traders. Pepper was found
inside the mummified body of the Pharaoh Ramses, and was flaunted by
Romans who used huge quantities of the expensive spice to impress their
guests.
At the time of Queen Elizabeth I the English stevedores, the equivalent
of modern dockers (if there are indeed still such men), were forbidden
to wear clothing with cuffs and had their pockets sewn up to discourage
pepper pilfering. Pepper still had a certain aristocratic value in
1973. That year saw Prince Charles Invested as the Duke of Cornwall
with his feudal rent amounting to a pound of peppercorns.
It’s not just a history book. Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
even offers advice on buying a pepper mill, a gadget that I only
encountered for the first time in 1975. There is, in fact, everything
you might ever want to know about pepper, including lists of varieties
and tasting notes. This isn’t a dry academic work although it’s full of
information. Christine has an engaging style of writing, with every
chapter littered with light humour.
There are over 100 recipes, which include everything from salad to
cakes, and there are lots of delicious surprises such as Black Pepper
Brownies, Pink Pepper Blondies and Hot and Sour Courgettes. Steak au
Poivre (Pepper Steak) is traditional and a typical French menu item but
it’s a good platform for what was, until recently, a much underrated
spice.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World is informative but it’s
equally an enjoyable read, well written and fascinating. I hope to
review more books by Christine McFadden in the near future.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
Author: Christine McFadden
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 9781904573609
The Branded Cookbook
Sounds like a recipe book from an old Arizona ranch. The Branded Cookbook is, in fact, a colourful, slightly retro,
periodically Andy Warholish cookbook which concentrates on famous and
iconic foods. It’s utterly unique, quirky, well designed and full of
delicious and surprising ideas.
The authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton have an amazing breadth of
literary and culinary experience between them. Nick is the Creative
Chef for Prêt A Manger and a well respected development chef.
Johnny is a writer and journalist who has authored on topics as diverse
as high altitude ballooning and the history of money!
The ingredients mentioned, for ingredients are just what these branded
products become, are familiar and readily available. Staples like
Kellogg’s Cornflakes, Quaker Oats, Vegemite (Vegemite??) and Heinz
Tomato Ketchup. The recipes are certainly not all of the cheap and
cheerful sort that I had expected. There are lobsters, mussels, salmon
and Stilton to complement the Lea and Perrins and the Colman’s mustard.
I am sure we have all, with a sense of misguided guilt, concocted our
own dishes using some of the aforementioned products. It’s a relief to
find a real cookbook that acknowledges their quality, and encourages us
to take that extra step and admit that the scrumptious fish supper was,
in reality, Fish Fingers Coated with Oats, and Cornflakes with
Hellmann’s Tartar Sauce!
The only product here that might cause the British home cook some
problems is Skippy Peanut Butter. It’s a brand ubiquitous in the US but
not so common in the UK. Use your favourite Peanut Butter and lie if
necessary. Peanut Butter and Caramel Ice Cream has my vote. You have
gotta love instructions that advise, “Squeeze on a good dose of caramel
sauce and ripple it through with a shimmy of the hand.”
Camp Coffee (this has nothing to do with the Gay movement) will revive
memories for anyone over the age of 50. It seemed the most common
coffee around and was the forerunner of instant powdered coffee. It’s a
combination of coffee, chicory and sugar and has long been recognised
(by my aunty Jackie) as the essential ingredient in moist layered
coffee cakes. The authors didn’t include my aunty's recipe but offer
Creamy Coffee Layer Cake, which is a very acceptable alternative.
The Branded Cookbook is an unexpectedly good and sensible recipe book.
The concept might, at first, seem strange but all the brands mentioned
have been around for decades because they are practical, flavourful and
reliable. I will feel no shame in using these recipes and I am sure
I’ll add a few ideas of my own. A brilliant gift.
The Branded Cookbook
Authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-776-2
Spice Market
I
spend much of my life reading and reviewing cookbooks and indeed
anything relating to food. I truly appreciate the hard work and passion
that results in a published volume, but Spice
Market is exceptional. It’s big, sumptuous, colourful and rich, and a
book that I find myself dipping into for no particular reason other
than to soak up its charm.
The author, Jane Lawson, has been involved with food in one way or
another since the age of eight. She worked for many years as a chef in
Sydney but moved into publishing, which has allowed her to combine her
love of cookbooks and cooking. Jane is now the commissioning food
editor at Murdoch Books. She is the author of Grub, Yoshoku, A Little
Taste of Japan, and Cocina Nueva, as well as being co-author of BBQ
Food for Friends which won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award.
The photography by Natasha Milne and Alan Benson is marvellous and
combined with the two-tone pale grey and white pages gives Spice Market
a gift-quality feel. It has over 250 recipes which cover the whole
spectrum of dishes containing spices, from Beef with Spicy Chilli Crust
to Hot Cross Buns.
Spice Market has over 430 pages so it’s safe to assume that nothing
much is missing. It’s not only a gorgeous recipe book but it’s also a
reference book that manages to resist being dry and academic. Each
spice is described, and then it’s on to the recipes. A simple and
rather obscure spice like juniper has five recipes but pepper has
fourteen examples, with every colour of peppercorn represented.
It’s not just savoury dishes that rely on spice to give flavour and
sometimes colour. Chocolate Star Anise Cake with Coffee Caramel Cream
is a stunner. Sesame Halva Ice Cream makes an apt but unusual end to a
Moroccan meal. We all know that Custard Tart lacks a very important
something if there isn’t that characteristic sprinkle of nutmeg on the
top: Spice Market has a Peach and Custard Tart that elevates the
original to a memorable dessert.
There is a whole chapter devoted to spice pastes and another devoted to
spice mixes. These are the sections that make this book so inspiring.
There are blends here that are almost impossible to buy in shops unless
you have access to a good exotic market. Berber Spice Mix is wonderful
with all kinds of lamb dishes, Dukkah is an Egyptian staple and mostly
used with oil as a dip for bread. Panch Phora is aromatic and gives an
authentic taste of Bengal to simple dishes like fried potatoes. I’d buy
this book for the Spice Mix chapter alone.
Spice Market is splendid and I’ll not only enjoy leafing through its
pages but also cooking its mouth-watering recipes and learning more
about delicious blends. It’s a treat!
Spice Market
Author: Jane Lawson
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1741960389
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating
Ester Davies had penned a Student Cookbook that will honestly help those recently-fledged young people. Why? Because they will read this book. It’s no good handing out copies of
your favourite glossy, chefy recipe book, or Xeroxed sheets of
instructions for how to make your grannie’s foie gras-stuffed quail.
Students (and this book works well for anyone of any age who is
culinarily challenged) need to start with the basics.
Ester has a chatty, conversational style of writing that encourages you
to feel that eating well isn’t, after all, going to be rocket science
(or these days, media studies with a gap year in Nepal). It’s all easy
stuff but you need to be pointed in the right direction by someone who
knows about nutrition, but who equally knows that the food must taste
good.
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating starts with store cupboard essentials
and equipment. There is everything here from saving money to avoiding
food poisoning. The temperature and weight conversion charts are handy
and Ester has thoughtfully added a glossary of cookery terms to
demystify the whole process.
The chapters shepherd you from Cooking Basics to Entertaining, with all
the nutritional information you will need to make healthy choices.
There is plenty of advice on lifestyle changes to reduce stress and
even what to do when you get a cold. The item on Improving Your Mood
will be of particular interest to those who are in shared
accommodation, and advice about eating take-aways indicates that the
author truly does live in the real world.
The recipes are brilliant. They are easy to follow, well written and
it’s just the sort of food that most of us would enjoy eating. There
are plenty of dishes for vegetarians including Vegetable
Toad-in-the-Hole, Chickpea and Spinach Curry (yes, you can use a can of
chickpeas), Roasted Vegetables and Couscous, and lots more.
It’s a Healthy Eating cookbook but it’s not over-worthy and preachy.
The ever-popular Spag Bol has its place but it’s a low fat version with
whole-wheat pasta. Bangers and Mash and Cottage Pie are also given the
low fat treatment and there is even a low fat Bacon Buttie!
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating is a thoroughly practical but
engaging book. It might well be more often used than the text books!
Think about this as a Christmas gift for anyone going back to
university or leaving home. Great value for money.
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating
Author: Ester Davies
Published by: Need-2-Know
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86144-061-7
Buonissimo!
This is the second book by Gino D’Acampo. His first,
Fantastico, won the Gourmand Cookbook Award for the Best Italian
Cookbook in the World. It’s safe to say that the lad described
as the Italian Stallion by UKTV Food’s irreplaceable Jeni Barnett has a
good idea about what makes a popular cookbook.
Buonissimo is the latest offering from this young man. He has, I must
admit, a certain sexy charm. He has that tee-shirted,
designer-stubbled, southern look which some women find so attractive...
OK, OK, so he decorates his books very well, but I’ll drag myself away
and focus on the food.
This is a stylish volume with photography by Kate Whitaker who does a
lovely job as usual. It presents recipes for just one person, a
romantic couple, everyday suppers, easy but impressive recipes, and
party food. Gino introduces some personal notes that add a little
insight into the character of this man – a family man who appreciates
the need for comforting meals for kids as well as classy dishes for
formal evenings.
The recipes reflect modern tastes as you would expect from a young
chef, but he is mindful of time constraints. There are plenty that are
Italian in concept but others that are more international, like Curried
Beans and Hot and Spicy Chick Peas. The book is no worse for those
inclusions. This is, after all, the fashion of British eating.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of recipes to illustrate the
style of Buonissimo. The dishes are diverse but delicious with an
unfussy, non-chefy look. Roasted Onions in Rosemary and Balsamic
Vinegar are a traditional antipasti or a smart side dish for roast
meats.
I enjoy both cooking and eating risotto of any kind, and Gino has a
great example here: Risotto with Parma Ham and Vin Santo. You can
substitute the Vin Santo with another medium white wine. This dish is
not difficult to make but I think it’s good enough as a meal for
friends at the weekend.
Limoncello and Lime Granita is a stunner! Any make-ahead recipe gets
lots of points from me. Gino suggests this as a palate-cleanser between
savoury courses. I’d be happy with this at the end of a rich or heavy
meal or even just as a refreshing interlude on a hot (it could happen)
summer afternoon.
Perhaps I should end by mentioning Gino’s Playboy Eggs! It’s got your
imagination working but I’ll tell you that it’s just a cheeky name for
a trendy breakfast of eggs, bacon, mushrooms and cheese. Served in a
cup as Gino recommends, this would make a very special late morning
snack. Perhaps that should have been included in the Romantico Chapter!
Buonissimo is bound to be as successful as Fantastico. Both the food and the author look great!
Buonissimo!
Author: Gino D’Acampo
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-807-3
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
You already know, dear reader, that I have a passion for Indian food so it’s no surprise that I, once again, feature a
book about the dishes of the subcontinent. This, however, is a little
different from the previously reviewed cookbooks, as its focus is on
future trends, as well as including lesser-known classic dishes.
The author, Vivek Singh, is the executive chef at the celebrated
Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He
has previously penned The Cinnamon Club Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club
Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and Contemporary is a marvellous
showcase for this man’s talent and unique perspective.
But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a curry”,
“let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for
any kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather
amused by our notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or
horrified at our ignorance). It seems that the misconception dates back
to the British officers of the East India Company. These chaps spent
their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak the language so when
asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was “curry” tonight
rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the delicious array
of other diverse dishes.
The recipes here are striking. I recognise the classics like Jungle
Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there are many more that are
new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a popular
restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as
it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a
scotch egg (boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic
sauce. Those army officers in India would recognise this one.
I love Raan (leg of lamb) and Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan
is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes the most wonderful presentation
for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a bit of work but you’ll
find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the meat which
will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous aroma
that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the
table.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are both
of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my
way through every dish. A delight.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9-781904-573883
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
This is another amazing book from John Wiley publishers. They might not
be the most celebrated of cookbook publishers but the food-related
books that they present are some of the best around, and Sauces is
included in that list.
You know that any book, cookery or otherwise, that reaches its third
edition has got to be worth looking into. James Peterson deserves
to be proud of Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making. It’s
not only popular with the cookbook-reading public but it has also won
the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award. This amazing volume is
even used in culinary colleges and schools as a teaching aid.
Don’t be put off by the size of this book. It’s true that it’s as big
as a small piece of furniture but it’s as big as that for a good
reason. There isn’t any padding in Sauces. It’s cover-to-cover solid
information that will be welcomed by anyone wanting to perfect
sauce-making. Nothing seems to be omitted or overlooked. Every
imaginable sauce is described, including Asian Sauces which have been
added since the publication of the first edition.
There is, unsurprisingly, still a French bias but the book is no worse
for that. Those sauces have a structure that enables flexibility and
adaptation, and that’s the reason the methods have become classic. The
contemporary sauces reflect modern tastes for lighter and healthier
dishes where cream is less evident.
The book has a marvellous chapter on Pasta Sauces. James takes as much
care over his catalogue of Pasta Shapes (over 30 in all) as he does
over the pasta dressing, and these are not necessarily rich,
tomato-based and complicated. It’s more about flavour of fresh
ingredients and subtle combinations. Spaghetti with Clams or Mussels
offers the choice of a cream or olive oil base, although Fettuccine and
Shrimp with Crustacean Cream Sauce sticks to the luxurious and classic
heavy (double) cream.
Desserts are not forgotten and the selection here is enough to make me
quit my diet. Butterscotch Sauce is so delightful that I doubt it will
get as far as garnishing a dessert - I’ll be eating it from the pan
with a spoon.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making is bound to become a
culinary icon. It has been so well received since its first
publication. Its admirers are not only professionals but include
ordinary folk who enjoy good food and want to present
restaurant-quality meals. Any serious cook will want to own this book.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
Author: James Peterson
Published by: John Wiley
Price: £29.99
ISBN 978-0-470-19496-6
The Chinese Kitchen
“ ... People who know Deh-ta say that he is one terrific chef, a chap who makes spectacular banquets, and one
outstanding culinary host... If you do not already know this prolific
author’s publications, you must! You need to try his recipes and learn
from him. You will not be disappointed...” (The Institute for the
Advancement of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine.)
Deh-ta Hsiung must be one of the authors most qualified to pen an
encyclopaedia of Chinese ingredients, for that is exactly what The
Chinese Kitchen represents. It’s a comprehensive and thoroughly
engaging volume that will add to your knowledge of some foods and
introduce you to others.
The formula for The Chinese Kitchen is that used by Kyle Cathie for
several of their other publications, and it’s a style that works very
well. Each ingredient is described, everything from growing to storing,
and then on to culinary uses and recipes. Always well illustrated
(around 300 photographs in this particular volume), these books
demystify ethnic cooking and encourage us to take advantage of the
amazing variety of ingredients available these days.
Apart from being a definitive guide to the Chinese store cupboard, The
Chinese Kitchen offers over 200 recipes which will tempt you away from
the local take-away and into the local Asian market. The recipes are
not difficult to prepare and they are authentic and irresistible. You
could do worse than to carry this book with you to the Chinese
supermarket. Your filled shopping basket will, no doubt, impress the
lady on the till who will rightly suppose that tonight’s dinner will be
a marvellous affair.
You’ll want to cook your carefully selected purchases, and there is a
dish here for every taste. Bean Curd is an example of a popular Chinese
ingredient and there is a lovely recipe for Sichuan Spicy Bean Curd.
Any dish cooked in the Sichuan fashion is bound to be punchy and
flavourful and this version uses chilli bean paste and Sichuan
peppercorns to supply the heat.
Ken Hom says of The Chinese Kitchen: “I trust that this major culinary
work from the masterchef himself will be a proud companion to your
Chinese cookery books as well as being a standard reference.” That’s a
fantastic accolade from one of the best about one of the best and I
couldn’t put it better myself.
The Chinese Kitchen
Author: Deh-ta Hsiung
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-702-1
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
And now, dear reader, for something completely different! This is all
about cooking method, or I could more reasonably say it’s about making
the most delicious food using a particular cooking method. The clue is
in the title: Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes. The
Pressure Cooker element is self-explanatory, but who is the
aforementioned Miss Vickie?
Miss Vickie Smith is the foremost authority on pressure cooking. She
has an amazingly popular web site (MissVickie.com) devoted to the
subject. It has been visited more than 2 million times since 2001. That
statistic alone is enough to encourage me to explore the world of
pressure cooking. There must be a reason for all this interest.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the most
comprehensive work on the subject. It’s a hefty tome containing nearly
400 recipes, a buyer’s guide (handy for those of us who are swelling
the ranks of the clueless), instructions, adapting your favourite
recipes, and safety (Aunty Jean from next door would not even visit if
my mum was using her pressure cooker).
A pressure cooker ought to be considered as the latest “green” kitchen
gadget. Think about it: it takes a fraction of the normal time to cook
dried beans or large cuts of meat, and you can have mashed potatoes in
five minutes. Less cooking time equals less fuel which translates into
smaller gas or electricity bills for the already financially stretched
household. Factor in the time saved by using this ultra-quick method
and the whole proposition is starting to look attractive.
The UK seems to be rather backward with regard to this type of cooking.
Every French household has a well-used pressure cooker and many Indian
housewives will own two. If you are a vegetarian or a budget-conscious
carnivore then you will find it an indispensible part of your kitchen
battery. Chickpeas will be soft in minutes and cheaper joints of meat
will be rendered tender and succulent in no time at all.
Miss Vickie’s recipes are mouthwatering. It’s very evident that the
author is USA-based so there are just a couple of ingredients that you
might struggle to find, such as particular chillies (although South Devon Chilli Farm has a marvellous selection of chillies that could easily be substituted). You’ll need to know that cilantro is coriander.
Salisbury Steak with Mushroom Gravy is an American classic and a great
family dish. It takes less than ten minutes in the pressure cooker plus
a little extra time for preparation and finishing. You can feed the
kids and your hard-working wife in less than half an hour. 8 Minute
Chili will be another winner and it only takes... umm.. 8 minutes!
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the “must have”
cookbook for anyone who wants to feel confident about choosing and
using a pressure cooker. It’s persuaded me to take another look. Great
value for money.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
Author: Vickie Smith
Published by: John Wiley and Sons
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7645-0726-8
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Even the title of this book fills you with a warm feeling of comfort. Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and
Chutneys is an old-fashioned and charming cookbook with text in sepia
tones and photography by Tara Fisher. Clearly-written recipes and a bit
of history with many of them is a nice touch in a National Trust book.
Sara Paston-Williams is a celebrated author and broadcaster. Her books
include Good Old-Fashioned Puddings. She has a wealth of experience of
traditional recipes which are now finding an appreciative audience
among a new generation of cooks who want to make the best of fruit and
vegetables when in season.
Apart from the aforementioned Jams and Chutneys there are plenty of
interesting and classy preserves. The Pickles chapter offers
modern-sounding recipes that include Pickled Chillies, Spiced
Blackberries, and Spiced Orange Slices. All of these are simple to make
and would be lovely Christmas gifts.
If you have a taste for the more exotic then there are Preserved Lemons
which will look stunning in large glass jars. They are expensive to buy
in the deli but you can make them yourself with a few spices and some
coarse sea salt. They are delicious and add a truly authentic touch to
many Moroccan Tagines.
Perhaps the most quintessentially English recipe has got to be that of
Trelissick Lemon Curd. Trelissick is a National Trust property near
Falmouth in Cornwall, where this curd is a filling for homemade lemon
sponge. What could be nicer for breakfast, though, than some thick-cut
toast and Lemon Curd or Blackberry Curd, or the tangy Strawberry and
Orange Curd?
Mincemeat is another uniquely British confection and it’s true that
Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without it. There is a Traditional
recipe here but also some variations that are well worth trying. Cherry
and Walnut Mincemeat encased in philo pastry would add a more
continental flavour, and Pear and Fig Mincemeat is flexible as you can
substitute dates for figs and use rum, whisky, sherry or cider instead
of brandy.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys is a book of solid,
well-written recipes that will encourage you to fill your larder with
the best that each season has to offer. The jars will look amazing and
the contents will persuade you that home-made is best.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Author: Sara Paston-Williams
Published by: Anova- National Trust
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-905400-70-6
Moveable Feasts
You know, dear reader, that I’ll write about anything to do with food
and kitchens. Well, this book, Moveable Feasts – What to Eat and How to
Cook it in the Great Outdoors, supplies lots of information on food but
not much on kitchens. It’s about campsite cooking and would be an ideal
companion for the woodsy sorts who love mountain biking, climbing,
hiking, fell running (can never understand the appeal) and those who
like living in a tent.
Moveable Feasts is a surprisingly interesting book, even for me who has
certificates for enjoying comfortable lodgings and non-inflatable beds.
The authors, Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin, have written a veritable
handbook for anyone who wants to eat well whilst surrounded by
countryside, and there is plenty here that will be useful for the less
adventurous who have a caravan in tow.
The book is divided in two, with the first part being devoted to
practical insights into choosing energy-giving foods, building a fire
pit and avoiding water-borne illness. If you stay well long enough
you’ll appreciate reading the second part, which presents nearly one
hundred recipes, designed to be made with only limited equipment. All
measurements are by volume so you don’t need to cart around a set of
kitchen scales.
The recipes are a real surprise and I couldn’t imagine how there could
be nearly one hundred dishes made over an open fire - perhaps one
hundred sausages (organic or vegetarian)? Not a bit of it! This is
great food and fun to make. How about Sponge Cake cooked in a camp oven
(information in this book), or Cheesecake? Thai Curry has got to be the
smart face of outdoor eating, and you can invite the folks from the
tent next door when you cook Garlic Mussels.
It’s not only food for those who treat their bodies like temples, it’s
equally food that kids will love to eat and will probably want to cook.
The notes on gathering wild ingredients (no, not Farmer Brown’s bull)
are fascinating and will add another dimension to your trip.
Moveable Feasts is a well-written volume with sensible advice to enable
you to eat well and safely when away from home. Even I am tempted to go
camping... in the south of Spain next summer!
Moveable Feasts
Authors: Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin
Published by: Cicerone
Price: £14.95
ISBN 978-1-85284-534-6
Tapas
Who wouldn’t love little dishes of delectable morsels? That’s the charm of tapas, lots of different tastes and
textures. Tapas, the book that is, has pictures by one of my favourite
food photographers. Any book that Gus Filgate is associated with is
bound to be stunning.
Tapas is the flagship book of the celebrated restaurant El Parador. Both authors can cook every dish on the
restaurant menu so it’s safe to say they know what they are talking
about. Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas have penned these lovely
recipes that transport me back to Spain, to tapas bars with high
counters groaning under the weight of an amazing variety of dishes.
Presenting a meal of tapas is just about the most casual form of
entertaining. It’s convivial and a real ice-breaker, with everyone
taking a little of this, a spoonful of that. It’s the culinary version
of painting by numbers with each guest eating their choices in
different combinations. It’s an ideal way of feeding lots of people
with diverse tastes.
If you or your friends are vegetarian then you might feel that you have
been short-changed with regard to dinner parties. There often seems to
be a rather naff veggie option for non-meat eaters, and there are
plenty of carnivores who don’t feel as though they have eaten unless an
animal of some description had been sacrificed. Tapas, however, offers
such a fantastic selection of dishes that you are bound to find lots to
satisfy every dietary, cultural or ethical need.
It’s no surprise to see Tortilla Espanola (potato omelette) in the
Vegetables chapter and this is lovely when made well. Serve it hot and
fresh from the pan. Patatas Bravas are another staple of tapas bars and
they are always popular and simple. Spinach and Cheese Parcels are a
favourite at El Parador but this version uses ready-rolled pastry so
it’s an easy one for the home cook.
There is so much here that is stylish and seriously easy and that’s got
to be good. Purée de Habas Verdes (puréed broad beans
with pan-fried garlic, rosemary and olive oil) has a real flavour of
southern sunshine. It has eight cloves of garlic - don’t be tempted to
cut down on that number. Even easier are the Fresh Marinated Anchovies
which only demand a little chopping of garlic and parsley. That’s two
tapas quickly sorted long before your guests arrive.
The fish dishes in Tapas are just as I remember them. There are plenty
of squid but, for the less adventurous, mussels, prawns, scallops and
even smoked haddock which could be welcomed by those who get anxious
about “foreign food”. Hake Deep-fried in a Light Beer Batter is so good
that you’ll be advised to make a double batch, and Char-grilled
Sardines will tempt almost anyone when that distinctive and
mouth-watering aroma wafts from the barbeque.
My favourite recipe in Tapas is for Chicken Croquettes. They will be
familiar to anyone who has eaten in tapas bars either in Spain or the
UK. It’s authentic and comforting and a dish that works well as part of
a regular meal with a green salad and some tomatoes. Ham can be
substituted for the chicken, or even vegetables - a flexible and
delicious dish.
Tapas is a cracker of a cookbook. I am so impressed that I’ll probably
be having tapas parties for quite a while. The recipes are suitable for
summer al fresco eating, but equally for cold nights in with some fine
sherry or a nice bottle of red. Hope we hear more from Carlos Horrillo
and Patrick Morcas in the future.
Tapas
Authors: Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-806-6
A Kitchen Year
You might not recognise the name Paula McIntyre but she is, in fact,
one of Northern Ireland’s top chefs. Paula trained at the Johnson and
Wales Culinary Arts School in the USA before opening the award-winning
Undrie restaurant in Manchester. She now gives private and corporate
cooking lessons at Ghan House, Carlingford in Northern Ireland. But
perhaps her finest hour was beating Paul Rankin on Ready, Steady Cook.
A Kitchen Year is Paula’s first book although she is an accomplished
food writer and broadcaster. It’s a light and airy volume with
marvellous photography by Hugh McElveen. The focus is on fresh and
local ingredients and the changes that each new season brings. It’s a
popular theme these days but that’s the way it should be if you have
any regard for yourself or the environment.
The book is divided, as you would expect, by month and the recipes are
well chosen. Paula has a good selection of dishes for both meat eaters
and vegetarians. There are traditional favourites but the overall
impression is of contemporary, healthy and delicious. The food isn’t
over-chefy but is smart, and practical for the home cook.
January starts with an international flavour of Chorizo and Potato
Empanadas served with Roast Garlic, Red Onion and Chilli Mojo. It might
sound complicated but the Mojo is made in advance so you can have a
stylish starter or snack in no time.
Sarbled Fadge sounds like something from Edward Lear who penned such
gems as The Dong with a Luminous Nose and The Akond of Swat. It is, in
fact, traditional potato bread which has the unique addition of a
little polenta or maize meal. It might not seem very Irish but maize
meal was sent from America at the time of the famine.
We should all eat more fish, and Moroccan-Spiced Mackerel is tempting.
The seasoning is cardamom, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds
and smoked paprika. Gone are the days of cheap fish but at least the
humble mackerel is a reasonable price and it’s one of those oily fish
that is so good for your health.
A Kitchen Year offers some truly different and delightful dishes.
Festive Spiced Ham Terrine with Pomegranate Molasses Dressing might be
a bit of a mouthful but you could use leftover ham to cut down on the
preparation - another great make-ahead starter for Christmas. And
talking of Christmas, how about White Chocolate, Orange and Cranberry
Fudge? It looks festive and tastes luxurious with a hint of Grand
Marnier. Paula says this fudge will last for up to two weeks. I don’t
think so!
A Kitchen Year is a book full of innovation and I personally love
Paula’s choice of recipes. The food reflects modern tastes and it’s
bound to become a popular seasonal cookbook. Paula McIntyre should be
proud. I look forward to more books but this one will be hard to beat.
A Kitchen Year
Author: Paula McIntyre
Published by: Gill and Macmillan
Price: £ 14.99, €18.99
ISBN 978-0-7171-4321-4
Student Cookbook
Sam Stern is a young but already experienced cookbook author. When I say “young” I mean YOUNG! He is still a
teenager but has the handsome fresh face of a ten-year-old. However,
read his book and you realise that the lad should be considered an
author first, and one with a remarkable future.
Perhaps student cookbooks could be divided into two distinct groups.
There are those that are chosen by parents (probably mums) for the
soon-to-exit youth, and those that will appeal more directly to, and be
purchased by, the students themselves. Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook
falls into the second category, although I am sure those book-buying
mums will understand the draw.
Student Cookbook is a square format, colourful volume, crammed with
marvellous pictures of food and Sam. The text is clear and the recipes
simple to follow. It’s a book aimed at the virgin cook... er, um, that
is someone who is new to cooking. None of the dishes will fill the
debutante with terror.
OK, the book is as good-looking as the author but how about the food?
There is little point in investing in a recipe book that will stay on
the shelf along with your Manga magazines. These look like just the
sorts of dishes that will tempt those hard-working students into the
kitchenette.
The food here is, for the most part, healthy without being worthy. It
doesn’t seem like the usual student food of strange combinations,
dishes of 3 ingredients one of which will be either chocolate or
Marmite. This is sensible stuff that anyone would enjoy eating -
snacks, soups, pasta, puddings, as well as veggies, meat and fish.
Each recipe is marked with a price symbol. A single £ sign
indicates “skint/saving” and £££ is for the day your
aunty sends you a bit of birthday money. Other markers let you know if
the dish is suitable for vegetarians, how many it feeds, and if it’s
fast to cook. It’s an easy way to find suitable choices at a glance.
The Noodles chapter offers Chop Suey Noodles with 4 symbols. It feeds
2, it’s good for those “skint” days, it’s fine for vegetarians and fast
to cook. I am sure the book will naturally fall open at this page after
a while.
Student cannot live by noodles alone, and puds are always cheering. How
about Apple and Banana Hot Sugared Doughnuts? Easy to make but
impressive as a dessert or late-night munchies. This recipe feeds 1 to
2 (probably 1 so make a double batch), it’s cheap, vegetarian and fast.
Sam’s cookbook will have young people cooking for themselves but also
for friends and family. There are smart dishes as well as quick and
casual meals. This is all about surviving in style on a budget. Cooking
should be fun so buy this book and eat some lovely food. Great value
for money.
Student Cookbook
Author: Sam Stern
Published by: Walker Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-4063-0818-1
The Bollywood Cookbook
This book is stuffed with the best looking people around. The author,
Bulbul Mankani, introduces us to the glamorous world of the Indian film
industry and it has a dreamlike quality. These actors and actresses are
almost too good to be true and if you believe that they eat these
wonderful dishes every day then I for one will sign up for the Gulab
Jamun Diet. But more of that later.
I confess, dear reader, that I don’t know much of Bollywood and its
films. They seem to be a confection of colour, vibrance, song and
dance, and probably preferable to the offering of blood and guts which is so often the genre of choice for western film-goers.
Bollywood films have elevated film stars to superhuman and sometimes
god-like status so it’s no surprise that there is a market for a
cookbook to allow us a little peek into the eating habits of these
famed folk. It’s not just the stars that look good; the food is
mouth-watering as well. You wouldn’t expect the beautiful people of
Mumbai to be tucking into chip butties, would you?
Although I can’t reel off the names of Indian film stars as if I was
reading the local telephone directory, I can at least recognise a few
of the most celebrated of the 19 or so featured in this volume. The
Kapoors are perhaps one of the most famous dynasties and they offer
Chicken Haleem and Yuglee Mutton. Another clan who has made film their
business is the Bachchan family, who present us with Hara Channa Masala
amongst others.
If you are a non-film-going European you might still recognise the name
Shilpa Shetty. Didn’t she do rather well on one of those “reality”
shows? Shilpa has a taste for Sukha Lamb and Spicy Beans, but for me
the best recipe has to be from Raveena Tandon. Gulab Jamun is a dessert
of melt-in-the-mouth balls of sweet syrup-soaked sponge and to know
them is to love them. Raveena is an expert at making these and can
recite the recipe from memory. That is surely the sign of a well-loved
dish.
The Bollywood Cookbook has authentic Indian food aplenty. The 75 or so
recipes are divine and not over-taxing for even a British home cook,
and this is a book of style and excitement. I already have friends who
want to borrow it and I suspect I’ll have to fight to get it back.
The Bollywood Cookbook
Author: Bulbul Mankani
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-765-6
A Food Lover’s Treasury
Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy are the compilers of this enthralling collection
of food-related literary extracts. It’s a book about the food that’s in
books. Well, if we are lucky, we eat
three times each day and food is a subject guaranteed to elicit some
kind of comment or emotion from almost everyone, so food has supplied
authors and raconteurs with witty, poignant and thought-provoking
material for generations.
I could offer many marvellous quotations from this volume... but then
there would be no point in buying the book. You will want to own A Food
Lover’s Treasury and indulge in long leisurely evenings in front of
your winter log fire (OK, sit near the radiator), reading and enjoying.
A Food Lover’s Treasury would provide ideal material for after-dinner
speeches at caterer’s conventions or food-writers’ dinner dances. “He
was a bold man that first ate an Oyster” was an observation from
Jonathan Swift in Polite Conversation. “Cookery has become an art, a
noble science; cooks are gentlemen” will be a sentiment promoted by
most of you who will appreciate this volume... the author of this quote
was Robert Burton (1621) and obviously his quill ran out of ink before
he added “... and ladies.”
Woody Allen always has a droll view of society. From Annie Hall comes:
“There’s an old joke. Uh, two elderly women are at a Catskill mountain
resort, and one of ‘em says: ‘Boy, the food at this place is really
terrible.’ The other one says, ‘Yeah, I know, and such small portions.’”
It’s not just the pithy one-liners that find a place here. There are
plenty of longer excerpts that give a taste (if you’ll pardon the pun)
of the original publication: D.H Lawrence - Sons and Lovers, Charles
Dickens - David Copperfield, and George Orwell – In Defence of English
Cookery.
A Food Lover’s Treasury is amusing and charming. You don’t need to be a
consummate foodie to appreciate this book. Anyone who loves fine words
and good writing will devour this with relish.
A Food Lover’s Treasury
Authors: Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2912-9
Indonesian Food
Indonesian
Food is a fascinating autobiographical cookbook which starts in 1939
when Sri Owen was a small girl. She has memories of food at her
sister's birthday party: boiled soya beans
in their shells, which Sri now muses are an expensive starter at smart
London restaurants. That says so much about our society!
Gus Filgate is the photographer for this remarkable volume. Any
collector of fine cookbooks will know that he is recognised as one of
the best. Indonesian Food has a chunky, square format which is
attractive enough to be a high-end travelogue. The saffron-coloured,
embossed cover encourages you to expect something special... and that’s
just what you’ll get.
Sri Owen is rightly considered the Grande Dame of Indonesian Cooking.
Her career has been broad-based to say the least. In the mid-1980s, she
even ran a delicatessen from the shop below the flat in Wimbledon,
southwest London, which she shared with her husband Roger. "Besides
preparing food for the shop, I also supplied Harrods with several
Indonesian dishes - the spicy paste sambal goreng, mini spring rolls,
and my marinade for satay and barbecues. I ran the deli for three
years. It was really hard work. I didn't even have time to read.” That
was a tragedy for a self-confessed bookaholic.
I confess that I am something of an Indonesian food debutante. It’s not
that this is a cuisine that I have avoided but more that it’s not
celebrated in the same fashion as, say, Indian, Thai or even Japanese.
Sri has chosen recipes with care and uses ingredients that you’ll find
in most well-stocked supermarkets or your local Asian food store, so
you don’t have to be an experienced cook to tackle these dishes.
There are so many “must try” recipes here and Gado-Gado is included in
that list. Sri notes “The best Gado-Gado, and I still remember it well,
used to be sold at a warung in Jogyakarta, in a small alley not far
from the main street, Malioboro. This was in 1960. For my fellow
students and me, it was the main meal of the day.” This is a delicious
preparation of vegetables and spicy peanut sauce. Healthy and full of
flavour.
But, ooohh, the chapter on ice cream! I hadn’t considered ice cream as
being popular in the east. A ridiculous oversight when I know that
Indian kulfi is a lovely end to a sub-continental meal. Sri has some
wonderful examples. Kaffir Lime Ice Cream and Coconut Ice Cream can
both be made without going to the expense of buying an ice cream maker.
Indonesian Food isn’t a book to rush. Settle into your favourite comfy
chair and read of Sri’s life, travels, tastes and experiences. Her
writing is rich, charming and evocative and this is one of the most
absorbing food-related books around.
Indonesian Food is, quite frankly, marvellous. Every recipe has impact,
every picture is vibrant. Sri Owen has a warm and accessible style that
makes this reading experience a joy.
Indonesian Food
Author: Sri Owen
Published by: Anova Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-678-7
Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have
This is a classy large-format volume by Jane Price. It’s one of the
Kitchen Classics series from Murdoch Books and if this isn’t a classic
yet it soon will be. The photography by Jared Fowler is first-rate and
helps to give the book a sumptuous feel.
We all want or need to throw a party from time to time but it’s
difficult to be inspired beyond sausage rolls, cold pizza and pasta
salad. Nothing wrong with the aforementioned but you don’t want a
reputation for tired and uninteresting food. Your guests will
appreciate a scrumptious spread that looks like you have taken a bit of
trouble... although in truth the preparation would have been easy.
The chapter headings will give you a few ideas before you even look at
the recipes. They include Cocktail Hour, Barbecue Buffet, Tapas to
Meze, and Desserts. All the recipes can be mixed and matched so you
don’t need to stick slavishly to the proposed menus. There are some
traditional dishes but also plenty that are new and different.
Let’s take a closer look at just one section. Simply Japanese has 28
delicious recipes that look authentic, exciting, light and fresh. These
dishes would be ideal summer party fare if you are looking to impress.
The preparation is simple and with very little practice you’ll have a
stunning table groaning with exotic delights.
One of the easiest recipes from the Japanese chapter is Tonkatsu. It’s
pork in breadcrumbs fried and served with a traditional sauce. The
suggested presentation is Zen and unfussy and it’s a dish that takes no
time to cook. You’ll love that when you are also trying to prepare
numerous other tempting morsels.
Desserts are rather overlooked at parties. It’s often just a rich fruit
cake in the guise of a birthday or Christmas cake, or trifle. There are
34 recipes here that will encourage you to have a go at something a bit
more adventurous. There is a good selection of sweets that are lovely
to look at but also a bit trendy. The Sorbet Balls will be a real
winner and have the advantage of being prepared well in advance. They
are, as you would expect, balls of sorbet but with a cracking coating
of dark chocolate.
Party Time is an impressive book and great value for money. It’s full
of ideas for stress-free entertaining that will allow you to enjoy the
celebrations as much as your guests. That’s got to be a good thing!
Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have
Author: Jane Price
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £ 12.99
ISBN 978-1921259111
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Before I go into a detailed review of Vegetarian Cooking – A
Commonsense Guide I should tell you that this has got to be the most
user-friendly volume that has crossed this writer’s desk (OK, so it’s a
kitchen worktop on legs!) in ages. It’s a chunky ring-bound book that
really opens and stays open. One recipe and a great photo on each page.
What more can a working hands-on cook ask for?
What this cook can ask for is a selection of vegetarian recipes that
live up to the expectations raised by the book’s general presentation.
They do, and there is also an abundance of information, not only about
vegetarian cooking but about achieving a balanced diet.
You don’t have to be a card-carrying vegetarian to make good use of
this book. This is just good food that doesn’t include meat. It isn’t a
vegan cookbook although there are plenty of recipes that would be
suitable for a vegan diet. There is so much here that is rich and
decadent that you won’t feel you are making any sacrifices by following
the vegetarian path.
This book has recipes to suit all skill levels but I couldn’t find
anything that would make even a beginner over-anxious. The choice of
ingredient combinations is what makes these dishes work, rather than
complicated cooking techniques. The recipes have been tested to
destruction by those nice people at Murdoch so you know they will work.
And so to the recipes! There are lots here that are lip-smacking
delicious. Chinese Broccoli with Ginger, Lime and Peanuts is from the
Noodles and Stir-Fries chapter and it couldn’t be easier. Phad Thai
will be familiar to many of you and there is a good recipe here, but
the star for me is Rice Noodles with Ginger and Sweet Chilli
Vegetables. It’s spicy and exotic but quick to prepare.
About now you’ll be thinking of warming winter casseroles (you have
probably been doing that since August). There is a whole section
devoted to Casseroles, Curries and Bakes. These are robust and
comforting dishes that will satisfy the heartiest of eaters. Lentil
Bhuja Casserole is a flavourful dish of lentil “meatballs” and a rich
Indian-inspired creamy sauce. It’s a one-pot meal so all you’ll need is
some Naan bread on the side.
This isn’t an over-worthy tome to encourage self-denial. This is a
recipe book for real people who like luscious puds with sugar and
CREAM! Yes, you heard right! Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
isn’t a diet book, it’s all about good food and sensible eating, so
tuck into some of these desserts... from time to time. How about
Banana Fritters with Coconut Batter? Baked Almond and Marzipan
Peaches would be a pretty and tasty end to a smart dinner for friends.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide is a gem of a book that will
be appreciated by anyone who loves cooking and good food... it just
happens to be vegetarian.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Author: Murdoch Books
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1741961232
The Golden Book of Chocolate
This has got to be the gift book of the year. It has impact in both size and quality of presentation. It’s sumptuous
with gilt-edged pages reminiscent of a family bible. Those nice people
at Apple Press informed me that this volume came with a gold belly
jacket. I was pleased... er,um, but what was that? It’s a lovely dust
jacket that nicely wraps the ample midriff of this magnificent volume.
That’s the exterior oooohs and aaahs out of the way. Unless you are
buying this book only to put something sparkly on your bookshelf,
you’ll want to know about all that’s inside. The photography by Alan
Benson is a treat. You can imagine piling on the calories by just
looking at all these sweet delights.
The introduction is fascinating and pertinent. It considers not only
the history of the Swiss Nestlé, Lindt and Mr. Tobler (yes, the
man who invented Toblerone) but also our own Green and Blacks who
earned the UK’s first Fair Trade Mark for its Maya Gold chocolate.
There are over 300 recipes here so it’s safe to say that there is
something for everyone. There are Candies and Cookies, Puddings and
Pies but also Savoury Dishes that might come as a bit of a surprise.
The recipes are easy to follow and offer lots of choice for home cooks
of every level of skill and confidence.
One of the simplest recipes is Coffee Granita with Cream and Chocolate.
It’s one of those perfect make-ahead desserts that are ideal for meals
with friends. Served in shot glasses or small tumblers, it makes a
sophisticated end to an evening. You only need to be slightly more
adventurous to manage Milk Chocolate and Vanilla Semifreddo, which is a
two-layer frozen pud in white and beige.
The Drinks chapter has a lot more than the predictable cocoa. Brown Cow
has white rum, crème de menthe and crème de cacao. Served
in an elegant stemmed glass, this would be a warming, rich cocktail for
a winter party, a liquid version of a very adult after-dinner mint.
The Golden Book of Chocolate can only be described as special. It oozes
luxury and it’s bound to make an impression with anyone lucky enough to
receive a copy. Lovely!
The Golden Book of Chocolate
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-267-6
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
This is a unique perspective from a west London lad who takes a voyage
of discovery, a voyage to discover heritage, roots, amazing differences
and surprising commonality. Sanjeev Bhaskar has straddled both British
and Indian societies with their many complexities and contradictions.
Sanjeev had a childhood to which so many of us can relate. Home was a
maisonette above a laundrette and under the Heathrow flight path. I can
still remember the distinctive aroma of the paraffin stove that was the
“heater of choice” for his family and so many others in the 1960s. Not
everything was cold, grey and gloomy – the fish and chip shop was just
next door!
The long family holidays spent in New Delhi seemed to the young Sanjeev
to be a catalogue of discomfort, with intermittent water supply and
mosquitoes that had a penchant for English take-away. Telephones were
rare and air conditioning wasn’t an option, but how times have changed
- twenty years later India is a world leader in biotechnology and
pharmaceutical research, it has the world’s largest radio telescope and
is at last taking its place in the international arena in so many other
areas. India still manages to hold to its traditions, a task that would
seem impossible to maintain under the onslaught of technology and
modernity.
Sanjeev is famed for his comedic portrayal of Indians in the UK and for
hosting Delhi Belly, a food travelogue with restaurateur Reza Mahammad.
You would expect him to write a light and witty book, and India is very
much that. It’s also filled with honest and sometimes painful
observation. There is a story of tragedy here that also speaks of
strength, forgiveness and hope for the future.
On a humorous note our hero is invited to the birthday party of His
Royal Highness Rajeshwar Saramad-i-Rajha-i-Hindustan Mahararjadhiraja
Maharajah Shri GAJ SINGHJI II Sahib Bahadur Singh. Sanjeev wonders
“Gosh, what do we sing when we get to ‘Happy Birthday dear....?’ He had
no need to worry as it was “Happy Birthday dear Bapji” and the dear man
even handed Sanjeev a slice of his cake.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent is a book
that will take you through the whole spectrum of emotion but it’s
equally a book that will be thoroughly enjoyed by those of us who love
India in all its myriad facets.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
Author: Sanjeev Bhaskar
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-0-00-724739-4
Miniature Feasts
Celebrated private chef Michael Harwood has years of experience catering to the smart party set from LA to San
Moritz. “Standing up is the new sitting down” is a phrase that sums up
the style of entertaining that is presented in this gorgeous book. The
photography by Steve McCallum shows Michael’s food in amazing close-up.
Feeding people can be a dread or a delight but if you find some great
recipes, some unique ideas and some fine ingredients then you are a
long way down the road to throwing a bash that will be memorable for
your friends and painless for you.
We are all more sophisticated these days, with higher expectations.
Most of us will be a bit disappointed if we are invited to a party
where the food consists of nothing more exciting than pizza bites,
cocktail sausages and sausage rolls, all of which you recognise from
the freezer shop – the same ones you use! Miniature Feasts is a tool
that will enable you to give your friends a tapestry of taste and
visual charm.
There is so much here that is innovative. Beer-battered Oysters with a
shot of Bloody Mary will be sure to lend your soirée a classy
edge. These little molluscs will be inviting to even your most
squeamish guests. We all love anything deep-fried and this cooking
method takes away the daunting prospect of chewing on anything slimy,
alive and probably thinking.
If old habits are hard to break and you still feel the need for a
sausage roll then Moroccan Spiced Lamb Sausage Rolls should fit the
bill. They will give you the feeling of safe familiarity but elevate
the humble original into something memorable. They are not difficult to
produce as Michael has given you permission to use ready-rolled puff
pastry. He obviously lives in the real world.
Miniature Feasts offers so many mouth-watering morsels but the
highlight for me must be Little Shepherd’s Pies Topped with Lancashire
Cheese Mash. This is such a traditional dish but presented in this way
it becomes elegant finger-food. Imagine, dear reader, your favourite
mid-week Sheperd’s Pie encased in an individual pastry case. A whole
pie (OK, a miniature version thereof) to yourself. That’s got to seem
like heaven for a good proportion of the population.
Miniature Feasts if full of ideas to inspire. There is so much that is
simple and different. Soon you’ll have a reputation as the Queen of
convivial catering or the King of crafty canapés!
Miniature Feasts
Author: Michael Harwood
Published by: The Book Guild
Price: £16.95
ISBN 1-84624-025-5
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars
This could be a timely addition to your book collection. Oil and
vinegar are two staple ingredients that are indispensible to
practically every cuisine. The importance of oil is mythical to the
extent that some religions still incorporate oil into ceremony and
celebrations. Vinegar is an almost miraculous by-product of the wine
industry, acting as a food preservative... and an amazing rust remover!
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is another in that lovely
series from Apple Press. Kathryn Hawkins has penned several
food-related books including The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and
Spices which I have already reviewed. Nick Wright is responsible for
the lovely evocative photographs. This book follows the usual The
Connoisseur’s Guide format of lots of information presented in an
interesting and accessible style.
There is an amazing variety of edible oils. You might have coconut oil
or palm oil as your oil of choice if you live in either South-east Asia
or Africa. Vegetable or corn oil is common in Europe although olive oil
is now popular. Long gone are the days of tiny bottles of olive oil
only being available from the local chemist shop. The purchaser would
be treated sympathetically as they were obviously suffering from ear
ache.
Vinegar is an ancient product that has found new favour in the
last few years. Balsamic is one of the more celebrated vinegars but
there are others that have rich and interesting characteristics,
including Alan Coxon's Historic Vinegars which I recently reviewed.
Vinegars fall into two basic groups, those bought for food preservation
and those bought for flavour. A sprinkle of Malt might be just right
for your cod and chips but a lighter wine vinegar is probably more
fitting for a dressing over your warm quail egg salad.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is a comprehensive
directory with what seems like every imaginable oil and vinegar. They
are not just listed but each entry has an extensive description and an
At-a-Glance summary. There is everything here from history to cooking
temperatures, and a section on Pairing Oils and Vinegars. You’ll make
some fascinating and delicious new salad dressings.
It’s not surprising that I enjoyed The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and
Vinegars. This makes a great gift for any food lover be they carnivore
or vegetarian. A well researched and well presented volume.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-272-0
Traditional Spanish Cooking
“One of my favourite books... it is such an inspirational book, with a good recipe on almost every page.” That’s the
view of Simon Hopkinson of The Independent and half an hour spent with
this volume and you will feel equally impressed. This is the winner of
the André Simon Award and was shortlisted for Glenfiddich Food
Book of the Year. Seems like the approval for this one is universal!
The author, Janet Mendel, is an American journalist who has lived in
Andalusia for more than thirty years so she obviously has first hand
experience of her subject. The recipes have an authentic feel to them
and seem just like the real Spanish food that some of us have had the
privilege to eat in homes and small family-run restaurants. There is
diversity here that you don’t find on the Costas where full English
breakfasts and meat pie “like mother used to make” is sometimes the
order of the day.
The charm of Traditional Spanish Cooking is that we not only have the
recipes but also their context in Spanish daily life. The complexities
of a breakfast in Spain give an idea of the rhythm of meals. The
country is an ancient culinary melting pot with regional differences
that reflect the influence of many civilisations that came, saw and
left vestiges of their own traditions.
Traditional Spanish Cooking presents us with dishes that are simple to
prepare but which take advantage of fresh and seasonal produce. This is
country cooking at its best with marvellous combinations of flavour and
texture, aroma and comfort. What could be better?
Moorish Kebabs (Pinchitos Morunos) owe their origin to the Muslims who
conquered Spain and brought with them their spices (as well as tiles,
baths and a nice line in fountains). Pork is the meat of choice for
these skewers in modern Spain but lamb or veal would have been used by
the Moors. The Spanish housewife can buy the spices already blended,
such is the popularity of these kebabs. You will probably have all you
need already on your spice rack so no need to book that ticket to
Madrid.
We are talking about Spain so you would expect a recipe for Paella. In
fact there are three distinct and authentic examples here. Valencia
Paella Rice with chicken or rabbit and snail; Paella with Seafood,
although it still contains chicken; and Noodle Paella which has white
fish and prawns, with the usual rice being replaced by spaghetti.
Traditional Spanish Cooking is a gem of a book full of delicious and sometimes surprising dishes. Great value for money.
Traditional Spanish Cooking
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by FrancesLincoln
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 0-7112-2677-6
The Complete Robuchon
The name Joël Robuchon might not mean too much to you ... unless
you are a food professional, a passionate home cook, interested in
classic French cooking, a lover of fine food or a collector of the best
cookbooks. Consider this as an introduction to one of the most
celebrated of contemporary French chefs and one who has been awarded
more Michelin Stars than any other chef. You know they don’t give those
away free with cornflakes... not even top-quality cornflakes!
Joël has a restaurant empire that reaches from Europe to America
and Asia. That’s not bad for a lad who had to find a job when he was
only 15 years old. He was born in 1945 and by 1966 he was the official
chef of La Tour de France, the most prestigious sporting event in the
country. At 28 he was the head chef at Harmony-Lafayette and cooking
3000 meals each day (OK, he did have staff). Jamin in Paris was opened
in 1981 and within 3 years he had 3 Michelin Stars under his belt.
The Complete Robuchon is a hefty tome of over 800 recipes. It looks an
overwhelming size on the bookshelf but dip into these pages and you’ll
see that it’s not going to spend much time on those bookshelves. This
is a practical cookbook with sensible and accessible recipes that will
be recognisable to family cooks all over France and beyond. Don’t be
put off by the weight of the book nor the French name but rather focus
on the quality of the dishes.
These are not cheffy recipes. It’s good old-fashioned cooking. Roast
Duck is basic, traditional and delicious, and simple Buttered Cabbage
relies on the quality of the produce rather than complicated cooking
techniques. Skate Wings with Capers takes 2 minutes to prepare and only
13 minutes to cook. That’s less time than most preprepared “instant”
meals.
My favourite chapter is that of One-dish Meals and Regional
Specialities, not because it’s French food but rather because it has
some of the finest rustic family cooking. Aligot is a winner of a dish
of mashed potatoes, cheese and cream, and hails from the Massif
Central, the central mountain range. Parisian Custard Tart is a lovely
dessert but it’s not difficult, and nods to bistros and cafes and
visits to the Louvre.
The Complete Robuchon deserves respect for its breadth of information.
It must surely be considered a classic, not because the author is
star-spangled but because the recipes stand scrutiny. It’s magnificent.
The Complete Robuchon
Author: Joël Robuchon
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-22-5
A Table in the Tarn
It’s
not just a story of a table but, in fact, a whole guest house. That
guest house being in the Tarn region of South West France where the
author, Orlando Murrin, and his partner Peter
Steggall have made their home. More accurately, Orlando and Peter have
turned an old property into a guest house, and A Table in the Tarn –
Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France charts that journey.
This is a charming volume of soft and sepia colours, and photographs by
Jonathan Buckley. It’s stylish but resists the temptation to be too
stereotypically “Country French”, it’s more about showing “Real
French”. There are plenty of pictures of neighbours and staff who have
played a big part in the success of the venture. The buildings are
honey-coloured and typical of this part of the world, and just a flick
through the pages will encourage you to follow in Orlando's
footsteps... but read the book before you sell your home and head south.
A Table in the Tarn is divided into two parts; it’s almost like two
different books. The Story of the Manoir is the first section and will
drive away any romantic notions that you might have about renovating an
old French pile. The tale of the plumber who filled the house with
water from dozens of leaks - freshly plastered walls and ceilings being
hacked away and treasured possessions being ruined - will be enough to
make you think twice.
And then there is the language problem! French TV wanted to make a
documentary about the Manoir. During a tricky piece of pastry folding,
presenter Hélène Bassas asked Orlando: “Vous êtes
là depuis combien de temps?” To which Orlando replies, “Une
heure dix à peu près dans un four chaud.” (“How long have
you lived in France?” “An hour and ten minutes in a hot oven.”)
The Recipe section of the book is divided by course and there are some
lovely dishes that make the best of local ingredients. “Le Cake” is a
popular French appetizer or even a starter. It is a savoury “cake”
which can contain bacon, cheese, olives, onions or sausage and it’s
almost always loaf-shaped. Orlando’s version has bacon, black olives,
Reblochon semi-soft cheese and herbs.
The Ultimate Strawberry Tartlets are impressive but not difficult.
Other soft fruits could be substituted making this a versatile and very
posh dessert. The pastry uses Demerara sugar which gives a nutty crunch
to the base. Mascarpone supplies the creamy filling and the final
result is a stunner.
A Table in the Tarn will be a fascinating read for anyone considering a
serious move to France but also for anyone who loves good food, either
French or British.
A Table in the Tarn – Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France
Author: Orlando Murrin
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-726394-3
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
The very name “Ballymaloe” sounds poetic and conjures visions of green
and idyllic hills. Not far from the truth according to Antony Worrall
Thompson who says, “I’m often asked which is my favourite cookery
school. Without question Ballymaloe Cookery School near Cork in
Southern Ireland would be my choice... At Ballymaloe you have
everything, an exquisite property set in acres of wonderful organic
gardens surrounded by fabulous countryside... Idyllic is a word rarely
used but in Ballymaloe’s case it is the word that sums up what this
cookery school is about.”
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a lovely reflection of Darina
Allen’s celebrated school. It’s a large-format volume with amazing
photographs by Melanie Eclare, Michelle Garrett and Timmy Allen (hmm,
another of the famous dynasty?). The overall impression is of comfort
and calm. Probably just what we need in these times of crunching credit
and creeping prices.
Darina is justifiably well regarded as not only a teacher but also an
author. I have reviewed most of her books over these last weeks and
they are all of a universally high standard but more importantly they
are all a good read. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School will be
appreciated by lovers of her friendly and warm-hearted style.
This particular book focuses on the use of fresh and seasonal produce.
We might not all have access to a good market but we can all, at least,
chose the best that the change of seasons has to offer. It makes sense
to buy vegetables when they are plentiful and at a good (one hopes)
price. Darina's book will give you an idea of what you should be
looking for as the months go by.
The recipes are divided, as you would expect, by the four seasons.
Those chapters each list Starters, Main Courses, Vegetables and
Puddings. It’s nice to see those sweet things referred to as
“puddings”. Sounds old-fashioned, cheering and comfy, although the puds
here are trendy.
Steak and Oyster Pie is a classic and it’s good to see that combination
of traditional and modern in the same collection. Thai Chicken,
Galingale and Coriander Soup is a good example of the newer face of
cooking. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School represents how both the
Irish and British eat (or would like to eat) these days.
Darina's recipe for Christmas Semi-freddo with Raisins and Marrons
Glacés is so good that it would be worth buying this book just
for that. It’s one of those desserts that is simple to prepare,
stunning to look at and delicious. A light change from the usual
Christmas Pudding and the beauty of it is that you can make this ages
in advance.
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a joy and another Allen family triumph!
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Author: Darina Allen
Published: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-709-0
The Connoisseur’s
Guide to Tea
This is another in the lovely Connoisseur’s series by
Apple Press. The
author, Jane Pettigrew, is a celebrated teaprofessional and currently
edits the Tea International section of the
Tea and Coffee Trade Journal. Jane is also a consultant to the UK Tea
Club. This extraordinary woman even manages to find time to write a few
food related books such as Traditional Teatime
Recipes, reviewed here a
few months ago.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is a colourful volume with charming
photographs by Paul Forrester and map illustrations by Richard
Chasemore. Those maps help to give the information some geographic
context. Tea is an international product which has regional
differences, and even subtle characteristics unique to particular
plantations. The tea story is an amazing jigsaw of leaf varieties,
climate and soil.
I wasn’t aware that tea is, in fact, the most popular drink in the
world. Most of us in the UK tend to drink black tea and mostly the sort
that comes in handy little bags. There is a trend towards green tea as
well as flavoured teas although some of these rely on herbs and spices
for flavour and contain no tea. It pays to look at the ingredients if
you want to take advantage of the reputed health-giving properties of
the real thing.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is divided into two parts, the first
being The Story of Tea and the second being the Global Tea Directory.
Most of us know a bit about the history of our cuppa but it’s a
fascinating tale and we should perhaps view with shame our (that is the
British) involvement. The British East India Company grew and exported
opium to China. They did this despite the fact that the importation of
opium was banned by Chinese law in 1727! The Chinese paid for the opium
with silver and that same silver was used by the British to pay for tea
from China.
The Global Tea Directory is comprehensive but much more accessible than
many wine tasting guides. It covers all the main tea producing areas.
Numerous teas are described, brewing tips are given and even
suggestions for when you might best enjoy these teas and whether you
should add milk or not... always controversial.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is an information-packed volume that
will encourage you to try something a bit different. Dust off the
teapot and buy some real tea. You’ll taste the difference.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea
Author: Jane Pettigrew
Price: £12.99
Published by: Apple Press
ISBN 978-1-84543-144-0
A History of Food
This book should be republished and retitled THE History
of Food. It’s
probably the most remarkable book on the subject I have ever had the
pleasure of reading. A History of Food is huge in size and
comprehensive in depth and breadth of subject.
The author, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, is a celebrated historian,
journalist and writer and has published seventeen books in France on
food and its history. Although a serious academic she writes with a
light and charming style.
The original edition of A History of Food is considered as a master
work. We all profess to love “the classics” but in truth we mostly read
them when forced to at school. We say we read them in adulthood when in
fact we only buy them to make our bookshelves look intellectual! I had
therefore not expected to enjoy this new edition as much as I do.
A History of Food is a “good read” with all that those words imply.
It’s absorbing, accessible and easy to dip into. There are 750-odd
pages here so you will not be rushing through this in a weekend. It
isn’t a book you will choose as your commuting reading matter nor will
you read it propped up in bed with your late-night cocoa. (The weight
alone will bring on the sensation of either indigestion or cracked
ribs.)
Maguelonne has penned a book stuffed with facts but presented with a
delightful padding of cultural observation, anecdote and folk tale.
This could so easily have been a useful but dry encyclopeadia of food
but instead it’s a colourful journey through the historic and social
evolution of ingredients and their place in our lives.
The chapter headings will spark your curiosity: Spice at any Price, The
Lure of Sugar, Tea and Philosophy. No food type is omitted, no
adventure glamorized and no injustice minimised. A History of Food
gives the facts and context for each and every narrative and will
encourage you to regard some foods with a bit more respect.
I have been immersed in A History of Food for several days. Each page
offers more fascinating stories, more tales of daring-do and more
characters who have changed the way we eat and even the way we view our
daily bread. If you love food, if you love history then this is the
book for you. It’s amazing value.
A History of Food
Author: Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat
Published by: Wiley-Blackwell
Price: £22.99
ISBN 978-1-4051-8119-8
Made in Great Britain
Aiden Byrne found his vocation at the age of 14. His
cousin Alan Feeney
was a big influence on his life and Alan had taken the
catering route. Aiden’s granddad had been a chef in the Navy so it’s
obviously in the blood.
After two years studying catering at the then Knowsley Central Tertiary
College in Roby, he got a job at London’s Royal Garden Hotel, but he
hated it with a will known to few. “Being locked in the fridges is one
of my memories. I couldn’t handle it and would cry myself to sleep.”
The negative experience at the Royal Garden Hotel sent Aiden back to
his northern roots and saw him trying his hand at Chester’s Grosvenor
Hotel where he stayed for 18 months. “I kept on going in for nothing
and after four weeks they got p***ed off and offered me a job as a
commis chef.”
After the Grosvenor Hotel he gained more experience in restaurants in
Wilmslow and Leeds, before finding work at Adlard’s in Norwich. There,
still only 21 years old, he was made head chef and by 22 he became the
youngest chef to win a Michelin star. “I’d never worn a suit in my life
and here I was being asked to a Michelin dinner at the Savoy in a bow
tie! I was in the same room as Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and
Raymond Blanc – it was totally overwhelming.”
Aiden found his niche in London at last when, in 2006, he was appointed
head chef of The Grill at the Dorchester Hotel in Park Lane. He
generously admits that he owes much of his success to his dedicated and
talented team and the amazing facilities.
Made in Great Britain is stylish and impressive. The cover has been
thoughtfully designed and has a young and masculine feel. The
photography, both black and white, and colour, by Sue Atkinson, is
superb. Lovely pictures of the food are contrasted by action shots of
Aiden and staff.
Although both the chef and the dishes are undoubtedly “Made in Great
Britain”, not all the ingredients are home grown. This book is a
reflection of modern British food rather than uniquely British produce.
Having said that, Aiden has presented a showcase for the best that
these islands have to offer. He takes pride in all that is good and so
often overlooked.
The recipes sound chefy, having titles that read like descriptions (Sea
Bream with Lemon Sauce, Crayfish and Sage Risotto), but any competent
home cook could tackle these in a domestic kitchen and be assured of
spectacular results. There are lots of dishes that are simple so start
with those and give yourself a bit of confidence. Strawberries with
Whisky Granite is a stunner and imaginative but so easy.
Made in Great Britain is the ideal recipe book for any serious home
cook. It’s well written and inspiring and will hopefully not be the
last from Aiden Byrne.
Made in Great Britain
Author: Aiden Byrne
Published by: New Holland
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-84773-160-9
Cooking for Baby
We all want flavourful and healthy food but some parents
are content to
give bland and bottled meals to the smallest members of the family.
Lisa Barnes has lots of fresh and interesting ideas for babies from 6
months to 18 months old. She is the founder of Petit Appetit, a
culinary service that teaches parents how to provide healthy food to
their children. Lisa is the author of The Petit Appetit Cookbook which
won the iParenting Media Award.
Cooking for Baby has the appeal of a child’s story book. A pastel
palette and strong images are complemented by the photography of Jeff
Tucker and Kevin Hossler. Plenty of cute babies but also pictures of
delicious food that would entice even the fussiest of eaters.
There are 80 recipes which are divided into sections appropriate for
babies of 6 months, 7 to 8 months, 9 to 11 months and 12 to 18
months. It’s true that babies develop at different rates so ask
at the clinic if you are not sure when to introduce new foods into your
child’s diet. The Key Nutrients information at the back of the book
will give you more ideas about providing a balanced diet for growing
youngsters.
Nobody will report you to the authorities if you give your baby a jar
of food from time to time. Let’s be practical! It’s easier and probably
safer to use pre-prepared commercial meals when you are travelling, but
when at home you can easily make your own. Use organic produce and the
best quality ingredients and you will be encouraging your child to have
the taste for good wholesome foods.
Lisa gives you all the advice you’ll need to prepare delicious and safe
meals for your children as they grow from small babies to toddlers. The
First Tastes chapter is, as you would expect, a collection of purees.
Sweet Potato Puree is a good example of a recipe that can be adapted
for all the family. Your baby of six months will enjoy the thinned
puree but you and the older kids can have lovely sophisticated sweet
potato mash.
There are some chunkier meals in the New Flavours chapter for the 7 to
8 month babies, so Lentils and Lamb, and Asparagus “Risotto”, add more
flavour and more texture to the diet. There are still purees to be
found here but on the whole the foods are becoming more flavourful.
Lisa offers lists of herbs and spices to add to the dishes.
Kids of any age will enjoy the recipes, especially those aimed at
toddlers. Turkey Minestrone, Minty Aubergine Dip, and Meatballs with
Polenta are easy to prepare and will be appreciated by everyone. You
can adjust the seasoning for older family members and that’s a lot less
time-consuming than cooking separate meals every evening.
Cooking for Baby is a volume that will give confidence to any young mum
who wants to become more involved in her child’s diet.
Cooking for Baby
Author: Lisa Barnes
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-288-1
Middle Eastern Cookery
Original copies of this book have changed hands for
hundreds of pounds.
It’s that combination of scarcity and popularity that encourages that
monetary phenomenon. The author, Arto der Haroutunian, died in 1987 so
his books are valued as a resource that will never be replaced. Arto
was only 47 years old when he died.
Middle Eastern Cookery is considered by many as Arto der Haroutunian’s
finest work and perhaps the seminal work on the subject. This must
surely be one of the most eagerly awaited reprints, so highly is it
regarded by culinary professionals and home cooks alike.
Arto begins with a charming preface; don’t skip this as it sets the
scene. Arto talks of his family, now living in Manchester, and of their
love of food and their generosity. He describes with warm emotions
tables groaning with his mother’s delicious food and tells of numerous
guests who shared and appreciated those tastes of “home”.
“Home”, for Arto, his family and friends was the Middle East. The Arab
States, Israel, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Turkey, the Caucasian republics
of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan, and Iran broadly represent that
area, and the recipes of that region are the focus of this volume.
This is possibly the most comprehensive Middle Eastern cookery book
available. OK, so it doesn’t have the padding of sumptuous photographs
but Arto’s writing paints the most mouth-watering images. The recipes
are, for the most part, simple, relying on the freshest and best of
ingredients to give both flavour and texture to the dishes. The recipes
are authentic, being popular family recipes from every corner of this
fascinating but too often war-torn landscape.
There are plenty of recipes here that will bring joy to the heart of
many vegetarians. Arto’s mother gave him plenty of culinary advice,
(mums are like that) and one of those pearls was “Never serve boiled
vegetables. Fry, stew, braise, pour sauce over, but never boil in
water.” I think those wise words probably hold good for all of us.
The Ganachi (Cooked Vegetables) chapter offers an interesting
selection. Kurdish Vegetable Stew is seasoned with cinnamon and has a
crunch from walnuts. Nuts are also used with Shesh Havij (Carrots with
Nuts) from Iran. It’s a dish garnished with both almonds and pistachios
and a drizzle of pomegranate juice.
Lamb is the most popular meat in the Middle East so it’s no surprise
that it features here. Lamb with Saffron and Almonds is found in
North-West India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran, from where it
originally hailed. It’s easy and exotic with warming spices. Hamuth
Helou is an Iraqi lamb stew with dates, apricots, prunes and raisins.
Rich, sweet and aromatic. I would, to be honest, be happy to eat my way
through every dish in this book... er, well, um, apart from perhaps
Hooves, Tongue and Tripe Stew but then perhaps I am a picky eater!
Middle Eastern Cookery is rightly a prized and appreciated volume. You
will be happy that you don’t have to pay hundreds of pounds to enjoy
this classic book.
Middle Eastern Cookery
Author: Arto der Haroutunian
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904010-81-4
Easy Peasy
This is the debut book by Sophie Wright. She must be tired
of
being
called “the young Sophie Wright”! She is 22 years old but has years of
experience. She studied at the celebrated Westminster Kingsway College
in London for three years before starting her professional career, so
Sophie already has five or six years in the Food Industry.
Sophie was recognised as an exceptional pupil at Westminster College,
representing her school in competitions and winning a total of 15
medals. The most prestigious award was the Gold Best in Class Award at
the Salon Culinaire at Hotelympia. In her final year Sophie was awarded
the Top Graduate Achiever Award at the Craft Guild of Chefs Graduate
Awards 2006. Sophie graduated with distinction with a Professional
Chefs Diploma and was recognised as Highest Achieving Female Student
and Highest Achieving Competition Chef. Not too shabby, huh?
Sophie gained hands-on experience when she took control of the kitchen
at Beach Blanket Babylon in London. She was 20 years old! Now it’s time
for her to focus on other aspects of her career with her own private
catering company and freelance food writing.
Easy Peasy – Laid-back Food for Lazy Days is a large format and very
pretty book with marvellous photographs by Kate Whitaker. It’s stylish
with fresh and subtle colours. The recipes are easy to follow and have
broad appeal.
The chapters include Bare Essentials, Posh Lunchbox and Show-off
Suppers. There are lovely recipes here that are presented with humour
and charm. Of Sweet Gypsy Toast, Sophie writes “My Nan used to make her
savoury version of this”. Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny Trifles are individual
trifles served in shot glasses. What a brilliant idea and why didn’t I
think of that first.
You have gotta love a dish called The Unladylike Sandwich. It’s not so
much a recipe, but more an idea for the best ever sausage sandwich.
Mucky and mouth-watering. Pink Seafood Quiche is, as Sophie says, “One
for the girls”. Any combination that includes salmon and crayfish is OK
by me and this is a particularly fine and rich preparation. It looks
divine and will be a favourite with all your vegetarian friends who are
sick of you feeding them nut loaf.
Seriously Sexy Baked Chilli Pineapple should be Sophie’s signature
dish, and it might well have been had she not been honest enough to
admit that she first discovered this in New Zealand. This is one of
those recipes that is embarrassingly simple but which will have your
guests well impressed. Don’t you just love that?
We will hear more from Sophie Wright in the future. Easy Peasy might be
her first book but it will not be her last.
Easy Peasy
Author: Sophie Wright
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-787-8
Twinkle, Twinkle
Little Stars
This is a little cracker! The author, Gervase Phinn, has
spent most of
his working life surrounded by children, having been both a teacher and
a school inspector. Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a compilation of
stories that reflect the unique picture of the world from a child’s
point of view. It’s hilarious but manages to resist being cute and
sugary.
Part of the charm of the book is that the children are from rural
communities in the Yorkshire Dales. If you are, like me, a southern
townie, you will find observations of country and animals quite
enchanting. Gervase encouraged a small boy to show off his counting
skills. “How many sheep can you see in that field?” asks our hero. “I
can see all on ‘em” the boy replies. “No I meant how many altogether.
Could you count them for me?”. “Well, there’s five Swalesdales and six
Texels, three hybrids and four hoggits. That makes eighteen in total,
dunt it.”
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars captures the Dales accent marvellously.
The chapter Simone and William Learn to Speak Proper is one of my
favourites. “Miss, I can’t find mi readin’ book. I don’t know weer I’ve
gone an’ putten it.” “I cannot find my reading book,” the teacher
repeated slowly and precisely, “because I do not know where I have put
it. There is no such word as ‘putten’.” The teacher wrote a sentence on
the blackboard: “I have putten my book on the teacher’s desk.” She
asked the class what was wrong with that sentence. “Miss, tha’s gone
and putten ‘putten’ when tha should ‘ave putten ‘put’.”
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a lovely little book and sure to be
much appreciated by teachers, parents and grandparents. You don’t have
to live north of Watford to recognise the innocent view of life and
it’s good to know that computers and the internet have not yet eroded
childhood.
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars
Author: Gervase Phinn
Published by: Penguin, Michael Joseph
Price: £10.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15417-2
Kitchen Essays
This is the quintessential English cookbook. Written in
the 1920’s
Agnes Jekyll has captured that decade, those years, those days of calm
before the storm. Dress in your best flowery, floaty frock (if you are
a girl, that is), invite some friends for a Sunday afternoon summer
picnic and take this book along. Pack an old-fashioned wicker picnic
basket with old-fashioned food (neither crisps nor cola) and transport
yourself to a gentler time. Spread the rug on the cool grass and read
aloud from Kitchen Essays to the delight of your guests.
Persephone Books have published a most charming volume. The understated
grey cover is complemented with lovely endpapers taken from a printed
silk, “Clusters of stylised fruits, flowers and shell motifs”. Designed
by George Sheringham for Seftons in 1922, the pattern is typical of
that era.
Kitchen Essays is, in fact, a compilation of recipes and articles
published by The Times of London. They are said to be the first recipes
published in that newspaper. Agnes Jekyll was considered as one of the
foremost hostesses. Mary Lutyens described her house as “the apogee of
opulent comfort and order without grandeur, smelling of pot-pourri,
furniture polish and wood smoke”. It has to be noted though that it’s
evident that there were, if not a battery of kitchen staff, as least a
brace of skilled workers at her disposal.
There are some evocative chapter headings, giving an accurate
impression of the style of the book. “In Cook’s Absence”, “A Little
Dinner Before the Play”, “A Little Supper After the Play”, “A Winter
Shooting-Party Luncheon”, “Food for Artists and Speakers”.
Kitchen Essays has a marvellous peppering of food-related observations.
“We cannot both have our cake and eat it, and though to try is as human
as to fail, we should at least ascertain what our cake is made of and
weigh carefully all its ingredients before deciding which we will do
with it.” Another droll quote, from the chapter Luncheon for a Motor
Excursion in Winter - “There stands an Inn below the hill, rightly
named ‘Pelican’ from its enormous bill.”
Agnes Jekyll penned a good many recipes, some of which are still
popular whilst others are very much of her time. Chicken Pilaf, Bread
and Butter Pudding and Risotto are all familiar to us and Baked Jam
Roly-Poly has even been demonstrated by Chef Mike Robinson on UKTV
Food. Syston Iced Pudding, Oeufs à la Crème and Sardines
à la Sackville might not be thought of as regulars, chez vous.
There are a few dishes here that will never grace my dinner table,
Camembert in Aspic being the most appalling of the bunch, but they are,
for the most part, good recipes. Kitchen Essays is a book that you will
enjoy for its social commentary and richness. It makes the most perfect
bedtime reading and is sure to make its way onto the Christmas list of
many a food lover.
Kitchen Essays
Author: Agnes Jekyll
Published by: Persephone Books
Price: £10.00
ISBN 1 903155 185
Pizza – A Global History
The Edible Series of food history books is turning into
one of my
favourite multi-volume collections. Pizza – A Global History is another
title recently published and it has the same characteristic high-end
presentation and content as the others I have encountered. These are
small books but classy so if you are into shelf-appeal you’ll enjoy
these, but you’ll miss out if you don’t read them.
But let’s talk specifics, in this case Pizza. There are almost 60
illustrations here that chart the history and also explore the future
of this dish. It’s as iconic as the ever-popular burger and is
certainly more easily adapted to local tastes and dietary requirements.
Pizza has become an international favourite.
Pizza had a rather unpromising start, being the food of poverty and
last resort for the unfortunate of Naples. The author and food critic
Alexander Dumas (yes, the same chap who wrote the Three
Musketeers and many of those other books you say you have read) gave
pizza a bad press but noted that the toppings indicated the state of
the food supply in that area of Italy. People with money would never
consider eating such lowly fare.
Young people probably suppose that pizza has always been a well-loved
international dish. In fact it wasn’t even very popular as an Italian
food till after the Second World War. It remained traditional only to
Naples until many from that region migrated north for work, taking
their taste of home with them. The onset of the tourist industry
heralded a new dawn for pizza, with American GIs now returning with
their families, seeking a slice of nostalgia of times spent in
war-ravaged southern Italy.
America’s love of pizza started in the 40s and continues to this day.
Its arrival coincided with the start of a more affluent and
leisure-focused era. It was a dish enjoyed by young and old and could
be purchased by the slice, in a restaurant or from a fast food stall.
Young men on mopeds are a common site in most large towns and empty
boxes are a new trend in street furniture.
Pizza – A Global History is fascinating and well researched. Carol
Helstosky is a food writer deserving of a space on your bookshelf and I
look forward to reading more from her.
Pizza – A Global History
Author: Carol Helstosky
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-391-8
Making Fine Chocolates
I have, over the past months, reviewed several lovely
chocolate cookery
books. This is, however, a little different. This is all about making
your own chocolates rather than using chocolate in, say, a cake or
tart. Making Fine Chocolates will take you through the process of
transforming a bar of high-quality chocolate into flavour-infused
chocolates, truffles and other gorgeous sweets.
Andrew Garrison Shotts is the former corporate pastry chef at Guittard
Chocolate and owner of Garrison Confections. He has been recognised as
a “Top Ten Artisanal Chocolatier” by the American newspaper, USA Today.
I think we can assume that this young man is an expert.
I know to my cost that chocolate is an iffy substance to work with. It
is quite forgiving as an ingredient in most desserts but hand-made
chocolates demand a bit more thought and technical know-how. This being
said, it’s not rocket science. If you can follow a recipe and have a
thermometer then you’ll have no problems.
Making Fine Chocolates has an exceptional Techniques chapter. Read this
before you even consider embarking on making chocolates. Perfecting
tempering will mark your efforts as professional. You'll want to make
chocolates that look as good as expensive shop-bought ones. They need
to be glossy, have a smooth and non-grainy texture and mouth-feel on
melting. Handmade chocolates are not just melted and shaped bars of
chocolate. You’ll find the tempering step well worth the effort.
Let’s get on to the fun part... the chocolates! Chocolate Truffles are
the easiest to make and Andrew offers us a great selection of exotic
ones. Banana Caramel, Peanut Butter Sizzle and Sesame are just a few of
them.
Moulded Chocolates are the ones that you will want to perfect. You can
buy the plastic moulds in most good cookware shops. Making Fine
Chocolates gives all the advice you will need and also lots of helpful
step-by-step pictures. The chocolates you’ll make will be inspiring and
a bit more up-market than those you find in most commercial boxes.
Andrew Garrison Shotts has penned a lovely book that will be essential
to anyone who wants to present something special at the end of a meal
or as a gift. There are very few people who would not be impressed by
unique and delicious chocolates made by your own fair hands. There are
only a few books about making chocolates and this is one of the best.
Making Fine Chocolates
Author: Andrew Garrison Shotts
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 13: 978-1-84543-194-5
Cooking on The Bone
You won’t want to miss this one! Cooking on The Bone –
Recipes, History
and Lore must be one of the very best (mostly) meat cookery books. It’s
a stunner and is, as far as I know, unique. Rob Fiocca is a genius of
the shutter and has conjured marvellous photographs that complement the
text so well.
This is, surprisingly, Jennifer McLagan’s first book. She has more than
25 years working in the food industry in both Europe and Australia as a
chef and a food writer. Cooking on The Bone was the winner of the James
Beard Award and IACP Best Cookery Book Award. Not bad for a first try!
I find this book immensely appealing. It oozes comfort and warmth and
is just the kind of volume that will encourage even less adventurous
men to invite a few friends for Sunday lunch or a winter dinner. It has
the feel of a solid family cookbook with recipes that encompass the
most traditional to the more exotic.
The chapters are, quite reasonably, divided by meat type but fish is
the surprise and welcome addition to the list. We are so often deprived
of the opportunity to eat fish or meat from the bone. The modern
attitude has been that bones should be discarded and are somehow
socially unacceptable, very much in the same way that Victorians would
cover piano legs!
The recipes are mouth-watering but this is easy cooking. There is
nothing here that could be described as challenging. The key to good
results is the quality of produce. Meat and fish are pricey these days
so you’ll want the best from them when you have paid out your
hard-earned cash. Jennifer not only offers superb recipes but also lots
of information and advice about different cuts of meat.
Whole Fried Whitebait seems, at first glance, a bit out of place but it
is indeed cooked on the bone and is one of my top ten favourite dishes.
These delicate morsels are not battered but just dusted with seasoned
flour before frying. The texture is crisp but much lighter than fish
and chip shop fillets. Jennifer suggests Deep-Fried Parsley as a
garnish for the whitebait. A nice cheffy touch.
Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb is surely the most practical dish for a weekend
with a house full of friends and family. Delicious and simple. Your
home will be filled with the enticing aroma of roasting meat, garlic
and rosemary. Just some roast vegetables and a flavourful gravy are all
you’ll need to please with ease.
Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic is a classic. It sounds like a joke
but it’s a recipe that works. The garlic becomes sweet and soft and can
be served as a spread with some crusty bread or toasted baguette. Even
friends who insist that they hate garlic love this fragrant chicken
dish.
Cooking on The Bone is a must-have for any passionate cook. It is bound
to become a classic. Amazing value.
Cooking on The Bone
Author: Jennifer McLagan
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-20-1
Pancake – A Global
History
Another soon-to-be classic from the Edible Series by
Reaktion Books.
Pancake – A Global History is just one from that long list of titles
that will shortly be available. There are two other volumes already in
book stores, Hamburger and Pizza.
The author of Pancake – A Global History is Ken Albala. You might
remember his name as the author of Beans – A History, that I recently
reviewed. He is a witty writer who has a talent for giving a thorough
overview of a subject but also adding well-researched specifics. Always
amusing and edifying.
I have a love-hate relationship with pancakes. I love eating them but
hate the sporting nature of the dish. What, dear reader, is the
sporting element of the pancake story? It’s the British institution of
the Shrove Tuesday Pancake Race. It’s an event that involves a lengthy
trot whilst carrying a frying pan garnished with a pancake, this being
periodically tossed. I have indeed participated (under coercion) in
such an event and I conclude that pancakes are better left to satisfy
hungry diners in the comfort of either home or restaurant.
The humble pancake is a truly international dish which has represented
either a hearty breakfast for working men (a pile of thick pancakes
with bacon and maple syrup) or a refined touch of luxury in the case of
caviar-topped blini. The ingredients change according to geographic
location and availability of flour but the principal cooking method
remains common. Ken has been kind enough to include a number of recipes
for some of the classic varieties of pancake like blini and Crêpe
Suzette.
Ken suggests that “Pancakes taste best consumed in periods of sloth on
protracted weekend mornings. They must be savoured without hurry or
premeditation, ideally in dressing gown and slippers, at the kitchen
table or maybe even in bed, and preferably in excess, just to the brink
of nausea.”
This is another rollicking read from Ken Albala. His style of writing
is always accessible. There is a stack of information here and it’s
evident that he enjoyed the subject. It isn’t an over-academic and
heavy book but it’s fascinating to anyone interested in the history of
the ever-popular pancake.
Pancake – A Global History
Author: Ken Albala
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-392-5
The
Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
Wine, and French wine in particular, has a high profile
but what of the
Water of Life? The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky tells
the story of the
other world famous and much celebrated drink. Whisky is revered and
collected in the same way as fine wine and is enjoyed for its depth and
character.
This amazing volume is a comprehensive directory of over 100 whiskies,
including Scotch single malts and blended whiskies. This isn’t a guide
to Scotch; it encompasses whisky from the United States, Ireland and
Japan. You’ll learn how to taste whisky and appreciate the differences
between, say, Irish and Scotch which are many and distinct, even to my
unpractised palette!
There are many who will think that the author, Helen Arthur, has the
best job in the world. Her whole career has been spent in alcohol! She
has penned, amongst many others, The Single Malt Whisky Companion, one
of the world’s bestselling books on the subject. Whisky Water of Life
won the Best Spirits Book in the World Award 2000. Both these are
published by Apple Press.
Helen was made a member of the Keepers of the Quaich in 1999. This was
in recognition of her work in promoting “the advancement, standing and
reputation of Scotch Whisky”. I know you are too shy to ask what a
Quaich might be, so I’ll put you out of your misery and tell you that
it’s a special kind of shallow two-handled drinking cup or bowl. It
derives from the Gaelic “cuach” meaning a cup. OK, so I looked it up!
There are more whiskies listed in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
than you are likely to find in your local supermarket and each of the
100 or so entries is detailed, giving history, owners, location,
contact information, colour, nose and taste, in fact there is
everything you could ever want to know about any particular whisky
apart from who designed the label! Helen even tells us if there is a
visitor’s centre. Now there’s a thought!
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky lists some unique distillations.
Klochoman on Ilay produces New Spirit which is clear. The first
bottling will take place in 2010 when the spirit will be four years
old. Helen reckons this one shows great promise.
Helen Arthur has presented a marvellously illustrated catalogue of
world whiskies that any connoisseur would love to own.
Cookbook Review:The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
Author: Helen Arthur
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-275-1
Kids Parties
This is such a lovely dolly-mixture-coloured volume that I
am
considering adopting a few kids just to have the excuse to throw a
party for them! The photography by Thayer Allyson Gowdy is charming and
remarkable when one considers the difficulty of taking a good picture
of children doing anything other than sleeping!
The Author, Lisa Atwood, has worked as a food writer and an editor and
publisher for the celebrated Williams-Sonoma cookbooks. She has also
worked as a children’s cooking instructor so has plenty of experience
at the sharp end of entertaining kids.
Kids Parties – Creative Ideas and Recipes for Making Celebrations
Special, to give the book its full title, has seven party themes
appropriate for all ages and interests. It’s not just the food that is
planned but also invitations, decorations and activities. Lots of the
recipes are child-friendly and offer a new experience for young hands.
There are some inspiring chapter headings. Pizza Party, Halloween
Party, and Easter Party are just a few of them. Cupcake Party would be
a popular theme for little girls who want a sophisticated and
thoroughly feminine celebration. There’s plenty of advice on even the
smallest of details. Party hair clips decorated with butterflies are
great gifts for the guests. Frilly straws, pastel-coloured drinks with
slices of strawberries and sugared rims will make everyone feel
grownup. Make the cupcakes beforehand and let the kids decorate them.
All you will need are three buckets of delicately coloured icing in
various shades and as many sugar or chocolate decorations as you can
find.
Lisa takes the fear out of entertaining children. She provides all the
inspiration you’ll need to give a stylish bash without breaking the
bank. You can mix and match the ideas and recipes and tailor the party
to the tastes of you own children. Each party theme has all the advice
you’ll need to help your day be less traumatic. There are Party Plans,
Recipes, things to do Ahead of Time (that’s good to see), on the Day of
the Party, During the Party and Activities.
Kids Parties will be a book that your children will enjoy looking at,
and if you involve them in choosing and preparation they will feel the
day is truly theirs. A bit of planning will give you a worry-free
celebration with lasting memories of a fun time for the whole family.
Kids Parties
Author: Lisa Atwood
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-287-4
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float
This must be one of the most amusing but practical books
around. Lara
DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges have
collected and compiled a treasure chest of good advice that they are
happy to pass on to novice cooks. Fresh Eggs Don’t Float has a number
of recipes but it’s more a book of cooking tips laced with witty
observation.
Lara and Caroline are friends who have a passion for food. Although
separated by the Atlantic, they decided to further that interest by
cooking a new recipe every day for a whole year. Now, I reckon that’s
quite an undertaking! Many of us view the prospect of preparing a new
dish for every day of a weekend with a mix of horror and
adrenalin-pumping anxiety.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float is the result of culinary collaboration and a
wealth of experience. There are charming quotes from famous chefs, food
writers and food lovers that express their passion for cooking. Louis
Armstrong loved beans and rice so much that he signed his letters with
“Red beans and ricely yours”. The celebrated American chef and food
writer, James Beard wrote “I don’t like gourmet cooking or ‘this’
cooking or ‘that’ cooking. I like good cooking”.
If you have a terror of all kitchen-related things then this is the
book for you. It pretty much starts with the assumption that you have
an empty kitchen and no idea! The authors offer lists of equipment,
utensils, gadgets that are either essential or nice-to-have. Once you
have the hardware you’ll be considering food and so Lara and Caroline
steer you through stocking the storecupboard, spice rack, freezer and
fridge.
Each chapter focuses on a particular food and discusses that item in
considerable depth. Let’s take Chicken as an example. Did you know,
dear reader, that chickens are considered to be the closest living
relatives to Tyrannosaurus Rex? The lifestyle and life expectancy of
chickens is described (battery, barn reared, free range, organic).
There are some good safety tips as well. It’s said that there are more
chickens than people on earth and that they can be vicious. I guess a
good safety tip would be “Don’t annoy the chickens”. There is lots of
sensible information on stuffing and cooking methods.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float will make you smile but it is good solid food
writing. It presents information on shopping for produce, food
preparation and cooking. Its light-hearted style makes its serious
advice more accessible to a new cook.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float
Authors: Lara DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges
Published by: Piatkus – Little, Brown Group
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7499-0968-0
European Peasant
Cookery
I have two big “thank yous” to start this review. First to
the author
Elisabeth Luard and secondly to Grub Street publishers who have
presented me with this amazing book which I have so wanted to review.
European Peasant Cookery should be recognised as an “important” work
and I am sure it will be sought out by passionate cooks.
If you are a Food TV fan you might not have heard of Elisabeth Luard.
She has been only seldom seen on the small screen but she is one of the
most respected food writers. Respected by chefs, cooks and food
journalists, and there can surely be no higher accolade than to be well
regarded by one’s peers.
Elisabeth has an almost poetic style of writing. If you enjoy Elizabeth
David you will be equally enchanted by the books of this other
Elisabeth. Every paragraph reflects culinary experience and presents
detailed information and advice. No corners are cut and nothing is
omitted. You’ll read this book rather than flick through its pages. The
anecdotes will bring vivid images of lively markets, sunshine and real
people. Not “farmers” markets but markets populated by those who
understand quality ingredients and accept nothing less. Those are often
simple ingredients which are later transformed into the most splendid
of feasts.
European Peasant Cookery has over 500 recipes from 25 countries. It’s a
weighty tome but there is no padding. This is quality food writing from
cover to cover. The recipes are divided by food type and include such
things as Reindeer and Kid (No, dear reader, it’s not a small child but
rather a young goat.)
Each recipe has a little history and indicates the country of origin.
It’s peasant cooking so these dishes are not technically difficult nor
will they require you to spend a fortune on a battery of kitchen
gadgets. For the most part it’s all quite simple. Buy the best produce
you can find and you are almost assured of a terrific meal.
Many of the dishes are what we now think of as classic although we
could equally describe them as dishes that have stood the test of time.
They are still with us because they are delicious and simple and have
been popular for generations. This is a collection of recipes that work.
France is well represented as you would expect but let’s not be food
snobs. Every one of those 25 countries has contributed something
noteworthy. Beef and Beer Carbonade is a rich stew from Belgium,
Pickled Vegetables is from Bulgaria, Bean Stew with Serrano Ham from
Spain, and Lancashire Hot Pot from England - and it’s appropriate to
mention that there are a good many entries from the UK.
I have been looking forward to reading European Peasant Cookery and it
has been as wonderful as I had hoped. It’s quite remarkable food
literature, and great value.
European Peasant Cookery
Author: Elisabeth Luard
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £15.00
ISBN 1-904943-36-5
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy
Tana Ramsay has a book with one of the prettiest covers
around, with a
moiré silk-effect dust jacket. Home Made –Good
Honest Food Made Easy gives a first impression of old-fashioned values
and warmth. A marvellously well illustrated volume with lots of
charming shots of Tana’s kids. This is, after all, a family cookbook.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy is divided into 11 chapters that
reflect Tana’s key foods. The recipes are easy and designed to allow
the cook some quality time with family and friends - lots of dishes
that can be made in advance. This is something of a lifestyle book and
presents a vision of convivial gatherings around the kitchen table...
if you are lucky enough to have a kitchen table!
Soup is the original comfort food. Quick and easy to prepare and full
of good things. It’s the sneaky way for hard-pressed mums to stuff some
camouflaged vegetables into reluctant kids but these are smart recipes
and good enough for entertaining - Sweetcorn and Coconut Soup, Sweet
Potato and Carrot Soup with a Chilli Oil Sprinkling.
Pies of any sort make impressive meals. Tana has individual Chicken and
Mushroom Pies. These would be ideal for children who when given shares
of a big pie complain that Wayne got a bigger slice and
Tinkerbelle-Twinkle got an extra mushroom. Ahh, the joy of family life!
Tana lives in the real world and uses ready-rolled pastry.
Cinnamon Beef Stew is the dish you should make if you want to sell your
house. I know the agents say you should have the enticing aroma of
fresh brewed coffee but trust me, the hint of cinnamon in this stew
will get any viewer reaching for the cheque book... well, at least they
will say you have a lovely home!
Smoked Fish Pâté has a wonderful texture. Tana presents
hers in a dish although it’s a handy starter served in small individual
ramekins. Kippers are a healthy oily fish so you can feel good
about offering this pâté to your family and especially if
you can persuade them to eat brown wholemeal toast on the side. It’s
best to use the fishmonger’s kippers but not many of us have access to
a wet-fish shop. Boil in the bag kippers will work just as well.
Tana Ramsay has the taste for the good things in life and so has
included a chapter devoted to Chocolate. Nothing wrong with that! White
Chocolate Cake with Dark Chocolate Topping is a no-bake cake with a
biscuit base and a filling of cream and melted white chocolate. It has
a gorgeous drizzle of dark chocolate sauce to finish. You’ll find
yourself making this one often.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy has recipes that are a bit
different but still sensible. Tana Ramsay is a mum with little time but
plenty of imagination and talent.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy
Author: Tana Ramsay
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-727608-0
The Big Book of
Thai Curries
Vatcharin Bhumichitr has penned some fabulous books and I
must say that
The Big Book of Thai Curries is equal in every way to those others. He
is the golden boy (well, OK, man) of Thai cooking.
Vatch has stuck to the winning formula of easy dishes with flavour and
style. He has wisely marshalled the talents of photographers Martin
Brigdale and Somchai Phongphaisarnkit once again. It’s a partnership
that works well and produces the most sumptuous and colourful of books.
There is the tried and tested mix of recipes and insight into Thailand
and its people.
The Big Book of Thai Curries not only offers us recipes but gives us a
wealth of information about Thai cooking and the place of curry in that
cuisine. This is authentic Thai food and Vatch steers us through
everything from regional culinary differences to making curry pastes.
It’s fascinating and far easier than one would have imagined.
So how does a Thai curry differ from the ever-popular Indian varieties?
Thai curry nearly always uses fresh herbs and spices rather than the
dried preparations favoured in kitchens of the subcontinent. Indian
curries are most often cooked in a base of ghee (clarified butter)
rather than coconut milk. Thai curries often combine vegetables with
meat or fish while Indian curries tend to be either of vegetables or of
meats or fish.
The recipes are grouped by main ingredient: poultry, meat, fish, and
vegetables and fruit. There is also a section of Snacks and One-Dish
Meals which has a selection of dishes that most travellers will find
familiar. Pork Satay with Peanut Curry Sauce (Moo Satay) is popular
street food but these succulent little skewers make a tasty starter.
Seafood Toast (Kanom Pang Talay) is an elegant morsel of bread with a
delicate taste and crunchy texture.
The recipe chapters have some lovely surprises, the main one being the
ease of preparation of all these dishes. Spicy Stuffed Roast Chicken is
one of my favourite recipes. The whole chicken makes for a different
presentation from the more usual array of small dishes of curries, rice
or noodles. The stuffing in question is of onions, pork, peanuts and
herbs, flavourful and lighter than the bread-based stuffing more common
in the UK. The curry paste in this case is used as a rub before
roasting, and coconut milk is used to baste.
Mackerel in Red Curry is another noteworthy dish. No fish is exactly
cheap these days but we know we should eat more of it. Mackerel is a
reasonable price and a healthy oily fish. The whole dish takes less
than ten minutes to prepare so it’s got to be a great mid-week meal.
The Big Book of Thai Curries is just as stunning as I had expected, the
recipes just as delicious and they are accessible to even novice cooks,
who will be producing exotic and attractive meals in no time at all.
Vatcharin Bhumichitr has done it again!
The Big Book of Thai Curries
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-808-0
The Connoisseur’s
Guide to Herbs and Spices
Kathryn Hawkins is a well-respected food writer and author
of several
books, a home economist and former editor of Woman’s Own magazine. Her
knowledge of her subject is evident in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs
and Spices.
This is a charming encyclopaedia with fine photographs and delicious
recipes. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a cross between
a botanist’s handbook and a cookbook. The detail here makes it an ideal
companion when you next take an exotic city break to, say, Istanbul.
You might at least then have some idea of what’s for sale in the spice
aisle of the Grand Bazaar! There is plenty of advice on growing your
own herbs, either in containers or in the garden.
We have been using herbs and spices since ancient times. The first book
referring to the use of culinary herbs was penned by the Roman Apicius.
Spices became more widespread after the fall of the Roman Empire when
Arabian traders took advantage of the Mediterranean market.
From the eleventh century, the Crusaders introduced plants from the
Holy Lands into Europe. The wealthy in medieval times had access to
quite a list of exotic spices to enliven what was otherwise a bland
diet.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is divided into the two
obvious parts, herbs and spices, each of these with a history, advice
on use and common names. Kathryn maintains a light and readable style
while explaining the properties of the herbs and spices as well as
their culinary uses.
There are a good number of recipes which have been chosen to best
present a particular herb or spice. Black Olive Tapenade uses thyme to
good effect. Fattoush is a light Lebanese salad with plenty of fresh
parsley. Smoked Salmon Risotto uses dill which is a classic partner of
salmon of any kind.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a well-written,
well-illustrated volume which would be welcomed by both gardeners and
cooks.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-226-3
Desserts
It’s got to be one of my favourite books of the moment.
Desserts is
quality in both content and presentation. The large format allows for
the
most gorgeous photography by Brent Parker Jones who has used his skills
to great effect. The authors, Rachel Lane and Ting Morris, are both
successful food writers and they have done a great job.
Desserts has a marvellous selection of recipes. Rachel and Ting have
chosen well with a balance of both classic and contemporary. The text
pages are open and clear with an almost Art Deco feel. Very attractive
without being over-designed.
There are 250 international and thoroughly delicious recipes here.
These are so diverse that this book is bound to have broad appeal.
People with special health needs are not forgotten. There are quite a
few recipes that are marked as being suitable for those with specific
food allergies. This is a great idea and one that should be adopted by
more food writers.
The desserts are divided into 17 different groups as well as a section
for basic recipes. There is everything here from Fruit Desserts to
Fritters. There are Warm Puddings and Soufflés as well as Frozen
Desserts and Ice Creams. Lots of simple dishes are included but the
more experienced cook will find plenty of inspiration. There isn’t
anything here that could be described as challenging and there are a
host of step-by-step illustrations to help with unfamiliar techniques.
Cupcakes are the trendy dessert just now and there are 18 scrumptious
examples. None of them is taxing but all of them look elegant and
stylish. Banoffee Cupcakes have my vote... or perhaps Orange Sour Cream
Cupcakes... but I’ll go for the Low-Fat Chocolate Cupcakes. I need to
choose something virtuous as I’ll be trying all the other 249 desserts
before too long!
It’s nice to see a section on Candy. Sweets can be just as acceptable
as more traditional desserts at the end of a meal. Coconut Ice is a
perennial favourite and ideal as the finale to an exotic Indian or
Middle Eastern dinner. Peanut Brittle is easier than you would imagine
and the only disadvantage is that you will never seem to manage to make
enough. Trust me, this is moreish!
Desserts is impressive with enough new and unique recipes to fire the
interest of even the most enthusiastic of home cooks. My collection of
cookbooks is considerable but I am happy to add this one to my shelves.
This is great value and it stands a good chance of being this winter’s
best-seller.
Desserts
Authors: Rachel Lane and Ting Morris
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-268-3
Cupboard Love
Laura Lockington has penned an autobiography that is both
hilarious and
poignant with the common denominator being food. This is brilliant and
my only complaint is that it’s too short. I was disappointed when I
reached that last page. The same sentiment one has when one reaches the
end of a well-needed holiday.
Cupboard Love is populated by eccentric but lovable characters who
offer Laura an enormous range of experiences, both emotional and
culinary. Food, like the smell of perfume or aftershave, has the power
to evoke vivid memories, and Laura’s story is a tapestry woven of meals
and misadventure. Even those less happy encounters have added colour to
her journey.
Not many books bring tears of mirth but this is one. Don’t read this in
a public space for fear of making a spectacle of yourself. The events
themselves are amusing but Laura’s choice of words is nothing less than
inspired. The chapter titled Dinner Parties from Hell will have your
sides aching but there are so many other truly funny anecdotes. Plenty
of nostalgia, not of the “those were the days” variety, but
recollections of Vesta instant meals and PVC raincoats that are bound
to raise a smile with a sizable section of the population.
Perhaps I should warn you that you will read this book twice. I started
reading the narrative and couldn’t stop. It’s compelling and you’ll
need to know what happens next. I reached the last page and had to
return to read the recipes, which all relate in some way to Laura. Each
chapter (apart from that dealing with school dinners!) has a recipe.
So how about the food? The recipe for Strawy’s Christmas Cake
sounds very tempting. It’s not the rich, heavy fruit-laden
traditional but a cake moist with Clementines and lemons which would be
ideal for anyone with wheat intolerance as it uses ground almonds
instead of flour.
This is the first of Laura Lockington’s books that I have read but it
won’t be the last. She has a unique style that I can only compare with
such notable wits as Peter Ustinov and David Niven. There are very few
truly amusing books around but this deserves to be at the head of the
list. A real chuckle but also a warm and human story.
Cupboard Love
Author: Laura Lockington
Published by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-280-9
Easy Entertaining
The words “easy” and “entertaining” are not often found in
close
proximity to each other but here they are in cosy
partnership as the title for this wonderful book from Ireland’s Queen
of Cuisine Darina Allen. This lady never disappoints, and the
photography by Peter Cassidy is crisp and stunning.
Easy Entertaining is not only a cookbook, it also has styling and
presentation suggestions. It’s a one-stop entertaining manual that will
give the novice party-giver some confidence and the seasoned
bash-thrower a different perspective. There are over 250 stress-free
recipes to enhance any occasion.
Darina offers advice on menu planning, creating atmosphere (I
personally am not keen on mirror disco balls), getting the party going,
and choosing wine and drinks. If you are new to entertaining then you
should read these chapters before you buy the crate of Newcastle Brown
and the cheese puffs.
The most challenging element of your venture will be deciding what type
of “do” will be most appropriate for your guests. If the average age of
those friends is 5 ¾ years then you might consider looking at
the Children's Food chapter rather than Formal Suppers. A Big Brunch
could be the way to go if you have family who have a long drive home,
and Prepare-ahead Suppers will give you no-fuss dishes for those
evenings when time is an issue.
The recipes are broad-based and exciting. You can mix and match all of
these. Icky Sticky Sausage Wraps from the Children’s Food chapter could
be used as part of an adult brunch. Gateau Pithivier with Gruyere and
Ham from the Portable Food chapter could easily be enjoyed as part of a
formal supper. Darina Allen isn’t going to come round and smack your
leg (not legal now) if you have your own menu combinations.
I’d be happy to munch my way through all these recipes. There are
stylish snacks like Rory’s Spicy Popcorn which couldn’t be easier. The
spices in question are chilli, pepper, cumin, curry powder, fresh
ginger and garlic. Mouth-watering! Temari Sushi (Clingfilm Sushi) is
new to me but what a great idea. Sushi rice is formed using the
aforementioned clingfilm. Attractive little balls are simple to produce
and a lot less terrifying than the usual rolled varieties of sushi.
The Slow Food chapter has some comforting winter warmers. Beef and
Oxtail Stew with Parsnip Mash isn’t difficult to make and has a rich
texture and flavour. What could be better on a cold night, followed by
Steamed Sultana Pudding? Then there is Slow-roasted Shoulder of Lamb
with Cumin Seeds. Now, this is almost no-cooking cooking. Put in a low
oven and leave for a few hours. Your kitchen will be filled with the
most delicious aromas.
Easy Entertaining isn’t just for entertaining. It’s simply a great
cookbook with inspiring recipes that will become family favourites.
Another success, Darina!
Easy Entertaining
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-761-8
Divine –
Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Perhaps we could say that this book is Divine by name and
Divine by
nature. The “nature” in question is that of Fairtrade chocolate.
Linda Collister, the author, has long been a supporter of fair trade
and has compiled these recipes which specifically use Divine Fairtrade
Chocolate. I guess you could use other brands of good quality chocolate
but why not do something good for yourself and others. The Divine brand
offers some of the best chocolate around and each bar you buy helps
support farmers in Ghana. This isn’t a free hand-out. Those farmers
work hard but get a fair price for their cocoa beans. A win-win
partnership.
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is a sumptuous volume
in classy black and gold. The photography by Lisa Barber is excellent
and the gold coloured text gives this book in general a very high-end
feel. The pages are decorated with traditional West African Adinkra
symbols which celebrate the relationship between Divine, the company,
and Kuapa Kokoo, the farmers’ co-operative in Ghana.
However much you applaud the fair trade philosophy, you will buy this
book for its truly delectable recipes. Well, where do I start? There
are lots of traditional favourites like chocolate chip cookies but many
have a bit of a twist. White Chocolate Cookies Studded with Cranberries
are a treat and Lava Peanut Cookies sound downright intriguing, with
Lava being an easy fudge icing added after baking. Looks like a great
wet-afternoon project with the kids.
Many of the recipes are quite out of the ordinary. Balsamic and
Chocolate Cake is egg- and dairy-free. Linda says this one works well
with some mascarpone and ripe figs on the side. Sounds romantic,
Italian and summery. Keeping to that same continental theme, Marbled
Italian Cheesecake uses mascarpone instead of the usual cream cheese to
give a lighter and silkier texture.
Divine not only offers us cake and cookies but ice-creams and savoury
recipes as well. Bitter Orange Soufflés Glaces are quite easy to
make and freeze, ready to be the grand finale of your next smart dinner
for friends. Mexican Day of the Dead White Chocolate Mole doesn’t seem
very cheery but it’s a delicious recipe of chicken with a tasty nutty
sauce. Sounds like a strange combination but it works, trust me, and,
no, this doesn’t taste like a chicken and Mars Bar casserole, the
chocolate is there more for richness than flavour.
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is an impressive,
gift-quality book that has a thoughtful selection of both traditional
and contemporary recipes. Gift-quality it might be but I’ll be keeping
my copy for myself!
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Author: Linda Collister
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 9781904573739
Hamburger – A Global
History
Reaktion Books is a publisher that has presented some of
the most
worthwhile food-related books around. They have just
added a new collection of books to their list and you’ll want these if
you have ever boasted of having a love of food. The Edible Series has
three titles at the moment (Hamburger, Pizza and Pancake) but more will
be added soon.
Hamburger – A Global History is a small-format book but it has a
quality feel to it and a wealth of historic and iconic illustrations.
The author Andrew F. Smith is a hamburger aficionado but obviously
doesn’t spend all his time in fast-food joints. He has found time to
pen The Encyclopaedia of Junk Food and Fast Food, and he edited The
Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, and teaches culinary
history at the New York School, New York.
Either you love or loath the ubiquitous burger but we probably all
agree that it’s here to stay. So the question is “Why is it here?” and
why is “here” all over the world? Hamburger – A Global History
considers not only the nutritional nature of the patties but their
social impact. I doubt that any food product has caused more outrage or
adoration than these ever-present meat-filled buns.
At the time of publishing, McDonalds boasts sales of over 100 billion
hamburgers, which works out to be about 16 hamburgers for every person
alive in the world. The statistics are mind-blowing! The hamburger has
however been an American classic since the 1890s and was on sale in
every diner, cafe and restaurant in the US by the 1930s.
Did you know, dear reader, that the first commercial hamburgers sold
outside the USA were served in Paris? They were served to expats in the
1920s. I note that a “Macdo” is still the food of choice for many
visiting Americans. Furthermore, The McAloo Tikki Burger is the best
selling burger in India! The first burger chain in India was Nirula’s
in the 1950’s. Their menu included Paneer Burger, Mutton Maniac Burger,
French Flip Burger (chicken) and Crazy Pea Burger (made from dried
peas).
We in the UK preferred our fast food to be a little slower than
Mcdonalds so embraced the Wimpy Bar. These are a dying breed of burger
restaurants with an unexpected touch of civilisation. You get a real
plate with real cutlery served by a waiter who is often real and you
can wash your meal down with a nice cuppa tea...with a saucer!
Hamburger – A Global History offers us a comprehensive exploration of
the ever popular fast food and considers the future. It’s a thoroughly
entertaining read and a “must read” for anyone who has either an
interest in food in general or who has concerns over the globalization
of meat-based fast food.
Hamburger – A Global History
Author: Andrew F. Smith
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-390-1
Quick and Easy
Low-Fat Cooking
It should be no surprise that I am here again with another
Catherine
Atkinson cookbook. Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking follows the same
format as all the Quick and Easy series. Slim volumes but full of
delicious recipes, mouth-watering photography and, most important, the
information is always accurate and understandable.
It’s probably true to say that there are quite a few Low-Fat cookery
books around but the recipes here have the advantage of speed without
sacrificing taste. Catherine has selected dishes that trick you into
thinking that these are not light foods at all. The combinations of
ingredients, spices and textures will allow you to make healthy choices
and you’ll enjoy doing it.
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking isn’t exactly a “diet” book but rather a
“change your eating habits because you need to shed some weight and
live a healthy life” book. Have a flick through the pages and you’ll
see that making some simple adjustments will make a big difference.
Take the time to read the few short chapters before the recipes. These
give key advice on eating well and cutting down on fat. There is a
Weekly Meal Planner which will help you through the first four weeks
and Catherine has even provided shopping lists so there will be no
excuse to resort to the chippie or take-away half way through week two!
It’s not necessary to be overweight to use and enjoy this book. The
food is just tasty. Moroccan Chicken is seasoned with coriander, cumin
and cinnamon with a tang of fresh ginger. It’s the spice here that
gives the impression of richness that is often provided by oil.
Catherine suggests green beans with this and I reckon that would be
smart enough for a dinner party. This dish is ready in less than 40
minutes and it is simple.
There are plenty of vegetarian dishes on offer. Many vegetarians say
that too often they resort to cheese as the main meal ingredient. Open
Lasagne is stuffed with fresh vegetables and has the stylish
contemporary look of a real cheffy dish. The recipe uses only 25g (1oz)
of grated Parmesan to garnish.
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking will be welcomed by anyone who either
wants or needs to consider a lower-fat diet. Remember that there are
more things to eat than to avoid. Catherine Atkinson has provided a
tool to make a positive and painless life change. Enjoy!
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking
Author: Catherine Atkinson
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03455-9
How to Cook for
Food Allergies
Are food allergies more common these days or are we just
more aware?
It’s evident that there are a lot of people who have adverse reactions
to common
ingredients but everyone wants to eat delicious food. How to Cook for
Food Allergies will be welcomed by millions who want to provide safe
food for the whole family with dishes that everyone can enjoy.
Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne is a chef and co-author of award-winning Leith’s
Techniques Bible. She has not only taught but has run her own catering
business. She has three children, two of whom have food allergies.
Lucinda is well-placed to give advice born of first-hand experience.
If problem foods were ingredients such as truffles, larks tongues in
aspic and fillet of aardvark then this book would never have been
written. It’s common foods that cause the difficulties. Eggs, soya,
nuts, gluten and dairy are the main culprits. If you want to have a
varied and interesting diet then you need to know how to substitute
these foods for ones that will not present symptoms. Lucinda gives you
all the advice you’ll need to make those substitutions.
How to Cook for Food Allergies has three parts, the first being Living
with Food Allergies. It’s probably the most important element of the
book as it deals with how to avoid problem foods, eating out and
travelling, and eating a balanced diet on a restricted diet.
The second part of How to Cook for Food Allergies tells us how to
substitute ingredients, and each of those common problem foods has a
chapter. Read this and you’ll start to see the light at the end of the
culinary tunnel. Lucinda offers us the prospect of real food that
doesn’t taste like a compromise.
The third part introduces the recipes and you’ll linger over these
because they are good, flavourful dishes that are easy to prepare and
will be appreciated by the whole family. Gone are the days of cooking
two different meals to accommodate allergy sufferers as well as those
lucky folk who can eat everything down to the pattern on the plate.
Moroccan Chicken, Apricot, Olive and Saffron Tagine is aromatic and
exotic but free of dairy, gluten, eggs, nuts and soya. Lasagne al Forno
will become a favourite if you use gluten-free pasta. There are lots of
allergy-aware products in supermarkets today. Gluten-Free White Bread
uses potato flour, cornflour, tapioca flour and rice flour instead of
the conventional strong wheat bread flour. The same recipe can be used
to make pizza.
How to Cook for Food Allergies is a practical cookbook that will be a
god-send for anyone who either suffers from food allergies or cooks for
someone with a food intolerance. It’s well-researched but not over
technical. It’s sure to become a best-seller.
How to Cook for Food Allergies
Author: Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne
Published by: Rodale, Pan Macmillan
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-905744-28-2
500 Pizzas and
Flatbreads
I have never come across anyone who doesn’t like bread and
there are
very few people who would pass up on a deliciously garnished pizza. 500
Pizzas and Flatbreads has enough ideas to keep everyone happy. It’s
another volume in the Apple Press 500 series of books. They are always
well written and well presented with great shelf-appeal, but they
are also thoroughly practical.
Rebecca Baugniet is a freelance food writer who has also penned 500
Pies and Tarts and has worked as the food consultant on other books in
the 500 series and her passion for food is evident in this smashing
volume.
Making bread isn’t rocket science, dear reader. All you need are a few
simple ingredients and a couple of good recipes. Bread dough is
versatile and more forgiving than you would imagine. Pizza and
flatbreads are a good start for the novice baker. They are after
all...er, flat! It’s the light and lofty loaf that worries people but
that’s not what we are after here.
If you are a lover of a good quality pizza then you will expect to part
with quite a bit of cash for each pie. If you make your own you have
several advantages. First, freshness and quality. (OK that’s two but I
am trying to be fair!) Second, your choice is endless, everything from
traditional cheese and tomato with a sprig of fresh basil, to figs!
Third, you’ll send the kids to Uni on the money you’ll save. You need
the cash more than the lad on the moped does!
Rebecca has provided us with several basic pizza base recipes and then
it’s on to the delicious variations. There is everything from the most
humble but classic and still popular cheese-topped pizza to Steak and
Mushroom Pizza. There are hundreds of recipes here and you’ll make
little adjustments to suit your taste. Once you have mastered the
simple technique of making the dough then there will be no stopping
you.
If you prefer more classic flatbreads then you’ll be pleased to find
Classic Fougasse with its tang of black olives. Focaccia has the
delicate flavour of olive oil and the crunch of sea salt. Crisp Rye
Flatbread or “knackerbrod” is listed here and would be lovely served
with some flavourful cheese. The list of flatbreads is almost endless
and truly international. There are lots from India, Mexico and the USA.
500 Pizzas and Flatbreads offers plenty of advice to the novice bread
maker as well as an amazing selection of recipes both classic and
contemporary to the more experienced baker. Another great value book
from Apple Press.
500 Pizzas and Flatbreads
Author: Rebecca Baugniet
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-270-6
The Legendary
Cuisine of Persia
I can’t overestimate the importance of The
Legendary Cuisine of Persia.
There are so few books on the culinary history of Iran although it has
had a profound effect upon the foods of
so many eastern countries as well as the Mediterranean diet.
Margaret Shaida, the author, was born in England but moved to Iran when
she married. She lived there for 25 years and learned to cook from her
mother-in-law, friends and other family members.
At first glance you might find it difficult to see the relevance of
Persian cuisine in modern Europe but there are a few clues to its
impact. The Old Persian bâdangân became al-badinjan in
Arabic, alberjinera in Spanish, and finally aubergine in French and
English. The word Spanish has its origin in the Old Persian espenj,
orange came from nârang, lemon came from limoo.
The Moghuls (Mongols) invaded Persia and adopted the language, cuisine
and religion of their new land. Two hundred years later Tamerlane, a
direct descendant of Genghiz Khan, set his sights on India and took
with him the traditions of the Persian court and kitchen. Biryani is
the Persian word for baked, nan was introduced to India by the Persians
and was baked in a tanoor which later became a tandoor. It’s certain
that India has changed the original Persian dishes and made them her
own. They might have the same names but they are spicier now.
The recipes are divided by type with a chapter on bread being first.
This might seem strange but bread has an almost mythical importance
even in the modern Iranian home. It’s never wasted or allowed to fall
to the floor. Left-overs are made into breadcrumbs rather than being
thrown away.
There are delightful recipes here. They have subtle and aromatic
flavours rather than being hot with spices. Rice dishes are held in
high esteem but poorer families might only eat these on festival days.
Rice with Herbs (Sabzi Polow) is perfumed with parsley, coriander, dill
and chives. Rice with Dried Fruit and Nuts (Ajeel Polow) is substantial
and delicious with minced lamb, crisp fried onions and dried cherries.
Kebabs are now familiar to us in the west. Margaret Shaida offers us a
mouth-watering selection all of which will be more succulent and tasty
than the dodgy examples found in late-night take-aways from Brighton to
Beijing. Lamb Fillet Kebab is delicate and tender and you’ll notice the
difference.
Pickles are traditionaly a big thing in Iranian homes so Margaret has
included several interesting ones. Pickled Shallots are easy to produce
although a bit time-consuming. Make large quantities of these and
you’ll have something different to offer guests. Try them and you’ll
agree they are worth the effort.
It’s always tempting to just jump directly into the recipes in
cookbooks. Don’t do that with this book. You’ll miss so much
fascinating information. Claudia Roden has said “...the background and
history of the food is both a joy and a precious contribution to the
world of gastronomy.” If you have a serious interest in food then you
will find this book enchanting.
The Legendary Cuisine of Persia
Author: Margaret Shaida
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-902304-60-8
Dorling
Kindersley's "blogabeer"
This is going to be a regular item here at Mostly Food Journal - a
review of beer in association with Dorling Kindersley's "blogabeer"
project. Each week there will be a new beer reviewed by not only me but
many other food and drink enthusiasts. You'll find the full blog and
all the comments at www.blogabeer.co.uk.
Deuchars IPA
A light amber colour with a reasonable head on pouring. This has a
hoppy bitterness with a tang of lemon zest. Deuchars IPA has a steady
fizz of small bubbles which gives this beer a light and summery appeal.
The malty nose is pleasant and not overpowering. The aftertaste isn't
long-lasting so this might be a beer to chose if beer isn't your usual
tipple. This could be ideal served chilled at a BBQ. Deuchars IPA is a
long way from a flat-cap-and-whippet style of beer.
Great British Cheeses
This has got to be in my top ten books reviewed this year.
If you love
cheese you will not only like this book, you will
need it, use it and probably take it with you on weekend trips away.
Great British Cheeses by Jenny Linford is a veritable encyclopaedia of
our finest cheeses. Irish Cheeses are also featured.
The photography by Will Heap is marvellous with crisp detailed pictures
of every cheese mentioned. There are over three hundred of those and
that’s a surprise. OK, so the French have a few more but their country
is four times the size of the UK so I reckon that we are giving them a
run for their money, not only in varieties per acre but also in quality.
Jenny has campaigned for high-quality, independently produced food
since 1991. She has written books, articles and restaurant reviews and
has founded Gastro-Soho Tours offering guided tours of London’s best
cuisine.
This volume is an education. A comprehensive look at not only the
cheeses themselves but also a history of cheese making, types of cheese
and buying and serving cheese. There are chapters on Fresh, Soft,
Semi-Soft, Hard and Blue cheeses so it’s easy to find just the type you
are looking for.
The information here is amazing. Y-Fenni (I do love this cheese
although it’s difficult to find outside South Wales) has a description
of manufacture, texture and flavour, a location map and the picture.
That’s not all... Size – D18cm, H5cm, Weight 1.5kg, Shape – wheel, Milk
– pasteurized cows, Rennet – vegetarian, Type – modern. Jenny doesn’t
tell us how many children the cheese producer has nor the names of the
cows but I think those are the only omissions.
Each of the three hundred cheeses included in this volume has the same
in-depth profile. You can see why I consider Great British Cheeses to
be one of the most informative cheese books around. Our best cheeses
are not copies of continental favourites but are unique to Britain and
this book is a tool to enable you to choose the ones that you’ll enjoy
most. Have a look in local cheese shops when you next take a few days
away. There are some truly delicious surprises!
Great British Cheeses
Author: Jenny Linford
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-4053-3436-5
The Cooking Book
This could just as easily be called “The BIG Cookbook”,
“The Everything
You Will Ever Need to Know About Cooking Cookbook” or “Recipes for the
Culinarily Challenged”. The Cooking Book is a bumper volume with added
extras.
Editor-in-chief Victoria Blashford-Snell has produced a book that is
amazing both in format and in content. The “extras” include a 90-minute
DVD which gives hand-holding instructions on cooking techniques. There
is also a unique addition of a pocket shopping list for each recipe in
the book, which saves you the bother of writing one yourself. What a
great idea!
The Cooking Book has over 1000 recipes. The cover describes them as
“favourite everyday recipes” but they are quite a bit more special than
that. There is a definite international feel and the dishes are well
chosen to be easy to prepare. Each one is clear with step-by-step
instructions and cooking times. There are tantalising photographs for
every recipe which help to give a vibrant feel to the book.
I am impressed by the dishes. They reflect modern tastes but include
traditional favourites as well. It’s good to see sausages getting a
mention. In these days of high food prices more of us are looking at
cheaper cuts of meat, and the humble banger helps us spin out the
housekeeping money. Sausage, Bacon and Egg Pie makes an attractive and
tasty family meal. Fabada is a spicy Spanish sausage stew that would
make a scrumptious dish for a casual dinner party. Some fresh crusty
bread and a salad would be all you’d need to add.
We should all eat more fish and The Cooking Book offers, amongst
others, Mackerel with Cucumber Salad - that’s still a reasonably priced
fish. Stuffed Sardines in Vine Leaves would be a delight when the
weather is good enough for a barbecue, or Fisherman’s Tuna Stew for
when it’s not. Plan to eat a lot of this next summer!
The Cake and Dessert section is mouth-watering. Caramel Apple and
Almond Tart is a delicious change from the more usual Pear and Almond
Tart. Autumn Fruit Tart has the feel of an old-fashioned pud. Apples,
pears and blackberries are always a great combination and this looks as
good as it tastes.
The Cooking Book is a complete and broad-based recipe book that is
ideal for either the novice cook or the experienced culinary hand. A
smashing family cookbook.
The Cooking Book
Author: Victoria Blashford-Snell
Published by Dorling Kindersley
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-3222-4
Stylish Thai in Minutes
You gotta love it - any cookbook that is called, “No
Stress”, “2
Ingredients”, “A Meal in a Moment” or “No Cooking Cookbook”. This book
truly is Stylish Thai in Minutes and it had my vote before I even
opened the cover. I love cooking but I don’t want to spend all my time
in the kitchen. A bit of time in the dining room is my goal!
Vatcharin Bhumichitr is probably one of the UK’s most celebrated Thai
restaurateurs and authors. His career started in the 70s and he has
gone from strength to strength with various food-related projects. He
is well respected within the industry and his books are always well
received.
Stylish Thai in Minutes is a large-format and sumptuous book with
Martin Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit supplying the photographs.
This collaboration has also produced stunning results for others of
Vatch’s cookbooks. There are over 120 recipes that will encourage you
to try this marvellously attractive and flavourful cuisine.
Thai food is becoming more popular in the UK. There are many more
restaurants and ingredients are more readily available than ever.
Thailand has become a popular tourist destination. Those same tourists
want to make authentic Thai food at home and Vatcharin Bhumichitr is an
authentic Thai cookbook author.
The dishes are divided by type. The chapters start with Appetisers and
Snacks and continue through Salads and Soups, Curries and Main Dishes,
Noodles and Rice, to Fruit, Desserts and Drinks. The recipes are clear
and easy to follow with both cooking and preparation times indicated.
Apart from the recipes there are stunning pictures and articles about
Thai culture and arts. Vatch’s pride in his homeland is evident.
But it’s the food you are most interested in. The thought of meals that
take 30 minutes or less to prepare will have already caught your
attention. There is nothing here that is either difficult or
time-consuming but the food is uncompromising in its deliciousness.
Heavenly Beef (Nua Sawan) only has five ingredients and takes five
minutes to cook. OK, so the meat needs to marinade for an hour but you
don’t need to keep it company. Vatch says that in Thailand after
marinating the meat is left in the sun for a day to dry. That might be
difficult to do in the UK!
Pork with Garlic and Peppercorns is spicy and hot from the pepper
rather than the usual chillies. You will love this one, dear reader!
Only 3 minutes preparation time and 5 minutes cooking time and it does
look stylish.
Stylish Thai in Minutes is a gentle introduction to Thai cooking and
I’ll be delving into its lovely pages often.
Stylish Thai in Minutes
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-537-9
Food GLorious Food
No, it’s not a mistake. Food GLorious Food is the correct
title for
this book. Note the GL. That’s the clue. This is full of low-GL recipes
and I am sure that is music to your ears if you only knew what GL was,
either high, low or average. I confess that I wasn’t sure!.
GL is short for glycemic load and though it’s not talked about as often
as, say, fat, carbohydrate or even glycemic index it remains key to
health. It all sounds very technical but the authors of Food GLorious
Food, Patrick Holford and Fiona McDonald Joyce, give us all the
information to allow us to make good choices.
Patrick is one of the UK’s leading nutrition experts and has penned 30
or so books on healthy living. He is a media spokesman on nutrition and
has 2 million hits on his web site (www.patrickholford.com) every year.
Fiona is a nutritional therapist and cookery consultant.
Food GLorious Food is divided into two parts. The first is the facts on
healthy eating and nutrition. You might be tempted to skip this section
but it’s important to know how food works. It’s not just volume of food
that encourages weight gain but it’s the combination of food types that
causes health problems.
Part two of this book is what you’ll want to delve into. Have a nice
cup of tea and put your feet up. Relax and read some scrumptious
recipes that happen to be good for you. These dishes don’t have that
“your body is a temple so make a sacrifice” sort of feel. These are
seriously great recipes that you will want to eat because they are
delicious.
It’s quite an international selection of dishes. Thai Steamed Prawn
Pots, Chicken Satay, Greek-style Stuffed Pork Tenderloin are just a few
of the exotic recipes and they are all simple to prepare and
flavourful. This food is far from dull. It mirrors modern eating trends
and tastes.
We all know that we should be eating more fish, and Food GLorious Food
has a good selection of fish dishes. Seared Harissa Tuna Steak is spicy
and easy to make. Seared Salmon with Garlic and Coriander is fresh and
light.
Vegetarians will be pleased to know that they are not forgotten. Baked
Falafel is a healthy alternative to the fried traditional. Chickpea and
Cauliflower Curry is rich and comforting and the authors tell us to use
the full-fat coconut milk. I love this book!
We should all be thinking about what we eat. Food prices are high so
let’s get the most out of our groceries. You don’t have to spend a lot
to eat well. You just need to have support and advice. Food GLorious
Food will give you all you need to make informed choices and enjoy
doing it.
Food GLorious Food
Authors: Patrick Holford and Fiona McDonald Joyce
Published by: Little Brown Book Group, Piatkus
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7499-0995-6
500 Cocktails
Apple Press has a series of books and all are called 500
something or
other. They are great value, chunky books and this one, 500 Cocktails,
is no exception. The photographs of these classy drinks are gorgeous.
Ian Garlick has done a great job. Wendy Sweetser is the author, and she
is an expert on the subject. She has spent many, I presume happy, years
developing cocktails on a professional basis and she is the author of
another 15 food and drink related books.
If you enjoy the classic cocktails then you might like to try mixing
those and more contemporary cocktails at home. It’ll be cheaper and a
lot more fun, although you might not want to spin bottles and juggle
shakers unless you have invested in a nice big tarpaulin along with the
spirits. The recipes are easy. This isn’t cooking it’s mixing, and it’s
difficult to get wrong (even the mistakes will probably taste great!).
There is a bit of equipment that might come in handy and the correct
glasses are always nice but then you are ready to give lovely parties.
Summer is over and we might not naturally think of cocktails as part of
our entertaining. Well, think again, dear reader. 500 Cocktails is full
of drinks that are perfect of any time of year and any occasion. So
picture this. A cold night in Glasgow, snow falling and you’re sipping
a warm Spiced Hot Toddy. There are five variations of this, each one
with a slightly different fruit flavour. Mulled Wine has got to be
popular as you sing (..er, perhaps not) around the Christmas tree. The
alternatives include Gluhwein, Julglogg, The Bishop, Mulled Rum Punch
and Mulled Ale. The delight of this series of books is that once you
have found a favourite recipe you can experiment with slightly
different versions because each recipe has four or five suggestions.
There are so many recipes here, 500, as the book says. You might like
the idea of having a themed cocktail party. How about All American?
There is a list of drinks that would work: Cape Codder, Long Island
Iced Tea (this is NOT tea), Cosmopolitan, which has been made famous by
those raunchy ladies from Sex and the City, and a Manhattan must be
included.
500 Cocktails is a chubby volume that will have you tending bar like a
pro.... from Absinthe Montmartre to Zombie.
500 Cocktails
Author: Wendy Sweetser
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-271-3
Ballymaloe Cookery
Course
If you only want to own and use one cookbook then you
should consider
the Ballymaloe Cookery Course. It’s a hefty
tome but it’s big for a reason. It’s got probably more
information than
most of us will ever need. A real one-stop cooking manual.
Darina Allen has endeared herself to millions all over the world with
her on-screen charm and sunny disposition. Her Ballymaloe cookery
school has been a resounding success and this book is the portable
version of that popular establishment.
There is nothing missing, nothing left to chance. Nigel Slater of the
Observer says “Lovely recipes and plenty of help for the new cook.” It
has a solid and convincing feel. Darina has a fine reputation and
writes in a style which is clear and conversational. The photographs by
Ray Main and Peter Cassidy are many and marvellous with ample
step-by-step illustrations. Storecupboard ingredients and temperature
and weight conversion charts, as well as basic stock recipes are also
included.
Apart from looking at the pretty pictures you will probably want to
cook from this book. Although this is a complete cookery bible it’s not
old-fashioned and the recipes cover not only the traditional but also
newer trends and ethnic dishes. There is everything here from oranges
to offal. The choice of recipes is staggering: 1100 delicious dishes
should be enough to keep even the keenest cook going for a good while.
So let’s eat! Some recipes are Ballymaloe Cookery School originals but
there are a thousand others as well. There are some traditional Irish
dishes but lots of other international recipes. North Indian Fruit
Chat, Petits Pots de Gibier (a savoury custard), Yakiniku (marinated
beef), Vietnamese Pork and Lemongrass Patties are just a few of the
more exotic offerings.
Ballymaloe Cookery Course is just what the title says. It’s a book that
takes you through a wide spectrum of kitchen skills. You are supplied
with all the technical advice and culinary support that you’ll need to
become a confident and competent cook. Include this book on your “must
have” list of cookbooks. This would make an ideal gift for anyone
leaving home and starting a life without mum as a kitchen fixture.
Ballymaloe Cookery Course
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-85626-729-8
Easy Japanese Cookbook
This
isn’t just a large format volume, it’s a seriously large format
complete with a CD of traditional Japanese music to listen to while you
are either cooking or sitting cross-legged in agony at your coffee
table pretending to be eating at a tea house in Nagoya.
Easy Japanese Cookbook is not only seriously large it’s seriously
beautiful, with huge colour pictures by William Lingwood. The text is
clear and the recipes easy to follow. Each one has preparation time and
cooking time clearly marked. It’s a wire-bound cookbook which gives the
advantage of staying open on the counter. No need for bottles of Sake
balanced at the corners.
The author, Emi Kazuko, has penned several cookbooks (her book Street
Cafe Japan was made into a TV series for UK Style) and is no stranger
to BBC radio. It’s obvious that she appreciates that Japanese cuisine
is new to many of us in the UK. Emi leads us through every aspect from
ingredients, cooking methods, equipment and basic recipes to
appetizers, main courses, etc. The menu section will tell you all you
need to know about putting together an authentic Japanese meal.
Japanese food might not be as familiar to us as, say, Indian or even
Thai but just a quick flick through the pages and you’ll see that it is
easy. Nothing here takes much hands-on effort. There are a few recipes
that demand a few hours marinade time but you don’t have to sit and
watch the food as it soaks, do you?
Ginger Pork with Rocket Salad is an old-established and popular dish in
Japan. It couldn’t be simpler. It takes 15 minutes to prepare, 10
minutes marinade time and 10 minutes to cook. It won’t break the bank,
it’s authentic and it’s a lovely family meal.
Most of us will know the name Sukiyaki. No, not the Japanese pop song
released in Japan in 1961 and in the US and UK in 1963 and sung by Kyu
Sakamoto, killed in a plane crash in 1985 (Impressed aren’t you?). No,
this is the classic dish cooked in a cast iron pan at the table. It’s a
delicious combination of beef and vegetables. It couldn’t be
easier...your guests will be doing the cooking.
Anyone who wants to try Japanese food at home will find all they need
in Easy Japanese Cookbook. It will take away the terror for beginners
and supply the more practised with lovely recipes... and some nice
music as well.
Easy Japanese Cookbook
Author: Emi Kazuko
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-656-7
Quick and Easy
20-minute Meals
This book presents the acceptable face of fast food. The
Quick and Easy
series of cookbooks are always good value and
Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals is another gem. These books spend more
time in the kitchen than they do on your smart bookshelf.
We would all love the luxury of unlimited time to devote to food
preparation but that’s not the real world. Your 6 year old needs a
quick meal before you take him for after-school Latin, your 9 year old
only has an hour at home before he needs to be at ballet class. You
want to feed the family good food but fast.
This, dear reader, isn’t rocket science but Catherine Atkinson offers
good advice (she does with all her books) to enable you to save time
but present delicious and healthy meals. There is information about
setting up a storecupboard with the basics, storage and freezing, and
planning ahead. A few pages of reading and you’ll be ready to start
cooking.
Cutting back on preparation time doesn’t mean cutting down on taste,
comfort or quality of meals. There are lovely recipes here that
compromise nothing for the sake of speed. You’ll find chapters on
snacks and light meals, meats, fish, and vegetarian. Something for
everyone.
Fish Fingers and Beans doesn’t sound like it should have a place in a
cookbook. Take the time to read the recipe and you’ll find that this is
quite a classy meal with cannellini beans, olives, sweet chilli sauce
and pitta bread. Spicy Seafood Pasta is a posh alternative to fish
fingers, and you’ll be eating in only 15 minutes.
The vegetarian section offers Mixed Vegetable Stir-fry with Teriyaki
Tofu. It’s exotic with rich flavours but still only takes 20 minutes to
make a meal for four. Staying with the oriental theme, Hoisin Pork
Skewers would make a spectacular presentation for either a fast meal or
as a starter.
Dessert is often forgotten when you are pressed for time. Fresh fruit
or yoghurt always seems such a cheat so how about Hot Chocolate Pots or
Pear and Cinnamon Tarts? How impressed will your friends be when you
apologise for ONLY preparing Mango and Lime Syllabub!
Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals is a well-written and useful cookbook.
The only thing you will dislike is that you will no longer have lack of
time as an excuse for not cooking. The guy at the local take-away will
think you have moved.
Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals
Author: Catherine Atkinson
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03486-3
Wise
Words and Country Ways for Cooks
Our language is full of sayings that cover almost every
aspect of life.
A stitch in time saves nine, All’s well that ends well, Money talks,
Like father – like son, It’s a long way to Tipperary...er,...or
something like that. Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks, however,
focuses on kitchen-based wisdom and gives some sensible and enduring
advice on all things culinary.
Ruth Binney has evident enthusiasm for the collection of this old-time
kitchen lore and has produced a book that has a real retro feel about
it. It has a style that will be familiar to those of us of a certain
age who had access to original 1950s cookbooks, but there is much here
that reflects kitchen practice of a century before that. It’s charming.
There are wonderfully evocative sections such as “A woman who has
mastered sauces sits on the apex of civilization”, “A Tart Tatin served
cold has no merits.” (Now, that’s a bit strong!), “A salad dressing
requires a spendthrift for oil, a judge for salt, a miser for vinegar
and a madman to mix them.” All very colourful but there is some solid
instruction here on cooking techniques.
Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks isn’t a recipe book but it’s got
plenty of tips for cooks. There is advice from some celebrated food
writers: Fannie Merritt Farmer writes about frosting (icing), Tabitha
Tickletooth (I kid you not) focuses on fish and Shirley Conran will
always be remembered for her statement that “Life is too short to stuff
a mushroom.”
Aside from the quotes from the noteworthy the rest of the book is pure
Ruth Binney. She is a lady who knows her stuff and has a compelling way
with words. This volume revels in nostalgia but it’s a book that works
not only as an amusing read but as a reminder that advice that was good
decades ago is still just as valid today. It will be ideal for lovers
of kitchen memorabilia.
Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks
Author: Ruth Binney
Published by: David and Charles
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-07153-3008-1
Simple Pleasures
I find myself on the horns of a dilemma! I’ll explain,
dear reader.
This is a marvellous book, Simple Pleasures – Edible Gifts for Friends
and Family to give its full title, but there is a problem. Should I
give this book as Christmas gifts to all my friends, or should I use
the recipes to make presents for the aforementioned chums?
There are a few books around that give ideas for edible presents but
this is the first that I have come across that gives such detailed
instructions on wrapping, tagging and box making. The finished results
are very professional and will add so much to the presentation of your
lovely cooking.
So how about the recipes? Well, they are broad-based and charming. I
would be tickled to be the recipient of any of them. There are several
categories which cover Jams, Preserves and Chutneys, Cakes and
Biscuits, Sweets and Chocolates, and Drinks and Accompaniments. You are
bound to find a suitable gift for those special people in your life.
There are recipes that you would expect in this type of book. Chocolate
truffles have always been a favourite homemade gift so its inclusion is
no surprise, but there are some great new ideas. Cranberry and Orange
Preserve will be great with the Boxing Day cold cuts as would East
India Chutney. Preserved Lemons Moroccan-style is a stunner and a bit
exotic.
If sweet treats are more to your taste then there is plenty on offer.
Buttered Brazil Nuts, Cinder Toffee and Brown Sugar Fudge will make a
change from a Selection Box but don’t forget those friends whose eyes
will only light up at the sight of a bottle-shaped parcel. Limoncello,
Flavoured Vodkas and Crème de Cassis are among the list of
“adult” delights. My choice is a pretty bottle of Winter Liqueur with
warming cloves, cinnamon and allspice.
After careful consideration I have decided to give this book as an
early Christmas present to my friends in the hopes that they will have
the opportunity to make these jams, drinks and sweets in time to box
them up and send them to me! You’ll hear no complaints! This is a gift
that offers as much to the giver as to the receiver.
Simple Pleasures
Authors: Stephanie Evans, Andrew Franks, Susanna Tee
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-293-5
Vatch’s Thai Street Food
This is a lovely large-format volume with brilliant food
and travelogue
photography by Martin Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit. Vatch is
in fact Vatcharin Bhumichitr who is probably the most celebrated Thai
chef in the UK. He has been cooking and running restaurants in Britain
since 1976.
Thailand has a vibrant and active street food culture with most Thais
eating from stalls at least once a day. The dishes have a reputation
for being both attractive and delicious and are so popular with
tourists that some consider eating street food as the highlight of a
trip.
Cooking Thai food at home might be a new challenge for many of us.
Perhaps “challenge” is the wrong word: these dishes aren’t complicated
but you’ll be introduced to a few new ingredients, although these will
be found in larger high street supermarkets. The cooking techniques
will hold no terrors.
Vatch starts us off with the preparation of the basic red and green
curry pastes. There are many good quality ready-made pastes available
these days so don’t be put off. There is a comprehensive store cupboard
and fresh ingredient list. There isn’t much special equipment although
a large mortar and pestle would be handy.
The recipes are divided by location. Bangkok is the obvious choice for
the first chapter and this is followed by The Sea, The North and The
Northeast. The dishes reflect the ingredients popular in each area but
they all look scrumptious.
I am so pleased to find a recipe for White Radish Cake with
Beansprouts. This might sound a strange concoction but trust me, it’s
delicious. It’s easy to make and works well as either part of a meal or
as a dim sum if served with chilli sauce.
Grilled Chicken with Sweet Chilli Sauce couldn’t be simpler to make.
It’s lip-smacking scrumptious and is sure to become a favourite.
Deep-fried Spare Ribs will be another recipe I’ll use often. The ribs
are tasty and versatile as they remain a delightful snack even when
cold and are ideal as exotic picnic fare.
Fish Cakes with Fresh Pickle (Tod Man Pla) will be a dish familiar to
most tourists. The flavour and texture will be sure to revive memories
of markets and saffron-robed monks in Bangkok. These little morsels
make such a delightful presentation with the pickle served in a
separate little bowl of, preferably, blue and white Thai design.
Vatch has penned a lovely book that introduces us to an easily
accessible part of everyday Thai life. Reading Vatch’s Thai Street Food
might just encourage you to think more seriously about that
long-planned holiday!
Vatch’s Thai Street Food
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-402-5
Irish Traditional
Cooking
Darina Allen is surely one of the most celebrated Irish
cooks of our
time. If she isn’t then it’s probable that whoever you might consider
worthy of that accolade also has the name of Allen: it’s quite a
dynasty. There is no doubt though that Darina must win the contest of
quickest smile and she has been described as the Irish Delia Smith.
Irish Traditional Cooking is a lovely book which Nigel Slater says
“...is the equivalent of being given a big hug.” It might sound a
strange thing to say of a cookbook but turn a few pages and you will
feel a real glow as you imagine these comforting dishes. It’s not only
this humble writer that has appreciated its quality. Irish Traditional
Cooking has won the acclaimed Langhe Ceretto-SEI prize.
This is a marvellous collection of over 300 recipes. The charm of it is
that we hear a little of the history of many of these dishes and learn
something of the people that have passed these recipes on to Darina.
Food is, after all, a catalyst for memories of special events and loved
ones. Irish Traditional Cooking has contributions from frayed and
ancient cookbooks as well as friends, family and professionals.
These recipes are a treat. The ingredients are simple but the dishes
are flavourful, comforting, not over-taxing to prepare. Traditional
recipes are sure to be good as they have already withstood the test of
time. There is even a recipe for tripe that sounds tempting and I
didn’t think you would ever hear me say that!
I will, over the next weeks, be grazing my way through this book. I’ll
probably start with Beef and Guinness Stew or will it be Ballymaloe
Spiced Beef? No, no, I’ll go with the Pot Roasted Pork Steaks. It’s not
that easy to pick favourites. Buy the book and you’ll work your way
from cover to cover just as I intend to.
Irish Traditional Cooking has all the usual suspects, those dishes you
would have heard of, but there are so many more that have obviously
been regulars on Irish tables for years. Plum Cakes, home-made cheeses,
Goose Pudding and Irish Stew Pie are just some of the dishes that are a
bit different from the potatoes that you were no doubt expecting.
Darina has penned what is probably the definitive Irish Cookbook.
Anyone who recognises the value of traditional cooking will enjoy this.
This is home cooking at its best.
Irish Traditional Cooking
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-497-6
Ricelands –
The World of South-East Asian Food
Michael Freeman must be one of the most celebrated and
prolific
photographers around. Ricelands is his latest book (there are over 100
others) but this one isn’t about photography. Have a look at
michaelfreemanphoto.com for more of his work.
Michael says of this book: “In it, I write about a subject close to my
heart and even closer to my stomach - the culture of food in South-east
Asia. Learn about one of the world's tastiest regional cuisines and how
it's really prepared and eaten in homes, not at all the same as in
restaurants in the West. And there are two hundred of my photographs,
as well.”
This is an exquisite volume from the award-winning photographer who is
our guide through the cuisines of eight South-east Asian countries.
Thailand, Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia, Malaysia, Laos, The
Philippines and Indonesia are all represented with the most sumptuous
pictures.
This man has obviously gone to some considerable trouble to research
some of the dishes that we tourists are bound to seek out. Of a rather
large insect, Michael writes “Cooked to perfection, it should be rather
more chewy than crisp on the outside, with plenty of rich, gravy-like
liquid remaining inside.”...Um, perhaps later!
But amusing observations aside, this is indeed a well-written and
well-researched book. Michael has a light and very readable style and
his love of food is evident. There are 20 or so recipes at the back of
the book that are tempting. Chilli Crab from Singapore is a robust and
thoroughly delicious dish which will conjure images of sultry evenings
with the aroma of damp vegetation and jasmine floating on the air.
Ricelands – The World of South-east Asian Food is an absorbing read and
will be appreciated not only by lovers of Asian food but by travellers
who want to be transported back to this remarkable part of the world.
This is a marvellous travelogue especially appealing to those of us who
want to know about the “real” food of this region. So much here is new
and fascinating and for that reason alone this would be an inspired
gift for anyone lucky enough to be flying off to South-east Asia.
I think that Michael Freeman has missed his vocation. He should pursue
a career as a food writer and produce a lot more illustrated books of
this quality.
Ricelands – The World of South-East Asian Food
Author: Michael Freeman
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £17.95
ISBN 978-1-86189-378-9
Mary Berry - Desserts
Mary Berry is one of those few cooks who has remained
current and
popular despite the fads and fashions of the
fickle food industry. Mary has over 60 books to her name! Now that must
be worth some kind of a medal...or at least a mention on your favourite
foodie Internet site. Her perennial appeal relies on quality and hard
work, and Desserts is the end result of both those attributes.
This volume has a wealth of recipes that are guaranteed to work. Mary
has been voted among the top 3 by BBC Good Food for the category “Most
Reliable Celebrity Cook Books”. Desserts also has the advantage of fine
step-by-step photographs. For that reason alone this book should become
a best seller. The timid and inexperienced home cook is led painlessly
through every stage of the recipe.
Mary covers the whole gamut of desserts. The recipes are divided by
type – Special Desserts, Cakes, Pies, etc. I found it difficult to
choose some favourites as each recipe is so well presented and
photographed by David Murray – he did a superb job. But I managed: I
don’t think there is a single sweet delight here that wouldn’t be a
winner. One of the easiest of this collection has got to be Cherries
Glacés. This is a lovely dessert to make ahead of time, and it’s
a stunner. It has a “why didn’t I think of that” order of simplicity.
It’s a good illustration of why Mary Berry continues to do what she
does, and the rest of us just enjoy the results.
Mincemeat and Pear Flan would be a great alternative to mince pies at
Christmas. Once again a simple recipe but Mary manages to think outside
the box of tradition. There are still plenty of the usual dessert
suspects and this book is given balance by their inclusion.
Desserts is packed with lovely recipes but its strength lies in the
detailed instructions. There are several pages of chocolate cake
decorations, fancy pastry edges, fruit tartlets, biscuit decoration.
Mary has taken as much trouble over presentation as over the desserts
themselves. You’ll be producing professional-looking puds with
confidence in no time at all.
Desserts is destined to become a standard. It’s an attractive book with
over 200 scrumptious recipes to inspire and entice.
Desserts
Author: Mary Berry
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-3434-1
In Praise of Poteen
What exactly is Poteen or Poitín? If you are Irish
then you’ll
already know. If you are American then you will recognise the same
beverage under the name of Moonshine. Yes, dear reader, it’s the
intoxicating illegal liquor of the Emerald Isle and has a history
steeped in folkloric charm and myth.
In Praise of Poteen by John McGuffin is an entertaining read of the
bitter-sweet variety. Its subject matter lends itself to comic
interludes but also introduces us to the harsh reality of the Irish
poor. Many dangers were encountered in not only the manufacture of the
drink but also the consumption of the aforementioned hooch.
In 1854 a revenue officer claimed “the average Poitín maker can
clear 3 shillings (15p) a gallon profit”. The officer also stated that
this wasn’t as good as in 1818 when “deducting all their losses,
expenses and risks, together with bribes paid to the revenue officers,
the Poitín maker makes £1 for each day he works”. Nice to
think that a cottage industry supported all members of the community!
It seems to have been a popular and profitable pastime and one that
landlords were reluctant to stamp out. The reason for turning a blind
eye had nothing to do with desire to allow tenants to throw the
occasional party but had everything to do with the fact that the income
from the drink was often the only method of making money enough to pay
the landlord his rent.
The by-products of Poteen were put to good use. The first run was very
strong and almost undrinkable, so was considered as a balm for cuts and
sprains. The waste was fed to cattle and anyone with cows in peak
condition was suspected of involvement with the illegal industry.
A rather dangerous by-product was ether, which was also used as a drink
in Ulster. This was truly nasty stuff and difficult to consume without
drinking a glass of water before, a glass of water after and holding
one’s nose during the exercise. The period of intoxication only lasted
about twenty minutes and didn’t leave a hangover so you could get drunk
on ether a dozen times a day! That’s a “sobering” thought!
In Praise of Poteen is a fascinating read. Its style is rich and
amusing and it is sure to be a classic. Generations of Poteen producers
have gone but this book remains as an unsentimental reminder of a
colourful element of Irish history.
In Praise of Poteen
Author: John McGuffin
Published by Appletree Press, Belfast
Price: £8.99
ISBN 0-86281-768-4
A Summer in Gascony
This is one of the most charming books ever written about
the South of
France. A summer in Gascony – Discovering the Other
South of France, to give it the full title, is all about south-west
France, the opposite side of the country to the trendy and much more
expensive Nice and the Cote d’Azur.
I know this part of the country very well and I can vouch for the
quirkiness of the region that Martin Calder documents so well. The
language IS still French but with a difference. The name Martin might
seem simple to pronounce for us Brits and indeed the majority of the
French population, but he became Martaing to Martin’s local friends.
(Should have rechristened himself with an easy Gallic name like...er,
Vercingétorix.)
Martin spends a summer working in Gascony and encounters characters who
are warm, hospitable and full of humour. It’s a different pace of life
from that of Paris or other big cities and Martin’s experiences were
richer for it. Yes, the natives were friendly and there is even a hint
of romance in the shape of a lovely German lass called Anja.
Jacques-Henri, a farmer and Martin’s employer, and his family are
welcoming and give Martin a home for the summer. Even the stray dog
Pattes (paws) is pleased to have him around. They, together, provide
the backdrop to the season’s adventure.
There are wonderful food-filled interludes with plenty of paing et du
vaing (bread and wine) but also Cassoulet, cornichons and the Mechoui
which is a North African whole roast lamb so often the centre-piece of
large gatherings and celebrations. There is an evening of Pastis and
Peanuts and many encounters with live livestock and dead livestock.
This is still France, where food is pivotal.
A Summer in Gascony offers a realistic look at southern French life.
Martin describes the authentic French Market Day as not just
resplendent in peppers and garlic but also seriously big knickers. This
is a book filled with scenes that will make you smile.
Martin Calder has managed to capture the flavour of Gascony. It is
independent and coulourful. Its people embrace outsiders who appreciate
its unique history and heritage. This is a lovely holiday read or a
book to inspire next year’s tour de France.
A Summer in Gascony
Author: Martin Calder
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-506-4
The World’s Best
Restaurants
The S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards is
considered by
some to be a benchmark for fine dining. Its winners are chosen by
prominent food writers, critics, publishers and the great and the good
of the food industry. Although the awards have been running since 2002
there has been no comprehensive guide to the winning restaurants. This
volume addresses that shortcoming.
Although The S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards lists, as
it says, the 50 best, there are a full one hundred restaurants included
in this directory. There are the 50 runners up who should also be
considered as not too shabby. This is an award covering the whole world
so to even be mentioned is an accolade in itself.
The Fat Duck in Bray, UK is number two in the pecking order. Heston
Blumenthal is head chef along with Ashley Palmer-Watts. The joy of this
book is that there is a whole lot of fascinating information. Did you
know, dear reader, that Heston was once a debt collector while he was
teaching himself to cook? It’s good to read about personal success
through sheer hard work and passion. It’s inspiring!
Each of the top 50 restaurants has a biography of the chef and enough
of an insight into the particulars of the restaurant to enable you to
judge whether it might be just the spot when a special meal is what’s
wanted. You’ll already know that the restaurants are of a universally
high standard but you need to know about the chef’s culinary philosophy
and style.
There is a Lifetime Achievement Award each year and the winner for 2008
is Gualtiero Marchesi who is a handsome 78 year old restaurateur who
has been the recipient of many honours including being a Knight of the
Italian Republic. Previous winners are: 2005 the great Paul Bocuse,
2006 Albert and Michel Roux, and 2007 Alice Waters who has been a huge
influence on the culinary landscape of America.
This is an amazing read. If you love fine food you’ll find it utterly
absorbing. Each chef has devoted himself to the pursuit of excellence
and has, in some cases, overcome obstacles that would have thwarted
lesser mortals. The World’s Best Restaurants is informative, well
written and a great showcase for exceptional achievement.
The World’s Best Restaurants
Authors: Various
Published by: Think Books (Pan Macmillan)
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84525-057-7
Tasting Italy
– A Culinary Journey
This is another of those smart chunky books from Haus
Publishing who
only present top-notch works, and Tasting Italy
by Alice Vollenweider is amongst them.
Italy has a reputation as a food paradise. Not only because there is an
abundance of quality fresh produce but because the Italian housewife
sets high standards in both market and restaurant. It has been argued
that Italy has the highest general standard for restaurant food in
Europe. It might be mostly Italians that argue, though, and they are
indeed very good at it!
This is a marvellously well-written travelogue with a good selection of
classic Italian recipes. All the main regions of Italy are included so
you have a comprehensive guide to all things culinary, and quite a bit
on Italian literature, history and culture. Alice walks us through city
streets and even suggests favourite eateries.
The author’s words paint pictures of Italian food in a truly charming
and mouthwatering fashion. She writes this of a stay with friends in
Florence: “I still clearly remember climbing up beautiful narrow stone
steps all the way to the seventh floor with my suitcase before entering
the enormous bare living room, with a fire burning in the grate and a
spit turning. This friend welcomed me with a meal I shall never forget.
It consisted of just grilled meat, unsalted country bread and pure,
good Chianti.”
Tasting Italy has recipes that are authentic and tempting. They are
conveniently indexed at the back of the book for easy retrieval when
you decide that, yes, a real Italian meal is tonight’s plan. There are
around eighty recipes so there will be something for every taste. They
honestly are not technically challenging but are very flavourful, with
the expected Italian flair for the elegant rustic.
There are quite a few familiar dishes here: Minestrone, Panna Cotta,
Risotto alla Milanese but there are so many others that might be new
delights: Spaghetti alla Puttanesca or Whores’ Spaghetti is robust and
full bodied... just like many of its namesakes! Cassata alla Siciliana
or Sicilian Ricotta Cake is so simple but a real stunner for the end of
your Italian dinner party.
This is an enjoyable insight into the Italian attitude to food and
eating. It’s a book to take with you on your next trip.
Tasting Italy – A Culinary Journey
Author: Alice Vollenweider
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-905791-44-6
Tea – A Journey in Time
This gorgeous large volume deserves to be right alongside
your
encyclopaedia and atlas. Tea – A Journey in Time, Pioneering and Trials
in the Jungle has a classic, almost Victorian, feel and it is a visual
pleasure.
The author is a gentleman by the name of John Weatherspoon and it’s
only by the turn of very good fortune that he was able to write this
book, or indeed any other. John comes from a family of tea planters.
When young he lived in Malaya in a bungalow which was broken into by a
man-eating tiger. The family dog slept by the open bedroom door and
consequently it was he who became a late supper for the aforementioned
cat, rather than the lucky John. It’s real Boys Own stuff!
Tea – A Journey in Time is written in a style that is appropriate to
the subject and utterly charming. John evokes a bygone age but also
introduces us to the modern tea industry and plantations. It must be
the most thorough and impressive work on Tea ever published.
Aside from the engaging text, the illustrations are a formidable
collection and span centuries of plantation life. Each page is a
tightly woven tapestry of prose, prints and photos which give the
impression of a quality and well-researched tome. There can’t be
anything that has escaped John’s attention. He seems to have been
meticulous.
John Weatherspoon has given us a rich picture not only of the history
and mechanics of tea production but of the lives of the planters and
their workers. There is a fascinating ghost story, a tale of Nobby and
the Four-Poster Bed, A Planter’s poem penned in 1931 and many more
plantation-related anecdotes.
It’s easy to take our regular cuppa for granted. I promise that you’ll
regard that favourite beverage with a bit more respect after reading a
few chapters of this book. The dangers and privations were many and it
took courage and fortitude to make a success of a tea plantation. “Many
came with hopes of making a fortune in tea, others for the sheer
challenge and adventure of it all; only those who had actually arrived
in the jungle knew better – that the life of a planter had its
drawbacks.”
Tea – A Journey in Time is an amazing book and utterly praiseworthy.
Tea – A Journey in Time
Author: John Weatherspoon
Published by: Quiller Publishing (JJG Publishing)
Price: £28.00
ISBN 978-1-899163-85-4
The
Complete Traditional Recipe Book
This is a hefty tome that will make you smile as soon as
you flick
through the pages. It’s a pure joy and Sarah Edington’s
collection of over 300 recipes
represents the best of
British cooking. It’s from The National Trust and that always means a
seriously good read.
There is probably nobody better placed than Sarah to write The Complete
Traditional Recipe Book. Besides food writing, she is a London
qualified Blue Badge Tourist Guide and she arranges London-based food
tours, on foot or with wheels, historic or otherwise. These have
included a walking tour in historic Southwark coupled with a visit to
Borough Market, in-depth visits to the Tudor kitchens of Hampton Court,
and a tour of the service quarters of Petworth House in Sussex.
Cookbooks are big business these days and there is the temptation to
change traditional recipes just to update them, to make them seem
modern and trendy. Perhaps we should consider that anything that has
been around long enough to be called “traditional” has lasted because
it was good to start with. Sarah has kept faith with the original
recipes and they are everything that you would expect.
This is the cookbook you will snuggle down with when it’s cold, wet and
windy (probably a Wednesday in August) and want some cheering. The
recipes are mouth-watering and unadulterated comfort. They are familiar
and the sorts of dishes our grandmothers would have made. Good tasty
fare with not a sniff of an over-boiled Brussels sprout.
Let me tempt you with some recipes! At last, a recipe for Haslet, a
delicious and simple loaf of pork, onion, sage and mace. Much tastier
than the shop-bought variety. Maids of Honour are scrumptious little
tarts (now, that sounds unkind!) which were originally baked at the
time of George II and Queen Caroline. But my very favourite is Homity
Pies. These lovelies are so flavourful that they would entice
card-carrying carnivores onto the path of vegetarianism... at least for
an afternoon.
The Complete Traditional Recipe Book even feels like an old-fashioned
quality cookbook. The pages are open and uncluttered. The recipes are
clear and straightforward and they work! You’ll buy this book for its
practical instruction and classic British food. I have a large
collection of cookbooks but this will be amongst the dozen or so that
stay in the kitchen.
The Complete Traditional Recipe Book
Author: Sarah Edington
Published by: Anova Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 10-190540042X
The Slow Food Story
Anyone who is at all concerned about the “Fast Life” and
“Fast Food”
will want to read this book. The Slow Food Story – Politics and
Pleasure is an in-depth look at the growing call for the moderation of
modern lifestyle. The Slow Food Movement was set up in Italy as a
response to the threat of fast food chains and supermarkets.
Fast Food is just a symptom of our craving for, or passive acceptance
of, a high-speed, unhealthy existence. In this book, author Geoff
Andrews sets the scene by quoting James Gleick, from his book Faster –
The Acceleration of Just About Everything: “... Remote controls: their
very existence, in the hands of a quick-reflexed, multi-tasking,
channel-flipping, fast-forwarding citizenry, has caused acceleration in
the pace of films and television commercials.”
It’s not possible to live a “successful” Fast Life without Fast Food.
The Slow Food Movement isn’t against all fast food but they promote the
concept of “slow fast food”. It has to do with sourcing of local
ingredients, with no environmental degradation. We should be able to
make choices that are healthy in food value as well as lifestyle.
Geoff presents the definition of the alternative to fast everything as
described by Wendy Parkins and Geoffrey Craig: “...Slow living is not a
return to the past, the good old days (pre McDonald’s arcadia), neither
is it a form of laziness, nor a slow-motion version of life, nor
possible only in romantic locations like Tuscany. Rather slow living is
a process whereby everyday life – in all its pace and complexity,
frisson and routine – is approached with care and attention...” Slot
food into that philosophy and you have an idea as to what this is all
about.
In The Slow Food Story Geoff Andrews offers us a positive option to the
down-hill spiral of modern life. This isn’t a backlash against those
golden arches but a suggestion that we need to take another look at
what we are doing. 2001 statistics show that 110 billion dollars (yes,
you heard right) was spent on fast food in the USA. That was more than
was spent on movies, books, magazines, newspapers, video and music
combined. Don’t you find that shocking?
It sounds like a heavy-weight subject but this is a well-written and
absorbing book and essential reading for anyone who worries about the
future and wants to do something about it.
The Slow Food Story – Politics and Pleasure
Author: Geoff Andrews
Published by: Pluto Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7453-2744-0
India’s Vegetarian
Cooking
How does this woman do it? Monisha Bharadwaj presents us
with the most
gorgeous books, each one more sumptuous than the last. The photography
of India by Jenner Zimmermann is stunning and the food photography by
Will Heap is almost edible.
India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a regional guide to some of the most
traditional and delectable recipes from every corner of the
subcontinent. You will recognise some of them that have become popular
restaurant fare but there are many more that will be new to most of us.
There are, in fact, over 130 dishes which typify so much that is fine
about Indian vegetarian cuisine.
India’s Vegetarian Cooking isn’t just a cookbook but it is liberally
laced with Monisha’s poetic prose which will add so much to your
understanding of the religious context, historic evolution and
ayurvedic perspective of food in India. The author has been lucky in
her choice of parents who encouraged their young daughter to try new
foods and to appreciate them in their unique regional setting.
Monisha Bharadwaj writes with passion and evident pride about her love
of all things culinary: “... my love of food and cooking developed. It
was almost like a bud opening into a flower, the myriad taste
sensations gradually becoming more and more distinct as I grew up.” Not
only is this lady a fabulous cook but her writing is rich, colourful
and evocative.... I think she models herself on me!
You’ll want to know a bit more about the food and I can tell you it’s
scrumptious. Whilst not being a fully certified vegetarian, I don’t eat
much meat and seldom eat red meat. These recipes would, however, entice
even the most committed meat-eater with their flavourful ingredients
and comforting textures. Each one is easy to follow and not expensive
to produce.
I am a big fan of lentils of all types and Tangy Lentils with Crisp
Bread (Dal Pakwan) is exceptional. But one of my all time favourites is
Potato and Garlic Balls Encased in Batter (Batata Vada). It’s typical
Mumbai street food with a lovely crisp outside and a soft tasty
interior. There are so many recipes here that deserve a mention...well,
probably 130 of them!
India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a “must have” for any lover of India and
her food but also for the discerning collector of cookbooks. This is a
classy book from a classy writer.
India’s Vegetarian Cooking
Author: Monisha Bharadwaj www.cookingwithmonisha.com
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-792-2
I Was a Potato Oligarch
What was this book about? To be honest the title didn’t
tell me much –
I Was a Potato Oligarch. Was it like being a Burger King? I knew what
an Oligarch was...er, well, OK, looked it up and it’s one of a small
number of individuals that run a state. So where does the humble spud
come into this?
Our author and hero is John Mole, who has the idea that money could be
made from fast food. It’s a popular trend in Russia and he was assured
that he would be able to set up a company to sell filled baked
potatoes, and would soon be reaping the benefits. Sounds simple, huh?
If it had been that easy this book would only have been a pamphlet and
not the funny story that it has turned out to be.
This writer has had extensive experience of dealing with people from
the former eastern bloc countries and I personally would not touch a
business partnership with a 10ft Volga boat pole. But John seems to be
a man who will have a go at almost anything and at least he has a great
book as reward for his adventure. And what an adventure!
We could be generous and describe the ordinary Russian as...um,
..unique. They have a particular perspective that has been born of
hardship and indoctrination. John seems to have been a gift to so many
of the more scheming sorts, and he was very naive. A kind-hearted chap,
he buys a postcard from a beautiful woman on the street. She says she
is a teacher and is looking after her invalid mother. He buys a map
from her and then she offers to spend the night with him. That’s one of
the sadder encounters, but most of the book is densely seeded with
chuckles.
“...A big-boned, middle-aged woman in an ankle-length black leather
coat and a Cossack fur hat, angular face and lidded black eyes and
purple lips and a single eyebrow from ear to ear, a villain from a
Marvel comic.” ...She was the doctor! Get the picture?
This is one of the most amusing travel books around. You don’t have to
know any ex-soviets to appreciate the hilarious corners that John
paints himself into...but if you have known any you will appreciate
that John isn’t exaggerating! A real good read!
I Was a Potato Oligarch
Author: John Mole
Published by: Nicholas Brealey Publishing
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-509-5
Calamity and Courage
Calamity and Courage – A Heroine of the Raj is another in
my collection
of fascinating books about India and all things
Indian that I love so much. It also gave me a surprise as the setting
for the aforementioned heroism is in fact the very part of India that
my father knew so well – a remote area near the border with Burma.
The author Belinda Morse is the great-granddaughter of the Victorian
artist John Hanson Walker, who exhibited the portrait of Ethel Grimwood
at the Royal Academy, and the search for that portrait is in itself an
interesting journey.
Calamity and Courage is the story of Ethel Grimwood and Manipur and
it’s a tragic tale of Government mismanagement and unnecessary loss of
life. It’s the kind of story that would make a romantic adventure film,
a cross between The Life of Florence Nightingale and The Far Pavilions.
There was a lot of family in-fighting around the court of the Maharaja
of Manipur which necessitated the resignation of one Maharaja and the
placement of another. The manipulation of events by the Indian
Government (British Government in India) seemed to have rocked lots of
boats, which led eventually to a massacre in 1891.
Ethel was marooned in the residence with a small force of armed men and
an increasing number of injured. It became evident that they would all
lose their lives if they stayed put so it was decided to start out
under fire to seek help, not only for themselves but for those officers
and men who were by that time held captive at the Maharaja’s palace.
After many days of hardship they were rescued by friendly forces and
conducted to safety. It was, however, many weeks till Ethel discovered
the fate of her husband and the other captives. The uprising against
the British was big news and Ethel was given recognition for her
service to the injured men. She was even invited to meet Queen Victoria
(who took a great interest in events in India) to be awarded the Red
Cross medal.
It seems that Ethel and her husband had a good relationship with the
Indian Princes who had treated them not only with polite courtesy but
with warm friendship and generosity. They seem to have been unwitting
victims of political infighting and both suffered for the prejudices of
those in authority.
Calamity and Courage is a book filled with Victorian attitudes but it
presents Ethel as a young woman with a bit of grit and loyalty to the
princes who were once so kind to her. An amazing read.
Calamity and Courage
Author: Belinda Morse
Published by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-215-1
The Wagamama Cookbook
This is the second Hugo Arnold Wagamama book that I have
come across,
the first being the gorgeous Wagamama – Ways with Noodles. I was
impressed by that book and I have an equally good impression of this
one. The photographs are almost edible and very stylish. Hugo is a
self-confessed greedy man but he has half a dozen books to his name so
he knows how to write a bit as well!
The whole Wagamama ethos is about simplicity and quality – quality not
only of ingredients but also of presentation. The Wagamama Cookbook has
a DVD attached and it leads you painlessly through the preparation of
several dishes and their cooking techniques.
Wagamama isn’t just about noodles, although they are famed for them.
The book introduces us to a whole host of dishes. There is plenty for
vegetarians as you would expect, but there’s meat and fish, salads and
side dishes, and even desserts.
A good example of a simple but punchy Wagamama recipe is Chicken Chilli
Men. It’s soba noodles with chicken, courgette, green pepper, onion,
spring onion. It’s the addition of the homemade chilli sauce that
elevates this dish into something a bit special. You don’t have to be a
master wok wielder to achieve a professional result.
Sake Amiyaki Gohan is grilled salmon with pak choi, ginger, oyster
sauce and steamed rice. A bit of grilling and a bit of woking and you
have a very smart dinner party dish. It looks very cheffy but it
couldn’t be easier. You don’t have to wait long for the food to arrive
in the Wagamama restaurants so you can assume that all the recipes here
are going to be quick meals to prepare, although you can choose to eat
them slowly!
There is a nice selection of exotic and original desserts. I figure
that it’s a good idea to have a dessert already done if you are
stir-frying for the main course. Lemongrass and Chilli Crème
Caramel with Sake and Star Anise fits the bill for me. It’s full of
subtle Asian flavour and just right to finish either a Chinese or
Japanese meal. Yummy!
The Daily Mail described The Wagamama Cookbook as “A must buy”. If you
want no-fuss healthy food then this could well become a favourite.
The Wagamama Cookbook
Author: Hugo Arnold
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-649-9
Meeting the Medicine
Men
This site is called Mostly Food Journal and the space that
isn’t food
will be filled with what I hope will interest and amuse you. Lots of
travel and social history, and items like this book that encompass
those topics and much more.
Charles Langley has written this most unique and fascinating book,
Meeting the Medicine Men – An Englishman’s Travels Among the Navajo. I
thought this might be a Victorian anthropological documentary and how
was I going to review a book like that! This is something far different.
Meeting the Medicine Men is the story of a chap from North London who,
via some ‘coincidences’, is introduced to the Navajo nation and, in
particular, to its Medicine Men. Yes, they do still exist and are very
much a part of Indian custom and culture. Although the next generation
don’t seem too interested, the more conservative Indians will naturally
seek out the help of the Medicine Men when western health treatment has
failed. They will trust that those same men will be able to recognise a
curse set by a rival family, and to destroy that curse.
New Mexico is a magical place but it’s the Navajo who are the
impressive element in this narrative. They are far from ‘The Noble
Savages’ that early historians would portray them as. They are regular
folks with a particular perspective. The Medicine Men allowed Charles
to participate in traditional religious rituals, and opened his eyes to
the possibility that there might be spiritual dimensions somewhat
different from the western concept.
Now, I can understand that you might just put that down to superstition
and to most westerners it all seems a bit far-fetched, but Charles
tells of his experiences and it’s enough to make you think! Yes, but
think what? That’s for every reader to make up his own mind but the
story is extraordinary and well worth reading.
We live in a technologically advanced world but even scientists agree
that there is so much that cannot be explained. It’s very easy to
accuse these Medicine Men of trickery but the author assures us that
events that he describes were exactly as he saw them and that sharp
practice would not have been possible. How, for example, could anybody
manage to find a small bundle of sticks and fur buried in the middle of
a desert?
It’s a riveting read and the book will raise questions in the minds of
the sceptical. On the other hand it gives confirming proof to those
that are convinced that the world is more complex and spiritual than
people imagine. I enjoyed this book very much and I suspect that you’ll
enjoy it just as much, whatever your personal conclusions might be.
Meeting the Medicine Men
Author: Charles Langley
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-507-1
The Edible Mushroom
Book
No, dear reader, this isn’t a book you can eat but it will
point you in
the direction of lots of lovely fungi which you can.
The Edible Mushroom Book – A Guide to Foraging and Cooking is a handy
yet chunky volume, just right to keep in the pocket of your Barbour
jacket. Anna Del Conte and Thomas Læssøe have produced an
attractive and useful tool for the free food gatherer.
Mushrooms can be a bit mysterious. They are often hard to find and it’s
sometimes ticklish to identify the mushrooms when you do find them.
Both France and Italy have staff at chemist’s shops who will sift
through your collection and tell you if they are all safe to eat. I
suspect that the girl behind the counter at Boots might not be quite so
helpful. (Oi, Doris, there’s a bloke ’ere askin’ if we know about ’is
mushrooms!)
Fine illustrations are always a welcome addition to cookbooks, but
these are not only lovely pictures, they might save your life. Mushroom
hunting isn’t like collecting bluebells. You are going to eat these
things and they might kill you if you don’t take precautions. It’s a
sobering thought but it’s best to be armed with all the facts before
you embark on this most serious of undertakings.
The book is divided in two, and the first part, logically, deals with
identification and collection. There must be every kind of mushroom
listed, as well as a collection of Poisonous Fungi, which I would keep
bookmarked! There are, however, far more edible specimens than there
are killer varieties, so the chances of you falling upon a real nasty
are slight.
The second section is devoted to the recipes and they look scrumptious!
Beef Steak in Mushroom Sauce is a tasty example that uses a mixture of
wild mushrooms with robust flavours. Warm Salad of Oyster Mushrooms is
tangy and light, with anchovies and vinegar. What could be nicer on a
hot day, possibly served with some crusty bread and a glass of red?
This book is indispensible for anyone who is even considering
collecting mushrooms from the wild. It can be a fun and healthy pastime
but it’s not a game!
The Edible Mushroom Book
Authors: Anna Del Conte and Thomas Læssøe
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-40533-213-2
Fabulous Food
OK Magazine has described Sophie Michell as ‘The Culinary
Princess’ and
she has indeed packed a lot into her career and she is still a
youngster.
Sophie’s love of cooking started at the age of three when she would
play with her toy cooker; by ten she was baking her own cakes and by
fourteen she was a professional.
Sophie moved to London and studied at Butler’s Wharf Chef School for
her Advanced Chef Diploma. She then went to work in some of the
capital’s best restaurants, including The Greenhouse, The Lanesborough,
and The Embassy.
She competed in, and won, numerous competitions which resulted in her
being nominated, at the age of 19, for The Craft Guild of Chefs ‘Young
Chef of the Year’ Award. Not too shabby!
Fabulous Food – Sexy Recipes for Healthy Living is the full title. It’s
a pretty book with attractive typefaces and superb photographs by Chris
Alack. The dishes look wonderful and the added bonus is that they are
healthy.
Sophie has a passion for good food (perhaps we all should) and has
first-hand experience of both weight and health issues. She read a pile
of diet books that all gave a negative message that weight loss meant
unpleasant food. If you’re going to stick to a regimen you’ll need food
that you’ll look forward to eating.
This book will make you smile. Sophie has a chatty style that’s full of
humour. The chapter headings give you an idea of what’s in store:
Social Butterfly, Quick Fixes to fit into that Little Black Dress, but
the most fun is Turn up the Heat!
This doesn’t seem like diet food. It’s smart and tasty stuff and you
could easily eat it for every meal and not feel like you deserve a
medal. The Vine-leaf Wrapped Chicken with Ricotta, Pine Nut and Mint
Stuffing is a lovely example of a dish that looks spectacular, is easy
to execute and won’t break the bank.
Banana Strudel with Chocolate Sauce is bound to be a winner. Sophie
tells us that dark chocolate contains antioxidants! For that fact
alone, Sophie, I am truly indebted!
Fabulous Food – Sexy Recipes for Healthy Living is an attractive and
well written book that you’ll want to own... or give to a special
someone.
Fabulous Food
Author: Sophie Michell
Published by: Sphere (Little, Brown Book Group)
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84744-211-6
Spain Body and Soul
This is another remarkable book from those nice people at
Haus
Publishing. This is truly quality food writing, travel writing, poetic
writing, and thoroughly absorbing and charming.
The author H M van den Brink isn’t famed for his food writing but he is
nevertheless famed for writing. He published his first book in1993 but
had huge success with On the Water in 1998 which was translated into
numerous languages and won several literary prizes including the
Independent Foreign Fiction Prize.
Spain Body and Soul isn’t a cookbook but it does have some delicious
traditional recipes for dishes such as Chicken with Garlic, and
Hazelnut Cake. It’s more a book about a Dutch journalist living in
Spain and observing life and attitudes. H M van den Brink describes
himself as an eater so he pays attention to meals, eating habits and
culinary culture.
Perhaps the recipe for Bread with Tomato is the quintessential Spanish
dish. It is, in truth, hardly a dish or a recipe but a flavourful
preparation of soft and sun-drenched tomatoes crushed into a piece of
bread. A drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt complete this
little slice of simple gastronomic heaven.
I could fill pages with quotes from this superb volume. When writing of
something as banal as Churros (long, thin, deep-fried doughnuts) H M
van den Brink writes... “Eaten immediately, hot, they are like most
sins: no less sinful in the heat of the moment than considered in
hindsight, and in any case irresistible.” It’s enough to fill this
writer with literary self-doubts and the urge to throw away her
computer!
H M van den Brink paints marvellous landscapes with his words. Always
well chosen, they describe scenery as well as could any travelogue.
You’ll seek out the dishes he describes and thumb through a few of
these pages as you sit in a cafe drinking a very small, very black
coffee. If you are planning a trip to Spain then consider Spain Body
and Soul as your companion.
Spain Body and Soul
Author: H M van den Brink
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £10.39
ISBN 1-904950-79-5
Recipe Scrapbook
This has got to be a thoughtful gift for anyone who loves
cooking,
recipes and collecting. It might just be called a “Scrapbook” but this
is a sumptuous volume that might even become an heirloom!
There are sixteen wallets which are double-sided giving thirty-two
different sections covering desserts, fruit, meat, pasta and any
culinary heading you can think of. The idea is that you collect recipes
from magazines, friends and family and you use the wallets to store
them and keep them in order. There’s plenty of space so it’ll take you
a while to fill.
Caroline Brewester has given you a start to your collection by
including 80 delicious and international recipes. The Fish wallet
offers five recipes, four of which are printed in the scrapbook, the
fifth a very realistic “airmail letter” with a recipe for Grouper. The
“letter” comes from Lebanon where a friend is taking a holiday. Several
other wallets contain similar letters or pre-printed postcards with
recipes. These cards are handy as you can, if you want, send them to
friends.
The Recipe Scrapbook is made of good quality card and has sturdy
binding. It’s not a flimsy notebook and its photo album size means that
it’s not going to get lost amongst your regular cookbooks. If you take
the time to collect your own recipes you’ll soon find that you have
compiled the best cookbook in the world, unique to you and every recipe
a winner!
Recipe Scrapbook
Author: Caroline Brewester
Published by: Duncan Baird Publishers
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-84483-694-9
Chinese Food Made Easy
Ching-He Huang is a fresh and youthful face which might be
new to those
of you who have missed her cooking demonstrations on UKTV Food. She now
enjoys a bit more well-earned exposure on BBC2 with a series called
Chinese Food Made Easy. If you love the programmes (and who wouldn’t?)
then you’ll want this sumptuous book. But who is this young lady?
Ching was born in Taiwan but moved first to South Africa and finally to
the UK. Her parents ran a business and her mum was often overseas, so
Ching took the responsibility for feeding the family. She was soon
preparing all kinds of Chinese foods incorporating Yin and Yang – the
Chinese philosophy of balance and harmony.
As a teenager, Ching’s creativity encouraged her to have a stab at
acting. But after three years of living on the breadline and
successfully completing a degree in Economics, she began thinking about
earning some money.
What better idea than to start her own food company and that was the
birth of Fuge (pronounced 'fugee', and means “well-being” in Mandarin).
Ching’s products can now be found at retailers such as the Whistlestop
chain and in foodservice outlets. She has also provided the salads at
the Chelsea Flower Show and Wimbledon, as well as supplying a number of
blue-chip companies in the City.
Fuge was followed by the launch of Tzu ( pronounced “ta-zu”), a healthy
soft drinks range, which is now stocked in prestigious outlets such as
Harrods, Selfridges, Fresh and Wild, as well as luxury hotels and
health spas.
Ching was given a cookery series on the UKTV Food Channel at the
beginning of 2005 called Ching’s Kitchen. Gareth Williams, Channel
Executive, UKTV Food, said “She’s refreshing, entertaining, beautiful
and above all makes fantastic food!" In autumn 2006, Ching launched her
first cookbook, “China Modern”, which features over 100 recipes.
OK so that’s Ching, but how about the book? Chinese Food Made Easy is
divided into eight chapters with scrumptious titles such as Dumplings,
Dim Sum and Street Food. Yumm! The photographs are by the celebrated
Kate Whitaker and they are a delight. The recipes are clear and simple
and Ching gives some extra handy tips and serving suggestions.
The food is mouth-watering and I’ll be happy to eat my way through this
book. Spiced Beef Stir-fry from the Muslim part of western China is a
bit different from the typical Chinese dishes, as it uses cumin. You’ll
probably already have all the other ingredients. Such an easy recipe
but delicious.
Ching has included a selection of side dishes and these will enable you
to compose a whole Chinese meal, and with that in mind there’s a menu
planner with ideas for a New Year Party, Romantic Dinner (ahh), a menu
for kids, and other suggestions.
There is no need to feel anxious if you are a Chinese-cooking virgin.
There is everything here that you’ll need to help you cook lovely
meals. Ching talks you through the cooking techniques, tools of the
trade and store cupboard ingredients.
Chinese Food made Easy is inspired by a tradition and culture that has
always valued the thoughtful preparation of food. These are healthy
dishes that are truly easy. Get the wok out this weekend!
Chinese Food Made Easy
Author: Ching-He Huang (www.chinghe.com)
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726498-8
My Mercedes is Not
for Sale
You know, dear reader, that I spend lots of time looking
for books that
might inspire, amuse or educate you. My Mercedes is
Not for Sale by Jeroen van Bergeijk is one of those books that I hope
will do all of the above but will probably also have the dubious
additions of filling you with fear, irritation and a dose of shock.
Let’s make one thing clear. I am not saying that Jeroen’s book is
irritating, but his travels present him with people who I at least
would love to smack. It’s an edgy adventure so it was on the cards that
he would encounter the seedy sorts... and he did, at almost every turn.
It’s compelling reading that will keep you turning the pages. The plan
is to buy an old Mercedes in Amsterdam and resell it in a far-off
African state. To this end our hero finds a 1988 Mercedes 190 D (this
will mean something to some of you) with 220,000 km on the clock
(probably one lady owner who only used it to go to church?). His trip
takes him from the relative safety of Holland through Morocco and
across the Sahara.
If you consider travelling to the less civilised African countries then
I suggest you arm yourself with this book. You can start to read it on
the flight over and finish it on the next flight back! Second-hand cars
are big business in Africa and there is indeed money to be made but you
will have to bear in mind that you’ll be keeping company with guys that
would cut your throat for thrupence. It’s a game for the strong and
savvy. If Jeroen had been either of those he would have had a less
“exciting” trip.
This is a rollicking read and a real Boys’ Own adventure of danger,
privation and sandstorms that scour the paint off your car quicker than
you can say illegal drugs... Oh, I forgot to mention drug smuggling!
My Mercedes is Not for Sale
Author: Jeroen van Bergeijk
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-515-6
Cooking in a Bedsitter
“The famous book – in print for over 40 years”. This must
be the
cookbook equivalent of The Mousetrap (handy in the old-fashioned
bedsit). Katherine Whitehorn
has written this little gem
which could be retitled “My First Cookbook”.
My young or foreign (from outside the UK) readers might not even know
what a bedsitter was. Yes, it was someone who sat on a bed, that being
mostly the only place to sit, but it was also the name given to the
room, a combination of bedroom and sitting-room. Large Victorian houses
were divided into single-room accommodation. There was a shared
bathroom and almost never access to a real kitchen.
Katherine produced this book to aid all those who only had a single gas
ring and no fridge. Although she has the bedsit in mind this volume
works just as well for anyone who needs to cook quick and easy meals.
You might have a full-sized range with an extractor that rises at the
back like the organ in a 1930 cinema, but it will do you no good if you
don’t know how to boil an egg!
Cooking in a Bedsitter will shepherd you through every cooking
technique and every ingredient that might cross your path. The recipes
are simple and you’ll have no problem with any of them. It’s a book
that has stood the test of time, so be trusting.
There is a classic recipe for Frying Pan Pizza. It sounds a bit odd but
it’s real comfort food. The base is almost scone-like and the kids will
love it. They will also love the Jam Fritters but probably not
after the Pizza! There is a section on meals which can be made the day
before, and a chapter on drinks and parties which has the cost of
providing booze for four people as £1 4s.6d. (£1.22).
That’s utter nostalgia, and charming.
These are not daft recipes. They all work and all of them (OK, not the
tripe) would be delicious. It’s written with Katherine’s unique wit
shining through. It’s not just for bedsit dwellers but for anyone short
of space or money. This would be a godsend on a camping trip or in
student flats. A great book, thanks Katherine.
Cooking in a Bedsitter
Author: Katherine Whitehorn
Published by: Virago Press
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-84408-568-2
East Meets West
This is a celebrity charity cookbook and supports the 2004
earthquake
and tsunami victims. It has a whole host of “big names” but perhaps the
names that you might not recognise are of the two women who deserve the
most thanks and praise.
Barbara Jayson lived for many years in South East Asia and whilst
living in Indonesia started a charity called The Foundation for Mother
and Child Care. She was awarded an MBE for her work in Indonesia in
2004. Jenny de Montfort was born in Sri Lanka and grew up in Nigeria
and Cameroon. Whilst living in Indonesia she and a friend compiled a
successful cookbook for charity which inspired this book.
It does your heart good to know that people will devote time to help
others when disaster strikes. Nigella Lawson was one of the first to
pitch in, but food and wine writers, photographers, PAs and publishers
all did their bit to produce a book that the public would really want
to buy. This book is the tangible proof of their success.
The list of celebrated chefs, cooks and worthies is long but you’ll see
who they all are when you buy the book so I’ll just pick a few recipes
that I know my dear reader will enjoy.
Anton Edelmann offers Baked Figs with Goats Cheese and Coriander Salad.
This is a real fusion dish and that is the theme for these recipes.
It’s the combination of East and West that produces something special.
Bill Granger has donated his scrumptious recipe for Coconut Pancakes
with Banana and Passion Fruit Syrup. You know how easy pancakes are but
Bill gives these a tropical twist.
Gennaro Contaldo is a chap I know to be generous with his time so it’s
no surprise to see him here. His contribution is a tangy Orange and
Fennel Salad. Refreshing and light.
I must include Nigella Lawson as she was kind enough to get the ball
rolling and she must have many calls on her time. Thai Crumbled Beef in
Lettuce Wraps is very Forever Summer... er, the recipe is even if the
weather isn’t!
This is a gorgeous fusion cookbook with impressive authors. You’ll buy
East Meets West because it’s a great book and you’ll have the
satisfaction of knowing that others will be getting something they need
as well.
East Meets West
Authors: Various
Published by: Accent Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-905170-02-5
Japanese Pure and
Simple
It’s fair to say that Kimiko Barber is the undisputed
queen of Japanese
cooking in the UK, and this book is just another illustration of why.
Japanese Pure and Simple has over 100 health-giving recipes that are
simple and flavourful and a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The
photographs by Jan Baldwin are gorgeous, giving the large format book
an overall feel of elegance.
Kimiko presents Japanese food as nourishing, balanced and seasonal. The
fresh ingredients are tinkered with as little as possible to retain
nutrients and texture. There is evidently something to be said for that
philosophy as the Japanese have the highest life expectancy in the
world.
The recipes are divided into various categories such as Soup, Fish,
Poultry, Rice etc and they are a marvellous selection, but my favourite
dishes are the Japanese Hotpots. These take fondue to new heights of
sophistication and have the advantage of being good for you. There is
the usual process of cooking raw meats and veggies in a stock but then
you are left with a richer and more flavourful broth than you started
with. Anyone who has a little space at the end of the Hotpot can finish
that broth with the addition of rice or noodles.
Teriyaki dishes are always popular. They are easy to prepare and have
that sweet rich flavour that is irresistible. Teriyaki Pork Steak is
one of those dishes that you’ll make often as either part of a Japanese
meal or served with western vegetables or salads. The ingredients are
easy to find and not expensive, and once the sauce is made you can keep
it for a while in the fridge. It works equally well with lamb chops but
I love it with chicken breasts.
The Japanese are renowned for the exquisite presentation of food and
Kimiko has thoughtfully given us some pointers. You don’t need to
invest in new crockery although I think that a small Sake flask and
cups adds a hint of authenticity. Use your usual plates but don’t pile
on the food, rather create landscapes with plenty of space and artful
use of garnish. Very Zen!
Kimiko Barber writes books that are full of advice to enable you to
prepare truly beautiful but healthy food with surprising ease. Choose
the freshest produce and enjoy these delightful dishes.
Japanese Pure and Simple
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-665-6
Damascus – Taste of a
City
This is a long way from your usual travel guide or
cookbook but it
encompasses elements of both. Damascus – Taste of a City is, in fact, a
phone conversation between brother and sister, he being exiled in
Germany and she walking through the streets of their beloved Damascus.
They say that when a man has lived seven years in Damascus, Damascus
lives in him. Rafik Schami lived in Damascus for twenty-five years so
his very soul yearns for the city. He was offered the chance to write a
book about a culinary walk through the streets he knew so well, but how
was he going to manage that when he couldn’t return to Damascus?
Rafik’s sister Marie Fadel came to the rescue with an audacious plan to
collect all the information via the telephone. She would interview
family and friends, collect the recipes and test them before passing
them to her brother. Rafik would do the translating and turn all those
notes into a book.
This is a true step by step guide to Damascus but through the eyes of
an insider. We meet neighbours, friends and family. There is a
favourite chicken recipe from an aunt, a lentil soup recipe from the
family around the corner, and so the tour continues, each encounter
punctuated by delicious food and generous hospitality.
One has the impression that we are eavesdropping on this conversation
but it’s fascinating. Maria reminds Rafik of school friends, of cakes
eaten, of kibbeh cooked on Sundays and of times spent together. She
describes her route in meticulous detail and points out, more for our
benefit than her brother’s, historic buildings and places of interest.
We can follow on the map and imagine ourselves walking beside Maria as
she chats on the phone.
Each alley has a story of tragedy, of courage and of fortitude. We meet
people that have had to endure so much but manage to live life with
grace and good humour. The recipes, however tasty, seem to fade in
importance when compared to the human element of this very personal
travelogue.
We are at the end of our walk. Maria returns home but she decides to
ring exiled Rafik one more time. She falls silent and holds the phone
to the city. It’s the background noise that we all take for granted but
it’s the noise of home, of memories, of family. If you keep a dry eye
through those last pages you are made of stronger stuff than I.
Damascus – Taste of a City
Authors: Marie Fadel and Rafik Schami
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £12.99
ISBN 1-904950-3-2
Fish Indian Style
Chef and restaurateur Atul Kochhar is one of the better
known Asian
faces on food TV in the UK. His restaurant, Benares, holds a Michelin
star and he has recently opened another two restaurants. I think we can
safely conclude that Atul understands food.
This is a sumptuous book with wonderful photographs by
David Loftus who
shows off Atul’s dishes to best advantage but also adds striking
close-ups of the stars of this book, the fish.
Although a fish eater, I must admit that it is, more often than not,
bland. Chefs will try and persuade you that the lack of taste should be
considered as “delicate”. But many of us prefer more robust flavours
that if well chosen can enhance fish, and Atul has chosen well.
Fish Indian Style offers over one hundred superb and unique recipes for
all kinds of fish and seafood. Most of the dishes have several
alternatives to suit the seasons. Trout might be substituted for
salmon, sea bass or sea bream. Atul has recipes for every occasion and
for every taste.
Fish isn’t cheap so it’s good to be able to be flexible. There are all
kinds of fish, from the pricey for when you feel like pushing the
(fishing) boat out, to cheaper choices like mackerel which is so often
overlooked. Lobster might be beyond you at the end of the month but you
could substitute prawns.
Indian food is a great love of mine and these recipes don’t disappoint.
The food of the subcontinent isn’t always fiery hot but is often
aromatic and subtle. Atul’s ingredients marry well to produce delicious
dishes that are both exotic and simple. The spices are not expensive
and you’ll probably already have them to hand.
There are quite a few recipes here that I would consider outstanding.
Chilli-fried potted shrimps, which is a rework of a British classic,
and Crayfish Samosas, which is a new take on an Indian classic. They
are both simple recipes but produce lovely results for starters or even
an Anglo-Indian brunch or supper buffet. Konkani Fish Curry in a Spicy
Coconut Sauce is perhaps one of my (many) favourites. Its combinations
of spices and coconut typify the flavours of Indian cuisine, and this
is a traditional recipe.
Fish Indian Style will be well received by those of us who want to do
more with fish. It’s an exceptional book with inspiring ideas that will
encourage you to experiment...and probably to eat more fish!
Fish Indian Style
Author: Atul Kochhar
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781904573838
The City of London
Cookbook
This is one of those charity books with various
contributors that I
love so much. The charity in question was the Lord Mayor’s Appeal 2006:
The Treloar Centenary Appeal for disabled children. The
contributions
from this book will still be added to the fund.
Peter Gladwin has a scrumptious collection of his own
recipes and those
of other chefs and even the odd Royal... er, sorry Sir, not at all odd,
and... um, thank you for the recipe! They are a lovely selection of
dishes that encompass the cheffy and the traditional, but all of them
could be made at home with no need to rent the Mansion House kitchens
for the evening.
The City of London Cookbook is also a history illustrated with witty
anecdotes and it’s worth buying the book for those alone. Sophia Loren
was gracious enough to admit “Everything you see I owe to spaghetti”.
We also get the insider’s view of international figures: it seems like
American politicians have a limited dining culture. They don’t eat
seafood in shells, fish with bones or chicken attached to carcasses. If
you can’t eat the meal with just a fork then it goes back!
If you love London and especially the City then you will appreciate the
tales of ancient tradition, some of which have lasted 700 years. The
first one we come across is the Sheriff’s Breakfast. Sounds a bit like
a pre-hanging scene from an old western but it’s the breakfast that the
Sheriff is obliged to offer the Aldermen of the City. It’s held on
Michaelmas Eve at 8am and Samuel Pepys wrote of it in 1660. The menu in
those days was a bit different, comprising such “tempting” dishes as
mutton pottage and collar of brawn, to be washed down with ale and
chocolate!
Rick Stein was asked by Alderman David Brewer to create a recipe for
his Lord Mayor’s Banquet. Crab Florentine was Rick’s culinary response
and Peter had the task of preparing 800 to be served simultaneously.
OK, so you do need a big kitchen for that!
This is a fascinating and fun book and thoroughly enjoyable. It would
make a wonderful gift for a foodie, tourist or Londoner - and it’s in a
good cause.
The City of London Cookbook
Author: Peter Gladwin
Published by: Accent Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1905170388
Persia in Peckham
Just the title was enough to get me turning the pages. Has
it got
something to do with Continental Drift? No, this is simply one of the
best reads around, and it’s not even been penned by a famous food
celeb, columnist or chef.
Sally Butcher has a husband who is Iranian and they own Persepolis in
Peckham, South London (a shop that sells all manner of exotica, and
which I fully intend to visit). When you find a husband you get the
in-laws as well, and Sally is lucky that hers are truly a bonus. This
book draws upon cultural heritage and culinary savvy to create a
smile-inducing mix of recipes and stories.
This is a chunky volume illustrated with sketches and Arabic script.
The recipes are for the most part simple, and different from the
typical Middle Eastern ones that I am familiar with. Sally provides
each one with some background information and often a funny comment.
This is heart-warming stuff even if you can’t cook a whisk’s worth.
Persia in Peckham is full of recipes that I intend to steal! Not all of
those included in this book are Iranian because Sally has thoughtfully
added some dishes from her customers who hail from Somalia,
Afghanistan, Greece and the West Indies. Perhaps that’s what London is
all about.
I love the chapter on Pickles and Preserves, which offers such delights
as Quince Jam with Cardamom, and Persepolis Special Torshi, which is a
sour pickle. The Casseroles section has a host of delicious dishes but
one of my favourites is Chicken and Aubergine Boats, full of warming
spices and tangy pickle.
The recipe that I will not only steal but pass off as my own is
Persimmons Filled with Spiced Cheese. This would be an exotic end to
Iranian or Indian meals, being sweet with a hint of spice and lemon.
The cheese in question isn’t a lump of cheddar or Danish Blue but
creamy fromage frais. You’ll need to buy the book for the full recipe
and you won’t have wasted your money.
I very much hope that Persia in Peckham is nominated for some award or
other. It has already been selected as Cookbook of the Year 2007 by the
Sunday Times. Sally deserves some recognition as a funny and uplifting
writer. Well done, that girl!
Persia in Peckham
Author: Sally Butcher
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1903018514
A Little Maple
Syrup Cookbook
This
is just one in the series from Appletree Press in Belfast and these
Little Cookbooks are little gems. They are a handy size and would
make the most lovely of gifts for any budding cook. You’ll have to look
at the Appletree Press site for a full list of their titles but you’ll
find that there are lots of them and many published in not only English
but French and several other languages.
This book is just so charming with illustrations by Susan David that
complement the recipes so well. And those recipes are mouth-watering.
If you have never tasted Maple Syrup then you are missing a treat. It’s
like brown sugar but with a richer, more distinct flavour. The real
stuff isn’t cheap but you’ll find it’s worth the price.
Easy Baked Cinnamon Toast is...well, easy! Imagine a cinnamon bread and
butter pudding but without the butter. This would be a stunner as part
of a breakfast for a crowd and you don’t have to watch the grill or
keep loading the toaster!
This is without a doubt my favourite Maple Syrup recipe: French
Canadian Maple Syrup Pie is sweet and delicious and you only need as
small serving (it says here). It’s another simple recipe but memorable
and if you try it you will make it often.
These might be Little Cookbooks but they are impressive. I am tempted
to collect the whole list!
A Little Maple Syrup Cookbook
Authors: Cynthia Cousins and Karen King
Published by: Appletree Press www.appletree.ie
Price: £4.99
ISBN 0-86281-623-8