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Updated 11th September 2009

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Cooking from the Heart of Spain

Janet Mendel is an American-born journalist and food writer who has penned several other books about the food of Spain. My Kitchen in Spain was winner of the Andre Simon Award and was short-listed for the Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year award. I have already reviewed Traditional Spanish Cooking, Janet’s other book.

Cooking from the Heart of Spain is the title but where exactly is the heart of Spain? Well, it’s
Cooking from the Heart of Spain La Mancha and although you might not be able to stick a pin in a map and hit right upon it, I don’t doubt that you would have heard of its produce... and Don Quixote.

La Mancha is a region that encompasses cities such as Toledo, Cuenca, Ciudad Real and Guadalajara. Unless you have travelled away from the Costas you probably wouldn’t realise that the REAL Spain in all its culinary glory lays waiting for you. Manchego cheese (wonderful served with quince paste), saffron, and Serrano ham are the products of this area along with wine and olive oil. In short, the foods we think of as typically Spanish are probably from La Mancha.

Janet shares nearly 200 recipes that give a flavour of all that the Heart of Spain has to offer, everything from tapas to desserts. Almost every recipe has a foreword which charmingly gives the cultural context to the dish. Cooking from the Heart of Spain is not only a cookbook but also a guide to food and its place in Spanish society.

The recipes have the solid and rustic feel of seasonal dishes. They are simple to prepare from ingredients that are readily available in the high street. Spanish Potato Tortilla has long been a favourite in tapas bars but it makes a substantial and cheap family lunch. Tortilla with Artichokes and Ham is another version that might be more appropriate for a smart meal with friends. A recipe that is both posh and rustic, if that is not an oxymoron.

Spain has winter and cold weather, so it’s no surprise to find such a fine collection of warming soups and One-Pot Meals. La Mancha is also the heart of garlic country, and Garlic Soup is said to be a good hangover cure, although Don Quixote’s advice to his companion Sancho Panza is...”Don’t eat garlic or onions, so that they don’t take you for a peasant.” Glad we are more enlightened these days because Janet also recommends the Double Garlic Soup!

Cooking from the Heart of Spain has dishes suitable for every occasion and with so many fish and vegetable recipes, this is a book with broad appeal. There is so much more to Spanish food than Paella, and Janet Mendel acts as a guide through delicious and authentic alternatives.


Cooking from the Heart of Spain
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2873-3
mostly food journal

Complete Indian Cooking

You might not know the name Meena Pathak but I am sure you know her products. Pataks is the name of the company she has helped to prominence, and those little jars and packets are in every supermarket both in the UK and around the world. The distinctive labels indicate quality foods that have a good reputation with home cooks.Complete Indian Cooking

Meena trained in food technology and hotel management with the prestigious Taj hotel group. Combine that with a passion for food and you have a recipe (sorry for the pun) for culinary success. She has, in fact, packaged her talents and sold them on to the general public, but Complete Indian Cooking is about cooking from scratch with hardly a jar to be seen.

There are over 180 recipes in this volume which is really two books in one: Flavours of India and Indian Cooking for Family and Friends. Meena does not assume that you are a seasoned Indian cook so she introduces us to India’s Culinary Traditions, Favourite Ingredients, Cooking Tips and Kitchen Equipment.

The food is mouthwatering. I have a love of Indian food and I’ll enjoy eating my way through much of this book. The photography by John Freeman is first class, showing both the food and Meena to best advantage. It’s a large format book with great visual appeal and is a marvellous showcase for Meena’s food.

The recipes are broad-based and offer plenty of choice for both vegetarians and meat eaters. The meat of choice is, unsurprisingly, lamb but there are fish dishes aplenty as well as sweets. The recipes are easy to follow and are, for the most part, simple to prepare. The key to success is the combination of spices. There are no complicated cooking techniques and you’ll already have the kitchen equipment.

There are some stunning dishes here. Prawn Balichow is a favourite relish but I have only ever tasted the commercial varieties. This isn’t difficult to make and it’s lovely as part of a starter or buffet. Devilled Prawns would be a delicious alternative.

The chapter called Rice, Bread and Accompaniments has some lovely dips. Coriander and Mint Raita will be familiar to restaurant goers, as is Sabzi Raita served with Biryani. Lentils with Cream and Butter is real comfort food, rich and unctuous, so eat this with just rice or bread... not white sliced though.

Complete Indian Cooking is a book to use. It’s attractive and sumptuous but it would be a shame to keep it anywhere but the kitchen.


Complete Indian Cooking
Author: Meena Pathak
Published by: New Holland
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-84773-159-3
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Chinese Cookery – Ken Hom

This is the 25th anniversary edition of Ken’s original and ground-breaking book. I had that first edition, and it fell apart through years of use. I am sure that many readers will have had the same experience. This is a book you will use even if you are too young to remember the BBC series that helped launch Ken Hom onto the UK food scene. It’s already a classic and it’s not difficult to see why.
Chinese Cookery – Ken Hom
Ken was the first Chinese chef/cook/food presenter to make a real impact in the UK. Kenneth Lo had long been respected as a promoter of Chinese food in Britain, but Ken Hom had a TV series that coincided with renewed interest in cooking and all things foodie. This slightly nervous young man presented entertaining and fascinating programmes that introduced Chinese food to a country that was ready to accept new flavours and the excitement of frying with a wok with the gas turned high. We started to find Chinese ingredients in high street shops and a quick stir-fry seemed more appealing than a time-consuming roast.

Chinese Cookery is a book welcomed by those new to Chinese cooking and those who are well practised in that cuisine. Ken offers a wealth of information about ingredients, equipment, menu planning and technique, and then it’s on to the food which is marvellous. There are some additions to the first edition so now there is a selection of dishes that encompass both traditional family cooking and also some contemporary innovations.

I am not sure that Ken Hom has a “signature dish” but I have my favourites. Chicken Pieces in Black Bean Sauce is a recipe that is simple but delicious. The black beans are salty and tangy and they give the chicken a unique flavour that I have found to be quite addictive.  Cold Spicy Noodles are comforting and rich. I use peanut butter although Ken says that sesame paste is equally good. These noodles are so easy to prepare and it’s truly a meal in moments. If you don’t really like cooking you will love this one.

OK, so the TV series was well-timed but it’s the quality of Ken Hom’s work that has allowed him to stay at the top of his profession. Chinese Cookery has endured because the recipes still reflect modern tastes. Timeless!


Chinese Cookery
Author: Ken Hom
Published by: BBC Books
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84-6076-053


Best British DishesBest British Dishes

Marguerite Patten is surely the most celebrated cook and food writer in Britain. She is probably the most respected by her fellow professionals, who would all be familiar with her recipes, skill and passion for food. Marguerite serves as a model for those who truly care about British cooking. She remains an icon because her work is solid and she has paid her dues at the altar of hard work.

This is a collection of, as the lady says, the Best British Dishes and there are over 400 of them. I am sure the cynics will be surprised at that number but we have outstanding food within these isles. This amazing lady has penned over 170 books which have mostly concentrated on traditional dishes. It’s thanks to her that there are still chefs and cooks who are not ashamed to present a home-grown bill of fare.

Best British Dishes has classic recipes. They are not dull and flavourless as the aficionados of all things foreign would suggest. We have a history of using spices and strong condiments such as mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Our vegetables can be good quality and we have an amazing choice of cheeses which feature to good effect in this volume.

It’s difficult to pick favourite dishes from this book. There is so much here that transports me to my own first attempts at cooking. Cornish Splits are sweet rolls filled with clotted cream and jam. These make a lovely alternative to scones for a traditional afternoon tea. Eccles Cakes are another delicious treat which dates back to the reign of Elizabeth I and probably before. These are a cross between a pie and a cake and I think they are quite unique, as is Bread Pudding. This is the old-fashioned Bread Pudding (rather than the much lighter Bread and Butter Pudding more frequently offered today) which is rib-sticking and substantial and often baked by my grandmother who had a large brood of ever-hungry children to feed.

Marguerite will be introducing a new generation to the delights of home-made Cornish Pasties, real Lancashire Hotpot, Black Pudding with Apples (that’s a “must try”), Beef Wellington (expensive but memorable), Kedgeree for breakfast, and Fish Cakes which are elevated to near-luxury when made with salmon. I could go on but suffice it to say Best British Dishes is a veritable treasury of temping foods that seem to be sadly overlooked these days.

Jamie Oliver says “What a wonderful book that celebrates the fantastic, historical diversity of cooking in Britain.” Best British Dishes is a book typical of the charm and quality of Marguerite Patten’s writing. One of the best British cookbooks around. Delightful!


Best British Dishes
Author: Marguerite Patten
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-23-2
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A Delicious Way to Earn a Living

This is a collection of the food writing of the late and great Michael Bateman who has been recognised as the first of the modern investigative food journalists. A Delicious Way to Earn a Living

Michael started writing in the 1960s when food wasn’t the trendy subject it is today. There was little interest in the media apart from the occasional fright from contaminated corned beef. It’s perhaps an illustration of the lack of interest in food at that time that it was the banal corned beef that caused the scare rather than soft French Cheese or lobster.

Michael Bateman was Food Editor of the Independent on Sunday from its launch in 1989 till his untimely death in 2006, although he worked for lots of publications throughout his long and illustrious career including the Shields Gazette, Daily Herald, Daily Mail and many others. His books include Cooking People (no, it’s not about cannibalism, it’s a book of interviews with prominent figures from the world of food), and Good Enough to Eat, a study of food safety and nutrition which was shortlisted for the prestigious Andre Simon Award.

A Delicious Way to Earn a Living is a marvellous book of food writing from this man who was so very popular and respected. He was popular because he was good and he was good because he was writing about a subject for which he had a passion. Michael was cooking curry before it was Britain’s favourite food, and Paella before most people had even heard of it.

The articles are informative, accessible and amusing. He discusses the new (at that time) interest in vegetarianism. “Now, you wouldn’t call Ted Ray or Leo Tolstoy cranks would you? Or Pete Murray and Mahatma Gandhi. Or John Peel and Buddha.....?” That article is a witty testament to the passage of time, but names that are current are also represented. Sophie Grigson has an item all to herself and she obviously charmed Michael, who remarks upon her punkish hair and junk (I wouldn’t call them junk) earrings.

A Delicious Way to Earn a Living will introduce a new audience to the fine and amusing writing of the late Michael Bateman and will allow his faithful followers another chance to dip into this amazing treasury. Yet another quality volume from Grub Street.
 

A Delicious Way to Earn a Living
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904943-92-1
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The Art of Simple Food

If you haven’t spent much time in the USA you might not instantly recognise the name Alice Waters. She is held in the same regard as the late and magnificent Julia Child and is a woman that even the iconic Martha Stewart bows to on all things culinary. Alice is as popular as our Delia but with a restaurant base rather than a TV series. The Art of Simple Food

Alice Waters was born in 1944, in New Jersey. She graduated from the University of California, Berkeley in 1967 with a degree in French Cultural Studies. She trained at the Montessori School in London before spending a year travelling in France.
 
Alice opened her restaurant Chez Panisse in California in 1971, serving a fixed-price menu that changes daily. The set menu format remains key to Alice's philosophy of serving only seasonal and fresh produce. The upstairs café at Chez Panisse opened in 1980 with an open kitchen, a wood-burning pizza oven, and an à la carte menu. Café Fanny, named after Alice’s daughter, serves breakfast and lunch, and opened 1984.

The Art of Simple Food is a book that has its entire focus on good ingredients, prepared without fuss. Alice starts with the basics but never confuses the reader with complicated cooking methods. It’s truly simple food but that’s not to say it’s bland or uninteresting. The dishes range from family fare to the more exotic Bagna Cauda.

The recipes, although good, solid and mostly familiar, have a Californian flavour that makes The Art of Simple Food an interesting read. It represents the style of food served in Alice’s restaurant and reminds us of trips to the Napa Valley. Quesadillas, Frittata, Pumpkin Pie all help to convince you that this isn’t a reprint of your grandmother’s cookbook.

Among the cake recipes is Cranberry Upside-Down Cake which has a real American feel and will be an ideal Christmas dessert. It’s an alternative to the classic apple Tarte Tatin and has the advantage of being less sweet and a bit more colourful.

Apart from the Californian slant there is plenty here to suggest that Alice Waters paid attention to her time in France. There are several Provencal dishes including the ubiquitous Ratatouille and Nicoise Salad.

The Art of Simple Food is an ideal cookbook for those who want a single volume that covers every aspect of cooking. Nothing is daunting for the novice and there are plenty of new dishes for the more experienced home cook.


The Art of Simple Food
Author: Alice Waters
Published by: Michael Joseph, Penguin
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15438-7
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The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books

Perhaps this book should have been entitled The Road to Chicken Tikka Masala for it charts the evolution of “Indian” food in Britain. It’s been a long and sometimes chequered story which mirrors the close association between the UK and India, the jewel in Queen Victoria’s crown. The Road to Vindaloo

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is part of a remarkable series from Prospect Books. The English Kitchen series looks at the history of dishes and their place in our cuisine. Other volumes include Trifle and Soup, but Early Vegetarian Recipes and Rhubarbarian will follow shortly. They form a fascinating study into what we eat and why.

The authors, Helen Saberi and David Burnett, are well placed to write a quality food-related volume. Helen has penned Noshe Djan – Afghan Food and Cookery, and assisted the late Alan Davidson in the compilation of the Oxford Companion to Food. David is a publisher who has won acclaim for his re-publication of Countryman’s Cooking by W.F. Fowler.

Our love of curry did, in fact, start before the Victorian era. The first mention of a curry in a cookbook was in 1717, although Nicholas Culpeper discusses in 1653 the properties of many of the spices that later were recognised as key curry ingredients. Of coriander he writes “... sends up unwholesome vapours to the brain, dangerous for mad people.” I hear that curry is often on the menu at the House of Commons; there is hope though, as the ever-popular mustard is said to be “...excellent for one that is troubled with lethargy.”

The charm of The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is that it’s a compilation from a variety of cookbooks. The attitudes they present range from the naive to the enlightened, with even the quintessentially English Mrs Beeton interesting herself in the preparation of a Chicken Curry with Chickpeas. She even recommends the use of ghee (Indian clarified butter) and that indicates that those returning from the subcontinent brought with them some traditional Indian ideas ...and perhaps some traditional Indian cooks.

Dr. Senn produced a good many cookery books before the First World War and until the 1930s. He is “famed” for such works as Tomatoes and Their Many Uses, and Special Dishes for Borstal Institutions. He notes that “...Madras curry is of the best classical period”, “...The Bengal artist is greatest in fish and vegetable curries”, and “...Bombay boasts of its particular gifts in its bomelow fish and popedoms.” I can find no reference to bomelow fish so I conclude that it must be extinct!

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is a fascinating and sometimes amusing look at the food we love so much. We might not eat “authentic” Indian food but we seem to love our version of it. This book is a must for anyone who enjoys Britain’s favourite food.
 

The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Authors: Helen Saberi and David Burnett
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-903018-57-6
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Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World

The history of pepper, and there’s 3000 years of it, is as romantic and bloody as any work of fiction.   Pepper has been used in medicine, in embalming when the medicine didn’t work, as currency, and as a status symbol. It’s one of the few spices that has continually graced the British cruet since cruets were invented. It’s so ubiquitous that it’s often a seasoning relegated to the ranks of “common” and “boring”.

Christine McFadden has penned this witty and absorbing volume. She is a celebrated food
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World writer twice nominated for world food media awards, former vice-chair of the Guild of Food Writers and is the author of thirteen other books including The World of Chocolate, Cool Green Leaves and Red Hot Peppers, and Tools for Cooks. Christine is an active member of the Slow Food movement.

Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World charts the rise of pepper and its progress from India to Europe via Arab traders. Pepper was found inside the mummified body of the Pharaoh Ramses, and was flaunted by Romans who used huge quantities of the expensive spice to impress their guests.

At the time of Queen Elizabeth I the English stevedores, the equivalent of modern dockers (if there are indeed still such men), were forbidden to wear clothing with cuffs and had their pockets sewn up to discourage pepper pilfering. Pepper still had a certain aristocratic value in 1973. That year saw Prince Charles Invested as the Duke of Cornwall with his feudal rent amounting to a pound of peppercorns.

It’s not just a history book. Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World even offers advice on buying a pepper mill, a gadget that I only encountered for the first time in 1975. There is, in fact, everything you might ever want to know about pepper, including lists of varieties and tasting notes. This isn’t a dry academic work although it’s full of information. Christine has an engaging style of writing, with every chapter littered with light humour.

There are over 100 recipes, which include everything from salad to cakes, and there are lots of delicious surprises such as Black Pepper Brownies, Pink Pepper Blondies and Hot and Sour Courgettes. Steak au Poivre (Pepper Steak) is traditional and a typical French menu item but it’s a good platform for what was, until recently, a much underrated spice.

Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World is informative but it’s equally an enjoyable read, well written and fascinating. I hope to review more books by Christine McFadden in the near future.


Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
Author: Christine McFadden
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 9781904573609
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The Branded Cookbook

Sounds like a recipe book from an old Arizona ranch. The Branded Cookbook is, in fact, a colourful, slightly retro, periodically Andy Warholish cookbook which concentrates on famous and iconic foods. It’s utterly unique, quirky, well designed and full of delicious and surprising ideas. The Branded Cookbook

The authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton have an amazing breadth of literary and culinary experience between them. Nick is the Creative Chef for Prêt A Manger and a well respected development chef. Johnny is a writer and journalist who has authored on topics as diverse as high altitude ballooning and the history of money!

The ingredients mentioned, for ingredients are just what these branded products become, are familiar and readily available. Staples like Kellogg’s Cornflakes, Quaker Oats, Vegemite (Vegemite??) and Heinz Tomato Ketchup. The recipes are certainly not all of the cheap and cheerful sort that I had expected. There are lobsters, mussels, salmon and Stilton to complement the Lea and Perrins and the Colman’s mustard.

I am sure we have all, with a sense of misguided guilt, concocted our own dishes using some of the aforementioned products. It’s a relief to find a real cookbook that acknowledges their quality, and encourages us to take that extra step and admit that the scrumptious fish supper was, in reality, Fish Fingers Coated with Oats, and Cornflakes with Hellmann’s Tartar Sauce!

The only product here that might cause the British home cook some problems is Skippy Peanut Butter. It’s a brand ubiquitous in the US but not so common in the UK. Use your favourite Peanut Butter and lie if necessary. Peanut Butter and Caramel Ice Cream has my vote. You have gotta love instructions that advise, “Squeeze on a good dose of caramel sauce and ripple it through with a shimmy of the hand.”

Camp Coffee (this has nothing to do with the Gay movement) will revive memories for anyone over the age of 50. It seemed the most common coffee around and was the forerunner of instant powdered coffee. It’s a combination of coffee, chicory and sugar and has long been recognised (by my aunty Jackie) as the essential ingredient in moist layered coffee cakes. The authors didn’t include my aunty's recipe but offer Creamy Coffee Layer Cake, which is a very acceptable alternative.

The Branded Cookbook is an unexpectedly good and sensible recipe book. The concept might, at first, seem strange but all the brands mentioned have been around for decades because they are practical, flavourful and reliable. I will feel no shame in using these recipes and I am sure I’ll add a few ideas of my own. A brilliant gift.


The Branded Cookbook
Authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-776-2
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Spice Market

I spend much of my life reading and reviewing cookbooks and indeed anything relating to food. I truly appreciate the hard work and passion that results in a published volume, but Spice Market is exceptional. It’s big, sumptuous, colourful and rich, and a book that I find myself dipping into for no particular reason other than to soak up its charm. Spice Market

The author, Jane Lawson, has been involved with food in one way or another since the age of eight. She worked for many years as a chef in Sydney but moved into publishing, which has allowed her to combine her love of cookbooks and cooking. Jane is now the commissioning food editor at Murdoch Books. She is the author of Grub, Yoshoku, A Little Taste of Japan, and Cocina Nueva, as well as being co-author of BBQ Food for Friends which won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award.

The photography by Natasha Milne and Alan Benson is marvellous and combined with the two-tone pale grey and white pages gives Spice Market a gift-quality feel. It has over 250 recipes which cover the whole spectrum of dishes containing spices, from Beef with Spicy Chilli Crust to Hot Cross Buns.

Spice Market has over 430 pages so it’s safe to assume that nothing much is missing. It’s not only a gorgeous recipe book but it’s also a reference book that manages to resist being dry and academic. Each spice is described, and then it’s on to the recipes. A simple and rather obscure spice like juniper has five recipes but pepper has fourteen examples, with every colour of peppercorn represented.

It’s not just savoury dishes that rely on spice to give flavour and sometimes colour. Chocolate Star Anise Cake with Coffee Caramel Cream is a stunner. Sesame Halva Ice Cream makes an apt but unusual end to a Moroccan meal. We all know that Custard Tart lacks a very important something if there isn’t that characteristic sprinkle of nutmeg on the top: Spice Market has a Peach and Custard Tart that elevates the original to a memorable dessert.

There is a whole chapter devoted to spice pastes and another devoted to spice mixes. These are the sections that make this book so inspiring. There are blends here that are almost impossible to buy in shops unless you have access to a good exotic market. Berber Spice Mix is wonderful with all kinds of lamb dishes, Dukkah is an Egyptian staple and mostly used with oil as a dip for bread. Panch Phora is aromatic and gives an authentic taste of Bengal to simple dishes like fried potatoes. I’d buy this book for the Spice Mix chapter alone.

Spice Market is splendid and I’ll not only enjoy leafing through its pages but also cooking its mouth-watering recipes and learning more about delicious blends. It’s a treat!
 

Spice Market
Author: Jane Lawson
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1741960389
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Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating

Ester Davies had penned a Student Cookbook that will honestly help those recently-fledged young people. Why? Because they will read this book. It’s no good handing out copies of your favourite glossy, chefy recipe book, or Xeroxed sheets of instructions for how to make your grannie’s foie gras-stuffed quail. Students (and this book works well for anyone of any age who is culinarily challenged) need to start with theStudent Cookbook – Healthy Eating basics.

Ester has a chatty, conversational style of writing that encourages you to feel that eating well isn’t, after all, going to be rocket science (or these days, media studies with a gap year in Nepal). It’s all easy stuff but you need to be pointed in the right direction by someone who knows about nutrition, but who equally knows that the food must taste good.

Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating starts with store cupboard essentials and equipment. There is everything here from saving money to avoiding food poisoning. The temperature and weight conversion charts are handy and Ester has thoughtfully added a glossary of cookery terms to demystify the whole process.

The chapters shepherd you from Cooking Basics to Entertaining, with all the nutritional information you will need to make healthy choices. There is plenty of advice on lifestyle changes to reduce stress and even what to do when you get a cold. The item on Improving Your Mood will be of particular interest to those who are in shared accommodation, and advice about eating take-aways indicates that the author truly does live in the real world.

The recipes are brilliant. They are easy to follow, well written and it’s just the sort of food that most of us would enjoy eating. There are plenty of dishes for vegetarians including Vegetable Toad-in-the-Hole, Chickpea and Spinach Curry (yes, you can use a can of chickpeas), Roasted Vegetables and Couscous, and lots more.

It’s a Healthy Eating cookbook but it’s not over-worthy and preachy. The ever-popular Spag Bol has its place but it’s a low fat version with whole-wheat pasta. Bangers and Mash and Cottage Pie are also given the low fat treatment and there is even a low fat Bacon Buttie!

Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating is a thoroughly practical but engaging book. It might well be more often used than the text books! Think about this as a Christmas gift for anyone going back to university or leaving home. Great value for money.
 

Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating
Author: Ester Davies
Published by: Need-2-Know
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86144-061-7
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Buonissimo!

This is the second book by Gino D’Acampo. His first, Fantastico, won the Gourmand Cookbook Award for the Best Italian Cookbook in the World. It’s safe to say that the lad described as the Italian Stallion by UKTV Food’s irreplaceable Jeni Barnett has a good idea about what makes a popular cookbook. Buonissimo!

Buonissimo is the latest offering from this young man. He has, I must admit, a certain sexy charm. He has that tee-shirted, designer-stubbled, southern look which some women find so attractive... OK, OK, so he decorates his books very well, but I’ll drag myself away and focus on the food.

This is a stylish volume with photography by Kate Whitaker who does a lovely job as usual. It presents recipes for just one person, a romantic couple, everyday suppers, easy but impressive recipes, and party food. Gino introduces some personal notes that add a little insight into the character of this man – a family man who appreciates the need for comforting meals for kids as well as classy dishes for formal evenings.

The recipes reflect modern tastes as you would expect from a young chef, but he is mindful of time constraints. There are plenty that are Italian in concept but others that are more international, like Curried Beans and Hot and Spicy Chick Peas. The book is no worse for those inclusions. This is, after all, the fashion of British eating.

It’s difficult to choose just a couple of recipes to illustrate the style of Buonissimo. The dishes are diverse but delicious with an unfussy, non-chefy look. Roasted Onions in Rosemary and Balsamic Vinegar are a traditional antipasti or a smart side dish for roast meats.

I enjoy both cooking and eating risotto of any kind, and Gino has a great example here: Risotto with Parma Ham and Vin Santo. You can substitute the Vin Santo with another medium white wine. This dish is not difficult to make but I think it’s good enough as a meal for friends at the weekend.

Limoncello and Lime Granita is a stunner! Any make-ahead recipe gets lots of points from me. Gino suggests this as a palate-cleanser between savoury courses. I’d be happy with this at the end of a rich or heavy meal or even just as a refreshing interlude on a hot (it could happen) summer afternoon.

Perhaps I should end by mentioning Gino’s Playboy Eggs! It’s got your imagination working but I’ll tell you that it’s just a cheeky name for a trendy breakfast of eggs, bacon, mushrooms and cheese. Served in a cup as Gino recommends, this would make a very special late morning snack. Perhaps that should have been included in the Romantico Chapter!

Buonissimo is bound to be as successful as Fantastico. Both the food and the author look great!

Buonissimo!
Author: Gino D’Acampo
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-807-3
 
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Curry – Classic and Contemporary

You already know, dear reader, that I have a passion for Indian food so it’s no surprise that I, once again, feature a book about the dishes of the subcontinent. This, however, is a little different from the previously reviewed cookbooks, as its focus is on future trends, as well as including lesser-known classic dishes. Curry – Classic and Contemporary

The author, Vivek Singh, is the executive chef at the celebrated Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He has previously penned The Cinnamon Club Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and Contemporary is a marvellous showcase for this man’s talent and unique perspective.

But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a curry”, “let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for any kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather amused  by our notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or horrified at our ignorance). It seems that the misconception dates back to the British officers of the East India Company. These chaps spent their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak the language so when asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was “curry” tonight rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the delicious array of other diverse dishes.

The recipes here are striking. I recognise the classics like Jungle Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there are many more that are new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a popular restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a scotch egg (boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic sauce. Those army officers in India would recognise this one.

I love Raan (leg of lamb) and Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes the most wonderful presentation for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a bit of work but you’ll find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the meat which will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous aroma that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the table.

Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are both of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my way through every dish. A delight.

Curry – Classic and Contemporary
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9-781904-573883

mostly food journal

Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce MakingSauces – Classical and Contemporary

This is another amazing book from John Wiley publishers. They might not be the most celebrated of cookbook publishers but the food-related books that they present are some of the best around, and Sauces is included in that list.

You know that any book, cookery or otherwise, that reaches its third edition has got to be worth looking into.  James Peterson deserves to be proud of Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making. It’s not only popular with the cookbook-reading public but it has also won the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award. This amazing volume is even used in culinary colleges and schools as a teaching aid.

Don’t be put off by the size of this book. It’s true that it’s as big as a small piece of furniture but it’s as big as that for a good reason. There isn’t any padding in Sauces. It’s cover-to-cover solid information that will be welcomed by anyone wanting to perfect sauce-making. Nothing seems to be omitted or overlooked. Every imaginable sauce is described, including Asian Sauces which have been added since the publication of the first edition.

There is, unsurprisingly, still a French bias but the book is no worse for that. Those sauces have a structure that enables flexibility and adaptation, and that’s the reason the methods have become classic. The contemporary sauces reflect modern tastes for lighter and healthier dishes where cream is less evident.

The book has a marvellous chapter on Pasta Sauces. James takes as much care over his catalogue of Pasta Shapes (over 30 in all) as he does over the pasta dressing, and these are not necessarily rich, tomato-based and complicated. It’s more about flavour of fresh ingredients and subtle combinations. Spaghetti with Clams or Mussels offers the choice of a cream or olive oil base, although Fettuccine and Shrimp with Crustacean Cream Sauce sticks to the luxurious and classic heavy (double) cream.

Desserts are not forgotten and the selection here is enough to make me quit my diet. Butterscotch Sauce is so delightful that I doubt it will get as far as garnishing a dessert - I’ll be eating it from the pan with a spoon.

Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making is bound to become a culinary icon. It has been so well received since its first publication. Its admirers are not only professionals but include ordinary folk who enjoy good food and want to present restaurant-quality meals. Any serious cook will want to own this book.


Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
Author: James Peterson
Published by: John Wiley
Price: £29.99
ISBN 978-0-470-19496-6
mostly food journal

The Chinese KitchenThe Chinese Kitchen

“ ... People who know Deh-ta say that he is one terrific chef, a chap who makes spectacular banquets, and one outstanding culinary host... If you do not already know this prolific author’s publications, you must! You need to try his recipes and learn from him. You will not be disappointed...” (The Institute for the Advancement of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine.)

Deh-ta Hsiung must be one of the authors most qualified to pen an encyclopaedia of Chinese ingredients, for that is exactly what The Chinese Kitchen represents. It’s a comprehensive and thoroughly engaging volume that will add to your knowledge of some foods and introduce you to others.

The formula for The Chinese Kitchen is that used by Kyle Cathie for several of their other publications, and it’s a style that works very well. Each ingredient is described, everything from growing to storing, and then on to culinary uses and recipes. Always well illustrated (around 300 photographs in this particular volume), these books demystify ethnic cooking and encourage us to take advantage of the amazing variety of ingredients available these days.

Apart from being a definitive guide to the Chinese store cupboard, The Chinese Kitchen offers over 200 recipes which will tempt you away from the local take-away and into the local Asian market. The recipes are not difficult to prepare and they are authentic and irresistible. You could do worse than to carry this book with you to the Chinese supermarket. Your filled shopping basket will, no doubt, impress the lady on the till who will rightly suppose that tonight’s dinner will be a marvellous affair.

You’ll want to cook your carefully selected purchases, and there is a dish here for every taste. Bean Curd is an example of a popular Chinese ingredient and there is a lovely recipe for Sichuan Spicy Bean Curd. Any dish cooked in the Sichuan fashion is bound to be punchy and flavourful and this version uses chilli bean paste and Sichuan peppercorns to supply the heat.

Ken Hom says of The Chinese Kitchen: “I trust that this major culinary work from the masterchef himself will be a proud companion to your Chinese cookery books as well as being a standard reference.” That’s a fantastic accolade from one of the best about one of the best and I couldn’t put it better myself.


The Chinese Kitchen
Author: Deh-ta Hsiung
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-702-1
mostly food journal

Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker RecipesMiss Vickies Pressure Cooking Recipes

And now, dear reader, for something completely different! This is all about cooking method, or I could more reasonably say it’s about making the most delicious food using a particular cooking method. The clue is in the title: Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes. The Pressure Cooker element is self-explanatory, but who is the aforementioned Miss Vickie?

Miss Vickie Smith is the foremost authority on pressure cooking. She has an amazingly popular web site (MissVickie.com) devoted to the subject. It has been visited more than 2 million times since 2001. That statistic alone is enough to encourage me to explore the world of pressure cooking. There must be a reason for all this interest.

Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the most comprehensive work on the subject. It’s a hefty tome containing nearly 400 recipes, a buyer’s guide (handy for those of us who are swelling the ranks of the clueless), instructions, adapting your favourite recipes, and safety (Aunty Jean from next door would not even visit if my mum was using her pressure cooker).

A pressure cooker ought to be considered as the latest “green” kitchen gadget. Think about it: it takes a fraction of the normal time to cook dried beans or large cuts of meat, and you can have mashed potatoes in five minutes. Less cooking time equals less fuel which translates into smaller gas or electricity bills for the already financially stretched household. Factor in the time saved by using this ultra-quick method and the whole proposition is starting to look attractive.

The UK seems to be rather backward with regard to this type of cooking. Every French household has a well-used pressure cooker and many Indian housewives will own two. If you are a vegetarian or a budget-conscious carnivore then you will find it an indispensible part of your kitchen battery. Chickpeas will be soft in minutes and cheaper joints of meat will be rendered tender and succulent in no time at all.

Miss Vickie’s recipes are mouthwatering. It’s very evident that the author is USA-based so there are just a couple of ingredients that you might struggle to find, such as particular chillies (although South Devon Chilli Farm has a marvellous selection of chillies that could easily be substituted). You’ll need to know that cilantro is coriander.

Salisbury Steak with Mushroom Gravy is an American classic and a great family dish. It takes less than ten minutes in the pressure cooker plus a little extra time for preparation and finishing. You can feed the kids and your hard-working wife in less than half an hour. 8 Minute Chili will be another winner and it only takes... umm.. 8 minutes!

Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the “must have” cookbook for anyone who wants to feel confident about choosing and using a pressure cooker. It’s persuaded me to take another look. Great value for money.


Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
Author: Vickie Smith
Published by: John Wiley and Sons
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7645-0726-8
mostly food journal

Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and ChutneysGood Old-Fashioned Jams

Even the title of this book fills you with a warm feeling of comfort. Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys is an old-fashioned and charming cookbook with text in sepia tones and photography by Tara Fisher. Clearly-written recipes and a bit of history with many of them is a nice touch in a National Trust book.

Sara Paston-Williams is a celebrated author and broadcaster. Her books include Good Old-Fashioned Puddings. She has a wealth of experience of traditional recipes which are now finding an appreciative audience among a new generation of cooks who want to make the best of fruit and vegetables when in season.

Apart from the aforementioned Jams and Chutneys there are plenty of interesting and classy preserves. The Pickles chapter offers modern-sounding recipes that include Pickled Chillies, Spiced Blackberries, and Spiced Orange Slices. All of these are simple to make and would be lovely Christmas gifts.

If you have a taste for the more exotic then there are Preserved Lemons which will look stunning in large glass jars. They are expensive to buy in the deli but you can make them yourself with a few spices and some coarse sea salt. They are delicious and add a truly authentic touch to many Moroccan Tagines.

Perhaps the most quintessentially English recipe has got to be that of Trelissick Lemon Curd. Trelissick is a National Trust property near Falmouth in Cornwall, where this curd is a filling for homemade lemon sponge. What could be nicer for breakfast, though, than some thick-cut toast and Lemon Curd or Blackberry Curd, or the tangy Strawberry and Orange Curd?

Mincemeat is another uniquely British confection and it’s true that Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without it. There is a Traditional recipe here but also some variations that are well worth trying. Cherry and Walnut Mincemeat encased in philo pastry would add a more continental flavour, and Pear and Fig Mincemeat is flexible as you can substitute dates for figs and use rum, whisky, sherry or cider instead of brandy.

Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys is a book of solid, well-written recipes that will encourage you to fill your larder with the best that each season has to offer. The jars will look amazing and the contents will persuade you that home-made is best.


Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Author: Sara Paston-Williams
Published by: Anova- National Trust
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-905400-70-6
mostly food journal

Moveable FeastsMoveable Feasts

You know, dear reader, that I’ll write about anything to do with food and kitchens. Well, this book, Moveable Feasts – What to Eat and How to Cook it in the Great Outdoors, supplies lots of information on food but not much on kitchens. It’s about campsite cooking and would be an ideal companion for the woodsy sorts who love mountain biking, climbing, hiking, fell running (can never understand the appeal) and those who like living in a tent.

Moveable Feasts is a surprisingly interesting book, even for me who has certificates for enjoying comfortable lodgings and non-inflatable beds. The authors, Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin, have written a veritable handbook for anyone who wants to eat well whilst surrounded by countryside, and there is plenty here that will be useful for the less adventurous who have a caravan in tow.

The book is divided in two, with the first part being devoted to practical insights into choosing energy-giving foods, building a fire pit and avoiding water-borne illness. If you stay well long enough you’ll appreciate reading the second part, which presents nearly one hundred recipes, designed to be made with only limited equipment. All measurements are by volume so you don’t need to cart around a set of kitchen scales.

The recipes are a real surprise and I couldn’t imagine how there could be nearly one hundred dishes made over an open fire - perhaps one hundred sausages (organic or vegetarian)? Not a bit of it! This is great food and fun to make. How about Sponge Cake cooked in a camp oven (information in this book), or Cheesecake? Thai Curry has got to be the smart face of outdoor eating, and you can invite the folks from the tent next door when you cook Garlic Mussels.

It’s not only food for those who treat their bodies like temples, it’s equally food that kids will love to eat and will probably want to cook. The notes on gathering wild ingredients (no, not Farmer Brown’s bull) are fascinating and will add another dimension to your trip.

Moveable Feasts is a well-written volume with sensible advice to enable you to eat well and safely when away from home. Even I am tempted to go camping... in the south of Spain next summer!


Moveable Feasts
Authors: Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin
Published by: Cicerone
Price: £14.95
ISBN 978-1-85284-534-6
mostly food journal

Tapas

Who wouldn’t love little dishes of delectable morsels? That’s the charm of tapas, lots of different tastes and textures. Tapas, the book that is, has pictures by one of my favourite food photographers. Any book that Gus Filgate is associated with is bound to be stunning. tapas

Tapas is the flagship book of the celebrated restaurant El Parador. Both authors can cook every dish on the restaurant menu so it’s safe to say they know what they are talking about. Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas have penned these lovely recipes that transport me back to Spain, to tapas bars with high counters groaning under the weight of an amazing variety of dishes.

Presenting a meal of tapas is just about the most casual form of entertaining. It’s convivial and a real ice-breaker, with everyone taking a little of this, a spoonful of that. It’s the culinary version of painting by numbers with each guest eating their choices in different combinations. It’s an ideal way of feeding lots of people with diverse tastes.

If you or your friends are vegetarian then you might feel that you have been short-changed with regard to dinner parties. There often seems to be a rather naff veggie option for non-meat eaters, and there are plenty of carnivores who don’t feel as though they have eaten unless an animal of some description had been sacrificed. Tapas, however, offers such a fantastic selection of dishes that you are bound to find lots to satisfy every dietary, cultural or ethical need.

It’s no surprise to see Tortilla Espanola (potato omelette) in the Vegetables chapter and this is lovely when made well. Serve it hot and fresh from the pan. Patatas Bravas are another staple of tapas bars and they are always popular and simple. Spinach and Cheese Parcels are a favourite at El Parador but this version uses ready-rolled pastry so it’s an easy one for the home cook.

There is so much here that is stylish and seriously easy and that’s got to be good. Purée de Habas Verdes (puréed broad beans with pan-fried garlic, rosemary and olive oil) has a real flavour of southern sunshine. It has eight cloves of garlic - don’t be tempted to cut down on that number. Even easier are the Fresh Marinated Anchovies which only demand a little chopping of garlic and parsley. That’s two tapas quickly sorted long before your guests arrive.

The fish dishes in Tapas are just as I remember them. There are plenty of squid but, for the less adventurous, mussels, prawns, scallops and even smoked haddock which could be welcomed by those who get anxious about “foreign food”. Hake Deep-fried in a Light Beer Batter is so good that you’ll be advised to make a double batch, and Char-grilled Sardines will tempt almost anyone when that distinctive and mouth-watering aroma wafts from the barbeque.

My favourite recipe in Tapas is for Chicken Croquettes. They will be familiar to anyone who has eaten in tapas bars either in Spain or the UK. It’s authentic and comforting and a dish that works well as part of a regular meal with a green salad and some tomatoes. Ham can be substituted for the chicken, or even vegetables - a flexible and delicious dish.

Tapas is a cracker of a cookbook. I am so impressed that I’ll probably be having tapas parties for quite a while. The recipes are suitable for summer al fresco eating, but equally for cold nights in with some fine sherry or a nice bottle of red. Hope we hear more from Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas in the future.


Tapas
Authors: Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-806-6
mostly food journal

A Kitchen YearA Kitchen Year

You might not recognise the name Paula McIntyre but she is, in fact, one of Northern Ireland’s top chefs. Paula trained at the Johnson and Wales Culinary Arts School in the USA before opening the award-winning Undrie restaurant in Manchester. She now gives private and corporate cooking lessons at Ghan House, Carlingford in Northern Ireland. But perhaps her finest hour was beating Paul Rankin on Ready, Steady Cook.

A Kitchen Year is Paula’s first book although she is an accomplished food writer and broadcaster. It’s a light and airy volume with marvellous photography by Hugh McElveen. The focus is on fresh and local ingredients and the changes that each new season brings. It’s a popular theme these days but that’s the way it should be if you have any regard for yourself or the environment.

The book is divided, as you would expect, by month and the recipes are well chosen. Paula has a good selection of dishes for both meat eaters and vegetarians. There are traditional favourites but the overall impression is of contemporary, healthy and delicious. The food isn’t over-chefy but is smart, and practical for the home cook.

January starts with an international flavour of Chorizo and Potato Empanadas served with Roast Garlic, Red Onion and Chilli Mojo. It might sound complicated but the Mojo is made in advance so you can have a stylish starter or snack in no time.

Sarbled Fadge sounds like something from Edward Lear who penned such gems as The Dong with a Luminous Nose and The Akond of Swat. It is, in fact, traditional potato bread which has the unique addition of a little polenta or maize meal. It might not seem very Irish but maize meal was sent from America at the time of the famine.

We should all eat more fish, and Moroccan-Spiced Mackerel is tempting. The seasoning is cardamom, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds and smoked paprika. Gone are the days of cheap fish but at least the humble mackerel is a reasonable price and it’s one of those oily fish that is so good for your health.

A Kitchen Year offers some truly different and delightful dishes. Festive Spiced Ham Terrine with Pomegranate Molasses Dressing might be a bit of a mouthful but you could use leftover ham to cut down on the preparation - another great make-ahead starter for Christmas. And talking of Christmas, how about White Chocolate, Orange and Cranberry Fudge? It looks festive and tastes luxurious with a hint of Grand Marnier. Paula says this fudge will last for up to two weeks. I don’t think so!

A Kitchen Year is a book full of innovation and I personally love Paula’s choice of recipes. The food reflects modern tastes and it’s bound to become a popular seasonal cookbook. Paula McIntyre should be proud. I look forward to more books but this one will be hard to beat.


A Kitchen Year
Author: Paula McIntyre
Published by: Gill and Macmillan
Price: £ 14.99, €18.99
ISBN 978-0-7171-4321-4
mostly food journal

Student CookbookStudent Cookbook

Sam Stern is a young but already experienced cookbook author. When I say “young” I mean YOUNG! He is still a teenager but has the handsome fresh face of a ten-year-old. However, read his book and you realise that the lad should be considered an author first, and one with a remarkable future.

Perhaps student cookbooks could be divided into two distinct groups. There are those that are chosen by parents (probably mums) for the soon-to-exit youth, and those that will appeal more directly to, and be purchased by, the students themselves. Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook falls into the second category, although I am sure those book-buying mums will understand the draw.

Student Cookbook is a square format, colourful volume, crammed with marvellous pictures of food and Sam. The text is clear and the recipes simple to follow. It’s a book aimed at the virgin cook... er, um, that is someone who is new to cooking. None of the dishes will fill the debutante with terror.

OK, the book is as good-looking as the author but how about the food? There is little point in investing in a recipe book that will stay on the shelf along with your Manga magazines. These look like just the sorts of dishes that will tempt those hard-working students into the kitchenette.

The food here is, for the most part, healthy without being worthy. It doesn’t seem like the usual student food of strange combinations, dishes of 3 ingredients one of which will be either chocolate or Marmite. This is sensible stuff that anyone would enjoy eating - snacks, soups, pasta, puddings, as well as veggies, meat and fish.

Each recipe is marked with a price symbol. A single £ sign indicates “skint/saving” and £££ is for the day your aunty sends you a bit of birthday money. Other markers let you know if the dish is suitable for vegetarians, how many it feeds, and if it’s fast to cook. It’s an easy way to find suitable choices at a glance.

The Noodles chapter offers Chop Suey Noodles with 4 symbols. It feeds 2, it’s good for those “skint” days, it’s fine for vegetarians and fast to cook. I am sure the book will naturally fall open at this page after a while.

Student cannot live by noodles alone, and puds are always cheering. How about Apple and Banana Hot Sugared Doughnuts? Easy to make but impressive as a dessert or late-night munchies. This recipe feeds 1 to 2 (probably 1 so make a double batch), it’s cheap, vegetarian and fast.

Sam’s cookbook will have young people cooking for themselves but also for friends and family. There are smart dishes as well as quick and casual meals. This is all about surviving in style on a budget. Cooking should be fun so buy this book and eat some lovely food. Great value for money.


Student Cookbook
Author: Sam Stern
Published by: Walker Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-4063-0818-1
mostly food journal

The Bollywood CookbookThe Bollywood Cookbook

This book is stuffed with the best looking people around. The author, Bulbul Mankani, introduces us to the glamorous world of the Indian film industry and it has a dreamlike quality. These actors and actresses are almost too good to be true and if you believe that they eat these wonderful dishes every day then I for one will sign up for the Gulab Jamun Diet. But more of that later.

I confess, dear reader, that I don’t know much of Bollywood and its films. They seem to be a confection of colour, vibrance, song and dance, and probably preferable to the offering of blood and guts which is so often the genre of choice for western film-goers.

Bollywood films have elevated film stars to superhuman and sometimes god-like status so it’s no surprise that there is a market for a cookbook to allow us a little peek into the eating habits of these famed folk. It’s not just the stars that look good; the food is mouth-watering as well. You wouldn’t expect the beautiful people of Mumbai to be tucking into chip butties, would you?

Although I can’t reel off the names of Indian film stars as if I was reading the local telephone directory, I can at least recognise a few of the most celebrated of the 19 or so featured in this volume. The Kapoors are perhaps one of the most famous dynasties and they offer Chicken Haleem and Yuglee Mutton. Another clan who has made film their business is the Bachchan family, who present us with Hara Channa Masala amongst others.

If you are a non-film-going European you might still recognise the name Shilpa Shetty. Didn’t she do rather well on one of those “reality” shows? Shilpa has a taste for Sukha Lamb and Spicy Beans, but for me the best recipe has to be from Raveena Tandon. Gulab Jamun is a dessert of melt-in-the-mouth balls of sweet syrup-soaked sponge and to know them is to love them. Raveena is an expert at making these and can recite the recipe from memory. That is surely the sign of a well-loved dish.

The Bollywood Cookbook has authentic Indian food aplenty. The 75 or so recipes are divine and not over-taxing for even a British home cook, and this is a book of style and excitement. I already have friends who want to borrow it and I suspect I’ll have to fight to get it back.


The Bollywood Cookbook
Author: Bulbul Mankani
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-765-6
mostly food journal


A Food Lover’s Treasury

Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy are the compilers of this enthralling collection of food-related literary extracts. It’s a book about the food that’s in books. Well, if we are lucky, we eat three times each day and food is a subject guaranteed to elicit some kind of comment or emotion from almost everyone, so food has supplied authors and raconteurs with witty, poignant and thought-provoking material for generations. A Food Lover’s Treasury

I could offer many marvellous quotations from this volume... but then there would be no point in buying the book. You will want to own A Food Lover’s Treasury and indulge in long leisurely evenings in front of your winter log fire (OK, sit near the radiator), reading and enjoying.

A Food Lover’s Treasury would provide ideal material for after-dinner speeches at caterer’s conventions or food-writers’ dinner dances. “He was a bold man that first ate an Oyster” was an observation from Jonathan Swift in Polite Conversation. “Cookery has become an art, a noble science; cooks are gentlemen” will be a sentiment promoted by most of you who will appreciate this volume... the author of this quote was Robert Burton (1621) and obviously his quill ran out of ink before he added “... and ladies.”

Woody Allen always has a droll view of society. From Annie Hall comes: “There’s an old joke. Uh, two elderly women are at a Catskill mountain resort, and one of ‘em says: ‘Boy, the food at this place is really terrible.’ The other one says, ‘Yeah, I know, and such small portions.’”

It’s not just the pithy one-liners that find a place here. There are plenty of longer excerpts that give a taste (if you’ll pardon the pun) of the original publication: D.H Lawrence - Sons and Lovers, Charles Dickens - David Copperfield, and George Orwell – In Defence of English Cookery.

A Food Lover’s Treasury is amusing and charming. You don’t need to be a consummate foodie to appreciate this book. Anyone who loves fine words and good writing will devour this with relish.
 

A Food Lover’s Treasury
Authors: Julie Rugg and Lynda Murphy
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2912-9
mostly food journal

Indonesian FoodIndonesian Food

Indonesian Food is a fascinating autobiographical cookbook which starts in 1939 when Sri Owen was a small girl. She has memories of food at her sister's birthday party: boiled soya beans in their shells, which Sri now muses are an expensive starter at smart London restaurants. That says so much about our society!

Gus Filgate is the photographer for this remarkable volume. Any collector of fine cookbooks will know that he is recognised as one of the best. Indonesian Food has a chunky, square format which is attractive enough to be a high-end travelogue. The saffron-coloured, embossed cover encourages you to expect something special... and that’s just what you’ll get.

Sri Owen is rightly considered the Grande Dame of Indonesian Cooking. Her career has been broad-based to say the least. In the mid-1980s, she even ran a delicatessen from the shop below the flat in Wimbledon, southwest London, which she shared with her husband Roger. "Besides preparing food for the shop, I also supplied Harrods with several Indonesian dishes - the spicy paste sambal goreng, mini spring rolls, and my marinade for satay and barbecues. I ran the deli for three years. It was really hard work. I didn't even have time to read.” That was a tragedy for a self-confessed bookaholic.

I confess that I am something of an Indonesian food debutante. It’s not that this is a cuisine that I have avoided but more that it’s not celebrated in the same fashion as, say, Indian, Thai or even Japanese. Sri has chosen recipes with care and uses ingredients that you’ll find in most well-stocked supermarkets or your local Asian food store, so you don’t have to be an experienced cook to tackle these dishes.

There are so many “must try” recipes here and Gado-Gado is included in that list. Sri notes “The best Gado-Gado, and I still remember it well, used to be sold at a warung in Jogyakarta, in a small alley not far from the main street, Malioboro. This was in 1960. For my fellow students and me, it was the main meal of the day.” This is a delicious preparation of vegetables and spicy peanut sauce. Healthy and full of flavour.

But, ooohh, the chapter on ice cream! I hadn’t considered ice cream as being popular in the east. A ridiculous oversight when I know that Indian kulfi is a lovely end to a sub-continental meal. Sri has some wonderful examples. Kaffir Lime Ice Cream and Coconut Ice Cream can both be made without going to the expense of buying an ice cream maker.

Indonesian Food isn’t a book to rush. Settle into your favourite comfy chair and read of Sri’s life, travels, tastes and experiences. Her writing is rich, charming and evocative and this is one of the most absorbing food-related books around.

Indonesian Food is, quite frankly, marvellous. Every recipe has impact, every picture is vibrant. Sri Owen has a warm and accessible style that makes this reading experience a joy.


Indonesian Food
Author: Sri Owen
Published by: Anova Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-678-7
mostly food journal

Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have

Party Time Recipes You Must Have This is a classy large-format volume by Jane Price. It’s one of the Kitchen Classics series from Murdoch Books and if this isn’t a classic yet it soon will be. The photography by Jared Fowler is first-rate and helps to give the book a sumptuous feel.

We all want or need to throw a party from time to time but it’s difficult to be inspired beyond sausage rolls, cold pizza and pasta salad. Nothing wrong with the aforementioned but you don’t want a reputation for tired and uninteresting food. Your guests will appreciate a scrumptious spread that looks like you have taken a bit of trouble... although in truth the preparation would have been easy.

The chapter headings will give you a few ideas before you even look at the recipes. They include Cocktail Hour, Barbecue Buffet, Tapas to Meze, and Desserts. All the recipes can be mixed and matched so you don’t need to stick slavishly to the proposed menus. There are some traditional dishes but also plenty that are new and different.

Let’s take a closer look at just one section. Simply Japanese has 28 delicious recipes that look authentic, exciting, light and fresh. These dishes would be ideal summer party fare if you are looking to impress. The preparation is simple and with very little practice you’ll have a stunning table groaning with exotic delights.

One of the easiest recipes from the Japanese chapter is Tonkatsu. It’s pork in breadcrumbs fried and served with a traditional sauce. The suggested presentation is Zen and unfussy and it’s a dish that takes no time to cook. You’ll love that when you are also trying to prepare numerous other tempting morsels.

Desserts are rather overlooked at parties. It’s often just a rich fruit cake in the guise of a birthday or Christmas cake, or trifle. There are 34 recipes here that will encourage you to have a go at something a bit more adventurous. There is a good selection of sweets that are lovely to look at but also a bit trendy. The Sorbet Balls will be a real winner and have the advantage of being prepared well in advance. They are, as you would expect, balls of sorbet but with a cracking coating of dark chocolate.

Party Time is an impressive book and great value for money. It’s full of ideas for stress-free entertaining that will allow you to enjoy the celebrations as much as your guests. That’s got to be a good thing!


Party Time – The Party Recipes You Must Have
Author: Jane Price
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £ 12.99
ISBN 978-1921259111
mostly food journal

Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense GuideVegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide

Before I go into a detailed review of Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide I should tell you that this has got to be the most user-friendly volume that has crossed this writer’s desk (OK, so it’s a kitchen worktop on legs!) in ages. It’s a chunky ring-bound book that really opens and stays open. One recipe and a great photo on each page. What more can a working hands-on cook ask for?

What this cook can ask for is a selection of vegetarian recipes that live up to the expectations raised by the book’s general presentation. They do, and there is also an abundance of information, not only about vegetarian cooking but about achieving a balanced diet.

You don’t have to be a card-carrying vegetarian to make good use of this book. This is just good food that doesn’t include meat. It isn’t a vegan cookbook although there are plenty of recipes that would be suitable for a vegan diet. There is so much here that is rich and decadent that you won’t feel you are making any sacrifices by following the vegetarian path.

This book has recipes to suit all skill levels but I couldn’t find anything that would make even a beginner over-anxious. The choice of ingredient combinations is what makes these dishes work, rather than complicated cooking techniques. The recipes have been tested to destruction by those nice people at Murdoch so you know they will work.

And so to the recipes! There are lots here that are lip-smacking delicious. Chinese Broccoli with Ginger, Lime and Peanuts is from the Noodles and Stir-Fries chapter and it couldn’t be easier. Phad Thai will be familiar to many of you and there is a good recipe here, but the star for me is Rice Noodles with Ginger and Sweet Chilli Vegetables. It’s spicy and exotic but quick to prepare.

About now you’ll be thinking of warming winter casseroles (you have probably been doing that since August). There is a whole section devoted to Casseroles, Curries and Bakes. These are robust and comforting dishes that will satisfy the heartiest of eaters. Lentil Bhuja Casserole is a flavourful dish of lentil “meatballs” and a rich Indian-inspired creamy sauce. It’s a one-pot meal so all you’ll need is some Naan bread on the side.

This isn’t an over-worthy tome to encourage self-denial. This is a recipe book for real people who like luscious puds with sugar and CREAM! Yes, you heard right! Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide isn’t a diet book, it’s all about good food and sensible eating, so tuck into some of these desserts... from time to time.  How about Banana Fritters with Coconut Batter?  Baked Almond and Marzipan Peaches would be a pretty and tasty end to a smart dinner for friends.

Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide is a gem of a book that will be appreciated by anyone who loves cooking and good food... it just happens to be vegetarian.


Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Author: Murdoch Books
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1741961232
mostly food journal

The Golden Book of ChocolateThe_Golden_Book_of_Chocolate

This has got to be the gift book of the year. It has impact in both size and quality of presentation. It’s sumptuous with gilt-edged pages reminiscent of a family bible. Those nice people at Apple Press informed me that this volume came with a gold belly jacket. I was pleased... er,um, but what was that? It’s a lovely dust jacket that nicely wraps the ample midriff of this magnificent volume.

That’s the exterior oooohs and aaahs out of the way. Unless you are buying this book only to put something sparkly on your bookshelf, you’ll want to know about all that’s inside. The photography by Alan Benson is a treat. You can imagine piling on the calories by just looking at all these sweet delights.

The introduction is fascinating and pertinent. It considers not only the history of the Swiss Nestlé, Lindt and Mr. Tobler (yes, the man who invented Toblerone) but also our own Green and Blacks who earned the UK’s first Fair Trade Mark for its Maya Gold chocolate.

There are over 300 recipes here so it’s safe to say that there is something for everyone. There are Candies and Cookies, Puddings and Pies but also Savoury Dishes that might come as a bit of a surprise. The recipes are easy to follow and offer lots of choice for home cooks of every level of skill and confidence.

One of the simplest recipes is Coffee Granita with Cream and Chocolate. It’s one of those perfect make-ahead desserts that are ideal for meals with friends. Served in shot glasses or small tumblers, it makes a sophisticated end to an evening. You only need to be slightly more adventurous to manage Milk Chocolate and Vanilla Semifreddo, which is a two-layer frozen pud in white and beige.

The Drinks chapter has a lot more than the predictable cocoa. Brown Cow has white rum, crème de menthe and crème de cacao. Served in an elegant stemmed glass, this would be a warming, rich cocktail for a winter party, a liquid version of a very adult after-dinner mint.

The Golden Book of Chocolate can only be described as special. It oozes luxury and it’s bound to make an impression with anyone lucky enough to receive a copy. Lovely!


The Golden Book of Chocolate
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-267-6
mostly food journal


India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the SubcontinentIndia – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent

This is a unique perspective from a west London lad who takes a voyage of discovery, a voyage to discover heritage, roots, amazing differences and surprising commonality. Sanjeev Bhaskar has straddled both British and Indian societies with their many complexities and contradictions.

Sanjeev had a childhood to which so many of us can relate. Home was a maisonette above a laundrette and under the Heathrow flight path. I can still remember the distinctive aroma of the paraffin stove that was the “heater of choice” for his family and so many others in the 1960s. Not everything was cold, grey and gloomy – the fish and chip shop was just next door!

The long family holidays spent in New Delhi seemed to the young Sanjeev to be a catalogue of discomfort, with intermittent water supply and mosquitoes that had a penchant for English take-away. Telephones were rare and air conditioning wasn’t an option, but how times have changed - twenty years later India is a world leader in biotechnology and pharmaceutical research, it has the world’s largest radio telescope and is at last taking its place in the international arena in so many other areas. India still manages to hold to its traditions, a task that would seem impossible to maintain under the onslaught of technology and modernity.

Sanjeev is famed for his comedic portrayal of Indians in the UK and for hosting Delhi Belly, a food travelogue with restaurateur Reza Mahammad. You would expect him to write a light and witty book, and India is very much that. It’s also filled with honest and sometimes painful observation. There is a story of tragedy here that also speaks of strength, forgiveness and hope for the future.

On a humorous note our hero is invited to the birthday party of His Royal Highness Rajeshwar Saramad-i-Rajha-i-Hindustan Mahararjadhiraja Maharajah Shri GAJ SINGHJI II Sahib Bahadur Singh. Sanjeev wonders “Gosh, what do we sing when we get to ‘Happy Birthday dear....?’ He had no need to worry as it was “Happy Birthday dear Bapji” and the dear man even handed Sanjeev a slice of his cake.

India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent is a book that will take you through the whole spectrum of emotion but it’s equally a book that will be thoroughly enjoyed by those of us who love India in all its myriad facets.


India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
Author: Sanjeev Bhaskar
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-0-00-724739-4
mostly food journal

Miniature FeastsMiniature Feasts

Celebrated private chef Michael Harwood has years of experience catering to the smart party set from LA to San Moritz. “Standing up is the new sitting down” is a phrase that sums up the style of entertaining that is presented in this gorgeous book. The photography by Steve McCallum shows Michael’s food in amazing close-up.

Feeding people can be a dread or a delight but if you find some great recipes, some unique ideas and some fine ingredients then you are a long way down the road to throwing a bash that will be memorable for your friends and painless for you.

We are all more sophisticated these days, with higher expectations. Most of us will be a bit disappointed if we are invited to a party where the food consists of nothing more exciting than pizza bites, cocktail sausages and sausage rolls, all of which you recognise from the freezer shop – the same ones you use! Miniature Feasts is a tool that will enable you to give your friends a tapestry of taste and visual charm.

There is so much here that is innovative. Beer-battered Oysters with a shot of Bloody Mary will be sure to lend your soirée a classy edge. These little molluscs will be inviting to even your most squeamish guests. We all love anything deep-fried and this cooking method takes away the daunting prospect of chewing on anything slimy, alive and probably thinking.

If old habits are hard to break and you still feel the need for a sausage roll then Moroccan Spiced Lamb Sausage Rolls should fit the bill. They will give you the feeling of safe familiarity but elevate the humble original into something memorable. They are not difficult to produce as Michael has given you permission to use ready-rolled puff pastry. He obviously lives in the real world.

Miniature Feasts offers so many mouth-watering morsels but the highlight for me must be Little Shepherd’s Pies Topped with Lancashire Cheese Mash. This is such a traditional dish but presented in this way it becomes elegant finger-food. Imagine, dear reader, your favourite mid-week Sheperd’s Pie encased in an individual pastry case. A whole pie (OK, a miniature version thereof) to yourself. That’s got to seem like heaven for a good proportion of the population.

Miniature Feasts if full of ideas to inspire. There is so much that is simple and different. Soon you’ll have a reputation as the Queen of convivial catering or the King of crafty canapés!


Miniature Feasts
Author: Michael Harwood
Published by: The Book Guild
Price: £16.95
ISBN 1-84624-025-5
mostly food journal

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and VinegarsThe Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars

This could be a timely addition to your book collection. Oil and vinegar are two staple ingredients that are indispensible to practically every cuisine. The importance of oil is mythical to the extent that some religions still incorporate oil into ceremony and celebrations. Vinegar is an almost miraculous by-product of the wine industry, acting as a food preservative... and an amazing rust remover!

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is another in that lovely series from Apple Press. Kathryn Hawkins has penned several food-related books including The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices which I have already reviewed. Nick Wright is responsible for the lovely evocative photographs. This book follows the usual The Connoisseur’s Guide format of lots of information presented in an interesting and accessible style.

There is an amazing variety of edible oils. You might have coconut oil or palm oil as your oil of choice if you live in either South-east Asia or Africa. Vegetable or corn oil is common in Europe although olive oil is now popular. Long gone are the days of tiny bottles of olive oil only being available from the local chemist shop. The purchaser would be treated sympathetically as they were obviously suffering from ear ache.

 Vinegar is an ancient product that has found new favour in the last few years. Balsamic is one of the more celebrated vinegars but there are others that have rich and interesting characteristics, including Alan Coxon's Historic Vinegars which I recently reviewed. Vinegars fall into two basic groups, those bought for food preservation and those bought for flavour. A sprinkle of Malt might be just right for your cod and chips but a lighter wine vinegar is probably more fitting for a dressing over your warm quail egg salad.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is a comprehensive directory with what seems like every imaginable oil and vinegar. They are not just listed but each entry has an extensive description and an At-a-Glance summary. There is everything here from history to cooking temperatures, and a section on Pairing Oils and Vinegars. You’ll make some fascinating and delicious new salad dressings.

It’s not surprising that I enjoyed The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars. This makes a great gift for any food lover be they carnivore or vegetarian. A well researched and well presented volume.


The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-272-0
mostly food journal

Traditional Spanish CookingTraditional Spanish Cooking

“One of my favourite books... it is such an inspirational book, with a good recipe on almost every page.” That’s the view of Simon Hopkinson of The Independent and half an hour spent with this volume and you will feel equally impressed. This is the winner of the André Simon Award and was shortlisted for Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year. Seems like the approval for this one is universal!

The author, Janet Mendel, is an American journalist who has lived in Andalusia for more than thirty years so she obviously has first hand experience of her subject. The recipes have an authentic feel to them and seem just like the real Spanish food that some of us have had the privilege to eat in homes and small family-run restaurants. There is diversity here that you don’t find on the Costas where full English breakfasts and meat pie “like mother used to make” is sometimes the order of the day.

The charm of Traditional Spanish Cooking is that we not only have the recipes but also their context in Spanish daily life. The complexities of a breakfast in Spain give an idea of the rhythm of meals. The country is an ancient culinary melting pot with regional differences that reflect the influence of many civilisations that came, saw and left vestiges of their own traditions.

Traditional Spanish Cooking presents us with dishes that are simple to prepare but which take advantage of fresh and seasonal produce. This is country cooking at its best with marvellous combinations of flavour and texture, aroma and comfort. What could be better?

Moorish Kebabs (Pinchitos Morunos) owe their origin to the Muslims who conquered Spain and brought with them their spices (as well as tiles, baths and a nice line in fountains). Pork is the meat of choice for these skewers in modern Spain but lamb or veal would have been used by the Moors. The Spanish housewife can buy the spices already blended, such is the popularity of these kebabs. You will probably have all you need already on your spice rack so no need to book that ticket to Madrid.

We are talking about Spain so you would expect a recipe for Paella. In fact there are three distinct and authentic examples here. Valencia Paella Rice with chicken or rabbit and snail; Paella with Seafood, although it still contains chicken; and Noodle Paella which has white fish and prawns, with the usual rice being replaced by spaghetti.

Traditional Spanish Cooking is a gem of a book full of delicious and sometimes surprising dishes. Great value for money.


Traditional Spanish Cooking
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by FrancesLincoln
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 0-7112-2677-6
mostly food journal

The Complete RobuchonThe Complete Robuchon

The name Joël Robuchon might not mean too much to you ... unless you are a food professional, a passionate home cook, interested in classic French cooking, a lover of fine food or a collector of the best cookbooks. Consider this as an introduction to one of the most celebrated of contemporary French chefs and one who has been awarded more Michelin Stars than any other chef. You know they don’t give those away free with cornflakes... not even top-quality cornflakes!

Joël has a restaurant empire that reaches from Europe to America and Asia. That’s not bad for a lad who had to find a job when he was only 15 years old. He was born in 1945 and by 1966 he was the official chef of La Tour de France, the most prestigious sporting event in the country. At 28 he was the head chef at Harmony-Lafayette and cooking 3000 meals each day (OK, he did have staff). Jamin in Paris was opened in 1981 and within 3 years he had 3 Michelin Stars under his belt.

The Complete Robuchon is a hefty tome of over 800 recipes. It looks an overwhelming size on the bookshelf but dip into these pages and you’ll see that it’s not going to spend much time on those bookshelves. This is a practical cookbook with sensible and accessible recipes that will be recognisable to family cooks all over France and beyond. Don’t be put off by the weight of the book nor the French name but rather focus on the quality of the dishes.

These are not cheffy recipes. It’s good old-fashioned cooking. Roast Duck is basic, traditional and delicious, and simple Buttered Cabbage relies on the quality of the produce rather than complicated cooking techniques. Skate Wings with Capers takes 2 minutes to prepare and only 13 minutes to cook. That’s less time than most preprepared “instant” meals.

My favourite chapter is that of One-dish Meals and Regional Specialities, not because it’s French food but rather because it has some of the finest rustic family cooking. Aligot is a winner of a dish of mashed potatoes, cheese and cream, and hails from the Massif Central, the central mountain range. Parisian Custard Tart is a lovely dessert but it’s not difficult, and nods to bistros and cafes and visits to the Louvre.

The Complete Robuchon deserves respect for its breadth of information. It must surely be considered a classic, not because the author is star-spangled but because the recipes stand scrutiny. It’s magnificent.


The Complete Robuchon
Author: Joël Robuchon
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-22-5
mostly food journal

A Table in the Tarn

It’s not just a story of a table but, in fact, a whole guest house. That guest house being in the Tarn region of South West France where the author, Orlando Murrin, and his partner Peter Steggall have made their home. More accurately, Orlando and Peter have turned an old property into a guest house, and A Table in the Tarn – Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France charts that journey. A Table in the Tarn

This is a charming volume of soft and sepia colours, and photographs by Jonathan Buckley. It’s stylish but resists the temptation to be too stereotypically “Country French”, it’s more about showing “Real French”. There are plenty of pictures of neighbours and staff who have played a big part in the success of the venture. The buildings are honey-coloured and typical of this part of the world, and just a flick through the pages will encourage you to follow in Orlando's footsteps... but read the book before you sell your home and head south.

A Table in the Tarn is divided into two parts; it’s almost like two different books. The Story of the Manoir is the first section and will drive away any romantic notions that you might have about renovating an old French pile. The tale of the plumber who filled the house with water from dozens of leaks - freshly plastered walls and ceilings being hacked away and treasured possessions being ruined - will be enough to make you think twice.

And then there is the language problem! French TV wanted to make a documentary about the Manoir. During a tricky piece of pastry folding, presenter Hélène Bassas asked Orlando: “Vous êtes là depuis combien de temps?” To which Orlando replies, “Une heure dix à peu près dans un four chaud.” (“How long have you lived in France?” “An hour and ten minutes in a hot oven.”)

The Recipe section of the book is divided by course and there are some lovely dishes that make the best of local ingredients. “Le Cake” is a popular French appetizer or even a starter. It is a savoury “cake” which can contain bacon, cheese, olives, onions or sausage and it’s almost always loaf-shaped. Orlando’s version has bacon, black olives, Reblochon semi-soft cheese and herbs.

The Ultimate Strawberry Tartlets are impressive but not difficult. Other soft fruits could be substituted making this a versatile and very posh dessert. The pastry uses Demerara sugar which gives a nutty crunch to the base. Mascarpone supplies the creamy filling and the final result is a stunner.

A Table in the Tarn will be a fascinating read for anyone considering a serious move to France but also for anyone who loves good food, either French or British.
 

A Table in the Tarn – Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France
Author: Orlando Murrin
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-726394-3
mostly food journal

A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery SchoolA Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School

The very name “Ballymaloe” sounds poetic and conjures visions of green and idyllic hills. Not far from the truth according to Antony Worrall Thompson who says, “I’m often asked which is my favourite cookery school. Without question Ballymaloe Cookery School near Cork in Southern Ireland would be my choice... At Ballymaloe you have everything, an exquisite property set in acres of wonderful organic gardens surrounded by fabulous countryside... Idyllic is a word rarely used but in Ballymaloe’s case it is the word that sums up what this cookery school is about.”

A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a lovely reflection of Darina Allen’s celebrated school. It’s a large-format volume with amazing photographs by Melanie Eclare, Michelle Garrett and Timmy Allen (hmm, another of the famous dynasty?). The overall impression is of comfort and calm. Probably just what we need in these times of crunching credit and creeping prices.

Darina is justifiably well regarded as not only a teacher but also an author. I have reviewed most of her books over these last weeks and they are all of a universally high standard but more importantly they are all a good read. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School will be appreciated by lovers of her friendly and warm-hearted style.

This particular book focuses on the use of fresh and seasonal produce. We might not all have access to a good market but we can all, at least, chose the best that the change of seasons has to offer. It makes sense to buy vegetables when they are plentiful and at a good (one hopes) price. Darina's book will give you an idea of what you should be looking for as the months go by.

The recipes are divided, as you would expect, by the four seasons. Those chapters each list Starters, Main Courses, Vegetables and Puddings. It’s nice to see those sweet things referred to as “puddings”. Sounds old-fashioned, cheering and comfy, although the puds here are trendy.

Steak and Oyster Pie is a classic and it’s good to see that combination of traditional and modern in the same collection. Thai Chicken, Galingale and Coriander Soup is a good example of the newer face of cooking. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School represents how both the Irish and British eat (or would like to eat) these days.

Darina's recipe for Christmas Semi-freddo with Raisins and Marrons Glacés is so good that it would be worth buying this book just for that. It’s one of those desserts that is simple to prepare, stunning to look at and delicious. A light change from the usual Christmas Pudding and the beauty of it is that you can make this ages in advance.

A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a joy and another Allen family triumph!


A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Author: Darina Allen
Published: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-709-0
mostly food journal

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea

This is another in the lovely Connoisseur’s series by Apple Press. The author, Jane Pettigrew, is a celebrated teaprofessional and currently edits the Tea International section of the Tea and Coffee Trade Journal. Jane is also a consultant to the UK Tea Club. This extraordinary woman even manages to find time to write a few food related books such as Connoisseurs guide to teaTraditional Teatime Recipes, reviewed here a few months ago.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is a colourful volume with charming photographs by Paul Forrester and map illustrations by Richard Chasemore. Those maps help to give the information some geographic context. Tea is an international product which has regional differences, and even subtle characteristics unique to particular plantations. The tea story is an amazing jigsaw of leaf varieties, climate and soil.

I wasn’t aware that tea is, in fact, the most popular drink in the world. Most of us in the UK tend to drink black tea and mostly the sort that comes in handy little bags. There is a trend towards green tea as well as flavoured teas although some of these rely on herbs and spices for flavour and contain no tea. It pays to look at the ingredients if you want to take advantage of the reputed health-giving properties of the real thing.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is divided into two parts, the first being The Story of Tea and the second being the Global Tea Directory. Most of us know a bit about the history of our cuppa but it’s a fascinating tale and we should perhaps view with shame our (that is the British) involvement. The British East India Company grew and exported opium to China. They did this despite the fact that the importation of opium was banned by Chinese law in 1727! The Chinese paid for the opium with silver and that same silver was used by the British to pay for tea from China.

The Global Tea Directory is comprehensive but much more accessible than many wine tasting guides. It covers all the main tea producing areas. Numerous teas are described, brewing tips are given and even suggestions for when you might best enjoy these teas and whether you should add milk or not... always controversial.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is an information-packed volume that will encourage you to try something a bit different. Dust off the teapot and buy some real tea. You’ll taste the difference.


The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea
Author: Jane Pettigrew
Price: £12.99
Published by: Apple Press
ISBN 978-1-84543-144-0
mostly food journal

A History of FoodA history of food

This book should be republished and retitled THE History of Food. It’s probably the most remarkable book on the subject I have ever had the pleasure of reading. A History of Food is huge in size and comprehensive in depth and breadth of subject.

The author, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, is a celebrated historian, journalist and writer and has published seventeen books in France on food and its history. Although a serious academic she writes with a light and charming style.

The original edition of A History of Food is considered as a master work. We all profess to love “the classics” but in truth we mostly read them when forced to at school. We say we read them in adulthood when in fact we only buy them to make our bookshelves look intellectual! I had therefore not expected to enjoy this new edition as much as I do.

A History of Food is a “good read” with all that those words imply. It’s absorbing, accessible and easy to dip into. There are 750-odd pages here so you will not be rushing through this in a weekend. It isn’t a book you will choose as your commuting reading matter nor will you read it propped up in bed with your late-night cocoa. (The weight alone will bring on the sensation of either indigestion or cracked ribs.)

Maguelonne has penned a book stuffed with facts but presented with a delightful padding of cultural observation, anecdote and folk tale. This could so easily have been a useful but dry encyclopeadia of food but instead it’s a colourful journey through the historic and social evolution of ingredients and their place in our lives.

The chapter headings will spark your curiosity: Spice at any Price, The Lure of Sugar, Tea and Philosophy. No food type is omitted, no adventure glamorized and no injustice minimised. A History of Food gives the facts and context for each and every narrative and will encourage you to regard some foods with a bit more respect.

I have been immersed in A History of Food for several days. Each page offers more fascinating stories, more tales of daring-do and more characters who have changed the way we eat and even the way we view our daily bread. If you love food, if you love history then this is the book for you. It’s amazing value.


A History of Food
Author: Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat
Published by: Wiley-Blackwell
Price: £22.99
ISBN 978-1-4051-8119-8
mostly food journal

Made in Great Britain

Aiden Byrne found his vocation at the age of 14. His cousin Alan Feeney was a big influence on his life and Alan had taken the catering route. Aiden’s granddad had been a chef in the Navy so it’s obviously in the blood.
Made in Great Britain
After two years studying catering at the then Knowsley Central Tertiary College in Roby, he got a job at London’s Royal Garden Hotel, but he hated it with a will known to few. “Being locked in the fridges is one of my memories. I couldn’t handle it and would cry myself to sleep.”

The negative experience at the Royal Garden Hotel sent Aiden back to his northern roots and saw him trying his hand at Chester’s Grosvenor Hotel where he stayed for 18 months. “I kept on going in for nothing and after four weeks they got p***ed off and offered me a job as a commis chef.”

After the Grosvenor Hotel he gained more experience in restaurants in Wilmslow and Leeds, before finding work at Adlard’s in Norwich. There, still only 21 years old, he was made head chef and by 22 he became the youngest chef to win a Michelin star. “I’d never worn a suit in my life and here I was being asked to a Michelin dinner at the Savoy in a bow tie! I was in the same room as Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and Raymond Blanc – it was totally overwhelming.”
 
Aiden found his niche in London at last when, in 2006, he was appointed head chef of The Grill at the Dorchester Hotel in Park Lane. He generously admits that he owes much of his success to his dedicated and talented team and the amazing facilities.

Made in Great Britain is stylish and impressive. The cover has been thoughtfully designed and has a young and masculine feel. The photography, both black and white, and colour, by Sue Atkinson, is superb. Lovely pictures of the food are contrasted by action shots of Aiden and staff.

Although both the chef and the dishes are undoubtedly “Made in Great Britain”, not all the ingredients are home grown. This book is a reflection of modern British food rather than uniquely British produce. Having said that, Aiden has presented a showcase for the best that these islands have to offer. He takes pride in all that is good and so often overlooked.

The recipes sound chefy, having titles that read like descriptions (Sea Bream with Lemon Sauce, Crayfish and Sage Risotto), but any competent home cook could tackle these in a domestic kitchen and be assured of spectacular results. There are lots of dishes that are simple so start with those and give yourself a bit of confidence. Strawberries with Whisky Granite is a stunner and imaginative but so easy.

Made in Great Britain is the ideal recipe book for any serious home cook. It’s well written and inspiring and will hopefully not be the last from Aiden Byrne.


Made in Great Britain
Author: Aiden Byrne
Published by: New Holland
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-84773-160-9
mostly food journal

Cooking for Babycooking for baby

We all want flavourful and healthy food but some parents are content to give bland and bottled meals to the smallest members of the family. Lisa Barnes has lots of fresh and interesting ideas for babies from 6 months to 18 months old. She is the founder of Petit Appetit, a culinary service that teaches parents how to provide healthy food to their children. Lisa is the author of The Petit Appetit Cookbook which won the iParenting Media Award.

Cooking for Baby has the appeal of a child’s story book. A pastel palette and strong images are complemented by the photography of Jeff Tucker and Kevin Hossler. Plenty of cute babies but also pictures of delicious food that would entice even the fussiest of eaters.

There are 80 recipes which are divided into sections appropriate for babies of 6 months, 7 to 8 months, 9 to 11 months and 12 to 18 months.  It’s true that babies develop at different rates so ask at the clinic if you are not sure when to introduce new foods into your child’s diet. The Key Nutrients information at the back of the book will give you more ideas about providing a balanced diet for growing youngsters.

Nobody will report you to the authorities if you give your baby a jar of food from time to time. Let’s be practical! It’s easier and probably safer to use pre-prepared commercial meals when you are travelling, but when at home you can easily make your own. Use organic produce and the best quality ingredients and you will be encouraging your child to have the taste for good wholesome foods.

Lisa gives you all the advice you’ll need to prepare delicious and safe meals for your children as they grow from small babies to toddlers. The First Tastes chapter is, as you would expect, a collection of purees. Sweet Potato Puree is a good example of a recipe that can be adapted for all the family. Your baby of six months will enjoy the thinned puree but you and the older kids can have lovely sophisticated sweet potato mash.

There are some chunkier meals in the New Flavours chapter for the 7 to 8 month babies, so Lentils and Lamb, and Asparagus “Risotto”, add more flavour and more texture to the diet. There are still purees to be found here but on the whole the foods are becoming more flavourful. Lisa offers lists of herbs and spices to add to the dishes.

Kids of any age will enjoy the recipes, especially those aimed at toddlers. Turkey Minestrone, Minty Aubergine Dip, and Meatballs with Polenta are easy to prepare and will be appreciated by everyone. You can adjust the seasoning for older family members and that’s a lot less time-consuming than cooking separate meals every evening.

Cooking for Baby is a volume that will give confidence to any young mum who wants to become more involved in her child’s diet.


Cooking for Baby
Author: Lisa Barnes
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-288-1
mostly food journal

Middle Eastern Cookerymiddle eastern cookery

Original copies of this book have changed hands for hundreds of pounds. It’s that combination of scarcity and popularity that encourages that monetary phenomenon. The author, Arto der Haroutunian, died in 1987 so his books are valued as a resource that will never be replaced. Arto was only 47 years old when he died.

Middle Eastern Cookery is considered by many as Arto der Haroutunian’s finest work and perhaps the seminal work on the subject. This must surely be one of the most eagerly awaited reprints, so highly is it regarded by culinary professionals and home cooks alike.

Arto begins with a charming preface; don’t skip this as it sets the scene. Arto talks of his family, now living in Manchester, and of their love of food and their generosity. He describes with warm emotions tables groaning with his mother’s delicious food and tells of numerous guests who shared and appreciated those tastes of “home”.

“Home”, for Arto, his family and friends was the Middle East. The Arab States, Israel, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Turkey, the Caucasian republics of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan, and Iran broadly represent that area, and the recipes of that region are the focus of this volume.

This is possibly the most comprehensive Middle Eastern cookery book available. OK, so it doesn’t have the padding of sumptuous photographs but Arto’s writing paints the most mouth-watering images. The recipes are, for the most part, simple, relying on the freshest and best of ingredients to give both flavour and texture to the dishes. The recipes are authentic, being popular family recipes from every corner of this fascinating but too often war-torn landscape.

There are plenty of recipes here that will bring joy to the heart of many vegetarians. Arto’s mother gave him plenty of culinary advice, (mums are like that) and one of those pearls was “Never serve boiled vegetables. Fry, stew, braise, pour sauce over, but never boil in water.” I think those wise words probably hold good for all of us.

The Ganachi (Cooked Vegetables) chapter offers an interesting selection. Kurdish Vegetable Stew is seasoned with cinnamon and has a crunch from walnuts. Nuts are also used with Shesh Havij (Carrots with Nuts) from Iran. It’s a dish garnished with both almonds and pistachios and a drizzle of pomegranate juice.

Lamb is the most popular meat in the Middle East so it’s no surprise that it features here. Lamb with Saffron and Almonds is found in North-West India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran, from where it originally hailed. It’s easy and exotic with warming spices. Hamuth Helou is an Iraqi lamb stew with dates, apricots, prunes and raisins. Rich, sweet and aromatic. I would, to be honest, be happy to eat my way through every dish in this book... er, well, um, apart from perhaps Hooves, Tongue and Tripe Stew but then perhaps I am a picky eater!

Middle Eastern Cookery is rightly a prized and appreciated volume. You will be happy that you don’t have to pay hundreds of pounds to enjoy this classic book.


Middle Eastern Cookery
Author: Arto der Haroutunian
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904010-81-4
mostly food journal

Easy PeasyEasy Peasy

This is the debut book by Sophie Wright. She must be tired of being called “the young Sophie Wright”! She is 22 years old but has years of experience. She studied at the celebrated Westminster Kingsway College in London for three years before starting her professional career, so Sophie already has five or six years in the Food Industry.

Sophie was recognised as an exceptional pupil at Westminster College, representing her school in competitions and winning a total of 15 medals. The most prestigious award was the Gold Best in Class Award at the Salon Culinaire at Hotelympia. In her final year Sophie was awarded the Top Graduate Achiever Award at the Craft Guild of Chefs Graduate Awards 2006. Sophie graduated with distinction with a Professional Chefs Diploma and was recognised as Highest Achieving Female Student and Highest Achieving Competition Chef. Not too shabby, huh?

Sophie gained hands-on experience when she took control of the kitchen at Beach Blanket Babylon in London. She was 20 years old! Now it’s time for her to focus on other aspects of her career with her own private catering company and freelance food writing.

Easy Peasy – Laid-back Food for Lazy Days is a large format and very pretty book with marvellous photographs by Kate Whitaker. It’s stylish with fresh and subtle colours. The recipes are easy to follow and have broad appeal.

The chapters include Bare Essentials, Posh Lunchbox and Show-off Suppers. There are lovely recipes here that are presented with humour and charm. Of Sweet Gypsy Toast, Sophie writes “My Nan used to make her savoury version of this”. Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny Trifles are individual trifles served in shot glasses. What a brilliant idea and why didn’t I think of that first.

You have gotta love a dish called The Unladylike Sandwich. It’s not so much a recipe, but more an idea for the best ever sausage sandwich. Mucky and mouth-watering. Pink Seafood Quiche is, as Sophie says, “One for the girls”. Any combination that includes salmon and crayfish is OK by me and this is a particularly fine and rich preparation. It looks divine and will be a favourite with all your vegetarian friends who are sick of you feeding them nut loaf.

Seriously Sexy Baked Chilli Pineapple should be Sophie’s signature dish, and it might well have been had she not been honest enough to admit that she first discovered this in New Zealand. This is one of those recipes that is embarrassingly simple but which will have your guests well impressed. Don’t you just love that?

We will hear more from Sophie Wright in the future. Easy Peasy might be her first book but it will not be her last.


Easy Peasy
Author: Sophie Wright
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-787-8
mostly food journal

Twinkle, Twinkle Little StarsTwinkle twinkle little stars

This is a little cracker! The author, Gervase Phinn, has spent most of his working life surrounded by children, having been both a teacher and a school inspector. Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a compilation of stories that reflect the unique picture of the world from a child’s point of view. It’s hilarious but manages to resist being cute and sugary.

Part of the charm of the book is that the children are from rural communities in the Yorkshire Dales. If you are, like me, a southern townie, you will find observations of country and animals quite enchanting. Gervase encouraged a small boy to show off his counting skills. “How many sheep can you see in that field?” asks our hero. “I can see all on ‘em” the boy replies. “No I meant how many altogether. Could you count them for me?”. “Well, there’s five Swalesdales and six Texels, three hybrids and four hoggits. That makes eighteen in total, dunt it.”

Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars captures the Dales accent marvellously. The chapter Simone and William Learn to Speak Proper is one of my favourites. “Miss, I can’t find mi readin’ book. I don’t know weer I’ve gone an’ putten it.” “I cannot find my reading book,” the teacher repeated slowly and precisely, “because I do not know where I have put it. There is no such word as ‘putten’.” The teacher wrote a sentence on the blackboard: “I have putten my book on the teacher’s desk.” She asked the class what was wrong with that sentence. “Miss, tha’s gone and putten ‘putten’ when tha should ‘ave putten ‘put’.”

Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a lovely little book and sure to be much appreciated by teachers, parents and grandparents. You don’t have to live north of Watford to recognise the innocent view of life and it’s good to know that computers and the internet have not yet eroded childhood.


Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars
Author: Gervase Phinn
Published by: Penguin, Michael Joseph
Price: £10.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15417-2
mostly food journal

Kitchen EssaysKitchen Essays

This is the quintessential English cookbook. Written in the 1920’s Agnes Jekyll has captured that decade, those years, those days of calm before the storm. Dress in your best flowery, floaty frock (if you are a girl, that is), invite some friends for a Sunday afternoon summer picnic and take this book along. Pack an old-fashioned wicker picnic basket with old-fashioned food (neither crisps nor cola) and transport yourself to a gentler time. Spread the rug on the cool grass and read aloud from Kitchen Essays to the delight of your guests.

Persephone Books have published a most charming volume. The understated grey cover is complemented with lovely endpapers taken from a printed silk, “Clusters of stylised fruits, flowers and shell motifs”. Designed by George Sheringham for Seftons in 1922, the pattern is typical of that era.

Kitchen Essays is, in fact, a compilation of recipes and articles published by The Times of London. They are said to be the first recipes published in that newspaper. Agnes Jekyll was considered as one of the foremost hostesses. Mary Lutyens described her house as “the apogee of opulent comfort and order without grandeur, smelling of pot-pourri, furniture polish and wood smoke”. It has to be noted though that it’s evident that there were, if not a battery of kitchen staff, as least a brace of skilled workers at her disposal.

There are some evocative chapter headings, giving an accurate impression of the style of the book. “In Cook’s Absence”, “A Little Dinner Before the Play”, “A Little Supper After the Play”, “A Winter Shooting-Party Luncheon”, “Food for Artists and Speakers”.

Kitchen Essays has a marvellous peppering of food-related observations. “We cannot both have our cake and eat it, and though to try is as human as to fail, we should at least ascertain what our cake is made of and weigh carefully all its ingredients before deciding which we will do with it.” Another droll quote, from the chapter Luncheon for a Motor Excursion in Winter - “There stands an Inn below the hill, rightly named ‘Pelican’ from its enormous bill.”

Agnes Jekyll penned a good many recipes, some of which are still popular whilst others are very much of her time. Chicken Pilaf, Bread and Butter Pudding and Risotto are all familiar to us and Baked Jam Roly-Poly has even been demonstrated by Chef Mike Robinson on UKTV Food. Syston Iced Pudding, Oeufs à la Crème and Sardines à la Sackville might not be thought of as regulars, chez vous.

There are a few dishes here that will never grace my dinner table, Camembert in Aspic being the most appalling of the bunch, but they are, for the most part, good recipes. Kitchen Essays is a book that you will enjoy for its social commentary and richness. It makes the most perfect bedtime reading and is sure to make its way onto the Christmas list of many a food lover.


Kitchen Essays
Author: Agnes Jekyll
Published by: Persephone Books
Price: £10.00
ISBN 1 903155 185
mostly food journal

Pizza – A Global HistoryPizza a global history

The Edible Series of food history books is turning into one of my favourite multi-volume collections. Pizza – A Global History is another title recently published and it has the same characteristic high-end presentation and content as the others I have encountered. These are small books but classy so if you are into shelf-appeal you’ll enjoy these, but you’ll miss out if you don’t read them.

But let’s talk specifics, in this case Pizza. There are almost 60 illustrations here that chart the history and also explore the future of this dish. It’s as iconic as the ever-popular burger and is certainly more easily adapted to local tastes and dietary requirements. Pizza has become an international favourite.

Pizza had a rather unpromising start, being the food of poverty and last resort for the unfortunate of Naples. The author and food critic Alexander Dumas  (yes, the same chap who wrote the Three Musketeers and many of those other books you say you have read) gave pizza a bad press but noted that the toppings indicated the state of the food supply in that area of Italy. People with money would never consider eating such lowly fare.

Young people probably suppose that pizza has always been a well-loved international dish. In fact it wasn’t even very popular as an Italian food till after the Second World War. It remained traditional only to Naples until many from that region migrated north for work, taking their taste of home with them. The onset of the tourist industry heralded a new dawn for pizza, with American GIs now returning with their families, seeking a slice of nostalgia of times spent in war-ravaged southern Italy.

America’s love of pizza started in the 40s and continues to this day. Its arrival coincided with the start of a more affluent and leisure-focused era. It was a dish enjoyed by young and old and could be purchased by the slice, in a restaurant or from a fast food stall. Young men on mopeds are a common site in most large towns and empty boxes are a new trend in street furniture.

Pizza – A Global History is fascinating and well researched. Carol Helstosky is a food writer deserving of a space on your bookshelf and I look forward to reading more from her.


Pizza – A Global History
Author: Carol Helstosky
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-391-8
mostly food journal

Making Fine Chocolatesmaking fine chocolates

I have, over the past months, reviewed several lovely chocolate cookery books. This is, however, a little different. This is all about making your own chocolates rather than using chocolate in, say, a cake or tart. Making Fine Chocolates will take you through the process of transforming a bar of high-quality chocolate into flavour-infused chocolates, truffles and other gorgeous sweets.

Andrew Garrison Shotts is the former corporate pastry chef at Guittard Chocolate and owner of Garrison Confections. He has been recognised as a “Top Ten Artisanal Chocolatier” by the American newspaper, USA Today. I think we can assume that this young man is an expert.

I know to my cost that chocolate is an iffy substance to work with. It is quite forgiving as an ingredient in most desserts but hand-made chocolates demand a bit more thought and technical know-how. This being said, it’s not rocket science. If you can follow a recipe and have a thermometer then you’ll have no problems.

Making Fine Chocolates has an exceptional Techniques chapter. Read this before you even consider embarking on making chocolates. Perfecting tempering will mark your efforts as professional. You'll want to make chocolates that look as good as expensive shop-bought ones. They need to be glossy, have a smooth and non-grainy texture and mouth-feel on melting. Handmade chocolates are not just melted and shaped bars of chocolate. You’ll find the tempering step well worth the effort.

Let’s get on to the fun part... the chocolates! Chocolate Truffles are the easiest to make and Andrew offers us a great selection of exotic ones. Banana Caramel, Peanut Butter Sizzle and Sesame are just a few of them.

Moulded Chocolates are the ones that you will want to perfect. You can buy the plastic moulds in most good cookware shops. Making Fine Chocolates gives all the advice you will need and also lots of helpful step-by-step pictures. The chocolates you’ll make will be inspiring and a bit more up-market than those you find in most commercial boxes.

Andrew Garrison Shotts has penned a lovely book that will be essential to anyone who wants to present something special at the end of a meal or as a gift. There are very few people who would not be impressed by unique and delicious chocolates made by your own fair hands. There are only a few books about making chocolates and this is one of the best.


Making Fine Chocolates
Author: Andrew Garrison Shotts
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 13: 978-1-84543-194-5
mostly food journal

Cooking on The BoneCooking on the Bone

You won’t want to miss this one! Cooking on The Bone – Recipes, History and Lore must be one of the very best (mostly) meat cookery books. It’s a stunner and is, as far as I know, unique. Rob Fiocca is a genius of the shutter and has conjured marvellous photographs that complement the text so well.

This is, surprisingly, Jennifer McLagan’s first book. She has more than 25 years working in the food industry in both Europe and Australia as a chef and a food writer. Cooking on The Bone was the winner of the James Beard Award and IACP Best Cookery Book Award. Not bad for a first try!

I find this book immensely appealing. It oozes comfort and warmth and is just the kind of volume that will encourage even less adventurous men to invite a few friends for Sunday lunch or a winter dinner. It has the feel of a solid family cookbook with recipes that encompass the most traditional to the more exotic.

The chapters are, quite reasonably, divided by meat type but fish is the surprise and welcome addition to the list. We are so often deprived of the opportunity to eat fish or meat from the bone. The modern attitude has been that bones should be discarded and are somehow socially unacceptable, very much in the same way that Victorians would cover piano legs!

The recipes are mouth-watering but this is easy cooking. There is nothing here that could be described as challenging. The key to good results is the quality of produce. Meat and fish are pricey these days so you’ll want the best from them when you have paid out your hard-earned cash. Jennifer not only offers superb recipes but also lots of information and advice about different cuts of meat.

Whole Fried Whitebait seems, at first glance, a bit out of place but it is indeed cooked on the bone and is one of my top ten favourite dishes. These delicate morsels are not battered but just dusted with seasoned flour before frying. The texture is crisp but much lighter than fish and chip shop fillets. Jennifer suggests Deep-Fried Parsley as a garnish for the whitebait. A nice cheffy touch.

Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb is surely the most practical dish for a weekend with a house full of friends and family. Delicious and simple. Your home will be filled with the enticing aroma of roasting meat, garlic and rosemary. Just some roast vegetables and a flavourful gravy are all you’ll need to please with ease.

Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic is a classic. It sounds like a joke but it’s a recipe that works. The garlic becomes sweet and soft and can be served as a spread with some crusty bread or toasted baguette. Even friends who insist that they hate garlic love this fragrant chicken dish.

Cooking on The Bone is a must-have for any passionate cook. It is bound to become a classic. Amazing value.


Cooking on The Bone
Author: Jennifer McLagan
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-20-1
mostly food journal

Pancake – A Global Historypancake

Another soon-to-be classic from the Edible Series by Reaktion Books. Pancake – A Global History is just one from that long list of titles that will shortly be available. There are two other volumes already in book stores, Hamburger and Pizza.

The author of Pancake – A Global History is Ken Albala. You might remember his name as the author of Beans – A History, that I recently reviewed. He is a witty writer who has a talent for giving a thorough overview of a subject but also adding well-researched specifics. Always amusing and edifying.

I have a love-hate relationship with pancakes. I love eating them but hate the sporting nature of the dish. What, dear reader, is the sporting element of the pancake story? It’s the British institution of the Shrove Tuesday Pancake Race. It’s an event that involves a lengthy trot whilst carrying a frying pan garnished with a pancake, this being periodically tossed. I have indeed participated (under coercion) in such an event and I conclude that pancakes are better left to satisfy hungry diners in the comfort of either home or restaurant.

The humble pancake is a truly international dish which has represented either a hearty breakfast for working men (a pile of thick pancakes with bacon and maple syrup) or a refined touch of luxury in the case of caviar-topped blini. The ingredients change according to geographic location and availability of flour but the principal cooking method remains common. Ken has been kind enough to include a number of recipes for some of the classic varieties of pancake like blini and Crêpe Suzette.

Ken suggests that “Pancakes taste best consumed in periods of sloth on protracted weekend mornings. They must be savoured without hurry or premeditation, ideally in dressing gown and slippers, at the kitchen table or maybe even in bed, and preferably in excess, just to the brink of nausea.”

This is another rollicking read from Ken Albala. His style of writing is always accessible. There is a stack of information here and it’s evident that he enjoyed the subject. It isn’t an over-academic and heavy book but it’s fascinating to anyone interested in the history of the ever-popular pancake.


Pancake – A Global History
Author: Ken Albala
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-392-5
mostly food journal

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky

Wine, and French wine in particular, has a high profile but what of the Water of Life? The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky tells the story of the other world famous and much celebrated drink. Whisky is revered and collected in the same way as fine wine and is enjoyed for its depth and character. Whisky

This amazing volume is a comprehensive directory of over 100 whiskies, including Scotch single malts and blended whiskies. This isn’t a guide to Scotch; it encompasses whisky from the United States, Ireland and Japan. You’ll learn how to taste whisky and appreciate the differences between, say, Irish and Scotch which are many and distinct, even to my unpractised palette!

There are many who will think that the author, Helen Arthur, has the best job in the world. Her whole career has been spent in alcohol! She has penned, amongst many others, The Single Malt Whisky Companion, one of the world’s bestselling books on the subject. Whisky Water of Life won the Best Spirits Book in the World Award 2000. Both these are published by Apple Press.

Helen was made a member of the Keepers of the Quaich in 1999. This was in recognition of her work in promoting “the advancement, standing and reputation of Scotch Whisky”. I know you are too shy to ask what a Quaich might be, so I’ll put you out of your misery and tell you that it’s a special kind of shallow two-handled drinking cup or bowl. It derives from the Gaelic “cuach” meaning a cup. OK, so I looked it up!

There are more whiskies listed in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky than you are likely to find in your local supermarket and each of the 100 or so entries is detailed, giving history, owners, location, contact information, colour, nose and taste, in fact there is everything you could ever want to know about any particular whisky apart from who designed the label! Helen even tells us if there is a visitor’s centre. Now there’s a thought!

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky lists some unique distillations. Klochoman on Ilay produces New Spirit which is clear. The first bottling will take place in 2010 when the spirit will be four years old. Helen reckons this one shows great promise.

Helen Arthur has presented a marvellously illustrated catalogue of world whiskies that any connoisseur would love to own.

Cookbook Review:The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
Author: Helen Arthur
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-275-1
mostly food journal

Kids Partieskids parties

This is such a lovely dolly-mixture-coloured volume that I am considering adopting a few kids just to have the excuse to throw a party for them! The photography by Thayer Allyson Gowdy is charming and remarkable when one considers the difficulty of taking a good picture of children doing anything other than sleeping!

The Author, Lisa Atwood, has worked as a food writer and an editor and publisher for the celebrated Williams-Sonoma cookbooks. She has also worked as a children’s cooking instructor so has plenty of experience at the sharp end of entertaining kids.

Kids Parties – Creative Ideas and Recipes for Making Celebrations Special, to give the book its full title, has seven party themes appropriate for all ages and interests. It’s not just the food that is planned but also invitations, decorations and activities. Lots of the recipes are child-friendly and offer a new experience for young hands.

There are some inspiring chapter headings. Pizza Party, Halloween Party, and Easter Party are just a few of them. Cupcake Party would be a popular theme for little girls who want a sophisticated and thoroughly feminine celebration. There’s plenty of advice on even the smallest of details. Party hair clips decorated with butterflies are great gifts for the guests. Frilly straws, pastel-coloured drinks with slices of strawberries and sugared rims will make everyone feel grownup. Make the cupcakes beforehand and let the kids decorate them. All you will need are three buckets of delicately coloured icing in various shades and as many sugar or chocolate decorations as you can find.

Lisa takes the fear out of entertaining children. She provides all the inspiration you’ll need to give a stylish bash without breaking the bank. You can mix and match the ideas and recipes and tailor the party to the tastes of you own children. Each party theme has all the advice you’ll need to help your day be less traumatic. There are Party Plans, Recipes, things to do Ahead of Time (that’s good to see), on the Day of the Party, During the Party and Activities.

Kids Parties will be a book that your children will enjoy looking at, and if you involve them in choosing and preparation they will feel the day is truly theirs. A bit of planning will give you a worry-free celebration with lasting memories of a fun time for the whole family.


Kids Parties
Author: Lisa Atwood
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-287-4
mostly food journal

Fresh Eggs Don’t Float

This must be one of the most amusing but practical books around. Lara DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges have collected and compiled a treasure chest of good advice that they are happy to pass on to novice cooks. Fresh Eggs Don’t Float has a number of recipes but it’s more a book of cooking tips laced with witty observation. fresh eggs don't float

Lara and Caroline are friends who have a passion for food. Although separated by the Atlantic, they decided to further that interest by cooking a new recipe every day for a whole year. Now, I reckon that’s quite an undertaking! Many of us view the prospect of preparing a new dish for every day of a weekend with a mix of horror and adrenalin-pumping anxiety.

Fresh Eggs Don’t Float is the result of culinary collaboration and a wealth of experience. There are charming quotes from famous chefs, food writers and food lovers that express their passion for cooking. Louis Armstrong loved beans and rice so much that he signed his letters with “Red beans and ricely yours”. The celebrated American chef and food writer, James Beard wrote “I don’t like gourmet cooking or ‘this’ cooking or ‘that’ cooking.  I like good cooking”.

If you have a terror of all kitchen-related things then this is the book for you. It pretty much starts with the assumption that you have an empty kitchen and no idea! The authors offer lists of equipment, utensils, gadgets that are either essential or nice-to-have. Once you have the hardware you’ll be considering food and so Lara and Caroline steer you through stocking the storecupboard, spice rack, freezer and fridge.

Each chapter focuses on a particular food and discusses that item in considerable depth. Let’s take Chicken as an example. Did you know, dear reader, that chickens are considered to be the closest living relatives to Tyrannosaurus Rex? The lifestyle and life expectancy of chickens is described (battery, barn reared, free range, organic). There are some good safety tips as well. It’s said that there are more chickens than people on earth and that they can be vicious. I guess a good safety tip would be “Don’t annoy the chickens”. There is lots of sensible information on stuffing and cooking methods.

Fresh Eggs Don’t Float will make you smile but it is good solid food writing. It presents information on shopping for produce, food preparation and cooking. Its light-hearted style makes its serious advice more accessible to a new cook.
 

Fresh Eggs Don’t Float
Authors: Lara DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges
Published by: Piatkus – Little, Brown Group
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7499-0968-0
mostly food journal

European Peasant CookeryEuropean Peasant Cookery

I have two big “thank yous” to start this review. First to the author Elisabeth Luard and secondly to Grub Street publishers who have presented me with this amazing book which I have so wanted to review. European Peasant Cookery should be recognised as an “important” work and I am sure it will be sought out by passionate cooks.

If you are a Food TV fan you might not have heard of Elisabeth Luard. She has been only seldom seen on the small screen but she is one of the most respected food writers. Respected by chefs, cooks and food journalists, and there can surely be no higher accolade than to be well regarded by one’s peers. 

Elisabeth has an almost poetic style of writing. If you enjoy Elizabeth David you will be equally enchanted by the books of this other Elisabeth. Every paragraph reflects culinary experience and presents detailed information and advice. No corners are cut and nothing is omitted. You’ll read this book rather than flick through its pages. The anecdotes will bring vivid images of lively markets, sunshine and real people. Not “farmers” markets but markets populated by those who understand quality ingredients and accept nothing less. Those are often simple ingredients which are later transformed into the most splendid of feasts.

European Peasant Cookery has over 500 recipes from 25 countries. It’s a weighty tome but there is no padding. This is quality food writing from cover to cover. The recipes are divided by food type and include such things as Reindeer and Kid (No, dear reader, it’s not a small child but rather a young goat.)

Each recipe has a little history and indicates the country of origin. It’s peasant cooking so these dishes are not technically difficult nor will they require you to spend a fortune on a battery of kitchen gadgets. For the most part it’s all quite simple. Buy the best produce you can find and you are almost assured of a terrific meal.

Many of the dishes are what we now think of as classic although we could equally describe them as dishes that have stood the test of time. They are still with us because they are delicious and simple and have been popular for generations. This is a collection of recipes that work.

France is well represented as you would expect but let’s not be food snobs. Every one of those 25 countries has contributed something noteworthy. Beef and Beer Carbonade is a rich stew from Belgium, Pickled Vegetables is from Bulgaria, Bean Stew with Serrano Ham from Spain, and Lancashire Hot Pot from England - and it’s appropriate to mention that there are a good many entries from the UK.

I have been looking forward to reading European Peasant Cookery and it has been as wonderful as I had hoped. It’s quite remarkable food literature, and great value.


European Peasant Cookery
Author: Elisabeth Luard
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £15.00
ISBN 1-904943-36-5
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Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy

Tana Ramsay has a book with one of the prettiest covers around, with a moiré silk-effect dust jacket. Home Made –Good Honest Food Made Easy gives a first impression of old-fashioned values and warmth. A marvellously well illustrated volume with lots of charming shots of Tana’s kids. This is, after all, a family cookbook. Home Made

Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy is divided into 11 chapters that reflect Tana’s key foods. The recipes are easy and designed to allow the cook some quality time with family and friends - lots of dishes that can be made in advance. This is something of a lifestyle book and presents a vision of convivial gatherings around the kitchen table... if you are lucky enough to have a kitchen table!

Soup is the original comfort food. Quick and easy to prepare and full of good things. It’s the sneaky way for hard-pressed mums to stuff some camouflaged vegetables into reluctant kids but these are smart recipes and good enough for entertaining - Sweetcorn and Coconut Soup, Sweet Potato and Carrot Soup with a Chilli Oil Sprinkling.

Pies of any sort make impressive meals. Tana has individual Chicken and Mushroom Pies. These would be ideal for children who when given shares of a big pie complain that Wayne got a bigger slice and Tinkerbelle-Twinkle got an extra mushroom. Ahh, the joy of family life! Tana lives in the real world and uses ready-rolled pastry.

Cinnamon Beef Stew is the dish you should make if you want to sell your house. I know the agents say you should have the enticing aroma of fresh brewed coffee but trust me, the hint of cinnamon in this stew will get any viewer reaching for the cheque book... well, at least they will say you have a lovely home!

Smoked Fish Pâté has a wonderful texture. Tana presents hers in a dish although it’s a handy starter served in small individual ramekins.  Kippers are a healthy oily fish so you can feel good about offering this pâté to your family and especially if you can persuade them to eat brown wholemeal toast on the side. It’s best to use the fishmonger’s kippers but not many of us have access to a wet-fish shop. Boil in the bag kippers will work just as well.

Tana Ramsay has the taste for the good things in life and so has included a chapter devoted to Chocolate. Nothing wrong with that! White Chocolate Cake with Dark Chocolate Topping is a no-bake cake with a biscuit base and a filling of cream and melted white chocolate. It has a gorgeous drizzle of dark chocolate sauce to finish. You’ll find yourself making this one often.

Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy has recipes that are a bit different but still sensible. Tana Ramsay is a mum with little time but plenty of imagination and talent.


Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy
Author: Tana Ramsay
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-727608-0
mostly food journal

The Big Book of Thai Curriesbig book of Thai Curries

Vatcharin Bhumichitr has penned some fabulous books and I must say that The Big Book of Thai Curries is equal in every way to those others. He is the golden boy (well, OK, man) of Thai cooking.

Vatch has stuck to the winning formula of easy dishes with flavour and style. He has wisely marshalled the talents of photographers Martin Brigdale and Somchai Phongphaisarnkit once again. It’s a partnership that works well and produces the most sumptuous and colourful of books. There is the tried and tested mix of recipes and insight into Thailand and its people.

The Big Book of Thai Curries not only offers us recipes but gives us a wealth of information about Thai cooking and the place of curry in that cuisine. This is authentic Thai food and Vatch steers us through everything from regional culinary differences to making curry pastes. It’s fascinating and far easier than one would have imagined.

So how does a Thai curry differ from the ever-popular Indian varieties? Thai curry nearly always uses fresh herbs and spices rather than the dried preparations favoured in kitchens of the subcontinent. Indian curries are most often cooked in a base of ghee (clarified butter) rather than coconut milk. Thai curries often combine vegetables with meat or fish while Indian curries tend to be either of vegetables or of meats or fish.

The recipes are grouped by main ingredient: poultry, meat, fish, and vegetables and fruit. There is also a section of Snacks and One-Dish Meals which has a selection of dishes that most travellers will find familiar. Pork Satay with Peanut Curry Sauce (Moo Satay) is popular street food but these succulent little skewers make a tasty starter. Seafood Toast (Kanom Pang Talay) is an elegant morsel of bread with a delicate taste and crunchy texture.

The recipe chapters have some lovely surprises, the main one being the ease of preparation of all these dishes. Spicy Stuffed Roast Chicken is one of my favourite recipes. The whole chicken makes for a different presentation from the more usual array of small dishes of curries, rice or noodles. The stuffing in question is of onions, pork, peanuts and herbs, flavourful and lighter than the bread-based stuffing more common in the UK. The curry paste in this case is used as a rub before roasting, and coconut milk is used to baste.

Mackerel in Red Curry is another noteworthy dish. No fish is exactly cheap these days but we know we should eat more of it. Mackerel is a reasonable price and a healthy oily fish. The whole dish takes less than ten minutes to prepare so it’s got to be a great mid-week meal.

The Big Book of Thai Curries is just as stunning as I had expected, the recipes just as delicious and they are accessible to even novice cooks, who will be producing exotic and attractive meals in no time at all. Vatcharin Bhumichitr has done it again!


The Big Book of Thai Curries
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-808-0
mostly food journal

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices

connoisseurs guide herb and spice Kathryn Hawkins is a well-respected food writer and author of several books, a home economist and former editor of Woman’s Own magazine. Her knowledge of her subject is evident in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices.

This is a charming encyclopaedia with fine photographs and delicious recipes. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a cross between a botanist’s handbook and a cookbook. The detail here makes it an ideal companion when you next take an exotic city break to, say, Istanbul. You might at least then have some idea of what’s for sale in the spice aisle of the Grand Bazaar! There is plenty of advice on growing your own herbs, either in containers or in the garden.

We have been using herbs and spices since ancient times. The first book referring to the use of culinary herbs was penned by the Roman Apicius. Spices became more widespread after the fall of the Roman Empire when Arabian traders took advantage of the Mediterranean market.

From the eleventh century, the Crusaders introduced plants from the Holy Lands into Europe. The wealthy in medieval times had access to quite a list of exotic spices to enliven what was otherwise a bland diet.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is divided into the two obvious parts, herbs and spices, each of these with a history, advice on use and common names. Kathryn maintains a light and readable style while explaining the properties of the herbs and spices as well as their culinary uses.

There are a good number of recipes which have been chosen to best present a particular herb or spice. Black Olive Tapenade uses thyme to good effect. Fattoush is a light Lebanese salad with plenty of fresh parsley. Smoked Salmon Risotto uses dill which is a classic partner of salmon of any kind.

The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a well-written, well-illustrated volume which would be welcomed by both gardeners and cooks.


The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-226-3
mostly food journal


Desserts

It’s got to be one of my favourite books of the moment. Desserts is quality in both content and presentation. The large format allows for the most gorgeous photography by Brent Parker Jones who has used his skills to great effect. The authors, Rachel Lane and Ting Morris, are both successful food writers and they have done a great job. Desserts

Desserts has a marvellous selection of recipes. Rachel and Ting have chosen well with a balance of both classic and contemporary. The text pages are open and clear with an almost Art Deco feel. Very attractive without being over-designed.

There are 250 international and thoroughly delicious recipes here. These are so diverse that this book is bound to have broad appeal. People with special health needs are not forgotten. There are quite a few recipes that are marked as being suitable for those with specific food allergies. This is a great idea and one that should be adopted by more food writers.

The desserts are divided into 17 different groups as well as a section for basic recipes. There is everything here from Fruit Desserts to Fritters. There are Warm Puddings and Soufflés as well as Frozen Desserts and Ice Creams. Lots of simple dishes are included but the more experienced cook will find plenty of inspiration. There isn’t anything here that could be described as challenging and there are a host of step-by-step illustrations to help with unfamiliar techniques.

Cupcakes are the trendy dessert just now and there are 18 scrumptious examples. None of them is taxing but all of them look elegant and stylish. Banoffee Cupcakes have my vote... or perhaps Orange Sour Cream Cupcakes... but I’ll go for the Low-Fat Chocolate Cupcakes. I need to choose something virtuous as I’ll be trying all the other 249 desserts before too long!

It’s nice to see a section on Candy. Sweets can be just as acceptable as more traditional desserts at the end of a meal. Coconut Ice is a perennial favourite and ideal as the finale to an exotic Indian or Middle Eastern dinner. Peanut Brittle is easier than you would imagine and the only disadvantage is that you will never seem to manage to make enough. Trust me, this is moreish!

Desserts is impressive with enough new and unique recipes to fire the interest of even the most enthusiastic of home cooks. My collection of cookbooks is considerable but I am happy to add this one to my shelves. This is great value and it stands a good chance of being this winter’s best-seller.


Desserts
Authors: Rachel Lane and Ting Morris
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-268-3
mostly food journal

Cupboard LoveCupboard love

Laura Lockington has penned an autobiography that is both hilarious and poignant with the common denominator being food. This is brilliant and my only complaint is that it’s too short. I was disappointed when I reached that last page. The same sentiment one has when one reaches the end of a well-needed holiday.

Cupboard Love is populated by eccentric but lovable characters who offer Laura an enormous range of experiences, both emotional and culinary. Food, like the smell of perfume or aftershave, has the power to evoke vivid memories, and Laura’s story is a tapestry woven of meals and misadventure. Even those less happy encounters have added colour to her journey.

Not many books bring tears of mirth but this is one. Don’t read this in a public space for fear of making a spectacle of yourself. The events themselves are amusing but Laura’s choice of words is nothing less than inspired. The chapter titled Dinner Parties from Hell will have your sides aching but there are so many other truly funny anecdotes. Plenty of nostalgia, not of the “those were the days” variety, but recollections of Vesta instant meals and PVC raincoats that are bound to raise a smile with a sizable section of the population.

Perhaps I should warn you that you will read this book twice. I started reading the narrative and couldn’t stop. It’s compelling and you’ll need to know what happens next. I reached the last page and had to return to read the recipes, which all relate in some way to Laura. Each chapter (apart from that dealing with school dinners!) has a recipe.

So how about the food? The recipe for  Strawy’s Christmas Cake sounds very tempting.  It’s not the rich, heavy fruit-laden traditional but a cake moist with Clementines and lemons which would be ideal for anyone with wheat intolerance as it uses ground almonds instead of flour.

This is the first of Laura Lockington’s books that I have read but it won’t be the last. She has a unique style that I can only compare with such notable wits as Peter Ustinov and David Niven. There are very few truly amusing books around but this deserves to be at the head of the list. A real chuckle but also a warm and human story.


Cupboard Love
Author: Laura Lockington
Published by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-280-9
mostly food journal


Easy Entertaining

The words “easy” and “entertaining” are not often found in close proximity to each other but here they are in cosy partnership as the title for this wonderful book from Ireland’s Queen of Cuisine Darina Allen. This lady never disappoints, and the photography by Peter Cassidy is crisp and stunning. Easy Entertaining

Easy Entertaining is not only a cookbook, it also has styling and presentation suggestions. It’s a one-stop entertaining manual that will give the novice party-giver some confidence and the seasoned bash-thrower a different perspective. There are over 250 stress-free recipes to enhance any occasion.

Darina offers advice on menu planning, creating atmosphere (I personally am not keen on mirror disco balls), getting the party going, and choosing wine and drinks. If you are new to entertaining then you should read these chapters before you buy the crate of Newcastle Brown and the cheese puffs.

The most challenging element of your venture will be deciding what type of “do” will be most appropriate for your guests. If the average age of those friends is 5 ¾ years then you might consider looking at the Children's Food chapter rather than Formal Suppers. A Big Brunch could be the way to go if you have family who have a long drive home, and Prepare-ahead Suppers will give you no-fuss dishes for those evenings when time is an issue.

The recipes are broad-based and exciting. You can mix and match all of these. Icky Sticky Sausage Wraps from the Children’s Food chapter could be used as part of an adult brunch. Gateau Pithivier with Gruyere and Ham from the Portable Food chapter could easily be enjoyed as part of a formal supper. Darina Allen isn’t going to come round and smack your leg (not legal now) if you have your own menu combinations.

I’d be happy to munch my way through all these recipes. There are stylish snacks like Rory’s Spicy Popcorn which couldn’t be easier. The spices in question are chilli, pepper, cumin, curry powder, fresh ginger and garlic. Mouth-watering! Temari Sushi (Clingfilm Sushi) is new to me but what a great idea. Sushi rice is formed using the aforementioned clingfilm. Attractive little balls are simple to produce and a lot less terrifying than the usual rolled varieties of sushi.

The Slow Food chapter has some comforting winter warmers. Beef and Oxtail Stew with Parsnip Mash isn’t difficult to make and has a rich texture and flavour. What could be better on a cold night, followed by Steamed Sultana Pudding? Then there is Slow-roasted Shoulder of Lamb with Cumin Seeds. Now, this is almost no-cooking cooking. Put in a low oven and leave for a few hours. Your kitchen will be filled with the most delicious aromas.

Easy Entertaining isn’t just for entertaining. It’s simply a great cookbook with inspiring recipes that will become family favourites. Another success, Darina!


Easy Entertaining
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-761-8
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Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a HeartDivine Chocolate recipes

Perhaps we could say that this book is Divine by name and Divine by nature. The “nature” in question is that of Fairtrade chocolate.

Linda Collister, the author, has long been a supporter of fair trade and has compiled these recipes which specifically use Divine Fairtrade Chocolate. I guess you could use other brands of good quality chocolate but why not do something good for yourself and others. The Divine brand offers some of the best chocolate around and each bar you buy helps support farmers in Ghana. This isn’t a free hand-out. Those farmers work hard but get a fair price for their cocoa beans. A win-win partnership.

Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is a sumptuous volume in classy black and gold. The photography by Lisa Barber is excellent and the gold coloured text gives this book in general a very high-end feel. The pages are decorated with traditional West African Adinkra symbols which celebrate the relationship between Divine, the company, and Kuapa Kokoo, the farmers’ co-operative in Ghana.

However much you applaud the fair trade philosophy, you will buy this book for its truly delectable recipes. Well, where do I start? There are lots of traditional favourites like chocolate chip cookies but many have a bit of a twist. White Chocolate Cookies Studded with Cranberries are a treat and Lava Peanut Cookies sound downright intriguing, with Lava being an easy fudge icing added after baking. Looks like a great wet-afternoon project with the kids.

Many of the recipes are quite out of the ordinary. Balsamic and Chocolate Cake is egg- and dairy-free. Linda says this one works well with some mascarpone and ripe figs on the side. Sounds romantic, Italian and summery. Keeping to that same continental theme, Marbled Italian Cheesecake uses mascarpone instead of the usual cream cheese to give a lighter and silkier texture.

Divine not only offers us cake and cookies but ice-creams and savoury recipes as well. Bitter Orange Soufflés Glaces are quite easy to make and freeze, ready to be the grand finale of your next smart dinner for friends. Mexican Day of the Dead White Chocolate Mole doesn’t seem very cheery but it’s a delicious recipe of chicken with a tasty nutty sauce. Sounds like a strange combination but it works, trust me, and, no, this doesn’t taste like a chicken and Mars Bar casserole, the chocolate is there more for richness than flavour.

Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is an impressive, gift-quality book that has a thoughtful selection of both traditional and contemporary recipes. Gift-quality it might be but I’ll be keeping my copy for myself!


Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Author: Linda Collister
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 9781904573739
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Hamburger – A Global History

Reaktion Books is a publisher that has presented some of the most worthwhile food-related books around. They have just added a new collection of books to their list and you’ll want these if you have ever boasted of having a love of food. The Edible Series has three titles at the moment (Hamburger, Pizza and Pancake) but more will be added soon. Hamburger A global history

Hamburger – A Global History is a small-format book but it has a quality feel to it and a wealth of historic and iconic illustrations. The author Andrew F. Smith is a hamburger aficionado but obviously doesn’t spend all his time in fast-food joints. He has found time to pen The Encyclopaedia of Junk Food and Fast Food, and he edited The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, and teaches culinary history at the New York School, New York.

Either you love or loath the ubiquitous burger but we probably all agree that it’s here to stay. So the question is “Why is it here?” and why is “here” all over the world? Hamburger – A Global History considers not only the nutritional nature of the patties but their social impact. I doubt that any food product has caused more outrage or adoration than these ever-present meat-filled buns.

At the time of publishing, McDonalds boasts sales of over 100 billion hamburgers, which works out to be about 16 hamburgers for every person alive in the world. The statistics are mind-blowing! The hamburger has however been an American classic since the 1890s and was on sale in every diner, cafe and restaurant in the US by the 1930s.

Did you know, dear reader, that the first commercial hamburgers sold outside the USA were served in Paris? They were served to expats in the 1920s. I note that a “Macdo” is still the food of choice for many visiting Americans. Furthermore, The McAloo Tikki Burger is the best selling burger in India! The first burger chain in India was Nirula’s in the 1950’s. Their menu included Paneer Burger, Mutton Maniac Burger, French Flip Burger (chicken) and Crazy Pea Burger (made from dried peas).

We in the UK preferred our fast food to be a little slower than Mcdonalds so embraced the Wimpy Bar. These are a dying breed of burger restaurants with an unexpected touch of civilisation. You get a real plate with real cutlery served by a waiter who is often real and you can wash your meal down with a nice cuppa tea...with a saucer!

Hamburger – A Global History offers us a comprehensive exploration of the ever popular fast food and considers the future. It’s a thoroughly entertaining read and a “must read” for anyone who has either an interest in food in general or who has concerns over the globalization of meat-based fast food.


Hamburger – A Global History
Author: Andrew F. Smith
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-390-1
mostly food journal

Quick and Easy Low-Fat CookingQuick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking

It should be no surprise that I am here again with another Catherine Atkinson cookbook. Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking follows the same format as all the Quick and Easy series. Slim volumes but full of delicious recipes, mouth-watering photography and, most important, the information is always accurate and understandable.

It’s probably true to say that there are quite a few Low-Fat cookery books around but the recipes here have the advantage of speed without sacrificing taste. Catherine has selected dishes that trick you into thinking that these are not light foods at all. The combinations of ingredients, spices and textures will allow you to make healthy choices and you’ll enjoy doing it.

Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking isn’t exactly a “diet” book but rather a “change your eating habits because you need to shed some weight and live a healthy life” book. Have a flick through the pages and you’ll see that making some simple adjustments will make a big difference.

Take the time to read the few short chapters before the recipes. These give key advice on eating well and cutting down on fat. There is a Weekly Meal Planner which will help you through the first four weeks and Catherine has even provided shopping lists so there will be no excuse to resort to the chippie or take-away half way through week two!

It’s not necessary to be overweight to use and enjoy this book. The food is just tasty. Moroccan Chicken is seasoned with coriander, cumin and cinnamon with a tang of fresh ginger. It’s the spice here that gives the impression of richness that is often provided by oil. Catherine suggests green beans with this and I reckon that would be smart enough for a dinner party. This dish is ready in less than 40 minutes and it is simple.

There are plenty of vegetarian dishes on offer. Many vegetarians say that too often they resort to cheese as the main meal ingredient. Open Lasagne is stuffed with fresh vegetables and has the stylish contemporary look of a real cheffy dish. The recipe uses only 25g (1oz) of grated Parmesan to garnish.

Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking will be welcomed by anyone who either wants or needs to consider a lower-fat diet. Remember that there are more things to eat than to avoid. Catherine Atkinson has provided a tool to make a positive and painless life change. Enjoy!


Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking
Author: Catherine Atkinson
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03455-9
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How to Cook for Food Allergies

Are food allergies more common these days or are we just more aware? It’s evident that there are a lot of people who have adverse reactions to common ingredients but everyone wants to eat delicious food. How to Cook for Food Allergies will be welcomed by millions who want to provide safe food for the whole family with dishes that everyone can enjoy.How to cook for Food Allergies

Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne is a chef and co-author of award-winning Leith’s Techniques Bible. She has not only taught but has run her own catering business. She has three children, two of whom have food allergies. Lucinda is well-placed to give advice born of first-hand experience.

If problem foods were ingredients such as truffles, larks tongues in aspic and fillet of aardvark then this book would never have been written. It’s common foods that cause the difficulties. Eggs, soya, nuts, gluten and dairy are the main culprits. If you want to have a varied and interesting diet then you need to know how to substitute these foods for ones that will not present symptoms. Lucinda gives you all the advice you’ll need to make those substitutions.

How to Cook for Food Allergies has three parts, the first being Living with Food Allergies. It’s probably the most important element of the book as it deals with how to avoid problem foods, eating out and travelling, and eating a balanced diet on a restricted diet.

The second part of How to Cook for Food Allergies tells us how to substitute ingredients, and each of those common problem foods has a chapter. Read this and you’ll start to see the light at the end of the culinary tunnel. Lucinda offers us the prospect of real food that doesn’t taste like a compromise.

The third part introduces the recipes and you’ll linger over these because they are good, flavourful dishes that are easy to prepare and will be appreciated by the whole family. Gone are the days of cooking two different meals to accommodate allergy sufferers as well as those lucky folk who can eat everything down to the pattern on the plate.

Moroccan Chicken, Apricot, Olive and Saffron Tagine is aromatic and exotic but free of dairy, gluten, eggs, nuts and soya. Lasagne al Forno will become a favourite if you use gluten-free pasta. There are lots of allergy-aware products in supermarkets today. Gluten-Free White Bread uses potato flour, cornflour, tapioca flour and rice flour instead of the conventional strong wheat bread flour. The same recipe can be used to make pizza.

How to Cook for Food Allergies is a practical cookbook that will be a god-send for anyone who either suffers from food allergies or cooks for someone with a food intolerance. It’s well-researched but not over technical. It’s sure to become a best-seller.


How to Cook for Food Allergies
Author: Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne
Published by: Rodale, Pan Macmillan
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-905744-28-2
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500 Pizzas and Flatbreads500 Pizza and Flatbreads

I have never come across anyone who doesn’t like bread and there are very few people who would pass up on a deliciously garnished pizza. 500 Pizzas and Flatbreads has enough ideas to keep everyone happy. It’s another volume in the Apple Press 500 series of books. They are always well written and well presented with great shelf-appeal, but  they are also  thoroughly practical.

Rebecca Baugniet is a freelance food writer who has also penned 500 Pies and Tarts and has worked as the food consultant on other books in the 500 series and her passion for food is evident in this smashing volume.

Making bread isn’t rocket science, dear reader. All you need are a few simple ingredients and a couple of good recipes. Bread dough is versatile and more forgiving than you would imagine. Pizza and flatbreads are a good start for the novice baker. They are after all...er, flat! It’s the light and lofty loaf that worries people but that’s not what we are after here.

If you are a lover of a good quality pizza then you will expect to part with quite a bit of cash for each pie. If you make your own you have several advantages. First, freshness and quality. (OK that’s two but I am trying to be fair!) Second, your choice is endless, everything from traditional cheese and tomato with a sprig of fresh basil, to figs! Third, you’ll send the kids to Uni on the money you’ll save. You need the cash more than the lad on the moped does!

Rebecca has provided us with several basic pizza base recipes and then it’s on to the delicious variations. There is everything from the most humble but classic and still popular cheese-topped pizza to Steak and Mushroom Pizza. There are hundreds of recipes here and you’ll make little adjustments to suit your taste. Once you have mastered the simple technique of making the dough then there will be no stopping you.

If you prefer more classic flatbreads then you’ll be pleased to find Classic Fougasse with its tang of black olives. Focaccia has the delicate flavour of olive oil and the crunch of sea salt. Crisp Rye Flatbread or “knackerbrod” is listed here and would be lovely served with some flavourful cheese. The list of flatbreads is almost endless and truly international. There are lots from India, Mexico and the USA.

500 Pizzas and Flatbreads offers plenty of advice to the novice bread maker as well as an amazing selection of recipes both classic and contemporary to the more experienced baker. Another great value book from Apple Press.


500 Pizzas and Flatbreads
Author: Rebecca Baugniet
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-270-6
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The Legendary Cuisine of Persia

I can’t overestimate the importance of The Legendary Cuisine of Persia. There are so few books on the culinary history of Iran although it has had a profound effect upon the foods of so many eastern countries as well as the Mediterranean diet. Legandary Cuisine of Persia

Margaret Shaida, the author, was born in England but moved to Iran when she married. She lived there for 25 years and learned to cook from her mother-in-law, friends and other family members.

At first glance you might find it difficult to see the relevance of Persian cuisine in modern Europe but there are a few clues to its impact. The Old Persian bâdangân became al-badinjan in Arabic, alberjinera in Spanish, and finally aubergine in French and English. The word Spanish has its origin in the Old Persian espenj, orange came from nârang, lemon came from limoo.

The Moghuls (Mongols) invaded Persia and adopted the language, cuisine and religion of their new land. Two hundred years later Tamerlane, a direct descendant of Genghiz Khan, set his sights on India and took with him the traditions of the Persian court and kitchen. Biryani is the Persian word for baked, nan was introduced to India by the Persians and was baked in a tanoor which later became a tandoor. It’s certain that India has changed the original Persian dishes and made them her own. They might have the same names but they are spicier now.

The recipes are divided by type with a chapter on bread being first. This might seem strange but bread has an almost mythical importance even in the modern Iranian home. It’s never wasted or allowed to fall to the floor. Left-overs are made into breadcrumbs rather than being thrown away.

There are delightful recipes here. They have subtle and aromatic flavours rather than being hot with spices. Rice dishes are held in high esteem but poorer families might only eat these on festival days. Rice with Herbs (Sabzi Polow) is perfumed with parsley, coriander, dill and chives. Rice with Dried Fruit and Nuts (Ajeel Polow) is substantial and delicious with minced lamb, crisp fried onions and dried cherries.

Kebabs are now familiar to us in the west. Margaret Shaida offers us a mouth-watering selection all of which will be more succulent and tasty than the dodgy examples found in late-night take-aways from Brighton to Beijing. Lamb Fillet Kebab is delicate and tender and you’ll notice the difference.

Pickles are traditionaly a big thing in Iranian homes so Margaret has included several interesting ones. Pickled Shallots are easy to produce although a bit time-consuming. Make large quantities of these and you’ll have something different to offer guests. Try them and you’ll agree they are worth the effort.

It’s always tempting to just jump directly into the recipes in cookbooks. Don’t do that with this book. You’ll miss so much fascinating information. Claudia Roden has said “...the background and history of the food is both a joy and a precious contribution to the world of gastronomy.” If you have a serious interest in food then you will find this book enchanting.


The Legendary Cuisine of Persia
Author: Margaret Shaida
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-902304-60-8
mostly food journal

Dorling Kindersley's "blogabeer"

This is going to be a regular item here at Mostly Food Journal - a review of beer in association with Dorling Kindersley's "blogabeer" project. Each week there will be a new beer reviewed by not only me but many other food and drink enthusiasts. You'll find the full blog and all the comments at www.blogabeer.co.uk.

Deuchars IPA


Deuchars IPA

A light amber colour with a reasonable head on pouring. This has a hoppy bitterness with a tang of lemon zest. Deuchars IPA has a steady fizz of small bubbles which gives this beer a light and summery appeal. The malty nose is pleasant and not overpowering. The aftertaste isn't long-lasting so this might be a beer to chose if beer isn't your usual tipple. This could be ideal served chilled at a BBQ. Deuchars IPA is a long way from a flat-cap-and-whippet style of beer.



mostly food journal

Great British Cheeses

This has got to be in my top ten books reviewed this year. If you love cheese you will not only like this book, you will need it, use it and probably take it with you on weekend trips away. Great British Cheeses by Jenny Linford is a veritable encyclopaedia of our finest cheeses. Irish Cheeses are also featured. great british cheeses

The photography by Will Heap is marvellous with crisp detailed pictures of every cheese mentioned. There are over three hundred of those and that’s a surprise. OK, so the French have a few more but their country is four times the size of the UK so I reckon that we are giving them a run for their money, not only in varieties per acre but also in quality.

Jenny has campaigned for high-quality, independently produced food since 1991. She has written books, articles and restaurant reviews and has founded Gastro-Soho Tours offering guided tours of London’s best cuisine.

This volume is an education. A comprehensive look at not only the cheeses themselves but also a history of cheese making, types of cheese and buying and serving cheese. There are chapters on Fresh, Soft, Semi-Soft, Hard and Blue cheeses so it’s easy to find just the type you are looking for.

The information here is amazing. Y-Fenni (I do love this cheese although it’s difficult to find outside South Wales) has a description of manufacture, texture and flavour, a location map and the picture. That’s not all... Size – D18cm, H5cm, Weight 1.5kg, Shape – wheel, Milk – pasteurized cows, Rennet – vegetarian, Type – modern. Jenny doesn’t tell us how many children the cheese producer has nor the names of the cows but I think those are the only omissions.

Each of the three hundred cheeses included in this volume has the same in-depth profile. You can see why I consider Great British Cheeses to be one of the most informative cheese books around. Our best cheeses are not copies of continental favourites but are unique to Britain and this book is a tool to enable you to choose the ones that you’ll enjoy most. Have a look in local cheese shops when you next take a few days away. There are some truly delicious surprises!

Great British Cheeses
Author: Jenny Linford
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-4053-3436-5
mostly food journal


The Cooking BookThe Cooking Book

This could just as easily be called “The BIG Cookbook”, “The Everything You Will Ever Need to Know About Cooking Cookbook” or “Recipes for the Culinarily Challenged”. The Cooking Book is a bumper volume with added extras.

Editor-in-chief Victoria Blashford-Snell has produced a book that is amazing both in format and in content. The “extras” include a 90-minute DVD which gives hand-holding instructions on cooking techniques. There is also a unique addition of a pocket shopping list for each recipe in the book, which saves you the bother of writing one yourself. What a great idea!

The Cooking Book has over 1000 recipes. The cover describes them as “favourite everyday recipes” but they are quite a bit more special than that. There is a definite international feel and the dishes are well chosen to be easy to prepare. Each one is clear with step-by-step instructions and cooking times. There are tantalising photographs for every recipe which help to give a vibrant feel to the book.

I am impressed by the dishes. They reflect modern tastes but include traditional favourites as well. It’s good to see sausages getting a mention. In these days of high food prices more of us are looking at cheaper cuts of meat, and the humble banger helps us spin out the housekeeping money. Sausage, Bacon and Egg Pie makes an attractive and tasty family meal. Fabada is a spicy Spanish sausage stew that would make a scrumptious dish for a casual dinner party. Some fresh crusty bread and a salad would be all you’d need to add.

We should all eat more fish and The Cooking Book offers, amongst others, Mackerel with Cucumber Salad - that’s still a reasonably priced fish. Stuffed Sardines in Vine Leaves would be a delight when the weather is good enough for a barbecue, or Fisherman’s Tuna Stew for when it’s not. Plan to eat a lot of this next summer!

The Cake and Dessert section is mouth-watering. Caramel Apple and Almond Tart is a delicious change from the more usual Pear and Almond Tart. Autumn Fruit Tart has the feel of an old-fashioned pud. Apples, pears and blackberries are always a great combination and this looks as good as it tastes.

The Cooking Book is a complete and broad-based recipe book that is ideal for either the novice cook or the experienced culinary hand. A smashing family cookbook.


The Cooking Book
Author: Victoria Blashford-Snell
Published by Dorling Kindersley
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-3222-4
mostly food journal

Stylish Thai in Minutes

Stylish Thai in Minutes

You gotta love it - any cookbook that is called, “No Stress”, “2 Ingredients”, “A Meal in a Moment” or “No Cooking Cookbook”. This book truly is Stylish Thai in Minutes and it had my vote before I even opened the cover. I love cooking but I don’t want to spend all my time in the kitchen. A bit of time in the dining room is my goal!

Vatcharin Bhumichitr is probably one of the UK’s most celebrated Thai restaurateurs and authors. His career started in the 70s and he has gone from strength to strength with various food-related projects. He is well respected within the industry and his books are always well received.

Stylish Thai in Minutes is a large-format and sumptuous book with Martin Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit supplying the photographs. This collaboration has also produced stunning results for others of Vatch’s cookbooks. There are over 120 recipes that will encourage you to try this marvellously attractive and flavourful cuisine.

Thai food is becoming more popular in the UK. There are many more restaurants and ingredients are more readily available than ever. Thailand has become a popular tourist destination. Those same tourists want to make authentic Thai food at home and Vatcharin Bhumichitr is an authentic Thai cookbook author.

The dishes are divided by type. The chapters start with Appetisers and Snacks and continue through Salads and Soups, Curries and Main Dishes, Noodles and Rice, to Fruit, Desserts and Drinks. The recipes are clear and easy to follow with both cooking and preparation times indicated. Apart from the recipes there are stunning pictures and articles about Thai culture and arts. Vatch’s pride in his homeland is evident.

But it’s the food you are most interested in. The thought of meals that take 30 minutes or less to prepare will have already caught your attention. There is nothing here that is either difficult or time-consuming but the food is uncompromising in its deliciousness.

Heavenly Beef (Nua Sawan) only has five ingredients and takes five minutes to cook. OK, so the meat needs to marinade for an hour but you don’t need to keep it company. Vatch says that in Thailand after marinating the meat is left in the sun for a day to dry. That might be difficult to do in the UK!

Pork with Garlic and Peppercorns is spicy and hot from the pepper rather than the usual chillies. You will love this one, dear reader! Only 3 minutes preparation time and 5 minutes cooking time and it does look stylish.

Stylish Thai in Minutes is a gentle introduction to Thai cooking and I’ll be delving into its lovely pages often.


Stylish Thai in Minutes
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-537-9
mostly food journal

Food GLorious FoodFood GLorious Food

No, it’s not a mistake. Food GLorious Food is the correct title for this book. Note the GL. That’s the clue. This is full of low-GL recipes and I am sure that is music to your ears if you only knew what GL was, either high, low or average. I confess that I wasn’t sure!.

GL is short for glycemic load and though it’s not talked about as often as, say, fat, carbohydrate or even glycemic index it remains key to health. It all sounds very technical but the authors of Food GLorious Food, Patrick Holford and Fiona McDonald Joyce, give us all the information to allow us to make good choices.

Patrick is one of the UK’s leading nutrition experts and has penned 30 or so books on healthy living. He is a media spokesman on nutrition and has 2 million hits on his web site (www.patrickholford.com) every year. Fiona is a nutritional therapist and cookery consultant.

Food GLorious Food is divided into two parts. The first is the facts on healthy eating and nutrition. You might be tempted to skip this section but it’s important to know how food works. It’s not just volume of food that encourages weight gain but it’s the combination of food types that causes health problems.

Part two of this book is what you’ll want to delve into. Have a nice cup of tea and put your feet up. Relax and read some scrumptious recipes that happen to be good for you. These dishes don’t have that “your body is a temple so make a sacrifice” sort of feel. These are seriously great recipes that you will want to eat because they are delicious.

It’s quite an international selection of dishes. Thai Steamed Prawn Pots, Chicken Satay, Greek-style Stuffed Pork Tenderloin are just a few of the exotic recipes and they are all simple to prepare and flavourful. This food is far from dull. It mirrors modern eating trends and tastes.

We all know that we should be eating more fish, and Food GLorious Food has a good selection of fish dishes. Seared Harissa Tuna Steak is spicy and easy to make. Seared Salmon with Garlic and Coriander is fresh and light.

Vegetarians will be pleased to know that they are not forgotten. Baked Falafel is a healthy alternative to the fried traditional. Chickpea and Cauliflower Curry is rich and comforting and the authors tell us to use the full-fat coconut milk. I love this book!

We should all be thinking about what we eat. Food prices are high so let’s get the most out of our groceries. You don’t have to spend a lot to eat well. You just need to have support and advice. Food GLorious Food will give you all you need to make informed choices and enjoy doing it.


Food GLorious Food
Authors: Patrick Holford and Fiona McDonald Joyce
Published by: Little Brown Book Group, Piatkus
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7499-0995-6
mostly food journal

500 Cocktails500 cocktails

Apple Press has a series of books and all are called 500 something or other. They are great value, chunky books and this one, 500 Cocktails, is no exception. The photographs of these classy drinks are gorgeous. Ian Garlick has done a great job. Wendy Sweetser is the author, and she is an expert on the subject. She has spent many, I presume happy, years developing cocktails on a professional basis and she is the author of another 15 food and drink related books.

If you enjoy the classic cocktails then you might like to try mixing those and more contemporary cocktails at home. It’ll be cheaper and a lot more fun, although you might not want to spin bottles and juggle shakers unless you have invested in a nice big tarpaulin along with the spirits. The recipes are easy. This isn’t cooking it’s mixing, and it’s difficult to get wrong (even the mistakes will probably taste great!). There is a bit of equipment that might come in handy and the correct glasses are always nice but then you are ready to give lovely parties.

Summer is over and we might not naturally think of cocktails as part of our entertaining. Well, think again, dear reader. 500 Cocktails is full of drinks that are perfect of any time of year and any occasion. So picture this. A cold night in Glasgow, snow falling and you’re sipping a warm Spiced Hot Toddy. There are five variations of this, each one with a slightly different fruit flavour. Mulled Wine has got to be popular as you sing (..er, perhaps not) around the Christmas tree. The alternatives include Gluhwein, Julglogg, The Bishop, Mulled Rum Punch and Mulled Ale. The delight of this series of books is that once you have found a favourite recipe you can experiment with slightly different versions because each recipe has four or five suggestions.

There are so many recipes here, 500, as the book says. You might like the idea of having a themed cocktail party. How about All American? There is a list of drinks that would work: Cape Codder, Long Island Iced Tea (this is NOT tea), Cosmopolitan, which has been made famous by those raunchy ladies from Sex and the City, and a Manhattan must be included.

500 Cocktails is a chubby volume that will have you tending bar like a pro.... from Absinthe Montmartre to Zombie.


500 Cocktails
Author: Wendy Sweetser
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-271-3
mostly food journal

Ballymaloe Cookery CourseBallymaloe Cookery Course

If you only want to own and use one cookbook then you should consider the Ballymaloe Cookery Course. It’s a hefty tome but it’s big for a reason. It’s got probably more information than most of us will ever need. A real one-stop cooking manual.


Darina Allen has endeared herself to millions all over the world with her on-screen charm and sunny disposition. Her Ballymaloe cookery school has been a resounding success and this book is the portable version of that popular establishment.

There is nothing missing, nothing left to chance. Nigel Slater of the Observer says “Lovely recipes and plenty of help for the new cook.” It has a solid and convincing feel. Darina has a fine reputation and writes in a style which is clear and conversational. The photographs by Ray Main and Peter Cassidy are many and marvellous with ample step-by-step illustrations. Storecupboard ingredients and temperature and weight conversion charts, as well as basic stock recipes are also included.

Apart from looking at the pretty pictures you will probably want to cook from this book. Although this is a complete cookery bible it’s not old-fashioned and the recipes cover not only the traditional but also newer trends and ethnic dishes. There is everything here from oranges to offal. The choice of recipes is staggering: 1100 delicious dishes should be enough to keep even the keenest cook going for a good while.

So let’s eat! Some recipes are Ballymaloe Cookery School originals but there are a thousand others as well. There are some traditional Irish dishes but lots of other international recipes. North Indian Fruit Chat, Petits Pots de Gibier (a savoury custard), Yakiniku (marinated beef), Vietnamese Pork and Lemongrass Patties are just a few of the more exotic offerings.

Ballymaloe Cookery Course is just what the title says. It’s a book that takes you through a wide spectrum of kitchen skills. You are supplied with all the technical advice and culinary support that you’ll need to become a confident and competent cook. Include this book on your “must have” list of cookbooks. This would make an ideal gift for anyone leaving home and starting a life without mum as a kitchen fixture.


Ballymaloe Cookery Course
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-85626-729-8
mostly food journal

Easy Japanese Cookbook

Easy Japanese

This isn’t just a large format volume, it’s a seriously large format complete with a CD of traditional Japanese music to listen to while you are either cooking or sitting cross-legged in agony at your coffee table pretending to be eating at a tea house in Nagoya.

Easy Japanese Cookbook is not only seriously large it’s seriously beautiful, with huge colour pictures by William Lingwood. The text is clear and the recipes easy to follow. Each one has preparation time and cooking time clearly marked. It’s a wire-bound cookbook which gives the advantage of staying open on the counter. No need for bottles of Sake balanced at the corners.

The author, Emi Kazuko, has penned several cookbooks (her book Street Cafe Japan was made into a TV series for UK Style) and is no stranger to BBC radio. It’s obvious that she appreciates that Japanese cuisine is new to many of us in the UK. Emi leads us through every aspect from ingredients, cooking methods, equipment and basic recipes to appetizers, main courses, etc. The menu section will tell you all you need to know about putting together an authentic Japanese meal.

Japanese food might not be as familiar to us as, say, Indian or even Thai but just a quick flick through the pages and you’ll see that it is easy. Nothing here takes much hands-on effort. There are a few recipes that demand a few hours marinade time but you don’t have to sit and watch the food as it soaks, do you?

Ginger Pork with Rocket Salad is an old-established and popular dish in Japan. It couldn’t be simpler. It takes 15 minutes to prepare, 10 minutes marinade time and 10 minutes to cook. It won’t break the bank, it’s authentic and it’s a lovely family meal.

Most of us will know the name Sukiyaki. No, not the Japanese pop song released in Japan in 1961 and in the US and UK in 1963 and sung by Kyu Sakamoto, killed in a plane crash in 1985 (Impressed aren’t you?). No, this is the classic dish cooked in a cast iron pan at the table. It’s a delicious combination of beef and vegetables. It couldn’t be easier...your guests will be doing the cooking.

Anyone who wants to try Japanese food at home will find all they need in Easy Japanese Cookbook. It will take away the terror for beginners and supply the more practised with lovely recipes... and some nice music as well.


Easy Japanese Cookbook
Author: Emi Kazuko
Published by: Duncan Baird
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84483-656-7
mostly food journal

Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals

This book presents the acceptable face of fast food. The Quick and Easy series of cookbooks are always good value and Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals is another gem. These books spend more time in the kitchen than they do on your smart bookshelf. Easy 20 minute meals

We would all love the luxury of unlimited time to devote to food preparation but that’s not the real world. Your 6 year old needs a quick meal before you take him for after-school Latin, your 9 year old only has an hour at home before he needs to be at ballet class. You want to feed the family good food but fast.

This, dear reader, isn’t rocket science but Catherine Atkinson offers good advice (she does with all her books) to enable you to save time but present delicious and healthy meals. There is information about setting up a storecupboard with the basics, storage and freezing, and planning ahead. A few pages of reading and you’ll be ready to start cooking.

Cutting back on preparation time doesn’t mean cutting down on taste, comfort or quality of meals. There are lovely recipes here that compromise nothing for the sake of speed. You’ll find chapters on snacks and light meals, meats, fish, and vegetarian. Something for everyone.

Fish Fingers and Beans doesn’t sound like it should have a place in a cookbook. Take the time to read the recipe and you’ll find that this is quite a classy meal with cannellini beans, olives, sweet chilli sauce and pitta bread. Spicy Seafood Pasta is a posh alternative to fish fingers, and you’ll be eating in only 15 minutes.

The vegetarian section offers Mixed Vegetable Stir-fry with Teriyaki Tofu. It’s exotic with rich flavours but still only takes 20 minutes to make a meal for four. Staying with the oriental theme, Hoisin Pork Skewers would make a spectacular presentation for either a fast meal or as a starter.

Dessert is often forgotten when you are pressed for time. Fresh fruit or yoghurt always seems such a cheat so how about Hot Chocolate Pots or Pear and Cinnamon Tarts? How impressed will your friends be when you apologise for ONLY preparing Mango and Lime Syllabub!

Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals is a well-written and useful cookbook. The only thing you will dislike is that you will no longer have lack of time as an excuse for not cooking. The guy at the local take-away will think you have moved.


Quick and Easy 20-minute Meals
Author: Catherine Atkinson
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03486-3
mostly food journal

Wise Words and Country Ways for Cookswise words and country ways for cooks

Our language is full of sayings that cover almost every aspect of life. A stitch in time saves nine, All’s well that ends well, Money talks, Like father – like son, It’s a long way to Tipperary...er,...or something like that. Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks, however, focuses on kitchen-based wisdom and gives some sensible and enduring advice on all things culinary.

Ruth Binney has evident enthusiasm for the collection of this old-time kitchen lore and has produced a book that has a real retro feel about it. It has a style that will be familiar to those of us of a certain age who had access to original 1950s cookbooks, but there is much here that reflects kitchen practice of a century before that. It’s charming.

There are wonderfully evocative sections such as “A woman who has mastered sauces sits on the apex of civilization”, “A Tart Tatin served cold has no merits.” (Now, that’s a bit strong!), “A salad dressing requires a spendthrift for oil, a judge for salt, a miser for vinegar and a madman to mix them.” All very colourful but there is some solid instruction here on cooking techniques.

Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks isn’t a recipe book but it’s got plenty of tips for cooks. There is advice from some celebrated food writers: Fannie Merritt Farmer writes about frosting (icing), Tabitha Tickletooth (I kid you not) focuses on fish and Shirley Conran will always be remembered for her statement that “Life is too short to stuff a mushroom.”

Aside from the quotes from the noteworthy the rest of the book is pure Ruth Binney. She is a lady who knows her stuff and has a compelling way with words. This volume revels in nostalgia but it’s a book that works not only as an amusing read but as a reminder that advice that was good decades ago is still just as valid today. It will be ideal for lovers of kitchen memorabilia.


Wise Words and Country Ways for Cooks
Author: Ruth Binney
Published by: David and Charles
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-07153-3008-1
mostly food journal

Simple Pleasures

Simple Pleasures

I find myself on the horns of a dilemma! I’ll explain, dear reader. This is a marvellous book, Simple Pleasures – Edible Gifts for Friends and Family to give its full title, but there is a problem. Should I give this book as Christmas gifts to all my friends, or should I use the recipes to make presents for the aforementioned chums?

There are a few books around that give ideas for edible presents but this is the first that I have come across that gives such detailed instructions on wrapping, tagging and box making. The finished results are very professional and will add so much to the presentation of your lovely cooking.

So how about the recipes? Well, they are broad-based and charming. I would be tickled to be the recipient of any of them. There are several categories which cover Jams, Preserves and Chutneys, Cakes and Biscuits, Sweets and Chocolates, and Drinks and Accompaniments. You are bound to find a suitable gift for those special people in your life.

There are recipes that you would expect in this type of book. Chocolate truffles have always been a favourite homemade gift so its inclusion is no surprise, but there are some great new ideas. Cranberry and Orange Preserve will be great with the Boxing Day cold cuts as would East India Chutney. Preserved Lemons Moroccan-style is a stunner and a bit exotic.

If sweet treats are more to your taste then there is plenty on offer. Buttered Brazil Nuts, Cinder Toffee and Brown Sugar Fudge will make a change from a Selection Box but don’t forget those friends whose eyes will only light up at the sight of a bottle-shaped parcel. Limoncello, Flavoured Vodkas and Crème de Cassis are among the list of “adult” delights. My choice is a pretty bottle of Winter Liqueur with warming cloves, cinnamon and allspice.

After careful consideration I have decided to give this book as an early Christmas present to my friends in the hopes that they will have the opportunity to make these jams, drinks and sweets in time to box them up and send them to me! You’ll hear no complaints! This is a gift that offers as much to the giver as to the receiver.


Simple Pleasures
Authors: Stephanie Evans, Andrew Franks, Susanna Tee
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-293-5
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Vatch’s Thai Street FoodThai Street Food

This is a lovely large-format volume with brilliant food and travelogue photography by Martin Brigdale and Somachi Phongphaisarnkit. Vatch is in fact Vatcharin Bhumichitr who is probably the most celebrated Thai chef in the UK. He has been cooking and running restaurants in Britain since 1976.

Thailand has a vibrant and active street food culture with most Thais eating from stalls at least once a day. The dishes have a reputation for being both attractive and delicious and are so popular with tourists that some consider eating street food as the highlight of a trip.

Cooking Thai food at home might be a new challenge for many of us. Perhaps “challenge” is the wrong word: these dishes aren’t complicated but you’ll be introduced to a few new ingredients, although these will be found in larger high street supermarkets. The cooking techniques will hold no terrors.

Vatch starts us off with the preparation of the basic red and green curry pastes. There are many good quality ready-made pastes available these days so don’t be put off. There is a comprehensive store cupboard and fresh ingredient list. There isn’t much special equipment although a large mortar and pestle would be handy.

The recipes are divided by location. Bangkok is the obvious choice for the first chapter and this is followed by The Sea, The North and The Northeast. The dishes reflect the ingredients popular in each area but they all look scrumptious.

I am so pleased to find a recipe for White Radish Cake with Beansprouts. This might sound a strange concoction but trust me, it’s delicious. It’s easy to make and works well as either part of a meal or as a dim sum if served with chilli sauce.

Grilled Chicken with Sweet Chilli Sauce couldn’t be simpler to make. It’s lip-smacking scrumptious and is sure to become a favourite. Deep-fried Spare Ribs will be another recipe I’ll use often. The ribs are tasty and versatile as they remain a delightful snack even when cold and are ideal as exotic picnic fare.

Fish Cakes with Fresh Pickle (Tod Man Pla) will be a dish familiar to most tourists. The flavour and texture will be sure to revive memories of markets and saffron-robed monks in Bangkok. These little morsels make such a delightful presentation with the pickle served in a separate little bowl of, preferably, blue and white Thai design.

Vatch has penned a lovely book that introduces us to an easily accessible part of everyday Thai life. Reading Vatch’s Thai Street Food might just encourage you to think more seriously about that long-planned holiday!


Vatch’s Thai Street Food
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-402-5
mostly food journal

Irish Traditional Cooking

Irish Traditional Cooking

Darina Allen is surely one of the most celebrated Irish cooks of our time. If she isn’t then it’s probable that whoever you might consider worthy of that accolade also has the name of Allen: it’s quite a dynasty. There is no doubt though that Darina must win the contest of quickest smile and she has been described as the Irish Delia Smith.

Irish Traditional Cooking is a lovely book which Nigel Slater says “...is the equivalent of being given a big hug.” It might sound a strange thing to say of a cookbook but turn a few pages and you will feel a real glow as you imagine these comforting dishes. It’s not only this humble writer that has appreciated its quality. Irish Traditional Cooking has won the acclaimed Langhe Ceretto-SEI prize.

This is a marvellous collection of over 300 recipes. The charm of it is that we hear a little of the history of many of these dishes and learn something of the people that have passed these recipes on to Darina. Food is, after all, a catalyst for memories of special events and loved ones. Irish Traditional Cooking has contributions from frayed and ancient cookbooks as well as friends, family and professionals.

These recipes are a treat. The ingredients are simple but the dishes are flavourful, comforting, not over-taxing to prepare. Traditional recipes are sure to be good as they have already withstood the test of time. There is even a recipe for tripe that sounds tempting and I didn’t think you would ever hear me say that!

I will, over the next weeks, be grazing my way through this book. I’ll probably start with Beef and Guinness Stew or will it be Ballymaloe Spiced Beef? No, no, I’ll go with the Pot Roasted Pork Steaks. It’s not that easy to pick favourites. Buy the book and you’ll work your way from cover to cover just as I intend to.

Irish Traditional Cooking has all the usual suspects, those dishes you would have heard of, but there are so many more that have obviously been regulars on Irish tables for years. Plum Cakes, home-made cheeses, Goose Pudding and Irish Stew Pie are just some of the dishes that are a bit different from the potatoes that you were no doubt expecting.

Darina has penned what is probably the definitive Irish Cookbook. Anyone who recognises the value of traditional cooking will enjoy this. This is home cooking at its best.


Irish Traditional Cooking
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-497-6
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Ricelands – The World of South-East Asian FoodRicelands

Michael Freeman must be one of the most celebrated and prolific photographers around. Ricelands is his latest book (there are over 100 others) but this one isn’t about photography. Have a look at michaelfreemanphoto.com for more of his work.

Michael says of this book: “In it, I write about a subject close to my heart and even closer to my stomach - the culture of food in South-east Asia. Learn about one of the world's tastiest regional cuisines and how it's really prepared and eaten in homes, not at all the same as in restaurants in the West. And there are two hundred of my photographs, as well.”

This is an exquisite volume from the award-winning photographer who is our guide through the cuisines of eight South-east Asian countries. Thailand, Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia, Malaysia,  Laos, The Philippines and Indonesia are all represented with the most sumptuous pictures.

This man has obviously gone to some considerable trouble to research some of the dishes that we tourists are bound to seek out. Of a rather large insect, Michael writes “Cooked to perfection, it should be rather more chewy than crisp on the outside, with plenty of rich, gravy-like liquid remaining inside.”...Um, perhaps later!

But amusing observations aside, this is indeed a well-written and well-researched book. Michael has a light and very readable style and his love of food is evident. There are 20 or so recipes at the back of the book that are tempting. Chilli Crab from Singapore is a robust and thoroughly delicious dish which will conjure images of sultry evenings with the aroma of damp vegetation and jasmine floating on the air.

Ricelands – The World of South-east Asian Food is an absorbing read and will be appreciated not only by lovers of Asian food but by travellers who want to be transported back to this remarkable part of the world.

This is a marvellous travelogue especially appealing to those of us who want to know about the “real” food of this region. So much here is new and fascinating and for that reason alone this would be an inspired gift for anyone lucky enough to be flying off to South-east Asia.

I think that Michael Freeman has missed his vocation. He should pursue a career as a food writer and produce a lot more illustrated books of this quality.


Ricelands – The World of South-East Asian Food
Author: Michael Freeman
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £17.95
ISBN 978-1-86189-378-9
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Mary Berry - Desserts

Mary Berry is one of those few cooks who has remained current and popular despite the fads and fashions of the fickle food industry. Mary has over 60 books to her name! Now that must be worth some kind of a medal...or at least a mention on your favourite foodie Internet site. Her perennial appeal relies on quality and hard work, and Desserts is the end result of both those attributes. Mary Berry Desserts

This volume has a wealth of recipes that are guaranteed to work. Mary has been voted among the top 3 by BBC Good Food for the category “Most Reliable Celebrity Cook Books”. Desserts also has the advantage of fine step-by-step photographs. For that reason alone this book should become a best seller. The timid and inexperienced home cook is led painlessly through every stage of the recipe.

Mary covers the whole gamut of desserts. The recipes are divided by type – Special Desserts, Cakes, Pies, etc. I found it difficult to choose some favourites as each recipe is so well presented and photographed by David Murray – he did a superb job. But I managed: I don’t think there is a single sweet delight here that wouldn’t be a winner. One of the easiest of this collection has got to be Cherries Glacés. This is a lovely dessert to make ahead of time, and it’s a stunner. It has a “why didn’t I think of that” order of simplicity. It’s a good illustration of why Mary Berry continues to do what she does, and the rest of us just enjoy the results.

Mincemeat and Pear Flan would be a great alternative to mince pies at Christmas. Once again a simple recipe but Mary manages to think outside the box of tradition. There are still plenty of the usual dessert suspects and this book is given balance by their inclusion.

Desserts is packed with lovely recipes but its strength lies in the detailed instructions. There are several pages of chocolate cake decorations, fancy pastry edges, fruit tartlets, biscuit decoration. Mary has taken as much trouble over presentation as over the desserts themselves. You’ll be producing professional-looking puds with confidence in no time at all.

Desserts is destined to become a standard. It’s an attractive book with over 200 scrumptious recipes to inspire and entice.


Desserts
Author: Mary Berry
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-3434-1
mostly food journal

In Praise of PoteenIn praise of Poteen

What exactly is Poteen or Poitín? If you are Irish then you’ll already know. If you are American then you will recognise the same beverage under the name of Moonshine. Yes, dear reader, it’s the intoxicating illegal liquor of the Emerald Isle and has a history steeped in folkloric charm and myth.

In Praise of Poteen by John McGuffin is an entertaining read of the bitter-sweet variety. Its subject matter lends itself to comic interludes but also introduces us to the harsh reality of the Irish poor. Many dangers were encountered in not only the manufacture of the drink but also the consumption of the aforementioned hooch.

In 1854 a revenue officer claimed “the average Poitín maker can clear 3 shillings (15p) a gallon profit”. The officer also stated that this wasn’t as good as in 1818 when “deducting all their losses, expenses and risks, together with bribes paid to the revenue officers, the Poitín maker makes £1 for each day he works”. Nice to think that a cottage industry supported all members of the community!

It seems to have been a popular and profitable pastime and one that landlords were reluctant to stamp out. The reason for turning a blind eye had nothing to do with desire to allow tenants to throw the occasional party but had everything to do with the fact that the income from the drink was often the only method of making money enough to pay the landlord his rent.

The by-products of Poteen were put to good use. The first run was very strong and almost undrinkable, so was considered as a balm for cuts and sprains. The waste was fed to cattle and anyone with cows in peak condition was suspected of involvement with the illegal industry.

A rather dangerous by-product was ether, which was also used as a drink in Ulster. This was truly nasty stuff and difficult to consume without drinking a glass of water before, a glass of water after and holding one’s nose during the exercise. The period of intoxication only lasted about twenty minutes and didn’t leave a hangover so you could get drunk on ether a dozen times a day! That’s a “sobering” thought!

In Praise of Poteen is a fascinating read. Its style is rich and amusing and it is sure to be a classic. Generations of Poteen producers have gone but this book remains as an unsentimental reminder of a colourful element of Irish history.


In Praise of Poteen
Author: John McGuffin
Published by Appletree Press, Belfast
Price: £8.99
ISBN 0-86281-768-4
mostly food journal

A Summer in Gascony

This is one of the most charming books ever written about the South of France. A summer in Gascony – Discovering the Other South of France, to give it the full title, is all about south-west France, the opposite side of the country to the trendy and much more expensive Nice and the Cote d’Azur. A summer in Gascony

I know this part of the country very well and I can vouch for the quirkiness of the region that Martin Calder documents so well. The language IS still French but with a difference. The name Martin might seem simple to pronounce for us Brits and indeed the majority of the French population, but he became Martaing to Martin’s local friends. (Should have rechristened himself with an easy Gallic name like...er, Vercingétorix.)

Martin spends a summer working in Gascony and encounters characters who are warm, hospitable and full of humour. It’s a different pace of life from that of Paris or other big cities and Martin’s experiences were richer for it. Yes, the natives were friendly and there is even a hint of romance in the shape of a lovely German lass called Anja.

Jacques-Henri, a farmer and Martin’s employer, and his family are welcoming and give Martin a home for the summer. Even the stray dog Pattes (paws) is pleased to have him around. They, together, provide the backdrop to the season’s adventure.

There are wonderful food-filled interludes with plenty of paing et du vaing (bread and wine) but also Cassoulet, cornichons and the Mechoui which is a North African whole roast lamb so often the centre-piece of large gatherings and celebrations. There is an evening of Pastis and Peanuts and many encounters with live livestock and dead livestock. This is still France, where food is pivotal.

A Summer in Gascony offers a realistic look at southern French life. Martin describes the authentic French Market Day as not just resplendent in peppers and garlic but also seriously big knickers. This is a book filled with scenes that will make you smile.

Martin Calder has managed to capture the flavour of Gascony. It is independent and coulourful. Its people embrace outsiders who appreciate its unique history and heritage. This is a lovely holiday read or a book to inspire next year’s tour de France.


A Summer in Gascony
Author: Martin Calder
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-506-4
mostly food journal

The World’s Best RestaurantsThe worlds best restaurants

The S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards is considered by some to be a benchmark for fine dining. Its winners are chosen by prominent food writers, critics, publishers and the great and the good of the food industry. Although the awards have been running since 2002 there has been no comprehensive guide to the winning restaurants. This volume addresses that shortcoming.

Although The S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards lists, as it says, the 50 best, there are a full one hundred restaurants included in this directory. There are the 50 runners up who should also be considered as not too shabby. This is an award covering the whole world so to even be mentioned is an accolade in itself.

The Fat Duck in Bray, UK is number two in the pecking order. Heston Blumenthal is head chef along with Ashley Palmer-Watts. The joy of this book is that there is a whole lot of fascinating information. Did you know, dear reader, that Heston was once a debt collector while he was teaching himself to cook? It’s good to read about personal success through sheer hard work and passion. It’s inspiring!

Each of the top 50 restaurants has a biography of the chef and enough of an insight into the particulars of the restaurant to enable you to judge whether it might be just the spot when a special meal is what’s wanted. You’ll already know that the restaurants are of a universally high standard but you need to know about the chef’s culinary philosophy and style.

There is a Lifetime Achievement Award each year and the winner for 2008 is Gualtiero Marchesi who is a handsome 78 year old restaurateur who has been the recipient of many honours including being a Knight of the Italian Republic. Previous winners are: 2005 the great Paul Bocuse, 2006 Albert and Michel Roux, and 2007 Alice Waters who has been a huge influence on the culinary landscape of America.

This is an amazing read. If you love fine food you’ll find it utterly absorbing. Each chef has devoted himself to the pursuit of excellence and has, in some cases, overcome obstacles that would have thwarted lesser mortals. The World’s Best Restaurants is informative, well written and a great showcase for exceptional achievement.


The World’s Best Restaurants
Authors: Various
Published by: Think Books (Pan Macmillan)
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84525-057-7
mostly food journal

Tasting Italy – A Culinary Journey

This is another of those smart chunky books from Haus Publishing who only present top-notch works, and Tasting Italy by Alice Vollenweider is amongst them. Tasting Italy

Italy has a reputation as a food paradise. Not only because there is an abundance of quality fresh produce but because the Italian housewife sets high standards in both market and restaurant. It has been argued that Italy has the highest general standard for restaurant food in Europe. It might be mostly Italians that argue, though, and they are indeed very good at it!

This is a marvellously well-written travelogue with a good selection of classic Italian recipes. All the main regions of Italy are included so you have a comprehensive guide to all things culinary, and quite a bit on Italian literature, history and culture. Alice walks us through city streets and even suggests favourite eateries.

The author’s words paint pictures of Italian food in a truly charming and mouthwatering fashion. She writes this of a stay with friends in Florence: “I still clearly remember climbing up beautiful narrow stone steps all the way to the seventh floor with my suitcase before entering the enormous bare living room, with a fire burning in the grate and a spit turning. This friend welcomed me with a meal I shall never forget. It consisted of just grilled meat, unsalted country bread and pure, good Chianti.”

Tasting Italy has recipes that are authentic and tempting. They are conveniently indexed at the back of the book for easy retrieval when you decide that, yes, a real Italian meal is tonight’s plan. There are around eighty recipes so there will be something for every taste. They honestly are not technically challenging but are very flavourful, with the expected Italian flair for the elegant rustic.

There are quite a few familiar dishes here: Minestrone, Panna Cotta, Risotto alla Milanese but there are so many others that might be new delights: Spaghetti alla Puttanesca or Whores’ Spaghetti is robust and full bodied... just like many of its namesakes! Cassata alla Siciliana or Sicilian Ricotta Cake is so simple but a real stunner for the end of your Italian dinner party.

This is an enjoyable insight into the Italian attitude to food and eating. It’s a book to take with you on your next trip.


Tasting Italy – A Culinary Journey
Author: Alice Vollenweider
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-905791-44-6
mostly food journal

Tea – A Journey in TimeTea a jurney in time

This gorgeous large volume deserves to be right alongside your encyclopaedia and atlas. Tea – A Journey in Time, Pioneering and Trials in the Jungle has a classic, almost Victorian, feel and it is a visual pleasure.

The author is a gentleman by the name of John Weatherspoon and it’s only by the turn of very good fortune that he was able to write this book, or indeed any other. John comes from a family of tea planters. When young he lived in Malaya in a bungalow which was broken into by a man-eating tiger. The family dog slept by the open bedroom door and consequently it was he who became a late supper for the aforementioned cat, rather than the lucky John. It’s real Boys Own stuff!

Tea – A Journey in Time is written in a style that is appropriate to the subject and utterly charming. John evokes a bygone age but also introduces us to the modern tea industry and plantations. It must be the most thorough and impressive work on Tea ever published.

Aside from the engaging text, the illustrations are a formidable collection and span centuries of plantation life. Each page is a tightly woven tapestry of prose, prints and photos which give the impression of a quality and well-researched tome. There can’t be anything that has escaped John’s attention. He seems to have been meticulous.

John Weatherspoon has given us a rich picture not only of the history and mechanics of tea production but of the lives of the planters and their workers. There is a fascinating ghost story, a tale of Nobby and the Four-Poster Bed, A Planter’s poem penned in 1931 and many more plantation-related anecdotes.

It’s easy to take our regular cuppa for granted. I promise that you’ll regard that favourite beverage with a bit more respect after reading a few chapters of this book. The dangers and privations were many and it took courage and fortitude to make a success of a tea plantation. “Many came with hopes of making a fortune in tea, others for the sheer challenge and adventure of it all; only those who had actually arrived in the jungle knew better – that the life of a planter had its drawbacks.”

Tea – A Journey in Time is an amazing book and utterly praiseworthy.


Tea – A Journey in Time
Author: John Weatherspoon
Published by: Quiller Publishing (JJG Publishing)
Price: £28.00
ISBN 978-1-899163-85-4
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The Complete Traditional Recipe BookThe complete traditional recipe book

This is a hefty tome that will make you smile as soon as you flick through the pages. It’s a pure joy and Sarah Edington’s collection of over 300 recipes represents the best of British cooking. It’s from The National Trust and that always means a seriously good read.

There is probably nobody better placed than Sarah to write The Complete Traditional Recipe Book. Besides food writing, she is a London qualified Blue Badge Tourist Guide and she arranges London-based food tours, on foot or with wheels, historic or otherwise. These have included a walking tour in historic Southwark coupled with a visit to Borough Market, in-depth visits to the Tudor kitchens of Hampton Court, and a tour of the service quarters of Petworth House in Sussex.

Cookbooks are big business these days and there is the temptation to change traditional recipes just to update them, to make them seem modern and trendy. Perhaps we should consider that anything that has been around long enough to be called “traditional” has lasted because it was good to start with. Sarah has kept faith with the original recipes and they are everything that you would expect.

This is the cookbook you will snuggle down with when it’s cold, wet and windy (probably a Wednesday in August) and want some cheering. The recipes are mouth-watering and unadulterated comfort. They are familiar and the sorts of dishes our grandmothers would have made. Good tasty fare with not a sniff of an over-boiled Brussels sprout.

Let me tempt you with some recipes! At last, a recipe for Haslet, a delicious and simple loaf of pork, onion, sage and mace. Much tastier than the shop-bought variety. Maids of Honour are scrumptious little tarts (now, that sounds unkind!) which were originally baked at the time of George II and Queen Caroline. But my very favourite is Homity Pies. These lovelies are so flavourful that they would entice card-carrying carnivores onto the path of vegetarianism... at least for an afternoon.

The Complete Traditional Recipe Book even feels like an old-fashioned quality cookbook. The pages are open and uncluttered. The recipes are clear and straightforward and they work! You’ll buy this book for its practical instruction and classic British food. I have a large collection of cookbooks but this will be amongst the dozen or so that stay in the kitchen.


The Complete Traditional Recipe Book
Author: Sarah Edington
Published by: Anova Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 10-190540042X
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The Slow Food StoryThe Slow Food Story

Anyone who is at all concerned about the “Fast Life” and “Fast Food” will want to read this book. The Slow Food Story – Politics and Pleasure is an in-depth look at the growing call for the moderation of modern lifestyle. The Slow Food Movement was set up in Italy as a response to the threat of fast food chains and supermarkets.

Fast Food is just a symptom of our craving for, or passive acceptance of, a high-speed, unhealthy existence. In this book, author Geoff Andrews sets the scene by quoting James Gleick, from his book Faster – The Acceleration of Just About Everything: “... Remote controls: their very existence, in the hands of a quick-reflexed, multi-tasking, channel-flipping, fast-forwarding citizenry, has caused acceleration in the pace of films and television commercials.”

It’s not possible to live a “successful” Fast Life without Fast Food. The Slow Food Movement isn’t against all fast food but they promote the concept of “slow fast food”. It has to do with sourcing of local ingredients, with no environmental degradation. We should be able to make choices that are healthy in food value as well as lifestyle.

Geoff presents the definition of the alternative to fast everything as described by Wendy Parkins and Geoffrey Craig: “...Slow living is not a return to the past, the good old days (pre McDonald’s arcadia), neither is it a form of laziness, nor a slow-motion version of life, nor possible only in romantic locations like Tuscany. Rather slow living is a process whereby everyday life – in all its pace and complexity, frisson and routine – is approached with care and attention...” Slot food into that philosophy and you have an idea as to what this is all about.

In The Slow Food Story Geoff Andrews offers us a positive option to the down-hill spiral of modern life. This isn’t a backlash against those golden arches but a suggestion that we need to take another look at what we are doing. 2001 statistics show that 110 billion dollars (yes, you heard right) was spent on fast food in the USA. That was more than was spent on movies, books, magazines, newspapers, video and music combined. Don’t you find that shocking?

It sounds like a heavy-weight subject but this is a well-written and absorbing book and essential reading for anyone who worries about the future and wants to do something about it.


The Slow Food Story – Politics and Pleasure
Author: Geoff Andrews
Published by: Pluto Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7453-2744-0
mostly food journal

India’s Vegetarian CookingIndias vegetarian Cooking

How does this woman do it? Monisha Bharadwaj presents us with the most gorgeous books, each one more sumptuous than the last. The photography of India by Jenner Zimmermann is stunning and the food photography by Will Heap is almost edible.

India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a regional guide to some of the most traditional and delectable recipes from every corner of the subcontinent. You will recognise some of them that have become popular restaurant fare but there are many more that will be new to most of us. There are, in fact, over 130 dishes which typify so much that is fine about Indian vegetarian cuisine.

India’s Vegetarian Cooking isn’t just a cookbook but it is liberally laced with Monisha’s poetic prose which will add so much to your understanding of the religious context, historic evolution and ayurvedic perspective of food in India. The author has been lucky in her choice of parents who encouraged their young daughter to try new foods and to appreciate them in their unique regional setting.

Monisha Bharadwaj writes with passion and evident pride about her love of all things culinary: “... my love of food and cooking developed. It was almost like a bud opening into a flower, the myriad taste sensations gradually becoming more and more distinct as I grew up.” Not only is this lady a fabulous cook but her writing is rich, colourful and evocative.... I think she models herself on me!

You’ll want to know a bit more about the food and I can tell you it’s scrumptious. Whilst not being a fully certified vegetarian, I don’t eat much meat and seldom eat red meat. These recipes would, however, entice even the most committed meat-eater with their flavourful ingredients and comforting textures. Each one is easy to follow and not expensive to produce.

I am a big fan of lentils of all types and Tangy Lentils with Crisp Bread (Dal Pakwan) is exceptional. But one of my all time favourites is Potato and Garlic Balls Encased in Batter (Batata Vada). It’s typical Mumbai street food with a lovely crisp outside and a soft tasty interior. There are so many recipes here that deserve a mention...well, probably 130 of them!

India’s Vegetarian Cooking is a “must have” for any lover of India and her food but also for the discerning collector of cookbooks. This is a classy book from a classy writer.


India’s Vegetarian Cooking
Author: Monisha Bharadwaj www.cookingwithmonisha.com
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-792-2
mostly food journal

I Was a Potato OligarchPotato Oligarch

What was this book about? To be honest the title didn’t tell me much – I Was a Potato Oligarch. Was it like being a Burger King? I knew what an Oligarch was...er, well, OK, looked it up and it’s one of a small number of individuals that run a state. So where does the humble spud come into this?

Our author and hero is John Mole, who has the idea that money could be made from fast food. It’s a popular trend in Russia and he was assured that he would be able to set up a company to sell filled baked potatoes, and would soon be reaping the benefits. Sounds simple, huh? If it had been that easy this book would only have been a pamphlet and not the funny story that it has turned out to be.

This writer has had extensive experience of dealing with people from the former eastern bloc countries and I personally would not touch a business partnership with a 10ft Volga boat pole. But John seems to be a man who will have a go at almost anything and at least he has a great book as reward for his adventure. And what an adventure!

We could be generous and describe the ordinary Russian as...um, ..unique. They have a particular perspective that has been born of hardship and indoctrination. John seems to have been a gift to so many of the more scheming sorts, and he was very naive. A kind-hearted chap, he buys a postcard from a beautiful woman on the street. She says she is a teacher and is looking after her invalid mother. He buys a map from her and then she offers to spend the night with him. That’s one of the sadder encounters, but most of the book is densely seeded with chuckles.

“...A big-boned, middle-aged woman in an ankle-length black leather coat and a Cossack fur hat, angular face and lidded black eyes and purple lips and a single eyebrow from ear to ear, a villain from a Marvel comic.” ...She was the doctor! Get the picture?

This is one of the most amusing travel books around. You don’t have to know any ex-soviets to appreciate the hilarious corners that John paints himself into...but if you have known any you will appreciate that John isn’t exaggerating! A real good read!


I Was a Potato Oligarch
Author: John Mole
Published by: Nicholas Brealey Publishing
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-509-5
mostly food journal

Calamity and Courage

Calamity and Courage – A Heroine of the Raj is another in my collection of fascinating books about India and all things Indian that I love so much. It also gave me a surprise as the setting for the aforementioned heroism is in fact the very part of India that my father knew so well – a remote area near the border with Burma. Calamity and courage

The author Belinda Morse is the great-granddaughter of the Victorian artist John Hanson Walker, who exhibited the portrait of Ethel Grimwood at the Royal Academy, and the search for that portrait is in itself an interesting journey.

Calamity and Courage is the story of Ethel Grimwood and Manipur and it’s a tragic tale of Government mismanagement and unnecessary loss of life. It’s the kind of story that would make a romantic adventure film, a cross between The Life of Florence Nightingale and The Far Pavilions.

There was a lot of family in-fighting around the court of the Maharaja of Manipur which necessitated the resignation of one Maharaja and the placement of another. The manipulation of events by the Indian Government (British Government in India) seemed to have rocked lots of boats, which led eventually to a massacre in 1891.

Ethel was marooned in the residence with a small force of armed men and an increasing number of injured. It became evident that they would all lose their lives if they stayed put so it was decided to start out under fire to seek help, not only for themselves but for those officers and men who were by that time held captive at the Maharaja’s palace.

After many days of hardship they were rescued by friendly forces and conducted to safety. It was, however, many weeks till Ethel discovered the fate of her husband and the other captives. The uprising against the British was big news and Ethel was given recognition for her service to the injured men. She was even invited to meet Queen Victoria (who took a great interest in events in India) to be awarded the Red Cross medal.

It seems that Ethel and her husband had a good relationship with the Indian Princes who had treated them not only with polite courtesy but with warm friendship and generosity. They seem to have been unwitting victims of political infighting and both suffered for the prejudices of those in authority.

Calamity and Courage is a book filled with Victorian attitudes but it presents Ethel as a young woman with a bit of grit and loyalty to the princes who were once so kind to her. An amazing read.


Calamity and Courage
Author: Belinda Morse
Published by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-215-1
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The Wagamama CookbookWagamama cookbook

This is the second Hugo Arnold Wagamama book that I have come across, the first being the gorgeous Wagamama – Ways with Noodles. I was impressed by that book and I have an equally good impression of this one. The photographs are almost edible and very stylish. Hugo is a self-confessed greedy man but he has half a dozen books to his name so he knows how to write a bit as well!

The whole Wagamama ethos is about simplicity and quality – quality not only of ingredients but also of presentation. The Wagamama Cookbook has a DVD attached and it leads you painlessly through the preparation of several dishes and their cooking techniques.

Wagamama isn’t just about noodles, although they are famed for them. The book introduces us to a whole host of dishes. There is plenty for vegetarians as you would expect, but there’s meat and fish, salads and side dishes, and even desserts.

A good example of a simple but punchy Wagamama recipe is Chicken Chilli Men. It’s soba noodles with chicken, courgette, green pepper, onion, spring onion. It’s the addition of the homemade chilli sauce that elevates this dish into something a bit special. You don’t have to be a master wok wielder to achieve a professional result.

Sake Amiyaki Gohan is grilled salmon with pak choi, ginger, oyster sauce and steamed rice. A bit of grilling and a bit of woking and you have a very smart dinner party dish. It looks very cheffy but it couldn’t be easier. You don’t have to wait long for the food to arrive in the Wagamama restaurants so you can assume that all the recipes here are going to be quick meals to prepare, although you can choose to eat them slowly!

There is a nice selection of exotic and original desserts. I figure that it’s a good idea to have a dessert already done if you are stir-frying for the main course. Lemongrass and Chilli Crème Caramel with Sake and Star Anise fits the bill for me. It’s full of subtle Asian flavour and just right to finish either a Chinese or Japanese meal. Yummy!

The Daily Mail described The Wagamama Cookbook as “A must buy”. If you want no-fuss healthy food then this could well become a favourite.


The Wagamama Cookbook
Author: Hugo Arnold
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-649-9
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Meeting the Medicine MenMeeting the Medicine Men

This site is called Mostly Food Journal and the space that isn’t food will be filled with what I hope will interest and amuse you. Lots of travel and social history, and items like this book that encompass those topics and much more.

Charles Langley has written this most unique and fascinating book, Meeting the Medicine Men – An Englishman’s Travels Among the Navajo. I thought this might be a Victorian anthropological documentary and how was I going to review a book like that! This is something far different.

Meeting the Medicine Men is the story of a chap from North London who, via some ‘coincidences’, is introduced to the Navajo nation and, in particular, to its Medicine Men. Yes, they do still exist and are very much a part of Indian custom and culture. Although the next generation don’t seem too interested, the more conservative Indians will naturally seek out the help of the Medicine Men when western health treatment has failed. They will trust that those same men will be able to recognise a curse set by a rival family, and to destroy that curse.

New Mexico is a magical place but it’s the Navajo who are the impressive element in this narrative. They are far from ‘The Noble Savages’ that early historians would portray them as. They are regular folks with a particular perspective. The Medicine Men allowed Charles to participate in traditional religious rituals, and opened his eyes to the possibility that there might be spiritual dimensions somewhat different from the western concept.

Now, I can understand that you might just put that down to superstition and to most westerners it all seems a bit far-fetched, but Charles tells of his experiences and it’s enough to make you think! Yes, but think what? That’s for every reader to make up his own mind but the story is extraordinary and well worth reading.

We live in a technologically advanced world but even scientists agree that there is so much that cannot be explained. It’s very easy to accuse these Medicine Men of trickery but the author assures us that events that he describes were exactly as he saw them and that sharp practice would not have been possible. How, for example, could anybody manage to find a small bundle of sticks and fur buried in the middle of a desert?

It’s a riveting read and the book will raise questions in the minds of the sceptical. On the other hand it gives confirming proof to those that are convinced that the world is more complex and spiritual than people imagine. I enjoyed this book very much and I suspect that you’ll enjoy it just as much, whatever your personal conclusions might be.


Meeting the Medicine Men
Author: Charles Langley
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-507-1
mostly food journal

The Edible Mushroom BookEdible Mushrooms

No, dear reader, this isn’t a book you can eat but it will point you in the direction of lots of lovely fungi which you can.

The Edible Mushroom Book – A Guide to Foraging and Cooking is a handy yet chunky volume, just right to keep in the pocket of your Barbour jacket. Anna Del Conte and Thomas Læssøe have produced an attractive and useful tool for the free food gatherer.

Mushrooms can be a bit mysterious. They are often hard to find and it’s sometimes ticklish to identify the mushrooms when you do find them. Both France and Italy have staff at chemist’s shops who will sift through your collection and tell you if they are all safe to eat. I suspect that the girl behind the counter at Boots might not be quite so helpful. (Oi, Doris, there’s a bloke ’ere askin’ if we know about ’is mushrooms!)

Fine illustrations are always a welcome addition to cookbooks, but these are not only lovely pictures, they might save your life. Mushroom hunting isn’t like collecting bluebells. You are going to eat these things and they might kill you if you don’t take precautions. It’s a sobering thought but it’s best to be armed with all the facts before you embark on this most serious of undertakings.

The book is divided in two, and the first part, logically, deals with identification and collection. There must be every kind of mushroom listed, as well as a collection of Poisonous Fungi, which I would keep bookmarked! There are, however, far more edible specimens than there are killer varieties, so the chances of you falling upon a real nasty are slight.

The second section is devoted to the recipes and they look scrumptious! Beef Steak in Mushroom Sauce is a tasty example that uses a mixture of wild mushrooms with robust flavours. Warm Salad of Oyster Mushrooms is tangy and light, with anchovies and vinegar. What could be nicer on a hot day, possibly served with some crusty bread and a glass of red?

This book is indispensible for anyone who is even considering collecting mushrooms from the wild. It can be a fun and healthy pastime but it’s not a game!


The Edible Mushroom Book
Authors: Anna Del Conte and Thomas Læssøe
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-40533-213-2
mostly food journal

Fabulous Food

Fabulous Food

OK Magazine has described Sophie Michell as ‘The Culinary Princess’ and she has indeed packed a lot into her career and she is still a youngster.

Sophie’s love of cooking started at the age of three when she would play with her toy cooker; by ten she was baking her own cakes and by fourteen she was a professional.

Sophie moved to London and studied at Butler’s Wharf Chef School for her Advanced Chef Diploma. She then went to work in some of the capital’s best restaurants, including The Greenhouse, The Lanesborough, and The Embassy.

She competed in, and won, numerous competitions which resulted in her being nominated, at the age of 19, for The Craft Guild of Chefs ‘Young Chef of the Year’ Award. Not too shabby!

Fabulous Food – Sexy Recipes for Healthy Living is the full title. It’s a pretty book with attractive typefaces and superb photographs by Chris Alack. The dishes look wonderful and the added bonus is that they are healthy.

Sophie has a passion for good food (perhaps we all should) and has first-hand experience of both weight and health issues. She read a pile of diet books that all gave a negative message that weight loss meant unpleasant food. If you’re going to stick to a regimen you’ll need food that you’ll look forward to eating.

This book will make you smile. Sophie has a chatty style that’s full of humour. The chapter headings give you an idea of what’s in store: Social Butterfly, Quick Fixes to fit into that Little Black Dress, but the most fun is Turn up the Heat!

This doesn’t seem like diet food. It’s smart and tasty stuff and you could easily eat it for every meal and not feel like you deserve a medal. The Vine-leaf Wrapped Chicken with Ricotta, Pine Nut and Mint Stuffing is a lovely example of a dish that looks spectacular, is easy to execute and won’t break the bank.

Banana Strudel with Chocolate Sauce is bound to be a winner. Sophie tells us that dark chocolate contains antioxidants! For that fact alone, Sophie, I am truly indebted!

Fabulous Food – Sexy Recipes for Healthy Living is an attractive and well written book that you’ll want to own... or give to a special someone.


Fabulous Food
Author: Sophie Michell
Published by: Sphere (Little, Brown Book Group)
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84744-211-6
mostly food journal

Spain Body and SoulSpain Body and Soul

This is another remarkable book from those nice people at Haus Publishing. This is truly quality food writing, travel writing, poetic writing, and thoroughly absorbing and charming.

The author H M van den Brink isn’t famed for his food writing but he is nevertheless famed for writing. He published his first book in1993 but had huge success with On the Water in 1998 which was translated into numerous languages and won several literary prizes including the Independent Foreign Fiction Prize.

Spain Body and Soul isn’t a cookbook but it does have some delicious traditional recipes for dishes such as Chicken with Garlic, and Hazelnut Cake. It’s more a book about a Dutch journalist living in Spain and observing life and attitudes. H M van den Brink describes himself as an eater so he pays attention to meals, eating habits and culinary culture.

Perhaps the recipe for Bread with Tomato is the quintessential Spanish dish. It is, in truth, hardly a dish or a recipe but a flavourful preparation of soft and sun-drenched tomatoes crushed into a piece of bread. A drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt complete this little slice of simple gastronomic heaven.

I could fill pages with quotes from this superb volume. When writing of something as banal as Churros (long, thin, deep-fried doughnuts) H M van den Brink writes... “Eaten immediately, hot, they are like most sins: no less sinful in the heat of the moment than considered in hindsight, and in any case irresistible.” It’s enough to fill this writer with literary self-doubts and the urge to throw away her computer!

H M van den Brink paints marvellous landscapes with his words. Always well chosen, they describe scenery as well as could any travelogue. You’ll seek out the dishes he describes and thumb through a few of these pages as you sit in a cafe drinking a very small, very black coffee. If you are planning a trip to Spain then consider Spain Body and Soul as your companion.


Spain Body and Soul
Author: H M van den Brink
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £10.39
ISBN 1-904950-79-5
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Recipe Scrapbook

Recipe Scrapbook

This has got to be a thoughtful gift for anyone who loves cooking, recipes and collecting. It might just be called a “Scrapbook” but this is a sumptuous volume that might even become an heirloom!

There are sixteen wallets which are double-sided giving thirty-two different sections covering desserts, fruit, meat, pasta and any culinary heading you can think of. The idea is that you collect recipes from magazines, friends and family and you use the wallets to store them and keep them in order. There’s plenty of space so it’ll take you a while to fill.

Caroline Brewester has given you a start to your collection by including 80 delicious and international recipes. The Fish wallet offers five recipes, four of which are printed in the scrapbook, the fifth a very realistic “airmail letter” with a recipe for Grouper. The “letter” comes from Lebanon where a friend is taking a holiday. Several other wallets contain similar letters or pre-printed postcards with recipes. These cards are handy as you can, if you want, send them to friends.

The Recipe Scrapbook is made of good quality card and has sturdy binding. It’s not a flimsy notebook and its photo album size means that it’s not going to get lost amongst your regular cookbooks. If you take the time to collect your own recipes you’ll soon find that you have compiled the best cookbook in the world, unique to you and every recipe a winner!


Recipe Scrapbook
Author: Caroline Brewester
Published by: Duncan Baird Publishers
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-84483-694-9
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Chinese Food Made EasyChinese Food Made Easy

Ching-He Huang is a fresh and youthful face which might be new to those of you who have missed her cooking demonstrations on UKTV Food. She now enjoys a bit more well-earned exposure on BBC2 with a series called Chinese Food Made Easy. If you love the programmes (and who wouldn’t?) then you’ll want this sumptuous book. But who is this young lady?

Ching was born in Taiwan but moved first to South Africa and finally to the UK. Her parents ran a business and her mum was often overseas, so Ching took the responsibility for feeding the family. She was soon preparing all kinds of Chinese foods incorporating Yin and Yang – the Chinese philosophy of balance and harmony.

As a teenager, Ching’s creativity encouraged her to have a stab at acting. But after three years of living on the breadline and successfully completing a degree in Economics, she began thinking about earning some money.

What better idea than to start her own food company and that was the birth of Fuge (pronounced 'fugee', and means “well-being” in Mandarin). Ching’s products can now be found at retailers such as the Whistlestop chain and in foodservice outlets. She has also provided the salads at the Chelsea Flower Show and Wimbledon, as well as supplying a number of blue-chip companies in the City.

Fuge was followed by the launch of Tzu ( pronounced “ta-zu”), a healthy soft drinks range, which is now stocked in prestigious outlets such as Harrods, Selfridges, Fresh and Wild, as well as luxury hotels and health spas.

Ching was given a cookery series on the UKTV Food Channel at the beginning of 2005 called Ching’s Kitchen. Gareth Williams, Channel Executive, UKTV Food, said “She’s refreshing, entertaining, beautiful and above all makes fantastic food!" In autumn 2006, Ching launched her first cookbook, “China Modern”, which features over 100 recipes.

OK so that’s Ching, but how about the book? Chinese Food Made Easy is divided into eight chapters with scrumptious titles such as Dumplings, Dim Sum and Street Food. Yumm! The photographs are by the celebrated Kate Whitaker and they are a delight. The recipes are clear and simple and Ching gives some extra handy tips and serving suggestions.

The food is mouth-watering and I’ll be happy to eat my way through this book. Spiced Beef Stir-fry from the Muslim part of western China is a bit different from the typical Chinese dishes, as it uses cumin. You’ll probably already have all the other ingredients. Such an easy recipe but delicious.

Ching has included a selection of side dishes and these will enable you to compose a whole Chinese meal, and with that in mind there’s a menu planner with ideas for a New Year Party, Romantic Dinner (ahh), a menu for kids, and other suggestions.

There is no need to feel anxious if you are a Chinese-cooking virgin. There is everything here that you’ll need to help you cook lovely meals. Ching talks you through the cooking techniques, tools of the trade and store cupboard ingredients.

Chinese Food made Easy is inspired by a tradition and culture that has always valued the thoughtful preparation of food. These are healthy dishes that are truly easy. Get the wok out this weekend!


Chinese Food Made Easy
Author: Ching-He Huang (www.chinghe.com)
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726498-8
mostly food journal

My Mercedes is Not for SaleMy Mercedes is not for sale

You know, dear reader, that I spend lots of time looking for books that might inspire, amuse or educate you. My Mercedes is Not for Sale by Jeroen van Bergeijk is one of those books that I hope will do all of the above but will probably also have the dubious additions of filling you with fear, irritation and a dose of shock.

Let’s make one thing clear. I am not saying that Jeroen’s book is irritating, but his travels present him with people who I at least would love to smack. It’s an edgy adventure so it was on the cards that he would encounter the seedy sorts... and he did, at almost every turn.

It’s compelling reading that will keep you turning the pages. The plan is to buy an old Mercedes in Amsterdam and resell it in a far-off African state. To this end our hero finds a 1988 Mercedes 190 D (this will mean something to some of you) with 220,000 km on the clock (probably one lady owner who only used it to go to church?). His trip takes him from the relative safety of Holland through Morocco and across the Sahara.

If you consider travelling to the less civilised African countries then I suggest you arm yourself with this book. You can start to read it on the flight over and finish it on the next flight back! Second-hand cars are big business in Africa and there is indeed money to be made but you will have to bear in mind that you’ll be keeping company with guys that would cut your throat for thrupence. It’s a game for the strong and savvy. If Jeroen had been either of those he would have had a less “exciting” trip.

This is a rollicking read and a real Boys’ Own adventure of danger, privation and sandstorms that scour the paint off your car quicker than you can say illegal drugs... Oh, I forgot to mention drug smuggling!


My Mercedes is Not for Sale
Author: Jeroen van Bergeijk
Published by: Nicholas Brealey
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-85788-515-6
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Cooking in a BedsitterCooking in a bedsitter

“The famous book – in print for over 40 years”. This must be the cookbook equivalent of The Mousetrap (handy in the old-fashioned bedsit). Katherine Whitehorn has written this little gem which could be retitled “My First Cookbook”.

My young or foreign (from outside the UK) readers might not even know what a bedsitter was. Yes, it was someone who sat on a bed, that being mostly the only place to sit, but it was also the name given to the room, a combination of bedroom and sitting-room. Large Victorian houses were divided into single-room accommodation. There was a shared bathroom and almost never access to a real kitchen.

Katherine produced this book to aid all those who only had a single gas ring and no fridge. Although she has the bedsit in mind this volume works just as well for anyone who needs to cook quick and easy meals. You might have a full-sized range with an extractor that rises at the back like the organ in a 1930 cinema, but it will do you no good if you don’t know how to boil an egg!

Cooking in a Bedsitter will shepherd you through every cooking technique and every ingredient that might cross your path. The recipes are simple and you’ll have no problem with any of them. It’s a book that has stood the test of time, so be trusting.

There is a classic recipe for Frying Pan Pizza. It sounds a bit odd but it’s real comfort food. The base is almost scone-like and the kids will love it.  They will also love the Jam Fritters but probably not after the Pizza! There is a section on meals which can be made the day before, and a chapter on drinks and parties which has the cost of providing booze for four people as £1  4s.6d. (£1.22). That’s utter nostalgia, and charming.

These are not daft recipes. They all work and all of them (OK, not the tripe) would be delicious. It’s written with Katherine’s unique wit shining through. It’s not just for bedsit dwellers but for anyone short of space or money. This would be a godsend on a camping trip or in student flats. A great book, thanks Katherine.


Cooking in a Bedsitter
Author: Katherine Whitehorn
Published by: Virago Press
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-84408-568-2
mostly food journal

East Meets West

This is a celebrity charity cookbook and supports the 2004 earthquake and tsunami victims. It has a whole host of “big names” but perhaps the names that you might not recognise are of the two women who deserve the most thanks and praise.
East Meets West
Barbara Jayson lived for many years in South East Asia and whilst living in Indonesia started a charity called The Foundation for Mother and Child Care. She was awarded an MBE for her work in Indonesia in 2004. Jenny de Montfort was born in Sri Lanka and grew up in Nigeria and Cameroon. Whilst living in Indonesia she and a friend compiled a successful cookbook for charity which inspired this book.

It does your heart good to know that people will devote time to help others when disaster strikes. Nigella Lawson was one of the first to pitch in, but food and wine writers, photographers, PAs and publishers all did their bit to produce a book that the public would really want to buy. This book is the tangible proof of their success.

The list of celebrated chefs, cooks and worthies is long but you’ll see who they all are when you buy the book so I’ll just pick a few recipes that I know my dear reader will enjoy.

Anton Edelmann offers Baked Figs with Goats Cheese and Coriander Salad. This is a real fusion dish and that is the theme for these recipes. It’s the combination of East and West that produces something special.

Bill Granger has donated his scrumptious recipe for Coconut Pancakes with Banana and Passion Fruit Syrup. You know how easy pancakes are but Bill gives these a tropical twist.

Gennaro Contaldo is a chap I know to be generous with his time so it’s no surprise to see him here. His contribution is a tangy Orange and Fennel Salad. Refreshing and light.

I must include Nigella Lawson as she was kind enough to get the ball rolling and she must have many calls on her time. Thai Crumbled Beef in Lettuce Wraps is very Forever Summer... er, the recipe is even if the weather isn’t!

This is a gorgeous fusion cookbook with impressive authors. You’ll buy East Meets West because it’s a great book and you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that others will be getting something they need as well.


East Meets West
Authors: Various
Published by: Accent Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-905170-02-5
mostly food journal

Japanese Pure and Simple

It’s fair to say that Kimiko Barber is the undisputed queen of Japanese cooking in the UK, and this book is just another illustration of why.
Japanese pure and Simple
Japanese Pure and Simple has over 100 health-giving recipes that are simple and flavourful and a feast for both the eyes and the palate. The photographs by Jan Baldwin are gorgeous, giving the large format book an overall feel of elegance.

Kimiko presents Japanese food as nourishing, balanced and seasonal. The fresh ingredients are tinkered with as little as possible to retain nutrients and texture. There is evidently something to be said for that philosophy as the Japanese have the highest life expectancy in the world.

The recipes are divided into various categories such as Soup, Fish, Poultry, Rice etc and they are a marvellous selection, but my favourite dishes are the Japanese Hotpots. These take fondue to new heights of sophistication and have the advantage of being good for you. There is the usual process of cooking raw meats and veggies in a stock but then you are left with a richer and more flavourful broth than you started with. Anyone who has a little space at the end of the Hotpot can finish that broth with the addition of rice or noodles.

Teriyaki dishes are always popular. They are easy to prepare and have that sweet rich flavour that is irresistible. Teriyaki Pork Steak is one of those dishes that you’ll make often as either part of a Japanese meal or served with western vegetables or salads. The ingredients are easy to find and not expensive, and once the sauce is made you can keep it for a while in the fridge. It works equally well with lamb chops but I love it with chicken breasts.

The Japanese are renowned for the exquisite presentation of food and Kimiko has thoughtfully given us some pointers. You don’t need to invest in new crockery although I think that a small Sake flask and cups adds a hint of authenticity. Use your usual plates but don’t pile on the food, rather create landscapes with plenty of space and artful use of garnish. Very Zen!

Kimiko Barber writes books that are full of advice to enable you to prepare truly beautiful but healthy food with surprising ease. Choose the freshest produce and enjoy these delightful dishes.

Japanese Pure and Simple
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-85626-665-6
mostly food journal

Damascus – Taste of a City

Damascus

This is a long way from your usual travel guide or cookbook but it encompasses elements of both. Damascus – Taste of a City is, in fact, a phone conversation between brother and sister, he being exiled in Germany and she walking through the streets of their beloved Damascus.

They say that when a man has lived seven years in Damascus, Damascus lives in him. Rafik Schami lived in Damascus for twenty-five years so his very soul yearns for the city. He was offered the chance to write a book about a culinary walk through the streets he knew so well, but how was he going to manage that when he couldn’t return to Damascus?

Rafik’s sister Marie Fadel came to the rescue with an audacious plan to collect all the information via the telephone. She would interview family and friends, collect the recipes and test them before passing them to her brother. Rafik would do the translating and turn all those notes into a book.

This is a true step by step guide to Damascus but through the eyes of an insider. We meet neighbours, friends and family. There is a favourite chicken recipe from an aunt, a lentil soup recipe from the family around the corner, and so the tour continues, each encounter punctuated by delicious food and generous hospitality.

One has the impression that we are eavesdropping on this conversation but it’s fascinating. Maria reminds Rafik of school friends, of cakes eaten, of kibbeh cooked on Sundays and of times spent together. She describes her route in meticulous detail and points out, more for our benefit than her brother’s, historic buildings and places of interest. We can follow on the map and imagine ourselves walking beside Maria as she chats on the phone.

Each alley has a story of tragedy, of courage and of fortitude. We meet people that have had to endure so much but manage to live life with grace and good humour. The recipes, however tasty, seem to fade in importance when compared to the human element of this very personal travelogue.

We are at the end of our walk. Maria returns home but she decides to ring exiled Rafik one more time. She falls silent and holds the phone to the city. It’s the background noise that we all take for granted but it’s the noise of home, of memories, of family. If you keep a dry eye through those last pages you are made of stronger stuff than I.


Damascus – Taste of a City
Authors: Marie Fadel and Rafik Schami
Published by: Haus Publishing
Price: £12.99
ISBN 1-904950-3-2
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Fish Indian Style

Chef and restaurateur Atul Kochhar is one of the better known Asian faces on food TV in the UK. His restaurant, Benares, holds a Michelin star and he has recently opened another two restaurants. I think we can safely conclude that Atul understands food.

Fish Indian Style

This is a sumptuous book with wonderful photographs by David Loftus who shows off Atul’s dishes to best advantage but also adds striking close-ups of the stars of this book, the fish.

Although a fish eater, I must admit that it is, more often than not, bland. Chefs will try and persuade you that the lack of taste should be considered as “delicate”. But many of us prefer more robust flavours that if well chosen can enhance fish, and Atul has chosen well.

Fish Indian Style offers over one hundred superb and unique recipes for all kinds of fish and seafood. Most of the dishes have several alternatives to suit the seasons. Trout might be substituted for salmon, sea bass or sea bream. Atul has recipes for every occasion and for every taste.

Fish isn’t cheap so it’s good to be able to be flexible. There are all kinds of fish, from the pricey for when you feel like pushing the (fishing) boat out, to cheaper choices like mackerel which is so often overlooked. Lobster might be beyond you at the end of the month but you could substitute prawns.

Indian food is a great love of mine and these recipes don’t disappoint. The food of the subcontinent isn’t always fiery hot but is often aromatic and subtle. Atul’s ingredients marry well to produce delicious dishes that are both exotic and simple. The spices are not expensive and you’ll probably already have them to hand.

There are quite a few recipes here that I would consider outstanding. Chilli-fried potted shrimps, which is a rework of a British classic, and Crayfish Samosas, which is a new take on an Indian classic. They are both simple recipes but produce lovely results for starters or even an Anglo-Indian brunch or supper buffet. Konkani Fish Curry in a Spicy Coconut Sauce is perhaps one of my (many) favourites. Its combinations of spices and coconut typify the flavours of Indian cuisine, and this is a traditional recipe.

Fish Indian Style will be well received by those of us who want to do more with fish. It’s an exceptional book with inspiring ideas that will encourage you to experiment...and probably to eat more fish!


Fish Indian Style
Author: Atul Kochhar
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781904573838
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The City of London CookbookCity of London

This is one of those charity books with various contributors that I love so much. The charity in question was the Lord Mayor’s Appeal 2006: The Treloar Centenary Appeal for disabled children. The contributions from this book will still be added to the fund.

Peter Gladwin has a scrumptious collection of his own recipes and those of other chefs and even the odd Royal... er, sorry Sir, not at all odd, and... um, thank you for the recipe! They are a lovely selection of dishes that encompass the cheffy and the traditional, but all of them could be made at home with no need to rent the Mansion House kitchens for the evening.

The City of London Cookbook is also a history illustrated with witty anecdotes and it’s worth buying the book for those alone. Sophia Loren was gracious enough to admit “Everything you see I owe to spaghetti”. We also get the insider’s view of international figures: it seems like American politicians have a limited dining culture. They don’t eat seafood in shells, fish with bones or chicken attached to carcasses. If you can’t eat the meal with just a fork then it goes back!

If you love London and especially the City then you will appreciate the tales of ancient tradition, some of which have lasted 700 years. The first one we come across is the Sheriff’s Breakfast. Sounds a bit like a pre-hanging scene from an old western but it’s the breakfast that the Sheriff is obliged to offer the Aldermen of the City. It’s held on Michaelmas Eve at 8am and Samuel Pepys wrote of it in 1660. The menu in those days was a bit different, comprising such “tempting” dishes as mutton pottage and collar of brawn, to be washed down with ale and chocolate!

Rick Stein was asked by Alderman David Brewer to create a recipe for his Lord Mayor’s Banquet. Crab Florentine was Rick’s culinary response and Peter had the task of preparing 800 to be served simultaneously. OK, so you do need a big kitchen for that!

This is a fascinating and fun book and thoroughly enjoyable. It would make a wonderful gift for a foodie, tourist or Londoner - and it’s in a good cause.


The City of London Cookbook
Author: Peter Gladwin
Published by: Accent Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1905170388
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Persia in Peckham

persia in peckham

Just the title was enough to get me turning the pages. Has it got something to do with Continental Drift? No, this is simply one of the best reads around, and it’s not even been penned by a famous food celeb, columnist or chef.

Sally Butcher has a husband who is Iranian and they own Persepolis in Peckham, South London (a shop that sells all manner of exotica, and which I fully intend to visit). When you find a husband you get the in-laws as well, and Sally is lucky that hers are truly a bonus. This book draws upon cultural heritage and culinary savvy to create a smile-inducing mix of recipes and stories.

This is a chunky volume illustrated with sketches and Arabic script. The recipes are for the most part simple, and different from the typical Middle Eastern ones that I am familiar with. Sally provides each one with some background information and often a funny comment. This is heart-warming stuff even if you can’t cook a whisk’s worth.

Persia in Peckham is full of recipes that I intend to steal! Not all of those included in this book are Iranian because Sally has thoughtfully added some dishes from her customers who hail from Somalia, Afghanistan, Greece and the West Indies. Perhaps that’s what London is all about.

I love the chapter on Pickles and Preserves, which offers such delights as Quince Jam with Cardamom, and Persepolis Special Torshi, which is a sour pickle. The Casseroles section has a host of delicious dishes but one of my favourites is Chicken and Aubergine Boats, full of warming spices and tangy pickle.

The recipe that I will not only steal but pass off as my own is Persimmons Filled with Spiced Cheese. This would be an exotic end to Iranian or Indian meals, being sweet with a hint of spice and lemon. The cheese in question isn’t a lump of cheddar or Danish Blue but creamy fromage frais. You’ll need to buy the book for the full recipe and you won’t have wasted your money.

I very much hope that Persia in Peckham is nominated for some award or other. It has already been selected as Cookbook of the Year 2007 by the Sunday Times. Sally deserves some recognition as a funny and uplifting writer. Well done, that girl!


Persia in Peckham
Author: Sally Butcher
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1903018514
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A Little Maple Syrup CookbookMaple syrup

This is just one in the series from Appletree Press in Belfast and these Little Cookbooks are little gems.  They are a handy size and would make the most lovely of gifts for any budding cook. You’ll have to look at the Appletree Press site for a full list of their titles but you’ll find that there are lots of them and many published in not only English but French and several other languages.

This book is just so charming with illustrations by Susan David that complement the recipes so well. And those recipes are mouth-watering. If you have never tasted Maple Syrup then you are missing a treat. It’s like brown sugar but with a richer, more distinct flavour. The real stuff isn’t cheap but you’ll find it’s worth the price.

Easy Baked Cinnamon Toast is...well, easy! Imagine a cinnamon bread and butter pudding but without the butter. This would be a stunner as part of a breakfast for a crowd and you don’t have to watch the grill or keep loading the toaster!

This is without a doubt my favourite Maple Syrup recipe: French Canadian Maple Syrup Pie is sweet and delicious and you only need as small serving (it says here). It’s another simple recipe but memorable and if you try it you will make it often.

These might be Little Cookbooks but they are impressive. I am tempted to collect the whole list!


A Little Maple Syrup Cookbook
Authors: Cynthia Cousins and Karen King
Published by: Appletree Press www.appletree.ie
Price: £4.99
ISBN 0-86281-623-8






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