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Caribbean Food Made
Easy
Levi Roots (his real name is Keith Graham) was brought up
till the age of eleven by his grandparents in
Jamaica. He lived in a house full of extended family where cooking was
a continual process. He moved to London to live with his parents and
eventually had a successful career as a musician, and was indeed
nominated for a prestigious MOBO award in 1998. He has performed with
James Brown and Maxi Priest. He has his own range of Caribbean foods, a
Caribbean cafe and takeaway, and every summer runs his popular stall at
the celebrated Notting Hill Carnival.
Although we have a sizable Caribbean population in Britain we don’t
have many Caribbean restaurants. You’ll find some in the largest cities
but almost never in smaller towns. If you live in an area with an
Afro-Caribbean community then you’ll probably have access to
supermarkets that sell pre-prepared patties and Jerk Sauces but
Caribbean Food Made Easy shows that you don’t need too many specialist
ingredients to make authentic dishes.
I am a Londoner so have had a little experience of Caribbean food. I
have been known to make quite a reasonable breakfast with fried
plantains (cooking bananas). This book, however, offers a raft of
authentic and adapted recipes made from high street ingredients that
won’t break the bank. These are all-year-round dishes that will
introduce some tropical pizzazz to summer alfresco dining as well as to
cold and wet winter nights when some warming spice is in order. The
chapters include One Pot Suppers, Fish and Seafood, Roasts and Grills,
Street Food, as well as Desserts.
Levi draws upon his Scottish ancestry with his Mctumplings. These are
traditional fried “tumplings” flavoured with vegetarian haggis. Serve
these with Caribbean Salsa Verde (recipe in this book). Another version
is the Banana Tumpling with a hint of cinnamon. Serve these as a side
dish for fried chicken (remember fried bananas with Chicken Maryland?
Very retro.), or as a dessert spread with butter and jam.
A must-try from this book is Honey, Grenadine and Ginger Roasted Lamb
with Pomegranate and Mint Salad. This is no more difficult than making
your regular Sunday roast but the addition of an exotic marinade
elevates this dish into something a bit special. Have some roast sweet
potatoes along with this for a taste of warmer climes.
If you are looking for a truly special first course then you wouldn’t
go far wrong with Devilled Crab Gratin. If you can make a white sauce
then you can make this. Levi suggests serving this in individual crab
shells but gratin dishes or ramekins work just as well. A simple but
smart start to any dinner party. If Levi ever owns a posh restaurant
with crystal and linen then this would be his signature dish. None of
us would be able to afford it so take the opportunity to make it at
home yourself.
Caribbean Food Made Easy is an attractive book with easy to follow
recipes... and I like these recipes. Each one has something to commend
it. Full-on flavour or decadent sweetness or light freshness... it’s
all here. A great companion to the BBC TV series of the same name... So
when is the Notting Hill Carnival, then...?
Cookbook review: Caribbean Food Made Easy
Author: Levi Roots
Published by: Mitchell Beazley - Octopus
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-84533-525-0
Food Network Favourites
Ahhh, those were the days when I could sit and watch
American TV all day long. Hundreds of channels and
about a dozen that any thinking person would want to watch. Harsh
words, them, but true. My habitual viewing was the US Food Network. I
drank in the programmes which introduced me to new recipes and a new
style of cooking. It’s a shame that I now find so little to inspire me
on the UK food channel. I am almost word-perfect for all of Rick
Stein’s series, good though they are, and Market Kitchen lacks the warm
and human charm of Jeni Barnett’s Good Food Live. Here is a book,
however, that reminds me of my days of enthusiastic viewing.
Food Network Favourites has recipes from some of my preferred American
TV chefs. A few of the celebs seem a bit chubbier than I remember but
the style of food is the same. Paula Deen is new to me but I love her
Southern cuisine. You’ll need access to some American packaged mixes to
make some of the recipes but you’ll have no problem finding the
ingredients for Paula Deen's Scallops with Crème Fraiche Mash.
Classy but simple. Tomato Pie takes little effort but the result would
make a lovely light lunch or a starter for a more formal meal. Artful
use of mayo for the topping.
Alton Brown was my big Food Network find. He has the approach of a
scientist... or at least a mad professor. Think Heston Blumenthal with
laughs. Red Snapper en Papillote is a smart dish although you can use
any firm-fleshed, non-oily fish. Your fish will cook inside a parchment
paper envelope. This is probably a good dish for a novice cook as the
fish is almost guaranteed to be moist. Alton also has a recipe for
English Muffins which we in England would call a crumpet or a pikelet.
These are traditional yeast batter fried breads with convenient holes
designed to hold melted butter.
Emeril Lagasse is a real character. He is passionate about food and is
as popular as Gordon Ramsay is in the UK... only nicer. He has his own
range of food products but offers you his Emeril’s Essence Creole
Seasoning recipe here. Duck Pastrami is a unique concept. Think
marinated salmon and you’ll have the idea. The duck is coated with the
seasoning mix and soaks up the flavour for 48 hours then is slow
roasted, and matured in the fridge for a week. Slice thin and serve as
hors d’oeuvres.
Food Network Favourites will be welcomed by my American readers who
will enjoy the printed version of their cooking channel heros, but it’s
also a book that showcases modern American food. It’s not all fast
burgers, pizzas and hot dogs. Bobby Flay, Dave Lieberman, Giada de
Laurentiis, Mario Batali, Michael Chiarello, Rachael Ray, Tyler
Florence and Wolfgang Puck offer some inspiring recipes.
Cookbook review: Food Network Favourites
Authors: Various
Published by: Meredith Books
Price: £19.95
ISBN 978-0-696-23707-2
500 Red Wines
and 500 White Wines
Life was easier back then. A bottle of sherry for
Christmas or when the vicar was coming to tea, some
brown ale for dad on Saturday night and a bottle of Hirondelle wine to
drink in the kitchen at parties. Now we have choices and viticultural
aspirations...but what to buy?
I offer you two reviews rolled into one. Apple Press continue with
their marvellously practical 500 series, now considering red wines and
white wines. Christine Austin has penned 500 Red Wines. She has an
established career as a wine writer and also as an international wine
competition judge. Natasha Hughes and Patricia Langton are those
responsible for 500 White Wines. Natasha is a UK-based food and wine
writer and lecturer on wine appreciation. Patricia is also a food and
wine writer with special interest in Spain, Chile and Argentina. She is
based in London.
Each of these chunky volumes is packed with information you’ll need to
boldly go into the wine merchants and to return home with something
delicious, appropriate for your meal and the right colour. These books
are compact enough to take with you on your bottle-hunting raids so you
won’t have to commit everything to memory before you hit the high
street. Good wines are to be found at reasonable prices but you need to
know which are good value and which are just cheap. Each wine listed in
these books has a price guide, on a scale from economic to astronomic.
There are useful chapters on grape varieties, growing
grapes, making wine, regional specialities, keeping
and storing wine, and even those colourful tasting words. You’ll soon
be able to recognise a cheeky little floral nose and wax lyrical about
the chocolatey spiciness.
Many of us like a glass of wine with a meal. Red wine is said (this
week) to be good for us in moderation but food and wine pairing is a
mystery to most of the population. These books give you ample advice
about wines to choose and this will be particularly welcome if you want
to have a bottle of something special from the restaurant cellar. You
know you’ll be paying an arm and a leg for your glassful so a bit of
fore-planning could save both fiscal and emotional embarrassment.
500 Red Wines and 500 White Wines are a couple of the best wine books
for the beginner. Pick a wine and taste. Read the description and
you’ll find that there is more to your bottle of Vin de Pays de l’Aude
than you had realised. You’ll become a discerning drinker and avoid
expensive mistakes. Great value for money and a must for anyone who
would like to learn more about wine.
500 Red Wines
Author: Christine Austin
500 White Wines
Authors: Natasha Hughes and Patricia Langton
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.99
500 White Wines ISBN 978-1-84543-330-7
500 Red Wines ISBN 978-1-84543-331-4
Easy
Baking - Australian Women’s Weekly
This is one of a series of slim volumes with large page
format from Australian Women’s Weekly. This is a
publisher whose books are prized by those who want books to cook from.
The reason for that is quite simple: Australian Women’s Weekly
cookbooks have recipes that work. They are triple-tested, which is more
than can be said for recipes written by some celebrity chefs or
celebs-turned-chefs.
When we were small we might have been enticed into the kitchen when an
adult was baking. It’s hard to get kids enthused about making a
casserole, but the prospect of a bowl to scrape, a wooden spoon to lick
and a cupcake as the final product is often the first step to a love of
baking.
Easy Baking - Australian Women’s Weekly presents 110 or so pages of
bright and attractive baked goods, with additional pages of baking
tips, advice on cake pans (yes, size does matter) and a glossary of
ingredients. This would be a marvellous book for a novice cook as it
doesn’t assume you already have the keen and practised eye of a
professional baker. The recipes are clearly written and supportive. The
more experienced cook will find lots of sweet treats and a couple of
savoury ones to add to their repertoire.
The chapter titles hint at the style of this informal cookbook: Baking
for the cake stall, for kids’ lunchboxes, for morning tea, with the
kids, for afternoon tea, for celebrations. Everything is
child-friendly, being either just the sort of baked goods that kids
like to eat or that they would enjoy making. There are lots of small
individual cakes as well as biscuits, muffins and slices. The larger
cakes just cry out for little hands to drizzle, sprinkle or frost them.
I have several quick and easy favourites from this book. Pear
Frangipane Galette takes only 45 minutes for both the preparation and
the cooking time. It uses bought shortcrust pastry so this is a great
standby dessert. Keep some pastry in the freezer for emergencies. I do
and I don’t know why I feel guilty about doing it. Find a good quality
pastry, though.
Chocolate Caramel Slice is a must-try. It’s a simple recipe in three
stages. It needs refrigeration before eating so this is no instant
snack. The recipe suggests that it serves 16 but I think that’s just
the number of squares when cut. These won’t stay in the tin very long
even in a household of 2.
Easy Baking - Australian Women’s Weekly is a good solid cookbook with
recipes that you know you can trust. A couple of ingredients might be
unfamiliar to cooks not hailing from the Antipodes but substitutions
will be obvious. Terrific value for money.
Cookbook review: Easy Baking - Australian Women’s Weekly
Author: Australian Women’s Weekly
Published by: ACP Books
Price: £6.99
ISBN 978-186396863-8
Bake me I’m Yours –
Chocolate
You have gotta love a book with a title like that. It’s an
attention-grabber but it’s what’s between the
covers that will intrigue you.
Tracey Mann must be one of the UK’s most respected cake makers and
decorators. She has had her work featured on covers of numerous
magazines and has made wedding cakes for such “worthies” as Tom
Parker-Bowles. It’s evident that Tracey has both skill and imagination.
It’s all about style. Tracey gives tips that elevate your sweet
creations into something stunning. Surprisingly simple when you know
how: a matter of using the aids that professional cake decorators have
known about for years. The things that make the difference between the
rustic homemade and something that would not shame a wedding reception
at a five-star hotel. Yes, you can do it.
Tracey has a battery of basic cake recipes, although she won’t know if
you use your own favourite ones. It’s the decorating techniques that’s
the reason you’ll buy this book. They are amazing but accessible to the
home cook. Transfer sheets are the key to several of Tracey’s
sophisticated productions. These sheets enable you to create
multi-coloured finishes or ornaments which are striking and edible.
Chocolate paste is a combination of chocolate, glucose and water. This
is the culinary equivalent of Play Dough and can be formed into flowers
or modelled into pleats or ribbons. To get a regular beaded effect then
use a Beadmaker. This is a mould which creates a string of perfect
beads from chocolate paste. There are any number of moulds to enable
you to add three-dimensional decorations to your cakes.
Christmas is fast approaching and Tracey has a novel idea for easy but
beautiful tree decorations. Use tempered chocolate (instructions in
this book) to cover a festive patterned transfer sheet. Tracey suggests
using white chocolate and a holly or red gingham transfer, but there
are many transfer sheet designs so you could consider a holly-shaped
decoration with perhaps a contemporary transfer, or a traditional
snowflake transfer with a geometric cutter.
Bake me I’m Yours – Chocolate is a small-format book with 25 different
chocolate projects. This would be an ideal stocking-filler for a
chocoholic who loves to cook. It’s good value for money for such a
smart little book. Decadent and delicious ideas.
Cookbook review: Bake me I’m Yours – Chocolate
Author: Tracey Mann
Published by: David and Charles
Price: £9.99, $14.99US
ISBN-13: 978-0-7153-3163-7
Diabetes
Recipes from Around the World
Approximately 200 million people worldwide suffer with
diabetes and there are millions more who have
diabetes but are not yet aware of it. It’s an increasing problem, with
more younger people than ever being victims. It’s a serious disease but
it is still possible to enjoy life and good food even when diagnosed
with the condition.
Managing diet is key to minimising damage and limiting drug use. But if
your meals are dull and boring then you won’t stick to your regime.
Diabetes Recipes from Around the World offers over 100 recipes for
dishes that will help you manage diabetes, and they are dishes that
will be enjoyed by the whole family. Food should be fun as well as
being healthful.
Jane Frank is a nutritional therapist and has penned two other books:
The Basic Basics Diabetes Handbook and Eat Smart Beat the Menopause,
both published by Grub Street. She would seem well placed to give
advice about eating properly but advice about healthy food is not the
same as showing you how to cook the tastiest of dishes. Diabetes
Recipes from Around the World is a tool you’ll enjoy using.
This book has some lovely recipes. Nothing beige and sacrificed to the
god of bland here. They are a truly international bunch with the
occasional adaption to make for a diabetic-friendly dish. You family
will not notice that these are healthy foods. They might notice that
your repertoire has improved, though.
Thai food is exotic and different. It has rich mouth-filling flavours
and it’s a bit posh. Thai Fish Cakes are a traditional classic and here
they are served with a Sweet and Sour Cucumber Sauce. You can use any
white fish and even coley which is so often overlooked and underrated.
This is 18% carbohydrate and low GL. Each recipe has a nutritional
breakdown and a GL level - handy for diabetics but also for others who
have specific dietary needs.
Seared Salmon Fillets with Spicy Soba Noodles hails from Japan and is
an easy dish to make but good enough to present to your guests. Serve
with a garnish of Wasabi and pickled ginger for authenticity. It’s
worth getting Soba Noodles for their unique taste and texture. They
work particularly well with the salmon or even in a clear broth for a
quick winter lunch.
Diabetes Recipes from Around the World has, in my opinion, some of the
most tempting dishes for those who must keep an eye on their food
intake. They are vibrant, flavourful and well-balanced. Good for all
the family. Good value for money.
Cookbook review: Diabetes Recipes from Around the World
Author: Jane Frank
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-06-5
LA’s
Original Farmers Market Cookbook
This is one of those cookbooks that gives a warm glow. You
don’t have to be from LA. You don’t even have
to be American to be able to appreciate a book about a spot that just
oozes food-related delight. LA’s Original Farmers Market Cookbook is a
picture-book with recipes. A cookbook and travelogue. An invitation to
temptation.
JoAnn Cianciulli is a successful food writer and producer of
food-related television programmes. She is a New Yorker now living in
Los Angeles who has been enjoying the charms of the Farmers Market for
over 10 years. It has inspired her to capture the best of dishes on
offer and to tell something of the warm and colourful history of a
popular LA institution. It’s been around since 1934 so it’s doing
something right.
When we in Britain think of farmers markets we conjure visions of a few
stalls selling mud-garnished carrots, small punnets of soft fruits, and
over-priced designer lettuce, with perhaps a hot-dog stall and a tea
urn for refreshments (although the number and quality of UK farmers
markets is fast improving). The farmers market at 3rd and Fairfax in
Los Angeles is more generously proportioned than most of its UK cousins
and also sports a wealth of casual eateries which have supplied the
recipes for this book.
The food is an ethnically diverse mix that reflects the makeup of the
visitors to the market, be they locals or tourists. There is something
for every taste and I find the collection of recipes quite appealing.
If you are a lover of pizza then you will want to try Patsy’s Special.
The crust is a soft New York style with a bunch of my favourite
toppings which includes anchovies, an addition that I know is not
always popular but which does introduce a saltiness to cut the fat of
lots of cheese. This pie was a regular snack for the likes of Frank
Sinatra and Jo DiMaggio so you’ll be munching a slice of history.
Another slice, or should I say ladleful, of Americana comes in the
guise of Seafood Gumbo with Cornbread Muffins. This is provided by The
Gumbo Pot which specialises in Cajun cuisine from New Orleans. This is,
in my humble opinion, some of the best original American food around. A
fusion of African and New World flavours – a combination of shrimps and
okra. This is a surprisingly easy dish to make at home. It’s delicious
and looks amazing.
LA’s Original Farmers Market Cookbook presents the best of real
American food. That’s not to be found in the swanky yet anonymous
restaurants mushrooming in every large city. This is food that reminds
us of Hollywood movies, of mom-and-pop diners and the multitude of
ethnic origins of twenty-first century Americans. I’ll be spending my
next US vacation at 3rd and Fairfax.
Cookbook review: LA’s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
Author: JoAnn Cianciulli
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US, £15.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-5568-6
Paul
Gayler’s Little Book of Salads
In the Summer we eat lighter and fresher. Gone are the
hearty casseroles and rib-sticking pasta bakes, to
be replaced by salads. Yeah, but it’s boring, I hear you cry. But it
doesn’t have to be. There is no excuse for bland, limp and lifeless
salad. Think vibrant! Think zesty! Think of what Paul Gayler might do
at a time like this!
Most of you will be familiar with the smart Lanesborough Hotel chef,
who has oft graced these internet site pages. You will probably have
also seen him on British food TV where he has promoted his original and
exciting cuisine. In Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Salads he turns his
attention to, unsurprisingly, salad. Not the iceberg, tomato and
cucumber of yesteryear but more complex and all-year-round-tempting
dishes that are nevertheless simple to make.
Salads are healthy and quick. They are welcomed in warmer weather but
there is a whole raft of salads that are ideal for winter meals. Roast
Potato Salad with Smoked Salmon uses Jersey Royal potatoes, has some
bite in the guise of gherkins, and richness from the fish. Keeping with
that theme Truffled Potato Salad is a visual stunner. No, the potatoes
are not covered in chocolate nor are they garnished with expensive
fungi. Truffle potatoes are a variety of purple potato which helps to
create a dish that is not only delicious but attractive.
Perhaps my favourite from the Winter Warmers chapter is Warm Lentil
Salad with Goat’s Cheese and Anchovy Toasts. Anchovies give a salty
tang without overt fishiness. Combined with the goat’s cheese they
offer a taste of warmer climes when the wind is whistling and you want
to spend an evening tucked up with holiday brochures.
Exotic salads work whatever the temperature. Spiced Chicken and Mango
Salad nods to the Subcontinent for inspiration. The mango (Alphonso for
preference) adds a light perfume and the green chilli offers a hint of
heat. This would be wonderful served as part of an Eastern barbecue
with perhaps lamb kebabs or chops.
Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Salads offers recipes that are accessible
to home cooks and which have a touch of this chef’s usual innovation.
Nothing is difficult. It’s salad for goodness sake! A great little book
with plenty for the vegetarian and meat-eater alike.
Cookbook review: Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Salads
Author: Paul Gayler
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-840-0
One Pot of
Jam from Your Microwave – Quick and Easy
Foulsham & Co. might not be the largest cookbook
publisher around but they present some of the best small one-topic
books. I have reviewed several other of their Quick and Easy series and
they have all been
clearly written and informative. One Pot of Jam from Your Microwave is
another to join the ranks of worthwhile cookbooks.
A few years ago your average microwave cookbook was something to be
shunned. They were full of recipes that gave inferior results and used
strange and nasty plastic articles that would cook bacon or make crisps
(that never did work). My microwave has been used little apart from
heating drinks, thawing frozen goods and warming up leftovers. Whilst I
am grateful for the facility it has seemed a rather under-utilised
kitchen gadget.
One Pot of Jam from Your Microwave is quite a revelation. You can make
preserves in the aforementioned coffee-heater! Note that I say
preserves rather than jam because this volume contains recipes for a
raft of chutneys, pickles, butters and the like. The selection of
bottled delights is far wider-ranging than the predictable strawberry
jam. OK, so the cooking method involves the microwave but the recipes
are inspiring. This stands up well in comparison to any other book on
preserves.
Regular supermarket jam isn’t expensive but if you can put your hands
on some free fruit then even the common blackberry jam is worth making
yourself. I promise you will taste the difference. Check out the price
of the more exotic shop-bought confections and you are looking at
remortgaging the house or selling the kids. We are all periodically
tempted by those beautiful jars, as a thank-you gift or to look smart
on the breakfast table when the in-laws are staying. One Pot of Jam
from Your Microwave offers some suggestions for preserves that will
make you look like you have won the lottery, and how proud you’ll be to
proclaim that it’s really ‘fait maison’.
There are quite a few preserves here that deserve a mention. Bird of
Paradise Pineapple Jam in reality contains no wildlife and is safe for
vegetarians. It’s a tropical mix of pineapple, apple and persimmon.
Mango Jam with Orange is another option if you love flavours of the
Orient. My tip would be to buy your mangoes from an Asian grocer. Much
better value.
My favourite recipe for gift-giving is Dried Apricots in Amaretto. This
has all the hallmarks of a holiday season success. It’s simple to make
and good enough to keep. Dried Figs with Vanilla in Calvados also falls
into that category.
One Pot of Jam from Your Microwave – Quick and Easy is a book for
anyone who has ever wanted to try their hand at making jam, pickle,
chutney and flavoured vinegars. I am impressed by the recipes, that are
some of the most imaginative around. Good value for money.
Cookbook review: One Pot of Jam from Your Microwave – Quick and Easy
Author: Sonia Allison
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03490-0
What’s for Dinner?
I try and be a polite considerate reviewer, ever mindful
of the needs of my discerning reader. I tend to
avoid authors from non-catering backgrounds with small publishers. I
would hate to say something negative about someone’s life’s work, their
passion, their literary baby... so I don’t publish the review.
Here I was, once again, with the prospect of a culinary non-starter and
I knew this one had some 650 pages. So the bad news might be that it’s
another no-review, the good news might be that there was a lot of it!
Well, dear reader, you will have your review of What’s for Dinner?
because I think it’s quite marvellous. This falls into the ‘sensible’
category of cookbooks, those that are practical and usable. You might
think that every cookbook would have those aforementioned
prerequisites: no, they don’t.
The author, Romilla Arber, is a hard-working mum of 4 children. She
found that she was wasting time on numerous shopping trips because she
was always missing that key ingredient to make a dinner for the family.
She could browse numerous cookbooks but that would also take too much
time so she wrote her own book that would give both her and others the
tool to shop and cook in a timely fashion and avoid wasting time and
ingredients. You can visit Romilla's site and download shopping lists
for each week’s recipes.
(http://www.whatsfordinner.org.uk/shoppinglists) Tuck the list into
your purse/wallet and all your troubles will be little ones - you still
have to do the washing up.
This is the most amazing work for a first-time writer. To be honest, it
would be an amazing work from even a veteran writer. What’s for Dinner?
is a weighty tome but devoid of padding. Its text is clear, recipes to
the point and the photographs attractive, but it’s the format that is
appealing. Each day of the year has its recipe and those dishes
represent the way most of us eat these days... or at least the way we
should eat if we could cook. Hold that thought - more of that later.
The most difficult part of providing meals is just deciding what to
cook. You can learn to cook and those techniques will serve you well,
but you need to have an idea of what to cook for dinner. Your array of
lavish and celeb-endorsed cookbooks are great bedtime reading but let’s
be real, you need a battery of good recipes and someone to tell you
that tonight’s the night for Smoked Haddock Pie ...or they would be
telling you that if this was the first week in April. Romilla Arber is
the lady who will take the stress out of decision-making.
It’s no good having a cookbook that gives you a recipe for each day if
you just don’t like the food. You won’t use the book and therefore it’s
a waste of money. What’s for Dinner? has recipes that cover the whole
spectrum of British taste. There is a liberal sprinkling of curries,
recipes adapted from existing cookbooks and Romilla’s own family
recipes. OK, so I wouldn’t eat the Liver and Sausage Burger (mental
note: Don’t accept invitation to dinner on first Monday in January) but
that’s all - one out of 365 recipes (plus extra recipes for treats each
week) is pretty good going. All other dishes are delicious, quick,
economical and I’d be happy to cook and eat all of them. There are few
cookbooks that I would say that about, and to say it about such a large
one is no faint praise.
Romilla has founded the Food Education Trust, a charity dedicated to
educating adults and children in the basic skills of cooking. All
proceeds from the sale of “What’s for Dinner?” will go to the Food
Education Trust and will provide home economics-style classes to both
adults and children as well as supplying necessary cooking equipment to
schools. You are reading this review so you are obviously interested in
cooking. Glance around any supermarket and you will see, usually, young
women with perhaps a couple of kids and a shopping trolley piled high
with high-fat, high-sugar pre-prepared foods. If this lady knew how to
cook then she could save money and feed her family better. Cooking is a
life skill and one of the most important ones. Yes, it’s a skill that
anyone can learn. You don’t need chef’s whites and an Aga to turn out
good meals. I wholeheartedly support anything that promotes cooking at
any level.
What’s for Dinner? is a book you’ll buy for yourself because it’s a
good, solid cookbook. But consider it as a gift for anyone you know who
would like to eat better but professes to not having enough time. This
is outstanding value for money.
Cookbook review: What’s for Dinner?
Author: Romilla Arber
Published by: St. Christopher’s Publishing
Price: £24.95
ISBN 978-0-95479-314-2
World Whisky
Who knew? There are many hundreds of whiskies. I had
suspected that there might be perhaps a hundred
from small distilleries in Scotland and Ireland and a few in the US.
World Whisky lists over 700 whiskies from as far afield as Japan (the
Japanese have a reputation as whisky “enthusiasts”) and Australia.
I am not a Scotch drinker and when questioned I’ll deny that I like
whisky at all, but it’s a lie. I do quite like Irish whiskey which has
a different palate of flavours from Scottish whisky. There are those
who would let nothing but Mellow Corn Whiskey across the cabin
threshold so I guess it’s all a matter of taste, or lack thereof; Corn
Whiskey said to be best when consumed young but others say it’s just as
good if you keep it for a week or so.
World Whisky is a book to be savoured by the connoisseur but will be
equally welcomed by those who would like to be. Whisky is a drink to be
sipped, lingered over and appreciated. Although not a lover of The
Water of Life (uisge beatha in the Celtic tongue), I can understand the
attraction. Whisky is collected like fine wine, and anyone interested
in such a hobby would do well to invest in this book. There are ample
Tasting Note pages for you to create your own list of memorable bottles.
Each of the 700-odd whiskies has a history and taste profile. Old
Hokonui from New Zealand has a colourful past. It sports a
skull-and-crossbones on the bottle, giving it the air of the illicit
which I am sure has added to its popularity.
Yes, this volume presents the quaint and iconic spirits, but it is a
serious work and equips the reader with all he or she needs to choose
whiskies that will bring comfort to long winter evenings. You’ll learn
about the manufacture and evolution of the wee dram but, more
importantly, you’ll understand why each glassful tastes the way it
does. There is even information about which glasses to use, although
some folks say that whisky would taste good even drunk from an
envelope; but that’s the voice of desperation.
World Whisky is a hefty 350-page comprehensive guide to whisky: its
various classes, its paraphernalia, its past and its future. It’s a
fascinating story and illustrates the reason why whisky has remained
the beverage of choice for so many discerning drinkers. Great value for
money and an ideal Christmas gift.
World Whisky
Editor: Charles Maclean
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-4172-1
Tea and Crumpets
Well, the name is tempting but add a subtitle of Recipes
and Rituals from European Tearooms and Cafés, and my attention is captured!
Tea is a drink (or beverage if you hail from North American shores),
yes, that’s true, but it’s also an institution, an event, a ceremony. A
mug of tea, a doorstep sandwich and a doughnut (don’t write in – I do
love them) does not amount to Afternoon Tea... even if you are drinking
and eating the aforementioned items during those hours after lunch
(that’s dinner if you are from some parts of England) and before dinner
(supper if you are from those same parts of England).
Afternoon Tea is a rather formal pause. The table will be heaving with
a selection of sandwiches and other small savouries, a cake to slice as
well as small individual cakes, perhaps also some biscuits (those flat,
crunchy things - cookies). This is somewhat different from High Tea
which included a cooked dish and salads and was usually consumed late
afternoon or early evening.
The author of Tea and Crumpets, Margaret M. Johnson, presents us with
recipes for the best and most classic of Afternoon Tea delights. These
are baked goods familiar to European teatime enthusiasts and include
many traditional favourites from some of the finest venues in Britain,
Ireland and France.
Cucumber sandwiches are a famed afternoon tea staple. Margaret offers
Claridge’s Hotel’s version. The classic sandwich has the crusts removed
and can best be described as delicate. These dainties would not fill a
rugby player but work perfectly with all the other morsels on a
three-tier stand. Perhaps crusts were as offensive as piano legs to
genteel ladies of centuries past.
Crumpets are the stuff of many a Victorian childhood dream. They come
equipped with holes that beg to be filled with soon-to-be-melted
butter. Not perhaps a healthy option but if you are going to have a tea
party then you should do it well. Crumpets are made with a yeast batter
poured into crumpet rings on a skillet (griddle). You could use egg
rings or plain cookie (biscuit) cutters. It’s a simple recipe with a
unique result.
Traditional scones (a bit like American biscuits – not cookies) are
equally “evil”, being, if you are a purist, loaded with clotted cream
and strawberry jam. They are perhaps the most celebrated of the teatime
array as they also hold centre stage in another British institution,
the Cream Tea, which consists of just scones with their garnishes, and
cups of tea of course. Most British or Irish tea drinkers will take
their regular beverage with a little milk but never cream. Or have
those flavoured and aromatic teas without milk, but perhaps add a slice
of lemon.
Queen Victoria loved Shortbread. It’s another of those iconic afternoon
tea items. They are buttery and rich and come in a range of shapes and
sizes. They are not difficult to make but they should never be
overcooked. Just done with next to no colour is the secret.
Dundee Cake is another contribution from North of the Border. This is a
hearty cake that is a must for those cold afternoons when rib-sticking
fare and a roaring log fire (look, this is my review so I can conjure
up a log fire if I want one) are in order. Spicy Marmalade Loaf is a
lovely alternative and has Dundee orange marmalade as a key ingredient.
Oranges don’t grow in Scotland but that country does make some of the
most delicious marmalade.
Tea and Crumpets is a travelogue of smart tearooms. It’s a book that
will be welcomed by those who would like to participate in the revival
of a tasteful tradition. Tea taken at a posh hotel is a marvellous
experience, but a real tea party in one’s own home is a pleasure. Get
out your grandmother’s bone china service and charm your friends with
an artful display of culinary elegance. It’s easier than you might
think.
Cookbook review: Tea and Crumpets
Author: Margaret M. Johnson
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $19.95US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6214-1
Backroads of
the California Coast
It’s a change to write a travel book review about a place
to which I have been. California held much
promise and did not disappoint. It is a state that deserves to be
explored at a slow pace. You’ll get the best from this trip if you take
time to venture off the beaten path.
Perhaps, dear reader, I should say that you don’t need to venture off
the beaten path. Rather you want a path that has already been beaten by
adventurers, prospectors and settlers, and leads you to spots that hold
charm, beauty and historic elegance. Karen Misuraca has written
Backroads of the California Coast in order to assist you in your quest
to find that ideal and overlooked spot.
A travel book would be sorely lacking if it didn’t have a few nice
snaps. Garry Crabbe has done a stirling job with the photography for
this volume and there are more than just a few pictures – every page
has striking views, amazing seascapes, quaint buildings or glimpses of
wildlife.
Backroads are a series of books that offer scenic vacation routes for
those who want to know more about a particular state or region.
Backroads of the California Coast has that same format with the book
divided into three parts: The North Coast, The Central Coast and The
South Coast. Each of those sections covers the highlights and the
must-sees but equally includes those fascinating points of interest
that might easily be missed by the untutored traveller.
The North Coast leads you to, amongst others, Muir Woods and the Golden
Gate. The Central Coast suggests a visit to Hurst’s Castle which is the
once-seen-never-forgotten home of William Randolph Hurst. The Neptune
swimming pool is a piece of ancient Rome transported to the Californian
hills. There is a dining room of magnificent splendour with crystal
goblets and a ketchup bottle.
If you only have time to visit one section of the Californian coast
then take the South Coast. This has a real feel of Spanish California
with its missions and ranchos. Old San Diego is a place you’ll not want
to miss. Yes, there are the inevitable tourist shops but also so much
that is truly historic and worthwhile.
Backroads of the California Coast is an attractive guide for the
independent traveller. If you are even a little tempted by a trip to
California then take my advice and read this book before you go. It’s a
journey planner full of inspiration.
Backroads of the California Coast
Author: Karen Misuraca
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $21.99US, £13.99
ISBN 978-0-7603-3343-3
The Cook’s Guide to Meat
This is the second book in the new Apple Press series of
Cooks Guides, which it has been my pleasure to
review, the first being The Cook’s Guide to Fish. The Cook’s Guide to
Meat has the same hand-book-size and leatherette finish as the fish
guide and also enjoys the benefits of the same illustrator, Jane
Laurie. I feel she deserves as much acclaim as the writer, as her work
is so much a part of the success of the book.
The author, Jennie Milsom, was trained in French Culinary Arts and
Wines and Spirits, and has been a chef as well as a writer of features
and recipes for several magazines. In 2004 she became deputy cookery
editor of Good Housekeeping Magazine. This is her first book.
If you are at all interested in food, and meat in particular, then I
would recommend this book. It’s rare to find a book of such beauty and
detail, and containing so much practical advice. Meat is expensive and
few of us have money to burn, undercook, ruin or waste. You want to
present meals that are tasty and tender and to do that in the most
cost-effective way.
There have been a host of health scares over the last decade or two.
Many of us are concerned about animal welfare and we need to know that
the meat on the plate came from healthy and content animals which were
dispatched with the minimum of stress. Best advice is to find yourself
a good butcher and ask questions. The Cook’s Guide to Meat shepherds
you (this book considers sheep, cows and pigs) through choosing the
best meat and enables you to talk to the nice man behind the counter in
a fashion that will convince him of your knowledge of the subject.
There are hundreds of cookbooks which will offer recipes for meat
dishes and list “diced pork” or “slices of beef”. If you know the
cooking method to be employed then you will be able to buy the most
appropriate cuts of meat for the dish. You wouldn’t want to use
silverside for a stir-fry as it demands long slow cooking. Fillet on
the other hand is tender but will cost more. It’s horses (a rich, lean
meat prized by the French) for courses!
The Cook’s Guide to Meat offers advice on cooking each cut, describes
its flavour and where on the carcass the meat might be found. If the
particular cut has aliases then these too are noted – one person’s
tenderloin might be another’s pork fillet. There is a list of useful
utensils for cooking meat. I’d say a meat thermometer is indispensible
if you intend to prepare joints of meat. Such a gadget gives a novice
cook a bit of confidence and has saved this experienced cook from more
than one disaster. Buy one that has a probe that is inserted into the
meat before it reaches the oven. Set the temperature and then the alarm
will tell you when your joint has reached juicy perfection.
The Cook’s Guide to Meat is part of a soon-to-be classic series. A book
that is lovely to look at and packed with information that will save
you money. A marvellous gift.
Cookbook review: The Cook’s Guide to Meat
Author: Jennie Milsom
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-332-1
The Farmer’s
Wife Cookie Cookbook
If you are a regular visitor to Mostly Food Journal (and
why wouldn’t you be?) then you will be familiar with
the series of Farmer’s Wife cookbooks. They are compiled from original
recipes found in the magazine of the same name, published between 1893
and 1939 in Minnesota.
Cookie baking is an ideal introduction to kitchen pursuits. The virgin
cook has no fear with regard to baking biscuits (British term for
cookies). One might worry that a pastry case is a bit too crunchy. One
could have second thoughts about launching into soufflé
production lest they not rise. Well, with cookies the worst has already
happened. For the most part, you want the aforementioned crunch and
something flattish.
The Farmer’s Wife Cookie Cookbook concerns itself with sweet
confections, some of which might be considered as cake or dessert. Bars
and Squares have long been popular in the US and have taken hold
world-wide. Lemon Bars are my favourite from this chapter. It’s a
rather curious recipe demanding a first baking and then the addition of
beaten eggs, sugar, lemon juice and baking powder. The end result is a
tangy bar with a soft top. Just right with a nice cuppa tea.
Crullers are included in this book. It’s not a word commonly heard in
Britain. Although a cruller sounds like it should be a wild seabird it
is in fact a variety of doughnut: a deep-fried sweet pastry dusted with
sugar. These are usually made in strips or braids rather than rounds.
Funnel Cakes are also a glimpse of pure Americana. These comprise a
cake batter run through a funnel directly into hot oil. Think of a thin
delicate version of churros. A favourite at State fairs and such
gatherings.
Maple Syrup Cookies have my vote as a must-try. When it comes to that
rich liquid Maple syrup, to know it is to love it. It has, unlike most
sweet syrups, a real flavour. Don’t substitute corn syrup or Golden
Syrup or the end result of your labours will be entirely different from
that intended. Delicious perhaps, but a shadow of a real Maple Syrup
Cookie.
The Farmer’s Wife Cookie Cookbook is a book to be used. The
measurements are by volume as one would expect from an American
cookbook. This should hold no terrors for the European cook. It’s a
practical method and simple. The recipes have probably been tested by
generations of cooks who would not have had the luxury of modern
kitchen equipment. This is a charming book offering delicious goodies.
Cookbook review: The Farmer’s Wife Cookie Cookbook
Edited by: Lela Nargi
Published by: Voyager Press
Price: $15.99US, £10.99 UK
ISBN 978-0-7603-3513-0
Cook Express
This is another from the presses of Dorling Kindersley
that offers great value for money. Here we are again
with a cookbook for those who have neither the room nor inclination to
own a whole raft of cookbooks. If you have next to no time to cook then
chances are you will have even less time to leaf through a shelf or two
of recipe books, however gorgeous they might be.
Cook Express is designed with the strapped-for-time in mind. The
recipes are quick to make but also quick to find. There are handy
recipe choosers to allow you to find just the right dish for your
purposes. Fish starter in less than 15 minutes, Meat main meal under 30
minutes, etc. Each entry has a photograph, preparation time and cooking
time. Healthy options and suitability for freezing are also indicated.
The Everyday section of the book offers fast food without the need to
interrogate the takeaway (take out) flyers. You’ll not need to resort
to pre-packaged or frozen ready meals, and you’ll be eating healthy
fresh foods that won’t break the bank.
Pasta has long been prized as the instant home-cooked meal so it’s no
surprise to find lots of examples in this volume. You’ll not be
restricted to eating spaghetti with a bottle of tomato sauce and a
black olive for garnish. How’s about Pasta with Crab and Lemon? Only 5
minutes preparation and 10 minutes cooking. Macaroni Cheese with Red
Onion has the same 5 minutes for preparation and 20 minutes for
cooking, and you’ll be pouring a nice glass of red while it’s reaching
bubbling, golden perfection.
It’s often difficult to entertain when time is short so Cook Express
devotes about half its space to cooking for friends. Most dishes here
can be prepared in 10 minutes or so and the maximum would be 30
minutes. There are some suggestions for feeding a crowd in the Big-Pot
Gatherings chapter, with recipes for 8 servings still with only 30
minutes preparation for the most time-consuming.
Desserts can so often be fiddly and long-winded, and to present a
semi-frozen Arctic Roll from the box is such an anti-climax. Cook
Express has great ideas for cook-and-freeze-ahead desserts for those
who are attached to the icebox. Just defrost and reheat. OK, so there
might be 30 or 40 minutes of cooking time but you’ll be eating your
main course and not watching the crumble brown.
I have been inexorably drawn towards the end of the book where lurks a
list of Indulgent Puddings. Chocolate Amaretti Roulade will take half
an hour of your time to make and only 20 minutes to cook. The No-Cook
Desserts chapter offers Dark Chocolate and White Chocolate Mousse, and
Banoffee Pie which only takes 15 minutes to assemble.
Cook Express is a complete one-stop extravaganza for those in a hurry.
The 700 recipes in this 500-odd page tome will save you sufficient time
for you to reinforce your bookshelf, although this volume is liable to
spend more time on your kitchen counter than amongst your personal
library. Lots of practical and delicious dishes to suit every taste and
budget.
Cookbook review: Cook Express
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-4132-5
World Cheese Book
It’s days like this when I think that being a cookbook
reviewer is the most marvellous occupation. I have
been presented with 350 or so pages of unadulterated and odorous
delight. Every page I view increases taste-bud activity to the point
where a triangle of something in silver foil will just not cut the
mustard.
This is the most comprehensive encyclopaedia of cheese that this
reviewer has thus far examined. The author, Juliet Harbutt, has done an
excellent job of seeking out fine and fascinating cheese from every
corner of the world. This is a volume that does not just concentrate on
the obvious cheese-producing regions but also takes the path less
trodden to Eastern Europe, Israel, Japan and even Brazil.
It should come as no surprise that cheese is a popular foodstuff for
the majority of the world. If there is an animal giving milk then there
is sure to be a cheese producer nearby. The range of texture and taste
is amazing and this versatile product is used for both sweet and
savoury courses.
You don’t have to be a cheese connoisseur to appreciate this volume. We
all notice cheeses in even the regular supermarket. What do they taste
like? What do you do with them? Any good for cooking? World Cheese Book
lists cheeses by country. It gives a short description, tasting notes
and how to enjoy. There is also an at-a-glance information box which
gives location, age, weight and shape, size, milk, classification (soft
white, for example) and producer.
It’s the photographs which are striking. Each cheese has a shot showing
the whole cheese or wedge of cheese but there are also close-up shots
showing the texture and marbling. If you are searching for a pretty
cheese then go for Monet made in California and described as “a true
artist’s palate that reflects the beautiful gardens that surround this
coastal California Dairy.” It’s like a fine piece of porcelain
decorated with marigold and viola flowers: not a classic cheese but a
visual stunner. A soft, fresh cheese available all year round.
For a cheese that is best described as different then try Norway’s
Gjetost. This is a caramel-coloured cheese that tastes ...well, of
caramel. It is the dairy equivalent of Marmite: you either love it or
hate it. It’s very much an acquired taste but worth trying if you get
the chance. I probably wouldn’t include this as part of an
international cheese board, though. Savour its “delights” alone or with
a slice of spice cake.
World Cheese Book is an absolute “must have” for any cheese lover or
those who would like to know more. There is plenty of information about
cheese making as well as indispensible advice on selecting cheeses for
the perfect cheeseboard, and its accompanying wine. This would make a
marvellous Christmas gift but I would consider presenting it to your
loved one at the start of the festive season rather than on Christmas
morning. Allow them the benefit of this book’s wisdom before they do
the shopping. They will thank you for it. This is amazing value for
money!
Cookbook review: World Cheese Book
Author: Juliet Harbutt
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-3681-9
Sicilian Food
Originally published in 1989 it was out of print for ten
years or so. This new edition reminds us why Sicilian Food has been considered a
classic.
Mary Taylor Simeti arrived in Sicily fresh from college in America. She
worked as a volunteer at a centre for community development for $75 a
month. Her interest in cooking came through necessity rather than love
of the subject. Mary came from a well-heeled family in Virginia where
they enjoyed the services of a cook. This was probably a marvellous
environment to sample well-cooked food but hardly one that was going to
prepare anyone for doing the job themselves. Marriage to a Sicilian
eventually gave Mary the inspiration to look into the culinary history
and delightful confections of her adopted home.
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the largest
region of the modern state of Italy, but its relationship with the
mainland has been tempestuous. Italy had once been a group of separate
states ruled by France, Spain, Austria and other foreign countries,
until Guiseppe Garibaldi unified Italy and drove out the foreigners.
But Sicily was renowned for its delicious food before Italy was even a
twinkle in the eye of Garibaldi.
Sicily enjoys marvellous produce that has been noted and coveted since
the time of Homer. This volume considers the food heritage and presents
recipes from cooks, books and monasteries. There is much that is
recognisable as Italian but which might well have originated in Sicily.
Pasta is first seen in Italy at the time of the Arab occupation, not on
the mainland but in Sicily.
So let’s look at a pasta dish. Pasta Paolina Style (pasta alla Paolina)
was invented by the friars of the Monastery of San Francesco di Paola
in Palermo. It has both cinnamon and cloves along with anchovies and
tomato sauce. Quite an exotic departure from the more ubiquitous pasta
garnish of the tomato and herb-flavoured sauces of Italy.
The monasteries have played quite a part in the culinary tapestry of
Sicilian food. They have preserved ancient recipes that reflect good
taste and some quaint humour. Minni di Virgini (Virgins Breasts) are
much-prized small cakes – sometimes with a cheeky cherry on the top.
Sfinci Ammilati (Honey Puffs) are light balls of fried dough steeped in
honey. These were also filled with an egg custard or ricotta to
celebrate saints’ days.
Not everyone in Sicily was a nun or a monk. The island would be empty
by now if that had been the case. Ordinary folks would enjoy Roasted
Sweet Peppers (Pepperoni Arrostiti), Potato Croquettes (Croche di
Patate) and Chickpea Fritters (Panelle) which were all popular street
foods, and they would make lovely light lunches with just some green
salad and a dressing of fruity olive oil.
A classic this book might be, but it’s readable and witty. The recipes
are broad-based, covering peasant fare as well as elevated and noble
dishes. It’s a social history as well as a cookbook and would be a
great addition to any serious cookbook collection.
Cookbook review: Sicilian Food
Author: Mary Taylor Simeti
Published by: Grubb Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-902304-17-8
Paul
Gayler’s Little Book of Ice Creams and Sorbets
Paul is the chef at the Lanesborough Hotel in London. It’s
considered a “Destination” hotel and has a
restaurant to match that status. This man is a familiar face on British
food TV and is also an accomplished cookbook author.
All of Paul Gayler’s books (I have reviewed several to date) have been
innovative but I have been at pains to point out that they have not
been “chefy”. That’s a term that smacks of criticism and usually
indicates that the recipes are over-complicated and fussy. I am,
however, persuaded to use just that word for Paul Gayler’s Little Book
of Ice Creams and Sorbets.
No, dear reader, this writer has not changed her style of review. I
have not turned overnight into the Gordon Ramsay of the cookbook review
world. This time I use “chefy” as a compliment. These recipes are not
at all long-winded or fiddly but the chef has presented his culinary
credentials in the form of amazing combinations of ingredients and
textures that would have been difficult for a civilian to invent.
Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Ice Creams and Sorbets is an adult dessert
cookbook. The first few recipes are standards and one would expect to
find them here, but once settling you into a warm (or cold in this
case) sense of familiar security, Paul takes a detour.
The Ice Cream chapter starts innocently with a simple Vanilla Ice
Cream, but on closer inspection even this has a few exciting
variations. Paul suggests the addition of some lavender, Earl Grey tea,
lemon curd, dried breadcrumbs and rice pudding. You might be tempted to
linger, but turn a page or two and you’ll find more
soon-to-become-favourites.
Eggnog and Orange Peel Ice Cream could take the place of Christmas
Pudding chez nous. Dark rum in almost anything is good in my book and
it always reminds me of the holiday season. Keeping with the Christmas
theme Paul offers a Christmas Bombe. This looks like a mint-green
Christmas pudding but it’s a confection of ice cream and candied fruit.
Goats Cheese Ice Cream is rich and tangy. Paul uses regular milk in his
recipe but that could be replaced by goat’s milk to make this an ideal
dessert for those who are intolerant of cow’s milk. An alternative
frozen treat would be Coconut Milk, Yogurt and Red Chilli Sorbet.
Sophisticated and exotic.
How’s about Balsamic Butter Ice Cream? Paul serves this with Citrus
Fruit Salad and Passion Fruit Jelly (recipe in this book). Sweetcorn
Ice Cream would be quite a conversation piece. Black Pepper Ice Cream
is another show-stopper. I think this might go well with strawberries -
a different take on the traditional strawberries and cream.
Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Ice Creams and Sorbets packs a punch. It
might be a little book but it’s well worth the equally small price.
Paul once again showcases his skills and ability to think successfully
outside the box.
Cookbook review: Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Ice Creams and Sorbets
Author: Paul Gayler
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £ 7.99
ISBN 978-1-8562-843-1
Guinness
Paul Hartley has penned several brand cookbooks including
the Lyles Golden Syrup Cookbook and the HP Sauce
Cookbook (both
reviewed on this site), Marmite Cookbook and Heinz Tomato Ketchup
Cookbook. It’s probably safe to say that Paul has an eye for iconic and
popular products.
Guinness – An Official Celebration of 250 Remarkable Years offers us
firstly the history of “the black stuff”, “Girder”, “Liffey Water”, and
it is indeed a story worth telling. Any product that has lasted two and
a half centuries deserves a volume celebrating its longevity. There can
surely be only a handful of brands that have endured while the world
has changed so much.
Sake is synonymous with Japan, Whisky with Scotland and tea with
England, but Ireland has Guinness. It’s available around the globe and
is recognised even when poured. The distinctive dark brew with the
clerical collar has decorated bars on every continent and has tickled
the taste buds of almost every nationality.
This beer is in fact porter. No, dear reader, it doesn’t contain Port.
It’s named after the men who hauled vegetables and other foodstuffs in
London’s many markets. From 1799 the Guinness that we know today was
the only beer brewed by the company. Its association with food might
have started in Covent Garden Market and the like but it continues with
recipes using Guinness, and there are 18 or so fine and traditional
ones in this volume.
Steak pie with ale has been tempting diners for many a year. This has
become a classic dish because it works, so it’s no surprise to find
Beef and Guinness Puff Pastry Pie. Paul has added dried figs to this
version which helps as a foil for the slightly bitter beer.
A must-try from Paul Hartley’s collection is Guinness Honeycomb Ice
Cream. This recipe doesn’t need an ice-cream maker so there is no
excuse not to make it. It’s a simple dessert using Guinness and those
familiar chocolate-covered honeycomb bars. You know, the ones that are
a bit crunchy.
The section in Guinness that charts various advertising campaigns is
fascinating. We no longer consider Guinness as Good For You although
that was used as a persuasive slogan for a while. The Guinness for
Strength poster proved so popular that frequenters of “the local” would
ask for a pint of “girder”, making reference to the iron-beam-carrying
chap on the ad.
Guinness is a book full of evocative images and a story of vision. It
would be a great gift for anyone who enjoys the drink, who enjoys
cooking or who has an interest in advertising.
Cookbook review: Guinness
Author: Paul Hartley
Published by: Hamlyn-Octopus
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-0-600-61988-8
The Cook’s
Guide to Fish and Seafood
I see many cookbooks every week and hundreds every year.
Most are very nice, some are inspiring, there
are a few that would be better left as trees, and then there are the
gems.
Apple Press have done it again! This publisher never seems to put a
foot wrong. They present books that are marvellously practical but also
attractive, but they might just have surpassed themselves. The Cook’s
Guide to Fish and Seafood is one in a new series of books that will
become heirlooms.
Strong words, them. I am going to stick my reviewer’s neck out and say
that these small books, described as handbook-sized in leatherette, are
a must for any serious cook but also for any serious cookbook
collector. The author, Wendy Sweetser, trained at the Cordon Bleu
cookery schools in both London and Paris. She has penned fifteen other
food- and drink-related books as well as being food editor and feature
writer for OK, The London Magazine, and Period Living.
Most of us love the glossy, celeb chef cookbooks. What’s not to love...
mostly. But The Cook’s Guide books offer an in-depth look at culinary
subjects. They are well written but it’s the illustrations that are
striking. Food photography has reached amazing degrees of perfection
but no camera can present its subject in such charming detail as can
brush, watercolour and pen. The artist, Jane Laurie, has skills that
add character and elevate this volume to gift quality.
Elevated though these books surely are, they are far from simple
coffee-table dust-magnets. These are food manuals to read, learn from,
and to delve into. The Cook’s Guide to Fish and Seafood considers...
well, fish and seafood. Each fish has its illustration, and its
characteristics are described; its habitat, availability, cooking
method and substitution suggestions are all mentioned.
We know that fish is good for us but there is often the underlying
question, Are the stocks sustainable? The Cook’s Guide to Fish and
Seafood includes farmed fish where available, and notes when wild
varieties are in season. This helps the shopper to make informed
choices.
The Cook’s Guide to Fish and Seafood offers advice on choosing fresh
fish, equipment, storage, trimming, scaling and gutting, filleting and
skinning. It’s a marvel of a book that will be appreciated by cooks and
cookbook collectors as well as fishermen. Great Christmas gift and good
value for money.
Cookbook review:The Cook’s Guide to Fish and Seafood
Author: Wendy Sweetser
Illustrator: Jane Laurie
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-333-8
500 Casseroles and
Stews
You must by now, assuming you are a regular reader, know
how much I enjoy this 500 series from Apple Press. These chunky little
volumes are packed with recipes
and photographs. They offer a wealth of information and support for the
novice and a raft of ideas for the more experienced home cook.
Rebecca Baugniet, the author, has written two others in the 500 series:
500 Pies and Tarts, and 500 Pizzas and Flatbreads, and was food
consultant on two more. She is a freelance writer living on Canada’s
West Coast. She has penned a book which offers both traditional and
contemporary dishes and with 500 recipes to document it’s safe to say
that nothing much has been overlooked.
The colder weather will soon be with us... unless you live south of the
equator in which case I wish you a wonderful summer. We are drawn to
the fireside or the chair nearest the radiator and we yearn for warm
and hearty fare. Casseroles and stews are some of the most practical
and the least labour-intensive dishes around. That should be music to
the ears of those who are either strapped for time or long to be a
stranger to the inside of a kitchen.
These dishes are quick to prepare. They might take a bit of time to
cook but you don’t have to sit with the food. They use, mostly, one
dish and they often improve with keeping overnight. Entertaining
couldn’t be easier: make your main dish the day before. Feeding a crowd
can be economic as casseroles can take advantage of cheaper cuts of
meat.
Risotto isn’t a dish that one might immediately consider as a candidate
for a book entitled 500 Casseroles and Stews, but on reflection it’s
reasonable to include it. The International Favourites chapter offers
Italian Risotto with Scallops. This is a one-pot (with 5 minutes use of
a frying pan) meal and very stylish. It only takes 20 minutes or so to
cook and the preparation can be done in advance.
Quick and Easy Casseroles lists the traditional Cottage Pie. This is
Shepherd's Pie but made with minced beef rather than lamb. Hamburger
Stroganoff is another recipe which has good-value minced beef as its
key ingredient. Nothing wrong with that but get the best meat you can
afford. An alternative would be Minced Turkey Stroganoff.
My favourite from this book is Chilaquile Casserole. This is vibrant
and zesty and a Mexican-inspired layered dish which, although
vegetarian, is gutsy enough for carnivores to appreciate. Makes a
change from the ubiquitous tortillas or tacos. It’s comfort food with a
difference.
500 Casseroles and Stews is a book for cooks. Yes, it’s attractive but
it’s a book to use. The recipes are well written and consider
vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. The dishes are tempting and simple
with options for posh dinners with friends as well as family meals.
This is a lot of book for under a tenner.
Cookbook review: 500 Casseroles and Stews
Author: Rebecca Baugniet
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-328-4
The Cuisines of Spain
It’s the third largest country in Europe and has strong
historic links to North Africa. It faces both the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean, has mountain ranges, deserts and
fertile plains. Madrid, its capital, is the highest in Europe and
Spanish style is respected world-wide. It’s a land of diversity and
richness.
The landscape of Spain has helped it maintain a multitude of cultural
and culinary traditions. Each village might have a typical celebration
dish entirely different from that of its neighbour. Each family will
have its own interpretation but all will have common threads – quality
of ingredients and flavour.
Spain has offered so much to the dining tables of the world. Tapas are
a universal favourite, paella is now found in every Mediterranean town
or village, and who would want to live without Spanish olive oil? They
produce more in Spain than any other country.
The author of The Cuisines of Spain, Teresa Barrenechea, was born and
brought up in the Spanish Basque region in the north west of Spain. She
moved to New York City as press attaché to the Spanish
delegation of the United Nations. In 1991 she opened Marichu which was
considered as New York’s finest traditional Spanish restaurant. Her
previous book, Basque Table, was awarded the National Gastronomy Prize
in 1998.
If you have visited Spain then you would have tasted fine restaurant
food but perhaps, and this is probably true of every nation, you would
have eaten better and more authentic food in private homes. You might
not get that chance unless you kidnap a taxi driver or befriend your
hotel concierge so a good cookbook will be your next-best option. The
Cuisines of Spain could be that very book.
There are certainly dishes here that will be familiar to you - paella,
for example. But Teresa offers four varieties all hailing from the
Valencia region. Fideua is a seafood paella made with pasta. It has
similar ingredients to the more common rice-based seafood paella but
that rice is replaced with macaroni or angel-hair pasta.
Empanada Gallega (Bread Pie from Galicia) has a number of alternative
fillings and all of them are enticing. Empanada de Berberechos has
cockles and peppers, and Empanada de Sardinas has sardines and onions.
The pie I’d choose for a cold winter night with the TV (or log fire if
you are lucky) would be Empanada de Lomo. This has a rich and warming
stuffing of pork and chorizo with a sprinkle of extra paprika and
tomato sauce for good measure.
If you are a fan of the French Crème Caramel then you are sure
to love Crema Catalana. Whilst the traditional French version is turned
out on a plate and has caramel incorporated into the custard, the
Spanish version remains in its dish, has a hint of cinnamon and a crust
of caramel. The Cuisines of Spain offers a simple method for achieving
a good result.
This is one of my favourite books on Spanish cooking. The photography
by Christopher Hirsheimer and Jeffrey Koehler is marvellous. The
recipes are tempting and there is plenty of history and anecdote for
each one. The Cuisines of Spain will be sought after by lovers of real
Spanish food.
Cookbook review: The Cuisines of Spain
Author: Teresa Barrenechea
Published by: Ten Speed Press
Price: $40.00US, £38.00
ISBN 1-58008-515-6
What to Eat Now – More Please
OK, so I confess that I have not seen Valentine Warner in
his TV series of What to Eat Now. But that does rather
give me an edge when it comes to reviewing the cookbook. No
preconceptions, no prejudices, just an independent look. I wasn’t
expecting much - there are, dear reader, those recipe books that rest
on the laurels of TV shows. When they are good they are very very good,
but when they are bad they are horrid.
Reviewing What to Eat Now – More Please has been a truly pleasant
experience. It’s a many-faceted delight. A good read, a laugh, lovely
artwork from our hero, and some of the best food photography around
from Howard Sooley, but also food stylist Sarah O’Keefe should get a
mention. There are lots of pictures that are imaginative and full of
humour.
Yes, I do appreciate good food photography and sketches, but the food
will be the reason you’ll buy the book. It’s a first-rate collection of
spring and summer dishes that will tempt you away from your
casserole-garnished winter and into the lighter fare of the warmer (we
hope) months. There is plenty here for both meat-eaters and vegetarians.
Orangey Honey Buns are syrup-drenched desserts made from a yeast-based
sponge. Valentine says they are ideal for afternoon tea but also as a
pudding at 3 o’clock in the morning!
I had always thought that a Greek Breakfast was five cigarettes, two
cups of thick coffee and a swing or two of some worry-beads, but here
Valentine offers home-made Greek yoghurt with fennel seeds, thyme and
oregano, served with a juicy peach. What could be nicer on a bright
summer morning!
Potted Crab is one of the most appealing dishes in the book. Yes it is,
without doubt, a fiddle. There is no way that I will describe it as
done in a flash, easy as falling off a lobster pot... or whatever they
catch crabs in. It is equally true to say that there is nothing like
the taste of real crab from the shell. It’s worth the effort.
The book’s signature dish is, for me at least, Prawn Tangiers. This is
a marvellous concoction of prawns, spinach and tomatoes, perfumed with
cumin seeds and garlic. Serve this with some fresh bread and a big
spoon.
What to Eat Now – More Please has been a joy and I’ll continue dipping
into its pages. I’ve already chosen the next recipe to try: looks like
the Green Bean Chutney!
Cookbook review: What to Eat Now – More Please
Author: Valentine Warner
Published by Mitchell Beazley
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84533-487-1
Sicily – Culinary
Crossroads
This is one of a series of books on Italy’s food culture
by Oronzo Editions. They are a publisher that
specialises in translations of Italian cookbooks and they certainly
seem to have filled a gap in the market with this volume. This is the
second in the series and takes a look at a cuisine that is rather
unique.
Sicily is not only at a culinary crossroads but a crossroads in every
sense. It has been invaded by those who chose to settle, it has been
invaded by others who passed through at speed, being pursued by the
next wave of invaders who might linger longer. Those lingerers left
their mark on language and tradition, and have played a part in
providing Sicily with its diverse nature.
Its geographic position ensured that it was never going to be
overlooked by its more powerful neighbours. In fact anyone with a boat
has made for Sicily. Greeks praised it, Romans coveted it, Arabs
settled it, even Armenians and Spaniards stayed for a while or stayed
for good. Each added to the food culture to a greater or lesser extent.
This book has its focus on old family recipes. It considers dishes that
are possibly in danger of being lost. Globalization has tended to put
at risk anything that is regional and different, and paints everything
with the banality of International food. Don’t look here for Italian
food. Yes, there are meatballs but they are Sicilian. Pasta is present
but served with a Sicilian sauce.
Sicily – Culinary Crossroads is divided into four provinces and each of
those has chapters covering first courses, fish dishes, meat dishes,
vegetables, cheese, fruits and sweets. Each section starts with an
overview of geography, history and food anecdotes. Don’t feel tempted
to skip these preambles, they add much to the charm of the book.
I marvel at the simplicity of the recipes - very few with lengthy lists
of ingredients. Pasta a la Norma only has eight ingredients and one of
those is salt. It’s a celebrated dish named after an opera by Bellini,
who came from Catania. This is pasta dressed with a tomato sauce and
garnished with aubergine (eggplant) and salted ricotta (salata
ricotta). Not a fussy dish and all the better for it.
Pasta Siracusa-Style is the last word in easy, flavourful and
traditional cooking. Few ingredients but each of those being essential
to the success of the dish. Anchovies and olive oil are not new
companions, but add some toasted bread and it’s comfort on a plate.
There are delightful pastries, many of which trace their origins to
convents. St. Clair’s Big Face hails from the convent of St. Claire at
Noto. It’s an amusing name for a delicious confection of sponge, lime
marmalade, almond paste, chocolate frosting and an angel. A paper angel
can be used if a real one is unavailable.
This island isn’t so much a borrower, it’s more a borrowed from. It’s
been famed for its fine food and expert cooks since classic Greek
times. Sicilians have had a wealth of delicious ingredients at their
disposal and they have known how to use them to best advantage. Sicily
– Culinary Crossroads charts the history of these people and helps to
safeguard their extraordinary culinary heritage. A great addition to
any serious cookbook collection. An archive and masterwork.
Cookbook review: Sicily – Culinary Crossroads
Author: Giuseppe Coria, Translated by: Gaetano Cipolla
Published by: Oronzo Editions
Price: $24.95
ISBN 978-0-9797369-3-3
Britain’s Best Dish
This book takes its name from the ITV series. It showcases
those recipes that have been successful in
three series from 2007 to 2009. The competitions were judged by three
of the British food industry’s most celebrated worthies in the guise of
Ed Baines (chef and author), John Burton Race (chef and “star” of
French Leave) and the effervescent Jilly Goolden who expertly fronted
the liquid element of BBC Food and Drink.
This is quite a bumper volume and an eclectic mix of dishes which truly
reflect British food tastes, and admirably reinforces the fact that
British food is no longer dull and boring and to be shunned at any
cost. British ingredients are top quality and they are put to good use
in this selection of over 130 recipes.
We are talking British food rather than “traditional” British food.
Yes, there are some good old-fashioned favourites like Trifle and
Yorkshire Ginger Parkin and it’s appropriate that they are included,
but this book takes a broad look at what Britain in general eats.
What you eat depends on where in Britain you live and your ethnic
background. The subcontinent is well represented as one would expect.
Lamb Biryani, Red Lentil Soup with Lentil Vadai and Lamb Tikka Masala
are all listed but also several Caribbean dishes that are worthwhile:
Jerk Chicken with Rice and Peas and Caribbean Curried Goat. The
Dumplings served with this are real comfort food.
We in Britain do smoked fish better than most and Craster Smoked Fish
Pie uses both natural smoked haddock (that’s not the luminous yellow
one) and smoked salmon. A cheese sauce and mashed potatoes top the pie
which is served with spinach, watercress and rocket salad.
There’s a delicious choice of desserts here. Summer Pudding is a
well-loved classic and this one is made even more special by the
addition of crème de cassis. OK, so that’s not British but it
travels well. And keeping with that theme of cross-channel exchange
there is Orange Liqueur Tart with Chocolate Sauce. This has a
chilli-spiked pastry which sounds amazing. A definite must-try.
Of all the sweet things Toffee Bakewell Tarts have my vote. The
original has just a pastry base, some jam and a frangipane sponge. This
new version has a toffee filling and a lemon syrup along with the
sponge and is presented with a Champagne Lemon Martini. A great end to
a dinner party.
Britain’s Best Dish is one of my Desert Island cookbooks... assuming
the desert island has a good butchers and a fishmonger. This is a good
solid book with delightful recipes which are written by home cooks for
home cooks. I am happy to own this one.
Cookbook review: Britain’s Best Dish
Authors: British Cooks
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-5001-3
Cooking with Kids
Don’t get alarmed, dear reader, Cooking with Kids isn’t
suggesting that you have children as the main or
even incidental ingredient. No, this is about encouraging your
youngsters into the kitchen and teaching them skills that will serve
them well through life.
Many of us rue the day when cookery lessons were abolished. Pupils were
instead given Home Economics lessons and learned the nutritional value
of all kinds of foods that they would never know how to cook. They
would understand the principles of healthy eating but would buy from
the freezer counter because, well, what do you do with mange-tout?
Kids love helping mum and dad and they naturally view cooking as fun.
It has all the elements of play: mixing, rolling, filling, painting and
decorating; add the prospect of actually eating the end result of a
good time, and happiness is assured.
Erin Quon is an award-winning, San Francisco food stylist. Her
co-author and 5 year old daughter, Tatum, evidently gave invaluable
advice about child-friendly recipes. Not only is the food delicious but
the process of making all these dishes will delight your young chefs
and leave them with a love of a variety of good things to eat. Anyone
who cooks is less likely to be a fussy eater.
There are four recipe chapters starting with Rise and Shine, then Snack
Timse, Dinnertime and Sweets. Each recipe has clearly-marked activities
for kids. A chef’s hat and orange text will show the tasks that are
easy for small hands. Any help needed from adults will be in the form
of handling any hot pans, lighting ovens and hobs, filling blenders,
etc. It’s all about cooking WITH your children.
Although the dishes are designed to be tempting to children they will
be equally welcomed by the whole family. Chicken Chow Mein is quite
sophisticated and your youngster will proudly announce that he made the
sauce. Adults need not fear that this is baby food. These are dishes
that you might even consider making when the kids are not around. OK,
your icing on cookies might not be so thick nor as colourful as when
made by small hands, but the recipe will be the same.
There are some delightful recipes here. Chocolate Peanut Butter
Brownies are bound to please the whole family. Creamy Sweetcorn Chowder
has, as you would expect, sweetcorn but also potatoes, celery, carrot
and onion. Your children are bound to enjoy eating food that they have
helped prepare, so take advantage of that attitude and get them to cook
with plenty of fruit and vegetables. Yoghurt Sundaes are stunners.
Packed with fruit and topped with granola (muesli), these would make a
healthful and smart breakfast or dessert.
Cooking with Kids has recipes that are fun to make and delicious. This
isn’t a toy. You can’t just hand the book to your 6 year old and expect
dinner in an hour. The point is that you spend time together but it has
the added bonus, and a big one, of teaching youngsters to love good
food. A worthwhile volume and a great gift for those with children.
Cookbook review: Cooking with Kids
Author: Erin and Tatum Quon
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-342-0
Seriously
Good Gluten-Free Cooking
I am sure the title will encourage many a cookbook-shelf
scanner to move right on by this book.
Gluten-Free! That’s got something to do with being ill, hasn’t it? I’ve
never felt better. Not interested. Well, OK, all that having been said,
let’s actually have a look.
You might have heard the word coeliac. Sounds like a type of small
pterodactyl but it is, in fact, an autoimmune disease affecting the
gut. It can sometimes be mistaken for irritable bowel syndrome and has
symptoms as diverse as skin rash, defective tooth enamel, nausea and
abdominal pain. These symptoms are triggered by gluten found in wheat,
barley and rye and sometimes oats.
Phil Vickery is a well-acclaimed chef in the UK who oft graces our TV
screens. He noticed a gap in the market for gluten-free products and
this book is a continuation of that interest. It doesn’t, however, read
like a Red Cross manual. It’s not about avoiding food, it’s rather
about good food that the whole family can eat together.
There are a surprising number of foods that include gluten. I would not
have expected fizzy drinks to be a problem but they often contain
barley flour. Coffee from vending machines and beer, lager, stout and
ale all contain gluten. This volume has recipes that avoid those
products that would be upsetting for a coeliac.
One might expect that a waffle would be out of the question but Phil
has Salt and Pepper Eggs on Rice Waffles. It contains rice flour and
gluten-free baking powder, and those same ingredients are seen again in
Flat Mushrooms with Basil Pancakes.
The food here isn’t bland and beige. Crispy Pork Salad with Lemon
Dressing is a riot of colour and taste. Marinated Smoked Salmon with
Pickled Ginger is exotic but simple to make and contains tamari, a
Japanese gluten-free soy sauce. Quick Tofu Miso Soup stays with the
Japanese theme.
Cakes and pastries are rare in the diet of anyone avoiding gluten. They
are all heavy on flour but this book has quite an array of goodies that
will cause no problems. Soft Lemon and Lime Bar Cakes uses chestnut
flour. Orange and Lime Shortbread has cornflour and rice flour.
There are several outstanding recipes here. They are noteworthy because
they are delicious and just happen to be gluten-free. Rich Chocolate
Brownies with Caramel Sauce uses chickpea flour, Fudgy Almond Cake with
Mint Syrup and Frosting has ground almonds instead of regular flour.
But the pick of this book is Tangy Lime Mousse with Mint Muddle. Phil
made this on the Paul O’Grady TV show and has had lots of requests for
it. This is rich and comforting and a visual stunner.
Seriously Good Gluten-Free Cooking will be sought after and appreciated
by coeliac sufferers but it’s a book with great healthy ideas for all
of
us. It’s an attractive book with simple recipes that use ingredients
that might be new to you, but that’s the charm of cooking - exploring
something deliciously different.
Cookbook Review: Seriously Good Gluten-Free Cooking
Author: Phil Vickery
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £19.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-828-8
The Eagle Cookbook
If you are not from London then perhaps you might not know
about the Eagle Cookbook. No, dear reader,
it’s not a right-wing American recipe book subtitled Tasty Meals from
Our National Emblem. This is the book of the first Gastropub. That’s a
pub that serves (or is supposed to) great food along with your pint.
A few years ago British pub food was nothing to write home about. Or
perhaps it was too frequently written home about: “Dear Abner, Martha
will soon be out of plaster after the accident with the Scottish egg.”
Toasted sandwiches were a main-stay and you would never be far from a
pork scratching (pork rind).There has been a general trend towards
better food in many pubs but a Gastropub has food at the centre of the
enterprise.
The Eagle was an unprepossessing hostelry (OK, so it was a dump) till
two enterprising chaps (David Eyre and Mike Belben) took charge. They
transformed it into a pub with tempting and inspiring grub. I shrink
from saying “Fine” because that conjures images of crisp table cloths,
crisp waiters and an embarrassing array of cutlery and glasses.
The Eagle is an old-fashioned pub and is the venue for comforting and
hearty fare. The Eagle Cookbook not only reflects the pub’s menu but
also the way we eat in Britain today. There is, instead of bangers and
mash, Grilled Fennel Sausages, Lentils and Green Sauce. If you want
some mash then consider Smoked Haddock with Horseradish Mash and
Poached Egg (one of the best dishes in this book.) Banished are the
luminous, breadcrumbed nuggets of scampi, to be replaced by Grilled
Squid Piri-Piri.
All the recipes have the feel of home cooking. Some of those homes
might be a long way from British shores but they all have that real
food quality about them. There is nothing here that is fiddled with.
It’s all straightforward and flavourful, and accessible to the home
cook.
Octopus Stew with Spices from Goa, from chef Tom Norrington-Davies, is
outstanding. The amazing flavour comes from a spice paste that’s easy
to make with ingredients that you’ll doubtless already have in your
larder. It’s a vindaloo-esque paste that is also good with pan-fried
squid and will be a good base for any quick spicy stir-fry.
Another favourite is Jensson’s Temptation, a side dish and a Swedish
classic. This version is from chef/author Trish Hilferty. It’s a
delicious concoction of potatoes, onions, garlic and, most importantly,
anchovies. Also try Peas with Chorizo and Poached Egg, from David Eyre.
This is a Portuguese recipe for a dish that makes a perfect light
winter lunch or late supper. It has sweetness from the vegetables, heat
from the sausage, and creamy comfort from the egg yolk.
The Eagle Cookbook is full of food that I like to eat. The recipes have
broad appeal and they are simple to make. It’s Gastropub cooking at its
best but also proper home cooking. This is bound to be a best
seller.
Cookbook review: The Eagle Cookbook
Author: David Eyre and The Eagle chefs
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9781906650056
The Ultimate
Garden Designer
The “ultimate” anything has got to be good. What would
this Garden Designer variety have to offer? It
needed to be a comprehensive tome covering every aspect of the subject.
Needless to say I had visions of a book the size of a small garden shed
or at least a rabbit hutch.
This is a surprisingly trim volume for the information it holds: 250 or
so pages with over 500 photographs, plans and illustrations. The secret
of success for this book is its variations on a theme. The chapter
concerning A Small Sheltered Garden, for instance, has a design,
planting, features but includes four alternative plans for a long
narrow plot, a corner plot, a triangular plot and a rotated aspect.
Consider this a horticultural take on 500 Cookies, with the basic
recipe and then some options.
There are a full fifteen garden types considered by the author, Tim
Newbury. Part One of the book looks at those gardens: cottage gardens
and formal gardens, front gardens and roof gardens, enclosed gardens
and gardens for special needs. Then Part Two takes an in-depth view of
garden features, starting with water and finishing with pots and
containers. Part Three has a plant directory that has all the
information you’ll need on the plants proposed in any and all of the
garden designs. It’s the mixing and matching of ideas and possibilities
that has enabled Tim to cram so much between the covers.
The Ultimate Garden Designer has just about everything that a novice
gardener would need to transform an existing garden or to plan a garden
around a totally empty space. Tim doesn’t assume that you are familiar
with plants nor that you have a plot the size of a working farm. He
even presents a tiny, low maintenance garden that is 7metres by 7
metres. For lovers of TV garden design programmes Tim has a split-level
garden with decking and water feature!
If you are embarking on garden design or redesign then this might well
be the book for you. The Ultimate Garden Designer is packed with advice
and ideas and is very reasonably priced. This would make a lovely
house-warming gift.
The Ultimate Garden Designer
Author: Tim Newbury
Published by: Octopus
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-600-61987-1
Paul Gayler’s
Little Book of Pasta and Noodles
If you are a regular visitor then you will already be
familiar with Paul Gayler's cookbooks. For those others
who are visiting for the first time I’ll introduce you. Paul is the
chef of The Lanesborough, one of the smartest spots in London. He has
written a collection of cookbooks which act as showcase for his
unarguable skills and a source of pleasure for his readers.
This book has the same quality of recipes, the same conversational
style but it’s little. The clue is in the title, Paul Gayler’s Little
Book. It’s a condensed volume that has a single focus, in this case of
Pasta and Noodles. There are 50 or so recipes here for meals that are
easy and fast. A baked dish might take 20 minutes but you’ll not be
talking to it through the oven door for the duration - you’ll be
finishing The Times crossword or watching the Simpsons. And the
majority of dishes take half that time.
Paul has, as always, found recipes that offer something a bit
different. These dishes never seem contrived or chefy. They are written
with the home cook in mind and range from traditional to innovative
with a bit of fusion for good measure.
Pasta making isn’t as frightening as you might think. If this writer
can do it then you’ll have no problem. Paul supplies a basic recipe but
if you don’t feel confident then use the commercial pasta, but do make
the sauces.
Pasta Carbonara is a dish oft-found on Italian restaurant menus. It has
few ingredients but those ingredients produce a rich and comforting
sauce. Paul also suggests Funghi Carbonara which is a vegetarian
version of the original and should become a classic. This dish takes
only as long as the pasta takes to cook - 8 minutes or so for dried
pasta and even less than that for fresh.
I am a lover of a good baked pasta. They are hearty and comforting
dishes and take no more preparation than a regular bowl of pasta. Baked
Smoked Haddock Pasta has my vote. This isn’t a vegetarian option as it
has a little bacon but that bacon does add to the flavourful result.
Spicy Vegetable and Cashew Ramen is a colourful and tasty dish that
you’ll be eating in ten minutes. Paul uses sugar-snap peas, red
peppers, aubergine and shiitake mushrooms, although the dressing would
work well with almost any combination of vegetables.
Paul Gayler tempts the reader into the kitchen. He is neither
intimidating nor patronising. You will use his books because the food
is delicious. It’s an attractive volume but Paul will be very pleased
if it’s covered with tomato sauce, flour and a flake or two of
pecorino.
Cookbook review: Paul Gayler’s Little Book of Pasta and Noodles
Author: Paul Gayler
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-185626-842-4
Backroads of Arizona
I have reviewed another book by author Jim Hinckley and
photographer Kerrick James (about Route 66), so I
knew what to expect. A high-quality picture travelogue with images of
the past and the present. Images that charm and mystify and eloquently
tell the story of the state of Arizona.
The state might be the epitome of the historic Wild West but the young
Jim Hinkley was less than impressed when he arrived with his parents in
1966. He says it was a place warned about in Sunday school. Well,
that’s a notion that might attract as many people as it would deter.
The author came to love the space and majestic beauty of Arizona and
has been sufficiently enamoured by it to remain there, marry and bring
up his son. It has everything that either an American or overseas
tourist could wish for. Rocks, deserts, oases, ghost towns, London
Bridge, cowboy cemeteries... What was that about a bridge? Surely you
jest? No, dear reader, I do not. London Bridge was sold to America, was
dismantled and rebuilt at Lake Havasu City. There is a rumour back in
London that the buyers thought they were purchasing Tower Bridge.
Ooops!
There is a deal of rustic humour here. The author has a picture of a
grave in Boot Hill. It reads: “Here Lies Lester Moore, Four Slugs From
a 44 No Les No More.” And a nice view of the gallows at the courtyard.
Perhaps the shots (if you pardon the pun) are connected. Those who
missed the drop could contemplate their misdemeanours in the comfort
(here I do jest) of Yuma Territorial Prison.
Backroads of Arizona offers four routes, each one with its own
attraction and charm. There are maps and plenty of historic background
information. The photographs give a real and striking impression of
this time-capsule of a state. There are horses, trading posts, Indian
ruins, cactus and everything you would have seen in a John Ford
Western. This isn’t, however, a film set. This is a view of your next
vacation.
Backroads of Arizona
Author: Jim Hinckley
Published by: Voyageur Press
Price: $21.99, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7603-2689-3
The Hairy Bikers
Ride Again
If you watch British TV then you would know of the Hairy
Bikers, but there are those who have not, thus far,
been fortunate enough to get to know these boys. You are missing a
treat.
Dave Myers and Si King are two northern lads with passions for travel,
bikes and food. Their books are paper versions of their TV series,
being part travelogue and part cookbook. You have no need to feel
alienated if you don’t give a spark plug about a Harley something or
other. This isn’t a biker’s survival manual just a rather good cookbook
derived from the Hairy Bikers’ road trips.
It is a diverse and fascinating recipe book. How many other authors
would have the nerve to present recipes from India, Argentina, Belgium
and Morocco in the same volume? There is, however, a common thread:
delicious and accessible food. Each chapter is liberally laced with wry
northern wit and dishes that are appetising and traditional.
The Indian chapter offers Lamb Chop Pakoras. I confess that I had not
come across these before but what a great idea. There can be nothing
wrong with deep-fried anything, in my estimation (everything in
moderation) and anything coated in a batter can only add to the joy.
The chops are poached in a milk and spice mixture before being fried in
a batter spiced with mustard seed and cayenne pepper.
Masala Iced Coffee is far more delicious than the regular iced coffee
of Costabucks in your high street. This version is spiced with vanilla,
ginger, cardamom and cinnamon. It’s just as nice hot, but if we get a
summer then a long cool coffee with merry ice a-chinking will be
welcome.
Argentina is famed for its beef, tango and crying, but Dulche de Leche
Cheesecake is quite a marvel. The key ingredient is a tin of boiled
condensed milk (the same as that used for Gypsy Tart). This is rich,
flavourful and a bit different from your more usual New York-style
cheesecake.
What do you think of when you think of Belgium? Nothing (unfair!).
Truth to tell, Belgium has as bad a reputation for food as Britain has,
and with just as little reason. They have lovely mussels, chips (fries)
with mayonnaise, waffles, fish of all kinds... and chocolate. The Hairy
Bikers have a dark Chocolate Mousse from Bruges garnished with some
double cream. It looks like a thick Irish coffee. The secret is to use
good-quality chocolate.
Salad Zaalouk is a Moroccan Aubergine salad. It’s not a puree although
it is mashed. It has a bit of body and plenty of flavour from garlic,
cumin, paprika and preserved lemons. Don’t leave these out as they add
some necessary bite. Serve this as part of a Moroccan salad selection
or as a starter for a North African meal.
There are 100 or so dishes in The Hairy Bikers Ride Again. They are all
very fine and I’d not turn my nose up at any of them. Both Dave and Si
can cook a bit and that, combined with their way with words, makes this
another winner. It’s a great read with funny anecdotes but also
humanity and charm. Love it.
Cookbook review: The Hairy Bikers Ride Again
Authors: Dave Myers and Si King
Published by: Michael Joseph – Penguin
Price: £22.00
ISBN 978-0-718-14909-3
Duchy Originals
Cookbook
If ever there was a cookbook review I wanted to get right
it’s this one. Johnny Acton and Nick Sandler are
two very witty and talented cookbook authors. Although elevated to
something approaching stardom on this site (perhaps that’s a bit much
but their Preserved book was very nice), those two chaps bow to the one
who wrote the foreword to Duchy Originals Cookbook, HRH Prince Charles,
The Prince of Wales, Duke of Cornwall.
Most of us would have seen Duchy Originals products on our supermarket
shelves. The packaging is tasteful and understated but with a little
crest that does carry a bit of authority (the biscuits also sport the
crest). It’s a mark of quality which can be trusted. How many products
have such a royal stamp of approval? The more often-seen coat of arms
with By Appointment to Her Majesty only indicates that a product has
been used by the royal household. Duchy Originals have a much closer
connection: it’s a brand personally devised by Prince Charles to
promote good food thoughtfully produced.
Johnny and Nick have compiled a selection of recipes that either use
Duchy Originals-labelled goods or organic or sustainable produce. The
emphasis is on quality. It isn’t, however, a book of vegetarian or
over-worthy dishes. It’s more a reflection of how we eat today... or
how we should eat: seasonal, fresh, low air miles and healthy.
The photography by Jonathan Gregson is stunning. He has captured a
wealth of images of baby pigs and lambs that almost encourages me to
give up eating meat... almost. There are pictures of animals, food and
fishermen, cattle breeders and a cooper (barrel-maker, who looks like
Mel Gibson) which give the book a sumptuous quality.
A recipe book should have food at centre-stage and this one does. There
is plenty of innovation – I expect that from these authors. They use
the products to create dishes that are delicious, not over-chefy, and
visually striking. The chapters are divided by season and each one is
packed with information about producers and their lives and food
passions.
There is a very British bias to the recipes as one might expect but
this isn’t the bland fare of legend. This is more a reflection of good
British food as it once was and of how it can be. Flat Bake with
Streaky Bacon and Vintage Cheddar is a British pizza. Johnny and Nick
offer Cannelloni but here it is stuffed with smoked ham and cheddar.
The ever-popular French Profiteroles are listed but in this case with a
filling of whipped cream laced with Duchy Originals Lemon Curd, and the
pastries then drizzled with a tangy lemon syrup.
Marmalade Cake with Honeycomb Filling has the delicate flavour of
oranges but the crunch and sweetness of honeycomb, made with Duchy
honey. I have made this with sugar before but this version is much more
appealing. If you don’t have time to make the cake then just make the
honeycomb. Dip in chocolate and give as Christmas gifts. It won’t last
till the end of the year!
My pick of this book is Apple Crumble with Highland Shortbread. The
fruit base is perfumed with both honey and calvados, with a suspicion
of cinnamon. The topping is a bit of a break with tradition as it uses
Duchy Originals Shortbread (those with the posh coat of arms stamped on
each biscuit), crumbled with a bit more butter. This elevates the
traditional crumble into adult dinner party dessert.
Duchy Originals Cookbook is a book that tempts, educates and charms.
His Royal Highness chose the best authors for the job. This could have
been a serious and academic tome but the lads have worked their usual
magic and have presented us with a book of fab food and a wry smile.
Cookbook review: Duchy Originals Cookbook
Authors: Johnny Acton and Nick Sandler
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £25.00
ISBN 1-85626-653-2
Gorgeous Greens
Well, it sounds like an oxymoron (ok, look it up).
Gorgeous Greens. It’s an expression used by my parents
and many others as a term for all vegetables, just like the word
greengrocer refers to a shop that sells every kind of vegetable and not
just those of a greener hue. This isn’t a vegetarian cookbook but it
has veggies at centre-stage rather than as a garnish to meat or fish.
Annie Bell is without a doubt one of my favourite cookbook authors. I
have had the pleasure to review a couple of her other books (Gorgeous
Cakes and Gorgeous Desserts), and Gorgeous Greens has not disappointed.
It has the same wit, easy-to-follow recipes and gorgeous (that word
again) pictures by Chris Alack who is one of the best food
photographers around.
Greens, gorgeous or otherwise, have had a bad press down the ages.
There was not a wide range of vegetables to tempt the palate of most
northern Europeans till relatively recently. As late as the 1960s
little could be found in greengrocers other than a selection of
potatoes (white or red, madam?) some onions (spring or Spanish,
darlin’?), cabbage (the big one at the back?) and tomatoes (salad or
squashed, love?). But, thank goodness, things have changed and we all
have access to an amazing array of produce, and we know that we should
all eat more vegetables – five a day of fruit and veg – so let’s not
allow it to become a chore.
There is nothing bland about this book. It’s vibrant in both colour and
taste. There are no insipid, over-boiled crimes against vegdom here.
There are fresh tastes and fresh concepts that keep one turning the
pages. There are cooked and raw dishes that will encourage even the
most dedicated carnivore off the meat wagon. They range from delicate
dips and side dishes to hearty bakes and tarts, with sometimes just a
hint of smoky bacon or a glimpse of the pink of a prawn.
There are several dips that are traditional but with a Bell twist, like
Aubergine puree but with pomegranate and almond. This looks bejewelled
and attractive and a bit more appetizing than the original, which
although delicious looked beige and uninteresting. Crushed Goats Cheese
and Anchoiade is, as the name suggests, two dips that can be served
separately or together to give a real taste of the south of France.
I am a pie lover so Bubble and Squeak Pie was bound to be one of my
picks. Bubble and squeak refers to the noise made by leftover potatoes
and cabbage as they were fried the next day. Annie presents this in the
form of a puff pastry pie. It transforms the tasty vegetables into a
main meal that could become a vegetarian classic. I’d cook vegetables
especially to make this dish.
Courgette, Smoky Bacon and Rosemary Clafoutis is probably my favourite
recipe from this collection. This is simple to make, smart and
versatile. It’s a savoury version of the French dessert made with plums
or cherries. The combination of courgette and bacon is a winner but
once you have mastered the batter then the world is your oyster... or
perhaps onion, or maybe goat’s cheese...
Gorgeous Greens is as good as I expected it to be. The recipes are easy
and Annie Bell has a style of writing that is accessible and engaging.
Great value for money, and inspiring.
Cookbook review: Gorgeous Greens
Author: Annie Bell
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-839-4
The Press Club
Sounds like a haunt for elderly, heavy-smoking,
heavy-drinking journalists. The Press Club is, in fact, a
highly-acclaimed restaurant in Melbourne, Australia and it’s all about
modern Greek cookery. The author, George Calombaris, is the head chef
at the Press Club and the talent behind this marvellous array of
contemporary dishes.
The prospect of modern this or contemporary that tends to send shivers
of horror down my spine. Those words often herald plates of
artistically-arranged nothing much, or a perfect traditional dish
ruined by the use of toenails of virgin seahorses or some other
inappropriate ingredient. These are all signs of a chef who is just
trying to be different rather than the best. The Press Club, however,
has food that is truly different and amusing but also holds to its
roots.
The Press Club is a sumptuous book. It reflects the style and quality
of the restaurant. No hint of the Greek-themed eateries of amphora and
Greek flags over a model of a blue-and-white painted fishing boat. The
book is thoughtfully designed and masterfully executed with the help of
photographer Dean Cambray. It’s a vision of sepia tones and text, with
marvellously contrasting photographs of the food.
Yes, the recipes are a little cheffy but not difficult. So much of the
success has to do with presentation. Cyprian Pork Pies are nothing like
the indestructible, pastry-rich British examples. These are more on the
lines of a Lebanese stuffed Kibbe (usually made with lamb). George
serves them with his Pine Nut Hoummos (recipe in this book) and a salad
of shaved fennel and onion. This gives a clean fresh taste as a
counterpoint to the pies.
Feta is not just reserved for Greek salad. George offers Feta
Soufflé. This dish isn’t difficult to make and would be an
interesting Greek-themed lunch, or a starter followed by some lamb or
pork. Scallop Loukoumades are George’s take on tempura (although his
grandmother is horrified). The batter is that usually reserved for a
traditional dessert.
Lime and Yoghurt Sorbet is simple to make and has few ingredients but
would be the most apt and delicious end to a Greek meal... or any other
meal. Light and refreshing, it’s a real palate cleanser. Milk sorbet is
another summer treat and only has 3 ingredients.
George Calombaris has done a fine job of demonstrating why he is an
internationally celebrated chef. We might not all be able to take a
trip Down Under but we can all have a little taste of The Press Club.
Cookbook review: The Press Club
Author: George Calombaris
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 9781741105810