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The Great Book of Rhubarb
This is another one of those foods that crosses the divide
between vegetable and fruit. We have that same complication with the
tomato, which is technically a fruit but which is more often than not
served as a savoury. Rhubarb is classified in the UK as a vegetable but
in the US it’s a fruit.
OK, so it’s a vegetable that is mostly used as a sweet, although chefs
are increasingly presenting it alongside meats and fish. It has only
been common as a food in Europe for a couple of hundred years. It was
originally imported from Russia as a medicinal root, with miraculous
qualities to cure many an ill and to render the plain beautiful.
We, these days, have our focus on the striking long stems which,
whatever the legal definition, are found amongst the fruit in
supermarkets and greengrocers. They have long been prized as the main
ingredient in crumbles, tarts and pies although the author Elaine Lemm
offers us some delicious alternatives in this charming little book.
If you are a traditionalist then you are bound to enjoy Rhubarb and
Custard Crumble Tart, a unique confection that looks as good as it
tastes – a combination of contrasting flavours and textures. I have, I
admit, only ever stewed rhubarb but this recipe has roasted rhubarb
which is simple to prepare and has the advantage of a more intense
flavour, a less mushy appearance than stewed, and a good pink colour.
The Great Book of Rhubarb is a must-have book for anyone growing
rhubarb. The recipes are inspiring and range from the family-friendly
to the cheffy and contemporary. I am rather taken with the prospect of
some Rhubarb Schnapps!
The Great Book of Rhubarb
Author: Elaine Lemm
Published by: Great Northern Books
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1905080-93-9
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