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The Flavour Thesaurus – Pairings, recipes and ideas for the creative cook
This is surely a prize-winner among this year’s
food-related books. One would think that it would be a dry and worthy
tome. The sort that many own and none read. It has the linen hard-cover
of dusty library volumes, but a peek inside and anyone with even a
slight interest in food will be hooked.
It’s just as the title suggests, a book about flavour pairings. The
talented author, Niki Segnit, considers 99 popular ingredients and
offers pairing suggestions. There are the usual suspects such as
chocolate and chilli but how’s about chocolate and bacon? Not so
strange when one considers the classic American breakfast of pancakes
with the sweet maple syrup and a serving of bacon; and there’s a trend
just now for dark chocolate with salty caramel.
The book is in the style of the celebrated Roget’s Thesaurus. The front
chapters offer the flavour matches and recipes. These are arranged by
theme and have rather poetic titles such as Bramble and Hedge, Floral
Fruity, Woodland and Green Grassy. The back chapter has an alphabetical
list of ingredients with suggestions for classic and less well-known
pairings.
The subject is contemporary and broad but it’s Niki Segnit who elevates
this book from a quirky food encyclopaedia to a darn good read. Her wit
shines through. Of Lemon and Coriander Leaf she writes: “This recipe
spreads faster than gossip. I know because I gave it to somebody, who
gave it to somebody else, who then made it for me and asked if I’d like
to have the recipe.” It’s the human touch that will have you leafing
through this at bedtime, as well as searching through its pages for
that ingredient to make your mushroom sauce a bit more interesting. Add
some anise. Who knew?
Niki embroiders anecdote with fact. She describes “The Monte Carlo, a
supper club dating from 1906. The place isn’t retro: you’re just late.
It has a tin ceiling and a copper bar and serves the kind of Martinis
to make you see the Prohibitionist’s point.” Yes, this is a masterwork
fit for any culinary alchemist but it will find a wider audience in
ordinary food lovers who will taste their own dishes in a different
way. It’s a book with wide appeal: to the food academic, and to the
rest of us who just enjoy flavour. That is, after all, the reason why
you are reading this review, and the reason you will buy the book.
Intriguing isn’t it?
The Flavour Thesaurus – Pairings, recipes and ideas for the creative
cook
Author: Niki Segnit
Published by: Bloomsbury
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-7475-9977-7
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