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The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches
This book is fun.
Sandwiches are not by nature a serious food group. We make them for
picnics and parties. The bread keeps our fingers free from exotic
fillings or last night’s left-overs, and quite honestly everyone loves
sandwiches. What would a traditional posh afternoon tea be without its
spread of crustless cucumber sandwiches?
This form of fast food isn’t a new culinary whim. It was the Earl of
Sandwich who in 1762 first made a meal of two slices of bread and a
filling. It wasn’t that he was a budding Heston Blumenthal of the 18th
century. This was a practical response to the problem of wanting to eat
but needing to remain at the card table.
This truly is an encyclopedia of sandwiches. It’s an alphabetical list
and each recipe or construction has its own picture. There are sarnies
made from brioche, bagels, brown bread, baguettes, biscuits and buns as
well as the humble white sliced. Your favourite bread can be
transformed into a real repast rather than a swift snack.
Sandwiches are a universal favourite. Vietnam has its celebrated Fusion
Roll. Banh Mi is a split baguette which gives a nod to the French
presence in the country. They left some striking colonial architecture,
and this paté-filled sandwich. Carrots, coriander and daikon are
seasoned with fish sauce, rice vinegar and soy sauce to represent the
Asian element.
A uniquely American sandwich is the PB and J. Expats grow misty-eyed at
the memory of this confection, whilst the majority of the rest of the
world views it with horror or even disbelief. This is a Peanut Butter
and Jelly sandwich and, it seems, a lunchbox staple, that was invented
back in 1901. It might sound an outlandish combination but I consider
that anything that endures must have some merit. I am sure that the
British chip butty will raise a few Californian eyebrows and there
might be enquiries as to the whereabouts of the salad.
I tease our American cousins about their PB and J sandwiches but my
sandwich of choice is indeed American. It’s the Pulled-Pork Sandwich
and it’s moreish. If you are a lover of BBQ then this is for you. The
meat is oven-cooked so this will be the meal of choice for those long
winter days when one dreams of alfresco entertainment but the rain
won’t let up.
The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches is a volume that will make any real food
lover smile with unadulterated pleasure. This is freestyle “cooking”.
It’s a book of ideas and we will all have our traditional favourites,
but those fillings that push the envelope will be the ones to try.
Enticing and entertaining.
Cookbook review: The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches
Author: Susan Russo
Published by: Quirk
Price: $18.95, £11.99
ISBN 978-1-59474-438-9
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