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The Gastropub Classics Cookbook

You must have been hiding under a rock if you have not heard of Gastropubs. It’s still a buzzy trend in the restaurant world although less so now than a year or so ago. Gastropubs have received a mixed press and the term has been somewhat highjacked by those who want to run high profit, low overhead restaurants.

The author, Trish Hilferty, has a wealth of Gastropub experience. She worked for a while at the forerunner of all Gastropubs, The Eagle in Farringdon, London. Trish was also head chef of The Fox Dining Room in Shoreditch and scooped the Tio Pepe London Gastropub of the Year award for 2005.

There are still good Gastropubs around but not all Gastropubs are worthy of the name. You are looking for a pub with a cosy, old-fashioned atmosphere with a bar that still welcomes locals who just want “a pint of the usual”. The food should be rustic and give the impression of home cooking. That’s not necessarily a British home, but all the dishes should be comforting. Beware of exotic menus and lengthy wine lists.

The Gastropub Classics Cookbook offers 150 or so recipes that will transport you to less complicated times of black-and-white TV and the aroma of your gran’s stew (OK, call it casserole if it makes you feel middle class). We are not reminiscing about bland, overcooked food, it’s about good ingredients simply prepared. These recipes aren’t complicated but the results are delicious.

Trish Hilferty has penned a book that is nothing short of a delight. I have spent hours reading these recipes and deciding which one to make first. There are pies aplenty and they look good but Braised Oxtail hits the spot on a cold day like today. It might not sound appetising to some, but the flavour is rich and beefy and the texture is silky and gelatinous. Serve with mash and perhaps a green vegetable... or just some crusty bread and a glass of dark beer.

There is lots on offer for fish lovers. The standard Cod and Parsley Sauce must have a mention as an English favourite, but Clams, White Beans and Chorizo is hard to beat. This is peasant-style fare but good enough to serve to guests at a smart dinner. The Gun Fish Pie (Gun is the name of the pub, not the fish) takes some beating. Monkfish and salmon are layered with mashed potatoes and Mornay sauce and topped with Gruyere cheese. Not cheap but a pie stretches expensive fish and is always impressive.

The Gastropub Classics Cookbook has a selection of puddings that steers you through traditional, retro and contemporary. Steamed Golden Syrup Pudding is teeth-achingly sweet but hard to pass up. Black Forest Gateau was ubiquitous in the 70s and could be found on every steakhouse menu, at every social gathering and in every freezer. It’s a marvellous dessert when made well and it deserves to have another airing. This creamy, chocolatey confection will remind you why it became so popular in the first place. Peach Jelly is an adult version of the regular kids’ party treat. This one is made with Cava and fresh fruit. A light and attractive end to a summer lunch.

This book presents some of the best traditional home cooking recipes around. They are the finest of Gastropub classics but also a showcase for good food, simply made. The selection of dishes is marvellous and tailored to those who appreciate fresh ingredients, well cooked. Great value for money.

The Gastropub Classics Cookbook
Author: Trish Hilferty
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 13:9781904573807