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Rick Bayless – from Oaxaca to the
Windy City
Award-winning chef-restaurateur, cookbook author, and
television
personality Rick Bayless has done more than any other culinary figure
to introduce Americans to authentic Mexican cooking and to change the
image of Mexican food in America.
I was first introduced to the work of Rick Bayless when we were living
in the USA. He is an exceptional broadcaster with the same passion and
conviction as, say, David Attenborough – only different subject matter!
He probably has the same popularity profile as Rick Stein in the UK.
Mexico – One Plate at a Time was the TV series that had me enthralled.
Rick presented programmes that were a combination of travel guide and
cooking lesson. He has also presented programmes with his daughter
Lanie who is now 17 years old. She is studying Musical Theatre but she
has worked at the restaurant in the pastry department.
Rick is the fourth generation of an Oklahoma family of restaurateurs
and grocers. His mum and dad had a BBQ restaurant. It was in Oklahoma
that he ate “Tex Mex” food which he loved. At that time this is what
they, and most everyone else, thought Mexican food was. At 14 he
planned a trip to Mexico City with his family, and this excited his
interest still further.
From 1980 to 1986, Rick lived in Mexico with his wife, Deann. “It
started with that trip”, he said. “It was like going home. Who can
explain love?” They logged 35,000 miles travelling through Mexico
researching their first cookbook: Regional Cooking From The Heart of
Mexico (William Morrow, 1987).
In 1987, Rick opened the now famous Frontera Grill in Chicago, which
specialises in contemporary regional Mexican cooking. Rick opened the
elegant Topolobampo in 1989. Adjacent to Frontera Grill, Topolobampo is
one of America's few fine-dining Mexican restaurants. They have both
received glowing reviews from such publications as Gourmet, Food &
Wine, Bon Appétit, Zagat's, The Wine Spectator, USA Today, and
The Chicago Tribune. Topolobampo has been nominated twice by the James
Beard Foundation as one of the most outstanding restaurants in the USA.
He is the founder of the Frontera Farmer Foundation. Established in
2003, it’s an organisation that supports small local farmers. It is a
non-profit organisation dedicated to the promotion of small,
sustainable farms serving the Chicago area by providing them with
capital development grants.
Rick points out that he didn't get into organic food because of some
"new-agey, life changing, near-death experience or anything like that.
I'm an entrepreneur first. I chose organic produce because it tastes
better and I'm in business to make a business work," Rick admitted.
His use of local produce is good business sense. “It's just good
practice to take care of the supplier of the food you need to make your
business better”. His restaurant spends half a million dollars on local
fresh produce each year.
"I admit the locale is primary to us at our restaurant. Then comes
organic. And now we are supporting local farmers in making the
transition from conventional to organic. It just tastes better. Great
food, like all art, enhances and reflects a community’s vitality,
growth and solidarity. Yet history bears witness that great cuisines
spring only from healthy local agriculture."
Frontera Foods, Rick’s food products line, went on sale at Frontera
Fresco, a food kiosk in the historic Marshall Fields building (now
Macy’s Chicago) in 2005. There are salsas, chips, and grilling rubs all
inspired by decades of experience of the best Mexican cooking.
I asked Rick if he had plans for any other food outlets. “We are
working on opening a quick-serve place on the corner next to
Topolobampo...it will be open next year. Ground chocolate and fresh
churros, tortas, etc.” Sounds like my cup of tea!
I was going to tell you about the awards but Rick has so many! He
started his collection in 1988 with the Food & Wine Magazine which
selected Rick as "Best New Chef of the Year," and in 1991 he won a
James Beard Award for "Best American Chef: Midwest." And that was just
the start!
Rick is a restaurant consultant, teaches authentic Mexican cooking
throughout the United States (he is a visiting staff member at the
Culinary Institute of America), and leads cooking and cultural tours to
Mexico.
I asked if he had another book on the horizon. “There’s a new book out
next year...all about entertaining...fiestas!”
I am sorry that most Europeans will not have had the chance to see Rick
in action ....so buy his books!
Books by Rick Bayless....so far!
Mexican Everyday
Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen
Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico
Rick & Lanie's Excellent Kitchen Adventures: Chef-Dad, Teenage
Daughter, Recipes, and Stories
Authentic Mexican
Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico
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