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Persia in Peckham

Just the title was enough to get me turning the pages. Has it got something to do with Continental Drift? No, this is simply one of the best reads around, and it’s not even been penned by a famous food celeb, columnist or chef.

Sally Butcher has a husband who is Iranian and they own Persepolis in Peckham, South London (a shop that sells all manner of exotica, and which I fully intend to visit). When you find a husband you get the in-laws as well, and Sally is lucky that hers are truly a bonus. This book draws upon cultural heritage and culinary savvy to create a smile-inducing mix of recipes and stories.

This is a chunky volume illustrated with sketches and Arabic script. The recipes are for the most part simple, and different from the typical Middle Eastern ones that I am familiar with. Sally provides each one with some background information and often a funny comment. This is heart-warming stuff even if you can’t cook a whisk’s worth.

Persia in Peckham is full of recipes that I intend to steal! Not all of those included in this book are Iranian because Sally has thoughtfully added some dishes from her customers who hail from Somalia, Afghanistan, Greece and the West Indies. Perhaps that’s what London is all about.

I love the chapter on Pickles and Preserves, which offers such delights as Quince Jam with Cardamom, and Persepolis Special Torshi, which is a sour pickle. The Casseroles section has a host of delicious dishes but one of my favourites is Chicken and Aubergine Boats, full of warming spices and tangy pickle.

The recipe that I will not only steal but pass off as my own is Persimmons Filled with Spiced Cheese. This would be an exotic end to Iranian or Indian meals, being sweet with a hint of spice and lemon. The cheese in question isn’t a lump of cheddar or Danish Blue but creamy fromage frais. You’ll need to buy the book for the full recipe and you won’t have wasted your money.

I very much hope that Persia in Peckham is nominated for some award or other. It has already been selected as Cookbook of the Year 2007 by the Sunday Times. Sally deserves some recognition as a funny and uplifting writer. Well done, that girl!

Persia in Peckham
Author: Sally Butcher
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1903018514

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