Mostly Food Journal has articles on and reviews of Cookbooks, Restaurants, Chefs, Ingredients, Drinks, New Products, and the People behind them.
Use the buttons above to take a stroll through them all!

North African Cookery

The author Arto der Haroutunian was lost to us cookbook lovers far too soon. He died in 1987 at the age of 47. His books have always been sought after by a discerning and loyal following of those who prize authenticity and style.

There are surprisingly few books on North African cookery. Lebanese cookbooks are becoming more popular as Lebanese restaurants are more part of the contemporary culinary scene, but what of those countries that are truly North African? Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya are collectively known as The Meghrib (or Maghreb) which means “the land of sunset” in Arabic.

The food of these countries is subtle but easy to prepare. It’s widely available in France where so many immigrants from the southern side of the Mediterranean have settled. We in Britain have a cuisine which reflects our colonial heritage, so Indian food is popular. There are far fewer North African restaurants, although the ingredients for making those dishes have long been available. If you have the spices for Indian food then you will already have most of what you’ll need.

There are 300 or so recipes here and they are some of the most popular and classic of North African fare. They have relatively few ingredients and no complex cooking techniques. The success of the dishes relies on freshness of produce and the combination of a few well-chosen spices, and those spices are more of the aromatic sort rather than the melt-your-teeth variety. Think of warming Christmas spices with some fire supplied by harissa (a chili paste which is often used as a condiment as well as being added to cooking).

Breiks are Tunisian and a marvellously sophisticated little pie. It’s made from a very light pastry that can be found in specialist shops. It’s much thinner than philo pastry although you could use that if the breik sheets are unavailable. Arto has a number of versions in his book including the popular Breik bil Toune (breik with egg and tuna) but also meat and vegetable alternatives.

Lamb is the meat of choice in all North African countries and it’s no surprise to find a good selection of recipes here. If you want to try your hand at cooking a whole lamb then this book will serve you well. There are several methods of cooking offered as well as a marinade. A whole lamb is the ubiquitous centre-piece of any North African celebration and it’s striking, delicious and memorable.

Vegetarians are well served here. There are salads and vegetable dishes aplenty. Chalda Loubia Khadra (green beans with almonds) is a surprisingly western-seeming salad as it has a mayonnaise dressing. Chalda Bartogal wa Jazar (orange and carrot salad) is Moroccan and often found on restaurant menus as well as in homes.

North African Cookery is a classic of this so-far underestimated cuisine. The author, Arto der Haroutunian, shows us once again why he has never been surpassed as the authority on food of this region. This will be a worthwhile addition to any serious cookbook collection but I counsel using it rather than just reading it. You’ll add many recipes from this volume to your repertoire. Great value for money.

Cookbook review: North African Cookery
Author: Arto der Haroutunian
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-34-8