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Mestizo Sunday Brunch with UNESCO support

Mexico already has many of its monuments on UNESCO's list of protected sites. Now it has gained international recognition for the country's unique cuisine. London has a restaurant which is recognised by the Mexican Embassy as providing authentic dishes. Mestizo near Euston Station will provide a vibrant introduction to Mexico’s culinary heritage.

UNESCO officials have added Mexico's food to the organisation's list of ‘intangible cultural patrimony’. That simply means that the cuisine of Mexico is now recognised as worth protecting and promoting. The trinity of corn, beans and chillis forms the foundation of Mexico's food, with each region of the country adding its own ingredients and spices to create a rich tapestry.

"We face an enormous threat from junk food and other foreign foods that are taking over our culture, which is why UNESCO could help greatly by supporting our traditional cuisine," said Mr. Rojas, the chef at Don Chon, a Mexico City restaurant specialising in pre-Hispanic dishes.

Traditional Mexican cuisine dates back 3,000 years to the Mayans, who had a healthy and delicious diet, but the “Mexican cuisine” that most of us have eaten is largely an adulteration of the authentic original. These dishes often owe their heritage to restaurants north of the border. Taste real Mexican food and you’ll notice a difference. The Sunday brunch at Mestizo is a showcase, and will allow those new to real Mexican food to graze and savour.

Mestizo offers a warm welcome at any time. I have become a frequent visitor and have never been disappointed. I eat out several times each week and still this restaurant is amongst my top three in London. It has a casual ambiance, and many regulars from the Mexican community, who must know a great deal more about this exciting cuisine than I do.

The brunch starts at noon and is available till 4pm. Go early as it’s a popular spot. Settle yourself at a table and check out what your neighbours are eating. There is a good chance that they will be Mexicans or regulars, so ask them what they have chosen. Don’t bother asking what’s good – it’s all good. Pour a glass of Agua de Horchata (rice, cinnamon, milk) or Agua de Jamaica made from hibiscus, and head for the food.

Perhaps start with Huevos Rancheros. This is a typical Mexican breakfast dish of fried eggs on fried tortilla with red or green salsa, rice and beans. A substantial plate, so come with an appetite or you will miss out on so many other delicious possibilities, such as Menudo soup, considered as a cure-all. Pozole is a traditional corn soup garnished with lettuce, radish, onion, avocado, chopped chilli and lime. Birria is lamb stew with tomato, onion and chilli ancho.

I wandered along the buffet and selected a little of this and a spoonful of that. This form of dining is ideal for groups as each guest can make their own selection and return as often as they like. There are salsas to spice the aromatic dishes and there are salads to cool the chilli-rich ones. Plenty here for vegetarians and even fish lovers as well as those who crave meat. The kids can amuse themselves by designing their own Taco or Quesadilla and you could celebrate Sunday with a shot or two of tequila.

The Tamales at Mestizo are comfort foods. The steamed corn husks are filled with masa and a variety of fillings. Try these with a drizzle of green salsa. Simple but memorable. The chafing dish to the right contained Pescado Relleno de Champinones, a delicate white fish wrapped in corn husk and steamed in its own juices with mushrooms. This was one of the best fish dishes of any ethnic persuasion I have eaten in ages.

The flavours here are surprisingly subtle. Pollo en Salsa Romero is a creamy chicken dish and ideal served with rice. Mild and with the chicken cooked to succulent perfection. This is another must-try.

I spent a long and contented lunch and enjoyed a sampling of almost all the savoury dishes on offer. I could be condemned to eat the same on my next visit, for next visit there will surely be, and I would be looking forward to the experience anew. But I needed a taste of something sweet and so I cut a slice of Tres Leches cake from the dessert display. This was a moreish preparation of light sponge soaked in a sauce made from, as the name suggests, three milks. If you are not sure of your capacity then I would counsel eating dessert first. Yes, its rich but it’s worth the calories.

Mestizo for Dinner

I had my first little peek at Mestizo last year. Just a cocktail and some nibbles but it was enough to give an indication that this was a spot to linger over and enjoy. An evening meal was in order so off I went with guest in tow to see if that first impression was accurate, or merely an illusion encouraged by one too many of Mexico’s famous beverage.

You might say you like “Mexican” food. You might have had “Mexican” food on trips to the US, and Taco Bell might be your favourite fast food but, dear reader, your experience is a faint shadow of the authentic Mexican extravaganza awaiting you at Mestizo.

Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar has a convenient location just around the corner from Euston Square Underground station, and a few minutes’ walk from Euston main-line station. Its atmosphere is of dark wood charm but the impressive bar hints at fun times to be had. This establishment has a collection of Tequilas (over 130 at last count) enough to make any London-based Mexican quite home-sick. The restaurant has a cult following amongst the local Brits and, evidently, expat Mexicans. That has got to be an indication of this restaurant’s authenticity. It already has the vote of those in the know.

Mestizo offers food that is hard or impossible to find outside Mexico. I wonder why these dishes haven’t had the exposure of other ethnic cuisines. It must be that Europe has only a slight cultural exchange with those countries that rest south of Texas and California. Mexican food has migrated to its neighbour to the North, but has often been adulterated in transit. Tex-Mex food might be vibrant and zesty but it isn’t a patch on food to be found south of the border.

We started our evening with cocktails. Mestizo Spice got our attention. This was an amazing concoction of Casco Viejo chilli-infused reposado tequila, cherry brandy, crushed strawberries, diced red chilli and lime. It’s a tall delicate pink drink with a kick. I am not a cocktail habitué but this particular recipe evoked all that’s impressive about Mestizo – good taste and style.

Our starter was a Mixed Antojitos Platter which was an assortment of flauta (crispy fried rolled tortillas filled with chicken and topped with lettuce, sour cream and green tomatillo salsa), quesadilla (corn pastries filled with cheese, served with sour cream and salsa roja), jalada (jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese, served with sour cream) - don’t miss these -, and tamales (steamed corn husks filled with masa and pollo con mole) – an authentic taste of Mexican comfort food.

The Mestizo staff are charming and helpful. Several of them are Mexican and all of them can steer you through what will likely be an unfamiliar menu. Mole Poblano was my co-reviewer’s choice for main course. This is a classic dish of boneless chicken breast served with a traditional mole sauce made of dried chillies, herbs, spices, almonds and chocolate, served with beans and rice and some flour tortillas. Mestizo make all sauces, beans, condiments and salsas in-house. The tortillas, however, are produced by a specialist bakery, although Mestizo do make their own moreish tortilla chips. The chocolate sauce was savoury and well flavoured with a silky texture. An introduction to the subtleties of Mexican cuisine.

Mole Huasteco (a traditional dish from the state of Hidalgo, Mexico) was new to me. It’s a boneless chicken breast served with a huasteco sauce, made from over 32 ingredients, including dried chillies, tomatoes, onion, almonds, garlic, sesame and pumpkin seeds. This is a rich and aromatic dish with an almost liquorice or aniseed finish. This must surely be a signature dish. If you only expect to make one visit to Mestizo then order this.