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Good Things – Jane Grigson

Grub Street is, in my opinion, one of the finest food publishers around. They carry titles that are classic, iconic and irresistible to the serious cookbook collector. Good Things by Jane Grigson is another volume that has stood the test of time.

Jane Grigson (yes, she was Sophie’s mum) is recognised as being one of Britain’s finest food writers. OK, she is not perhaps given the recognition of Elizabeth David but she is still highly regarded by those in the know and those who have a love of sensible recipes, well written and enduring.

First published in 1971, Good Things remains pertinent into the 21st century. Jane was evidently a woman before her time. She wrote in the original introduction, “... I feel the delight lies in the seasons and what they bring us... the strawberries that come in May and June straight from the fields, the asparagus of a special occasion... The encouragement of fine food is not greed or gourmandise; it can be seen as an aspect of the anti-pollution movement in that it indicates concern for the quality of environment...” Wasn’t that a prophetic statement?

Jane states that “This is not a book about cookery, but a book about enjoying food.” The chapter headings reflect the author’s passion for the good things in life but also her interest in dishes that would, at that time, have seemed edgy and too foreign. I was surprised to see Snails. This was after all 1971. Jane lived for many years in France and so was no stranger to these little delicacies, although I am sure that the purchasers of the first edition of Good Things would probably have moved swiftly over that section. Ceps and Girolles are mentioned in the Edible Woodland Mushrooms chapter and there are a good half-dozen recipes for chicory. Jane presents a spectrum of recipes that range from the rustic to the posh, but none being too elaborate for the home cook.

It’s not about French cooking. It’s about Good Things and many of them are British. Sweet Lamb Pie from North-West England, Fidget Pie (apples, onion and bacon), Piddy Oggies (a sort of pasty) and real Raised Pork Pie which is hard to beat when it’s made well. Cornish Leek Pie is a new one for me. A creamy single-crust pie which couldn’t be easier to make, and it’s cheap. Good Things don’t have to cost the earth.

Good Things by Jane Grigson isn’t a full-colour, glossy, big coffee-table book. This is a readable, engaging cookbook that is relevant to our hectic and financially strapped lives. A definite “must have”. 

Good Things
Author: Jane Grigson
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £14.99
ISBN 1-904943-87-X