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Freggo

Well, what is a Freggo? It was once a Freddo but changed its name when it opened a branch in London. Its origins are Argentinian and it fair oozes a certain je ne sais quoi ...or whatever that is in Spanish.

It’s an ice cream parlour, a sandwich bar, a café, a tea shop and a chic little refuge from the overwhelming buzz of London’s frantic streets. It nestles next door to its parent, Gaucho, on a pedestrianised thoroughfare just off Regent Street, offering outside seating whenever we have an approximation of a summer.

Freggo is a boutique café of striking colour and design. There is a high-backed banquette in one corner and stools and coffee tables in another. It’s PURPLE and it’s in capitals for good reason: this is corporate imaging at its slickest. It works. The Argentinian shops, those Freddos, are said to be in pale blue but London’s Freggo has pushed the envelope and discovered a style which is appropriate both for ladies wot lunch and for nightclub revellers who are seeking some sweet calories at 2am.

One might not necessarily connect Argentina with ice cream. We Europeans bow to the Italian idol of gelato or even that of a poor-quality soft ice cream sold from the back of a truck. But, when one thinks about it, one has every reason to associate Argentina with dairy products. They are celebrated for their beef (Gaucho next door is a veritable shrine to all things bovine) and what do cows make? A lot of milk. Combine that with Italian immigrants and you have a formula for ice cream heaven.

The quality of ice cream here is unbeatable. The flavours offer some very traditional Argentinian favourites which you’ll not find anywhere else on this side of a considerable stretch of ocean. There is nothing outlandish here. No mud-slide something or other. No uncooked dough (I have never understood the appeal of that). There is, however, a selection of confections that will reduce any homesick South American to tears. Try a cone or tub of Dolce de Leche which is rich enough to warrant sharing. True, it might warrant it, but you’ll be reluctant to share. This must surely be the signature ice cream.

It’s possible to offer several signature dishes in restaurants so perhaps Freggo should take the liberty of listing Malbec and Berries as a joint favourite. This is a vivid deep red sorbet-like ice with fruity but adult flavour. This could be a dessert at the end of the poshest of dinner parties and your guests would not be disappointed. It’s unique to Freggo and can be delivered in a radius of a few miles from the store.

Apart from their tempting ice cream, Freggo have a cabinet stuffed full of traditional Argentinian cakes and these are definitely worth crossing a street or two for. There is much here that is different but all those cakes and cookies that I sampled were delightful. They are made for Freggo by a South American baker in London and give a taste of authentic sweet treats.

Tarte de Marmalada is a crumbly pastry base topped with a quince jam which was tangy and moreish. Hot pancakes with ice cream and Dolce de Leche will have you hooked. The Dolce de Leche is used in many desserts and it’s addictive. It has an almost caramel cream flavour and a gooey consistency. You couldn’t eat a lot of this rich sauce, although you might like to try.