500 Breakfasts and Brunches
It’s often said that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Well, that’s probably true with regard to nutrition and a balanced diet but it’s also the most eagerly-awaited meal of the day – at least by me.
Even those who insist they have no interest in that first meal will be coaxed into at least semi-conciousness by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee or toasting toast, and not many can remain under the duvet when a bacon sandwich beckons from below.
I have a broad taste in breakfast foods. Idli hot from the steamer and a bowl of spicy sambar is one of my favourites. I have enjoyed American biscuits (like scones) and gravy (creamy sauce made with sausage), and Eggs Benedict is always high on my list. I have been known to eat last night’s takeaway, kippers and Mexican refried beans and chilli before dawn, but I have never gone out of my way for a cornflake.
500 Breakfasts and Brunches offers just what it says: 500 temptations from Europe and America. Each recipe has its associated picture and several versions. There are healthy crunchy bars and sustaining smoothies for all those who want a noble start to the day. Those bars could easily be packed for a breakfast on the run ...or jog.
Britain and the US have a love of cooked breakfast foods. Any trip to a real New York diner will have you scanning the morning menu and finding stacks of pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, eggs over-easy, and coffee that might not always be the best you would have tasted. This book gives recipes for some favourites from both sides of the Pond. The British fry-up is included and one of the variants has fried bread, but cooked in vegetable oil. This is a modern attempt at presenting a light option but if one wants the authentic fried bread then one needs lard. Make this meal an annual event but enjoy it when you have it.
Apple and Pecan French Toast is another calorific start to the day. Well, at least it contains some fruit so it’s not an entirely guilty pleasure. Classic Blueberry Pancakes also has its fruit, and the syrup is optional: one could serve thick Greek yoghurt instead with perhaps more fresh berries on the side.
Brunch offers a casual entertaining experience for friends and family, and the chance to present a variety of dishes that would be just too much trouble to prepare when there’s only a couple. Banana Cranberry Loaf is something you can bake the day before. Present slices hot from the toaster. An exotic alternative would be Tropical Pineapple and Coconut Loaf; that would be ideal served with a fresh fruit salad.
My pick of the book is Crabmeat Strata – another brunch special but a savoury one. It has a light and fluffy texture rather like a cross between a bread-and-butter pudding and a souffle; but it’s that seafood that elevates this dish to posh brunch fare. It’s true that it’s not cheap but it’s the one to choose for a celebration weekend. Smoked salmon could be used instead and that would be quite economic, as one could use salmon scraps rather than the more costly slices.
500 Breakfasts and Brunches is another in that celebrated series from Apple Press. These books are good value for money and practical – lots of information in a compact format, and these books will spend more time in the kitchen than on your bookshelves. Well worth setting the alarm a little early.
Cookbook review: 500 Breakfasts and Brunches
Author: Carol Beckerman
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £9.00
ISBN: 978-1-84543-381-9
Cookbook Cafe – Sunday Brunch
It might not be any longer the Biblical day of rest but it still tends to be the day we ear-mark for special events, loved ones and unwinding. We might treat ourselves to a bit of a lay-in, enjoy a delicious meal, have a read of the Sunday papers, catch up with family and friends, perhaps a walk in the park... relax with...Errrr, so what was that about lovely food? If we are all soaking up the culture of the weekend periodicals and strolling around then who is doin’ the cookin’? I have, dear reader, the solution to the dilemma. You’ll get your walk in the park (Hyde Park) and you’ll even find some reading matter in the guise of a cookbook or two. Visit the Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental Park Lane for Sunday Brunch.
I can hear it now: a chorus of “Has our favourite reviewer won the lotto?” “Does she think we are made of money?” I have taken leave of neither my senses nor much hard-earned cash. You will be pleased to learn that the aforementioned brunch is amazing value for money (under £50 per head) at an unbeatable location.
The Cookbook Cafe is a contemporary restaurant with huge windows onto one of the best corners of one of the world’s most vibrant and exciting cities. It’s bright and welcoming although the split-level dining area helps to create a cosy ambiance with tables arranged to be convenient and appealing to both couples and groups.
Hotel brunches so often disappoint. Perspex cylinders containing long-lingering and soggy cereals flanking half-hearted congealing attempts at a full English fry-up represent the breakfast section, whilst a slowly-drying quiche and curly cold cuts might launch the lunch element. The Cookbook Cafe brunch, however, draws a line in the sand and dares pretenders to compete.
The staff were welcoming and attentive. The champagne and Bellinis were in continual supply along with Bloody Marys and fruit juices. There was plenty of advice about the dishes on offer and the food was, quite simply, marvellous. There were salads and vegetable dishes enough to warm the heart of any committed vegetarian, fish aplenty and meats to satisfy the most carnivorous of visitors. The rustic display of starters offered some simple and standard fare, and the buffet was no worse for that, but we were tempted by other less-common platters.
Seared tuna is a pricey item on regular restaurant menus but here it was laying in ranks. It was perfectly cooked and looking like a tray of semi-precious stones. The nuggets of salmon with a hoisin glaze were a vision of glistening mahogany; a sea of smoked salmon was quickly replenished when there was even the slightest risk of the tide going out.
The cheese board was small but enticing. Cashel Blue and a Cornish brie tempted me. They were presented in perfect condition. The smoked turkey actually tasted as if it had really been on nodding terms with smouldering wood, and the pumpkin was sweet and tender enough to have been invited to garnish the dessert display.
After devouring a plate (well, three) of starters, it was on to the cooked selection. Brunch to me means New York, and New York is Eggs Benedict. This was made while I waited and was everything this simple dish should be: creamy, tangy and moreish. My guest chose a traditional roast with all the trimmings. The lamb (a joint of beef was also available) was detached from the bone with tongs! He is a Yorkshire lad who proclaimed the accompanying Yorkshire puddings as being “reet champion” (translation: As good as you’ll find in Barnsley.) The chafing dishes also offered a mixed seafood casserole aromatic with dill, seasonal vegetables, boiled potatoes, exotic aubergines, and duck in cherry sauce which is a must-try.
I have mentioned desserts in passing but I wasn’t and you won’t be, passing, that is. I am not typically a lover of sweet things but the array of tarts, cakes and brulees was too tempting. My companion opted for an individual lemon meringue pie and a raspberry brulee which he described as smooth and delicately crusted. I chose the white chocolate torte which was rich and creamy and a cut above other versions of the same confection I have recently encountered. All the desserts here are made by the Cookbook Cafe chefs.
Cookbook Cafe Sunday Brunch is the best brunch I have had in many a long year. No exclamations of “How much???” when the bill arrives. You’ll know exactly how much before you lift a fork. Great value for money. This is the spot to celebrate your son’s exam results, your auntie's return from Tierra del Fuego or just Sunday.
Opening times:12.30pm till 4pm on Sundays
Restaurant review: Cookbook Cafe at the InterContinental
1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane
London
W1J 7QY
tel.: 020 7318 8563
Gale Gand’s Brunch
Brunch is a long-established American tradition. It’s easy to understand why it has become so popular. It is
an activity that combines social interaction and delicious food... or a
way of entertaining friends and family without the fuss and arduous
preparation of a full-scale dinner party. Sunday morning (unless you are a priest or a vicar) is often a time devoted to walking the dog, washing the car or cutting the lawn. Those pleasurable (yeah, right) tasks could be postponed till the afternoon, allowing pleasant morning hours of convivial companionship shared with loved ones... and fabulous food.
Brunch food should be easily prepared, a delight for the eye and present the kinds of dishes that can be consumed in an unhurried fashion. Gale Gand's Brunch offers recipes that tick all the boxes. Not only are all those boxes ticked but it’s done with style and imagination. Brunch isn’t an excuse for an unreasonably early Sunday lunch or a late breakfast. Somehow the English “Full Monty” (that fried breakfast of legendary proportions) doesn’t have the class of Gale’s marvellous spreads.
Gale Gand will be a familiar name to all US Food Network viewers. She was the presenter of Sweet Dreams, the network’s first daily show devoted to baking. Gale is an award winning pastry chef and co-owner of the celebrated Tru restaurant in Chicago so it’s no surprise that the dishes here are delectable. There are around 100 of them so you’ll be hosting many a brunch before you need to cover the same territory again.
This book leads you through basic brunch favourites like Omelettes but continues through a whole plethora of toasts, baked goods, savoury dishes to salads and soups. There is enough variety here to cater for the dietary whims of all the family ...even your nephew who will only eat red food. Start him off with a Bloody Mary and feed him Gazpacho. (It's probably only a phase he’s going through... although he is 46.)
Popovers will be something new for many of my British readers. Think of the lightest imaginable Yorkshire Pudding and add some flavour. Gale has Mini Popovers that are airy with a delicate hint of herbs and irresistible with Lemon Butter. If you have a Yorkshire pudding tin or muffin tin then you’ll be able to make these.
Baked Camembert has become a classic but Gale suggests a Cranberry-Black Pepper Compote to serve alongside. That would add some zing to a dish that is otherwise quite heavy. Caramelized Onion Tarts are also inspired by the French and this is a fine example using zucchini (courgette) and feta cheese. This recipe uses ready-bought puff pastry, as does Peanut Butter and Jelly Turnovers which are bound to be winners with the kids!
My favourite recipe from Gale Gand’s Brunch is that for Torta Rustica. This is the most amazing layered pie of vegetables and ham (I am sure you could make a vegetarian version.) This dish will impress your guests and have them begging you for the recipe. There is more than a full page of instructions but don’t be put off. It’s a simple recipe but one of those that has several elements. A novice cook would gain confidence and compliments.
Gale Gand’s Brunch will have us all inviting friends over for an amazing feast. The cook will be able to enjoy the day as much as his/her guests. I wouldn’t, however, reserve these brunch delights for Sundays at 11am. You’ll find much here that will be equally well received at lunches, picnics and dinners. Brilliant.
Gale Gand’s Brunch
Author: Gale Gand
Published by: Clarkson Potter
Price: $27.50 US
ISBN 978-0-307-40698-9
Mestizo Sunday Brunch with UNESCO support
Mexico already has many of its monuments on UNESCO's list of protected sites. Now it has gained international recognition for the country's unique cuisine. London has a restaurant which is recognised by the Mexican Embassy as providing authentic dishes. Mestizo near Euston Station will provide a vibrant
introduction
to Mexico’s culinary heritage.UNESCO officials have added Mexico's food to the organisation's list of ‘intangible cultural patrimony’. That simply means that the cuisine of Mexico is now recognised as worth protecting and promoting. The trinity of corn, beans and chillis forms the foundation of Mexico's food, with each region of the country adding its own ingredients and spices to create a rich tapestry.
"We face an enormous threat from junk food and other foreign foods that are taking over our culture, which is why UNESCO could help greatly by supporting our traditional cuisine," said Mr. Rojas, the chef at Don Chon, a Mexico City restaurant specialising in pre-Hispanic dishes.
Traditional Mexican cuisine dates back 3,000 years to the Mayans, who had a healthy and delicious diet, but the “Mexican cuisine” that most of us have eaten is largely an adulteration of the authentic original. These dishes often owe their heritage to restaurants north of the border. Taste real Mexican food and you’ll notice a difference. The Sunday brunch at Mestizo is a showcase, and will allow those new to real Mexican food to graze and savour.
Mestizo offers a warm welcome at any time. I have become a frequent visitor and have never been disappointed. I eat out several times each week and still this restaurant is amongst my top three in London. It has a casual ambiance, and many regulars from the Mexican community, who must know a great deal more about this exciting cuisine than I do.
The brunch starts at noon and is available till 4pm. Go early as it’s a popular spot. Settle yourself at a table
and
check out what your neighbours are eating. There is a good chance that
they will be Mexicans or regulars, so ask them what they have chosen.
Don’t bother asking what’s good – it’s all good. Pour a glass of Agua
de Horchata (rice, cinnamon, milk) or Agua de Jamaica made from
hibiscus, and head for the food.Perhaps start with Huevos Rancheros. This is a typical Mexican breakfast dish of fried eggs on fried tortilla with red or green salsa, rice and beans. A substantial plate, so come with an appetite or you will miss out on so many other delicious possibilities, such as Menudo soup, considered as a cure-all. Pozole is a traditional corn soup garnished with lettuce, radish, onion, avocado, chopped chilli and lime. Birria is lamb stew with tomato, onion and chilli ancho.
I wandered along the buffet and selected a little of this and a spoonful of that. This form of dining is ideal for groups as each guest can make their own selection and return as often as they like. There are salsas to spice the aromatic dishes and there are salads to cool the chilli-rich ones. Plenty here for vegetarians and even fish lovers as well as those who crave meat. The kids can amuse themselves by designing their own Taco or Quesadilla and you could celebrate Sunday with a shot or two of tequila.
The Tamales at Mestizo are comfort foods. The steamed corn husks are filled with masa and a variety of fillings. Try these with a drizzle of green salsa. Simple but memorable. The chafing dish to the right contained Pescado Relleno de Champinones, a delicate white fish wrapped in corn husk and steamed in its own juices with mushrooms. This was one of the best fish dishes of any ethnic persuasion I have eaten in ages.
The flavours here are surprisingly subtle. Pollo en Salsa Romero is a creamy chicken dish and ideal served with rice. Mild and with the chicken cooked to succulent perfection. This is another must-try.
I spent a long and contented lunch and enjoyed a sampling of almost all the savoury dishes on offer. I could be condemned to eat the same on my next visit, for next visit there will surely be, and I would be looking forward to the experience anew. But I needed a taste of something sweet and so I cut a slice of Tres Leches cake from the dessert display. This was a moreish preparation of light sponge soaked in a sauce made from, as the name suggests, three milks. If you are not sure of your capacity then I would counsel eating dessert first. Yes, its rich but it’s worth the calories.
Mestizo Restaurant and Tequila Bar
103 Hampstead Road, London NW1 3EL
www.mestizomx.com
Phone 020 7387 4064
Email eat@mestizomx.com
Mestizo now has an online shop. Visit here
Sunday Brunch at Indigo restaurant – One Aldwych
One Aldwych has one of the best locations in London. It stands on a corner plot in the middle of the capital
in
Covent Garden, that neighbourhood being famed as the backdrop for My
Fair Lady. It’s a stone’s throw from the River Thames and all the
iconic sights of old London.The hotel is nestled between the City and the West End where The Aldwych meets the Strand, and opposite Waterloo Bridge. It’s just a short distance from more than a dozen celebrated theatres as well as the world-famous Royal Opera House. It is considered a noteworthy Edwardian building and is now protected by English Heritage. It’s an architectural extravaganza of Continental-inspired splendour, designed by Charles Mewes and Arthur Davis, the Anglo-French duo behind the Ritz hotels in London and Paris.
This stylish hotel is the lodging of choice for many a visitor from beyond these shores. It’s prized for being just around the corner from so many places of interest but it also caters for those who are not staying but just passing through. Guests who drop in for a meal and even for some entertainment in the small but well-appointed cinema next to Axis, One Aldwych’s other restaurant.
It was a bright Sunday afternoon and we were in the mood for brunch. Indigo at One Aldwych offers a striking restaurant, a calming ambiance and a thoughtful menu. It’s a small enough restaurant to feel intimate, and casual enough for you to feel comfortable meandering through the Sunday colour supplements.
Our fellow brunchers comprised a few who were evidently hotel guests lingering over the papers and breakfast, but also some regulars from across the Pond. The staff were bombarded with requests for dishes which were almost but not quite on the menu. A ham omelette sans ham – the guest would like that on the side. Some goat cheese - that wasn’t even on the menu but there was a promise that the restaurant would find some. These requests were fielded with courtesy, charm and a willingness to please. I was warming to Indigo and we hadn’t even ordered yet.
Indigo offers soup, salads, on-toast items, mains, desserts, and any two courses of the above with unlimited Prosecco for only £24. That sounded like outstanding value but the food has to be good. The Soup of the Day was watercress and it was the most vibrant and light of its kind that my guest and I had
ever
seen. It was delicately garnished with oil and crème
fraiche and served with a selection of breads. Some folks expect a roast on Sundays and Indigo offers that in an interesting fashion. A roast beef salad with watercress, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce. It’s a light alternative to the traditional Sunday lunch, but my fancy on this occasion was Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Onions on Toast. This simple dish was a small culinary triumph of both texture and taste. The fungi were cooked to perfection and still held their original contours. The large field mushrooms added substance and the onions were sweetly moreish. A very good start.
Other items on the Toast menu included Welsh Rarebit and Scotch Woodcock. A word or two by way of explanation: Welsh Rarebit is not a bunny from Wales but is a dish of seasoned melted cheese on toast, sometimes containing a dash of ale and/or Worcester Sauce. Scotch Woodcock isn’t a highland game-bird but a savoury dish consisting of scrambled eggs served on toast that has been spread with something tangy like anchovy paste or Gentleman's Relish. Yes, a British menu can confound the visitor.
Kedgeree has been a breakfast favourite since Queen Victoria and the days of the old Raj. An Anglo-Indian
preparation
of
seasoned
rice,
hard-boiled
eggs
and
smoked
haddock.
It’s
often
dry
and
uninteresting
but
the
version
at
Indigo
has
been
tweaked
into
a
moist
and
flavourful
dish
which,
although
still
holding
to
its roots,
was somewhat elevated. The rice had a rich yellow hue from spices and
had the consistency of an Italian risotto. The eggs were quails’ and
the grilled haddock was perched on top rather than finding itself
broken into petals and mixed with the rice. A more refined
presentation, and a delicious take on a classic British favourite.Other dishes at Indigo also warrant mentions. The Crab and Chilli Risotto is a flavourful preparation and well worth trying. A creamy texture with a subtle suspicion of chilli. Plenty of seafood and an attractive coral colour. If you are a lover of more substantial fare then consider the Fish Pie which was well received by guests on the adjoining table and was a substantial serving.
Desserts tend to be a treat.
Very few of us have the time to prepare a
sweet during the week. Sunday brunch at Indigo offers the ideal
opportunity to have a leisurely meal with a decadent finale. The
brownies here were popular; the Banana Split came highly recommended
and it was indeed the sort of pud that would make any diner feel like a
kid again. Soft bananas with a crunchy sugar crust, chocolate and
vanilla ice cream and fruit. Two spoons and a couple of cups of
espresso and we were replete, complete and ready for the week.Indigo at One Aldwich is an overlooked treasure. Grab a table on the balcony above the Lobby Bar. Enjoy the views from the magnificent dark wood-framed windows. Take a couple of hours to unwind and remember why Sundays were invented. Indigo does it well. Amazing value for money.
One Aldwych
1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4RH
Tel: 020 7300 0400
Fax: 020 7300 0401
Email: indigo@onealdwych.com
Visit One Aldwych here