A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
The very
name “Ballymaloe” sounds poetic and conjures visions of green and idyllic hills.
Not far from the truth according to Antony Worrall Thompson who says, “I’m often
asked which is my favourite cookery school. Without question Ballymaloe Cookery
School near Cork in Southern Ireland would be my choice... At Ballymaloe you
have everything, an exquisite property set in acres of wonderful organic gardens
surrounded by fabulous countryside... Idyllic is a word rarely used but in
Ballymaloe’s case it is the word that sums up what this cookery school is
about.”A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a lovely reflection of Darina Allen’s celebrated school. It’s a large-format volume with amazing photographs by Melanie Eclare, Michelle Garrett and Timmy Allen (hmm, another of the famous dynasty?). The overall impression is of comfort and calm. Probably just what we need in these times of crunching credit and creeping prices.
Darina is justifiably well regarded as not only a teacher but also an author. I have reviewed most of her books over these last weeks and they are all of a universally high standard but more importantly they are all a good read. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School will be appreciated by lovers of her friendly and warm-hearted style.
This particular book focuses on the use of fresh and seasonal produce. We might not all have access to a good market but we can all, at least, chose the best that the change of seasons has to offer. It makes sense to buy vegetables when they are plentiful and at a good (one hopes) price. Darina's book will give you an idea of what you should be looking for as the months go by.
The recipes are divided, as you would expect, by the four seasons. Those chapters each list Starters, Main Courses, Vegetables and Puddings. It’s nice to see those sweet things referred to as “puddings”. Sounds old-fashioned, cheering and comfy, although the puds here are trendy.
Steak and Oyster Pie is a classic and it’s good to see that combination of traditional and modern in the same collection. Thai Chicken, Galingale and Coriander Soup is a good example of the newer face of cooking. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School represents how both the Irish and British eat (or would like to eat) these days.
Darina's recipe for Christmas Semi-freddo with Raisins and Marrons Glacés is so good that it would be worth buying this book just for that. It’s one of those desserts that is simple to prepare, stunning to look at and delicious. A light change from the usual Christmas Pudding and the beauty of it is that you can make this ages in advance.
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a joy and another Allen family triumph!
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Author: Darina Allen
Published: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-709-0
Traditional Irish Cooking
I confess that the book was bigger than I had expected. I should know better, considering that I am half Irish by blood. Probably there aren’t many outside the Emerald Isle that know very much about Irish cooking, apart from it involving a lot of potatoes!
Traditional Irish Cooking has a wealth of recipes but also lots of information about, for instance, Irish cheeses, the history and impact of the potato on the people of Ireland, the story of the famine which changed not only Ireland but America and England.
This book is a great mix of traditional and classic Irish dishes as well as giving us a glimpse into the newer trends towards the more exotic. There are plenty of recipes to tempt both the vegetarian and the committed meat-eater. The sections cover baking, soups and stews, seafood, potatoes, dairy, meat of all kinds, vegetables and drinks.
There is a good selection of potato dishes, as you would expect, but they are much more interesting than I had imagined, for instance Farmer’s Potatoes with Bacon and Cream. It’s delicious and well up to the standard of a classic gratin. Champ has long been a favourite and has even been a hit with French friends! It’s a lovely combination of mashed potatoes, butter and spring onions.
Certainly I knew that there were the odd few bottles of whiskey about in Ireland, but it’s good to see it included in several recipes. Jamieson’s Cake is a rich fruit cake and the one I’ll be using instead of a traditional Christmas cake this year. Bruiden Tart is an apple and almond tart – the custard, laced with some Irish whiskey, is baked with the apple filling. I am very impressed by this one. It’s easy but it’s a bit different from the ordinary apple tart or pie. The individual tarts make a nice presentation with more of the custard served on the side. How about Gammon with Whiskey Sauce? One again it’s an easy recipe but different and delicious.
It’s not only the whiskey that the Irish are fond of. They save a little space for stout – who could leave out that most famous of exports? Tipsy Dublin Rarebit is the Irish version of the Welsh classic. There is also a Traditional Irish Rarebit that has the addition of eggs, Tabasco and paprika. That’s the one for me!
Traditional Irish Cooking
Author: Andy Gravette and Debbie Cook
Published by: Garnet Publishing Ltd.
Price: £14.95
ISBN: 978-1-85964-155-2
In Praise of Poteen
What exactly is Poteen or Poitín? If you are Irish then
you’ll already know. If you are American then you will recognise the same
beverage under the name of Moonshine. Yes, dear reader, it’s the intoxicating
illegal liquor of the Emerald Isle and has a history steeped in folkloric charm
and myth.In Praise of Poteen by John McGuffin is an entertaining read of the bitter-sweet variety. Its subject matter lends itself to comic interludes but also introduces us to the harsh reality of the Irish poor. Many dangers were encountered in not only the manufacture of the drink but also the consumption of the aforementioned hooch.
In 1854 a revenue officer claimed “the average Poitín maker can clear 3 shillings (15p) a gallon profit”. The officer also stated that this wasn’t as good as in 1818 when “deducting all their losses, expenses and risks, together with bribes paid to the revenue officers, the Poitín maker makes £1 for each day he works”. Nice to think that a cottage industry supported all members of the community!
It seems to have been a popular and profitable pastime and one that landlords were reluctant to stamp out. The reason for turning a blind eye had nothing to do with desire to allow tenants to throw the occasional party but had everything to do with the fact that the income from the drink was often the only method of making money enough to pay the landlord his rent.
The by-products of Poteen were put to good use. The first run was very strong and almost undrinkable, so was considered as a balm for cuts and sprains. The waste was fed to cattle and anyone with cows in peak condition was suspected of involvement with the illegal industry.
A rather dangerous by-product was ether, which was also used as a drink in Ulster. This was truly nasty stuff and difficult to consume without drinking a glass of water before, a glass of water after and holding one’s nose during the exercise. The period of intoxication only lasted about twenty minutes and didn’t leave a hangover so you could get drunk on ether a dozen times a day! That’s a “sobering” thought!
In Praise of Poteen is a fascinating read. Its style is rich and amusing and it is sure to be a classic. Generations of Poteen producers have gone but this book remains as an unsentimental reminder of a colourful element of Irish history.
In Praise of Poteen
Author: John McGuffin
Published by Appletree Press, Belfast
Price: £8.99
ISBN 0-86281-768-4