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Cucina Napoletana
This is a stunning volume of 100 or so recipes and a mix of colour photographs and evocative black and
white shots of the city and its people. Cucina Napoletana isn’t out to
impress you with recipes from restaurants with crisp white tablecloths,
although they are touched upon. Instead, this book gives you an
impression of gutsy flavours and of no-frills inhabitants of a town
that has had a “reputation” since Roman times.
Naples takes advantage of all the fine foods that Italy has to offer,
but in particular the produce from the region surrounding the city. Its
climate makes it ideal for growing tomatoes and chillies along with
potatoes and peppers, and it has the benefit of the abundance of the
sea. Meat dishes rely on pork and chicken rather than beef, which was
historically out of the reach of most of the population.
The author Arturo Iengo has lived and worked in Naples for more than 30
years. Although not a native of Naples he has a passion for the area
and its food. He presents dishes that are appropriate for both family
meals and smart entertaining, and dishes that are both delicious as
well as overflowing with healthful ingredients.
Naples is the home of Pizza – the thin-crust with toppings that
complement rather than swamp the base – cooked to perfection in a
wood-burning oven and consumed with a carafe of red wine and to the
sound of a Puccini opera. Well, you probably won’t have the
wood-burning oven but your pizza will still be better than any
shop-bought varieties... or even those delivered by the lad on a moped.
And you can always buy a CD of La Bohème. Arturo offers several
pizzas including the most celebrated Margherita invented by pizza chef
Raffaela Esposito in 1889, who named his creation in honour of Queen
Margherita. Pizza Capperi, Olive e Acciughi is pizza garnished with
capers, olives and anchovies. There is the ever-present mozzarella and
tomato to offset the salty tang of the other ingredients, to produce a
pizza that would be ideal with aperitifs.
Cucina Napoletana has numerous pasta dishes ranging from the cheap and
cheerful but truly delicious Farfalle with Tuna and Peas to Spaghetti
with Prawns, Squid and Clams. One of the quickest to prepare is
Linguine with Pancetta and Tomato Sauce. It’s a traditional Easter dish
in Naples although I am sure it will be a year-round favourite with
those that love pasta dressed with few ingredients and little fuss.
Sfogliatelle Ricce are semolina and ricotta pastries that originated in
the 1700s in the kitchens of the Croce di Lucca monastery. They were
prepared for guests but in 1818 Pasquale Pintauro, a baker in Naples,
baked the first ones commercially outside the walls of a religious
establishment. This is a recipe for the more confident cook but the
results will be worth the effort.
Cucina Napoletana is full of recipes that will tempt you, and
photographs by Hannah Mornement show the Neapolitan character off to
its quirky finest. “See Naples and die” is a phrase the origins of
which are lost in the mists of time. Sounds like more of a threat than
a promise, so consider “Eat Naples and live” as a more attractive
alternative. You could certainly live very nicely on these dishes.
Cucina Napoletana
Author: Arturo Iengo
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-84537-989-6
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