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Castle House Hotel, Hereford
I confess, this isn’t a part of the country I know well.
OK, it’s true, I am a city sort but I am increasingly charmed by
our
beautiful
towns and rolling hills. I have even bought a pair of
green wellies for kicking through leafy forests and dewy dells.
Hereford is a city, as it boasts a cathedral. A cathedral
has
stood
in Hereford since Saxon times. The building we see today is a
fine example of the mason’s craft, culminating in the twentieth-century
New Library Building which houses the celebrated Chained Library. The
oldest and most important book is the eighth-century Hereford Gospels.
It’s one of a couple of hundred medieval manuscripts which now occupy
two sections of the Chained Library, a truly unique and
thought-provoking area which takes one back to an era when books were
rare and libraries even rarer. I wonder if we are coming full circle
with that issue.
The world-famous Mappa Mundi is on display at the
cathedral. The Hereford Mappa Mundi is a map of the world, dating
from
around
1300 and is the largest medieval map known to still exist.
It is drawn on a single sheet of vellum (animal skin).
A must-see when you visit Hereford.
The Wye Valley countryside around Hereford is some of the loveliest in
Britain. It’s designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The
River Wye runs through the valley creating tranquil and picturesque
vistas. The landscape typifies Chocolate-box-top England with fields,
hedges and grazing sheep. Yes, it does still exist.
Castle House stands in a calm and classy corner of Hereford, but eight
or nine hundred years ago the site was a busy
crossroads in the old Saxon city, near to the ancient Hereford Castle.
Now
the
traffic is mostly children heading down Castle Street to
school. It’s a privately-owned townhouse hotel and rumoured to be most
luxurious in Hereford. That’s a lie. No, not the bit about it being the
best hotel in Hereford, but it is not one but two townhouses merged
together to make a single architectural stunner.
In the early 18th century, a local businessman built a pair of fine
Georgian villas in what was then the middle of the road. The two houses
looked directly down Castle Street towards the cathedral at the end.
The rear of the building was added in the second half of the 19th
century when the then-owner Frederick Boulton was granted permission to
remove the party wall to make one magnificent house. There is little
evidence of the conversion apart from the wide and imposing front door
and the striking staircase in the hall.
From the 1920s Castle House was a boarding house then in the1940s it
became a hotel for gentlefolk. It’s now been renovated with taste and
sympathy. This Grade II listed building is privately-owned by local
farmer David Watkins, whose produce features on the hotel menu and
whose daughter now works at the hotel. Original features remain, whilst
the hotel offers discerning guests high-end comfort in both public
rooms and private suites.
The suites here are sumptuous. Ours had high ceilings, tall windows
with a view towards the cathedral. The sitting area will likely be
larger than your lounge at home. The oval desk sported a decanter of
sherry but the guest need not worry that old-fashioned charm was
maintained at the expense of 21st century technology.
Every room has broadband access, TV
and music facilities. One can work and play.
The four-poster bed was a delight and the linen was turned down each
evening. The bathroom was well appointed with a selection of pampering
toiletries that would have one lingering in steamy bliss. My advice
would be to leave such soaking till after dinner or you might just miss
a culinary treat.
The Castle Restaurant is one of the finest in Herefordshire. The
kitchen might be small but chef Claire Nicholls presents food that has
visual impact as well as being delicious. Claire trained at Hereford
Technical College and then at the Birmingham College of
Food. She lived in Hong Kong for two years and fell in love with Asian
gastronomy, and that has had an influence on her choice of ingredients
and presentation, which is delicate and thoughtful. She is a local girl
but it’s her mum who noticed the vacancy at the hotel and thought that her
talented
daughter
would enjoy returning home. Claire has been with
Castle House for more than eight years and has worked as Head Chef for
three. The restaurant has twice been awarded 3 AA Rosettes and Claire
is one of the very few female head chefs in the UK to have achieved
that. She has a quiet manner, but is well able to handle the rigours of
a professional kitchen.
She takes pride in sourcing fresh ingredients from local producers and
it’s no surprise that one of those suppliers is the owner of the hotel,
who also owns Ballingham Farm. It’s only eight miles from Hereford and
has been in David’s family for 120 years. They have a 100-strong
pedigree Hereford herd, the meat from which is used in Claire's recipes
whenever it’s available.
My guest ordered the Warm Salad of Wood Pigeon, Caramelised Apples,
Quail Eggs and Black Pudding. These birds are a good introduction to
game. This pigeon was mild flavoured, moist and tender.
I had already perused the menu and decided on my main
course, so opted for a light starter of Warm Salad of Beetroot,
Lentils, Walnuts and Quail Eggs. A tapestry of texture and taste.
Pan-fried Seabass was my companion’s choice for main course. The fish
was perched atop a mound of Lime and Vanilla Mash which was a unique
and excellent accompaniment to the sweet fish. Pakc hoi
was
the
very Asian element here and the consumer of the above was a
contented diner.
I was bound to pick the Rib Eye of Herefordshire Beef. Whilst I can’t
swear that this cut came from David’s farm I should say that it was
succulent and full of bovine flavour. I am not a great meat eater but
it’s no surprise even to me that this is one of the most popular dishes
here. Several American guests ordered the same and all appreciated the
substantial plate. Yes, dear US visitors, we do have excellent food in
the UK. Please spread the word to the folks back home.
Save a little space for dessert. We both enjoyed Sticky Banana and Date
Pudding, Butterscotch Sauce, Roast
Bananas, Vanilla Ice. Don’t rush. Order a pudding wine or some coffee
and relax in candlelight and the gentle buzz of convivial conversation.
Our stay was too short. We will be tempted back in summer.
Perhaps we will sit by the old moat and watch the ducks, take a stroll
around the old town, but we will be sure to be back for lunch. No, this
isn’t a cheap hotel option but it is value for money. You get what you
pay for, and the memories are priceless.
Breakfast is served from 7am - 10am
Lunch from 12 noon - 2pm
Dinner from 7pm - 10pm
(9pm on Sundays and Bank Holidays)
Castle House Hotel
Castle Street,
Hereford, HR1 2NW
Phone: +44 (0) 1432 356321
Fax us on: +44 (0) 1432 365909
Email: info@castlehse.co.uk
Visit Castle House here
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