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Afternoon
Tea at Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
Afternoon tea is very much in vogue these days, so why
wouldn’t you have a traditional afternoon tea in London, the capital of
European tea-drinking? If you are going to the trouble of visiting
London then you want to enjoy afternoon tea at its best and that’s just
what Hyatt Regency The Churchill offers.
This striking hotel can be found just a couple of
minutes’ walk away from Oxford Street, one of London’s most
popular shopping thoroughfares and a magnet for those seeking therapy
of the retail sort. The Churchill has views over the gardens of Portman Square, the sight of
which sweeps one back to a gentler age when this open space echoed to
the sound of the clip-clopping of horses rather than the roar of
Mercedes horse power. It’s not only the hotel in general with those
stunning views: the Montagu restaurant in particular boasts windows to
this quintessentially London scene. It is named after socialite
Elizabeth Montagu and her husband Edward, grandson to the first Earl of
Sandwich, whose home occupied part of this site. Black cabs, tourists,
office workers now create a moving foreground to the lush vegetation.
The Montagu seats up to 130 guests in contemporary but stylish comfort.
Its dark wood, crisp linen, muted taupe walls are bathed in light from
huge chandeliers and the aforementioned windows. It contrives to be
both traditional and modern and it works. Yes, indeed there are classic
elements to this restaurant but they are marvellously contrasted with a
bar sporting a bank of horizontal wine bottles (practical but very
chic), and the most open of open kitchens.
We have all seen them, those open kitchens. They are
often no more than a slit in the restaurant wall and showing nothing more of the chefs than their
white-clad shoulders and perhaps a daringly coloured bandana or two.
The Montagu kitchen, however, is part of the restaurant. One can watch
the theatre of food preparation by staff who, I guess, must be
well-behaved at all times. Perhaps that’s the reason why such an
arrangement would never do for some of Britain’s more “animated”
celebrity chefs.
The Chef’s Table gives a few visitors the opportunity to take an even
closer look at proceedings. Once again The Montagu has gone the extra
mile, this time in order to give a close but civilised view of chefs in
action. The concept of eating at the chef’s table has been around for a
while. Other restaurants might have a cramped table for two between the
dishwasher and the swinging kitchen door, with the diners’ eye-level
being waist-high to the chef, allowing a view of just a profile of a
stock pot and lots of blue flames. Here the guests are seated at a
raised island with vistas of the whole kitchen. The Chef’s Table seats
two to nine people on high stools and is available for lunch or dinner
during the week. It costs £75.00 per person for five courses
including matched wines, or £95.00 for eight courses including
matched wines.
It was springtime in London. Cold and wet and I was looking forward to
the comfort of an open fire (yes, dear reader, there is such a thing to
hand) and an afternoon tea with all the elegance and charm that notion
conjures. As a member of the Tea Council’s prestigious ‘Tea Guild',
Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill sounded like an ideal spot for a
cuppa and some sweet and savoury delights. I was not disappointed –
they presented the most iconic and relaxing of afternoon teas.
Even from a distance The Montagu Afternoon Tea looks
like the real thing. Its elegant three-tiered stand carried a selection
of those very British finger sandwiches with no sign of a crust. The
choice is different every day but be assured they will be delicious and
filled with a variety of cheeses, meats, smoked salmon and probably
some cucumber on a mix of white, brown and flavoured breads. These are
surprisingly substantial but one can feel refined if one cuts a corner
and nibbles. This isn’t a race. Eat slowly and unwind, but save some
room for what’s to follow.
After the sandwiches I was drawn to the next tier up. The one piled
with still-warm fruit and plain scones. Two per person was a generous
helping and these were served with the usual accompaniments of lashings
of strawberry jam and clotted cream. It might be predictable but it’s
been that way for generations for no other reason than that it’s just
right.
The top tier held my attention and the cakes. This was a tempting and
attractive spread of little fancies as well as some fresh strawberries
to make one feel noble. A miniature fruit tart, glossy and dark Opera
cake, pink and frilly iced cupcake, Viennese shortbread and some
chocolate macaroons were all irresistible. The Montagu Afternoon Tea is
served with a selection of teas including Sapphire Earl Grey,
Darjeeling 2nd Flush, Organic Bohea Lapsang, Organic Silver Needle and
Hand-rolled Jasmine Pearls. I chose the Silver Needle for its light
fresh flavour which was a foil for the cream and sugar I had already
consumed in the guise of dessert. It was one of those occasions when a
cup of coffee just would not do. American cousins take note. For an
extra treat, one might order a glass of Pol Roger Champagne which is
said to have been Winston Churchill’s favourite. This particular
Afternoon Tea is therefore called the Churchill, in his honour.
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill is a setting for a memorable and
fine traditional afternoon tea. The Montagu restaurant is a calm oasis
with welcoming staff and a refuge from all things hectic. Ask for a
table overlooking the greenery of one of London’s most stylish squares,
and while away a couple of unhurried hours. It’s accessible 5-star
luxury.
Afternoon Tea is served every day between 3.00pm and 6.00pm. The
Montagu Afternoon Tea is available at £21.50 per person and The
Churchill Afternoon Tea with a glass of Pol Roger Champagne is
£27.50 per person.
For reservations please call 020 7299 2037 or email:
montagu.hrlondon@hyatt.com.
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill
30 Portman Square, London W1H 7BH, UK
Phone:+44 20 7486 5800
Fax:+44 20 7486 1255
Email:london.churchill@hyatt.com
Visit The Churchill here
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