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Mostly
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A Month in Marrakesh – A food journey to the heart of Morocco
It’s obvious that those visiting my site love food. Mostly
Food Journal gives a clue with its name that the bias will be in the
direction of meals, recipes and ingredients; but the ‘Mostly’ opens the
door to other possibilities, and it’s travel that is standing on that
literary threshold.
People who love to travel also tend to enjoy food. Folks who have a
passion for food will want to see exotic dishes made in situ, and will
seek out spice markets just to drink in the perfume and vibrancy. A
Month in Marrakesh – A food journey to the heart of Morocco offers
everything visitors to my site would crave – recipes and roaming.
I knew I would be impressed by this volume before I even opened the
cover: terracotta and earthy colours and subtle design. Some tempting
shots of food and a very ethnic water-seller decorated the back, and
the inside pages offered me hours of enthralling page-turning.
It’s a dreamy book. That is to say that it leads one to dream of a trip
to Marrakesh but also to dream of making those recipes. OK, so that’s
not quite so much a dream as an exercise in meal planning and
grocery-list penning. But you get the picture.
I am a lover of the traditional British fried breakfast. I enjoy it for
the very fact that it’s traditional, but when I travel I want to
indulge in a breakfast that is truly of that region. It’s my favourite
meal of the day. It sets me off on the right gastronomic foot when I am
away from home. Food is mostly the reason I am visiting any particular
country, and there is nothing more disappointing than being presented
with the “continental buffet” when one just wants a spread of something
indigenous. I am so pleased that the author Andy Harris has a chapter
on breakfast.
Beghrir with Honey is the perfect light summer breakfast – nothing
spicy to offend the timid early-morning palate. Pancakes with the
distinctive holes are a popular start to the day. Those delicate
craters are just waiting to be drizzled with honey and melted butter.
Very sweet and a perfect foil for some fresh seasonal fruit and some
hot tea.
Briks are the North African equivalent of Indian samosas or a Cornish
Cornish Pasty. They are made with strikingly thin Warkha pastry that is
ubiquitous in French supermarkets. Seek out your nearest Middle Eastern
deli for a packet, or use filo pastry.
These savouries can have almost anything as a filling. Andy offers
recipes for a selection of the more common flavours including the
celebrated Tuna and Egg Brik which is also a staple in Tunisia. A more
substantial alternative is Chicken and Tomato Brik with the typical
Moroccan spices – cumin, ginger and cinnamon. These pastries are what
you will likely seek out for a light lunch after haunting the food
markets all morning.
A traveller cannot live by briks alone and neither can the home chef.
You’ll want to cook the more substantial dishes here and equally
important, you will want to share the fruits of your labours with
friends and family. Dinner in Morocco is a convivial affair and Chicken
Mefenned with Parsley Omelettes will turn any gathering into a
gastronomic event. The chicken is cooked with some of the
aforementioned spices and then served with a pile of omelettes on top,
like a droopy bonnet. Diners tear off pieces of meat and wrap them in a
little omelette and then dip the bundle into the reduced sauce in which
the chicken was originally cooked. A dish ideal for those who want a
taste of exotica but are fearful of heating spices. Moroccan food is
aromatic for the most part rather than fiery.
A Month in Marrakesh – A food journey to the heart of Morocco is a
must-have for any food traveller or even the armchair fantasist. The
photography by the great David Loftus never disappoints, and he has
worked his magic again here. I congratulate Andy Harris for presenting
a delectable cookbook and guide to the food capital of Morocco.
Cookbook review: A Month in Marrakesh – A food journey to the heart of
Morocco
Author: Andy Harris
Published by: Hardie Grant
Price: £20.00
ISBN: 978-1-74066-961-0
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