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Cookbook review: 100 Fish and Seafood Recipes

Yes, I do like Rick Stein. OK, it’s easy to take him for granted when one sees his programmes so often on TV. I confess to being almost word-perfect chanting along with Rick as he plies the waves (small ones) of the Canal du Midi or chats with a waitress in some far-flung restaurant. It’s not Rick’s fault that we might have ‘Stein overdose’, and his food is what's kept his profile so high, after all.

This compact volume is part of a series from My Kitchen Table (they have a supporting web site at http://www.mykitchentable.co.uk). The format is just right for the novice cook or for those more practised who just want to expand their recipe repertoire: a recipe on one page and a picture on the opposite one.  100 Fish and Seafood Recipes is an eclectic mix of dishes from around the world. India, Sri Lanka, Europe and Australia all offer seafood to tempt you. Mild, natural, fresh flavours and exotic and spicy sauces vie for your attention here.

I grew up in an era when the fishmonger’s slab was always full, but with only a couple of varieties of fish. Those wanting white fish might have cod and if you wanted something bright enough to read a book by then haddock could illuminate your shopping basket. Herring were popular in those days and it’s good to see them being noticed again. Tiny shrimps might be for Sunday tea along with winkles. There’s quite a bit more on offer these days, and this book will help you make the best of your purchases.

We make some of the best savoury pies and tarts here in Britain and it’s good to see them represented in this collection. Haddock and Cornish Yarg Pie uses un-smoked fish and a mild cheddar-like cheese for flavour. This version has a little chopped smoky bacon for extra savour but the pie would be just as good without it if one had non-meat eaters to feed. The delicious and creamy filling is topped by a potato pastry crust. Not difficult to make and worth the effort. One could always use ready-made puff pastry for speed. It’s the good stuff under the crust that will make this a regular family favourite.

Mackerel is a healthy oily fish and Rick presents Devilled Mackerel with Mint and Tomato Salad. It takes advantage of all those condiments and spices that you are bound to have lingering at the back of your larder: English mustard (don’t substitute French or American for this recipe), cayenne pepper (now you have a use for it), paprika for colour without heat, and coriander for a distinctive exotic note. The marinade will work well on sardines and herring as well. Grill or throw on the BBQ – but be warned: they tend to stick.

Seafood Lasagne is perhaps my favourite dish here. This recipe feeds 8 and the pasta helps to stretch the costly seafood. It’s quicker and easier to make than an authentic Italian ragout lasagne and it has that touch of class that will make it a smart dinner party staple. Various elements of this recipe can be made in advance so it’s ideal for those occasions when one has little time but one still wants to impress.

100 Fish and Seafood Recipes has delightful dishes, for those wanting to use the most economic of seafood as well as for others who want to push the metaphoric boat out. We should all eat more fish. We know it’s good for us but we need inspiration. Rick Stein inspires at a very reasonable price.

100 Fish and Seafood Recipes
Author: Rick Stein
Published by: Random House
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-1-84-990158-1